Easiest way to get a bed of leads ?

[petemoore]

  What are suitable materials to use for this ?
  Similar to an FWR with no diodes, four or more leads as needed to install a circuit solidly.
  Similar to old construction with the wiggly lug-rows on phelonic rails, but rigid lead-posts.
  Having dwiddled with the "under-board-touchie-sparkies" enough to want a reliable solid blob of insulator underneath, and a big, solid mount-hole right in the center of insulator where it'd surely make it easier to cajole less precisely an, "addend-end-um-plan" circuit, to be wrestled into a tight nest.
  1 center screw mounting an insulated, flat bottom [concave'd be fine] blob would be easy to mark, drill, grab, guide, then fix in place, it's the second screw which requires greatly increased presicion.
  A pressure cooker I'm working in, the round walls require much more math for precision than a flat substrate.

[JKowalski]

??

Maybe I'm just to tired, but I have no idea what you are asking  

[Dan N]

I'm having an Eric Idle in the "Travel Agency" sketch at the Hollywood Bowl flashback.

[head_spaz]

Maybe I'm just to tired, but I have no idea what you are asking.

I thought it was just me.
16226 posts... and I've never understood a single one.
Shorthand Bocci maybe?

[Paul Marossy]

 

[oldschoolanalog]

16226 posts... and I've never understood a single one.

That's a shame. Pete's put some real good info out there. He's been at it since '03. You just have to get used to his style. There are times, I will respectfully admit, that you need your "petemoore to English" dictionary.

OK, "bed of leads" aside.

A pressure cooker I'm working in, the round walls require much more math for precision than a flat substrate.

Taken literally, something is being built into a cooking appliance (pressure cooker amp?) and the round walls present a challenge where board mounting is concerned. A secure, short proof method is being looked for.
If this is the case; how big a circuit board, and how much/little space (diameter & depth of "enclosure").

Unless, of course....

[petemoore]

  I would just drive a bunch of copper shank nails into a board, but they bend too easy.
 I thought about twisting a 2'' length of copper so it stands up on it's own like a chess bishop, make about 20 of them, put them in a tray, pour in the epoxy.
 I can get an insulated tray but what kind or if all expoxies are non conductive remains to figure out.
 So you have uncle Fester's bed of nails, copper nails, and you get your big  new HV caps out, connect them then lay down on it some tube mojo.
 As an alternative to turret board...
 Or if there were FWR type products with 4 independant/insulated leads sticking out of an insulated body with a screw hole in the middle, that would be preferred for installing components compared to the standoff/lugs, not sure if that's the right name, a row of lugs going down an insulator strip.
  Something solid besides turret board to build custom topology circuits on.

[oldschoolanalog]

  I would just drive a bunch of copper shank nails into a board, but they bend too easy.

How about something like this:
http://gatelatchusa.com/824505-small_brass_screw_eye.html
Instead of uncle Fester's bed of nails.
Uncle Pete's "bed of eyes".

[Paul Marossy]

Sounds like you want to make a breadboard. That's how they were originally made, a board with nails in it. 

Or you could make a variant of that using terminal strips. http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103233

[petemoore]

Or you could make a variant of that using terminal strips.
  Perfect example...of what I'm talking about Paul.
  I've used those.
  After having worked with them, I desired something more 'hybrid', they look and are like something you'd cut 'n drill together in a pinch, at home
  ...being large, wide, multi faceted item, makes them too wobbly and demanding of real estate...I'm they'll work...if you've got extra room 'n stuff, they just seem kind of 'bouncy' looking compared to what I'm not referring to, but suggesting instead.
  I mean something more like a diode FWR bridge block [square block-base with some insulated leads sticking up.

[modsquad]

OMG...can we get someone to translate...I still have no clue what's going on.  Or maybe I shouldn't because I'm not interested in the topic.

[Paul Marossy]

Here's an example of what the term "breadboard" used to mean with regard to it being something for electronics:



Literally something like a wood breadboard onto which circuits were built for testing, prototyping, etc. 

[frank_p]

A simple way of doing it is perhaps using some decoration brass nails (I don't have the diameters on hand but...).  They fit really tightly in perfboard holes.  Just hammer them in with a small hammer.  I wanted to glue them by the underside by clipping the tip of the nail and putting a drop of epoxy but glue is not really necessary because it's quite rugged only with the tight fit.

You could do some blocks or strips like this and maybe use more perfboard stacked and glued together; or even try to use the fiberglass variety for more solidity.

Here is an example of a simple npn rangemaster:



Soldering components leads to brass nails work like a charm.  I like this but I must admit it's not very space-reducing-effectve such as other methods.  The good thing is that you see all the connections without having to flip the board.

It's just a variation of the old style wood breadboard... but not as  thick.  You can also clip off the heads of the nails after soldering is done to make it fit in a box.

[Nasse]

I would drill a tight pilot hole for each nail, to prevent wood whatever cracking

[robmdall]

Can you take Franks example, except put the nails in through the bottom of Pad-Per_hole and solder the head to the board?

[Paul Marossy]

A simple way of doing it is perhaps using some decoration brass nails (I don't have the diameters on hand but...).  They fit really tightly in perfboard holes.  Just hammer them in with a small hammer.  I wanted to glue them by the underside by clipping the tip of the nail and putting a drop of epoxy but glue is not really necessary because it's quite rugged only with the tight fit.

You could do some blocks or strips like this and maybe use more perfboard stacked and glued together; or even try to use the fiberglass variety for more solidity.

Here is an example of a simple npn rangemaster:



Soldering components leads to brass nails work like a charm.  I like this but I must admit it's not very space-reducing-effectve such as other methods.  The good thing is that you see all the connections without having to flip the board.

It's just a variation of the old style wood breadboard... but not as  thick.  You can also clip off the heads of the nails after soldering is done to make it fit in a box.

Yeah, force fit of the nails into some perfboard ought to be pretty sturdy. It's also nice to be able to see all of your connections on the board, even if if does take up more space. 

[petemoore]

Soldering components leads to brass nails work like a charm.
Sure, if you're good, use something like supported countertop, work the circuit over, JB weld the bases of the brass fittings to the sanded surface, predrill and toothpick a touch of G-Glue before nailing.
  I like this but I must admit it's not very space-reducing-effectve such as other methods.
  Yes but wasted space where something like a Supply>pre>amp in a tidy small unit won't fit makes more trips and cables needed, instead of cramping all that into tight yet still large box, power supply and amps can be 3 conductors and 2 grounded shields away from each other, close but not require say the normal 18'' x 6'' x  ?'' platform.
  Smaller boxes also allows me to better separate compontents that might not get along, someting that is common among brass nail type constructions, which IMO are better left with a more complex than absolutely necessary grounding scheme and roomy constructions.
  Considering the brass nails cautiously, preferring the FWR with diodes removed.
  Maybe there's a way to disconnect FWR diodes without opening the case..lol.
  Four leads sticking out of a block of indestructo-stuff that is also happening to be excellent insulator, and one with a hole right through the middle of it...very tempting for the dude who could use say 3 or four insulated component mounting devices, thick leads which can be easily and neatly used to secure components firmly in place.

[petemoore]

  As you can see [or not] and understand when it's pointed out [or not, choose to not read if you choose to] in the design shown here:
  http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103233
  The common alternative has a skinny thing in the middle which is expected to compete with the leverage at either end.
  Bend one thing and the whole rail wants to move.
  The better ones use 2 screws, which is getting 2 screwey for me, when:
  You can take only 1 fastener [such as a screw] and put it between 2 or more feet [no drilling or installation or assembly required for the feet] and pin the thing down to the feet, this holds the shAnt come loose, ever, if your good at self tapping screws and epoxy. out of it. These fastenerscrews aren't cheep or free, with 1 fastener into a block, drilling is much easier, if you understand what the man means, put the hole where the drillbit wants it to be, as long as it's going through the hole in the center of the four lug mount block [which looks like an FWR].
  As soon as you go 2 holes according to some template or layout or whatever, you have to get your template or layout or whatever made, then hope your drill bit don't wanna wander...then the bit breaks, then the jubberish turns into hostility.