troubleshooting green Russian version of Big Muff Pi - layout check?

[pacific]

Hello all.

I recently wired up a green Russian Muff using the parts values/wiring diagram from GGG and a vero layout I found through a Google image search. I used great care in wiring everything correctly and arranging everything as neatly as possible. HOWEVER.

In bypassed mode, the signal carries through like it should. When engaged, the led lights up, a small amount of hiss comes through like it ought to, but when I apply a signal there's nothing.

I used the following layouts to build this pedal.

vero layout:
http://www.fredric.co.uk/misc/green%20russian%20big%20muff%20stripboard%20veroboard%20layout.gif

wiring layout:
http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_wiring.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a

I figured out early on that the vero layout I used shows the volume pot wired backwards (ie lugs 1 and 3 reversed); I flipped 'em to where I thought they should be (ie ground connected to lug 1) when I initially wired it up. As part of my troubleshooting process, I swapped 1 and 3 and this did nothing except reverse the pot's range as expected (namely, a little bit of hiss when turned all the way counterclockwise, and silence when turned all the way clockwise).

I used a fresh battery and, when the pedal didn't work, tried another fresh battery.

I bought a digital multimeter (model GDT-3190 from Gardner Bender).

substitutions:

I subbed bc109's from Mammoth for the transistors, using http://www.elektropage.com/default.asp?tid=843 as a reference for the pinout. So looking at the vero layout, orientation for Q1, Q2 and Q3 is, top to bottom, 3 2 1 or c b e. Q4 is top to bottom 1 2 3 or e b c. I don't know who manufactures these transistors sold by Mammoth; perhaps the specsheet I am using for reference is not applicable (namely, different manufacturer = different pinout)?

I used clear LEDs for the second stage clipping diodes. (I double, triple, and quadruple-checked the orientation of all four diodes.)

I am ready to start debugging but need a little bit of guidance. My multimeter doesn't seem to have a continuity mode.

I guess what I'm asking for is to have someone, anyone, check the vero layout I used for errors; at this point I would like to at least rule that possibility out.

The GGG schematic for the Green Russian Muff is at http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/pdf/ggg_bmp_grus_sc.pdf?phpMyAdmin=78482479fd7e7fc3768044a841b3e85a and while I can slog my way through a schematic, I am not adept at looking at one and seeing the big picture, so to speak, or breaking down the circuit in my mind into manageable sections.

I offer humble thanks in advance for any assistance anyone can offer.

[stringsthings]

can you give us the voltages on the transistors?

[stringsthings]

... went over the layout on paper and it checks out alright ...

[LucifersTrip]

My multimeter doesn't seem to have a continuity mode.

It does not need a continuity mode. Set the meter on a resistance scale (20k, 200k, etc...don't use the lowest ohm scale)

Probe the 2 points you'd like to check the continuity between.  If the meter reads "0" (zero), then there's no resistance = continuity. It's that simple.