For those who have a newer DS-1 with the Mitsubishi M5223AL chip, if you remove the 1K resistor (R40...the tiny little 1/8-watt resistor) between +9V and pin 7 of the IC, it will produce a much smoother distortion...almost borderline on Overdrive when the Distortion control is turned down.
With that in mind, it stands to reason that if you up the value of that resistor...the distortion will get smoother and smoother the higher the resistance goes.
The only downside is that there is a small volume drop with the resistor removed, but that really isn't a problem, considering how loud the DS-1 can go!
Phillip
:D I think it's time to make Ansils LM386 clone of the DS-1 :D
Cool! I should experiment!
how about a tube version of the ds1... yeah that would be a waste of time.
hehehe
So far, I've replaced one of the diodes to the DS1 with a LED, added the 47 pf cap across the diodes, and snipped that resistor, and it sounds a bit smoother, but still too harsh. I think the problem is the tone control. There's a small range from the 'icepick' to the 'dull' sounds in that control.
How do Keeley or any of the other modders address this?
That resistor looks odd.
I wonder if 1K is the correct value?
Hi,
another good mod to the Stock DS-1 is to add one Diode to the Clipping Stage for asymetrical clipping.
Its cheap and fast done.
You get less Distortion at lower Gainsettings (nearly clean with a Stratocaster SingleCoil) and higher Gainsettings are smoother
and sounds like an Ibanez TubeKing (it comes very, very near)
bye
Oliver
Quote from: Ed G.So far, I've replaced one of the diodes to the DS1 with a LED, added the 47 pf cap across the diodes, and snipped that resistor, and it sounds a bit smoother, but still too harsh. I think the problem is the tone control. There's a small range from the 'icepick' to the 'dull' sounds in that control.
How do Keeley or any of the other modders address this?
change c10 and c12 to .047 uf's. Change r13 to taste...10k/22k or in that area.
Is the cap added across the diodes soldered onto the back of the board? Keeley's PIC (http://www.robertkeeley.com/audio6l6/dsback.jpg) looks like the cap is soldered between the two diodes like this:
O-->|--O
| |
|--||--|
| |
O--|<--O
Is that right?
It's the last thing I've gotta do to finish modding my DS-1. The LED makes great difference.
Yes, the 47pF capacitor is soldered onto the back of the board (solder side) across the two clipping diodes. Make sure that you solder it nice and flat against the board, because if it sticks up too far, the bottom plate won't fit right since the board is so close to it.
Phillip
Keeley writes articles for
www.musicianshotline.com
There are a couple of articles in the archives on his ds1 mods. Sign up for a sample copy of the mag and you will get it everymonth for free.
He has an article in every issue with lots of cool info.
Chris
Does the DS-1 sound much like a RAT? Slightly similiar designs :roll:
No, not really. The DS-1 sounds more 'open' than the rat, but has less sustain. The Rat is much smoother. The DS-1 sounds much harsher in the high end. I much prefer the RAT for overall distortion use.