HELP! Orange Sunshine Fuzz!

Started by AndyJelly, March 29, 2010, 03:33:59 PM

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AndyJelly

Hi. I'm new to making pedals, and me and my friend have an idea for a summer project, to make an Orange Sunshine Fuzz pedal. We can both pick things up really easily and quickly and have decided to make this pedal beacuse it will be a bit of a challenge and also we will be getting a quality product at the end of it (hopefully :P), we have found a local supplier for everything from the resistors and capacitirs, to the metal casing for the outside, and its all looking good so far. Now i have been looking around the internet and have found the layout:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/pedals/orange.jpg
I also found a drawing of a layout that looks like its for a perfboard, i dont know if its of any use:
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/DRAGONFLY-LAYOUTS_0/album18/album151/ORANGE_SUNSHINE_FUZZ_PERFBOARD_001.gif.html

Now the trouble is we arnt going to make our own PCB (long story), so am i right in saying that the only other way to do this without making our own PCB, is to use a RTS PCB (Ready to solder PCB)?

If i was to use a RTS PCB, what would i do? because there isnt one specially for an Orange Sunshine Fuzz, (i heard that someone made the pedal using a Fuzz Face RTS PCB). I found one here:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/component/page,shop.product_details/flypage,shop.flypage/product_id,56/category_id,28/option,com_virtuemart/Itemid,45/
So could someone please help me out and just put me in the right direction for what to do?
Thanks a lot in advance :)

rousejeremy

I'm pretty sure the Orange Sunshine is just a Silicon Fuzz Face without pots
Consistency is a worthy adversary

www.jeremyrouse.weebly.com

AndyJelly

Aw ok :), so that means i could just buy a Silicon Fuzz Face RTS PCB and just make the Orange Sunshine circuit over the top just leaving out the pots......would that work?

rousejeremy

You could. Compare schematics though. The resistor values are different.
Put a 1k resistor from the emitter of Q2 to ground instead of a "gain" or "fuzz" knob.

The dragonfly vero will work fine, you should give it a try.
Consistency is a worthy adversary

www.jeremyrouse.weebly.com

jrod

Hello and welcome!

First I would suggest that you breadboard this circuit and see what you think of it before you commit to building the Orange Sunshine. If you are not familiar with breadboarding, here is a link to should help you http://www.beavisaudio.com/bboard/projects/ Check out the Fuzz Face project. You can substitute the parts values to get close to the orange sunshine.

Here is another great tutorial for breadboarding from Small Bear Electronics: http://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/Breadboarding/Breadboard.htm Again, this is for the Fuzz Face circuit, which is pretty much the same the as the Orange Sunshine.

If you want to just go ahead and build it, here is a link to a veroboard style layout that should be good: http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/DRAGONFLY-LAYOUTS_0/album18/album144/ORANGE+SUNSHINE+FUZZ+VERO.GIF.html

By the way, according to analogguru, the Orange Sunshine is a 1:1 clone of the Vox V816 Distortion Booster. In fact, I believe all the Vintage Technology pedals are clones of Vox pedals.

Have fun!

GibsonGM

...the other way, which is how I started and continue to build pedals, is to breadboard it like they said, make sure you like the sound.

Then, you can just get a general-purpose board that will fit your enclosure.  You 'lay out' the parts on it...starting with the transistors, say.  Then work you way down each circuit leg, making a sensible pathway towards wherever the parts go (like, if a resistor goes to +9V, you connect 1 end to the transistor under the board, and the other goes to a 'bus bar' that is connected to the battery + terminal...).   
It's a good way to learn to solder, and for simple circuits like this it is inexpensive, durable, and takes less time. 

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MXR Dist +, TS9/808, Easyvibe, Big Muff Pi, Blues Breaker, Guv'nor.  MOSFace, MOS Boost,  BJT boosts - LPB-2, buffers, Phuncgnosis, FF, Orange Sunshine & others, Bazz Fuss, Tonemender, Little Gem, Orange Squeezer, Ruby Tuby, filters, octaves, trems...

AndyJelly

Thanks a bunch for the comments guys :)

Sorry for the stupid question, but veroboard is just like perfoard isn't it?
And perfboard is just for prototype boards am i right?
So does that mean that i wouldnt be able to make a proper pedal with veroboard, just a prototype like with breadboard? Or can i still make a pedal to put in a case and use properly, using veroboard?
Sorry again for the stupid question... haha

jkokura

Quote from: AndyJelly on March 30, 2010, 12:43:32 PM
Thanks a bunch for the comments guys :)

Sorry for the stupid question, but veroboard is just like perfoard isn't it?
And perfboard is just for prototype boards am i right?
So does that mean that i wouldnt be able to make a proper pedal with veroboard, just a prototype like with breadboard? Or can i still make a pedal to put in a case and use properly, using veroboard?
Sorry again for the stupid question... haha

Veroboard and perfboard are not the same.

Perfboard is not just for prototype boards, it can be used with about any project you wish. I recommend you go find Rick's (AKA Frequency Central) posts to see what working on perfboard looks like. That guy's work is unbelievable.

You would be able to make a proper pedal with veroboard. Some people around here use it often. It will be fairly easy to get into a case.

There are 4 different materials most of us mount our parts to:

Perfboard is a board with lots of little holes in it. You can get it double sided, but the single side stuff has copper that surrounds each hole, but doesn't connect to other holes. This stuff is great for simple and small circuits. With perf, you have to do a lot of work to connect all the parts, mostly by bending the leads of the parts so that they connect to the next part in the circuit and then soldering them together.

Veroboard is similar to perf, except that one side will have much more copper on it. The holes will be connected by copper in strips, so that anything on that strip will be connected. It's a little bit different than perfboard, and often gets used for bigger circuits because it means you can connect parts without a lot of extra bending and soldering of the leads for parts. With Vero, you must make some of the connections between parts, but most of the work goes into cutting the strips to stop the signal or installing jumpers to connect the strips.

Etched/Home made PCB's are made specifically for one project. Often people will create their own PCB's. These are often very easy to work with, and generally one would populate this board very quickly. The copper traces make all the right connections for you, all you have to do is install the parts, solder them in properly. There's little to no work involved in connecting the parts.

Professional PCB's are often green in colour, and these are what you get in kits (BYOC, GGG) or from vendors (GGG, Tonepad). Some guys get them made and sell them here (check the for sale area). These PCB's have holes and sometimes a silkscreen that tells you where all the parts go. All the connections between the parts are made for you, and they are hidden, unlike the etched/home made PCB's. These are very easy to work with, and there is no work needed to connect parts.

I like using the last and the first the best. Truthfully, i have not worked with Vero at all, so I don't know if I'd like it or not. I much prefer a pro PCB over the etched kind, but the etched kind can be easily used also.

Hope that helps.

Jacob

AndyJelly

Thanks a lot Jacob :), that really helped me understand the whole situation better, cheers :).

Right I think I know what to do now.

First I'll make the circuit on a breadboard, and see if it works and if I like the sound etc
Then I'll make it on Perfboard or Veroboard using the layouts you guys gave me and put the whole thing together :)

thanks everyone for all the help, i really appreciate it :)