What has the same pinout as the LM386 Op Amp?

[LucifersTrip]

A friend has a pedal with a socketed, and now blown LM386. I rarely work with Op Amps but on a quick search, most I see have output at pin 5 (not pin 6 like the 386).

He complained about a fizzy decay, and I've also had similar problems in the rare instances when I used 386's.

Is there an alternative he can just snap in?  difference between LM386L and LM386N?

thanx

[CynicalMan]

The LM386 isn't an op amp, it's a power amp. It's a different kind of chip, made to drive a low impedance load at a set range of gains. AFAIK there aren't any replacements or equivalents.

[LucifersTrip]

Sounds cool...Goes to show how little I use em! The 386's were in a sale list in the op-amp section...

Is there a difference between the L and N ?

thanx again

[waltk]

Is there a difference between the L and N ?

The LM386L is just UTC's version (L is for lead-free plating).  I've used both, and they are pretty much identical.  If you are replacing an LM386N-4, however, you might need to go with that as it allows a higher supply voltage.

[LucifersTrip]

Is there a difference between the L and N ?

The LM386L is just UTC's version (L is for lead-free plating).  I've used both, and they are pretty much identical.  If you are replacing an LM386N-4, however, you might need to go with that as it allows a higher supply voltage.

sounds good...His 386 is marked LM386L.

thanx much for the info....and back to the germaniums for me.

[deadastronaut]

for the fizzle decay, stick a 100uf -220uf across the + -.....it worked for me! on the big bastard distortion...

[LucifersTrip]

for the fizzle decay, stick a 100uf -220uf across the + -.....it worked for me! on the big bastard distortion...

thanx alot...I'll definitely try that.

I had the exact same fizzle decay problem with op amps (similar solution?). Again, I've made very few with IC's, but they stick in my mind. The worst was with a 4558 Muff Fuzz.

[deadastronaut]

 it may work on other ic projects....i always have a 100uf on my breadboard just to filter psu...i think its pretty much standard practice going by a lot of schematics ive seen etc...

i know when i was experimenting with the 386 it was noisey as hell without a 100uf across the + -   hope it works for ya!.

[Tylerdee]

Excuse my ignorance as a novice but where would I place this cap in the circuit?

for the fizzle decay, stick a 100uf -220uf across the + -.....it worked for me! on the big bastard distortion...

[LucifersTrip]

Excuse my ignorance as a novice but where would I place this cap in the circuit?

for the fizzle decay, stick a 100uf -220uf across the + -.....it worked for me! on the big bastard distortion...

from the + of the power supply to the - of the power supply

[Mark Hammer]

I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that, as far as use in pedal circuits goes, a 386 is a 386 is a 386.  If we were talking about running the chip as a small power amp into a low-impedance load like a speaker, then yes, power dissipation rating (what differentiates the 386-1 from the -2 and -4) would make a difference.  But for the small current-handling typical of distortions, I doubt that applies.

[Electron Tornado]

I'm going to go out on a limb and suggest that, as far as use in pedal circuits goes, a 386 is a 386 is a 386.  If we were talking about running the chip as a small power amp into a low-impedance load like a speaker, then yes, power dissipation rating (what differentiates the 386-1 from the -2 and -4) would make a difference.  But for the small current-handling typical of distortions, I doubt that applies.

Actually, I built an overdrive pedal with a 386. Started with a 386N-1 and the decay was fizzy. Replaced it with a 386N-3 and the decay is smooth with no fizz.

[Mark Hammer]

So then, it is essentially the same relationship as changing one's dual op-amp in a TS build.  In other words, the tone may change in a preferred or nonpreferred direction, but the circuit will still "work" without risk to components.

[Perrow]

for the fizzle decay, stick a 100uf -220uf across the + -.....it worked for me! on the big bastard distortion...

And make sure you're not stuck with a dead or dying battery. Tested a Ruby (386 amp) with the power supply current limit turned way down and it wasn't beautiful. Turn it up and everything was OK.

[LucifersTrip]

Is there a difference between the L and N ?

The LM386L is just UTC's version (L is for lead-free plating).  I've used both, and they are pretty much identical.  If you are replacing an LM386N-4, however, you might need to go with that as it allows a higher supply voltage.

I forgot to reply...

I did eventual try the LM386N-1 to replace the LM386L, hoping it might remove some fizz....and it was a complete flop.  It was completely different  than the LM386L, only giving me a mild, muddy distortion instead of the fuzz I already had....very surprising.

In the end, a relatively small cap (3.3uF) across the power supply completely solved the fizz problem.