Gear Mains Switcher , Let's Discuss .

Started by DavenPaget, October 29, 2011, 03:34:48 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

DavenPaget




Any potential problems ( Other than earth grounding , surely you know how to do that don't you ?  :icon_mrgreen: )
AGND specially belongs to 9v side .

**UPDATED .
9v side and AC side is completely isolated unless somebody does something else i don't know .
Hiatus

DavenPaget

http://sg.element14.com/crydom/cx240d5r/ssr-5a-240vac/dp/1613825 5A 240VAC <
You can use a standard relay if you like .
But surely , please change the fuse to what you think is appropriate . like 7A  :icon_redface:
Hiatus

Fender3D

Well I guess you need a resistor between X2 and K1/K2 LEDs, but my question is:
why disconnect mains power with a stompswitch?
Wouldn't be better use a photo triac? For a noiseless operation you should switch when AC crosses 0V...
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

DavenPaget

Quote from: Fender3D on October 29, 2011, 08:41:36 PM
Well I guess you need a resistor between X2 and K1/K2 LEDs, but my question is:
why disconnect mains power with a stompswitch?
Wouldn't be better use a photo triac? For a noiseless operation you should switch when AC crosses 0V...
That's a SSR .
The stompswitch is on 9V .
Hiatus

R.G.

I'm with Fender on this one. It's not clear to me why one would need to do this.

I haven't checked through the schemo in detail, but there do exist SSRs which can be controlled by 9V dc in the controls side. But there are some gotchas, not least that SSRs are not perfect "off" switches. They often leak a few milliamperes. This is trivial to a power load, but not trivial to a human who expects "off" to really mean off.

Beyond that, stomp switches were appropriated from the parentage of power switches. The Carling 316s and 641s which were the ancestor of all our DPDTs were in fact rated at 5 or 6A and 250Vac. So unless you really need electronic remote control for some reason, read the fine print on your DPDT and see if it won't do the job all by itself. This also has the advantage of not running your signal ground (which is often what 9Vdc is used for) into the same enclosure with live AC power.

I know I keep harping on this, but wiring AC power line stuff is not fun, not funny, and mistakes can be very serious.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

DavenPaget

#5
Quote from: R.G. on October 29, 2011, 11:56:29 PM
I'm with Fender on this one. It's not clear to me why one would need to do this.

I haven't checked through the schemo in detail, but there do exist SSRs which can be controlled by 9V dc in the controls side. But there are some gotchas, not least that SSRs are not perfect "off" switches. They often leak a few milliamperes. This is trivial to a power load, but not trivial to a human who expects "off" to really mean off.

Beyond that, stomp switches were appropriated from the parentage of power switches. The Carling 316s and 641s which were the ancestor of all our DPDTs were in fact rated at 5 or 6A and 250Vac. So unless you really need electronic remote control for some reason, read the fine print on your DPDT and see if it won't do the job all by itself. This also has the advantage of not running your signal ground (which is often what 9Vdc is used for) into the same enclosure with live AC power.

I know I keep harping on this, but wiring AC power line stuff is not fun, not funny, and mistakes can be very serious.
Er no , the X1 on the stompbox w/ LED connects to the X2 , connects to the DC side of the control panel .
So pretty much any DPDT stomp or if you want panel mount DPDT can be used .
Hiatus

R.G.

Quote from: DavenPaget on October 30, 2011, 09:40:39 AM
Quote from: R.G. on October 29, 2011, 11:56:29 PM
I'm with Fender on this one. It's not clear to me why one would need to do this.

I haven't checked through the schemo in detail, but there do exist SSRs which can be controlled by 9V dc in the controls side. But there are some gotchas, not least that SSRs are not perfect "off" switches. They often leak a few milliamperes. This is trivial to a power load, but not trivial to a human who expects "off" to really mean off.

Beyond that, stomp switches were appropriated from the parentage of power switches. The Carling 316s and 641s which were the ancestor of all our DPDTs were in fact rated at 5 or 6A and 250Vac. So unless you really need electronic remote control for some reason, read the fine print on your DPDT and see if it won't do the job all by itself. This also has the advantage of not running your signal ground (which is often what 9Vdc is used for) into the same enclosure with live AC power.

I know I keep harping on this, but wiring AC power line stuff is not fun, not funny, and mistakes can be very serious.
Er no , the X1 on the stompbox w/ LED connects to the X2 , connects to the DC side of the control panel .
So pretty much any DPDT stomp or if you want panel mount DPDT can be used .
I'm confused. I'm not really certain what "er, no" refers to. If you meant "no, the ground never gets into the AC power box because the switch is in a stompbox, and that's separated from the AC wiring box by connectors X1 and X2", that's a misconception. I was referring to the wire that carries "AGND" into the enclosure with the SSRs. A short from the power wires to that line makes the analog ground wires hot all along it. If there is any equipment sharing AGND through the 9V power supply on the pedalboard, and particularly if there is no solid connection to AC safety ground through the pedalboard power supply or the amplifier it's plugged into, then a short to AGND in the SSR box raises AGND to line potential, and it then poses an electrocution hazard.

I'm back at my original question. Can you state what you are trying to do with the footswitch switching of remote AC? There may be a better way.
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

earthtonesaudio

1. When the switch is supposed to go to "on" you are shorting 9V to AGND, not exactly a healthy condition for the 9V supply.  Because of this D1 never turns on.
2. No resistor between 9V and the LED in the SSR is bad for the SSR as stated above

I would highly recommend mastering the low voltage stuff before moving on to mains wiring.

DavenPaget

Quote from: earthtonesaudio on October 30, 2011, 11:28:09 AM
1. When the switch is supposed to go to "on" you are shorting 9V to AGND, not exactly a healthy condition for the 9V supply.  Because of this D1 never turns on.
2. No resistor between 9V and the LED in the SSR is bad for the SSR as stated above

I would highly recommend mastering the low voltage stuff before moving on to mains wiring.
Right ...
  ;D
Hiatus

earthtonesaudio

#9
Closer, but still not ready for prime time.

The (updated?) first schematic will work better for the LEDs inside the SSRs.  This new one with a single resistor may only light one SSR.

Note the wire between pins 2 and 3 of the XLR cable X1.  Assuming a standard XLR cable that means 2 and 3 will be shorted together at the X2 jack as well.

Fender3D

Sorry but...
what's the purpose of R4 (1st and 2nd schem.)?
Shouldn't you just need a switch feeding a positive voltage to R2-R3 (1st schem.)?
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

DavenPaget

#11
Quote from: earthtonesaudio on October 31, 2011, 12:31:51 PM
Closer, but still not ready for prime time.

The (updated?) first schematic will work better for the LEDs inside the SSRs.  This new one with a single resistor may only light one SSR.

Note the wire between pins 2 and 3 of the XLR cable X1.  Assuming a standard XLR cable that means 2 and 3 will be shorted together at the X2 jack as well.
The next way is to use a 4-pole XLR
Hiatus

earthtonesaudio

That will work, congrats!  Be safe.
A 4-conductor cable is not necessary though.  Look how you've turned it into a 3-conductor by shorting two of the pins together.



And... if you want to challenge yourself a bit more, try and do it simpler than:
1 SPDT switch, 2 resistors, and a 3-conductor cable

...without looking at this schematic first. ;)
There may be an even simpler way to do it that I haven't thought of.

DavenPaget

#13
Quote from: earthtonesaudio on October 31, 2011, 03:22:55 PM
That will work, congrats!  Be safe.
A 4-conductor cable is not necessary though.  Look how you've turned it into a 3-conductor by shorting two of the pins together.



And... if you want to challenge yourself a bit more, try and do it simpler than:
1 SPDT switch, 2 resistors, and a 3-conductor cable

...without looking at this schematic first. ;)
There may be an even simpler way to do it that I haven't thought of.
OH ! gimme a sec .
I could have used a SPDT , but DPDT stomp switches are much more common , and i still wanted to use the other half .

Quiescent Current On : 1.7ma w/o SSR current ( usually 6ma w/o 500R )
Quiescent Current Off : 1.7ma
( REMEMBER TO USE A SEPARATE REGULATED POWER SUPPLY ! )
Hiatus

R.G.

I'm still left wondering - why do this at all? What does it accomplish that can't be done other ways?
R.G.

In response to the questions in the forum - PCB Layout for Musical Effects is available from The Book Patch. Search "PCB Layout" and it ought to appear.

DavenPaget

Quote from: R.G. on October 31, 2011, 11:41:07 PM
I'm still left wondering - why do this at all? What does it accomplish that can't be done other ways?
I don't know ... I just thought of this because i always had a problem of my stuff being far away and no way to turn them off .
Serves as a way to ease my "nervous" nerves .
Hiatus