Painting labels using toner transfer method as mask?

Started by add4, November 06, 2011, 05:55:40 PM

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add4

I am wondering if anybody tried this method to get a kind of stencil for painting labels and if it would work?
- Paint background color (in my case, powder coating)
- Print the art and labels in negative with a laser printer on high gloss paper
- Iron it on the box
- Apply the label color using spray can paint or powder coat
- remove the toner using acetone
- clear coat on all of this

open questions:
- Would the toner transfer method work on an already painted box?
- Would the toner resist the heat needed to cure the powder
- Would the spray can paint/ cured powder resist the acetone when removing the toner?

Is there any other method to create a stencil from artwork done on computer?

The way i see this, this could be a way to get MXR type labels, painted on the box, and i'd love that
Thanks for sharing your experiences, if someone has already tried that

Peace

add4


chi_boy

#2
QuoteI'm actually looking at the same thing, but the other way around.   I'm trying to learn how to use the PulsarPro product for doing labels and simple graphics.   You might be able to do what you want with the system, but I'm not sure about how to get it back off.    

Or the system might work for you as the primary method.   The last hurdle I'm looking at is how to clearcoat after application.


Thought about this a little more.  I don't think it would work for what you are after.  Sorry.
"Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, small minds discuss people." — Admiral Hyman G. Rickover - 1900-1986

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DavenPaget

Hiatus

Jorge_S

Quote from: DavenPaget on November 07, 2011, 02:33:50 PM
http://www.kitrae.net/music/Custom_Pedal_Graphics.html
Came across it , i LOVED IT !  ;D

Have you tried it? I am currently using car paint for flat colors, will common lacquer over the transfer stick to the car paint?

markeebee

The heat necessary to bond the transfer can cause the paint to bubble, or so I read.

So I did a very similar process, but instead of auto paint I used spray paint designed for painting your barbecue or stove. It can withstand 400C or something. Only comes in 3 or 4 colours, but it worked ok if you let the paint dry for a couple of days before applying the transfer. I got bored with all the clearcoating, though.

I got some of this yesterday, could be interesting but I won't have time to try it until next week sometime:

http://www.craftycomputerpaper.co.uk/.Magic-Decal-Paper_256.htm

deadastronaut

^ yep ive used crafty for paper before..(normal waterslide) .its good stuff...

https://www.youtube.com/user/100roberthenry
https://deadastronaut.wixsite.com/effects

chasm reverb/tremshifter/faze filter/abductor II delay/timestream reverb/dreamtime delay/skinwalker hi gain dist/black triangle OD/ nano drums/space patrol fuzz//


GGBB

Quote from: add4 on November 06, 2011, 05:55:40 PM
- Would the spray can paint/ cured powder resist the acetone when removing the toner?
That would be my big question too.  I kind of doubt that the acetone would work underneath the paint/powder, and even if it id, what would the edges look like where the paint on base coat meets the paint on toner.

I've read that waterslide decals can be baked on (Lazertran at least).  I'm looking at trying this technique in the next couple of weeks: http://www.theartfulcrafter.com/waterslide-decals-two.html.  My only question is what happens to the pedal's base coat of paint when you bake it?  Does it melt/liquify?  I plan to use Valspar premium enamel primer then metallic paint, both of which I will bake before applying the decal.  After the decal has been baked on I will topcoat with clear enamel and bake again.  Does this sound reasonable?  Anyone have experience with these techniques?
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DavenPaget

Quote from: Jorge_S on November 08, 2011, 08:40:41 PM
Quote from: DavenPaget on November 07, 2011, 02:33:50 PM
http://www.kitrae.net/music/Custom_Pedal_Graphics.html
Came across it , i LOVED IT !  ;D

Have you tried it? I am currently using car paint for flat colors, will common lacquer over the transfer stick to the car paint?

That guy recommends glossy or semi-gloss satin clear coat and i don't have a pedal to try on but i have very much done it on a metal pipe  :icon_mrgreen:
Hiatus

add4

Maybe i haven't read the answers deeply enough, but i don't see any way of making a white/clear label on a transparent decal so far ..
or am i mistaken?

DavenPaget

Quote from: add4 on November 09, 2011, 01:20:53 PM
Maybe i haven't read the answers deeply enough, but i don't see any way of making a white/clear label on a transparent decal so far ..
or am i mistaken?


The t-shirt transfer method uses automotive or paint meant for metal and a glossy or semi gloss satin .
So yeah , it's a different method but it works magnificently .
Hiatus

add4

Is it the method that only deposits the label and not the carrier?
I really would like to get the kind of labels that seem 'painted' over the background color. then you can feel a layer of paint if you slide your fingers on them.
You can see that on almost every commercial pedals: mxr, ibanez, boss, etc etc.
I still don't understand how the white color is obtained using that method .. sorry if i'm slow on that subject :p


GGBB

Quote from: add4 on November 10, 2011, 01:59:23 AM
Is it the method that only deposits the label and not the carrier?
I really would like to get the kind of labels that seem 'painted' over the background color. then you can feel a layer of paint if you slide your fingers on them.
You can see that on almost every commercial pedals: mxr, ibanez, boss, etc etc.
I still don't understand how the white color is obtained using that method .. sorry if i'm slow on that subject :p
I'm no expert, but I'm pretty sure that production pedals are done using screen printing, which is essentially a stencil.  Therefore the raised graphics and possibility of white paint.

Ideas to create a stencil.  Maybe you can create a stencil by laser printing a negative to a transparency and then dissolving the positive portion of the transparency using turpentine.  Or use a laser-printed decal of some sort (maybe waterslide) that you first adhere to the pedal, then dissolve your positive with turpentine, then paint, then remove the decal.  I haven't tried any of these things - just brainstorming.  I also would like to be able to do what you are trying to do.

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chi_boy

This is what the PulsarPro stuff looks like.  This is my second box using it and it's getting easier.  It's not perfect, but it's approaching acceptable.  It does have a very "silk screen" type appearance.  There's a little bit of a learning curve, but not too bad.




"Great minds discuss ideas, average minds discuss events, small minds discuss people." — Admiral Hyman G. Rickover - 1900-1986

The Leftover PCB Page

add4

Congrats!
Looks good.
What about the price? Theres a few hundred dollars to invest at the beginning, plus consumables. it looks quite expensive to me. Have you estimated the cost of labeling one box?
Just wondering.