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Topic: Fix a Biyang Tri Reverb- waste of time? (Read 2454 times)
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Govmnt_Lacky
Posts: 3318
I'M ONLY GETTING CLEAN OUTPUT!!!!
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Does this mean IC6 is the clock?
I think that the 3201 chip is set up like the Spin Semi FV-1. Does not need an external clock. The clock and LFO are internal. Hope that helps.  P.S. Of course, I could be totally wrong about this but, that is how the datasheet read to me  |
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A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of ‘up to and including my life.’
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Paul Marossy
Posts: 12256
Just Another Guitarhead
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Sounds like that's the essence of the pedal. So why won't it switch to effect on mode?! What is the most likely culprit with it apparently being a conventional 3PDT switch based true bypass pedal? |
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anchovie
Posts: 1552
James H, UK
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What is the most likely culprit with it apparently being a conventional 3PDT switch based true bypass pedal?
Any of the above! An audio probe will give an easy check of opamps in the audio path and the output of the D/A converter. I guess you'd need a scope to see if the A/D and 3201 outputs are working. |
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- Guitar built from parts
- Random strings to make a full set
- Any pick that I can find on the floor
- Some pedals that I built
- My all-tube amp head that I built out of parts in my spares box
- Cheap Marshall 4x12 with better speakers fitted
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Govmnt_Lacky
Posts: 3318
I'M ONLY GETTING CLEAN OUTPUT!!!!
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I would start by making sure that the 3.3V regulator is functioning as this is what the processor, D/A, and A/D are powered by.
If it is anything like the FV-1, it REALLY, REALLY needs that voltage to be AT LEAST 3.3V to work well.
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A Veteran is someone who, at one point in his or her life, wrote a blank check made payable to The United States of America
for an amount of ‘up to and including my life.’
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Paul Marossy
Posts: 12256
Just Another Guitarhead
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I would start by making sure that the 3.3V regulator is functioning as this is what the processor, D/A, and A/D are powered by.
If it is anything like the FV-1, it REALLY, REALLY needs that voltage to be AT LEAST 3.3V to work well.
+1. Sounds like a good place to start. Easy to verify with a DMM. |
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seedlings
Posts: 311
Chad B. KC, MO
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Dirty dog! I went to check some voltages at lunch and the thing came on! While it was on I tapped around with the chopstick to see if it would glitch, but no!   CHAD |
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Paul Marossy
Posts: 12256
Just Another Guitarhead
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Doh! This is one of those weird intermittent problems that can drive you nutz!  |
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Quackzed
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you got gremlins...  |
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sudoku...? pffft!!!! VERO!
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Paul Marossy
Posts: 12256
Just Another Guitarhead
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Is that what an electron gremlin looks like?
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seedlings
Posts: 311
Chad B. KC, MO
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I didn't feed it after midnight, and I hummed that cool song it likes Re-boxed and it still works. Like I said, it's done this before, just not for this long. I did notice one thing that may or may not make any difference. The stereo input jack is wired so that a cord has to be inserted for it to power up on batteries and via DC adapter. When the pedal is powered, and then the input cord is inserted, it takes about one second for the LED and effect to come on. Is this suspicious at all to you? CHAD |
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Mark Hammer
Posts: 20150
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Not at all.
Typical wiring is that the input jack makes a ground connection for the power supply when a plug is inserted, and does not discriminate which sort of power supply it may be.
It may be the case that the delay for powering up is a reflection of a) a big power supply cap that takes a moment to charge up, or b) some routines that the digital side of things has to go through before signal can be passed.
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jubal81
Posts: 52
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I had the same problem and after about an hour of poking around I got it fixed. The transistor in the red square was toast. I replaced it with a BS170 and the pedal came back to life. I was sure I was just gonna have to chuck it. Whew!  |
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