Tools and Methods for finding center line on Stompboxes

[YouAre]

Hey Guys,

OK, assume we have a stead hand with a drill, or a drill press. Also assume we have a perfect drill template done on a computer.

So how do we place and align the printed out template? Drawing a cross hair on the center of the template is easy enough, but how do we do it on the pedal itself? Do you guys have a precise method of doing that? Maybe some kind of vice that has to moveable "arms" that go towards and away from a center notch? I imagine we can use that to draw a center line.

Thanks for the help!

[.Mike]

Here's what I do. There are probably better methods.

I take a carpenters square, and place it along the side of the enclosure. I then take a precision ruler, and set it along the square so it is lined up perfectly. I then eye up the total measurement-- let's say it's about 3.6 inches. I then put a mark close, but not exactly where I think the center is, let's say 1.5 inches. Then, I swap the measuring setup to the other side of the enclosure, and measure to my mark. Let's say it's 2.14 inches. That makes the total 1.5 + 2.14 = 3.64. Make another mark at 1.82, and confirm it is the center from the other side. Repeat for another mark, and connect the dots. Repeat everything for the other direction, and you have your center mark.

It works, but I really hope there's a better way... heh!

Mike

[CodeMonk]

Here's what I do. There are probably better methods.

I take a carpenters square, and place it along the side of the enclosure. I then take a precision ruler, and set it along the square so it is lined up perfectly. I then eye up the total measurement-- let's say it's about 3.6 inches. I then put a mark close, but not exactly where I think the center is, let's say 1.5 inches. Then, I swap the measuring setup to the other side of the enclosure, and measure to my mark. Let's say it's 2.14 inches. That makes the total 1.5 + 2.14 = 3.64. Make another mark at 1.82, and confirm it is the center from the other side. Repeat for another mark, and connect the dots. Repeat everything for the other direction, and you have your center mark.

It works, but I really hope there's a better way... heh!

Mike

That's my method as well.

[Gurner]

I don't make stompboxes, but here's how I'd likely approach getting holes drilled in the right places...

1. Print out your drilling template (including a line around the perimeter of the stomp box itself on the drilling template - actually just less)
2. Cut out along the perimeter of your drilling template.
4. Put some strips of sellotape on each of the sides of the template
5. Apply some water to the stompbox top (not much)
6. now place the template & align it by eye (the water is to provide some 'resistance' as you align so it doesn't slide about too easily)
7. Once aligned fix down the sellotape to the enclosure
8. Centre punch the hole centres.
9. Use a pilot drill
10. Drill.

the other quick way of finding centre...is to use a digital caliper - measure the width of your box with the caliper, divide the dimension by two & set the caliper to this, lock it off & scribe with the caliper. Do the same for the length. You end up with the exact centre of your box (or have I not understoood the question right?)

[Derringer]

I have and have used both of these
i think I  prefer the triangle style because you get a better grip on the factory edges

both are useful though, sometimes the top style works better in places that the triangle style can't

practice your math, use a calculator if you need to
cover the box with some wide masking tape and pencil in where you think you want to drill
look at it when you're done marking it up and see if it looks right
if not, erase and do it again
practice makes perfect

when you find what you want, take a notebook and write down what measurements you used
draw a sketch of the layout etc. in case you want to use that particular layout again
it'll save you time

[John Lyons]

I use a roofing square and one of these and do just about what Mike does.
( reverse the scribe point to the other side as I don't use it)
Mine is about 50 years old as well. 



Marking center by eye and then using the tool above to make a symmetrical mark on the other side
gets me a center line. One thing that also works well is to measure side to side. Then tilt your ruller to get to
an even number. Then half of that is your center. Example. width is 2.27" Round up to three and make a mark
at 1.5 and there you have it.

I also drill a perfectly measured box with 1/16" pilot holes. Take a thin material like sheet metal and place
the box on it with wood strips as a border. Epoxy or screw down the strips, drill through the box into the sheet metal and
you have a template. Place the template over a bare box and you have a drilling guide. You can get 3-4 hole patterns
with this setup. I color code them to keep it straight.

[Jdansti]

Maybe not the most precise or quickest method, but I use a ruler with mm markings and measure the width, divide by 2, and use that number for the center measurement.  I mark the center in 3 places and tie the three dots together. I make a final check of the line in several places. Rotate the box 90 deg and repeat. The center is where the two lines cross.

[joegagan]

Example. width is 2.27" Round up to three and make a mark
at 1.5 and there you have it.

uh, out here in new mexico we would round up to 2.30 and come up with figure 1.15 for half. must be different math out here.

[Earthscum]

I have mastered this method:

1. Eyeball your center, light pencil mark.
2.  Measure the center, another light mark.
3. Line up the template.
4. Comprehend the reality that something is way off.
5. Measure again.
6. Go back to step 2 and repeat as unnecessarily as possible until proper alignment is achieved.
7. Punch centers.
8. Swear and walk away.
9. Go back to step 4.
10. Deal with excessive pilot holes and center punch dimples.

It goes deeply on my belief that in order to fix something to the best of your ability, you must know how to break it to the best of your ability.


Honestly, the methods here all work... I like the cutout and line it up method, honestly. If you're laying out graphics on a computer to print, drop in your center punch marks, and just take extra care when you're drilling (depending on the graphics). I do my drilling after graphics, which is kind of backwards, but... I find it easier that way. When you drill, just pay attention to what the pilot hole and each larger bit does as it cuts through the paint or graphics. This will give you a feel of how to get the cleanest cut through the graphic layer on your final size. Stomp switch holes are the hardest to keep edge integrity because of the size. Anyways, just a little idea rant.

[John Lyons]

8. Swear and walk away.

Goes without saying! 

[kodiakklub]

like youare mentioned, i use an autocad template with crosshairs. i then use a combo square like most others. you gotta spend the money and get a good one like starett. gonna run you upwards of $100 bucks, but it will be worth it. the cheap ones at lowes or homecheapo very easily get out of square or never stay perfectly square in the first place. remember, its not a carpenters square or a framing square, but a combination square which is the first pic that derringer posted. sometimes referred to as a machinists square but that can also mean something else. oh and a good experienced set of eyeballs.

[davent]

Find the center of each of the bottom edges of the enclosure, use a small engineers square to run a line from each of those points up the side to the enclosure face.

My paper drill template wraps around the entire enclosure and has the center lines for N/S & E/W across it. Use a paper punch to knock out a section of the center line on each of the four sides of the template. You can now find the center lines you drew on the sides of the enclosure and easily line up the paper templates center lines with the enclosure center lines and attach the template to the enclosure. Center punch and drill away! Start small, 1/16",  and step your way to the final size you need. On this one you can see i've even extended the C/L's and added peek-a-boo holes on the enclosure top, way overkill!



These days i don't bother measuring anything. The paper drill templates are accurate enough that if i fold the flaps that end up wrapped inside the enclosure, correctly,  everything aligns as well as you could ask for.

dave

[YouAre]

Hmm, a combination square. I think I can use a setup similar to this: Won't give me an exact center line right away, but it can with some clever geometry.

I think I may pick up a vice as well, cause you guys have given me some great ideas. I'm gonna hash them out, and report back after trying them first.

To Kodiak...damn. You're going to make me spend hundreds on starett equipment now! It seems like they may have many tools that will help me do this!

Thank you all so much!

[defaced]

Dial calipers to measure the width, divide that in half and set the calipers to that number, lock the head in place, and then committing the cardinal sin of machining, using the tips of them as a scribe.  I usually use sharpie as a layout fluid so I don't have to dig into the metal hard at all. 

[Pyr0]

I use Dave's template method too.
I use Corel Draw to do my layouts, with some templates for common items like pots, switches, jacks etc, this way I can be sure everything will fit.
Then I just print it out and wrap it around the enclosure, line it up by eye, tape it, and use a center punch to mark all drill holes.

This is for a fuzz factory

[deadastronaut]

i use my etching toner image (made in inkscape using a box template)

i include dots for the drill holes...etch n done!..

[Processaurus]

Whatever the method for calculating the distance to the middle, you can measure and mark from both sides, and the center will be right in between the two marks.

You know, we use 1590 boxes so universally, it might be worth making a special jig to mark the middles.

[R O Tiree]

You know, we use 1590 boxes so universally, it might be worth making a special jig to mark the middles.

That's kind of what I do.  I invested in a stamp-making kit some years ago...  Design your layout in Paintshop Pro (or similar), print a negative image on acetate and then expose the pad-pack to light from an ordinary 60W incandescent bulb through the acetate (CFC bulbs won't work!).  Everywhere light gets through, the pad resin polymerises.  Soak the pad in the developing solution (came with the kit), rinse and allow to air dry.  Cut to size and then stick it to an old 1590 box lid.  Ink the pad, invert the 1590 box and place it over the one you want to put the graphics on.  Press down and there ya go - perfectly centered graphics, drill centres and diameters all marked out for you.

Of course, if you're just doing one-offs, then this is NOT the way to go, as the resin packs are quite expensive.  Still quite useful for marking "IN", "OUT" jacks and "9V DC", for example, even for one-offs.  For small production runs, though, they're golden.  For large production runs, farm it out, I guess... unless you really enjoy the smell of paint?

[bluetubes]

Here is a simple way to find a center line of anything with parallel sides.

measure across on a diagonal (anywhere on the box...doesn't have to be corner to corner) and line the ruler or tape to a whole number.  Split that number in half on the tape and that's your center.