That deep wet look...

Started by Celery_Strat, April 02, 2011, 12:39:34 PM

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Celery_Strat

Hey guys.  Just finished this.




And I want to clear it to that very deep "block of glass" look.  Would pouring on clear out of a can be an option?  I normally spray and wet sand / polish,  which is fine, but I want to actually be able to see physical depth in the clear.  I have tried all day to find an example of the finish i want.  I've seen it in some pics here, I know it, but I can't find them now.  

davent

Look for pedals by Cloudscape. He's using an epoxy finish that will give you exactly what you are after. I don't think your regular finish poured out of the can would yield anything but a gummy mess.
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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Celery_Strat

Let me clarify that by "clear coat"  I meant something along the lines of a brush-on poly like Minwax.  Not automotive clearcoat that requires a catalyst.  Gummy mess That would be indeed!  ;D

davent

Found a tutorial by someone else using the epoxy clearcoat. http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=88271.0

I think the Minwax  would still give you a mess poured on.

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
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Celery_Strat

I'll be readin' on that.  Thanks, Dave!

Randy

trjones1

I've been using envirotex like in that tutorial.  I like it a lot, but I wouldn't try it out on that box in a first attempt.  Do some test pourings first as it takes a little experience to avoid messing up a good paint job.

Steben

If you want a thick coating, think about drilling first. Drilling can damage plastic substances, like paint and coats.
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Celery_Strat

Dave, That's it.  That's the stuff.  Thanks.  And yeah I'll be careful drilling.  I have a drill press, so that'll help.   I don't want to drill before coating it, because it leaves those "swollen" places around the edges of the holes...  Thanks guys.

Randy

danielzink

Quote from: Celery_Strat on April 02, 2011, 03:02:35 PM
Dave, That's it.  That's the stuff.  Thanks.  And yeah I'll be careful drilling.  I have a drill press, so that'll help.   I don't want to drill before coating it, because it leaves those "swollen" places around the edges of the holes...  Thanks guys.

Randy

You're going to tear stuff up and make a big mess if you try to drill after the clear (if it's really that thick). Plus - you won't be able to center punch your holes. Also - the washers and knobs should cover up the "swollen" spots.

Dan

trjones1

Quote from: danielzink on April 02, 2011, 04:45:25 PM
You're going to tear stuff up and make a big mess if you try to drill after the clear (if it's really that thick). Plus - you won't be able to center punch your holes. Also - the washers and knobs should cover up the "swollen" spots.

Dan

Envirotex is actually pretty flexible, even after it's finished its "hard cure".  The instructions say that even when hard you can make impressions in is (that will rise back out).  If you do your drilling about 12 hours after application (when it's still pretty soft, but you don't have to worry about dust) I would bet that it would drill just fine.  I think someone in that tutorial thread mentioned that he drilled after application.

One big caveat is that I haven't tried drilling through it, so don't take anything I say as gospel.

Celery_Strat

Yeah. I think it'll be fine.  I'm not new to drilling and things by any stretch, and with a variable speed drill press, there's no need to punch holes really.  Super thankful for the thread link though, Dave.  I'll put up some pics of the finished product.

Randy

Celery_Strat

Here she is!  My first resin coated pedal.  First swirl job too!   ;D




egasimus


Paul Marossy

Yeah, that's a pretty cool paint job!  :icon_cool:


bluesman1218

Celery, that is not only tasty  8) ('60's expression for you younger folks), but also inspiring!
It's all about the tone!
Steve

POPA - Plain Old Power Attenuator AVAILABLE for PURCHASE soon!
Silvertone 1482 rebuilt - switchable Tweed, tube reverb, Baxandall + / Little Angel Chorus build, tons of Modded pedals

davent

Nicely done Randy! Any tips on drilling after painting and coating? Did you end up using Envirotex?

dave
"If you always do what you always did- you always get what you always got." - Unknown
https://chrome.google.com/webstore/detail/photobucket-hotlink-fix/kegnjbncdcliihbemealioapbifiaedg

Celery_Strat

Yeah, I went with the 8oz kit from Michaels.  Jesus that stuff is pricey!!!  It's also an inherently wasteful process as well, because of the pouring it runs so much off around the sides before you've built the top up.   I think I can get quite a few pedals out of it, though.  It was painful, but I waited about 30-ish hours to drill.  The envirotex was solid, but soft if that makes sense.  Probably will wait a tad longer on the next one.  The reason I say that is that the metal shavings were a real pain to get off the enclosure without scratching it.  I wound up using the air blower.  Overall I am very pleased with the results.   I have all sorts of ideas flowing through my head with this stuff.  Many more pics to come, I think.


Randy

defaced

QuoteIt's also an inherently wasteful process as well, because of the pouring it runs so much off around the sides before you've built the top up.   I think I can get quite a few pedals out of it, though.
You can cheat that.  Tape around the perimeter of the pedal, pour the top and let that cure.  Remove the tape and lightly sand the epoxy .  Now pour over the entire surface to achieve a smooth clean surface.  IME, the clear epoxies wet themselves amazingly well and no signs of previous sanding are present.  I will agree with previous concerns though, drill, coat, then clean up the holes when you're finished.  I'd actually go through the effort of drilling before painting, but that's because I'm, uh, erm, "heavy handed" and will destroy a finish before I'm done drilling.  
-Mike