Making PCBs with magasine paper

[Gordo]

I've spent endless hours trying to find a replacement for the old Staples photo paper I used to use to make PCB transfers. I'd read about using magazine paper and assumed that it had to be a blank white spot. Duh, I finally figured out that ANY part of the page works. Photos, text, doesn't matter. Maybe I'm the last person on the planet to figure this out but the results are amazing! Deadly accurate and not really fussy about iron temperature. A short soak (like less than a minute) and it rubs right off. Ironically I used a page from Guitar Player magazine and that one issue will provide enough paper for the foreseeable future. This is a revelation!!!

[chromesphere]

Yeah magazine paper is great!  I have found slight differences in results between a couple of different magazines though. How easy the paper is to rub off (usually due to the thickness of the paper) and whether the toner sticks to the board easily or needs a bit of extra heat / ironing.  Still its easy to use. 

I havent used PNP before, but too be honest im not sure why i'd bother?  Magazine paper works fine...

Paul.

[fretzburner]

Very interesting info,can you please give more details about how to do it in step by step because i really want to know this for my little projects.Specially the transfering  from print to pcb and the etching.what pinter ink,etc.I live in area where not so "hightech"equipments and materials can be found so this info is very much needed.I have enough copies of guitar magazine here. thanks

[.Mike]

There is tons of info here on how to make PCBs.

Generally the process is:

- Make/find a design
- Print it on a transfer paper (pnp blue, magazine paper, photo paper) using a laser printer
- OR -
- Print it onto regular paper with an inkjet printer, and then photocopy it onto a transfer paper (pnp blue, magazine paper, photo paper)
- Scrub the PCB with a scrubbing pad
- Clean the PCB with something (acetone, alcohol)
- Put the transfer on the PCB
- Heat with an iron for 2 - 5 minutes while applying pressure
- Rinse under water and scrub with your fingers to remove the paper (or for some types, just peel it off)
- Etch the PCB in a corrosive liquid (Ferric Chloride, Muriatic Acid + Peroxide)
- Rinse the PCB in water
- Use acetone / scrubbing pad to remove the toner
- Drill holes
- Build effect



Mike

[Tony Forestiere]

There is tons of info here on how to make PCBs.

Generally the process is:

- Make/find a design
- Print it on a transfer paper (pnp blue, magazine paper, photo paper) using a laser printer
- OR -
- Print it onto regular paper with an inkjet printer, and then photocopy it onto a transfer paper (pnp blue, magazine paper, photo paper)
- Scrub the PCB with a scrubbing pad
- Clean the PCB with something (acetone, alcohol)
- Put the transfer on the PCB
- Heat with an iron for 2 - 5 minutes while applying pressure
- Rinse under water and scrub with your fingers to remove the paper (or for some types, just peel it off)
- Etch the PCB in a corrosive liquid (Ferric Chloride, Muriatic Acid + Peroxide)
- Rinse the PCB in water
- Use acetone / scrubbing pad to remove the toner
- Drill holes
- Build effect



Mike

Quickest synopsis ever.

[Gordo]

.Mike! Nice job.

The few details that seem to be working out are that Guitar Player mag works great. I haven't tried anything else, as this one issue would likely last me the rest of my life. Also I've noticed that HP laser toner seems to work better than Brother. I print the PCB transfer to paper, cut out some magazine paper and tape it over the area and run it thru the printer again.  That way the magazine paper sticks to the printer paper and the printer paper allows the iron to slide a lot easier but the magazine paper won't shift.  I iron for about 2 minutes or less and work the tip around the board (especially the edges). The most important thing is to make sure the edges of the copper board are filed down flush so that it doesn't interfere with the iron. It's amazing how a little raised edge will botch the process.

For etching I buy a few of the little Ziplock small disposable food containers with the snap on lids. I use ferric chloride and a little hot water. Usually a little more than to cover the board. Snap on the lid, and keep the container moving (just shake gently side to side). If the solution is kept moving it will work A LOT faster. I can usually have an etched board in 4 to 5 minutes that way. I use the same solution and container till it gets too gunked up and then add a little baking soda to neutralize the FeCL and seal it up when it's done bubbling.

[A.Gillies]

Is there an advantage to using magazine paper over photo paper?

[Maik]

first I think mag paper is better cause there is some colour on the paper. Therefor it will "remove" better,cause there´s no realy contact to the paper.
Second it´s ceaper
Third - try to read something on new photopaper...

[Gordo]

Yeah, like Maik says, it's a heck of a lot cheaper.  I think they've changed how they make photo paper over the past few years and I haven't been able to get it to work right.  I've been thru tons of it.  I think PNP gives slightly sharper edges but unless you're doing REALLY complex boards it works quite nicely.  Also don't follow the guitar player's instinct of "more is better" with the iron.  I have mine about 3/4 of the way up on the heat setting, no steam, and don't over do it.  If the board gets too hot it may have a tendancy to move the toner around a bit and the edges get a bit blurry.  If it doesn't work use acetone to clean the board and try it again.  Also make sure the board is really clean.  I scrub mine with steel wool and then rub them down with acetone to get rid of any oil and dirt.

[dcjim]

I've used magazine paper and PNP a lot. I find I get more consistent results with PNP for finer traces (5 mil if you're super careful) and generally more detailed work. Not so important for audio circuits but I do quite a lot of stuff with microcontrollers too and they often demand greater resolution. I've even managed some SMD circuits with PNP.

I don't use an iron any more either. I use a laminating machine. I try to get 0.8 mm copper boards as they'll go through most laminators without either assistance from me (a good hard push in other words) or modifying the laminator (loosening/removing springs). I can get a board (double-sided too) ready for etching in just a few minutes these days

1. Mark back of plain sheet of A4 paper and put in laser printer
2. Print circuit
3. Cut piece of PNP to size
4. Place over printed image on paper and tape at edges with masking tape
5. Return paper to printer noting marks from step 1 for correct orientation
6. Print circuit
7. Cut copper clad board to size
8. De-burr edges, rub down with fine sand paper, wash in hot water and detergent, allow to dry thoroughly
8. Cut PNP to size
9. Secure PNP to copper clad board with masking tape
10. Pass through laminator 15-20 times
11. Remove PNP, check for any breaks (repair with permanent marker) and you're ready to etch!

[deadastronaut]

hmmm.. question about mag paper...?

do you have to make sure its  A4 size then?...

do you attach the mag paper to an a4 sheet..?..

its not my printer, so i dont want to block it up...

[markeebee]

Yeah, those A4 magazines are pretty hard to find.

[deadastronaut]

hmm...i have a couple of old porno's laying around, might use page 23...she looks up to the job..

would page 23 be ok?...or should i stick to pages 12 and 17

[markeebee]

Depends what you mean by "stick to".

[deadastronaut]

@mark...hmmm....


edited...

[bluesman1218]

Depends what you mean by "stick to".

TFF!

[Maik]

Hey Rob, what about page 42?
Pornomag´s are not so good - ähm...not the mark´d one´s...only if you like 3D

[deadastronaut]

i ended up using the compulsory aston martin advert in the middle...

it worked well...british engineering i guess!...

[Maik]