Hiya!
I'm a bass player who's quite into effects, and I've taken the leap to build my own effects! I have basic knowledge of electronics (following a course, I know about resistors, capacitors, I know how to solder, sort of, know about the flow of current and so on), but this is my first electronic project ever, so I might be in way over my head...
I ordered a simple bass boost kit from Musikding as a first build. I've gathered my components and understand everything except for a couple of things...
I have a 3-pin inline socket, which is not on my schematic... what do I do with that? I'm thinking soldering it to the "ground" section, and then putting in the leads for... the jacks and the 3PDT switch?
The place where the capacitors should go all have 3 holes, for only 2 leads... do I just use the outer holes for the leads?
That's it, for now :-) I'm sure many more questions will come, if you'll allow me to ask them!
Thanks in advance for the info and your patience with this absolute beginner!
grtz,
Spiffmeister
3 pin inline socket?...
i guess you mean a 3pdt footswitch?...
if so you will want ''off board wiring 5'' layout ok.
http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=76
3 holes for caps?..weird.
pic?..
welcome btw.. ;)
I had a look at the parts list, and the layout of the "Das Lineal" kit and I'm pretty sure the 3-pin inline socket is for the transistor. You solder this socket where it says "T1" instead of soldering the transistor there.
Then you simply insert the transistor into the sockets (make sure you insert it correctly, note the pinout of the transistor).
That way if you ever need to replace the transistor, either because the first one is defective or if you want to try another value (ex. 2N3904 instead of 2N5088) then it's easy since it's socketed and not soldered.
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 28, 2013, 01:02:57 PM
3 pin inline socket?...
i guess you mean a 3pdt footswitch?...
if so you will want ''off board wiring 5'' layout ok.
http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=76
3 holes for caps?..weird.
pic?..
welcome btw.. ;)
Socket could be for a transistor/FET. Three pads for the caps could be to use either radial or axial electrolytics. Just guessing.
Hi guys!
It might be for the transistor, I think you're right there Hemmel. Cool feature then, handy for replacing the transistor indeed.
I'll try and get soms pics of the PCB tomorrow concerning the 3 holes for the capacitors.
Thanks for the welcome and the quick replies btw! :-) I'm still unsure of what the + and - of the components are and in which direction to place them. But I'll try and figure it out for myself first :-) I should know this!
BTW, it's the "Molie" kit :-)
Quote from: Tony Forestiere on October 28, 2013, 01:12:42 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on October 28, 2013, 01:02:57 PM
3 pin inline socket?...
i guess you mean a 3pdt footswitch?...
if so you will want ''off board wiring 5'' layout ok.
http://www.tonepad.com/getFile.asp?id=76
3 holes for caps?..weird.
pic?..
welcome btw.. ;)
Socket could be for a transistor/FET. Three pads for the caps could be to use either radial or axial electrolytics. Just guessing.
yep, realised that after posting...i'll slap myself now.. ;D
Welcome to the forum1
hi guys!
just went and bought my soldering station (with ability to set the temperature, my first soldering iron didnt have that function) and multimeter and some other tools.
Now, i'm still not sure on how to solder the capacitors, so here's a pic of what I'm talking about. it's C1 and C5 i dont understand. So there's 3 holes, two of which are encircled... can anyone help me out with this?
(http://img13.imageshack.us/img13/2546/gl6x.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/13/gl6x.jpg/)
Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)
Hey Spiffmeister,
An electrolytic cap looks like this :
(http://d3i5bpxkxvwmz.cloudfront.net/resized/images/remote/http_s.eeweb.com/quizzes/2012/06/27/cap-pic-640x590-1340838424_500_461_75.jpg)
On this image the leads are shown as positive (left) and negative (right). The negative lead, on electros, is always shown with a bright colored strip on the cap itself. It is also shorted than the positive lead. So for C5 you'd put the negative lead (the one with the grey/white band pointing to it) in the right-most hole on the PCB (as shown on your picture), and the positive lead in the hole on the left shown with the + sign.
As for C1 and C3, I'd simply follow the circle and the + sign and leave the 3rd hole unused. Maybe it's for add-ons, since as you can see, the + hole on C1 is connected to the hole right under it. Same for C3, the - hole is connected the hole on its right.
yep stick within the markings (circles) just check your + -
and your good to go...have fun. 8)
I'm sure the three holes for the caps are to accomodate
different lead spacings. (5mm & 7.5mm)
Remember, don't make #1 rookie error and ignore the schematic. Get to know how to read em now before you move on...
and of course, read up on the build you're working on:
http://forum.musikding.de/vb/showthread.php?30028-BP1Mk1-bass-boost&s=5b0838bf5c2f4e11ebcb0a39e55e8b41
a "pdf" is at the bottom, but you need to log in
Cool, that makes sense. I'll stick to the circles on the PCB. I know the + and - are very important with elco's, I don't want to blow one up with my first build. Plenty of time for that later on :-)
I've got the schematic, and I've got the schematic and the wiring overview next to me at all time. It's just the my beginner-ness makes it hard for me to figure out the flow of the circuit. But I think I've got it figured out now.
I don't find any threads on the Molie Bass Boost though, the link you've given is for a bass boost on a preamp, apparently.
Thanks for all the replies and the input! I've done a lot of reading and found out more about soldering components to a PCB, so I'm gonna start soldering this evening if all goes well :-) Wish me luck! I'll keep you posted on the progress made!
it's my guess the "multiboost" is the same circuit as the lpb1, which is the same as a hog's foot, or screeming bird, etc, etc. the same circuit with different cap values, hence the holes to fit electros (larger microfarad values for bass frequencies) and/or box caps (smaller nanofarad values for the tweet tweet highs). the same circuit with different biasing resistors, gain setting resistors, transistor types, etc.
welcome and good luck, and I'd say your first build is the place to blow up caps!
here's the schematic for reference
http://diy.musikding.de/wp-content/uploads/2013/06/molieschalt.pdf
(http://www.luciferstrip.com/fuzz/dermolie.jpg)
the symbols they use
(http://www.antonine-education.co.uk/Salters/TRA/Sensing_files/image003.gif)
Hiya!
No worries, I think I got the capacitors figured out :-) Here's what I've done sofar (first image). Basically all of the components have been soldered, pretty beginner-style (they're all croocked and stuff), and the soldering itsself could've been more smoothe, but I think I got it nailed. I'll see what happens when I fire it up :-) If it doesn't work, I get a lesson in troubleshooting :-)
However, I'm now getting started with the wiring, and I'm kind of stuck.
I'm supposed to wire the LED, but I don't understand how I should connect the leads of the LED to the wires... do I just wrap the wire around the LED leads and solder that a bit, or what?
Also, I dont understand how to screw the POT-meter on the casing. You see, theres a metal bump on one side, but not on the other, so when I put it in the hole in the casing, it's crooked. When I screw it tight, it doesn't get fixed, I mean, it doesn't go straight. Am I missing something here? I made a pic of the Pot meter :-)
Thanks for your patience people!
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh487/Spiffmeister6/2013-10-30184945.jpg) (http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/Spiffmeister6/media/2013-10-30184945.jpg.html)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh487/Spiffmeister6/2013-10-30212259.jpg) (http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/Spiffmeister6/media/2013-10-30212259.jpg.html)
Use your needle-nose pliers (or anything else) to break the tab off.
What? Really? That tab doesn't have any function then?
*or* leave that "anti-rotate tab", drill an extra hole in yr box to fit the tab, and when you stick the pot into its hole, it won't try to rotate and break/short leads and stuff.
or snap it off.
when connecting wire to lugs or led leads, you want a bit of mechanical support for the joint before you solder it. strip the wire, twist the bare end to collect up all the strands, then tin with solder to hold them and make soldering a bit easier/faster. now wrap, as tight as you can, through yr lug and around, or just along and around yr lead, (give a squeeze w/ pliers if you like) then solder - enough heat, solder in, then out quick.
you haven't forgotton your sleeving have you? that goes on before soldering, otherwise you do everthing twice. heatshrink on led leads also provides some support where the joint is most likely to break, and avoids shorts, like when yr pot rotates on its mount.
done. perfect joints every time. only takes about 20 years practice ..............
I've been reading up on soldering wires and LED's all day, saw some good explanatory pictures as well, and they basically explained what you've just explained as well :-) Which is good, that means I got a good source!
The sleeving's done. First I didn't know what it was for, then saw it could only fit on the LED, then thought it was pretty self-explanatory for avoiding shorts, with the bare leads and all :-)
I think I'm gonna snap off slab on the pot.
I think I've got everything I need now.
Thanks again for all the information! I'm very grateful to be able to rely on all this experience!!
IT IS DONE! :D
I made some mistakes I know about, and probably a lot I don't know about. My solder joints with the wires are horrible (and I hate doing them), I have several miles of excess wire, I have no idea how I've connected the wires on the 3DPT switch or why, and I've done a lot of guessing and free-styling.
However: IT WORKS! And no one was hurt or electrocuted in the process :D
I've tested it on my crappy 15W Ibanez amp, in case I blew up something, and the knob needs to be turned up all the way, so probably I have some power loss due to crappy solder joints. But maybe the 15W amp just can't deal with the low end, so I'll test it on my Markbass 250W amp and my Ampeg 4x10 cab, that should do it :D
I've also learned a lot, from you guys but also from my own mistakes. This is a fun hobby! :-)
Thanks a bunch guys! As a thank you, you're allowed to laugh at my crappy wiring and soldering :D
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh487/Spiffmeister6/2013-11-01112254.jpg) (http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/Spiffmeister6/media/2013-11-01112254.jpg.html)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh487/Spiffmeister6/2013-11-01112312.jpg) (http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/Spiffmeister6/media/2013-11-01112312.jpg.html)
(http://i1248.photobucket.com/albums/hh487/Spiffmeister6/2013-11-01114153.jpg) (http://s1248.photobucket.com/user/Spiffmeister6/media/2013-11-01114153.jpg.html)
Oh wow! I can NOT turn this thing harder than 2 o clock or the house falls apart :D This pedal is fantastic for an instant dub-sound. I can get some brilliant reggae sounds with my setup, but Dub is a bit harder to dial in. So I can dub-ify my sound instantly with this pedal :D I'm extatic!
whoohooo...cool, glad you got it going.. 8)
tips: build it out of the box first..
populate your pcb..
then populate your box, jacks/switch/dc/led..
and then you can just drop in your circuit with pot/s..and connect 9v/in /out/ ground...then you can see exactly how long your wires need to be..
most of the time i use a bit of card as a jig/template to plan out how long wires need to be...running wires around the edge of the box is better/neater too...
anyway..welcome to this very addictive hobby. 8)
whats next then?.. ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 01, 2013, 08:15:32 AM
whats next then?.. ;D
Here, this should help:
(http://www.calendarsquick.com/printables/pages/images/large/printable_to_do_list_P.png) | (http://www.calendarsquick.com/printables/pages/images/large/printable_to_do_list_P.png) | (http://www.calendarsquick.com/printables/pages/images/large/printable_to_do_list_P.png) |
:icon_biggrin: |
Quote from: bluebunny on November 01, 2013, 09:53:24 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on November 01, 2013, 08:15:32 AM
whats next then?.. ;D
Here, this should help:
(http://www.calendarsquick.com/printables/pages/images/large/printable_to_do_list_P.png) | (http://www.calendarsquick.com/printables/pages/images/large/printable_to_do_list_P.png) | (http://www.calendarsquick.com/printables/pages/images/large/printable_to_do_list_P.png) |
:icon_biggrin: |
Awesome :D
Well, i've been looking for a good compression pedal for a long while, more specifically the MXR M87, because it has Attack and Release controls and shows when the compressor is activated. I'm currently looking out for one, so a compressor build might not be necessary. And I've already got an octaver (EBS Octabass), phaser (EBS DPhaser), some dirt (EBS Multidrive and an MXR Blowtorch), and a loop-switcher for 3 loops and a chorus (Boss CEB3). Oh and my Source Audio programmable EQ that's always on.
I'm thinking of a good delay, and might throw out the Boss soon, since it's a tone sucker (hence the loop-switcher) when off, and the controls are rather limited. maybe a pedal that can do reverb ànd chorus would be great.
Also another dirt pedal is always welcome :-) But it needs a blend knob.
Any ideas for a second build for bass guitar?
Quote from: Spiffmeister on November 01, 2013, 10:03:30 AM
Any ideas for a second build for bass guitar?
Small Clone chorus. OK, perhaps third or fourth build. But it's the best chorus I have. Been "searching" for 30 years and spent sh!tloads of money on commercial choruses, then built the best one for (relatively) next-to-nothing.
Hm, i'll look into it. What are the specs and controls? Why woulod you consider it a later build, what makes it challenging?
Just in terms of size. It's a bit more involved than your first build.
(http://tonepad.com/images/photoessays/373.jpg)
But what the heck - go mad! Check out tonepad (http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=8) if you want a ready-made board (it's where I got mine). Note that you'll need to score a genuine MN3007 for this one; may or may not be hard to find. Plenty of duds out there, so buy from a reputable dealer (e.g. Smallbear in the US, or Dr Tweek in the UK).
Cool!
The original pedal is rather cheap, almost half the price of my CEB-3. It has less knobs/options though. I'm gonna check for more reviews and sound-clips. I'll check if the MN3007 is easy to find here in Belgium.
But it's a good idea for a build!
do a search for "EH hogs foot schematic"
Well actually I've been thinking of the Wooly Mammoth, seems like a rather easy circuit, but with a lot of knobs. What do you guys think? Doable? Any sources?
Oh, and I've got a problem with my Molie! When it is preceeded by my EQ pedal ON, it works fine, if not, it has very very low volume, and I need to turn it up to the max. When the EQ pedal is ON, it's got loads of volume already at 2 o clock... That's pretty weird... now, my EQ pedal is always on, but still... What could I have done wrong?
(that molie is a hogs foot.)
sounds like you need to debug your wiring. mulitmeter on ohms or continuity, probe from input jack to switch, from switch to board, from board to vol control, from vol control to switch, from switch to out jack. also check for ground from both jacks and pot to board. the fault is there somewhere, you just got to dig it out.