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Topic: My home-made Beavis Board! (Read 1258 times)
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mwynwood
Posts: 138
Marcus - Australia
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Hi everyone, I just had to share, because I'm pretty excited about it... my home-made Beavis Board! haha I know it's probably not that exciting... but it represents the next step of my journey along the path of 'DIY Guitar Effects' addiction... mourn for me...    The whole thing cost about $20 |
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Tony Forestiere
Posts: 744
"F" and a lot of vowels
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Very tidy work.  That should get the creative juices flowing. |
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Duct tape is like the Force. It has a light side and a dark side, and it holds the universe together. Carl Zwanzig
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Perrow
Posts: 1553
Pelle T
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Got to build me one of those.
Nice work.
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Bill Mountain
Posts: 388
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That looks sweet. I really need to make one of these. My bread board is a rats nest before I even start plugging in components!
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gtr2
Posts: 18
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cool! Better start planning for an additional breadboard on that. They fill up fast  Josh |
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davent
Posts: 1457
dave c. -Hammer Mtn. ON
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Like your use of the speaker terminals, great idea!
dave
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"Turn it up to 10 and rip off the knob."- Patterson Hood
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J0K3RX
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Very nice! I see somebody is a Radio Shack junkie besides myself  |
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If it sounds good, then it is good...
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deadastronaut
Posts: 7081
Rob H. LONDON
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sound to light?....  cool, but i'd need 4-5 of these.... i use a 3pdt toggle for true bypass with led...they are really cheap...worth it to hear 'exactly' what your fx will be like...any pop etc... |
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« Last Edit: May 18, 2012, 02:32:09 AM by deadastronaut »
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Jdansti
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Wow! You're breadboard is longer than mine! I have breadboard envy!
Seriously- nice job. That will take you a long way. I noticed a couple of things in your photos. First, you might want to install a fuse holder on your black box and use a fuse that's rated less than your PS's maximum current. Wire in inline with the positive side of your power jack. This will protect your PS should you accidentally cause a short on your breadboard.
Also, is that a small incandescent bulb across your power jack or an LED? If it is an LED, you'll need a resistor in line with it to limit the current.
Good luck and have fun with it!
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Builds: Gaines Noise Gate, Valve Caster, Tillman Preamp, Dynamic Overhype, Solstice, Noisy Cricket, Umble, Engineer's Thumb, Pulsinator tremolo, Scuba Muff, iRig clone.
Repairs: Fender Ultra Chorus Amp, Peavey Century Bass Amp, Sony HR-GP5, Dynaco ST-35
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mwynwood
Posts: 138
Marcus - Australia
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Like your use of the speaker terminals, great idea!
Thanks Dave, I had the idea when browsing the electronics shop... sound to light?.... cool, but i'd need 4-5 of these.... i use a 3pdt toggle for true bypass with led...they are really cheap...worth it to hear 'exactly' what your fx will be like...any pop etc... haha yeah "sound to light" well spotted!  great idea about the 3PDT, I might just do that! Wow! You're breadboard is longer than mine! I have breadboard envy!
Seriously- nice job. That will take you a long way. I noticed a couple of things in your photos. First, you might want to install a fuse holder on your black box and use a fuse that's rated less than your PS's maximum current. Wire in inline with the positive side of your power jack. This will protect your PS should you accidentally cause a short on your breadboard.
Also, is that a small incandescent bulb across your power jack or an LED? If it is an LED, you'll need a resistor in line with it to limit the current.
Good luck and have fun with it!
Excellent idea about the fuse! I mostly use a normal Boss power supply - 1.5A or 200mA or something like that. What sort of fuse would I use? And yeah, that's a little incandescent bulb I had laying around. Works well. |
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Jdansti
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Re: the fuse, hopefully I haven't recommended something for which I can't give you the right answer! Here's what I know: Normally, fuses are used to protect the house wiring (i.e., prevent burning down the house  ); however in this case, we also want to protect the battery or PS from an accidental short circuit on the breadboard. Several things to consider are wire size, maximum load, and the output current rating of the PS. -Most circuits you are going build draw less than 100mA. -If you are using the Boss PSA-120S, its output current is rated at 500mA. -I assume that you are using wire somewhere around 20-24AWG. Given the above, my opinion is that a 250-400mA fuse would protect the PS and wire (assuming 500mA output rating and 20-24AWG wire) without constantly blowing due to the current draw of your circuits. Perhaps R.G. or PRR will review my suggetion and give us their expert opinion. |
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Builds: Gaines Noise Gate, Valve Caster, Tillman Preamp, Dynamic Overhype, Solstice, Noisy Cricket, Umble, Engineer's Thumb, Pulsinator tremolo, Scuba Muff, iRig clone.
Repairs: Fender Ultra Chorus Amp, Peavey Century Bass Amp, Sony HR-GP5, Dynaco ST-35
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ambulancevoice
Posts: 1804
Alex P - Australia
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someones been to jaycar  i work for jaycar so i immediately recognised all those parts |
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Open Your Mouth, Heres Your Money
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