Okay okay...
I have been searching and searching for this all year - I'm going crazy!
I really need to convert my Big Muff to True Bypass. It's one of the big Russian Green 1st reissues. This pedal is great, I've had it for years - the tone-sucking just has to stop when bypassed!
So is it true that no one has ever done this? I can't find anything besides the standard "How to True-Bypass" stuff. I can't understand where the effect "in" and "out" is. It seems that this mod HAS to be possible, yet NO ONE has offered a step by step on it! The wiring on this thing is giving me a headache!
Is there no one out there who can do this? Please understand my absolute frustration! Thanks~
Zak
Hey I PMed you something that might help.
You can easily find the in and out since they're both have to be wired to the in and out jacks :wink:
And I believe you wont find a "true-bypassing a first reissue russian Big-Muff" since true-bypassing is a standard 'mod' which goes more or less the same with various pedals.
Another point is that the most of the guys here wont pay for a Big-Muff (if it's not a very early model, of course :wink: ) since it's easy to build and you can achive a higher quality with diy.
The thing is get a schematic and search for the in and out - that's all.
A friend of mine the other day showed me the gut of a reissue EH Deluxe Memory Man-It had a DPDT switch in it with all six connects going to various places on the board-are any of you familiar with the current arrangement that they use-is it true bypass, or just wacky?
Hey thanks for your replies! I was confused because the jacks were attatched to the board - it threw me off quite a bit. I am fairly new at this and your help is much appreciated!
For LP Hovercraft - I did TB my Deluxe Memory Man - the stock set-up was not TB at all. The change really did make a great difference in my use for the pedal.
Thanks again!
Zak
i can't remember exactly but i'm fairly sure that the stock pedal switch does use a DPDT switch, but uses one pole to switch the LED. it will take some thought to figure out exactly what wire to connect where, made harder cos they're all little white wires that look the same. :( i know, i've true bypassed a green russian BMP before and i spent ages being frustrated at clipping the wrong wire cos of that!!!
if you do convert to true bypass, keep in mind that you'll lose the LED indicator unless you also build up a millenium bypass setup. (thanks RG, i bless the millenium on every build!)
possibly the best bet is to trace the wires going to the pots, leave them connected, and disconnect all the other wires and start the true bypassing from scratch. if you get stuck, or this didn't make any sense, maybe take some hi-res photos of the insides of your pedal and the top and bottom of the circuit board and we can try and step you through it.
LP Hovercraft - heh, great nick :P