I've built 2 of these, here is the Riptide info:
https://scientificguitarist.wixsite.com/home/riptide-spring-reverb
Both work great (except for cannot get rid of charge pump whine).
The first one used the super tiny tank:
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/reverb-tank-accutronics-amc2bf-2-spring
Input Impedance: 150Ω
Output Impedance: 1500Ω
2nd one uses:
https://www.tubesandmore.com/products/reverb-tank-mod-mn-8bb2c1b-medium-decay-3-spring-mini
Input: 190 Ω
Output: 2,575 Ω
Note that I am using an Incandeza Bypass for the 2nd one. Both wired to NOT have tails.
I have the strangest issue with the 2nd one. There will be very little effect (output level is fine, just not much 'verb) until I either:
Power cycle (unplug, replug DC) or crash the springs pretty hard. That then brings back the effect, for a while. I'm thinking this has something to do with a capacitor and grounding, but that's the extend of my ability to analyze.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
John
Probably a bad connection on or inside the tank. Try wiggling and checking the connections.
If you have a small transformer-based (ie. unregulated, non-switchmode) wall-wart you might be able to place it near the reverb spring output coil to create some hum. If the hum changes when in working and non-working state that will possibly narrow the problem to the tank output signal path.
> until I either: Power cycle (unplug, replug DC) or crash the springs pretty hard.
Yeah, tarnish in plug or joint. Same reason you sometimes have to wiggle the plug in the guitar or the amp.
I assumed bad connection and have re-done those - the unit doesn't move at all, I use it in desktop. If we consider the two solutions, it seems that one rules out the other: Bad connection in the tank wouldn't be fixed by power cycling...
It really seems to be some kind of lock up - I know it seems strange. Maybe it's with the Incandeza Bypass? Relay issue?
Quote from: Toy Sun on November 24, 2024, 11:33:44 PMI assumed bad connection and have re-done those - the unit doesn't move at all, I use it in desktop. If we consider the two solutions, it seems that one rules out the other: Bad connection in the tank wouldn't be fixed by power cycling...
It really seems to be some kind of lock up - I know it seems strange. Maybe it's with the Incandeza Bypass? Relay issue?
If the relay circuit is wired as true-bypass then it can't explain why the reverb part only is weak.
Maybe try measuring the DC voltages on the opamps and see if any of the voltages are different when the unit is working and not working.
Having the reverb come back when you crash the springs is a weird behaviour. (At first I'd be thinking bad connections, bad pot, bad cap, then after that a small possibility of oscillation.)
QuoteIn addition to component selection, Riptide further taps into the vintage tone profile by using a JFET preamp that gives some great color. It's essentially the Dunlop EP101 Echorec Preamp with a fixed gain ....
check that the gate resistor is really there and connecting to ground. I dunno what an Incandeza Bypass is. or does.
Do you have the boards wired for TB, or are you using the onboard FET switching along with Incandenza? Do you know if the PCB's have been updated since the original FET switching didn't work?
I also don't believe the 1044 was the right switcher to use in the power supply as there's a bit of current being pushed into the tanks. Swap it out for a 1054 (which I did), and had zero issues with noise - it's a direct swap.
I had plenty of issues with my boards and getting them to work, and there's some info in here (https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=131735.0)
drdn0, thanks for the tip on the 1054. I've had noise issues, so that is a good thing to try. That said, super busy with work and life and no time to work on pedals at all for a long time. Just wanted to thank everyone for the replies, I will eventually get to trying some things and will post results on the thread to contribute to the knowledge base.
Thanks,
J