this thread is for sharing your best shop tips or cool & special tools that make building and repairing easier & faster.
please share!
i grew tired of trying to thread the nuts into pcb mount jacks on wahs - they seem to just want to go in crooked.
converted a crafstman #2 phillips into a nut holder and automatic centering device. it speeds up the process so much! the phillips goes in straight, it is a perfect 1/4" like a plug. i stuffed some foam into the socket to make the nut sit at the perfect depth for easy threading.
the socket is a 12mm, you may also like it with 1/2" or 11mm for other brands and types of nuts.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/shop%20and%20tools/DSCF8040_zps2d886b01.jpg)
this tool would be great for amp or pedal repair people and anyone doing work with PCB mount jacks.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v311/joegagan/shop%20and%20tools/DSCF8041_zps1b74d918.jpg)
another shop tip i like - i keep around 4 or 5 dremels all within easy reach, each loaded with proper bits and saws. saves a lot of time changing bits and blades etc.
dremels are really inexpensive, easy to own many of them for less than $150. i like to find them in pawnshops in their cases, sometimes you end up with a batch of accessories that makes the dremel itself a free bonus.
keeping a couple cordless ones for the less strenuous work is good for keeping the cord clutter down.
BITS?
- a good fiber cutoff wheel - really handy for sharpening other tools and bits along with all of the regular cutting duties. the extra life of a fiber reinforced one makes it worth the extra cost. harbor freight sells a nice three pack ( 1- 1/4" i think).
-one inch cutoff diamond coated thin cut wheel - very good for cutting traces and other thin cut duties.
-several spiral shank cutter bits - you can't beat the 1/8" round head for general use.
- a homemade small bit that tapers up in size to make quick drilling in pcbs for mods and repairs. the tapered shaft lets you use it like a unibit, just go as deep as you need for the diameter. i started with a round head 1/16th ball head to make this - will post pics.
- the little drum sander thingie.
i keep the less commonly used bits with their own collet - saves time searching for the right collet when you do end up changing bits.
The little drum sander thingie is a standard item for professional dog groomers and show personnel. Most dogs don't even know you're doing their nails unless you get them too hot or grind into the quick.
thanks RG, i will keep that in mind ( no doggies )
one more note about the fiber cutoff wheels. you can make them stronger by using older ground down ( 3/4" diameter or so) wheel of same type or the thin non-fiber ones behind the new one when you screw it to the shaft. this cuts down on flex and extends the life even better.
Tweezers (of the kind you'd use on eyebrows and the like). Great for wire-wrangling, especially in cramped enclosures.
The brass-wool thingie for cleaning soldering iron tips -- instead of wiping it on a wet sponge, you jab it into some brass wool stuff. Mine is a Goot ST40, if that helps.
Blu-tac.
Blu-tac. (Yes, it's that useful.)
I may have posted these before, or not.
Anyway...
Good for when you need to bend a lot of resistors (can be had at Smallbear):
Mine has 1/4 watt on one side and 1/2 watt on the other. Don't recall where I got it from.
I have since drilled a hole in the top tab area so it can be easily hung on a nail or something.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Workshop/Resistor_Tool_001.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CodeMonk/media/Workshop/Resistor_Tool_001.gif.html)
Cap tester and IC inserter:
(Cap tester from Seeed)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Workshop/Cap_Tester_IC_Inserter_001.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CodeMonk/media/Workshop/Cap_Tester_IC_Inserter_001.gif.html)
Wire holder for tinning wires:
Just a spring a few pieces of wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Workshop/Wire_Holder_002.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CodeMonk/media/Workshop/Wire_Holder_002.gif.html)
An old koozy works great for a neck rest when you work on your guitar or change strings. Cut each side, fill it with dry beans for weight, and then hot glue the foam scraps inside. Just place a bath towel or carpet scrap under the guitar body when you use it.
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/2014-06/0AFB5763-0C78-487C-9720-C46A46E65676.jpg)
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/2014-06/9389A055-9BB9-4F7F-9867-12A446827F48.jpg)
Quote from: CodeMonk on June 10, 2014, 01:33:14 AM
Good for when you need to bend a lot of resistors (can be had at Smallbear):
Mine has 1/4 watt on one side and 1/2 watt on the other. Don't recall where I got it from.
I have since drilled a hole in the top tab area so it can be easily hung on a nail or something.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Workshop/Resistor_Tool_001.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CodeMonk/media/Workshop/Resistor_Tool_001.gif.html)
The spring is a good idea, I just use blu-tack for that though.
If you're a cheap bugger like me... I just use the blunt side of an old steak knife as a resistor lead bender. (The sharp side of the knife really isn't.)
This is a great thread!
I use vero most of the time, and I started out cutting the traces with a stanley knife. Since then I've got hold of a really cheap flat head screwdriver and filed each side down flat, so there's a little thin point in the middle. The point sits in the hole and as the screwdriver is rotated it cuts a neat little circle through the copper trace.
Another thing I use more than anything else is a pair of very fine tipped needle nosed pliers. Great for manipulating components, holding things still, bending wires and a bunch of other stuff.
I also keep a swiss army knife handy, since the blade on the can opener is great for scoring and cutting vero.
One other thing I picked up was a magnetic project mat. It is basically a small magnetic sheet with a whiteboard grid on it. I can arrange all the components I am using and get them ready for placing on the breadboard/soldering with ease: http://www.ifixit.com/Store/Tools/Magnetic-Project-Mat/IF145-167
For tinning multi-strand wire I recently came along this method: http://www.instructables.com/id/Strip-and-Tin-Wires-Like-a-Pro/step4/Multi-core-tricks/
The key trick presented is when stripping, to only leave the insulation on at the end and use the insulation itself to twist the wire and hold it together while you're tinning it
Quote from: CodeMonk on June 10, 2014, 01:33:14 AM
Good for when you need to bend a lot of resistors (can be had at Smallbear):
Mine has 1/4 watt on one side and 1/2 watt on the other. Don't recall where I got it from.
I have since drilled a hole in the top tab area so it can be easily hung on a nail or something.
Yep. That's an old friend of mine. I've used them since the 70s, when the only useful notches were not the 1/4 W on the far end.
Quote from: alanp on June 10, 2014, 02:58:25 AM
If you're a cheap bugger like me... I just use the blunt side of an old steak knife as a resistor lead bender. (The sharp side of the knife really isn't.)
Last time I did a build where I needed a couple of hundred bent resistors, I took the time to cut a piece of wood so that one side was the right distance apart to make resistor leads fit 0.4" centers (the correct distance is 0.4" minus one lead diameter) and then to cut and scrape a channel in the wood so the resistor bodies would fit into it. This let me put 20-30 resistor bodies in the channel and bend them all on one side, then the other simultaneously. It took me about 30 minutes to shape the wood, but then I still have it. It's saved me hours since then.
old can nailed above bench to hold squeezy tools:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/6/5519/14390962694_5d53c29a71_n.jpg)
table vice as a cable wrangler:
(https://c2.staticflickr.com/4/3901/14390629382_eb8dbb5971_n.jpg)
Quote from: Seljer on June 10, 2014, 08:03:00 AM
For tinning multi-strand wire I recently came along this method: http://www.instructables.com/id/Strip-and-Tin-Wires-Like-a-Pro/step4/Multi-core-tricks/
The key trick presented is when stripping, to only leave the insulation on at the end and use the insulation itself to twist the wire and hold it together while you're tinning it
Ah, that's a good one.
Quote from: garcho on June 10, 2014, 01:04:02 PM
table vice as a cable wrangler:
Cool. If I did that, I could cut *all* of my cords through at once. :icon_eek:
^ correction, 'spare table vice' ;D
a small pair of straight & curved hemostats...useful for serving as a heatsink when removing or installing germanium transistors. also handy as a roach clip.
Quote from: alanp on June 06, 2014, 03:18:10 AM
Tweezers (of the kind you'd use on eyebrows and the like). Great for wire-wrangling, especially in cramped enclosures.
The brass-wool thingie for cleaning soldering iron tips -- instead of wiping it on a wet sponge, you jab it into some brass wool stuff. Mine is a Goot ST40, if that helps.
Blu-tac.
Blu-tac. (Yes, it's that useful.)
You beat me to it on blue-tac and tweezers; can't stress tweezers enough. :) And a magnifying glass either one of the big ones with lights or even the drug store 2.99 version. I wonder how many people debug builds and blindly reflow solder joints for hours when they could have found it right off with a magnifier. I find at least 1 thing on every build by simply always verifying under magnification, has saved me hours and hours of potential grief all the way down to near microscopic pieces of solder or metal sitting on a vero shorting out traces etc.
Seem to find endless uses for a dental pick, cleaning off hardened flux, fishing wire, bending wires around terminals...
I use nut drivers for tightening the the hardware for pots, jacks and switches. The ones i bought have a beveled inside edge that makes engaging with the thin nuts dicy so i ground the nut drivers down and eliminated the bevel and now get non-slip tightening.
To protect the enclosure from the nut drivers, used a circle cutter to put holes in strips of transparency to match the nut sizes and fit one around the nut for protection while tightening.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6085_zps8fad7bff.jpg)
Solder dispenser, lazy Susan bearing, shelf liner and a spool of solder, will need to add some weight on top of the spool when it starts getting down.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5934_zps0afdfe04.jpg)
The old Dremel drill press stand's carriage would shift sideways just before the bit would enter the pcb, a couple pieces of heatshrink on the depth stop yoke and the shift is eliminated.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5632_zpsb387a0ea.jpg)
Exposure shelf for photosensitive pcbs.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1738.jpg)
PCB drilling cheat.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5636_zps5fa00d8e.jpg)
Vero cutter, wood bead epoxied to a drill bit, some greasy wood.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5595_zpscf378e5a.jpg)
I use old phone books and thick catalogs as sacrificial surfaces when drilling or cutting with a utility knife. It saves wear and tear on my work bench and counter tops.
(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/72478558-86B2-4BA5-9A20-B19727C4E408_1.jpg)
An elastic band around the handles of long nose pliers makes a great mini vice or heamostat,
Roll the elastic band to the top of the handles when not needed
Orange sticks are a great help:
(http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cat/images/SH83_700.jpg)
You can make your own cheaply.
I usually get a package of shish kabob skewers at Walmart (About $2 for a package of 100: http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?povid=P1171-C1110.2784+1137.2772-L0&search_constraint=0&ic=48_0&Find.x=0&Find.y=0&Find=Find&_ta=1&search_query=shish%20kabob%20skewers&_tt=shish%20kabo), and grind, shave or sand the ends into a chisel shape.
Sometimes I cut grooves on the ends.
Very useful for holding down wires, resistors and other components.
Can also be used to pry an IC from a socket.
Box and lid holders for painting. One for an A box and one for a B box. I roll up a piece of masking tape to stick the box and lid on. Stick in one hand and paint can in the other.
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51228&g2_serialNumber=1)
Quote from: Jdansti on June 14, 2014, 04:17:51 AM
. . . saves wear and tear on . . . counter tops.
And keeps the good Mrs D from having to exact "punishment". I have no workshop, so I'm
very careful to leave the kitchen unblemished!
Quote from: CodeMonk on June 10, 2014, 01:33:14 AM
I may have posted these before, or not.
Anyway...
Good for when you need to bend a lot of resistors (can be had at Smallbear):
Mine has 1/4 watt on one side and 1/2 watt on the other. Don't recall where I got it from.
I have since drilled a hole in the top tab area so it can be easily hung on a nail or something.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Workshop/Resistor_Tool_001.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CodeMonk/media/Workshop/Resistor_Tool_001.gif.html)
So what is the KRAFT JALAPENO used for? and FFS why the f*** can't I buy it down under? :icon_mrgreen:
david
Quote from: bluebunny on June 14, 2014, 11:04:27 AM
Quote from: Jdansti on June 14, 2014, 04:17:51 AM
. . . saves wear and tear on . . . counter tops.
And keeps the good Mrs D from having to exact "punishment". I have no workshop, so I'm very careful to leave the kitchen unblemished!
i have an old breadboard (chopping board) i use as an all in one bench, with added rubber feet, i use it for drilling, wet sanding, etching on , painting, i have holes of different sizes to hold stuff/pots/jacks/switches while i solder them..
i got fed up with my 'helping hands' they won't hold naff all...except tiny stuff....and usually just get in the way too....
before that i used to get in trouble with Mrs Astro a lot.. ::)
I don't know if it's just me but I can't solder on an empty stomach :P I decided a few months ago that the ideal soldering food is popsicles. Thus, out of necessity...
(http://i.imgur.com/SLXQCFO.png)
And yes, my workplace was/is a mess.
>> very fine tipped needle nosed pliers.
> straight & curved hemostats...
+1!!
I have *always* kept these near:
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31lcqlnZ%2BjL._SX342_.jpg)
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Forceps-/19327/i.html
We originally stole these as roach-holders, but they are even more useful for massaging small wires or fetching dropped nuts.
> a magnifying glass ....with lights
YES YES YES ! ! !
While you can't "see electricity", you can SEE most electrical mis-connections. But on smaller electronics, you need help. BRIGHT light and magnifier.
> I can't solder on an empty stomach
I must point out that solder and food is a path to Lead Poisoning. Fairly serious, insidious, and doctors today don't think of Lead when an adult presents with vague symptoms.
> KRAFT JALAPENO .... why the f*** can't I buy it down under?
AU must have laws banning noxious food-substitutes.
Quote from: PRR on June 14, 2014, 08:57:30 PM
> I can't solder on an empty stomach
I must point out that solder and food is a path to Lead Poisoning. Fairly serious, insidious, and doctors today don't think of Lead when an adult presents with vague symptoms.
I know :-\ My EE teacher also informed me that it can lead to even more serious ailments than food poisoning, but I've been doing it for over 10 years and can't seem to kick the habit :icon_redface: I guess I rationalized that popsicles are okay because I'm not actually eating the part that makes contact with my hands ::)
> more serious ailments than food poisoning
Not to make light of food poisoning; but you ought to at least read-up on Lead Poisoning.
"...symptoms usually don't appear until dangerous amounts have accumulated."
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lead_poisoning
http://www.mayoclinic.org/diseases-conditions/lead-poisoning/basics/symptoms/con-20035487
http://www.med.umich.edu/yourchild/topics/leadpois.htm
http://www.motherjones.com/environment/2013/01/lead-crime-link-gasoline
http://www.nybooks.com/articles/archives/2013/mar/21/lead-poisoning-ignored-scandal/
http://www.patient.co.uk/doctor/Lead-Poisoning
"we don't need no stinking KRAFT JALAPENO", we've got vegemite.
a magnet on the end of a telescopic aerial. with a short aerial, you can put the magnet on the hand-holding end, and the tip will be a little magnetic, instead of stick-to-everything magnetic. pick out dropped nuts. and washers. and bolts.
^I use a small telescopic magnet to start the nuts on impossible-to-reach-with-fingers/needlenose pliers predicaments i paint myself into.
Quote from: CodeMonk on June 10, 2014, 01:33:14 AM
I may have posted these before, or not.
Anyway...
Good for when you need to bend a lot of resistors (can be had at Smallbear):
Mine has 1/4 watt on one side and 1/2 watt on the other. Don't recall where I got it from.
I have since drilled a hole in the top tab area so it can be easily hung on a nail or something.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Workshop/Resistor_Tool_001.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CodeMonk/media/Workshop/Resistor_Tool_001.gif.html)
Cap tester and IC inserter:
(Cap tester from Seeed)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Workshop/Cap_Tester_IC_Inserter_001.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CodeMonk/media/Workshop/Cap_Tester_IC_Inserter_001.gif.html)
Wire holder for tinning wires:
Just a spring a few pieces of wood.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Workshop/Wire_Holder_002.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CodeMonk/media/Workshop/Wire_Holder_002.gif.html)
I store a lot of my parts in medicine bottles too!Where did you purchase the cap tester from?Do you have a link you can maybe share?
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9485 (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9485)
Quote from: CodeMonk on June 14, 2014, 07:01:55 AM
Orange sticks are a great help:
(http://www.hmcelectronics.com/cat/images/SH83_700.jpg)
You can make your own cheaply.
I usually get a package of shish kabob skewers at Walmart (About $2 for a package of 100: http://www.walmart.com/search/search-ng.do?povid=P1171-C1110.2784+1137.2772-L0&search_constraint=0&ic=48_0&Find.x=0&Find.y=0&Find=Find&_ta=1&search_query=shish%20kabob%20skewers&_tt=shish%20kabo), and grind, shave or sand the ends into a chisel shape.
Sometimes I cut grooves on the ends.
Very useful for holding down wires, resistors and other components.
Can also be used to pry an IC from a socket.
I will include this in my next Walmart run.
Quote from: tubegeek on June 17, 2014, 11:06:04 AM
https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9485 (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/9485)
Thanks!
Quote from: boogietone on June 17, 2014, 04:12:56 PM
Quote from: CodeMonk on June 14, 2014, 07:01:55 AM
Orange sticks are a great help:
...
You can make your own cheaply.
I usually get a package of shish kabob skewers at Walmart (About $2 for a package of 100:
...
I will include this in my next Walmart run.
Or just pick up several packages of the chop sticks that are typically left on tables at fast-food Chinese places.
I couldn't do any pedal building without one of these.
They have 2 basic types:
One with a circular bulb that goes all the way around the lens and one that uses a regular bulb.
I prefer the type with the standard bulb, much cheaper and more readily available to replace the bulb.
(http://www.staples-3p.com/s7/is/image/Staples/s0165121_sc7?$splssku$)
http://www.staples.com/Magnifying-Lamps/cat_CL142806
I have 2 of these but without the magnifying lens
(http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_51055_1.jpg)
And IMO, besides thermal wire strippers, these kind are the best:
(http://www.apogeekits.com/images/wire_strippers_200-003.jpg)
There are a few things in this picture, but mainly wanted to show the toilet paper rolls.
I cut out some round pieces of cardboard and hot glue them in the bottom of the rolls.
This works great for holding short pieces of wire for off board wiring and such.
I have, on more than one occasion, spent an entire day doing nothing but cutting and tinning wires.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Workshop/Toilet_Paper_Rolls_Etc_zps2899822c.gif)
And for the record, I don't eat and solder at the same time.
I ALWAYS wash my hands before eating after handling any solder or doing and work on PCB's etc.
And Jalapeno Cheese is AWESOME.
Solder outside the box and make a jig.
After drilling out the enclosure the holes can be copied onto a piece of scrap timber and drilled out to the same dimensions.
Good for fiddly jobs. The one in the photo was done this way because I only had PCB mount pots in the value needed. It gave me plenty of room to use Gator clips.
This was my first pedal jig, and have since made an improvement. I now use timber screws as feet under the jig. This is to allow the stompswitch to sit all the way in to the hole. 19mm thick timber comprises a lot of my scrap.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag43/buzz134/Jig1_zps65fac7ee.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/buzz134/media/Jig1_zps65fac7ee.jpg.html)
Bingo, easy fit.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag43/buzz134/jig2_zps55cf2721.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/buzz134/media/jig2_zps55cf2721.jpg.html)
You're hugely more patient than I am if you do that.
For the wiring jig i hold it with the drillpress vice wth jaws set so the jig is parallel with the table top. Use 1/16" plywood and need a new one for every pedal as the layouts are always different.
A drillpress vice is a piece of essential kit I really have to invest in.
Would come in mighty handy drilling enclosures too. Beats my current method of wedging it between the wall and a lump of 4 x 2 with my foot.
Davent, do you have a pic of a jig in action? Would be good for the peeps to see it done properly instead of my mug lair version.
At first this may look like a time waster, but in practice it's a time saver. Seriously takes one minute to make. Saves many minutes and frustrations when you are soldering.
Whether or not it's proper... is totally anal. Drill the jig to match the enclosure, mount the pots and switches to the jig and wire things up. I leave the jig big enough that i can grab any edge in the vice. I use thin plywood i have around but have seen others using boxboard, whatever you have on hand.
Only found one vice picture but you get the idea.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1629.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5142_zpsc55acc53.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/9acf6317-347e-424a-a05f-850904757854_zps59ddd2f4.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5985_zps21bd6cf5.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/6d87896c-bcc4-4e4b-a3c1-2d28afc2d17e_zps32e11b65.jpg)
Nice one.
Maybe anal, but that looks as neat as a pin. Having the board outside the box would also be an advantage when shaping solid core wiring.
I've found that stiff cardboard works well for a wiring jig too.
A trick I see in your photos is using clear plastic packaging as insulator material. You can see it under the PCB in this photo:
Quote from: davent on June 18, 2014, 07:31:52 PM
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5142_zpsc55acc53.jpg)
Quote from: Jdansti on June 18, 2014, 09:51:19 PM
A trick I see in your photos is using clear plastic packaging as insulator material. You can see it under the PCB in this photo:
One of my clients (cell phone battery R&D lab) uses rolls of thin, clear Mylar in one of their processes. An employee gave me half a lifetimes supply of the stuff. Insulators as far as the eye can see. 8)
Bingo... John hit the nail on the head, plastic packaging rescued from the recycle bin, again, whatever's handy.
(22awg Teflon stranded wire, can only get large radius bends to hold)
Quote from: Buzz on June 18, 2014, 03:57:50 AM
Solder outside the box and make a jig.
After drilling out the enclosure the holes can be copied onto a piece of scrap timber and drilled out to the same dimensions.
Quote from: davent on June 18, 2014, 07:31:52 PM
I use thin plywood i have around but have seen others using boxboard, whatever you have on hand.
Wood? I use marble.
CHAD
I just got new glasses. Adjustable focus. Pretty cool.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=107641.msg978886#msg978886
DAMN - you guys are all awesome. i owe every one of you a couple days worth of time with what youall have saved me already.
Quote from: Jdansti on June 18, 2014, 09:51:19 PM
A trick I see in your photos is using clear plastic packaging as insulator material. You can see it under the PCB in this photo:
I use the plastic envelope that my guitar strings come in. It's thick enough to stay in place without much coercing, and thin enough to take a crisp fold. A bonus for me is that I don't even have to buy guitar strings: Dr Tweek in the UK uses them to ship components!
Quote from: PRR on June 19, 2014, 12:52:53 AM
I just got new glasses. Adjustable focus. Pretty cool.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=107641.msg978886#msg978886
They're going on the wishlist.
Quote from: PRR on June 19, 2014, 12:52:53 AM
I just got new glasses. Adjustable focus. Pretty cool.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=107641.msg978886#msg978886
yep, they are brililant....i wear glasses for reading/driving, but also have stronger ones for close up (reading resistors/transistors)
so they would be ideal...cheers paul. 8)
I wouldn't even think to try soldering without these.
(http://www.leevalley.com/en/images/item/woodworking/assorted/99k2010s1b.jpg)
The new on board Bread Board power supply
With Vbias rail
(http://imagizer.imageshack.us/v2/640x480q90/823/dkdrz.jpg)[/URL]
I used hot melt to stick it down and help hold the 2.1mm socket
Included is an led on indicator.
One eye's buggered so no up-close depth of field vision, makes drilling pcb's and soldering much more challenging then it was. Rigged my Dremel press with a usb endoscope so i can align the pad holes with crosshairs on a laptop screen and drill through the dead center of the pad.
Details thread. http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=105520.0
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5634_zpsb5864728.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5636_zps5fa00d8e.jpg)
QuoteDAMN - you guys are all awesome. i owe every one of you a couple days worth of time with what youall have saved me already.
and there's an art to starting a useful thread, thanks Joe
Henry Rollins holds my probes.
I'm sure he would be overjoyed to know that.
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/Rollins_zps06d9b7d2.jpg)
MC
that's before he gets to know you're using non lead free solder and kicks your... ;)
The most useful tool for me is a tweezer to hold the wire while doing in box soldering
and keep an eye on your cat while laying out the components. I've had my revenge though
using one of his mugs as a solder sponge holder.
Spare strips of vero are useful for star gound connections too.
My breadboard rig.
The base is an offcut from a kitchen cabinet kickboard. The blue box with the stompswitch once held brads for a nailgun.
All the offboard wiring for an effect pedal is in there with a 3PDT switch, in / out jacks, battery snap, 2.1mm 9v jack and an LED indicator.
Four wires extend from the box terminating in breadboard pins. +9v at the top. Board in, board out and ground at the bottom.
Very handy item.
(http://i1298.photobucket.com/albums/ag43/buzz134/BBRig_zpsf1667f3f.jpg) (http://s1298.photobucket.com/user/buzz134/media/BBRig_zpsf1667f3f.jpg.html)
^ nice. it's tempting to cram too much into a breadboard station, better just to leave it tabula rasa.
Quote from: Jdansti on June 18, 2014, 09:51:19 PM
I've found that stiff cardboard works well for a wiring jig too.
A trick I see in your photos is using clear plastic packaging as insulator material. You can see it under the PCB in this photo:
I have gotten in the habit of cutting off any largish, flat pieces of the hard, clear plastic that most items come packaged in. It is such a pain to get the item out of that I want something extra for my effort.
Hello,
here are some of my "tools":
Little wire-box:
(http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/17258/normal_Litzebox.jpg)
Transistor-adapter for trying transistors out of the enclosure while using the pedal:
(http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/17258/DIY-Transistoradapter.jpg)
Geofex Leakage and hFe-checker:
(http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/17258/Geofex_Leakage_and_hFe_Checker%7E0.jpg)
Greetings
Magnus
^ nifty tranny cable.. 8)
my cap and resistor sub boxes...i just couldn't get by without these now for breadboarding...must have tools imo.
they are a bit ratty now after 4 years or so...but i know the values ;), i should upgrade and etch a couple of boxes for them really...hmmmm one day maybe.. ::)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/capresistorsubboxes.jpg)
Using an endoscope, Dave--now THAT'S anal. :)
Also, vices may have a grip on my soul, but for DIY, I prefer a vise.
Edit: I am now given to understand that the "vise" spelling of the word for the gripping tool is more or less uniquely American. (http://grammarist.com/spelling/vice-vise/ (http://grammarist.com/spelling/vice-vise/)) Apologies and condolences to the rest of you, who must consider the moral dimension of holding your pad-per-hole, vero or pcb still while soldering.
Rob... What have you got in those boxes?
I assume rotary switches with resistors / caps selectable. Breadboard pins for in / out.
Did you make a pcb or can you just solder the components to the lugs?
This has just gone to the top of my 'must have' bench equipment list.
I've been wanting to do something like Rob did for years, but never got around to it
I built one of these a few years ago.
It's a cap selector switch, 2P6T:
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Builds/6-BY-2_Rotary-Switch_In_Use_Picture.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CodeMonk/media/Builds/6-BY-2_Rotary-Switch_In_Use_Picture.gif.html)
Here the trace layout if you wanna make one, PCB mounts right on the switch (I got that particular switch from Ratshack) :
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v494/CodeMonk/Builds/6-BY-2_Rotary-Switch_002D.gif) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/CodeMonk/media/Builds/6-BY-2_Rotary-Switch_002D.gif.html)
Quote from: Buzz on June 24, 2014, 10:29:53 AM
Rob... What have you got in those boxes?
I assume rotary switches with resistors / caps selectable. Breadboard pins for in / out.
Did you make a pcb or can you just solder the components to the lugs?
This has just gone to the top of my 'must have' bench equipment list.
similar to what codemonk did, but i did it the other way around...which is probably the most illogical knowing me but hey it works right.... :)
no pcb, 2 rotary switches, with a toggle from one rotary to the other...various values....2 wires coming out.
they come in handy for instantly swapping bits, without raiding your drawers having to look for stuff....nifty for quick LP/HP tone control stuff too... 8)
even handy for testing led brightness instantly too...or starving the butt out of trannies.. ;)
Thanks, that's pretty much how I envisioned it.
Sure beats swapping out caps on the BB.
For resistor values I think need tweaking I usually bung in a trimpot and measure the resistance after.
Rob's box seems like a superior method on this front, too.
yeah man, build em, you'll never look back... ;) 8) i made sure i used ''common'' values...if i need something in between i put my box in series with it etc...
i just used some plastic boxes i had, but one day i'll put them into metal boxes just to pretty them up, and etch the graphics to save me having to re-draw on em every six months ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 24, 2014, 11:01:05 AM
yeah man, build em, you'll never look back... ;) 8) i made sure i used ''common'' values...if i need something in between i put my box in series with it etc...
i just used some plastic boxes i had, but one day i'll put them into metal boxes just to pretty them up, and etch the graphics to save me having to re-draw on em every six months ;D
Next time just write the text on labels and cover those with clear fingernail polish.
(If you draw right on the box, the ink tends to dissolve unless you do it REALLY carefully).
i'll get mrs astro on the case...she has stickers at work. :icon_idea:
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 24, 2014, 11:01:05 AM
i just used some plastic boxes i had, but one day i'll put them into metal boxes just to pretty them up, and etch the graphics to save me having to re-draw on em every six months ;D
Don't do it! You'll lose the mad scientist vibe. My favourite bench gear is all cobbled together from
crap I mean found materials :icon_lol:
Quote from: Magnus on June 24, 2014, 05:01:47 AM
Hello,
here are some of my "tools":
Little wire-box:
(http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/17258/normal_Litzebox.jpg)
LOVE the wire box. Add that to my list of "I should really start doing that." ::)
Well...since everyone is showing off their goods....here's a resistance substitution box that I made. It also incorporates a pot for each resistance scale so you can dial in between resistances that aren't included on the rotary selector. I made a capacitor substation box as well. As Rob said...invaluable tools!
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/resitance%20box.jpg)
+1 neato!.. 8)
slidey switch too.. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 24, 2014, 12:00:30 PM
+1 neato!.. 8)
slidey switch too.. 8)
Board mounted everything except for the binding posts.
Rob,
How does the small 10pf work out? I started at 100pf because I thought that the leads running from the box to the breadboard would add enough capacitance that a small cap wouldn't be accurate anyway. Maybe I was wrong. :icon_wink:
i think you were probably right... :)
i shouldv'e started 47/100, but they were made a long time ago when i first launched into audio orbit.... ;D
Quote from: deadastronaut on June 24, 2014, 12:43:22 PM
i think you were probably right... :)
i shouldv'e started 47/100, but they were made a long time ago when i first launched into audio orbit.... ;D
It was just a thought that I had when I was planning the build. I have no way to verify it. My only "tool" for capacitance measurements is my Fluke 87 multimeter but...it doesn't measure small capacitances.
I've been wanting to get one of those capacitance meter kits like John (Jdansti) posted a month or so ago so I can measure the little guys.
My testing station ;)
(http://i.imgur.com/X6C4yXz.jpg?2?6500)
Sorry for the blur, but it's a lab power supply, connected to an amz power box so i have both 18v and 9v available. to a breadboard with in and out jacks on a plexiglass board with rubber feet.
and i still use this sometimes:
(http://31.media.tumblr.com/1254bb3f61507ffe2880e104460be2cf/tumblr_inline_mt6gpuF5ZE1qm1ht8.jpg)
Quote from: Ben N on June 24, 2014, 05:23:25 AM
Using an endoscope, Dave--now THAT'S anal. :)
Also, vices may have a grip on my soul, but for DIY, I prefer a vise.
Edit: I am now given to understand that the "vise" spelling of the word for the gripping tool is more or less uniquely American. (http://grammarist.com/spelling/vice-vise/ (http://grammarist.com/spelling/vice-vise/)) Apologies and condolences to the rest of you, who must consider the moral dimension of holding your pad-per-hole, vero or pcb still while soldering.
Totally anal.
And i blew it, if i'd paid attention that contraption would have been a vise, the convention up here as well as far as i know.
Decade counter resister box in progress.
Ordered a bunch of these switches for China to build decade boxes but they sent two types, the ones on the left add things in series they were what i needed and they sent half that add in parallel. Using the series for resistor box and the parallels for a few capacitor boxes. All wired up but yet to be boxed.
Got some more the correct ones from Adafruit at a decent price and they have a larger version of the switch as well. An eight stack fit's nicely in a 1590a. Chromesphere has instructions for building one these.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6141_zpsdda57f44.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6142_zpsae0b3817.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6129_zps9db4398b.jpg)
Plan is to put these in individual boxes.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6360_zpsaa3889ea.jpg)
LED CLR determiner, from 510r - 18k2. Mark Hammer idea.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_4619.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_4614.jpg)
Geofex GE Tester with adjustable voltage regulator.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6123_zps5fa9abab.jpg)
Ge Auditioner based on one stage of mac's Christmas fuzz. Listen for noisy devices and check voltages with the typical component values.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5969_zps11e77f56.jpg)
Someday i amy build a pedal.
dave
Looks good Dave!
Hey..what kind of connecter is that green thing? Do you have a link? I want to check that out.
You know Dave, one of those GE testers with a cheap digital voltmeter built in would be helpful. :icon_idea:
Quote from: armdnrdy on June 24, 2014, 03:07:20 PM
Looks good Dave!
Hey..what kind of connecter is that green thing? Do you have a link? I want to check that out.
Spring actuated, 2.5mm spacing (as opposed to the typical 5mm) terminal block, found them at Digikey.
Lots of different position numbers available. Out of stock but someone's bound to have similar.
http://www.digikey.ca/product-detail/en/1990025/277-1796-ND/950924
Quote from: italianguy63 on June 24, 2014, 03:15:37 PM
You know Dave, one of those GE testers with a cheap digital voltmeter built in would be helpful. :icon_idea:
Simple enough to just plug one into the side jacks.
Larry-- let me check tonight, but I may have some connectors like that lying around I will never need. You can have them (pay the postage).
Dave, I have about 3 of those segmented chinese voltmeters. Would be cool just to build into the enclosure. (Maybe when I have time).
MC
Thanks for the info Dave.
They're in stock at Mouser:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Phoenix-Contact/1990025/?qs=sps7W/wBcGGPb/JpKOjqZA==
Mark, yeah...check to see if you have some of these.
I use what most of us use for transistor testers (SIL sockets) but they're a pain to get the leads in at times!
this looks like a better option!
Hey look Joe....this thread is working! :icon_wink:
I'll PM you later tonight.. MC
@dave,
i remember 'chromesphere paul' making a resistor sub from these decimal thumb wheel switches..
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IZIMEuWF3Uo
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-Pcs-KM1-0-9-Digital-Decimal-Coded-Pushwheel-Switches-Black-22mm-x-8mm/190838327492?_trksid=p0.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D23345%26meid%3D7852353123523748698%26pid%3D100204%26prg%3D9920%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D20%26sd%3D281350659135
there's always this too.. 8) (bug the missus for a prezzie :icon_idea:) ;)
https://scientrific.com.au/product.php?p=77
Okay....Where is Paul?
We have to give him an award for the longest video (10:41) showcasing a resistor decade box ever!
He didn't even plug in a guitar! :icon_eek:
:D
@rob, Yes that's the video, thanks for tracking that down!
Haven't stumbled across a listing or any info for the parallel decade switch and took much head scratching before it dawned on me what to use them for. The caps were just close common values, 1, 2.2,3.9 & 8.2, ideals 1, 2, 4 & 8.
Plug in a power source=>plug in pedal, measure mV drop across the 1ohm resister which equals the current demands of the pedal.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_3277.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_3276.jpg)
Trouble shooting, siren chip (SMD) for output and a 386 amp in a box.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_3281.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_3278.jpg)
Test rig, ideas cherry picked from Jacob's (JMK) test rig.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5980_zps43ce43ac.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_5979_zpsb5a52f90.jpg)
Copy of Electrosonic's solution for breadboarding with pots. And if you rip those plastic covers off the Tayda pots you connect the terminals blocks together.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6066_zps04e0f2e4.jpg)
Last, maybe... if you're building tube amps it's recommended to do a headphone test to determine the quietest position/orientation for the power and output transformers relative to each other. Hook up the OT secondary to your headphones, position the PT on your chassis, apply power to the PT and listen to your headphones while you move the OT around on the chassis listening for the quiet.
Put a little fused box together to organize the wiring needs rather the gerry-rigging something each time, and for safety- use a terminal strip to stow each of the PT's secondary wires.
Box is also handy for powering/testing un-utilized transformers.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_2502.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6254_zps8df97a4b.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6253_zpscf83fb27.jpg)
... anally yours
Dave, you're kind of my hero.
Not really shop nor tool but some good thick packing foam makes a good work space.
(http://files.artistserver.com/m1/89/76/media/36459.jpg)
Quote from: Focalized on June 28, 2014, 04:26:36 AM
Not really shop nor tool but some good thick packing foam makes a good work space.
If you can, try to get the pink stuff PE closed-cell foam... it is non-static.
david
much prettier too.. :-*
;D
It looks like all the soldiers lined up on the hill ready to charge, like in "Braveheart." But, the pike-men go in front.
MC
Now if we could only get these little "men" to jump in the appropriate holes legs first so we can relax, put our feet up, and watch, while sipping a nice cold beer! ;D
( who would like to see a photo of me as a pike man, period mojo correct, an all, anyone? )
Quote from: duck_arse on June 28, 2014, 10:26:29 AM
( who would like to see a photo of me as a pike man, period mojo correct, an all, anyone? )
"this thread is for sharing your best shop tips or cool & special tools that make building and repairing easier & faster.
please share!" Joe Gagan
Duck....if the photo of you dressed as a pike man fits into the category of "cool and special tools," then by all means post it! :D
well I certainly look like a tool in the photo.
I love this place. 8)
Quote from: duck_arse on June 28, 2014, 10:26:29 AM
( who would like to see a photo of me as a pike man, period mojo correct, an all, anyone? )
can I join in?
david
I'm up for it. Go ahead DA post the pic.
+1
I like to think I have some Photoshop skillz.
Post 1. the pike man and 2. your phiz, and Iwillhookyouup!
Holding your stripboard (vero) up to a light makes it very easy to see solder bridges or mis-cuts. Just hold a flashlight up to the component side and the light will shine through between the copper strips.
I keep painting my boards now so this doesn't actually work for me anymore. But using a flashlight to look close is a good idea.
Quote from: Focalized on July 03, 2014, 03:54:45 AM
I keep painting my boards now so this doesn't actually work for me anymore.
Any particular reason you paint the boards?
Time permitting...I often paint my boards as well. I think it adds a nice touch!
Here's one of my latest works. ;D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Mona%20PCB.jpg)
+1.
Larry - very cool board
Thanks man!
you should see what I can do on a pinhead! :icon_wink:
I paint them because the brown is ugly. I liked the way Basic Audio boards looked and found myself painting mine while I did a box. Except the green Velleman boards which are a proper pcb green. Those boards are the best I think.
To make it easy to find & mark vero cuts i printed out a correctly sized grid of co-ordinates so it's simple to transfer the layout strip cuts from the art to the piece of board. Mark the cuts with a Sharpie drill them with a bit, a bit bigger then the holes then flip and cut strips. Stuck the printout to a piece of boxboard. Have a pdf of the grid but not sure where to post.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_6217_zps890fabf8.jpg)
dave
i just got one of these tiny little buggers £1.49 from china...its brilliant for quickly measuring v on breadboard.....
without a big old DMM...might have to attach it to my breadboard setup.. 8)
+ - and blue to measure..
https://www.google.co.uk/search?q=Mini+0V-9.99V+Digital+Red+LED+Voltmeter+Volt+Voltage+Meter+Panel&client=opera&hs=vQ3&tbm=isch&imgil=2r1zDn79jv9YsM%253A%253Bhttps%253A%252F%252Fencrypted-tbn3.gstatic.com%252Fimages%253Fq%253Dtbn%253AANd9GcRq59Wm9ycVlgP0lG3joyS6DlZdkOs1FH1450s0M2KCHeWeD3DTew%253B300%253B300%253BzhCF-TDWTxU1KM%253Bhttp%25253A%25252F%25252Fwww.amazon.com%25252F0V-9-99V-Digital-Voltmeter-Voltage-Meter%25252Fdp%25252FB00GSR85TM&source=iu&usg=__8ZP342NO5Hoto2-JQTy9PouqbEQ%3D&sa=X&ei=-I-2U7TEDImO7AaenoHQCA&ved=0CFAQ9QEwBA&biw=1920&bih=975#facrc=_&imgrc=2r1zDn79jv9YsM%253A%3BzhCF-TDWTxU1KM%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fecx.images-amazon.com%252Fimages%252FI%252F51GHkTv89qL._SY300_.jpg%3Bhttp%253A%252F%252Fwww.amazon.com%252F0V-9-99V-Digital-Voltmeter-Voltage-Meter%252Fdp%252FB00GSR85TM%3B300%3B300
That URL is bigger than the meter! :D Handy tip, Rob. Might have to splash some cash...
:D yeah...
nifty little meter, came quick too, i ordered it on my birthday 28th june...thought i'd splash out big time and treat myself ;D
came today from china.. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 04, 2014, 08:14:08 AM
. . . thought i'd splash out big time and treat myself ;D
Wreckless you are, Rob, wreckless! :D Belated happy birthday, btw...
Belated happy birthday here too!
Let us know if you can power it from the same supply as your breadboard while you're measuring the same power supply voltage and have it operate correctly. I had a problem doing this with mine and had to use a separate 9V battery to power the meter.
Seems correct john..running off breadboard supply,
i compared with a dmm too...bang on. 8)
Quote from: armdnrdy on July 03, 2014, 07:21:15 PM
Time permitting...I often paint my boards as well. I think it adds a nice touch!
Here's one of my latest works. ;D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Mona%20PCB.jpg)
What is your technique for doing this? Especially the white lettering?
The technique is called "messing around" and it was brought to realization in the Windows Visio program....but you can do the same sort of thing in Photoshop.
It was a gag! I copied an image of a circuit board from the net and superimposed a "ghosted" image of the da Vinci classic on top. :icon_wink:
Disclaimer: No priceless masterpieces were damaged during the commission of this gag! ::)
Quote from: Beo on July 04, 2014, 04:35:38 PM
Quote from: armdnrdy on July 03, 2014, 07:21:15 PM
Time permitting...I often paint my boards as well. I think it adds a nice touch!
Here's one of my latest works. ;D
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Mona%20PCB.jpg)
What is your technique for doing this? Especially the white lettering?
Ancient technique. Fo-toh-shoppe.
Aaaaaannnnnd challenge accepted. Stay tuned for my next board. I ran out of ferric last week (I use way too much ::)) and don't get paid until next week, but I kid you not, I will make this happen.
>I ran out of ferric last week (I use way too much>
Next time try warming a few tablespoons and using a sponge to apply it. You can also put a couple of tablespoons in a ziplock baggie, soak it in hot water for a few minutes, and then rub the board through the baggie with your fingers. Wear latex gloves with both techniques.
Quote from: vigilante397 on July 07, 2014, 06:50:02 PM
I ran out of ferric last week (I use way too much ::))
Are you hitting the Ferric Chloride again Nathan? :icon_eek:
Quote from: armdnrdy on July 07, 2014, 08:55:53 PM
Are you hitting the Ferric Chloride again Nathan? :icon_eek:
I'm trying to cut back, but it's still a very serious problem :icon_redface:
Quote from: Jdansti on July 07, 2014, 08:50:23 PM
Next time try warming a few tablespoons and using a sponge to apply it. You can also put a couple of tablespoons in a ziplock baggie, soak it in hot water for a few minutes, and then rub the board through the baggie with your fingers. Wear latex gloves with both techniques.
I have noticed warming it speeds up the etch, and I've also found the sponge method helps me ration my ferric, but I guess I get impatient, or when I have multiple boards to etch in one sitting I assure myself I need way too much. :icon_confused:
Hi, my name is Nathan, I started getting into etching about 4 months ago and have gone through 2 full bottles of ferric :icon_redface:
The first step is acceptance...
hello nathan...i'm a ferricholic. :P
We had some prior talk about PatCo thermal wire strippers in some other thread. I have been watching, and some just showed up at a "better" price on FleaBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261540528336?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#ht_695wt_1124
MC
Quote from: italianguy63 on July 23, 2014, 01:47:54 PM
We had some prior talk about PatCo thermal wire strippers in some other thread. I have been watching, and some just showed up at a "better" price on FleaBay:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/261540528336?_trksid=p2059210.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT#ht_695wt_1124
MC
That is funny...the "seller" Marvac is my local electronics store in Costa Mesa, California.
http://www.marvac.com/locations.aspx
They have a few more stores up in Santa Barbra and Sacramento.
I had no idea that they sold things on Ebay. I guess whatever it takes to survive this stagnant economy. :icon_wink:
> no idea that they sold things on Ebay.
I got some thermo-switches eBay. When they came I realized they were from GreenBrook Electronics, an old-line cinder-block electronics shop in NJ. I've shopped there, but not in 30 years.
Afraid of big drills? Not got one? On holiday?
You need a TAPERED REAMER...
(http://cdn.toolstation.com/images/130125-UK/images/library/stock/webbig/11421.jpg?rand=758244865)
Very useful even if you are equipped with the right drills. You can slip a washer from whatever the hole is for over it to stop you cutting it too big. But you can cut the holes all the way with this, together with a Vero strip cutter (drill in handle) to get the hole started, without any power. Strengthen your wrists too ;)
^ yep i have one of those too...a must have tool for sure. 8)
well, I'll be, I never thought of that washer-on-the-reamer trick. nice one. as for the wrist strengthening, I have other methods.
typing.
+1 on the washer idea... 8)
Quote from: anotherjim on July 24, 2014, 07:10:18 AM
Afraid of big drills? Not got one? On holiday?
You need a TAPERED REAMER...
(http://cdn.toolstation.com/images/130125-UK/images/library/stock/webbig/11421.jpg?rand=758244865)
Very useful even if you are equipped with the right drills. You can slip a washer from whatever the hole is for over it to stop you cutting it too big. But you can cut the holes all the way with this, together with a Vero strip cutter (drill in handle) to get the hole started, without any power. Strengthen your wrists too ;)
I'm not afraid of big drills, I've got one, and I almost never get time for holiday :-\
But I still need one of these.
I don't know if it's been mentioned but...
Bulldog clips, bulldog clips everywhere!
Usually better than my helping hands (screw/nail 'em to a block of wood or your bench), they also make good heatsinks when soldering sensitive components.
The other type are handy too... The type with removable wire handles, you know these...
http://www.dorothymcghie.com/clip.jpg
Binder clips.
They are pretty useful as cable catchers... If you clip them to the end of your desk you can pop the wings off and put cables through them... Good for taking the weight off long heavy cable that would otherwise pull my helping hands to the floor... Or just to stop me having to bend down when I inevitably knock something off the desk!
It's provably been said but my unibit is a lifesaver for drilling boxes!
^ ++1 on the foldback (bulldog) clips. on the wooden block, they are good for holding boards while solder-sucking (elastic bands around the block = non skid). I have a piece of vinyl flooring, folded over, as jaw-guards? lips? it fills the un-even bite of the bulldog, holds things better.
ok, useless for soldering etc, but what a babe tool ..... 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/robs%20aston.jpg)
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 25, 2014, 12:19:13 PM
ok, useless for soldering etc, but what a babe tool ..... 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/robs%20aston.jpg)
That's one of those european lawsuit era copies. :P
(http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x66/LeeAStewart/69bur2.jpg)
CHAD
Quote from: seedlings on July 25, 2014, 01:06:06 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 25, 2014, 12:19:13 PM
ok, useless for soldering etc, but what a babe tool ..... 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8) 8)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/robs%20aston.jpg)
That's one of those european lawsuit era copies. :P
(http://i181.photobucket.com/albums/x66/LeeAStewart/69bur2.jpg)
CHAD
meanwhile, down under .......
(http://www.geocities.ws/MotorCity/Factory/6952/chev/ek_mine01.jpg)
[edit: ] sorry, this is supposed to be tools, isn't? just imagine the above EK is a ute. fixxed.
hmmm... makes the red things look like they should be being pulled by a horse, huh... :)
david
Sorry-- OT.
My "other" hobby. 1936 Chevrolet Master Deluxe. 1993 LT1 Fuel Injected mill, and Jaguar XJ IRS. Been working on it about 6 years, 1/2 complete.
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/Daytona002_zps7c93c9f5.jpg)
(http://i800.photobucket.com/albums/yy286/italianguy63/101_0042_zps15ec5171.jpg)
MC
italianguy63
Nice
Quote from: italianguy63 on July 26, 2014, 09:43:08 AM
Sorry-- OT.
My "other" hobby. 1936 Chevrolet Master Deluxe. 1993 LT1 Fuel Injected mill, and Jaguar XJ IRS. Been working on it about 6 years, 1/2 complete.
MC
Soundclips? :icon_twisted:
Schematic please! ;D
Btw, awesome build ;)
Quote from: Mario44 on July 26, 2014, 12:44:41 PM
Schematic please! ;D
I actually have them! You can't do a FI engine management system without them. I do have a short .vid of it's first maiden run down the street. If I can get it posted to youtube eventually, I will share the link--
Thanks for the kind words. It is a massive amount of engineering and fabrication. MC
wait a minute italianguy, that qualifies as a hot-rod, and we know you didn't build it.
@mark: very nice.. 8)
now we know why your avatar is an engine.. 8)
ronson / visene bottles are primed then shot with colors , i store rubbing alcohol / thinner in those . i scrub all the veros before powering up because i use a spatula tool that has been enlarged to apply plumbrs flux to everything that isnt moving. these lil solvent bottles come in handy for all sorts of stuff though , especially when the liquor store is closed .
women's hair curler with the bristle end removed as a mini heat gun .
dresser drawer bottom panel , sanded / clear coated , masking taped to work area as a stronger more durable desk blotter idea .
old speaker box , gutted with a incandescent bulb inside gets 90 degrees , great toaster oven substitute as those can often run a bit hot .
i have an old 14.5 volt cordless drill pack, the battery sits in the charger , powering the drill , which is bolted down to the base . i have the base filled with assorted grinder bits , its like a hobby grinder . there is also an outlet , actually 6 outlets . all the battery operated tools i obtained with deal cells plug into this . no matter what voltage they were designed for . nothing has smoked , you haven't lived until you run a 6 volt cordless screw driver @ 15 volts , indy 500 style . yYYYINGgg !!!! ( screw goes flying ... )
ok , sorry .
Quote from: petey twofinger on July 27, 2014, 10:19:17 AMyou haven't lived until you run a 6 volt cordless screw driver @ 15 volts , indy 500 style .
Aw HELL yeah!!
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 27, 2014, 07:33:59 AM
@mark: very nice.. 8)
now we know why your avatar is an engine.. 8)
Among other reasons Rob. I actually like Ministry. I dug "Industrial" rock when it wasn't cool-- back in the Chicago Wax Trax days. I guess Industrial still isn't cool... But, I have a bunch of cool "relics" on the wall in my man-cave, including a personalized artist proof print of the Ministry concert poster by the very cool artist "Coop." If you pay close attention to some of my post pics, you may catch glimpes of some interesting things.
But I am a MAJOR gear-head too.
MC
cool, mrs astro loves ministry too, and various other stomping stuff ...everytime we have a party its NWO time without fail.... :icon_cool:
Word. Then you did appreciate the Ministry cover of Supernaut I played for you when you were recovering! ;D
It wasn't your Skoda that got wrecked was it?
Love that stuff. REVCO, TKK, KMFDM, etc.. Prog. rock too... I pretty much like it all except Bieberish stuff and twangy country. That makes the dog in my head howl.
Kids.. I am heading out on a commercial break. See you in about a week. I am going off the GRID.
I know it took me forever to finally do this, but be it known that I am a man of my word. I give you ........ Tube Screamer a la Mona Lisa.
(http://i.imgur.com/u1XYZT3.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/vgiNwc3.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/nlmVUc4.jpg)
Have I earned my foil hat yet? :icon_mrgreen:
Nathen....
You're an artist! ;D
i'm telling the louvre... ;D
that's very cool...
sistine chapel on a lpb1?..
paint-tube screamer? very nice. any frame in mind?
I guess "artist" is one way to describe him.
Quote from: deadastronaut on July 29, 2014, 02:21:29 AM
sistine chapel on a lpb1?..
That would be tricky :P Especially since all my LPB-1 builds so far have been on vero :icon_rolleyes:
I did just finish etching a Sans Amp board though.... :icon_twisted:
At the request of Mr. duck arse, I had my tubescreamer board framed and hung in the local museum for posterity 8)
(http://i.imgur.com/ltxO98Q.jpg)
Neat work
You really captured her eyes.
CHAD
+1 and replacing her whimsical smile with a ceramic cap and the corner of a dil socket is a stroke of genius...
gallery worthy for sure...... 8)
ask the gallery attendants if they might move that bleeding great sculpted hand outta the way, we wanna see the art.
Lol...you have a knack of spotting the unobvious,.. ;D
Quote from: duck_arse on July 30, 2014, 10:23:46 AM
ask the gallery attendants if they might move that bleeding great sculpted hand outta the way, we wanna see the art.
Working on that :P Does anyone have a verified schematic for telekinesis? :icon_rolleyes:
since people seem to be posting things from their other hobbies. here's mine"
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/rocket8811/DSC_03401_zpsdaa13770.jpg)
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/rocket8811/DSC_03361_zpsd5f31e46.jpg)
and no joke, i built her. motor, interior, suspension, etc. just got back from a road trip since friday.
also, what i do when wiring everything i up, i put my pots, switches, and board in the top/outside of the enclosure in reverse of how i want them. so when they are put into the enclosure everything is right where it should be, the wire length is perfect, and all i have to wire up is the jacks. most importantly i don't have to try to work in a cramped spot with my sausage fingers.
thought i'd lob this in here..
i got fed up with not being able to see my trim pots settings on breadboard,
so i sprayed white primer into the can lid, let evaporate, then pushed the primer into
the ready made slots with a pin...voila', no more straining my eyes to see..
spot the difference.. 8)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/pots.jpg)
built a tube beakout board with a transformer for the heater. I will improve it once I get more breadboards.
(http://i.imgur.com/qnmz5j2l.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/qnmz5j2.jpg)
Quote from: rocket8810 on July 30, 2014, 03:46:54 PM
since people seem to be posting things from their other hobbies. here's mine"
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/rocket8811/DSC_03401_zpsdaa13770.jpg)
(http://i909.photobucket.com/albums/ac293/rocket8811/DSC_03361_zpsd5f31e46.jpg)
and no joke, i built her. motor, interior, suspension, etc. just got back from a road trip since friday.
also, what i do when wiring everything i up, i put my pots, switches, and board in the top/outside of the enclosure in reverse of how i want them. so when they are put into the enclosure everything is right where it should be, the wire length is perfect, and all i have to wire up is the jacks. most importantly i don't have to try to work in a cramped spot with my sausage fingers.
What year? '70? '71?
I had a '68 in high school. 327ci/TH350
I love Chevelle's other than the coil spring rears... Some day I swear I will build a '63 Nova with a 383 stroker!!
I just sold the 350/5 speed I had built in the garage to help pay for my medical bills & new Indian. So many toys, so little money.
MC
BTW-- I like the rims and the color a lot! Nice job!!
Does it have the cowl induction flap? Those are cool...
Quote from: italianguy63 on July 17, 2015, 02:48:55 AM
BTW-- I like the rims and the color a lot! Nice job!!
Does it have the cowl induction flap? Those are cool...
she's a 71 that was my first car since i was 16, so that's 14yrs in november. i don't have the cowl induction flap, to put it in is something like 1k in small parts, and a lot of plumping that's not worth the effort, even though they look awesome. thanks for the compliments, it's a labor of love. i've got a little 355sbc that puts out somewhere around 480hp, but i want and plan on building a turbo LS with >700hp, but i don't really have the cash to do it. i think i spent over a month picking out the car color and stripe combo, the wheels took like 3 months to figure out, and don't even get me started on everything else. i think i'm a little anal about it. lol
right now i've working on building a new 12bolt rear, got some new headers, and chassis bracing i'm working on putting in. there's nothing wrong with coil springs if you have everything set up right. if you're ever up in my neck of the woods you're more the welcome to hang out and go for a drive. it's like a corvette, but steel and seats 5. ;D
i love the 30's car you put up. i've been on the hunt for a 2 door 30's chevy coupe for ages, to build, but can never find one. i've never been a huge fan of novas, but they can be great fun cars.
anyways, back to the original topic before i digressed way too much. lol. rob, that idea is ingenuous. so simple and so useful.
I use this tool I made from a plastic curtain rod cap with a flat driver bit cast into it so it fits the drill press, I fill the end with a wad of steel wool (000 grade or whatever) and get great effects polishing different metals/alloys.
The tool:
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad271/dgisaac1/Audio/e2f47f14-d6cd-4b58-b599-05941d9cbec6_zpsx121xnnv.jpg)
The effect:
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad271/dgisaac1/Audio/009_zpsdejorsvl.jpg)
(http://i943.photobucket.com/albums/ad271/dgisaac1/Audio/007_zps6jg02tke.jpg)
This can also be done by hand with a wad of steel wool especially in aluminium.
Cheers Dave
Nice Dave.
Another method of creating this circular effect is to use white a pencil eraser. Cut it to fit into the press and swirl away. Used by Rolls Royce on some of their pre WWII cars, interestingly.
Peter
damn dave, that's brilliant. i've got to make me one of those. i was thinking what to do to make an engine turned look before a colored clear.