Clearcoating an etched enclosure

Started by Heemis, March 04, 2011, 02:21:58 PM

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Heemis

So I've recently started etching enclosures.  I've done 3 or 4, and they're starting to come out really well.  I paint the enclosures after etching and sand off the paint from the non-etched areas.  Was just wondering about the durability of the paint in the etched areas.  Has anyone ever clearcoated their etched enclosures?  How does it look?  Does it help keep the paint from scraping off?  Is it worth it?? 

I'm thinking the pedal will start to look pretty cool as the paint chips from wear and tear, but was curious about the alternatives.

Taylor

I always clear coat etched boxes. Not so much for durability, but because it makes the sanded portions have more depth and shine. The metal looks much more finished and 3-dimensional.

frequencycentral

Funny, I was just sitting thinking exactly the same my self, just did this enclosure this week, about to build it this weekend. I guess I'll clearcoat it.

http://www.frequencycentral.co.uk/

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Earthscum

I'm more interested in finding out what clear coats are actually adhering to raw aluminum. From my experience clear coats eventually chip and peel. Clear over the painted part should be fine but you're better off using an aluminum sealer like Zoot's over the raw part.
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robmdall

Wondered if anyone has used the Clear made for Aluminum Automobile Wheels?? I have seen it offered from various manufactures.

Bob

glops

I use the auto wheel clear and it works great for etched enlosures.  I have only found glossy at this point

Earthscum

*smacks forehead*

I was just "ooh"ing and "aah"ing at that stuff the other day when we were getting wipers.  :icon_redface:

My idea was that I could do a polish, etch, fill, and be able to have graphics that will stay on the polished surface. Something kewl about doing graphics with an etch, and basically top graphics (pistriping, etc) just chip and flake away from raw aluminum. I hope the clear will act as a good adhesive surface for paint on top. 3 or 4 layers of clear, graphics, clear, top graphics... THAT's how ya create depth  ;D  Then I can finally do some silver and copper leaf, too.

(next time I do a fill, I'll have my GF photograph it and I'll write up a simple tutorial on doing enamel fill, the way we do it in engravings. There's 2 techniques I use, and it makes life REALLY simple).
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Barcode80

you can also use any clear coat but put a coat of adhesion promoter on before it. Works like a charm.

Incidentally though, I've been clear coating with $.99 wal mart clear and also with duplicolor auto clear. Both I've done with no adhesion promoter or any special prep. Years of use, neither have chipped off.

Quackzed

ive used clear enamel on raw aluminum, held up pretty well so far... i think enamel has slightly better adhesion properties for smooth surfaces... iirc.
nothing says forever like a solid block of liquid nails!!!

glops

The auto aluminum clear is use is bought from Auto Zone for 6 bucks a pop. I'm pretty sure that the brand is Krylon. But it's the aluminum hub cap spray. Works great with thin or thick coats especially when you have some heat added to the box post spray.

I do a lot of reverse etching and have not had any chipping at all. I don't use any primer on the etched parts as the pain seems to stick better to my etched areas.  The hub cap stuff from auto z is glossy and looks great but I wish satin was available.  It's a grat clear that's pretty hard and durable.   

Pigyboy

Like that case Rick!  Here is an unpainted etch with a clear coat

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bluesman1218

Quote from: Pigyboy on March 05, 2011, 05:48:47 AM
Like that case Rick!  Here is an unpainted etch with a clear coat



Hmmm..... just getting ready to etch my first PCBs and guessing enclosures will be next. Has any used laser overhead stock instead of PNP Blue? I'm assuming (I know, I know) there's a tutorial for etching enclosures here somewhere.
It's all about the tone!
Steve

POPA - Plain Old Power Attenuator AVAILABLE for PURCHASE soon!
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deadastronaut

yep i clearcoat with car laquer...stops the pedal from going dull...oxidizing...

i looked at an old etch i did about a year ago, very dull now...so its clear for me from now on..


warm it a little , dont spray onto a cold box..it will bloom, go pearly and blurry...spray a coat and bake..flat and .repeat...goes as hard and smooth as glass when baked on..


just waiting on my toaster oven i bought!. :icon_rolleyes:
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chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

bluesman1218

I've been using a toaster oven to bake my finishes for the last year and it does a great job. I use automotive lacquer, bake - decal - clearcoat enamel, bake. Now to learn the etching process. I'm excited about the graphic possibilities.
It's all about the tone!
Steve

POPA - Plain Old Power Attenuator AVAILABLE for PURCHASE soon!
Silvertone 1482 rebuilt - switchable Tweed, tube reverb, Baxandall + / Little Angel Chorus build, tons of Modded pedals

deadastronaut

@bluesman,

out of curiosity, what temp and how long do you bake?..

i'm getting a toaster oven which has elements on the top and bottom..(hinari tiny top) :icon_cool:
https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//

Barcode80

Quote from: deadastronaut on March 05, 2011, 12:04:43 PM
@bluesman,

out of curiosity, what temp and how long do you bake?..

i'm getting a toaster oven which has elements on the top and bottom..(hinari tiny top) :icon_cool:

I've always done a half hour at 150

check out beavis audio for the "box in a day tutorial"

bluesman1218

It's all about the tone!
Steve

POPA - Plain Old Power Attenuator AVAILABLE for PURCHASE soon!
Silvertone 1482 rebuilt - switchable Tweed, tube reverb, Baxandall + / Little Angel Chorus build, tons of Modded pedals