So I tried to solder in my first 18-pinner today, and failed miserably. Is masking tape the best thing to keep it in place?
I solder in the sockets before anything else.
Then just solder two of the corner sockets first.
Re-flow if needed to get it flat.
I put resistors in first...install them then flip over the board and tape down the edges so everything is tightly in place...sockets would be the next highest part...so pretty much go in that order....just kind of developed this myself but it makes sense to me.
I start with the smallest components and then get bigger. Put the component in, cover with a piece of foam then turn the whole lot over and apply pressure to the board while soldering in the component. Usually holds everything in place. Most foam will work but the softer it is, the easier it will mould round each item. It's actually possible to place multiple components before turning over for soldering though I've never had the courage to do a whole board.
QuoteSo I tried to solder in my first 18-pinner today, and failed miserably. Is masking tape the best thing to keep it in place?
What problems did you have? Nothing wrong with tape, as long as you remove it right away. I use electrical tape, which despite its gooey crapiness, works well if you only use for a few moments at a time. It peels off cleanly and you can reuse the same piece for all of the board's sockets. Maybe your masking tape is old or your board dirty? Do you have a set of 'helping hands'?:
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/public/cb7tX62gYm0DackjlM7FHWGbJrLveljWl98bwhT9IjxVHsUwntH1zfnNbyWG0BUy2_A1ePDx-l_wyBkByK358LnLZ0MseZQqpGJaZoBKA9ZVpWpa1f9SlpZZ_IDZ-hLMEzh-vBZWQtRK=s220-c)
I've used masking tape. You might be able to bend a few of the little socket legs enough to hold it in place, but tape is much easier.
I always place the socket in and bend the leads on two corners to make it stay flush while soldering. It works for both kinds of sockets, just not as easy with machined style sockets. It has never failed me.
A small dab of hot glue , works to hold in tricky components , easily removed later ...
Why not put a dot of double sided foam tape or a dab of gooey goo on the bottom of the socket, insert the socket, and leave it there? Early SMT processes put a dot of epoxy under each part, let it cure, then soldered. That's a bit much, but any kind of non-conductive goo will hold it in place for a bit. I've used a commercial sticky goo similar to "Museum Gel", but less expensive for mine. A small can goes forever, as only tiny dots are needed.
Quote from: CodeMonk on December 11, 2012, 12:57:22 AM
I solder in the sockets before anything else.
Then just solder two of the corner sockets first.
Re-flow if needed to get it flat.
This. I do all sockets like this, then go back in and solder the rest of the pins.
I drill the pcb holes only slightly bigger then the leads going through and friction is enough to hold the socket in place, flip it over and solder. (friction and less then perfect drill hole alignment) #71 drill bit is big enough to cover most of the leads on the components i use in pedals, #65 for 1N400X diodes and pads for soldering in 22awg wire.
dave
just use the blue painters masking tape..it wont leave any sticky residue and I use it to hold everything flat against the board(perf)
I place all my sockets in the board first, before any other components. Then I put a piece of cardboard (ie. left over from a pad of paper) on top, flip it over and set it down on my bench. Then I put a couple of hand tools around it to keep it from moving and solder just one or two pins for each socket. Then I pick it up, make sure everything is lined up properly, put it in my holder, and solder all the other pins.
~ Charlie
It's pretty low tech but I just put a small strip of electical tape on them and flip the board over. Some fall out so I solder what I can and just do it again.
I just solder two pins on opposite corners. Flip over the board and make sure they look good, adjust if necessary and then solder the rest of the pins. On some commercially made plated thru-hole PCBs I was supplied for the companies I built for from 2008-2010, the opamp socket snapped into the board and stayed there, making it very easy to solder.
> bend the leads on two corners
> pcb holes only slightly bigger ... friction
+2
I populate the board with all components that have a similar height. Then I cover them with a piece of foam rubber, that has a similar size as the pcb. I clamp both parts together with clothespins, alligator clips or small clamps like these:
http://www.schnapp2000.de/images/produkte/i20/200214501-1.jpg
Now I cut all legs and then solder all parts in one go. Saves a lot of time...
Another tip when soldering sockets.
Once you get it set, don't go soldering like sockets 1, 2, 3, 4, etc.
Like for an 8 pin, solder 1, 5 to set it.
Then do 4, 8, 2, 6, 3, 7 (as an example)
Alternate so you give the last pin area soldered time to cool a bit before going back to that area.