Hi
I'm fixing up an old Boss pedal, and the check LED is stuffed! Both leads have sheared off right next to the body.
As you'd know these LED's are really narrow and pointy and non-standard looking. Does anyone know the part number and/or source of a suitable replacement?
Thanks in advance,
George
Doesn't BOSS equip their effects with standerd 3mm LED indicators? :?
off topic: what does "ot" mean in the name of the topic?
Thanks
Exactly what you said: Off Topic ;)
I'm pretty sure my single Boss pedal uses a regular 3mm red LED (I'm pretty sure; it's in storage) so I don't know, but check out the Panasonic LEDs at http://www.mouser.com/ . You might fone something there.
Good luck, there are a zillion LEDs out there.
Take care,
-Peter
you know, there are some LEDs available that are quite sensitive to voltage... i've always assumed that BOSS used voltage-sensitive LEDs as battery indicators. if you look closely in catalogs (mouser) you can see these things pop up here and there.
thanks everyone!
I'm fixing an old silver-screw, black label MIJ CE-2 which is pretty beat but still works.
I've looked at the schematics for the CE-2 and newer OD-3 and CH-1. The CE-2 calls for a SLP-135B and the newer pedals LN-20RP. I can't even get any hits on Google for these, let alone datasheets or manufacturers :(
BUT - I've just measured the hole the LED goes in and it's a bit more than 3mm, so Peter your suggestion should work fine
Zachary, how would I go about identifying voltage-sensitive LEDs, from the Vf on the datasheet
Thanks
George
oh yeah one more thing, I also have a MIT CE-2 which I guess would date from the late '80s.
Apart from how they sound (probably the same I suspect) it's interesting to compare how the LED is done in the later pedals to the original.
In the original, the LED has the leads soldered directly to the wires going to the PCB with a bit of shrink wrap pushed over them to prevent shorting.
In the later one, the LED has it's own little PCB with wires going to the main PCB.
I wonder how many $$$$ that little manufacturing change saved Boss?
Yeah, I'm interested in finding out the best way to replace LEDs that are soldered directly to the main circuit board. I'm not sure whether I'll ever be able to get the new LED to line up with the hole in the enclosure if I desolder the old one entirely. Perhaps cut the leads halfway and hide the join under the heatshrink?
lot's of if's buts and maybes here.
the situation you describe sounds like it depends on whether you can manually intervene and physically guide the LED into it's rightful place.
If the leads were flexible but stiff enough to stay where you bent them, you could set the LED in the right place with a bit of trial and error.
Quote from: bobbletroxYeah, I'm interested in finding out the best way to replace LEDs that are soldered directly to the main circuit board. I'm not sure whether I'll ever be able to get the new LED to line up with the hole in the enclosure if I desolder the old one entirely. Perhaps cut the leads halfway and hide the join under the heatshrink?
On the TS-9 or others with the little daughter boards for the LED's, I put the led in the board, bend over the leads, and reassemble the board in the case. Then I solder it in. The pedal itself acts as a soldering jig. Same with the MXR reisssues. They use a plastic sleeve over the leads to raise the LED to the proper height. Bend over the leads to hold it, and the hole in the case aligns it for you. Kinda like when you replace or re-solder pcb mounted jacks. Do it when assembled, and the joints hold up better because they were soldered in the exact position they are fastened in, less tension.
Quote from: Fret WireI put the led in, bend over the leads, and reassemble the board in the case. Then I solder it in. The pedal itself acts as a soldering jig. Same with the MXR reisssues. They use a plastic sleeve over the leads. Bend over the leads to start it, and the hole in the case aligns it for you. Kinda like when you replace or re-solder pcb mounted jacks. Do it when assembled, and the joints hold up better because they were soldered in the exact position they are fastened in, less tension.
Got it! Thanks.