Author Topic: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....  (Read 173541 times)

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eXCeSS

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #60 on: March 29, 2006, 04:14:03 PM »
Here's how the circuit would be connected to the jacks and LED+resistor:



In the above picture, the left jack is INPUT, the right jack is OUTPUT.
Notice how the LED is connected to the middle lugs. This helps to "isolate" the signals of the input and output but having the middle set of lugs between the two signals.

This is an advantage of using the 3PDT switches. Possible better isolation for signals and ease of use when connectiong an LED to indicate bypassed state.

The LED resistor will vary with your LED type. Start with 1K and lower the value for a brighter LED and raise the value for dimmer glow.

how do i do this without the led

coxter

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #61 on: April 13, 2006, 02:50:27 AM »
OMG, so sorry for the super noob question.
But just checking on the nature of theses SPDT,DPDT and 3PDT switches.
They are just can switch without drawing any power right? (like the passive pick-up switch on my Les paul yeah?)

So basically the power from the batteries is just used to power the led in the bypass box issn't it?

aron

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #62 on: April 15, 2006, 10:00:04 AM »
Yes, switches are passive like your Les Paul switch. The battery is to power the circuit and for the LED.

jcwillow777

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #63 on: April 20, 2006, 09:36:20 AM »
Aron:

I'm wiring a 3pdt switch into a Vox V-848 Wah pedal. The switch is working but I can't for the life of me figure out how to get the LED working. I have looked at the picture countess times and I can't get it. I have wired all of the terminals as in the picture and the pedal works, but no luck with the LED. The pedal was already true bypass, I just want an LED.

1. I have soldered a wire to the middle center terminal and to the top center terminal for the LED and I am using jumper cables to try to get the LED to light.

2. I have soldered a 470 ohm resistor to the negative (cathode) lead of the LED. I have jumpered the resistor the middle terminal of the 3pdt and the positive (anode) lead to the sleeve of the input jack.

3. I am powering up the pedal with a 9 volt adapter so I am NOT using the positive lead terminal for the 9 volt battery. I have jumpered the top middle terminal of the 3pdt to the positive post where the 9 volt battery would hook up. NO LIGHT! I have also tried touching the wire from this same terminal to the positive post where the 9 volt adapter is soldered into the circuit board.

This is really driving me crazy. What am I doing wrong???

Greg

jcwillow777

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #64 on: April 20, 2006, 02:22:36 PM »
I forgot to mention in my earlier post I hooked a jumper from the ring to the negative posdt for where the battery should go also.

I tired hooking up a 9 volt battery to see if I could at least get the LED to light up. I put the LED/resistor on the negative and positive connections where the 9 volt adapter hooks into the circuit board and the LED lit up. I took the 9 volt battery out and hooked up the adapter - the LED would not light. I don't get it?  ???

aron

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #65 on: April 20, 2006, 04:57:53 PM »
OK, since you are using jumpers, just try this:



Connect the positive of the battery to where indicated and the negative to ground and see if the LED lights up.

jcwillow777

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #66 on: April 20, 2006, 06:24:31 PM »
I plugged the 9 volt battery into the wah adn put a cord in the input jack, then I jumpered to the place that the 9 volt taps into the circuit board and grounded the other end at the ground on the other ground connectionis to the circuit board and the ground at where the 9 volt adapter plugs into the the circuit board and the LED lights up.

I can't get it to light with the adapter plugged in and no battery hooked up.

aron

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #67 on: April 20, 2006, 08:16:23 PM »
Quote
I can't get it to light with the adapter plugged in and no battery hooked up.

Then it's a simple matter of 9V not getting to where it's supposed to be or ground not being connected.

Use your meter and test for both possibilities.

jcwillow777

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #68 on: April 20, 2006, 09:07:40 PM »
Thanks for your input. I'm just a novice, I have a multi-meter but I'm really not sure how to trace it down.  I guess I'll just live with out an LED. I'm over my head, at least the pedal is still working. I was hoping is wasn't going to be this difficult.

Dannycasio

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #69 on: May 18, 2006, 02:54:58 PM »
Hi everyone, I'm new to all this and am still trying to get my head around the 3pdt switch.

I'm making an A/B type box but with 2 ins and 2 outs. The parts have arrived but I'm still unsure how to wire this or whether it's even possible  :-\

The parts I have are:

1 x Hammond 1590B
2 x Stereo Input Jacks
2 x Output Jacks
4 x LEDs
1 x DC Power Jack
1 x Battery Clip
2 x 3pdt switch

I want the pedal to work so that only 1 input and 1 output work at any one time (not 2 in's and 1 out like an a/b/y box). I hope that makes sense.

Please can someone show me how I should wire the 2 switches? I'd also like to connect the 4 LEDs to the 3pdt switches so that I know which in/out is selected.
There are lots of pictures explaining the standard True Bypass operation of the 3pdt switch but none of an application like this. Maybe I'm just being blind.

Regards

Daniel

coxter

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #70 on: May 18, 2006, 11:35:02 PM »
I don't understand what you're trying to build actually... hehe. Can you explain the kind of routing you would like to achieve ?

Dannycasio

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #71 on: May 19, 2006, 09:22:24 AM »
I don't understand what you're trying to build actually... hehe. Can you explain the kind of routing you would like to achieve ?

Hi Coxter,

I want a signal switching pedal with 2 inputs, so I can plug a guitar in one and a microphone in the other and switch between the two instruments (input A or input B). From here the signal will go to one of two outputs which will be controlled by another switch (output A or output B).

Is this possible? How do I wire the 3pdt switches?

Daniel

vikingtyty

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #72 on: June 08, 2006, 08:23:21 PM »


alright, so... sorry for the dumb question, but:

i solder all the components to the board, then solder the wires to the spots on that picture? correct?

oh and is this pedal true bypass? won't suck any tone?

edit - also... how do i go about putting it IN the box? i can't seem to find that anywhere, and that's my main problem.
« Last Edit: June 08, 2006, 08:48:01 PM by vikingtyty »

Breke

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #73 on: June 09, 2006, 04:11:45 AM »
Yep, If you wire it as is suggested it should be a true bypass. Mind, you don't always have to wire to the EXACT spots where the wires go on the picture, as long as it's connected to the right components.
When it comes to fitting it into to box, you might find that's one of the most tricky parts:). It facilitates if you have a box that's a bit larger than you actually need the first times, for example a Hammond 1590BB seized one where a Hammond 1590B would actually suffice. Do as much of the wiring as you can beforehand so can just fit it into place without having to solder it inside the box (You will probably have to solder the LED on place though). Keep the wires relatively short, you might think long wires makes it easier, but when they are longer than necessary they take up lots of space. Depending on the seize of the circuit and the room available in the the box, you may either fix it to the walls with Velcro, some screws, glue or something else that works, or you can just have it loose in the box suspended by the wires. Just make sure you insulate the inner walls with some tape or something where the circuit might touch, to prevent a short.
There aren't really any right or wrong, only ways to make it more or less neat. Just use some tender violence and it will work out fine:)

vikingtyty

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #74 on: June 09, 2006, 03:32:37 PM »
so i just put something underneath the circuit?

also, i saw people talking about a power supply other than a battery, how would i go about wiring that in? i'd rather plug it into the wall than use a battery.

kenny404

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #75 on: June 16, 2006, 12:56:00 AM »
hey this is a really noobish question but does it really matter what kinda switch you use because i bought a spst switch from radio shack

aron

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #76 on: June 16, 2006, 02:12:47 PM »
Yes, you need a DPDT switch minimum for true bypass. If you use a DPDT ignore the LED lug connections.

Roobin

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #77 on: June 16, 2006, 02:19:42 PM »
Sorry, I actually had a realy cool longish post, and it timed out  :'(
Yes, as Aron said, you do need a DPDT as a minimum. The SPST you have there will only be in 2 poistions: in, completeing the circuit, or out, cutting the circuit. FOr DIY, you need a switch that can switch and input between 2 paths - the SPDT. You need 2 of these, one on the input to the FX, one on the output, so that you can construct 2 paths: FX, or switching both, normal.

Have a read at geofex.com on the switching articles.

buzzo83

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #78 on: July 23, 2006, 12:05:32 AM »
question! Would you mount the 1K resistor on the board, or do it another way???? :icon_question:

aron

Re: 4: Switches/Bypass/Etc....
« Reply #79 on: July 23, 2006, 12:31:27 AM »
Good question. I usually mount it off the switch and use heat shrink on it to make it a little stronger.  Heck, sometimes it's hanging off the LED - along with heat shrink.