|
Author
|
Topic: tiny tremoloOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO (Read 107836 times)
|
Perrow
Posts: 1536
Pelle T
|
The next one on the coming week...I have to say I experienced some volume loss with the TT - maybe we can say it's better to boost the signal somehow...
But, you're doin' it inline aren't you? No bleeding for you IIRC.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
nbabmf
Posts: 299
|
How would you describe the waveform with the LED/LDR in series vs. as a shunt to ground?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
deadastronaut
Posts: 6920
Rob H. LONDON
|
The next one on the coming week...I have to say I experienced some volume loss with the TT - maybe we can say it's better to boost the signal somehow...
But, you're doin' it inline aren't you? No bleeding for you IIRC. am i missing something here!...how can it lose signal if its going straight in and out...or do you mean when using the depth?..i guess!..rob. @nbabnf!!!!...there are sample clips on this thread if that helps.not too au fait with scopes yet etc!!!!!...
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: October 11, 2010, 04:05:49 AM by deadastronaut »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Gurner
Posts: 1228
|
am i missing something here!...how can it lose signal if its going straight in and out...or do you mean when using the depth?..i guess!..rob.
I'm coming into this one late...but it looks like the 'in' goes through a LDR & then straight 'out' again? If so, this will definitely lose you some signal strength....likely at the input (if fed passively from a standard guitar out), but certainly at the 'out' where it feeds onwards to the next device. This is because you've (in essence) got a potential divider scenario going on, with the divider 'chain' being.... 'guitar Volume pot' -> LDR 'resistance' in your circuit -> 'Impedance' of the follow on device.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
deadastronaut
Posts: 6920
Rob H. LONDON
|
am i missing something here!...how can it lose signal if its going straight in and out...or do you mean when using the depth?..i guess!..rob.
I'm coming into this one late...but it looks like the 'in' goes through a LDR & then straight 'out' again? If so, this will definitely lose you some signal strength....likely at the input (if fed passively from a standard guitar out), but certainly at the 'out' where it feeds onwards to the next device. This is because you've (in essence) got a potential divider scenario going on, with the divider 'chain' being.... 'guitar Volume pot' -> LDR 'resistance' in your circuit -> 'Impedance' of the follow on device. cheers gurner....what would you recommend as a cure for this?...some kind of boost/lift to the in/out...?..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Gurner
Posts: 1228
|
am i missing something here!...how can it lose signal if its going straight in and out...or do you mean when using the depth?..i guess!..rob.
I'm coming into this one late...but it looks like the 'in' goes through a LDR & then straight 'out' again? If so, this will definitely lose you some signal strength....likely at the input (if fed passively from a standard guitar out), but certainly at the 'out' where it feeds onwards to the next device. This is because you've (in essence) got a potential divider scenario going on, with the divider 'chain' being.... 'guitar Volume pot' -> LDR 'resistance' in your circuit -> 'Impedance' of the follow on device. cheers gurner....what would you recommend as a cure for this?...some kind of boost/lift to the in/out...?.. A simple buffer will do (it has a high input impedance...so won't load the guitar signal down, and a low ouput impedance...which is preferable here) ....there are schems aplenty for buffers ....but of course, you 'tiny trem' is going to start getting a little less tiny (also being active, it will change change the tone of your signal...re-establishing the highs that you weren't getting as much of before - which can be quite a shock to ears that are used to a long guitar cable acting as a low pass filter!). But hey, I'm not criticising...I always roll with what's pleasing....not necessarily the most techie approach - the world needs more dabblers & if it give you the results (& there seems to be plenty on this thread who are chuffed)...just stick with it.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
deadastronaut
Posts: 6920
Rob H. LONDON
|
@gurner. cheers man... yeah im a dabbler for sure!..  old school suck it n see method...ha ha... i'm sure it'll still be tiny-ish..  i still have it on bboard anyway...among other dabbling projects.. 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Perrow
Posts: 1536
Pelle T
|
IIRC volume drop was only an issue with the ldr inline, with bleeding it wasn't an issue.
One problem with bringing a boost on board is that signal and circuit ground will once again be connected and the risk of ticking from the 555 increases.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
elbandito
Posts: 6
|
Smaller vero layout, tested and working...Hope you enjoy it!!! Some ticking here...   Noob question here: Is that a jumper between pins 1 & 5, there? Also, as I'm just getting into all of this, what watt capacitor should I get to build this? 1/4 watt resistors all around too, right?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
John Lyons
Posts: 5617
Basic Audio
|
Yes, it's a jumper. Capacitors are rated for voltage and capacitance. Most caps are at least rated for 50 volts for film/ceramic and 16v for electrolytics. So you just need to worry about the value in uf or pf (no pf caps in this circuit though) and the physical size to fit in the layout. 5mm is the norm for pedals etc. As long as you caps are twice as hing in volts as the battery/power supply then you are fine. A 10v cap would work but it's better to have some buffer...
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
deadastronaut
Posts: 6920
Rob H. LONDON
|
IIRC volume drop was only an issue with the ldr inline, with bleeding it wasn't an issue.
One problem with bringing a boost on board is that signal and circuit ground will once again be connected and the risk of ticking from the 555 increases.
hmmmm......i see what you mean now!.....through the ldr or not!!!!!...thanks perrow.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ratbones
Posts: 33
Drew C.
|
So I breadboarded this and I'm getting the click from the chip because I have the input and output grounded on the same negative rail as the circuit which must be the cause... My question is, where do I ground in and out to avoid this buzzy clicking?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ratbones
Posts: 33
Drew C.
|
Sorry to double post, but I think I'm mistaken...
I don't think I'm getting a click from the 555. Rather, I think I'm getting buzz when the guitar signal is reduced by the LDR... It sounds like I'm turning my amp on with nothing plugged in (which I am thinking is essentially what the function of the circuit is right? to block some or all of the guitar signal going into the amp?).
If this is the case, is there any way to lessen that buzz?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
deadastronaut
Posts: 6920
Rob H. LONDON
|
Sorry to double post, but I think I'm mistaken...
I don't think I'm getting a click from the 555. Rather, I think I'm getting buzz when the guitar signal is reduced by the LDR... It sounds like I'm turning my amp on with nothing plugged in (which I am thinking is essentially what the function of the circuit is right? to block some or all of the guitar signal going into the amp?).
If this is the case, is there any way to lessen that buzz?
hi drew. there shouldnt be any buzzing! check your leads maybe!..this is a very clean circuit imo..ive had no problems with it... ground will have to go to any ground for it to work...use a 3mm led for the rate led...5mm for the ldr... dont forget the pin 1 to ground .... heres how i had it breadboarded..hope this helps in some way...  rob. 
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
Ratbones
Posts: 33
Drew C.
|
Ah! Excellent! That fixed my buzz slash tick problem. I dunno what I was thinking, I totally misinterpreted the schematic and had the ldr/led combo wired in all wonky.
Got another problem now though... If I have the rate led in, the led in the makeshift vactrol doesn't light up at all... Like the rate one saps all the current maybe?
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
thehoj
Posts: 40
|
For some reason I toasted my LED when I hooked it right up to the 555 timer.. I had to put a small resistor before the LED for it not to burn out.. Is that normal? Or did I have a bad LED? I don't want to test another one since I don't have anymore to spare..
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
pantufla
Posts: 10
|
@perrow.. why the pin 4 connection?...
I misread Adriano's post and haven't had time to correct myself. Pin 4 of the IC needs to be either removed or at least bent so it's not connected. I've updated the image with a note about this. Reload if you don't see it. On the other hand, I fixed it in ... [drumroll] ... the next version  Even moved the rate led ground to the edge of the board.  hay does it work? did u verify it? I'd build it but need to know if it is verified first. cheers
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
deadastronaut
Posts: 6920
Rob H. LONDON
|
Ah! Excellent! That fixed my buzz slash tick problem. I dunno what I was thinking, I totally misinterpreted the schematic and had the ldr/led combo wired in all wonky.
Got another problem now though... If I have the rate led in, the led in the makeshift vactrol doesn't light up at all... Like the rate one saps all the current maybe?
@ ratbones .that shouldnt happen, i made the stereo version, and both leds(vactrols) light up fine, and the 3mm rate led....no problem... are you using standard red leds...not superbrights?... @thehoi. havent had any problems like this....put both 5mm led in and the rate 3mm in then turn it on ok....should be fine. never had to use a resistor...are you using batteries or a psu..make sure its 9v only ok... @pantufla. i havent built this version no....maybe perrow has?  ?....mines still on a spare breadboard at the moment... maybe you should look at the tiny stereo pannerversion too..dual tremolo...panning left right etc..only another vactrol and 2 resistors... but you have the choice of 2 trems..use it as a normal trem, or stereo in the studio/live etc...i tried it, sounds great adds a dynamic movement to the sound especially on solos, or picking stuff......check it out....rob.  i uploaded a new video today of the tiny trem and stereo version....on breadboard still i got a bit of clicking at first attempt.....so i stuck a 1000uf across the power supply..it was close at hand...cured..bit extreme but it worked.. http://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry#p/u/6/Hb0heYolcTc
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: October 15, 2010, 04:12:21 AM by deadastronaut »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
Perrow
Posts: 1536
Pelle T
|
hay does it work? did u verify it? I'd build it but need to know if it is verified first.
cheers
Sorry, not verified yet, at least not by me. Waiting for parts and a pcb etched by another member.
|
|
|
|
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
deadastronaut
Posts: 6920
Rob H. LONDON
|
just a note going back to what gil(quackzed) was suggesting, about the wah type filter... i was thinking on this a bit more... oh no maybe i shouldnt think/drink so much!!!!!.. if we had a lo pass or a hi pass filter (or both) being controlled by led/ldr too then i think that should create the sweep yes?..so it would go from lo to hi..with the rate of the leds..very simple too, like me  and all my ideas!..  i feel another pedal coming on.. .any thoughts guys?..oh no i need more ldrs again!!!!!!!!...  .... i looked at hi and lo filters..i guess this is all there is to it yes?...apart from values..what values would you guys use?..and would it be just the resistors that were replaced by ldrs..or as well as resistors...thinking aloud again!.. 
|
|
|
|
« Last Edit: October 15, 2010, 07:19:23 AM by deadastronaut »
|
Logged
|
|
|
|
|
|