man, tc electronics ....nova delay crapped out AGAIN.

Started by pinkjimiphoton, September 25, 2012, 11:37:55 AM

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pinkjimiphoton

man, i think we all need to call them on this shit.
i see a LOT of broken tc stuff lately...but only the modern crap.
the ORIGINAL danish built stuff is awesome and worth the price..
this wave soldered, unrepairable SMD crap they're hawking these days may as well be made by freekin' zoom.
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"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
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jackostrato

yeah, it sucks. the echoplex is great (i assume you mean the original tape echo?) and so is the fulltone tape echo. they're both a little too bulky for nyc. i need a fairly compact and portable rig that i can throw in cabs and even travel on the subway with. i'm thinking eventide or pigtronix for my looping board (i like the multitap thing for that) and when the nova delay completely craps out, maybe i'll get a t-rex.

and you're right about the old stuff. i still have an old, late 80s booster/distortion on the looper board that's still solid as a rock.

pinkjimiphoton

bulky AND weighs a ton.

and needs maintenance.

that's the only reason the damn nova delay is on my board...convenience.

but honestly, i use my rebote a LOT more....cuz it sounds more like a plex.
  • SUPPORTER
"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr

Johanaz

Ok, I got a reply from the TC support team.

As they point out; with thousands of units shipped it's inevitable that some units occationally break down.
You can argue that with 5000 units sold and 5 units failing after a few years, that still makes a 99.9% succes rate.

I'm gonna get my Repeater repaired, and hopefully it won't cost more than the price of a good used one.

pinkjimiphoton

seems awful funny that all 5 guys seem to know each other.  :icon_eek:

i bet there's a much higher failure rate, but most people just assume they screwed it up and got another.

but they do have a point. hope it all works out for you!  :icon_mrgreen:
  • SUPPORTER
"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr

oldschoolanalog

Quote from: pinkjimiphoton on October 15, 2012, 10:17:05 AM
seems awful funny that all 5 guys seem to know each other.  :icon_eek:
+1. Very "funny".
Quotebut they do have a point.
A very weak point. BOSS probably outsells tc 10-1 (probably way more). How many BOSS products have crapped out on you?
Say what you want about their product but BOSS evidently has a much firmer grasp on the concept of "quality control".
Most of the BOSS problems I see are from people trying to do mods to them.
Mystery lounge. No tables, chairs or waiters here. In fact, we're all quite alone.

pinkjimiphoton

the ONLY boss problems i have ever seen are

improper power supply blowing them up

dirty switches

dead memory batteries

physical abuse.

i have boss pedals that are over 30 years old, and STILL going strong with absolutely zero issues.

tc needs to pull it's head out of it's ass.

i DO see their point, but...it's as you say, a weak one dave.

good to see ya on the boards..."fight club" just ain't the same.
;)
  • SUPPORTER
"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr

Ronan

The only Boss failures I can remember seeing is dry joints on the DC socket, a result of "wear and tear". I have 2 Boss pedals from the early 80's, bought new, that is, 30 years old, they still work, and have NEVER been repaired. Nothing in the whole music industry is as reliable as a Boss pedal, except for certain brands of speakers and a tuning fork tuned to E.  :icon_wink:

R O Tiree

There's been quite a few DD-2s and DD-3s in recent years that have failed because of dead electrolytic caps - 9V pedal and they put 10V-rated caps in there... you used to see them on eBay all the time for peanuts.  Replace the caps, sell them on at a mahoosive profit 8)
...you fritter and waste the hours in an off-hand way...

Ronan

DD-2 and BF-2 is the 2 pedals I have. I always ran them on a regulated power supply, LM317-based for most of their life. If they ever play up, thanks for the heads up!

pinkjimiphoton

that's funny, i buy dead crap on ebay all the time and fix it for resale.
it feeds my solder addiction. ;)
  • SUPPORTER
"When the power of love overcomes the love of power the world will know peace."
Slava Ukraini!
"try whacking the bejesus outta it and see if it works again"....
~Jack Darr

jackostrato

update on the strymon timeline:

i had boxed it up to send back and noticed a tiny scratch that i'd put on the side of the housing. i figured that strymon might not take it back w.o. a restock fee so decided to ebay it off as people are getting basically list price for even slightly used units (even some above list which i just don't get). well, in the meantime i had a few gigs that i needed a ddl for and as i had none that worked besides my diamond analog which is amazing for certain things but not this thing (it's primarily looping stuff and i use a lot of timed, pulse-y stuff like a murf, a boss slicer, and delays) so i figured i'd "tough it out" with the strymon for a few gigs till i could sell it and buy something else. i started out still kinda hating the sound and decided to poke around in the parameters and noticed the buffer was on. i switched it off and the sound completely opened up. it's warm, tight and really lovely. the learning curve is a bit steep (not neurosurgery but not a dd3 either) and it does a million different things. for this particular application it's really stellar. my thought is that for most live band things it's likely way-overkill and i want to check out that t-rex ddl with the mod control for my "band" board although the dTape feature (a scaled down el capistan) sounds really great and the el cap is probably a good choice, too.

that's it, wanted to clear that up. still, no mo tc, ever again.

neilslade

I had exactly the same problem- single green light, no numeral LCD.  Opened up the unit, as described, removed the memory chip, and replaced-  IT WORKED.

Note, the memory chip is in the CENTER of a holder, which is light brown in color. Do NOT try to remove the light brown surround around the chip. Use a VERY SMALL eyeglass screwdriver tip
to lift up the corner of the black memory chip only. Pull off completely, then carefully replace.

The screws on the case are all TORX T-10 size screws, on the outside (which can be removed with a small metric allen key), and silver T-10 screws on the inside. This silver screws can't be removed with any standard hex keys, use a Torx T-10.

neilslade

rockhorst

@Neilslade: Welcome to the Board. You just did a necrobump ;)
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