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does anyone know where i can find a 10uf mylar cap ?

ive tried digikey, mouser, and allied electronics.....

no luck..

I gather you want a big non-polarized cap.

Many of the audiophile mags will have ads for places that carry exotic components.  Audio Express has lots of such ads.

I don't think I've ever seen a mylar cap that big.  Typically at about 1uf and above, you're left with electrolytics.  A 1uF mylar is pretty big, I can't imagine a 10uF one fitting into a layout very well.

I stand corrected, here's a polyester film cap at Mouser:

http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=370162&e_categoryid=497&e_pcodeid=59809

It's still a bit large, but it could work.

Geez, i forget what circuit it was in, but i think you're referring to a circuit with 2 10uf mylars in the PS section. IMO, tell me the schematic, and we'll give you a better PS to follow.

Quote from: sir_modulusGeez, i forget what circuit it was in, but i think you're referring to a circuit with 2 10uf mylars in the PS section. IMO, tell me the schematic, and we'll give you a better PS to follow.

i am actually building a set of condenser mics for a friend.

here is the link!

http://www.prosoundweb.com/recording/tapeop/buildmic/buildmic_16_1.shtml

these are supposed to sound nice....

even if i could get a couple of 5uf, that would be cool....i found some
close, but they are 9 bucks a piece...insane.....
what other caps would work for this?  and why does the guy say
no electrolytics?

Quote from: SoundTechI stand corrected, here's a polyester film cap at Mouser:

http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=370162&e_categoryid=497&e_pcodeid=59809

It's still a bit large, but it could work.

That measures .453 thick x .827 high x 1.02 long, with .886 lead spacing.
http://www.cde.com/catalogs/DME.pdf

You could always try a 10uf @ 25v or 35v tantalum cap. Very small, and sounds better than electro's, in most places in the ckt. They are, however, polarized. What ckt, and where do you want to use it?

EDIT: I stand corrected too :oops:
From your schematic, it looks like you have to go non-polar. Doesn't look to have many components, You should be able to fit that 10uf in there

Quote from: Fret Wire

Quote from: SoundTechI stand corrected, here's a polyester film cap at Mouser:

http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=370162&e_categoryid=497&e_pcodeid=59809

It's still a bit large, but it could work.

That measures .453 thick x .827 high x 1.02 long, with .886 lead spacing.
http://www.cde.com/catalogs/DME.pdf

You could always try a 10uf @ 25v or 35v tantalum cap. Very small, and sounds better than electro's, in most places in the ckt. They are, however, polorized. What ckt, and where do you want to use it?

can you sub a film for a mylar?

Yes, no problem. The cap SoundTech recommended will work just fine. Since there is no ckt board, definately use shrink wrap to insulate the leads of all components.

Quote from: casey

Quote from: Fret Wire

Quote from: SoundTechI stand corrected, here's a polyester film cap at Mouser:

http://www.mouser.com/index.cfm?handler=displayproduct&lstdispproductid=370162&e_categoryid=497&e_pcodeid=59809

It's still a bit large, but it could work.

That measures .453 thick x .827 high x 1.02 long, with .886 lead spacing.
http://www.cde.com/catalogs/DME.pdf

You could always try a 10uf @ 25v or 35v tantalum cap. Very small, and sounds better than electro's, in most places in the ckt. They are, however, polorized. What ckt, and where do you want to use it?

can you sub a film for a mylar?

Correct me if I'm wrong, but "mylar" is just a trade name for polyester. Dupont owns the name, I think.

There are a few mouser parts, but all are expensive. They are all metalized polypropelene (which is the alternative the article gives).

1 (min.order = 9 of these):
CDE Metallized Polypropylene Capacitors
100V 10uF 10% AXIAL @ $16.50 ea (and you hafta order nine of these)
598-100V10

2 (get 4 of these):
CDE Metallized Polypropylene Capacitors
2.5uF 850V 10% AX @ $4.86 ea

PLEASE READ: I don't know wether the Cap SoundTech found will work. The article says Mylar or Metallized Polypropylene. His is polyester.

All non-polar "film caps" (Mylar, Polypropylene, Polyester, Polystyrene) will work.

Sorry, then SoundTech's got the best deal there.

i just ordered that polyester from mouser.....good work guys...
thank you...

Quote from: Ed G.Correct me if I'm wrong, but "mylar" is just a trade name for polyester. Dupont owns the name, I think.

Yeah, pretty much:

http://heritage.dupont.com/touchpoints/tp_1952/overview.shtml

If it's only rock & roll, I'd put a non-polar electro in there. But, I'm a tin-eared cheapskate, so...

Nota Bene: the cheapest source for high voltage, high current, high quality film capacitors in the 10uF and up range is motor run caps from air conditioning and other motor supply stores.

I'm building an AC30 clone, using 10uF/330Vac motor starting caps for the power supply. They cost me $5.23 each at my local HVAC supplies place. That is just marginally higher than the cost of a 10/10/10/10 uF four section 400V electro.

I have this concept I call The Immortal Amp.

Tube amps are already pretty tough. If you correct the obvious wearout mechanisms, you get an amp that will be running a century later, given only a supply of replacement tubes - and that can be much fewer than most of us think.

Electrolytic cap wearout is pretty predictable, and avoidable.

I have built several of these mics, XLR for studio and remote use as well as unbalanced 1/8" mini plug for use with a Minidisc recorder. They work very well. Not the best mic in the world by any means but they are cheap and do the job well. The nice thing is that you can make 4 or so of them and be in buisnessfor less than $100 and save your money for other recording needs while getting set up.  They take a bit of fine soldering and patience but nothing more than pedal building really.

You can build the mics as cardiod patern mics as well, even make a single stereo mic instead of individual ones.  There are a few sites with some cool mic builds which are stereo and with different parts even. Try the ESP (elliot sound...) site...lots of good stuff there.

Good luck

John

Quote from: casey

Quote from: sir_modulusGeez, i forget what circuit it was in, but i think you're referring to a circuit with 2 10uf mylars in the PS section. IMO, tell me the schematic, and we'll give you a better PS to follow.

i am actually building a set of condenser mics for a friend.

here is the link!

http://www.prosoundweb.com/recording/tapeop/buildmic/buildmic_16_1.shtml
...

unfortunately, those condenser mic modules have been discontinued by Panasonic and are no longer available from digikey.

Quote from: zachary vex

Quote from: casey

Quote from: sir_modulusGeez, i forget what circuit it was in, but i think you're referring to a circuit with 2 10uf mylars in the PS section. IMO, tell me the schematic, and we'll give you a better PS to follow.

i am actually building a set of condenser mics for a friend.

here is the link!

http://www.prosoundweb.com/recording/tapeop/buildmic/buildmic_16_1.shtml
...

unfortunately, those condenser mic modules have been discontinued by Panasonic and are no longer available from digikey.

Hey Zach!

I found a replacement!  Panasonic...  Digikey Part #: P9925-ND  $1.83
I ordered them yesterday....ill let you know how they turn out.....

These are Omni....should be good to go.

oh, good for you!  here's a little more information on mods you can do to that mic capsule to improve distortion.  naturally, you should follow the other design as far as using the high-quality blocking cap.
http://www.linkwitzlab.com/sys_test.htm

(http://www.linkwitzlab.com/images/graphics/microph1.gif)

thanks......   ill let yall know how they turn out....i should hopefully
be getting all of the stuff pretty quick....