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Dear fellow builders,

I'm working on a pedal for a good friend. She has the following wish: switch the effect on/off with a TRS output (momentary). When the momentary switch is pressed (Carlton switch 1 pole OFF-(ON) SLDR) the effect should come on. When the switch is off, the original sound (dry) should be audible.

Does anyone have an idea how I can accomplish this?

Sofia  :)

It's not immediately clear what the "TRS output" is for.  Are you trying to provide momentary switching of a stereo pedal?

Or do you perhaps want to replace the bypass switch using a TRS jack, to a remote switch?

Momentary = non latching connection
TRS = tip, ring, sleeve (AKA stereo jack/cable)
Your question is crossing two things that don't go together.

By the sound of it, your friend either wants a remote bypass/effects option or a simple no-click switch mod.
I can't make tails of which one you're asking for  :icon_cry:

Paring the info down, TRS jack doesn't seem to matter. If you're building it and have room for a momentary, you might connect it in series between the input and a pull down resistor so when it isn't connected the circuit input has a ground connection to help keep noise out. If it's in the middle of a chain of effects and the want to remove it, a DPDT momentary (normally off) set as a bypass may be the way.

I could be wrong of course

Thanks for all the responses. Sorry for my unclear explanation. I will try to explain it more.

The schematic consists of a JMK Panner that works as a blend.

(https://i.postimg.cc/d71RN8YD/panner.png) (https://postimg.cc/d71RN8YD)

The schematic is switched on with a True Bypass 3PDT switch. She would also like to have the option to have a "momentary" option in addition to the "always on" option. The housing has a TRS output jack. Could I adjust the schematic so that she can switch on the schematic with that TRS output jack momentary (by using an external switch).

So TRS switched on (tip/ring connected) is effect on.
So TRS switched off (tip/ring interrupted) is effect off.

Reason: she has a switch on her pedalboard with an BIG knob ;D  This is easier to operate than the small 3PDT switch.

Hopefully my question is clearer now? Thanks!

Sophia  :)

You need to define what the Big Knob Switch type actually is. Is it a momentary normally open type or normally closed type. Is it in fact a momentary switch.?
Also there appears to be 4 jacks already in the circuit,
1/ Input
2/ Output
3/ Send
4/ Return
Do you intend to make it a 5 jack box with the addition of an extra Stereo Jack with Tip/Ring/Sleeve to facilitate your Bypass switch intentions?


(https://i.postimg.cc/K1yTfKPT/panner.png) (https://postimg.cc/K1yTfKPT)

Now you just need to figure how to get your momentary Bypass working

Perhaps the following might suffice, Although I feel you would still get the blended effect coming through along with the original signal bypassed, which wouldn't be a true bypass, and not the desired outcome.
If you could incorporate a DPDT Relay into the mix that was activated from the Momentary N/O, then you could likely achieve the right outcome.


(https://i.postimg.cc/HcKWH4Mj/panner-2.png) (https://postimg.cc/HcKWH4Mj)

Thanks both for your help!

Quote from: bluelagoon on June 27, 2024, 03:07:16 AMYou need to define what the Big Knob Switch type actually is. Is it a momentary normally open type or normally closed type. Is it in fact a momentary switch.?

Normally open, like this:

(https://i.postimg.cc/gw540vYx/1pst-momentary-footswitch.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/gw540vYx)

Quote from: bluelagoon on June 27, 2024, 03:07:16 AMDo you intend to make it a 5 jack box with the addition of an extra Stereo Jack with Tip/Ring/Sleeve to facilitate your Bypass switch intentions?

Correct.

Quote from: bluelagoon on June 27, 2024, 03:07:16 AMNow you just need to figure how to get your momentary Bypass working

That's my question!  ;D

Back in 2006 I posted something that may help you out. https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=48813.msg362251#msg362251

It won't allow you to use a momentary switch to control your box, but it does let you bring in the effect momentarily with a dpdt momentary switch, and also take it out momentarily with the same switch.

Hey Sophia, If your still about and interested in a solution to your switching dilemma, I finally got to finish putting together a schematic for you.

Here it is, a working unit of what you wanted to achieve. All it really takes if you are up for it is to get rid of the 3PDT Foot switch, purchase a few extra reasonably cheap components for the new type Micro Controlled Relay Switching Scheme added to the original Panner FX circuit.

The main component needed is the Pre Programmed VFE PIC12F509 Micro Controller. I believe they may still be available for purchase at MadBeans Pedals on the internet. Or if you were in Australia I could easy send one your way.

There's not a lot of extra reworking to be done, you might easily fit the micro controller relay switching circuit onto a smaller separate prototype pcb board. and wire it up adjoining the Panner effect PCB accordingly.

Then you get the external momentary extra jack fitted that will allow for momentary depression on that external switch to deactivate the FX and go to Bypass mode for duration of the switch pressed down.


(https://i.postimg.cc/bZwRjXRP/panner-2.png) (https://postimg.cc/bZwRjXRP)


(https://i.postimg.cc/Xr77cWwT/VFE-Momentary-Mode-FX-Bypass.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Xr77cWwT)

My main aim was just to provide a suitable solution to the switching dilemma faced by Sophia in the OP.
I think this slight mod to the VFE switching scheme fits the bill okay.
Just wondering if the R12 1M pulldown on the output is possibly a bit of excess overkill ?
The Zener diode could likely be omitted as both the regulator and the op amp are both capable to 30V DC
Please chime in all you knowledgeable folk if you see where something could better be suited to the overall circuit.

Hope this might help Sophia, Although it could be a bit of a challenge.
Will leave it with you.

You don't need a computer chip or programming skills for this job.   ;D

Insert a CD4051 analog switch (Costs about $0.32USD) just before the output jack.  Connect one of its common terminals (the chip contains 3 SPDT switches) to the output jack.  Connect one input of the same switch to the "S" signal in your circuit, and the other CD4053 input to the signal which was formerly the output.  Wire your external control input with a pull-up, and make the external switch short that external input to ground.  Connect that control signal to the CD4053 control input.  If you've wired the "S" signal and the normal output signal to the right switch inputs, when the external switch is not plugged in, the CD4053 will allow the pedal to act normally.  If you plug in the switch and press it, it bypasses the effect.  Release the switch, and the effect acts normally.

If that's not the logic you want, you could play a trick with your TRS jack.  If you plug in a TS plug (no "Ring" contact; i.e. mono instead of stereo plug) it will short the tip and ring contacts together in your TRS.  That could connect a low-resistance pulldown which overcomes the pullup resistor.  Then, wire the tip contact to +9V.  This arrrangement lets the pedal "Act normal" when no external switch is plugged in.  Plug in the switch, and it bypasses the effect.  Step on the switch, and it engages the effect.

Thanks for the heads up, but I cant follow too easy the dialogue, I follow schematics of these relative simple circuits much better.
There is always a better mousetrap. But I like the one I put up, it switches and works for what the design called for, tested and all.
So please draw me a picture, then we have something to compare.
And PS: I dont know much about multiplexors, but I am sure they like all the rest solutions likely come with their own set of problems and nuance inefficiencies. Tell me it isn't so, Go draw me picture.
You might be right, I could comprehend better where your coming from with a schem type diagram.
There is a good article over on RG's Geofex site about the multiplexors.

Geofex Multiplexor Switching (http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/cd4053/cd4053.htm)

Never personally experimented with them. Sure they have a use and a place for using.
Cheers.

.

(https://postimg.cc/V5L1c99J)

(https://i.postimg.cc/V5L1c99J/Bypass.png) (https://postimg.cc/V5L1c99J)

Thanks Jorg777 for the pic of circuit using the CD4053, looks interesting, might get one on to a breadboard and see what it does.
With the control where it states +9v = Normal and 0v = Bypass is this meant to be a toggle switch between those 2 voltages to alternate the momentary switch function to either bypass on when effect is in, and opposite of effect as momentary when in bypass ?
Just need some clarification,
If I get it onto the breadboard, am sure can figure a few things out how it works.
And I guess it would need an insulated Ground jack as the external switch input socket to avoid direct ground to the box.
Looks like quite an easy concept to achieve the end result, like you said, and so much easier understood in image form than the directions you gave earlier, for myself at least.
Cheers

Yeah I should have just started out with an image.   ::)  You are correct about using an insulated socket for the control input!

What I intend the behavior to be:

With nothing plugged into the control socket, the effect is always engaged.
If you plug in the external switch, the effect only engages while you step on the external switch.  When you release the switch, the effect is bypassed.

Late to the party but here's an AVR microcontroller solution that'll provide an alternate way to achieve the same goal: https://github.com/mstratman/relay-bypass (https://github.com/mstratman/relay-bypass)

You can hook up two momentary foot switches, one in the pedal, and one remote via a jack. They both operate the same: Tap to toggle between engaged and bypassed, or hold down one of the switches to momentarily toggle, then release to toggle back.

I feel like the goal has been woefully misunderstood.

Quote from: jorg777 on July 08, 2024, 03:32:46 PMWith nothing plugged into the control socket, the effect is always engaged.
If you plug in the external switch, the effect only engages while you step on the external switch. 

This can be achieved with a normalling or other kind of switching TS or a basic TRS jack. Absolutely no need for a uC.
The actual bypassing can be done with relays or CMOS MUXes as usual.

Quote from: FiveseveN on July 09, 2024, 11:55:17 AMI feel like the goal has been woefully misunderstood.

That's a restatement of proposed solution. The goal as I understood it is to allow momentary usage of the pedal remotely.

QuoteThis can be achieved with a normalling or other kind of switching TS or a basic TRS jack. Absolutely no need for a uC.
The actual bypassing can be done with relays or CMOS MUXes as usual.

Sure, there are lots of ways to skin a cat. "No need for a uC" implies it's somehow worse? By what metric? Your familiarity?

It's equally cheap and simple. Even simpler if you buy it off-the-shelf (though obviously less cheap). You can have the pedal up and running in 4 minutes.

There's nothing wrong with having additional options, especially for folks who stumble on this thread via google looking for related solutions.

Quote from: mark2 on July 09, 2024, 12:03:08 PMIt's equally cheap and simple.

My brother in Jeebus,
I am very familiar with uCs and use them all the time. I'm saying one isn't needed to turn on a relay (or mux), the remote switch can do that all by itself.
In what Universe is literally nothing (or maybe a pullup resistor) "equally cheap and simple" as a whole ass microcontroller?!

Well by all means if you have a helpful solution, you should post it rather than a hand-wavy assertion and an exercise left to the reader. And to be clear, I don't disagree: It probably can be a lot simpler.

But my addition to the thread was in the context of other solutions utilizing uC's, CD4053/CD4051, etc. I thought, and still think, it was helpful to have an alternate similar-cost option that had the added benefit of working off-the-shelf with zero knowledge required.

There are oh so many latching circuits in existence.
Using an MCU here is like putting on a suit & tie to eat at Denny's.
While the only requirement is shoes and a shirt.

In hopes of summer Donna, you're both right! Simplicity is great but so are options! As a lurker turned member, I can testify!

Quote from: jorg777 on July 05, 2024, 10:03:52 AM(https://i.postimg.cc/V5L1c99J/Bypass.png) (https://postimg.cc/V5L1c99J)

Thank you all for your response. Due to family circumstances I was unable to respond earlier. My hobby came to a standstill for a while. Fortunately, I now have some more time.

@Jorg777, I tried to make your post and drawing clear to myself. I just don't understand how to implement the CD4053. Can you connect the missing wires for me?

@Bluelagoon, have you tried to breadboard the suggestion of Jorg777? If so, did it work?


(https://i.postimg.cc/3yMw9gJ6/pannerv3.png) (https://postimg.cc/3yMw9gJ6)


Sophia  :)

Hi Sophia, No haven't had the time to get on to using the 4053, as Jorg had suggested, In theory looking at how he has it working makes sense that it would work,
There is a good article from RG Keen over at Geofex, where he explains using the 4053 for switching along with a few tips how to get the best performance from them,
Bypass Switching using CD4053 (http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/cd4053/cd4053.htm)
Hopefully Jorg or someone knowledgeable can explain the concept behind using as Jorg had suggested, might be the simplest way to achieve what you were looking for.
Good Luck with it.

Quote from: bluelagoon on August 12, 2024, 11:49:09 AMHi Sophia, No haven't had the time to get on to using the 4053, as Jorg had suggested, In theory looking at how he has it working makes sense that it would work,
There is a good article from RG Keen over at Geofex, where he explains using the 4053 for switching along with a few tips how to get the best performance from them,
Bypass Switching using CD4053 (http://www.geofex.com/article_folders/cd4053/cd4053.htm)
Hopefully Jorg or someone knowledgeable can explain the concept behind using as Jorg had suggested, might be the simplest way to achieve what you were looking for.
Good Luck with it.

To vouch;
I've just implemented the CD4053 switching into a small stone that I've been picking at.
Works as advertised - though I split one CD4049 into 3 flipflop circuits and drove the LEDs with transistors on each output - one had dual LEDs for A/B switching via an NPN and PNP transistor *an example of how flexible the design can be*

Edit:
Sophia, what is your plan for the circuit board? Like, what style proto board are you going to use or do you plan to draw a PCB layout?
I can draw up something for your efforts. Just need to know your preference.

Hi Kevin,

I have experience with KiCad and have (successfully) made a number of PCBs myself. However, my knowledge stops at coming up with new schematics. I need an existing, clear schematic. I don't have enough knowledge to creatively link schemes together. Hence my request to Jorg777 to make slightly clearer drawing of how exactly I should connect the CD4053 together with the TRS jack and the Panner schematic.

Sophia  :)

Okay, fair enough.
So we understand correctly (too many cooks can ruin the meal)

You want to add no-click bypass as well as a remote switch via a stereo jack (TRS) to actuate the bypass/effect of the Panner pedal. Correct?

Have to know for sure.
-The BIG knob is a remote pedal with a normally-open momentary foot switch connected to the tip and ring of a stereo jack with nothing else? Are these connections confirmed?
*I know nothing about the pedal*

-You mentioned an "always on" switch. Are you open to drilling into the box to add another switch or do you have any other thoughts on how you'd like this to be implemented?

Curious; are you modifying an existing panner pedal or trying to incorporate these things into a new build/pcb layout your working up?

I can throw a schematic together tonight once I have the facts straight.

Hi Kevin,

No problem!

I have the following wishes:

-The effect is switched on with a 3pdt switch. Nothing special about this.
-It is intended for a bass guitar. That's why I want to implement the Panner. This allows the player to choose 100% dry, 50/50%, 100% wet or something in between (with a potentiometer). With a bass you often want a bit of dryness in the sound, especially with effects such as a Big Muff. I have combined the Panner several times with various schemes and am very satisfied with this.
- In addition to the Panner, I would also like to have the option to bypass the Panner and momentary switch to 100% wet. For example with an envelope filter. One can think of a song where the bass needs an envelope effect in some parts, but the rest of the time just a clean dry sound. In summary, I actually want to expand the Panner scheme whereby I go to 100% wet with a momentary switch.

So:
- Momentary switch open: Panner
- Momentary switch closed: bypass Panner and get a 100% wet effect signal.

This gives a lot of freedom. For example, I could set the Panner to 100% dry (so no effect). With the external momentary switch closed I then go to 100% wet. I could also set the Panner to 50/50% and with the momentary switch I go to 100% wet to get an extra effect boost at certain moments.

Then the hardware. It should look something like this:
(https://i.postimg.cc/30J1QLBr/question1.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/30J1QLBr)

Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on August 12, 2024, 04:38:17 PMYou want to add no-click bypass as well as a remote switch via a stereo jack (TRS) to actuate the bypass/effect of the Panner pedal. Correct?

See my explanation above. The no-click bypass via a stereo jack (TRS) to bypass the Panner pedal and get a 100% wet signal.

Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on August 12, 2024, 04:38:17 PMThe BIG knob is a remote pedal with a normally-open momentary foot switch connected to the tip and ring of a stereo jack with nothing else? Are these connections confirmed?

Correct.

Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on August 12, 2024, 04:38:17 PMYou mentioned an "always on" switch. Are you open to drilling into the box to add another switch or do you have any other thoughts on how you'd like this to be implemented?

See my beautiful Picasso drawing ;D It's all custom made.

Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on August 12, 2024, 04:38:17 PMCurious; are you modifying an existing panner pedal or trying to incorporate these things into a new build/pcb layout your working up?

Incorporate these things into a new build/pcb layout.

Let me know if anything is still unclear. Thank you very much for the help!

Sophia  :)

Okay! I'm sure at first a few of us had our heads spinning (guilty). Your photo helps a ton though I have to ask, did you leave out the send & return jacks by mistake? -Just want to be sure I'm not missing something.

So you want;
A-3PDT on the looper - when off you get only clean signal as the panner circuit is totally bypassed.
B-Momentary remote switch for 100% wet signal - which will of course only work when the looper circuit is switched on.

Question on A:
Would you be apposed to having a no-click switch for bypassing the looper? The CD4053 has 3 SPDT switches built in - we can use the other portions to bypass/disengage the panner.

Question on B:
-The way you describe it, it's as if the remote switch has no latching effect and only provides 100% wet signal while the switch is depressed. I'd guess this isn't what you want but that's how I'm reading it.
-Assuming the above is not correct, you want the momentary remote to have supporting latching circuit and is used simply as a luxury (which is why I came up with question A, no-click luxury all around).
-Or, do you want the option for both latching and non latching? We can add a toggle to the panner pedal for this - so in one mode the remote latches the wet signal to 100% and in the other mode it's only 100% wet while the remote switch is held down.

I have most of the circuit drawn up in Kicad. Just need to know your preferences.

Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on August 13, 2024, 08:12:59 AMOkay! I'm sure at first a few of us had our heads spinning (guilty). Your photo helps a ton though I have to ask, did you leave out the send & return jacks by mistake? -Just want to be sure I'm not missing something.

I don't blame you. English is not my native language and it is difficult to translate my idea into words. A drawing helps, hopefully. The send and return jacks are not missing, because the Panner + effect (for example envelop or Big Muff) are located in the same enclosure! I use SMD so PCB space is not an issue for me. Note: I did not draw the DC jack and wiring, but it's there of course. This helps? My main question is how to connect the pink/purple wires and include the CD4053 into the schematic?

(https://i.postimg.cc/NKWBGfjS/question2.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NKWBGfjS)

Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on August 13, 2024, 08:12:59 AMSo you want;
A-3PDT on the looper - when off you get only clean signal as the Panner circuit is totally bypassed.
B-Momentary remote switch for 100% wet signal - which will of course only work when the looper circuit is switched on.

Correct!

Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on August 13, 2024, 08:12:59 AMQuestion on A:
Would you be apposed to having a no-click switch for bypassing the looper? The CD4053 has 3 SPDT switches built in - we can use the other portions to bypass/disengage the panner.

Sounds like a nice solution, but more complicated. I prefer to use the simple 3pdt solution for now and perhaps use your suggestion as the next challenge. By "looper" I assume you mean the yellow/sand colored enclosure and not the red enclosure, right?

Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on August 13, 2024, 08:12:59 AMQuestion on B:
-The way you describe it, it's as if the remote switch has no latching effect and only provides 100% wet signal while the switch is depressed.

This is what I had in mind and I would be very happy if it worked like this

Quote from: Kevin Mitchell on August 13, 2024, 08:12:59 AMOr, do you want the option for both latching and non latching? We can add a toggle to the panner pedal for this - so in one mode the remote latches the wet signal to 100% and in the other mode it's only 100% wet while the remote switch is held down.

That sounds even better! if it doesn't make this too complicated then that would be my preference.

Sophia  :)

I typed looper by mistake - meant panner.
Converting the panner's bypass switch to no-click is rather trivial - especially since we'll have unused circuitry leftover from the remote switch circuit to facilitate this. I'll draw up options for both for you to consider.

Be back later with a pic & kicad file.

Just playing with the idea before I add it to the kicad schem (I'm away from my workshop PC);

I spoke too soon about the panner's no-click bypass addition - have to use 2/3 of the CD4053 for the initial remote idea.
Though adding another isn't asking for much, I'll keep it simple for now.
I've thrown together a simulation to test my idea. Falstad glitches aside, it should work as intended.
Of course, the kicad drawing will show the complete circuit with all connections.

https://tinyurl.com/2d29pcpe
(https://i.postimg.cc/1XjNPS5F/panner-sw-itcher.png)

I've done two versions and included an LED for both.
First is per your simple request - non-latching.
Then one with a latching circuit and switch to make it non-latching - per the simulation I did earlier (it's also what I had used myself recently).


Non Latching
(https://i.postimg.cc/HVKMwdpn/Panner-Non-Latching-Remote.png) (https://postimg.cc/HVKMwdpn)
kicad schem file here (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1Ol4JWR3RouG5v20vYQ-X2vMEO-fC3W8_/view?usp=sharing)

Latching
(https://i.postimg.cc/Z9YJ0v1d/Panner-Latching-Remote.png) (https://postimg.cc/Z9YJ0v1d)
kicad schem file here (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1OzrpFW1JWJDhqZvYosWjErWkjLurz9A6/view?usp=sharing)

I suggest that you breadboard it first to make sure that the switch order is correct. I think I have it right though.
Let me know if you have any questions & good luck with your project!

Awesome Kevin! I don't have a CD4053/CD4049 in stock. I'm going to order it and then test the setup on a breadboard. To be continued! This may take a while. Thanks in advance for all the effort you've put in.

Sophia  :)

Here I am again.

I found some time to make the schematic on a breadboard. I used a ON/ON Momentary Toggle for the moment (instead of the TRS jack/footswitch). The results:

- I made an effect (envelope). Works.
- I made the Panner. Works.
- Effect + Panner. Works
- Effect + Panner + non-latching. Works. (Thanks Kevin!!!)
- Effect + Panner + latching. This is where it goes wrong...

With the Latching schematic almost everything works, except when the switch is in the non-latching position. When the Ring/Tip are connected to each other the effect is completely gone and a loud noise can be heard. The LED sometimes also shows a delay. The momentary switch is then back in the original position but the loud noise can still be heard for a short moment. When the switch is in the latching position everything works properly in combination with the momentary switch.

I have checked the schematic several times. I see no errors on the breadboard. Did I connect the switch correctly? Any other ideas?

(https://i.postimg.cc/njDNJrms/problem.png) (https://postimg.cc/njDNJrms)

Sophia  :)

Your diagram looks right.
I wonder if I was wrong about the non-latching mod idea in my second schematic and it's causing the inverters to oscillate while the mom switch is pressed :icon_redface:

An idea for redemption;
If this oscillation is happening at a high frequency, I wonder if a low pass filter could be the easiest fix. Instead of the switch signal coming from pin 15 of the 4049 and going straight into the 4053 & buffer/led part, insert a 1K resistor followed by a 1uF to ground (a low pass filter) - these are values I would start with but may require tweaking - such as raising the cap value.


A viable workaround would ultimately be using a DP3T switch to more-or-less switch between the two schematics I had provided - I can draw that if you'd like. Plus, it's sure to work.
I'd try the low-pass idea first.


I'll think on it a bit more for a more simple solution.

Hi Kevin,

I built a low pass filter into the schematic. I notice a big improvement, but I'm not satisfied yet. A soft sound is still heard. I have tried various resistor/capacitor combinations, up to 47uF and 10K. No luck.

May I ask you to draw the 3dpt switch suggestion?

Sophia  :)

I definitely meant a 3PDT switch - like the common stomp switch configuration :icon_lol:
It's just a matter of switching out the latching circuit's output for a pullup and repurposing the tip & ring connections to GND and the pullup node.

I'll put up the schematic for you shortly. Sorry about that!

Here you go!
(https://i.postimg.cc/vgssw3GV/Panner-Latching-Mom-Remote.png) (https://postimg.cc/vgssw3GV)

tested and it works! Thanks Kevin!!!

Two additional questions:

1) When using the momentary switch, a "click/pop" sound can be heard. This is not due to the switch. Tested multiple switches and also a simple wire. Any idea what this click-sound could be due to?

2) At the moment the situation is as follows:
- Panner is set. For example, 0/100% wet/dry or 50/50% wet/dry. By switching the momentary switch it becomes 100% wet. Exactly as I asked.

What should the schedule look like if it had been: 100% dry regardless of the Panner setting. Using the momentary switch activates the Panner setting. For example 50/50. In fact, this is the exact opposite of what I have now.

May I ask you to make a diagram that accomplishes this?

Sophia  :)

About the non-latching doing the wrong action;
Look at it this way - what you have is equivalent to an upside-down DPDT. Since this isn't a switch you can physically spin 180° to correct, you'll have to swap the "throw" connections on the CD4053 pins. Pin 12 with 13 and 2 with 1.

The popping;
You could...
-Add 1M pulldown resistors (to GND) to the switch pins of the 4053. Add them to the poles (pins 14 & 15). You can also try this with the throws (12,13,2 & 1) to see if that helps.
-Add 2.2uF capacitors per the GEOFEX drawing. These are ideal for switching audio signals but I wasn't sure if they were necessary for this idea.

If you didn't know;
The way I set up your 100% wet signal is by emulating the potentiometer in such a position - one side to 0v and the other to a 10K to 0v - which is the same as the 10K pot set to 100% wet. You can adjust these connections however you'd like. So, say if you wanted to force 50/50 wet/dry in that setting rather than 100/0, you would instead use two ~5K resistors to 0v on each side instead of the 10K on one and 0v on the other.

The information I've provided here is more than enough for you to experiment and perform any changes on your own. We are of course on the side-lines to answer any questions  ;D
I'll redraw if necessary as a curtesy - but I'd rather it be an opportunity for you to understand the circuit so you can comfortably modify it to your preference.

Just a reminder:
Don't forget that there are two left-over inverter buffer channels (the 4049). You also have an option to use those to reverse the latching position as well as the LED status (consider this basic computational logic). There's also one more SPDT channel left on the 4053 if you choose to use it for anything.

Hello Kevin and other DIY enthusiasts,

I have been working on this schematic for a while now. It works exactly as I hoped. Thanks for all the help.

However, there is one problem I can't seem to solve, the "pop" sound when switching on the momentary switch. I have tried:
- Different switches / direct wires instead of momentary switch
- Pin 14 with 1M to GND, Pin 15 with 1M to GND
- Same for pins 1, 2, 12 and 13
- Same for pins 9, 10 and 11
- A 1M, 2.2uF, 1M before pin 14 as suggested by GEOFEX
- Same for pin 15

So far nothing helps. The "pop" sound when switching remains.

Any other suggestions?

Sophia  :)

Additional:

- I have adjusted the schematic to the Non-Latching schematic (without the CD4049). Still a pop sound can be heard. So CD4049 is not the cause for the problem.
- I connected the Panner send (to the effect) and the Panner return (of the effect) directly. Still a pop sound can be heard.

So the problem is somewhere in the Panner / CD4053 part of the schematic.

Anyone?

Sophia  :)

See this thread  (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=120006.msg1122277#msg1122277)
There was an image purge so schematics are reposted, but it may help

Hi Matthew,

Thanks for the effort. I looked at the schematics you sent. To be honest, I don't have enough DIY knowledge to figure out a solution from this. Could you be a bit more specific about what I should change in Kevin's schematic?


(https://i.postimg.cc/SJC0Sdxh/pop-sound-cmos-toggle.png) (https://postimg.cc/SJC0Sdxh)


Sophia  :)

To be honest I don't know enough. I believe the voltage levels being different between the two signals is what causes the pop, I just haven't had time to get into the cmos switching yet to know better about it. One thing on the schematic, is the unused CD4053 input tied to ground? May not matter, but is best practice...

A quick fix idea: decrease C4 and C6 down to 220nf

Harder fix idea: bias cd4053 properly  :icon_biggrin: see additions in red. Note that resistors connect to VB, not ground.

(https://i.postimg.cc/XGHfmWWV/pop-sound-cmos-toggle.png) (https://postimg.cc/XGHfmWWV)

Thanks diffeq, I'll try your suggestion as soon as possible.

Sophia  :)

I had some time to look into it. I tried your suggestion.
- The 10uF capacitors + resistors to Vref according to your drawing make the pop sound noticeably worse. I used 470K because I didn't have 500K lying around. I assume that doesn't make much difference.
- Then I replaced capacitors C4 and C6 with 220nF. Again, a bit more pop sound?

Vref = 4.52V
+9V = 9.33V (Boss PSA 230S power supply)

Any idea what else I can try?

Sophia  :)

This is why I had asked that you refer to the "Geofex" writeup for improvements. These are issues that usually scare people away from using these 4053 switching solutions and the writeup details the remedy.

10uF is quite large for this. The writeup suggests 2.2uF in those locations.
I suppose next would be to add 1M resistors to ground before those capacitors.
After those two adjustments, you'll have exactly what I had recently used for no-click bypass - though I had used 1M instead of 510K (or 470K) for all resistors - including the VB resistors you've just added.

Combating noises on a breadboarded circuit can be a challenge. Post a picture of your circuit and we'll suggest some ideas to improve it. Capacitor positions are important for adequate decoupling & filtering of the power supply.

Quote...like putting on a suit & tie to eat at Denny's.
While the only requirement is shoes and a shirt.

No pants?!

Sofia, if you can afford it, maybe it's time to try actually soldering components to a board. As Kevin said, breadboards are noisy by nature, for more than one reason.