I built the Magnus Rangemaster according to this schematic (http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/17258/Dallas_Rangemaster.jpg) and an OC-44 at about hfe=65. I did this one because it's an NPN circuit and has 3 tone options one of which matches the original circuit.
I think it's working properly except that it's just under unity at full pot. I think it's supposed be unity at about 9 and boost from there up. I checked for a reversed transistor and it's not reversed.
Voltage at the collector is supposed to be about -6.6 to -7.2V but it's not. I have this:
C = 0.595
B = 8.85
E = 8.90
One thing I noticed that is that I have 9.5V volts at the bottom R4 junction, but zero on the left leg of C5. I didn't have non-polar caps for C5 and C6 so I used electrolytic polarized caps. I installed them with + facing the voltage source (to the right in both cases). But seeing as I have no voltage left of C5, maybe it's in backwards?
I wanted to check with the experts here before reversing the caps because I heard that it can cause damage if they are in backwards.
Alternately, I could have screwed up the whole +/- thing pretty easily. I tried to trust the schematic and not over-think it. :)
Thanks for any help.
(http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/17258/Dallas_Rangemaster.jpg)
That's a layout, for building. Not a Schematic, for thinking.
Did you see a schematic in your travels?
What little I worked-out looks wrong. The Boost pot should go to the EMITTER, not the Collector. Polarity is also dubious.
Here's a Rangemaster schematic. It looks like your layout just adds a couple of caps and a SPDT (on-off-on) switch for changing the tone with the input caps. Like Paul says, the layout seems off.
(http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/rangemaster/rangemasterschematic.gif)
Edit-
The Magnus layout uses a negative ground for the enclosure, while the circuit card uses positive ground. Be sure the circuit card does not short on anything in the enclosure. Some clear photos of your build would be helpful.
Quote from: PRR on September 11, 2016, 10:41:15 PM
What little I worked-out looks wrong.
Quote from: Cozybuilder on September 11, 2016, 11:01:25 PM
Like Paul says, the layout seems off.
Magnus said it was verified and I know others have built it, so I went for it even though the positive/negative thing definitely confuses me. I'll PM him directly for input.
Quote from: Cozybuilder on September 11, 2016, 11:01:25 PM
Here's a Rangemaster schematic.
This is a negative ground for the enclosure, while the circuit uses positive ground.
The Magnus is designed as a center-negative circuit vs the original Rangemaster which was center-positive. I don't know how this happens exactly, but it's good for me and my power adapters. I must say that the enclosure wiring seemed a little strange to me but it does seems to work.
Looking at the schematic you posted, I have both C5 and C6 oriented right (negative side facing pot lug #1 for C5, and facing the emitter for C6). Unless.... errr.... I'm supposed to flip them because it's now negative ground circuit... in which can I have them backwards?
I can post some pics tomorrow. Appreciate the help. I feel like I'm 95% of the way there and as always, learning a boatload as I go...
I think there is a wiring mistake..
GND of OUT jack should go (via 3PDT switch) to junction of R1 & R2 and NOT to C4..
C4 shoud go to OUT with lug 1 disconected from OUT...
The labelling on the Magnus layout makes it a little difficult, but it looks to me like the output jack tip goes to center left pin (3PDT), the circuit output is the upper left pin and connects to C4. Input jack tip is connected to center pin, and circuit input is the upper center pin connected to C2 and the associated input cap parallel options.
Be sure you are plugging the guitar into the Input jack, and the amp to the output jack- its easy to reverse if wiring the box in accordance to the way its drawn since the box will be upside down!
Maybe I should create a schematic that matches the layout to help me answer some these questions. It's a little unclear to me from the drawing which jack lugs are tip, ring, and sleeve and exactly where the grounds connect on and off/board. I see the blue lines as in/out and how they connect jack/switch/board. I wired green lines as ground on the jacks/switch and also connected to the board as shown. It's not clear to me exactly how the ground-bus connects off-board.
Quote from: Cozybuilder on September 12, 2016, 10:11:50 AM
The labelling on the Magnus layout makes it a little difficult, but it looks to me like the output jack tip goes to center left pin (3PDT), the circuit output is the upper left pin and connects to C4. Input jack tip is connected to center pin, and circuit input is the upper center pin connected to C2 and the associated input cap parallel options.
This is exactly my understanding as well.
Instead of labelling ground connections (which adds to confusion in the Magnus), the power source gives you 0V and 9V, so label your drawing that way. I think you'll find it easier to follow.
There are lots of different jack styles- use your multimeter to verify jack lugs to tip, sleeve, and ring.
Quote from: Cozybuilder on September 12, 2016, 10:50:14 AM
There are lots of different jack styles- use your multimeter to verify jack lugs to tip, sleeve, and ring.
I stared it down and worked it out (tip to in/out = blue lines, sleeve to ground = green lines, ring to battery negative = black line). Pretty sure I wired it this way, but it's now clear to me why.
Quote from: antonis on September 12, 2016, 05:14:59 AM
I think there is a wiring mistake..
GND of OUT jack should go (via 3PDT switch) to junction of R1 & R2 and NOT to C4..
C4 shoud go to OUT with lug 1 disconected from OUT...
Ooooh. I totally see this now. As I said earlier, I couldn't understand where the board ground-bus connected off-board. I see it now. I'll try moving the green line to R1/R2.
The schematic cozy posted is super informative... helped me decode the layout.
Hello,
its my layout and its verified.
I have used the schematic posted in this thread as a basic
and reversed the polarity for a negative-ground circuit.
An rc-network at the dc-jack prevents "motorboating" while using a wallwart.
I have built it two times, one OC44-version and one OC71-version
like you can see on the right side of the layout ;-)
QuoteI think there is a wiring mistake..
GND of OUT jack should go (via 3PDT switch) to junction of R1 & R2 and NOT to C4..
C4 shoud go to OUT with lug 1 disconected from OUT...
No, its just negative ground ;-)
@Squirrel Murphy:Try to get non-polarized-caps where they have to be installed, maybe thats it.
Have you installed the three solder bridges on the pcb?
...and post some pictures of your build please!
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on September 13, 2016, 04:44:21 AM
QuoteI think there is a wiring mistake..
GND of OUT jack should go (via 3PDT switch) to junction of R1 & R2 and NOT to C4..
C4 shoud go to OUT with lug 1 disconected from OUT...
No, its just negative ground ;-)
If so, then I insist on the above written.. :icon_wink:
I don't know if it helps but here's a schematic of the layout minus the 3PDT. Just realised the input cap switch is wrong and the in out jacks are the wrong way round but the important bits are correct.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160913/882f0f90d86f3f295ed74aa17f43d31f.jpg)
The layout looks correct to me just a bit confusing, it confused me anyway, because some of the ground wires are hidden by text.
Quote from: slacker on September 13, 2016, 02:48:52 PM
I don't know if it helps but here's a schematic of the layout
Yes it helps me alot. I studied it, compared to my marked up version of the original schematic Cozy posted, plus my marked up version of Mag's layout. Then I made my own so I could really understand it.
(https://s22.postimg.org/qygdlrlg1/pmc_Magnus_Rangemaster.png)
I moved C5 to the top because it connects to R3 and the pot... but now I'm confused because C5+ is supposed to connect to battery + which is on the bottom where you had it. This confuses me greatly. If R1, R2, C6+, and R4 all connect to ground, then the same rail along the bottom also connects to C5+... but then it all also connects to battery + through R4. If I didn't add R4, then 9V+ is connected to the ground bus. My head hurts. I also don't show Pot-1 and R3 directly grounded like you did (and I see on the layout too)... and this bugs me too because if makes me feel that C5 is grounded on both sides...
Anyway, thank you guys for being patient with me.
As for capacitor orientation, I think I'm OK: in the original schematic, C5 and C6 (the two 47uF ones) are shown a polarized with + legs facing ground. So that schem is positive ground, right? +9V battery goes to input ring and negative battery goes to C5 (negative leg), R3, and Pot1. All opposite of the Magnus negative ground version. This tells me that C5 is oriented correctly for the Magnus circuit (+ to the right, - to the left in the layout). Same logic for C6. So I think the caps are OK the way I installed them.
Someone told me to check the pot and make sure it's sized right.... it's an A10K.
If it matters, I installed 22uf for C6 (approx 25uf at Mag's recommendation and versus 47uF on the original). I used 0.01uF for C4 like the original circuit.
Quote from: Magnus on September 13, 2016, 04:44:21 AM
Try to get non-polarized-caps where they have to be installed, maybe thats it.
Have you installed the three solder bridges on the pcb?
...and post some pictures of your build please!
I don't have an np caps that size, but I can order some I guess. I expect it should work anyway as long as I have them in right.
Solder bridges: I built on pad-per-hole perfboard. I just soldered nodes directly together where they were close (eg. node at C1+C2+C3+R2+R3). I used lead wires to connect across multiple holes (e.g., that same node connecting to Q1-base). In other places where I had some distance to cover, I used jumper wires on top of the board (e.g., Q1-emitter+R1 are soldered together and then jumpered to C6). I jumpered all the way from Pot-1 to the ground-wire coming off the board since it's only a 2-node connection. It's very possible I made a mistake by doing it this way.
pics in the next post...
Pics. Sorry they are not great or easy to see. For the bottom of the board, it's lifted out and flipped toward the toggle switch. C1, 2, and 3 connections to the toggle switch are along column L. Pot connections along the top right and tranny sockets on the far right column Y.
Not my best work, but so far it seems solid and quiet.
Oh... and C7 isn't there. I haven't put it on yet. But I did put R4 on (top far left). Errr... crap I hope that's not my issue. I assumed that since C7 is for power noise reduction it was OK to skip for the moment. The LED CLR (R5) is also on there... far left middle, row H.
(https://s15.postimg.org/65jssp98n/IMG_0530.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/65jssp98n/)
(https://s15.postimg.org/hj6c3wjrb/IMG_0529.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/hj6c3wjrb/)
(https://s15.postimg.org/q2pq1ns3r/IMG_0528.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/q2pq1ns3r/)
I tried to copy this in DIYLC, omitting the off board components and all the extra "dots" because they confuse my eyes and brain.
I think the bottom of the board (note reverse image) should go like this:
(http://i64.tinypic.com/2e4kfev.png)
Top like this with the jumpers and components:
(http://i66.tinypic.com/6xqff4.png)
Here's everything with x-ray vision:
(http://i66.tinypic.com/24zg5df.png)
I see you've done it a little differently but maybe this can help you spot a missing link or something.
Good luck!
Quote from: Ben Lyman on September 14, 2016, 11:51:22 AM
I see you've done it a little differently but maybe this can help you spot a missing link or something.
Thanks! I'll go through it soup to nuts tonight.
I tend to allow for creative latitude with layouts and I'm sure that gets me into trouble. Example: I don't see why that zig-zag trace plus jumper from Pot-1 to the other side of the board is needed. I'm more inclined to find a hole next to the Pot1-R3-C5 junction and solder the off-board wire right there. I didn't in this case, but I used the same logic in several other places.
Think I might switch to PCBs for a while to keep me out of trouble... :)
> My head hurts.
Agree.
The battery-only polarities, for PNP transistor, are clearly like this:
https://s10.postimg.org/a77gm3nah/Squirrel_Murphy.gif
If you want to use this on a common wall-wart with other pedals, without smoke, it gets more head-hurting.
Hello,
@Squirrel Murphy:
You have drawed a mixed version-schematic
of positive and negative-ground, there are some small errors.
QuoteIf R1, R2, C6+, and R4 all connect to ground
They aren't connected to ground.
R1, R2, R4, C5 (+), C6 (+) and C7 (+) are connected to the battery-plus-pole.
QuoteI also don't show Pot-1 and R3 directly grounded like you did (and I see on the layout too)... and this bugs me too because if makes me feel that C5 is grounded on both sides...
Pot 1, R3 and C5 (-) are the only three connections which are grounded.
QuoteAs for capacitor orientation, I think I'm OK: in the original schematic, C5 and C6 (the two 47uF ones) are shown a polarized with + legs facing ground. So that schem is positive ground, right? +9V battery goes to input ring and negative battery goes to C5 (negative leg), R3, and Pot1. All opposite of the Magnus negative ground version.
That's right.
QuoteThis tells me that C5 is oriented correctly for the Magnus circuit (+ to the right, - to the left in the layout). Same logic for C6. So I think the caps are OK the way I installed them.
I think you did it right.
QuoteSomeone told me to check the pot and make sure it's sized right.... it's an A10K.
Yes, 10kOhm Audio (logarithmic).
QuoteIf it matters, I installed 22uf for C6 (approx 25uf at Mag's recommendation and versus 47uF on the original). I used 0.01uF for C4 like the original circuit.
22uF is authentic enough for the OC44-version since every cap has a tolerance.
QuoteI don't have an np caps that size, but I can order some I guess. I expect it should work anyway as long as I have them in right.
I have seen that you have the two right polarized-caps, I thought you had polarized ones for the input-caps too, but you don't - so everything is fine ;-)
QuoteSolder bridges: I built on pad-per-hole perfboard. I just soldered nodes directly together where they were close (eg. node at C1+C2+C3+R2+R3). I used lead wires to connect across multiple holes (e.g., that same node connecting to Q1-base). In other places where I had some distance to cover, I used jumper wires on top of the board (e.g., Q1-emitter+R1 are soldered together and then jumpered to C6). I jumpered all the way from Pot-1 to the ground-wire coming off the board since it's only a 2-node connection. It's very possible I made a mistake by doing it this way.
If you are sure you did it right - no problem with that.
QuoteOh... and C7 isn't there. I haven't put it on yet. But I did put R4 on (top far left). Errr... crap I hope that's not my issue. I assumed that since C7 is for power noise reduction it was OK to skip for the moment. The LED CLR (R5) is also on there... far left middle, row H.
That's no problem, C7 is only needed for quiet wallwart-use, if you want to use one add it later.
QuoteI don't see why that zig-zag trace plus jumper from Pot-1 to the other side of the board is needed.
That's a cosmetical thing.
In the enclosure the pcb is above the jacks
and so theres no wire going on top of the pcb and over the parts.
QuoteThink I might switch to PCBs for a while to keep me out of trouble... :)
Yes, an etched pcb is much easier, you don't get a knot in your head...
btw:
The input-capacitor-switch has to be an ON-OFF-ON-type,
so in the middle position theres no connection
and in the two side-positions always two caps are added.
Here's the corrected schematic:
(http://www.bilder-upload.eu/upload/735cb2-1473927802.jpg)
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on September 15, 2016, 04:18:44 AM
They aren't connected to ground.
R1, R2, R4, C5 (+), C6 (+) and C7 (+) are connected to the battery-plus-pole.
Pot 1, R3 and C5 (-) are the only three connections which are grounded.
OK. I see it now. C5 connects to the top through the ground. It makes sense to me now.
Quote
If you are sure you did it right - no problem with that.
Well, clearly I've made a mistake somewhere! ;)
I'm comfortable with my logic. It's probably a solder bridge or bad/weak solder joint but so far I can't find it. Everything seems to test OK.
You know, I get a degraded continuity beep from C to B legs on the tranny. Does that sound right? I assume that I should have continuity but it's through R3 and the pot so it's degraded. I've looked closely and I did not accidentally bridge C to B with solder.
I'll keep working it until I find the problem. I have enough parts to build another one... so maybe I'll do it on the breadboard as a model and work backwards. Thanks for all your help. And thanks for the very cool layout diagram. It's very nice.
Quote
The input-capacitor-switch has to be an ON-OFF-ON-type,
so in the middle position theres no connection
and in the two side-positions always two caps are added.
Yes, it is. And it tests properly (left 2 on, then middle only, then the right 2).
Quote
Here's the corrected schematic:
Fixed my original which I made with DigiKey's SchemeIt:
(https://s16.postimg.org/sr11jtkhx/pmc_schematic.jpg)
Hello,
QuoteYou know, I get a degraded continuity beep from C to B legs on the tranny. Does that sound right?
Sorry - I don't know but maybe another guy here can tell you more about those measuring-data...
QuoteI'll keep working it until I find the problem.
That's DIY ;)
QuoteI have enough parts to build another one... so maybe I'll do it on the breadboard as a model and work backwards.
Good idea!
QuoteThanks for all your help.
No problem, always again ;)
QuoteAnd thanks for the very cool layout diagram. It's very nice.
Thank you :)
QuoteFixed my original which I made with DigiKey's SchemeIt
Perfect!
Did you try another transistor?
btw: Don't solder germanium-transistors, they don't like too much heat...
Please let me know how your project goes ;)
Greetings and good luck!
Magnus
squirrel - you don't want to measure continuity across a transistor junction, you want to measure continuity between the transistor legs and the parts they are supposed to be connected to. if you reverse the probes, you will probably get no continuity across that same transistor junction.
and magnus - I don't want to sound like a total duck, but your switch is drawn as an on-on-on. if you want to convey it's on-off-on-edness, you'd leave the centre position dot unconnected with the swinging/arrow pointing to it, and the cap that is allays in circuit (C1?) would then connect from the Q1 base around the switch to its common.
Hello,
@duck_arse:
Thank you - good to know - I can read and convert schematics, but I'm more the layout guy ;)
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on September 17, 2016, 08:49:38 AM
Did you try another transistor?
btw: Don't solder germanium-transistors, they don't like too much heat...
Sorry... been out of town for a week. Back now.
Didn't solder... tranny is socketed.
I just tried another and discovered that I've had the tranny in BACKWARDS all along! I had checked it previously, so I'm not sure how that happened.
With them in backwards, the pedal plays smoothly and the frequency ranges are clearly differentiated when toggling between them. But unity seems to be past 10 on the pot (i.e., the pedal is an anti-booster).
With the tranny flipped (collector to pot3 and emitter to R1), the sound is louder, but it's crackly, sustain fails quickly, and it seems unstable. Sounds terrible. It's very sensitive to attack... super loud at the first of a strong attack and then very rapid drop-off or empty spaces in the note. More fuzz/distortion than the other way around. The input-cap toggle switch seems to still work the same, but it's not as obvious because the signal breaks up easily. It can sound OK with the amp pushed to distort, but I'm mostly testing on clean so I can hear what the pedal is doing. I think it may be that it sounds OK with the amp distorted because the distortion is covering up the signal problems with the pedal.
New measures using a wall-wart (instead of battery):
C: -6.51V
B: -6.51V
E: -6.64V
Emitter is where it should be now...
Might just be bad soldering / weak connection at this point? Maybe time to build an audio probe.
Hello,
try a second build on perfboard as you had planned ;)
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on September 24, 2016, 01:42:32 PM
try a second build on perfboard as you had planned ;)
Actually, I think I'm going to build a stock Rangemaster first so I can clearly see how it's supposed to behave. Then I can build another Magnus / continue to troubleshoot this one.
I was going to use this layout (http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/dallas-rangemaster.html) because it seems like it'd be difficult to fail. :)
I'll post results back here...
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5GZ4jthoyJ8/T5HeolG0hmI/AAAAAAAABQw/2T2zRVJz3l4/s1600/Dallas+Rangemaster+with+trimmer.png)
Quote from: duck_arse on September 17, 2016, 11:41:59 AM
squirrel - you don't want to measure continuity across a transistor junction, you want to measure continuity between the transistor legs and the parts they are supposed to be connected to. if you reverse the probes, you will probably get no continuity across that same transistor junction.
This is incidental. I do check from part to part (to test for good solder connections where they are supposed to be). What I was doing was looking for a solder bridge on the board where it wasn't supposed to be. So I probe between the solder blobs for continuity. With those two points, I got weakish continuity which I assumed was going through the circuit (because I couldn't see a bridge and wasn't hearing a strong beep). I later pulled the tranny and checked again and there's no continuity at all between solder points. So I was getting continuity THRU the tranny which is not what I wanted to measure as you indicate. But there ain't a solder bridge either and I now know that.
It's habit of mine to use a convenient point that I already know is continuous with where I want to measure. So am guilty of measuring from the actual tranny leg too. I figure I'm testing "from the horses mouth" by including the tranny leg + socket + solder blob instead of starting from the solder blob itself. It seems that this could get me into trouble. I do the same with ground, often opting for the enclosure because it's super easy to find a good probe point (i.e., everywhere).
Bad habits?
testing from the transistor leg instead of from the solder blob may well be a good diagnostic tool. you do want continuity all the way to the tranny, after all, and sockets are just another potential problem in the chain.
> C: -6.51V
> B: -6.51V
> E: -6.64V
> Emitter is where it should be now...
No. It can't amplify audio with all three pins at the *same* voltage.
You expect B and E near each other and C several volts different.
C and B at the same voltage within 0.01V strongly suggests a short.
Quote from: PRR on September 26, 2016, 09:32:02 PM
C and B at the same voltage within 0.01V strongly suggests a short
Paul, that's what I was thinking. For the sake of my own learning, is there also the possibility of a transistor going bad and shorting internally?
Quote from: PRR on September 26, 2016, 09:32:02 PM
No. It can't amplify audio with all three pins at the *same* voltage.
You expect B and E near each other and C several volts different.
C and B at the same voltage within 0.01V strongly suggests a short.
Maybe it was me and my testing... somehow screwed up. I retested using a wall wart (at 9.28V).
C: 6.51V
B: 9.16V
E: 6.64V
Different numbers. I guess I probed B as C last time because there's no short there (checked a few times). But this isn't B and E near each other either.
I'm going to look for an incorrectly sized resistor or cap. This thing plays all farty...
I hope you guys don't mind "learning along with Squirrel"....
I built and boxed this version (http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.com/2012/04/dallas-rangemaster.html) over the last two nights. It took me a while to figure out how to wire for positive ground but I got it. Works great and I really like the sound although I don't think it sounds best biased with C at 7V. I did it to compare to the broken Magnus so I know what to expect from a working circuit. I soldered in the OC-44 and it's my last one... so I can't easily swap it into the Magnus as "known good".. but I don't think that's the problem anyway (I previously swapped this one in).
Measurements using -9.43V battery:
B: -1.09V
E: -0.99V
C: -6.85V
This matches what PRR says I should expect and I can easily bias C to 6.5V to 7.2 or so with the trimpot.
Input cap is different than the Magnus (4.7nF versus 5.5nF (2.2+3.3)) and R1 is variable with the trimpot.... but otherwise it's the same circuit so should work similarly despite the very different layouts.
I am noticing that C5 and C6 are oriented the same way in both circuits... so maybe I have the caps in the Magnus backwards after all.
(http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-5GZ4jthoyJ8/T5HeolG0hmI/AAAAAAAABQw/2T2zRVJz3l4/s1600/Dallas+Rangemaster+with+trimmer.png)
(https://s12.postimg.org/m1cu82tnx/Dallas_Rangemaster_Sep_27_2016.jpg)
Hello,
very good - be proud of it ;)
Do you try to get my layout working or do you install this new version into your enclosure?
...I would be interested to see the final pedal :)
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on September 29, 2016, 02:32:33 AM
Do you try to get my layout working or do you install this new version into your enclosure?
...I would be interested to see the final pedal :)
I plan to enclose both (2 pedals). I will post results here for you to see.
I think my soldering is sometimes inconsistent and this can be causing me troubles. I have 3 wonky pedals at the moment. :)
Fixed!
I've been having troubles with intermittent circuits that work when jostled, but otherwise are flaky. Wiggle wires and they wake up until bumped again. I thought it was maybe my soldering technique. Someone suggested I dump the 15W iron for a hotter one. In the closet sits a 50W variable station that I don't use because the 15 is always handy. I pulled out the hotter iron and re-flowed all of the connections, adding a little solder here and there. Boom! the pedal first up and seems to work great! It still doesn't boost as much as the simple version I posted, but it boosts and it sounds great! I didn't even bother to measure the voltages yet...
Add C7 to combat noise and cased it...
Thanks all! Special thanks to Magnus for offering up the layout, specs, instructions, and guidance.
I'll post pics once I finish the enclosures... but it might be a long time. I work slowly.
Hi everyone. We had some warm weather this Feb so I could go outside and spray. This allowed me to finish these pedals. As promised, I'm posting here.
First the fully working and wonderful Magnus. I run it with a power supply and no battery and it runs quietly. Here's a general description:
QuoteDallas Rangemaster treble booster using the Magnus circuit design. Germanium OC-44 PNP transistor; switchable input capacitors for a variable high-pass filter ranging from treble boost to full-range. "Classic" matches the original 1960s design. Designed for a negative ground circuit. Socketed transistor so I can try different transistors. Yellow LED.
I had some trouble with the waterslide (my printer skipped and smeared a little). It was consistently doing it, so I decided to live with it rather than keep wrecking waterslide paper. It also rippled a little after drying. I call it vintage spray clear over it anyway. I think I'll try an etch next time but I feel like I should pretty much expect a high fail rate there too.
(https://s16.postimg.org/p0r2sxf05/DSCF3731_P.jpg)
Gut shot. I use a business card under the circuit board to keep from shorting on the pot. The same with the top side. I need to shrink-wrap the LED lead because it's a good shorting opportunity. But otherwise I think it's fairly solid albeit not very professional.
(https://s16.postimg.org/dad5bjm7p/DSCF3733_P.jpg)
Nice one Squirrel.
Here's the other one I built to compare to the Magnus' functionality. Modeled after the original in terms of face color, font, and labels.
QuoteDallas Rangemaster clone using original circuit design as per Tagboardeffects. Germanium OC-44 PNP transistor. Positive ground circuit. Kept it simple with battery power and no DC jack or LED. Biased to 7V with the 5k trimmer.
I had the same waterslide problems. Not much smearing on this, but you can see the skips. I'm hoping it will age nicely and have a vintage-ish vibe. The tranny legs should probably be wrapped to prevent shorts. I purposefully left the legs long so I can bend it over and get the back cover on. They don't short, but there's a risk for down the road. Trimmed business cards are sitting loose under and over the board to prevent shorting on the back cover or the pot. Not super professional, but effective.
(https://s16.postimg.org/m2u3z87cl/DSCF3740_P.jpg)
(https://s16.postimg.org/arrgav0hh/DSCF3738_P.jpg)
Hello,
nice to hear from you my friend - great builds :)
...and my name on your pedal :icon_redface:
Greetings
Magnus