I have been meaning to do this since TheToneGod released the article.
I have went out of my way to design the boards to fit in a 1590b and illustrated how they fit in the enclosure. The board measures 107mmX27mm and will fit in a 1590b vertically. I have included a hole on the main sequencer board to fit wires through as there will be no room. I recommend a stand off screwed into the back of the enclosure to mount the board as the alps pots have no mounting hardware.
I used a 40106 instead of 4093.
I included the manual mod.
I have also included add on boards for a wah, talking filter and tremolo.
Its unverified.
Anyone have the cahoneys to verify it?
:icon_question: :icon_razz:
http://www.esnips.com/web/nelsonsOtherStuff
very cool and nice job!!!!
a seekwah + tremolo!!
any sample? it must be sweet!!!
hope i have the skill to build this!!
Awesome!!!! I've been waiting for an answer on how to link the audio board with that optocoupler at the end of the sequence circuit.
Now I have an excuse to build what I keep reading about (sequenced wahs, etc..).
*edit* figured it out.
Thanks for posting this and taking the time to draw this up.
Patrick
I used the coloursound wah circuit. Any twin T will work.
45 downloads and 2 comments?
:'(
This took me ages....
WOW! :o Geez, leave something for the others Nelson. ;) I'll take a look through it alittle later but thus far I am impressed.
Great work and effort on your part.
Andrew
P.S. Remember its the weekend and many access the forum during the week, probably from work. ;)
Quote from: The Tone God on July 09, 2006, 02:18:01 PM
WOW! :o Geez, leave something for the others Nelson. ;) I'll take a look through it alittle later but thus far I am impressed.
Great work and effort on your part.
Andrew
thanks,
Great design on your part.
Did you have a reason to leave off two of the sequence stages? Just curious.
I've looked through the layout and schematic, and it seems to match up as well as I can see. Note I'm not verifying it. I'll take a look this afternoon or evening and see what I can make of it. Again, thanks for putting your time and effort into this layout.
Patrick
Quote from: pbrommer on July 09, 2006, 02:48:39 PM
Did you have a reason to leave off two of the sequence stages? Just curious.
I've looked through the layout and schematic, and it seems to match up as well as I can see. Note I'm not verifying it. I'll take a look this afternoon or evening and see what I can make of it. Again, thanks for putting your time and effort into this layout.
Patrick
The additional 2 pots wouldnt fit along the length of a 1590b.
Wow that's great work. I have a thing for the B sized box myself, I think this is the size effect pedals should be.
I took a quick look through. I found a few minor errors.
1. No pull down resistor on the reset pin. I don't know if you were going to suggest this as off board wiring. It could be done that way if you use the "ground input" style bypass.
2. The bypass reset switch is wired wrong. The stage selector switch should go to the top pole of the bypass switch.
3. Where is the "Blinking Stage LED During Reset" transistor stage ?
4. The feed to the optocoupler LED should go to the anaode and the cathode comes back to the limiting resistor (220R in you layout). Right now the 220R is wired straight to the pots with no break.
This was just a quick look over so feel free to smack me across the head if I didn't see something somewhere.
Andrew
Quote from: The Tone God on July 09, 2006, 04:23:44 PM
I took a quick look through. I found a few minor errors.
1. No pull down resistor on the reset pin. I don't know if you were going to suggest this as off board wiring. It could be done that way if you use the "ground input" style bypass.
2. The bypass reset switch is wired wrong. The stage selector switch should go to the top pole of the bypass switch.
3. Where is the "Blinking Stage LED During Reset" transistor stage ?
4. The feed to the optocoupler LED should go to the anaode and the cathode comes back to the limiting resistor (220R in you layout). Right now the 220R is wired straight to the pots with no break.
This was just a quick look over so feel free to smack me across the head if I didn't see something somewhere.
Andrew
Come here so I can smack you!
Nah, just kidding, your quite right. I have updated the PDF to include the corrections.
I connected the limiting resistor directly to the pots and to the transistor deliberately. The 220r is superfluous. wiring the beat/random suppression transistor this way wont change the way it operates AFAIK. This way I can avoid the extra wire(s) from the optocoupler(s) on the add on audio board.
Nelson, fantastic work :icon_eek:
I was hoping someone had a VP layout, it was driving me mad trying to figure out my own.
Thanks :icon_lol:
Quote from: nelson on July 09, 2006, 05:53:11 PM
Come here so I can smack you!
Nah, just kidding, your quite right. I have updated the PDF to include the corrections.
:) Looks good. You didn't think that you were actually going to have any space left over like you had around the standoff did you ?
Quote from: nelson on July 09, 2006, 05:53:11 PM
I connected the limiting resistor directly to the pots and to the transistor deliberately. The 220r is superfluous. wiring the beat/random suppression transistor this way wont change the way it operates AFAIK. This way I can avoid the extra wire(s) from the optocoupler(s) on the add on audio board.
It would work but my only real gripe about it is that you are only conducting the current around the opto's LED and not disabling the stage LEDs. You are going to still see stage LEDs during random cycles. Thats why I decided to put the transistor in series with the opto/LEDs.
Andrew
Quote from: The Tone God on July 09, 2006, 07:55:11 PM
:) Looks good. You didn't think that you were actually going to have any space left over like you had around the standoff did you ?
No I didnt. :)
Quote from: The Tone God on July 09, 2006, 07:55:11 PM
It would work but my only real gripe about it is that you are only conducting the current around the opto's LED and not disabling the stage LEDs. You are going to still see stage LEDs during random cycles. Thats why I decided to put the transistor in series with the opto/LEDs.
Andrew
For the sake of one wire, I think I will change it. Your quite right again. I forgot to take the opto LED path to ground into account....
:icon_mad:
wowser. I'm still trying to get the clone theory finished.
Nelson, you have this knack for making awesome layouts for very desirable effects. I for one very much appreciate all of your hard work.
Steve.
Hmmmmm... Inspiring - really innovative guys - I'll have to build these, this is breaking new ground for me - thanks!!!
I love those 9mm pots! One of my favorite quotes "Give me enough knobs, I can control the world." From Mr. Vex
That weekend thing is the case with me, I spend weekends building - and do my reading/research during the week...
What all is this pedal supposed to do? Haven't been able to figure this one out yet...
Quote from: nelson on July 09, 2006, 08:19:48 PM
For the sake of one wire, I think I will change it. Your quite right again. I forgot to take the opto LED path to ground into account....
:icon_mad:
Sorry. I know its a pain but it would make for a cleaner functioning circuit. Thanks. :)
Quote from: Cliff Schecht on July 10, 2006, 06:37:20 AM
What all is this pedal supposed to do? Haven't been able to figure this one out yet...
Its really two parts. One is control logic and the other is the audio. It allows you to use multiple pots to control a parameter then step through each control pot in sequence. If talking about a wah think of it like have a bunch of wah pedals with the rocker set at different levels then having the ability to turn each one on and off in sequence.
Andrew
Quote from: The Tone God on July 10, 2006, 02:16:32 PM
Quote from: nelson on July 09, 2006, 08:19:48 PM
For the sake of one wire, I think I will change it. Your quite right again. I forgot to take the opto LED path to ground into account....
:icon_mad:
Sorry. I know its a pain but it would make for a cleaner functioning circuit. Thanks. :)
Quote from: Cliff Schecht on July 10, 2006, 06:37:20 AM
What all is this pedal supposed to do? Haven't been able to figure this one out yet...
Its really two parts. One is control logic and the other is the audio. It allows you to use multiple pots to control a parameter then step through each control pot in sequence. If talking about a wah think of it like have a bunch of wah pedals with the rocker set at different levels then having the ability to turn each one on and off in sequence.
Andrew
The cool thing is that, although there are some products out there that are similar to this that use wah and trem audio as the audio function being acted on, you could apply the idea for any audio circuit really. Imagine a sequenced; distortion/trem|wah combo, flang|chorus (although it might get a little messy timewise), even a fuzz would work.
For those looking for the "not your fathers XXX effect" this is an idea that is immensely interesting.
Another interesting idea is to be able to apply the sequence to several different settings... For instance, assuming like a trem/distortion combo, perhaps set the sequence of pots for one setting like distortion (assuming something like a Guv'nor where the gain setting does not mess too much with the volume...) "gain" - store those settings, then set the sequence for the trem "depth" setting and have a foot switch to move between the 2. But, then again, without 2 sets of pots - this idea moves into uC land pretty quickly though. Just an idea - perhaps for the future - this can get a little crazy if you have ever tried something like this.
Paul and Andrew thanks again - is there an update to the layout?
Quote from: mojotron on July 10, 2006, 02:46:18 PM
Quote from: The Tone God on July 10, 2006, 02:16:32 PM
Quote from: nelson on July 09, 2006, 08:19:48 PM
For the sake of one wire, I think I will change it. Your quite right again. I forgot to take the opto LED path to ground into account....
:icon_mad:
Sorry. I know its a pain but it would make for a cleaner functioning circuit. Thanks. :)
Quote from: Cliff Schecht on July 10, 2006, 06:37:20 AM
What all is this pedal supposed to do? Haven't been able to figure this one out yet...
Its really two parts. One is control logic and the other is the audio. It allows you to use multiple pots to control a parameter then step through each control pot in sequence. If talking about a wah think of it like have a bunch of wah pedals with the rocker set at different levels then having the ability to turn each one on and off in sequence.
Andrew
The cool thing is that, although there are some products out there that are similar to this that use wah and trem audio as the audio function being acted on, you could apply the idea for any audio circuit really. Imagine a sequenced; distortion/trem|wah combo, flang|chorus (although it might get a little messy timewise), even a fuzz would work.
For those looking for the "not your fathers XXX effect" this is an idea that is immensely interesting.
Another interesting idea is to be able to apply the sequence to several different settings... For instance, assuming like a trem/distortion combo, perhaps set the sequence of pots for one setting like distortion (assuming something like a Guv'nor where the gain setting does not mess too much with the volume...) "gain" - store those settings, then set the sequence for the trem "depth" setting and have a foot switch to move between the 2. But, then again, without 2 sets of pots - this idea moves into uC land pretty quickly though. Just an idea - perhaps for the future - this can get a little crazy if you have ever tried something like this.
Paul and Andrew thanks again - is there an update to the layout?
I still have to update the layouts to include an extra control current wire to and from the sequencer and audio circuits.
Thank you very much.
I have just finished breadboarding the Vanishing point V2.1 and finally got it to work after many hours. :icon_redface:
And now you do this to me............... :icon_rolleyes: its just not fair :icon_lol:
Another one to add to the growing list of Nelson's layouts too-build.
thanks Nelson, really appreciate the effort, I would not know where to start laying this on out.
Kevin
Thanks Nelson. I've been hoping this would come along for a while now. ;D
Pots and other parts ordered. :icon_biggrin: Gonna give it a try. Gonna go for the colorsound type board but would really love to do a bassballs. All i have is a BB sized box but I'll still do pics and try for sound if i succeed. Really awesome layout nelson.
QuoteI still have to update the layouts to include an extra control current wire to and from the sequencer and audio circuits.
Is this update posted yet?
-justin
Etched and mostly populated boards today. Couple of things. On the control board, The right most transistor is missing a connection from the emitter to ground on the PNP Xfer. It is on the cyan colored parts placement guid. I meant to fix it before i etched, but forgot. Insted i just bent the emmiter leg over and soldered to ground. Then i coated it with some liquid electrical tape so no shorts screw me up. Also did the talking board and the trem board. On the trem board, the leftmost 100K resistor should be connected to ground, instead of the right one. This is part of the res network to provide pin 3 with Vref, yes? Also changed .68 input and output caps on the trem to 1uf as this effect will be mainly for bass. Pots should be here tomorrow so i will wire it up then see...
-justin
I will update the add on layouts to include the corrections you noticed.
Also, I havent updated the layout for the return CC wire.
I have been busy and will get round to updating the Project file.
Thanks for keeping us updated.
:)
coool 8)
thanks a lot!
slightly OT: how hard would it be to include a sequence speed tap switch??
Markus
Quote from: markusw on July 18, 2006, 01:47:58 AM
slightly OT: how hard would it be to include a sequence speed tap switch??
Very hard. No one to my knowledge has made an analog or discreet tap tempo system. I would image it would take up alot of space if it were to be made. This is something that a uC would be much more suited for.
Andrew
Quote from: The Tone God on July 18, 2006, 01:55:02 AM
Quote from: markusw on July 18, 2006, 01:47:58 AM
slightly OT: how hard would it be to include a sequence speed tap switch??
Very hard. No one to my knowledge has made an analog or discreet tap tempo system. I would image it would take up alot of space if it were to be made. This is something that a uC would be much more suited for.
Andrew
Hi Andrew,
thanks for your clarification!
Suppose you know this one
http://cusackmusic.com/images/normal/TapTempoBoard2.jpg (http://cusackmusic.com/images/normal/TapTempoBoard2.jpg)
Don't know what components are used though.
Markus
Quote from: markusw on July 18, 2006, 02:06:43 AM
Hi Andrew,
thanks for your clarification!
Suppose you know this one
http://cusackmusic.com/images/normal/TapTempoBoard2.jpg (http://cusackmusic.com/images/normal/TapTempoBoard2.jpg)
Don't know what components are used though.
Yep. PIC Microcontroller. Probably a 12F673 or similar. I have my theories as to how it works.
Andrew
QuoteYep. PIC Microcontroller. Probably a 12F673 or similar. I have my theories as to how it works.
Andrew
In my ingenuousness I was hoping it might be just an opamp....
Markus
Quote from: markusw on July 18, 2006, 02:23:41 AM
In my ingenuousness I was hoping it might be just an opamp....
I wish that too but alas this is fair too complicated to do with just an opamp. This is really something uCs are good for.
Andrew
Quote from: nelson on July 18, 2006, 12:51:46 AM
I will update the add on layouts to include the corrections you noticed.
Also, I havent updated the layout for the return CC wire.
Yeah, I'm still thinking how to kludge that extra transistor in. I can manage something probably. Any thoughts on that resistor value? Its prob in the VP2.1 article, which i'll read over yet again, but just in case, any thoughts? Also, have you thought about sapcing the pots out just a tad wider to be able to include knobs? Looking at the layout, it doesnt seem to hard to slide the speed knob over and space out the rest, IMHO that would be truly remarkable. I was wondering, since i made two audio boards, is it possible to switch between them. I had thought about an SPDT for the CC wire, but the the guitar signal is still going through both effects whilst one is turned off. Then i thought about a DPDT for the guitar signal, to route it to each repective effect, but then the CC wire will go to two diff LED's and might not work right. I have nothing but switches and time right now, so i will go DPDT first, I just wondered if anyone had any thoughts on this...
Quote from: The Tone God on July 18, 2006, 02:13:32 AM
Quote from: markusw on July 18, 2006, 02:06:43 AM
Hi Andrew,
thanks for your clarification!
Suppose you know this one
http://cusackmusic.com/images/normal/TapTempoBoard2.jpg (http://cusackmusic.com/images/normal/TapTempoBoard2.jpg)
Don't know what components are used though.
Yep. PIC Microcontroller. Probably a 12F673 or similar. I have my theories as to how it works.
Andrew
Just read this yesterday. Pretty freakin cool! I wonder if they'll do it to my Vanishing Point? For $125, I might assume so... But that's just me...
-justin
Quote from: goodrevdoc on July 18, 2006, 03:21:26 AM
Just read this yesterday. Pretty freakin cool! I wonder if they'll do it to my Vanishing Point? For $125, I might assume so... But that's just me...
I doubt it. First off it should be made clear that my designs,
Vanishing Point included, are original circuits that I design from scratch involving no reverse engineering of other products. I do not know if what I designed is similar to other designs, nor do I really care (no offense to other designers ;)), so it is not known if the method of operation is the same therefore mods available for a similar behavior circuit cannot be assured to work.
That being said I do not think Mr. Cusak would be interested in modifying a unknown circuit that he would be unable to support but that would be my theory.
Andrew
Yeah i was just goofin... ;)
Built but not yet functioning... The first and last LED's (1 &8) stay lit, and no matter what i do with the switches they stay that way. Gonna go about the normal debug process but just wondered if anyone had any ideas on this? Worth mentioning, the audio portion is not yet connected. Don't know if this makes a difference, but I will also try that too.
-justin
Nelson:
What did you use for the 4 trannys on the main board?
I see 3 CBEs (assume 2n5088) and one BEC.
just curious.
-brian
Any NPN will work, twist leads if needs be.
Anybody got it working?! I just compared it to the VP 2.1 schem and had some problems because there are some differences ... Just wondering.
Dear lord how did I miss this thread! Thanks nelson! :icon_biggrin: This is a MUST build for me. Woo
-Jonatahn
I got this working , but it seemed to have a few errors.
First off the "CC" out? what the...?? if you just use that you will only have on or off, with no depth, unless working on this thing all day really made me crazy. You have to break the connection from the last pot out that goes to the 220r. Then use the CC and the connection to the last pot out. The last pot will go to your + of the led and the CC or the 220r out will go to the negative. This is what the schematic on tone god shows anyway.
Secondly I don't know why there is the 100k resistor on the top left next to the speed pot. It just goes from +9v to pin 2 of the cd40106. Can anybody explain why? In place or not in place I seem to get the same result. I left it off as it is not on the original schematic. I got rid of the clock/manual toggle because I couldn't seem to get that to work. What I ended up doing was connecting both 2 (yes both underlined 2's) and put that to a switch to switch it to ground or not just like on the schematic. I'll try to connect those again later now that I know it works. Can anybody confirm that the diagram is correct, for some reason the schematic is making me cross eyed? I connected it to the suggested wah board and used a vtl5c3 and it works just fine. I put a trim cap in place of the 100k on the photo side of the Vtl5c3 and that helped a little to obtain more of a wah. I just wanted to post this quick just in case anyone was stuck, I'll update it after I have some time to spend with it.
Its been awhile since I looked at that and I didn't complete go through it to confirm the layout. The layout is trying to do everything offered in the VP article including the step mode. It is up to the builder to decided what features they want and how to impliment them.
Quote from: Bassmanfox on March 02, 2007, 06:55:08 PM
Secondly I don't know why there is the 100k resistor on the top left next to the speed pot. It just goes from +9v to pin 2 of the cd40106. Can anybody explain why?
I believe that is the 100K pull up for the debouncing circuit if one plans on using the step switch function but it should not having a connection from 6 to 4. If you are not using the step function then you should not need the 100K or the accompany cap.
Andrew
Thanks nelson!
Fp
nelson, is the pdf file from the link of your 1st post totally updated?
Hey nelson, there's no effect out in the Tremulus Lune pcb. :icon_confused:
Bump
If you are trying to use the VP to control the Lune then you would use the VP's output to control the optocoupler instead of the Lune's LFO. The "effect out" is that of the Lune not the VP.
Andrew
Sorry, but I didn't understand.
Both the wah board and the filter have an out on their own board.
If I want to control the wah with the VP I connect the out of the wah board to the 3PDT. What about with the tremulus? What do I connect to the Effect out of the 3PDT?
Quote from: DWBH on May 06, 2007, 06:35:16 PM
Sorry, but I didn't understand.
Both the wah board and the filter have an out on their own board.
If I want to control the wah with the VP I connect the out of the wah board to the 3PDT. What about with the tremulus? What do I connect to the Effect out of the 3PDT?
bump
I getting alittle confused. The VP only replaces the control on the effect. In the case of the Lune you will replace the optocoupler. In a wah you would replace the pot used for the sweeping.
The VP does nothing with the audio portions of these circuit so you treat them just the same as without the VP in terms of wiring bypasses and signals.
Andrew
Hehe...
I'm confused as well.
But follow me: In the tremulus board there's no out pad, although that in the other boards there is. The out of the effect is connected to the 3PDT. But, as there is no out effect in the tremulus, what do we connect do the 3PDT?
bah, nevermind. I'll draw something with the connections (wah and tremulus) and then i'll post it here.
This is ace!
Its been on the cards for a while now, and now I got a decent layout I can finally build one!?
Thanks for all the hard work guys! ;D
I did not use this layout (did my own) but this is how mine turned out:
(http://www.knopfler.tk/meistro-finished-small.png)
that is VERY stylish.
Yes, that does look very, very nice. I was wondering if anyone has tried or thought of replacing the optocoupler in the uglyface with this circuit. Thoughts, comments?
i would say it would be pretty cool, moosapotamus (www.moosapotamus.net) added an envelope follower to his..
would be nice just to have as a modular pedal with banana jacks to send cv to various other effects... or maybe try one with a gristleizer or any of those rad jon hollis circuits?! ugh THANKS
Banana jacks wont work for battery pedals because the grounds wont be connected, unless of course you use a couple of them.
But nice idea on routing CV's like in a modular synth. I'd go for 3.5mm plugs so you don't connect them to the wrong things.
Quote from: Bassmanfox on March 02, 2007, 06:55:08 PM
I got this working , but it seemed to have a few errors.
First off the "CC" out? what the...?? if you just use that you will only have on or off, with no depth, unless working on this thing all day really made me crazy. You have to break the connection from the last pot out that goes to the 220r. Then use the CC and the connection to the last pot out. The last pot will go to your + of the led and the CC or the 220r out will go to the negative. This is what the schematic on tone god shows anyway.
Secondly I don't know why there is the 100k resistor on the top left next to the speed pot. It just goes from +9v to pin 2 of the cd40106. Can anybody explain why? In place or not in place I seem to get the same result. I left it off as it is not on the original schematic. I got rid of the clock/manual toggle because I couldn't seem to get that to work. What I ended up doing was connecting both 2 (yes both underlined 2's) and put that to a switch to switch it to ground or not just like on the schematic. I'll try to connect those again later now that I know it works. Can anybody confirm that the diagram is correct, for some reason the schematic is making me cross eyed? I connected it to the suggested wah board and used a vtl5c3 and it works just fine. I put a trim cap in place of the 100k on the photo side of the Vtl5c3 and that helped a little to obtain more of a wah. I just wanted to post this quick just in case anyone was stuck, I'll update it after I have some time to spend with it.
Well it took me 2.5 years to get around to this project, always interested in this thread - but very little time to put into it. Finally, I had some time so I built some stuff for myself for the first time in a long time. The VP was 3rd on my build list - I needed to satisfy my curiosity with the OVD and then I needed to make a killer MXR EF - but mostly - I could not dig up any cd40106 parts and had to wait for them anyway. I ordered a bunch of CD40XX(X) parts so I may really dive into the deepend here...
Andrew, Nelson and Bassmanfox (well everyone who has helped with this) - I thank you very much - The digital board works great!
The way I did this was to etch the board, populate the board, then wire things up, then debug all in about 6 different sessions. This is not a build that I think one would want to sit down and knock out in an afternoon - this is a tough one, but well worth it. So, I planned it out and decided to really take my time as the time involved in being careful may be less than that of debugging a rushed build. I think this was one of the few (other than TS808 and maybe the FF) first builds where it (kind of) just worked as soon as I applied power - I fired it up just as layed out (only routing the emitter of the right most transister first) - then appled Bassmanfox's mods to get it to work. And, it's pretty cool - I'm very happy with the digital board. I think the tough thing about this board is just the optimization for space.
Here are the mods I needed to make to get the digital board to work:
1) I got rid of the clock/manual switch as Bassmanfox suggested and added a ground to
2 on a switch instead - I kept the 100k resister (don't know about that one - likely a don't care at this point as the trace is not being hooked to a switch).
2) I routed the emitter of the right most transistor - as suggested earlier
3) The "CC" out comment by Bassmanfox saved me a great deal of time!! That was right on the money - Thanks again!!
OK - now I will move on to either integrating the Trem or Wah boards - those are pretty straight forward at this point since I have build a number of wahs and lunes before this, plus I have a bunch of Light Dependent Resistors (LDR)s to mess with.
Maybe I will put them in the same box, or have a digital box and many analog boxes as suggested earlier - I'll figure that out next session.
Also, I'm going to put some work into getting the clock/manual toggle to work - I'll post what I find out.
Side note, one thing that has always bugged me about using LDRs is that they are tough to get right, even after you have found the right one; there has to be a better way to do this - anyone know of a good way to eliminate the LDR in like a Trem Lune circuit?
Quote from: mojotron on December 08, 2008, 03:48:14 AMSide note, one thing that has always bugged me about using LDRs is that they are tough to get right, even after you have found the right one; there has to be a better way to do this - anyone know of a good way to eliminate the LDR in like a Trem Lune circuit?
The LDR was used as a "safe" way to control an number of different circuit parameter control configurations. It solves alot of problems toward the goal of universal control if there is such a thing. Can it be replaced by something else ? Depends on what you are controlling and/or the function of the resistive element in the circuit.
For example an easy replacement is if the element is a source to ground like say for a tremolo. You can use various transistors for the job depending on the signal requirements. Calibration would be the major trick here. I did play the idea of a buffer/bias control on the output of the stages into the resistive control element so one could adjust the range of the output to drive different elements or even just for another control.
Just a few thoughts.
Andrew
So it looks like I'll finally be gearing up to work on this project--and I have some points where I need some clarification:
1. It appears that there are some connections on the board that need to have common connections--specifically the underlined letters. Is this correct?
2. What purpose is the clock/manual switch supposed to serve? Can someone please explain its function?
3. Regarding the clock/manual toggle--will it function correctly as diagrammed in the layout, or is it preferable to make the 2-to ground connection?
4. It appears that the rightmost transistor's emitter now has a trace to ground on the pcb, and no further modifications are necessary regarding this transistor. Is this correct?
5. It appears that a trace cut is necessary to detach "CC" from the rightmost pot's connection, then those two points should serve to connect to the LED side of the optoisolator. Is this correct?
Thanks for any inputs you guys have--these clarifications should cover my needs for now until I actually get this circuit rolling.
Thanks,
-Josh
bump for daywalkers
I have a schematic for a version of this that has IMO a better random mode. I never could get a good random out of the VP2.1.
The only thing is that the VP2.1 turns of momentarily between stages in the random mode which sounds better than the random mode on this other version I have.
Maybe I could post the shemo and we could work out how to get the random mode of this one I have to stutter slightly like the VP2.1 does.
I just think the VP2.1 random is not really random enough for me. Seems to choose one stage very often on my breadboard.
Cheers,
Steve
I haven't built from this board so I can only comment on the design aspect.
Quote from: jacobyjd on February 19, 2009, 12:20:51 AM
2. What purpose is the clock/manual switch supposed to serve? Can someone please explain its function?
The function here is that you either have the stages incremented by the internal clock or you can increment them yourself manual meaning you tap the switch and the stage increments. You can then manage the settings so its like a series of presets that you switch through. Some people like to have presets on their effects like wahs and ring modulators.
Quote from: orangetones on February 19, 2009, 02:49:23 PM
Maybe I could post the shemo and we could work out how to get the random mode of this one I have to stutter slightly like the VP2.1 does.
The random mode does need some tweaking due to variations in parts but once people get them tuned in they find its great. I almost put in trimpots in to make it easier to tune but decided not to. Maybe I should have now.
If you have a better random circuit I would be willing to look at it to help out trying to integrate it to the current design.
Things will be so much easier and better with VP v3.0. ;)
Andrew
So I believe I understand its function now. If the parameter of the part. effect you are controlling has 100k pots all 8 pots would be 100k right? If you put the trimmer pots on the board you adjust the vr. of that 100k pot to a certain extent.
I built the vanishing point 2.1 with the wah circuit of this project and used 100k pots. Everything works ok but i found that the sweep of the wah is limited to the last quarter of rotation of the pot, everything above sounds the same. I tried reducing the maximum resistance with resistors across the pot but i didn't hear any audible diference. Should i try smaller pots to improve the effect?
I'd like to use the VP to control a Tremulus Lune, but instead of replacing the LFO with the VP, I want to use the VP to control the LFO's speed. Is this just as simple as modulating an LED with the VP and swapping the speed pot in the Lune with an LDR?