Noob here. First time using the DIYLC. Did I make this vero layout of the sili fuzz correctly?
(http://www.home-wrecker.com/sili-face.png)
(http://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii594/bluesguitar65/silifuzz_zpsbe40096e.jpg)
Layout works for my eyes. On an esthetic note, I would try to shorten the leads on your C5 and C2.
Using axials would be fine, or if you're set on using radials add the necessary jumper(s) and/or cut(s). Keeping the leads short on something as "top heavy" as a radial cap will help reduce any mechanical stress on the solder joints if the pedal gets knocked around.
Nice job on the layout.
The layout looks good, but according to the schematic R4 should be 4k7, not 47k. Good luck!
Quote from: digi2t on March 06, 2013, 11:00:28 PM
Layout works for my eyes. On an esthetic note, I would try to shorten the leads on your C5 and C2.
Using axials would be fine, or if you're set on using radials add the necessary jumper(s) and/or cut(s). Keeping the leads short on something as "top heavy" as a radial cap will help reduce any mechanical stress on the solder joints if the pedal gets knocked around.
Nice job on the layout.
Thank you so much for the advice. I guess I should now stock up on axial caps....to bad tayda does not carry them.
Quote from: Keppy on March 06, 2013, 11:12:21 PM
The layout looks good, but according to the schematic R4 should be 4k7, not 47k. Good luck!
Good eye.. I knew I would overlook something like that. Thanks!
Ok.... re did the vero layout with the great suggestions above...
(http://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii594/bluesguitar65/silifuzz_zpsad9ca90b.jpg)
Man, I can see this pedal making stuff to be an addiction that will keep me in my garage for days :)
I updated it again, made the board smaller. How's this?
(http://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii594/bluesguitar65/silifuzzverorev2_zpsad6d99c2.jpg)
Your longer jumper should go to row F, not row D. Otherwise good!
Quote from: Keppy on March 06, 2013, 11:36:24 PM
Your longer jumper should go to row F, not row D. Otherwise good!
Thanks!! Good eye!!
OK, I'm doing this visually, so take this with a grain of salt....
Reading the coordinates as side/top;
-Move C5 negative to C/B
-Move all your components to the left 1 hole
-Move C3 to the right 4 places to H
-Add cut to C/D
-Add jumper from ground rail to C/C
-Use an inline upright trimmer in A/L, B/L, C/L holes, and you can lose the short jumper by simply bending the upper pin to short to the center pole with solder.
This should shorten your board by 3 holes overall. I think. :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: digi2t on March 07, 2013, 12:03:29 AM
OK, I'm doing this visually, so take this with a grain of salt....
Reading the coordinates as side/top;
-Move C5 negative to C/B
-Move all your components to the left 1 hole
-Move C3 to the right 4 places to H
-Add cut to C/D
-Add jumper from ground rail to C/C
-Use an inline upright trimmer in A/L, B/L, C/L holes, and you can lose the short jumper by simply bending the upper pin to short to the center pole with solder.
This should shorten your board by 3 holes overall. I think. :icon_mrgreen:
Thanks!! I'll give that a try.
Ok...So here is the rev 3, much smaller. May fit in a 1590A by this time. Thanks digl2t
(http://i1261.photobucket.com/albums/ii594/bluesguitar65/silifuzzverorev3_zpsfb66f046.jpg)
Dont forget fixing holes otherwise it will be floating in mid air :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: tonyharker on March 07, 2013, 04:56:16 AM
Dont forget fixing holes otherwise it will be floating in mid air :icon_biggrin:
Slight sacrifice in size, but two sturdy mounting holes in return. Use a ground wire from one of the jacks for the volume pot;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Siliface_zps4ec9c39a.jpg)
3mm x 12mm screws, with plastic stand-off, and Nylok nuts is what I use. Remove a 3 x 3 section of copper strips in the corners as shown, to be sure that you don't have any grounding issues.
Use the trimmer pins to create the jump underneath the trimmer.