powering LED~~~Phase 90 mod

Started by Trev Flint, March 14, 2012, 07:17:33 PM

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Trev Flint

Hi,

I added an LED, 3pdt switch and 9 volt power jack to my '74 reissue Phase 90.. Everything works fine but I was not sure how to power the LED so I wanted to check with you guys to make sure what I did is ok.

I soldered one leg of the LED to the + tip of the power jack. This is the same spot that I soldered the circuit power wire to that was originally soldered to the battery clip. Does this sound ok? I do notice a subtle "pop" once and a while when I engage the Phase but it's no big deal.

Thanks kindly.

StevenJM

There should be a resistor between the power source and the LED.  Start with a 1k, go higher if you want the light to be dimmer.

Trev Flint

Thanks for the reply steven, yeah I did put a resistor on there.

flintstoned

If wire up the + from the center lug of the speed pot, the led will pulse in sync with it. Again, adjust the resistor size for brightness.
I forgot what I was gonna say here.

Trev Flint

That sounds cool Flintstoned. I might just try that.

smolder

do you have to add a 3dpt when putting in an led (74 script phase 90)? Not sure where to attach the negative wire from the LED? The only wiring diagrams I've found are drawn with a 3pdt.

Fender3D

Quote from: smolder on May 26, 2012, 01:42:12 PM
do you have to add a 3dpt when putting in an led (74 script phase 90)?

Only if you want true bypass, you may have a DPDT with the stock switching (3PDT will interfere with battery and jacks, though)

Quote from: smolder on May 26, 2012, 01:42:12 PM
Not sure where to attach the negative wire from the LED? The only wiring diagrams I've found are drawn with a 3pdt.

If you connect +V > switch lug1 then switch lug2 > resistor > Anode, cathode will go to GND
If you connect GND > switch lug1 then switch lug2 > resistor > cathode,  Anode will go to +V
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

smolder

#7
Thank you fender3d!


smolder

Does it need to be DPDT? The switch in mine has only two contacts. I know where to ground the LED, but I can not seem to find the point to put the positive lead that will work. This seems really simple, but I'm not having success.

Fender3D

Your MXR has a SPDT, just like most MXR pedals indeed.
This is what you should do if you don't wanna a 3PDT:



+V is the red wire, usually.
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

smolder

awesome graphic... thanks for that. Mine is a script '74 reissue, so the carling switch has only three contact points. I do have a carling SPDT here... I'll see if it fits.

Quote from: Fender3D on May 26, 2012, 07:44:53 PM
Your MXR has a SPDT, just like most MXR pedals indeed.
This is what you should do if you don't wanna a 3PDT:



+V is the red wire, usually.

Fender3D

Quote from: smolder on May 26, 2012, 08:10:41 PM
awesome graphic... thanks for that.

Thank you, but it's not me... I just googled "pedal dpdt switch"
"NOT FLAMMABLE" is not a challenge

smolder

damn... and I never found it. Anyway... I replaced the switch and wired as per the drawing and it works perfect. As always, the second one would go much quicker and  smoother ; ) thanks again.

Quote from: Fender3D on May 26, 2012, 09:19:23 PM
Quote from: smolder on May 26, 2012, 08:10:41 PM
awesome graphic... thanks for that.

Thank you, but it's not me... I just googled "pedal dpdt switch"

Trev Flint

reviving this because I am experiencing a problem with my true bypass/led mod to the phase 90. Now when I engage the effect I get a "pop" and if I tap the phaser enclosure anywhere it makes a noise as if the enclusure is now amplified. Does anyone have a diagram I can use for the truebypass/led mod so I can start over?

Thanks kindly