Placement of battery in enclosure

[papuanewjimmy]

Hi all,

First off, I can't get enough of the great info (and laughs) on this page.  Great stuff!

Second, apologies for asking what might be a redundant and over-asked question.  I searched here, other stompbox forums, and the web at large and just can't seem to find info on this.

Third, the question:
I'm putting together a tube screamer type pedal.  I've got a 1590 enclosure, which I thought would be plenty roomy for everything I wanted to throw in there, but things are a little bit more cramped than I planned.  So, although I will attempt to use this thing without a battery as much as possible, I'd like to ensure that I can actually fit the battery in there should it be necessary.  The problem is that I think it will be difficult to fit the battery in without it being directly under a pot or the board, or being painfully close to/touching a jack.

Condensed version: Do batteries cause interference when placed close to any parts in a pedal?  What is the ideal placement for the battery?  Is there any reason not to plan to throw it directly under a pot?

Thanks!!!

[JKowalski]

No interference. It's DC so you don't have coupling of signals like you can have with badly regulated wall warts with a large 120Hz ripple noise. Put it anywhere you want to.

[Mark Hammer]

I've had effects go from functional to not working when boxed up on many occasions BECAUSE  A BATTERY WAS SHORTING SOMETHING OUT.  Just because there is paint on top, do not forget the case of 9v batteries is metal.  So you ask a pertinent question.

Probably the "safest" locaton for a battery in a 1590B type box is to locate the stompswitch such that the battery goes between the stompswitch and the edge of the box closest to you.  This does two things.  First, it keeps the battery away from the board and the jack contacts.  Second, it provides a way to secure the battery so that it doesn't bounce around.  The bouncing around is not just annoying because of the noise it makes, but it also signifies that the battery snap and leads are being jiggled and have stress being placed in them, ultimately leading to fracture and failure.

HOWEVER, it is important to note that 9v batteries come in different package sizes.  Not radically different, but different enough that you need to plan for them.  The space you have allowed for an Eveready "Classic" (a rather slender carbon-zinc type, in comparison to the others) might not accomodate a Duracell or other battery brand with somewhat squarer shoulders.  Remember that the corners of the 1590B chassis where the bolts go take up space, and compromise how easily a battery will fit in there.  I've found myself kind of stuck many times when a battery I thought would fit didn't.

[newfish]

...and rechargeable batteries are even bulkier!

I add a couple of mm (1/16 of an inch) to the battery space inside the box - then use a small cube of sponge (cheap car-washing sponge) to stop the battery from moving.

This way, whether I use an alkaline, or a NiMh battery, I know it will fit.

Heat-shrink tubing round the pot connections has also been a recent (and slightly emabrrassing) revelation to me when preventing shorts.

+1 to using the DPDT / 3DPDT switch to keep the battery in place.

[Mark Hammer]

I find the spongey stuff that chips come in (NOT the conductive anti-static black stuff, but the stiff pink that is simply intended to keep pins straight) works well for making spacers for batteries.  Also the "fun foam" you can buy in 12" squares at crafts stores works well too.  That stuff looks a bit like a square of felt, and is a bit thicker than felt.  You can just cut it to shape/size with scissors.  It can be glued to the inside of the cover plate on a Hammond-type chassis so that nothing shorts out against the case.  That can be VERY helpful.

Crafts stores often sell it in many different colours, which gives you the option of havng the outside and the inside of the box colour coordinated!

[zombiwoof]

I've had effects go from functional to not working when boxed up on many occasions BECAUSE  A BATTERY WAS SHORTING SOMETHING OUT.  Just because there is paint on top, do not forget the case of 9v batteries is metal.  So you ask a pertinent question.

Probably the "safest" locaton for a battery in a 1590B type box is to locate the stompswitch such that the battery goes between the stompswitch and the edge of the box closest to you.  This does two things.  First, it keeps the battery away from the board and the jack contacts.  Second, it provides a way to secure the battery so that it doesn't bounce around.  The bouncing around is not just annoying because of the noise it makes, but it also signifies that the battery snap and leads are being jiggled and have stress being placed in them, ultimately leading to fracture and failure.

HOWEVER, it is important to note that 9v batteries come in different package sizes.  Not radically different, but different enough that you need to plan for them.  The space you have allowed for an Eveready "Classic" (a rather slender carbon-zinc type, in comparison to the others) might not accomodate a Duracell or other battery brand with somewhat squarer shoulders.  Remember that the corners of the 1590B chassis where the bolts go take up space, and compromise how easily a battery will fit in there.  I've found myself kind of stuck many times when a battery I thought would fit didn't.

Some of the modern 9 volt batteries won't even fit in the battery compartment of some of my vintage pedals.  I actually got one stuck in a Nobels pedal, and it locked the battery cover shut.  I had to take the bottom off the pedal and pop the battery cover "latch" from the inside of the pedal to get the battery out.

Al

[Mark Hammer]

Although there is much to be said for 3PDT switches, these smaller and more slender Alpha DPDT units that Small Bear sells have the virtue of being able to more easily accommodate jacks on either side, in a more compact space.  This frees up a lot of room for batteries on one side, and controls/PCB on the other.

[MikeH]

Although there is much to be said for 3PDT switches, these smaller and more slender Alpha DPDT units that Small Bear sells have the virtue of being able to more easily accommodate jacks on either side, in a more compact space.  This frees up a lot of room for batteries on one side, and controls/PCB on the other.

While this is true, I'd like to add that, just in my own personal experience, every one of these that I've used has broken.  Which is to say that 2 of them have failed on me.  Still, 0 for 2...

[zombiwoof]

Although there is much to be said for 3PDT switches, these smaller and more slender Alpha DPDT units that Small Bear sells have the virtue of being able to more easily accommodate jacks on either side, in a more compact space.  This frees up a lot of room for batteries on one side, and controls/PCB on the other.

While this is true, I'd like to add that, just in my own personal experience, every one of these that I've used has broken.  Which is to say that 2 of them have failed on me.  Still, 0 for 2...

Are you sure that it was the Alpha version, and not the cheaper "made in Taiwan" version?.  Just wanted to know for sure, because I have also heard good things about the Alpha DPDT.

Al

[Mark Hammer]

I bought a few of these from Steve a while back, and had no problems with them.

[MikeH]

This one:

Http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=955

In both instances the actuator broke free and the switch just came apart.  So, it's not like the contacts failed; the whole switch literally fell apart to bits.

[Earthscum]

Just a point to add to Mark Hammer's comment:

I've had no problem with fit (I give extra space and use foam, like some production pedals). I HAVE done the same thing with my battery shorting things. Sucks to open the pedal and it works fine, but every time you close it up, it quits again (I smoked a tranny in one like that... literally started smoking... was kewl to see smoke rolling from the base of the pedal).

Actually, I keep building pedals that I find I have to increase the clip lead length. Everything goes great until I go to clip the battery in and find I didn't leave enough length to fit it into place. I've also clamped wires when closing the boxes. One thing I may start doing is using the little plastic wire clips that have a sticky back to keep the wires from popping up while trying to close the case.

But, yeah... +2 on the idea of using the switch to keep the battery in place. I think it works the best. Like I said, I leave room and use the thin black foam padding. If you get to Hobby L., they have foam like previously stated that has sticky back. Then your insert doesn't fall out when you swap juice. I also use this on the bottom of the pedal for grip... it's cheap as hell, but it actually works super, especially on carpets.

[stringsthings]

I've had no problem with fit (I give extra space and use foam, like some production pedals). I HAVE done the same thing with my battery shorting things. Sucks to open the pedal and it works fine, but every time you close it up, it quits again (I smoked a tranny in one like that... literally started smoking... was kewl to see smoke rolling from the base of the pedal).

How did you destroy that transistor?  Were you applying too much voltage by way of a short?

[papuanewjimmy]

Thanks a bunch for the advice, all.  I should have this thing put together this coming weekend and will comment on any issues I have.

Cheers!

Jimmy

[alotawatts]

I have an old bicycle innertube that I cut up to 9V battery length and slip over ........insulates without eating up space.
Kind'a like an industrial strength condem...but not ribbed for her pleasure
 

[ianmgull]

This one:

Http://www.smallbearelec.com/Detail.bok?no=955

In both instances the actuator broke free and the switch just came apart.  So, it's not like the contacts failed; the whole switch literally fell apart to bits.

2nd that. had about half a dozen of these and 4 of the actuators broke off in less than a week of use.

[blooze_man]

I dont use batteries in my pedals and I also don't wire them for input jack power switching. I just unplug my pedal board when I'm not using it. Makes for smaller pedals and less wires inside.