Etching pcb advice

Started by Ned Flanger, April 23, 2010, 06:55:16 PM

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Ned Flanger

I have been successful at etching pcb's using the laser printer and photo paper method.  However, After I iron on the pattern and remove the paper there still remains a  clear, plasticy film is still on the board.  It is a very tedious task to make sure it is all scraped off.  Is this just me or is this just the nature of the beast?  Am I heating too long?  Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.

Thanks,

chicago_mike

I was never happy with ironing on transfers.  I switched to rpinting on clear transparency sheets. and then use a uv sensitized pcb. This way I can reuse the transparency. :)

euronymous0001

Quote from: Ned Flanger on April 23, 2010, 06:55:16 PM
I have been successful at etching pcb's using the laser printer and photo paper method.  However, After I iron on the pattern and remove the paper there still remains a  clear, plasticy film is still on the board.  It is a very tedious task to make sure it is all scraped off.  Is this just me or is this just the nature of the beast?  Am I heating too long?  Any tips or tricks would be appreciated.

Thanks,

i just the green scrubbing pad used in dishwashing  :icon_biggrin:
just dont overdo it

Brymus

I haven't used photo paper yet.
I use glossy paper from a magazine,usually Playboy...
Then at max heat I iron for 100 seconds >
I use a piece of fresh clean paper between the iron and transfer/no folds or wrinkles !
I only use magazine/gloss paper with text or blank/white for the transfer,no color it tends to bleed through the gloss and stick to the copper...
I dont heat the copper so my transfer wont stick and I can center it better.
from 0-20/30 seconds I dont move the iron I just leave it with minimal pressure this is to seat the tranfer so it doesnt move.
from 30-90 seconds I move the iron around with a small/medium amount of pressure just a little more than the weight of the iron.
from 90-100 seconds I make sure I get the edges good applying more pressure and work around all the edges a couple of times.
If its a larger board maybe go a little longer...
If the copper is changing color or the transfer is distorting use less time/heat/pressure
Then I soak in warmish water for 30 minutes to an hour or more and it rubs right off leaving all the toner in place.
It took a little trial and error but doing it this way tends to work every time for me now.
Hope that helps,Bryan
I'm no EE or even a tech,just a monkey with a soldering iron that can read,and follow instructions. ;D
My now defunct band http://www.facebook.com/TheZedLeppelinExperience

Ned Flanger

Eureka!  Believe it or not I taped a piece of wax paper to a normal sheet of paper.  Printed directly to the wax paper.  Ironed it and it worked perfectly.  I can't believe it was that easy.

nosamiam

You ran wax paper through a laser printer??? You are waaay braver than I am.

caspercody

Wax paper through a copier, please explain in more detail on this? Just normal cooking wax paper? How did you tape it on? I am sure it is easy, but my only access to a laser printer is at work. I do not want to try to explain why the copier is jammed if I do this wrong.

Thanks
Rob

Brymus

Yeah I would be worried about the wax paper messing up the drum.
When I asked about printing to magazine paper at Staples they said they had a policy of no running clay paper through their copiers/printers as they have had problems with it in other stores.
I also noticed if the my printer prints to my tape it will put out little pieces of it later so it obviously will stick to the drum.
Wax paper is meant to go in the oven so maybe this is a good new method.
Anyone else brave enough to try at home?
I'm no EE or even a tech,just a monkey with a soldering iron that can read,and follow instructions. ;D
My now defunct band http://www.facebook.com/TheZedLeppelinExperience

Ned Flanger

I just used regular scotch tape to tape the standard cooking wax paper to a sheet of copier paper.  I only place the wax paper to the area that had the pcb layout.  The first time I tried to run just the wax paper through the printer.  Not recommended, it will get jammed.

jkokura

Try using white or green painters tape instead of scotch tape. Just an idea.

Jacob

Brymus

I use regular tan masking tape,it sticks good on paper and is more flexible than scotch,but the painters tape is a good idea too.
I am tempted to try the wax paper but I just got this printer.And the magazine paper works really well for me.
thanks for the tip Jokokura
I'm no EE or even a tech,just a monkey with a soldering iron that can read,and follow instructions. ;D
My now defunct band http://www.facebook.com/TheZedLeppelinExperience

KazooMan

Running any regular tape through the printer worries me.  I use "scotch" brand double sided tape to attach a piece of PNP blue to the paper before running it through the printer.  I just print the layout and then use that sheet the locate a piece of PNP in the right spot.  The toner that is already on the sheet will not stick to the shiny side of the PNP.  You just need to leave a little bit space between the layout and the tape to allow you to cut it off.  I just throw the paper, tape and a bit of PNP away.  This should work for waxed paper as well.

peps1


Bryan is bang on, use thin glossy paper from a magazine or catalogue!

The Clone Theory was Pnp due to such thin tracers.



Ned Flanger

Any special printer settings when using the magazine paper?

peps1

I just use default, but cant harm things by picking your highest quality setting.