Wiring two effects in one box true bypass

[good air]

Hey, if anyone has some info on this it'd be appreciated.  I'm working on pedal with 2 circuit boards inside one box.  I found this layout on general guitar gadgets http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/content/view/33/27/ (bottom of the page) and wired my pedal like it but i'm not getting any sound whether its on or off.  Any advice based on that layout?  The circuits are 2 devi ever fuzzes - torns peaker and soda meiser.  I have one led lighting up if that makes any difference.  Thanks in advance.

[jkokura]

If it's not working in either bypass or engaged, it's very likely your wiring has a problem.

Post some pics if you can, but the major suggestion I have for you is to take some time away from the pedal, then go back to it and calmly follow the path of the signal. If you understand how your switch works, and can follow the path, you'll find the problem. Sometimes you can check and check and think it's right, but if it doesn't work, then something has to be wrong. Find it and you'll be on your way.

Jacob

[petemoore]

  A thread above yours tells all about it:
  DEBUGGING - What to do when it doesn't work
  3pDT's :
  T  P  T
  T  P  T
  T  P  T
   Turn the whole switch 1/4 rotation and it looks like this:
  T  T  T
  P  P  P
  T  T  T
  A DMM can serve as prober for connectivities [follow the signal path, power supply...anything that's supposed to connect], and non-connections using the 'beep' mode diode checker setting, touch the leads=hear beep, I always check for non-connection between power supply + and - before powering. 
  Also it can measure the voltages on active component pins, this is a quick problem finder [if and when it finds it], then a solution can usually quickly be found, set to the proper DCV ranges.
  Resistances also, circuit can very rarely throw an R reading off, by providing a second current path.
  The audio probe should hear 1:1 unity between a buffer input and output [B and E of transistor], or on the transistor wired for gain, it'll hear a boosted version of it's input [base] at it's output [collector].
  Start with a cable input, test between jack tip and it's switch lugs [should be a pole and a throw [around the corner], see if it can be made to pass through the right hand center lug of the left shown switch to the right switch, there is of course a 1/2 chance that you'll have to operate the switch once.
  The second switch is a repeat of the first.
  You don't need power for true bypass tests. If no signal [DMM or Probe can check this, DMM's easier] is able to bypass the first switch [as I described], and second switch then the switches are oriented correctly.
  The top row of each switch is a row of separate throws.
  The middle row of each switch is separate poles.
  The bottom row of the switch is separate throws.
  Each "Column' is a:
  T
  P
  T
  Connect the DMM beep mode to a pole and throw of 1 column, hit the switch, if no beep then invert the test:
  like the switch got turned 1/4 turn.
  Before solder fills the lug holes, a line of sight can be seen through 3 eyelets in a column like gun peephole sights, this is 1 T/P/T of the three separate switches.
  Easy to miss, hard to describe, hope this helps.

[MikeH]

Check to make sure you didn't mix up the tip and sleeve on your jacks too.  I do that one all the time it seems. 

[good air]

Thanks for all of the good advice.  I traced the signal, looks like everythings where its supposed to be.  I could take a picture but the box is pretty cluttered and the wiring is kinda hidden between switches.   I added mods to it.. its all board mods - lifting caps, resistors, flipping transistors, etc but theres like 7 switches and 6 pots in there.  All of the inputs/outputs/grounds/9v are not changed.

Tips, ring and sleeves on the jack are alright.  I mixed those up already and caught it early in the build.  Good to know it happens to others, haha.

Went to radioshack to get a multimeter but they're ripoffs so I'm going to order one online.  Read the explanation about the poles and throws 3 times and its a good way to explain it.  The multimeter won't get here for a few days.

S still in the same boat.  Only thing I can think of is to rewire the 3pdt switches and the battery cause maybe its a cold point or find another wiring layout for this.  Its weird because the led on the input side doesn't light up and the led on the output side lights up when dc power is plugged in and no jacks plugged in.  Isn't it not supposed to light up unless theres a jack plugged in?

Here's the layouts along with the GGG 2 in 1 wiring.
Output side

Input side


I did the switches like the diagram on GGG, but instead of running the input and output wires to the pcb, i ran them to the pots like in devi's layout.  The pedals right in front of me now, the middle lug of the switch for pcb input on GGG is going to the middle lug of the texture/intensity pots from devi and the pcb ins on the pots are going to the inputs of the boards.

Really considering spending the extra $20 to get that multimeter today..

[petemoore]

  Your powers of debugging will exhibit a sharp increase in effectiveness as you begin applying a DMM.

[good air]

Alright i bought the dmm and made an audio probe.

I rewired the switch and now have a bypass signal but no led and no sound when the effect is on.

After checking all the connections and measuring the power supply with the voltmeter, its reading 20 at the dc jack, led and 9v pad on the pcb but getting no readings on the 3pdt switch, just steady 0's at the led pole and everywhere else.  Safe to say my switch is bad or is it something else because I'm getting bypassed signal?

Also with the audio probe, I'm getting a sound only at the input of the board.  I get some crazy sounds on the actual components but no guitar signal.

Suggestions?

edit- led works, might have found the problem.

[jkokura]

What was the problem? I wanted to note that you need to have the LED positive connected to power, and the negative connected to the switch. When you want the LED active, the negative pole of the LED needs to connect to ground. That way it will light up.

Is there signal when you engage and LED lights up?

Jacob

[good air]

That was the problem with the led.. positive was connected to ground etc.  Switched them and it works fine so that leads me to believe the 3pdt is fine too.  I get a clean signal when the switch/led is on because on the texture pot that has 2 inputs, i had both of them soldered into the pcb.. i guess it didnt like that, so i took out input 1 and left input 3 now i get clean signal but still no fuzz.

Going to move onto the transistors now because I have 2 of them wired onto a dpdt switch to reverse the polarity.. this is a mod that turns the torn's peaker into a neverdrive.  Its possible i made a dumb mistake when i braided the wires and put them in the wrong pads.

edit - Nope, transistors are wired right.  DMM readings match on the transistors and the pads that the wires are going into from the dpdt's. 

[good air]

Turned out to be a power problem.  Used a new dc jack and rewired and we're good.  Thanks for the input.  This threads done.