DIYstompboxes.com

I thought it might be useful to have a thread (sticky or Wiki ?) that contained reviews of the various tools we use for building stompboxes. Everything from soldering irons to solder wick to pliers and wire strippers could be contained here. Even tools that are widely acknowledged as excellent ones for our purposes (Unibit, Weller WES51, etc) would be good to review, so that beginners would be able to buy the "right" items...quality items that will last...and keep from wasting $$$ on useless or inferior stuff.

Anyway, I think a basic "1 thru 5" rating system (5 being the best) would be an easy way to rate these items. Categories like "overall value", "usefulness", "quality", etc would be good, and maybe a short review of each item with a link/price/etc to where you got it. Items like the Unibit and the Weller WES51 could even have "Stompers Choice" awards :D. Seriously though...this could help vets find new tools, and beginners get the necessities...

What do you guys think ?

Since I started the thread, I'll do the first review...

In my recent move, some of my tools have remained in boxed, yet to be found. One of these tools is my beloved wire cutters. These cutters are "old school", probably 20 or more years old, made of true hardened steel and they just never seem to dull. Anyway, I had to get started on some pedals, and since my cutters are still boxed up, I had to find a reasonable substitute to tie me over till they're found. I have my share of cheap, Harbor Freight wire cutters, and while these work "ok", I've never been satisfied with them. Those of you who own quality tools know what I mean when I say "you can really tell the difference between a $20-$40 set of wire cutters and a inexpensive set of wire cutters"....until now !

A recent trip to Fry Electronic (www.frys.com) found me looking at a set of Xcelite 170M shearcutters.They are made to cut "up to" 20AWG wire, which is perfect for stompbox use, and only cost $4.99 ! This seemed too good to be true, so I bought them just to find out. Anyway, after some use (2 pedal builds) I have to say that, while these won't replace my old school cutters, this is an excellent quality cutter, especially for the price. The handle is comfortable, spring action is good, it cuts through wire like hot butter, and does nice "flush cuts". I'm EXTREMELY pleased with this purchase. I can, without hesitation, recommend these to people just starting out, or those who need new cutters and didn't have a lot of money to spend. It's still a "honeymoon" period, but these are a really nice "medium duty" set of wire cutters.

QUALITY : 4
USEFULNESS: 5
OVERALL VALUE: 5




(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2008-1/1294978/lightbulbeffects015.jpg)

Great idea!

Here goes...

EXTECH DMM BOUGHT FROM FARNELL. CAN'T REMEMBER WHAT I PAYED BUT THEY HAVE GOT IT UP FOR £39.99 WITH FREE NEXT DAY DELIVERY I THE U.K.

MANUFACTURER: EXTECH INSTRUMENTS
MODEL: EX330
FEATURES: USUAL MULTIMETER FUNCTIONS SUCH AS AC VOLTAGE, DC VOLTAGE, RESISTANCE, CURRENT AND CONTINUNUITY TEST. OTHER FEATURES INCLUDE A TMPERATURE SETTING FOR USE WITH THE INCLUDED THERMOCOUPLE, FREQUENCY MEASUREMENT AND DUTY CYCLE, CAPACITANCE AND NON-CONTACT VOLTAGE DETECTION FROM 100 TO 600 VOLTS AC. THERE IS A HOLD FEATURE WHICH FREEZES THE DISPLAY.

I HAVE HAD THIS MULTIMETER FOR A YEAR NOW AND PERSONALLY HAVE FOUND IT SUPERB FOR WHAT I REQUIRE IN DIY EFFECTS AND AROUND THE HOUSE USE.

FEATURES:****
HAS JUST ABOUT EVERYTHING I COULD NEED WITHOUT HAVING TOO MUCH. FOR THIS REASON I HAVE GIVEN IT 4 STARS. WOULD HAVE GAINED 5 HAD IT MEASURED INDUCTANCE. IT ALSO DOESN'T MEASURE HFE HOWEVER THAT IS UNIMPORTANT TO ME.

USEFULNESS:*****
AS ALREADY MENTIONED I FIND IT IS MORE THAN ADEQUATE FOR WHAT I REQUIRE. USE IT ALL THE TIME FOR ALL KINDS OF THINGS. EVEN USEFUL FOR CHECKIN THE TEMPERATURE OF FRIDGES; CHECK THE WINE FRIDGE IS READING CORRECT.  :icon_lol:

QUALITY:***
THE NON CONTACT VOLTAGE DETECTION ISN'T OVERLY ACCURATE BUT I HAVEN'T COME ACCROSS ONE THAT IS YET. THIS MULTIMETER ISN'T A FLUKE BUT IT IS IN A NICE RUBBER EASY TO GRIP PROTECTIVE POCKET WITH STAND ATTACHED. THE TEST LEADS ARE VERY NICE IN MY OPINION AND HAVE LITTLE PROTECTIVE TIPS THAT POP ON EACH END TO PROTECT THE TEST LEADS.  I REALLY LIKE THE QUALITY AND IT'S SPOT ON FOR ME BUT HAVE NEVER GOT MY HANDS ON A FLUKE OR OTHER TOP QUALITY METER SO I'M RATING THIS ONE CONSERVATIVELY. JUST AS A SIDE POINT THIS METER HAS REPLACED A REALLY OLD BECKHAM METER I USED TO BORROW FROM FAMILY.

RELIABILLITY:*****
NEVER HAD ANY PROBLEMS YET SO TOP MARKS. TO BE FAIR IT'S NOT USED IN ANY HOSTILE ENVIRONMENTS BUT NON THE LESS IT HAS HELD UP. RUNS OFF TWO AAA BATTERIES. THEY'VE NEVER RAN OUT SO FAR AND I'VE BEEN USNG IT FOR A YEAR.

OVERALL:****
I WOULD DEFINATELY RECOMMEND.


http://www.extech.com/instrument/products/alpha/ex330.html


http://uk.farnell.com/1271508/test-equipment/product.us0?sku=extech-instruments-ex330&_requestid=352631

I use those exact Xcelite cutters at work all the time, for fiber optic connections.  They are quite good, and have held up for a long time of moderate-light use.

Nice thread AC!

Nice thread idea. Good tools are essential to making and finishing these stompboxes out properly. I like them cutters to.... my wife bought some similar for beading purposes and I re-tasked them for stompboxes.. they work like a charm for getting in close to trim stuff up. They are technically called Bead Nippers. They are flush cutters with attitude... ;D ;D ;D

Here is a pic

(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=36229&g2_serialNumber=1)

Another tool (well, actually a product) l I could never live without

(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=36227&g2_serialNumber=1)

Sorry John, couldn't resist. TAG....

Thanks,

Mick

Great idea!

25W RadioShack Pencil Soldering Iron - $8.79

(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160650w345.jpg)

For the price it's OK, but really not good at all. It's just a basic soldering iron, comes with a really crappy stand (non-spiral) that is really hard to work with, and the tip gets corroded pretty quickly even with regular use (not touching solder to the iron to solder, that type of stuff). The replacement tip costs 2 or 3 bucks, and is fine. The iron gets too hot after a while, the temperature is not regulated, so you have to unplug it every 30 minutes or so and plug it back in to cool it off decently to avoid damaging components. This can get quite annoying. I wouldn't recommend buying this unless you need to solder a couple of joints immediately or you will never use it again after one use, because for a couple of uses it's OK, but definitely not great. Invest $30 or $40 more and get a cool Weller soldering station, it'll be worth it! 2 stars because it's such bad quality, and also because the cord is just very short and simply ways the pencil down, tipping it out of its stand sometimes (see below for stand).

RadioShack Soldering Iron Stand with Sponge - 7.99

(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160653w345.jpg)

Fine quality. Just your everyday spiral soldering iron stand, with a sponge in a separate compartment besides it. Only problems I've had so far are that sometimes the short cord of my RadioShack iron makes the stand almost fall over, and when you set the iron in it, the tip touches the plastic so that you actually have to stick the iron in "half-way" to avoid it melting the plastic and screwing up the tip. Works great besides these minor problems. 3.5 stars, due to the problems mentioned above.

Kronus (bought at RadioShack) Adjustable Wire Strippers/Cutters - 5.99

(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160700w345.jpg)

Bought this as a simple wire stripper. It has a small screw that you can slide in a gap and tighten to adjust the wire gauge you want to strip. The cutting part is composed to an acute angle used to strip the wire, and two parallel blades similar to a pair of scissors to cut the wire all the way through. I don't even use the screw, I just slowly cut through the outer shielding till I feel the harder inner copper wires (in stranded wire, not solid, I don't use solid) and then just pull the outer layer off with the strippers themselves. 4 stars. Would have gotten 5 stars if it had those little gaps used for seperate wire gauges so you could strip more accurately. The stripper/cutter strips/cuts... I don't know what gauge, but I know it could do 18 probably, so these are well-suited for DIY and stompboxes.

RadioShack-bought 90-foot roll of 22 AWG stranded wire (black, red, or white)

(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2077861w345.jpg)

I bought this because of the price mainly, 5.99 for 90 feet. Works great. I have a roll of black wire, and it's lasted me a while. It's strong wire that doesn't break when you bend it, simply hookup wire that you can use for pretty much anything. Haven't encountered a single problem with it. 5 stars out of 5.

66-foot roll of 3/4" wide electrical tape, from RadioShack

(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2265863w345.jpg)

Good insulating tape, glue is not the best quality, it tends to not stick too well after you've had a piece out from the roll for a couple of minutes, for example. Nothing else that's worth mentioning. 4 stars.

RadioShack roll of rosin-core 60/40 solder

Sorry, don't know which one I got so no pic  :(

Anyway, I got a really thin diameter of this stuff, for about $3.50 or so, a good amount of it, too, and it works fine. I don't like how flexible it is, it is really, really, flexible, but besides that it's just good solder. 4.5 stars!




;D

Pound Shop wire strippers!
Most pound shops seem to have these now, they are the type that you grip the plastic covered wire with the first set of jaws and a second set comes and takes off the insulation as you squeeze harder, just like Alien. I paid nearly £20 for a set once which lasted me 6 months before disintegrating, I am on my second £1 set now and both have lasted longer than the more expensive set. They are fully recyclable too when they do break! Often come with a second totally useless tool that is supposed to be able to cut and strip wire but doesn't.

Pound Shop solder sucker!
Works just as well as a much more expensive item that I bought a few years ago and the tip doesn't melt when I touch the tip of the iron. "Tip" from one of my work colleagues who is actually an electrical engineer. Run some Olive oil inside it and the solder doesn't stick to the piston, the spring or the walls.

Bolton market Dremmel tool set (£4.99)!
Came in a wooden box and has more parts than the £20+ set I originally bought. Strangely they look better quality too!

Stripboard Cutter, manual rotating type.
Available from Rapid or Maplins (expensive to buy and cheap looking). A jewellers screwdriver performs exactly the same task! (See pound shop for set of 6)

Small Dremmel type 12v DC drill
Bought years ago for detailing model trains. Works just as well for stompboxes.

Big Black and Decker 240vAC drill
The only one I have that will hold a 12.5mm bit for drilling boxes to take stomp switches, jacks and 9v adapters.

Various pliers, grips and cutters.
Various sources. The ones specially for model making seem the best for gripping and cutting. The cheap ones have soft jaws and won't last long.

Telephone wire
Available free from lots of sources including work and skips. Free multi coloured wire that is perfect for our purposes. Multi strand is best but I have used single strand when pushed!

WCL-100 Weller soldering station.
  Works great for a little while, tips are easy to clean, and it does medium to light duty soldering very nicely.
  Tips burn out or split and crack after light-medium use, and cost ~18 dollars.
  I won't be buying another.
  The base can be used as a lamp dimmer.
  It developed into a 40$, +18, +...nevermind buying these tips that explode or go cold, 3 in less than 1 year, this last one I was takin' it easy on too, tryin' to keep that dial set <just above '3' or 1/2 way.
  A couple times I 'hard heated' it for a short enough time to get through some medium/heavy solderings.
    3 out of 5.
  ...See Below...
  [So Dragonfly...what is the number of the replacement tips for the Weller WES-51 ?
  5 buk tips...that's the one I should have gotten  :icon_mrgreen:
  nothing quite like a freshly tinned / hot tip, IME.
  Since I had time to modify, I changed to 3/5, perhaps I can find good replacement tips for <18buxx a pop.
 

In direct contrast to Petes review of their cheap model :D


WELLER WES-51 SOLDERING STATION


Well, I've had this for a few years now, and after almost daily use (generally 2-8 hours a day, 4 or 5 days a week), I can definitely attest to its reliability. Heats up fast, cools down quickly, temp control is excellent - just a great iron. I've gone through the grand total of ONE tip in that 3 year time period...I probably have another couple months on the current one...(about $5 for tips at Fry's, IIRC)

Anyway....


QUALITY: 5
USEFULNESS: 5
OVERALL VALUE: 5

These are currently $87 at AMAZON (http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU)

If this thing EVER breaks (after 4 or 5 moves, its been through Hell) I'll DEFINITELY buy another.



(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/31DCYM29FRL._SL500_AA280_.jpg)

Hmmm...
I've had the Weller WLC-100 for about 6 years and I've only replaced the tip twice.
I use the 1/16" tips, comes with the 1/8" tip (good for amp work).
Replaced the sponge several times.

You can get the tips at Tubesandmore.com for $6.
I use it almost everyday .
Sometimes I forget and leave it on overnight as well.  :icon_frown:

Here's a cool site with the schematic and PCB for the thing as well!

http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/wlc100ly.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/wlc100.html&h=343&w=500&sz=9&hl=en&start=4&um=1&usg=__9xPk0brbkNPwlTexxl3uKhysjlg=&tbnid=SeXMmo0txIfN1M:&tbnh=89&tbnw=130&prev=/images%3Fq%3DWeller%2BWLC-100%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG

john

Quote from: MicFarlow77 on September 02, 2008, 03:44:22 PM


Sorry John, couldn't resist. TAG....

Thanks,

Mick

I had a feeling in my gut that I was going to see something like that.  :icon_mrgreen:

Quote from: John Lyons on September 03, 2008, 02:28:47 PM
Here's a cool site with the schematic and PCB for the thing as well!

http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/wlc100ly.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/wlc100.html&h=343&w=500&sz=9&hl=en&start=4&um=1&usg=__9xPk0brbkNPwlTexxl3uKhysjlg=&tbnid=SeXMmo0txIfN1M:&tbnh=89&tbnw=130&prev=/images%3Fq%3DWeller%2BWLC-100%26um%3D1%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG

john

Site is 404'd, but basic url hacking skillz revealed:
http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/wlc100ly.gif

That's the schematic you're talking about, I believe?

Sorry for filling up the posts here Andy... But here's the full LINK (http://images.google.com/imgres?imgurl=http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/wlc100di.gif&imgrefurl=http://www.uoguelph.ca/~antoon/circ/wlc100.html&h=285&w=352&sz=4&hl=en&start=6&usg=__S54ctBaFW4OV4hc0oIwzElPXfHE=&tbnid=flbd64Oe6J_JvM:&tbnh=97&tbnw=120&prev=/images%3Fq%3DWeller%2BWLC-100%26gbv%3D2%26hl%3Den%26sa%3DG) for the WLC-100 with schematic and parts info etc.
Thanks for the try asfastasdark  :icon_wink:

John

Mastercraft Auto Ranging DMM
(http://www.canadiantire.ca/media/images/products/images/Workshop/Electrical/TestersMeters/Meter/0520052_450_CC_v1_m56577569830765281.jpg)

Features:
Full autoranging multimeter, 8 functions and 28 ranges with auto power-off after 30 mins
DC voltage - 4V, 40V, 400V, 1000V
AC voltage - 4V, 40V, 400V, 750V
DC current - 400µA, 40mA, 400mA, 4A, 10A
Resistance - 400, 4k, 40k, 400k, 4M, 40M
Diode test
Continuity beeper
Frequency test
Capacitance test
Temperature 0 to 1000 degrees Fahrenheit (#0520037 probe not included)
Transistor test
Digital display size is 25mm, requires 1 AAA battery - not included


I bought this DMM on a whim... I now I have three but I couldn't pass this one up, it is on sale and has some neat features.

With this guy I could easily throw out all my other meters. It does everything, geez. It is quite heavy through and takes up a bit more space on the bench then I would like. Though it does have legs to tilt it back to save space. It has a big LCD screen with an option for a back light in case your measuring 400+V in the dark.

I have only had it for 3 weeks now and I still haven't discovered everything about it. Now that is a good thing and a bad thing... It has tons of useful functions but it also has just a ton of controls. There is so much tweaking and auto ranging jazz and crap it does... I wanna build effects not read a manual. I mean I can operate it quite easily but I feel it could be easier for me if I knew more about it and I know there are functions I have not unlocked from it. For example... I randomly wanted to try and measure the temp of a heat sink in a circuit on my BB. On the spot I could not figure out how to do it, it required some manual reading as it wasn't too simple.

It does seem to go throw batteries faster and I don't like the fact that is does not turn itself off after an extended period of time like my other DMMs, 30min is too long. Good sturdy test probes, cant complain.

Overall great unit, great price just a bit complex at times...may take a while to get used to it and use at its full potential. For the Canadian members I suggest you take a trip down to your local Crappy Tire and pick one up. $40 buck...

QUALITY : 4
USEFULNESS: 4
OVERALL VALUE: 4

Funny how a certain Adam Jones sprung to mind when I read the topic headline. :D

all right here goes:

husky mini pliers set-  6.99 home depot

for the price you just can't go wrong.  you get two  types of mini snips,  a flat pliers, a jagged pliers w/cutter, and the skinniest little needle nose you've ever seen.  the flat pliers are perfect for bending wire. the horizontal snips are cool for trimming parts off of pcb's, and i don't know what i ever did without those skinny ass needle nose.  they rule!  the snips are starting t get a little dull, but hey, look at the price.
usefullness:5
quality:3.5
overall value:4.5

xytronic 379 solder station.  49.00 on sale amazon.com

this thing is great.  heats up crazy fast, extremely well built, and i'm still on my first tip after 6 months.  you get a stand with it too. nice metal constrction. spot for a sponge, chore boy, and a little parts/water tray.  i love it.
usefullness:5
quality:5
value:5
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i293/rnfr/minipliers.jpg)
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i293/rnfr/379SmallWeb.jpg)

Ooo my turn.

Radioshack Mini Test Clip Adapters - $3.49

In my electronics classes at school we always used these spring clips that hold themselves on to where you are testing. I found these at Radioshack the other day. They are the springclips but they just fit over regular DMM leads.

(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160128w345.jpg)

These are sooooooooo much better than alligator clips. I bought a second set to permanently attach to my audio probe.

QUALITY 4
USEFULNESS 5+
VALUE 6

-Joe

i gotta get me some of those clips. haven't seen em at RShack though.  are they a new product?

Quote from: rnfr on September 04, 2008, 06:55:21 PM
i gotta get me some of those clips. haven't seen em at RShack though.  are they a new product?

I don't know how new they are but they are awesome. The catalog number for them is 270-334. They have them online and it also says they are available in most stores and will tell you if the store near you has them.

-Joe

The alligator clip version are nice as well.
Slips over meter probe tips.
I use those for amps where I need to clip onto the side of a chassis or a larger part to measure.

(http://rsk.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pRS1C-2160135w345.jpg)

Here's a couple tools and a couple DIY tool ideas...

- Good wire cutters & Good wire strippers (get a pair that can go to 24/26 AWG)

- Pre-Bonded wire from SmallBear.  This stuff is fantastic because you don't have to worry about tinning it.  Works great for pot and 3PDT lugs. 

- Wilton table top rubber grip clamp
(http://www.drillspot.com/pimages/453/45344_300.jpg)

- 6" ruler is essential if you want your holes and graphics to line up nice on your enclosure

- steel wool is excellent for polishing the copper traces on PCBs before you start populating

- set of files
(http://images.lowes.com/product/037103/037103420305.jpg)

- small handheld butane torch.  excellent for tightening up shrinkwrap, especially in already tight places.

- BREAKOUT BOX.  I made one for testing pedals.  It's basically the standard offboard wiring layout with I/O/Power jacks, a battery snap with leads going inside, and a 3PDT stompswitch/LED.  Then I have two additional holes for wires to come though that are hooked up inside to the 3PDT lugs for the PCB in/out/ground/+9v and I have rubber covered alligator clips attached to those.  Then what I do is put single sockets in the solder points for those spots on the PCB and just stick a clipped off used component lead in them and hook the alligator clips to them.  It's been really great having it to test with, especially when I'm working on multiple pedals or multi-effects combos and don't want to put each one in a separate box to test. 

- In-line sockets.  Can be purchased at Smallbear or EffectsConnection.  These are great cause you only need to clip off as many as you need.  They work fantastically well for transistors, diodes, and any components that are highly heat sensitive like Germaniums. 

- Tackle Box.  If you are like me, you are anal-retentive about storage and organization.  I have a fairly decent size fishing tackle box that I use for component storage.  Tackle boxes work great because they are tiered shelves with lots of small compartments for holding components. 

This is the one I have:
(http://hires.basspro.com/is/servlet/izoom/BassPro/63450?layer=comp&wid=500&hei=500&fmt=jpeg&qlt=100,0&op_sharpen=0&resMode=norm&op_usm=1.0,1.0,0.0,0)

- Swizz Army Tester.  These are great for several things.  One is obviously for cable testing if you make your own XLR / 1/4" cables.  But the main feature I use it on it is the ability to send a test tone out of any of the outputs.  So I can take a 1/4" cable from the output and go into the input of my pedal I'm testing and I have a constant tone to work with when I am audio probing.

(http://cachepe.zzounds.com/media/quality,85/brand,zzounds/fit,400by400/swizz-ctlefthorizontal-8b2dbb6d74c9eede1877338c80f17545.jpg)

C.K. 'precision range' snipe nose 120mm pliers number 3772.
I don't know where mine came from - but they are the best pliers for electronic work I have ever seen. And ungodly expensive it turns out!! Currently (until end Oct 2008) on special for $A46 in Australia at Mektronics  www.mektronics.com.au
Anyone ever see any CK (German) stuff cheap, let me know - I'm in love!

At the other end of the $ range, the cheapo stainless steel dental pick set I got from one of the USA bargain mail order places is absolutely essential for reworking thru hole boards.

Most useless tool: the $50 or so IDC cable pliers. They are supposed to make it a breeze to put sockets onto ribbon cables - but they are awkward & it is impossible to hold the cable exactly at right angles (which it must be!).
After sweating & swearing for years it occurred to me to take a scrap of vero, mount two IDC box header sockets on it, and then I have a jig - i just put the IDC doohickeys on the cable, plug them into the sockets (which aligns everything perfectly) then whack them closed with a hammer. Perfect every time.

+1 on the mini-vise.
I have a Panavise with nylon jaws that swivels and angles.
Great for soldering up PCBs.

The Swiss army tester would be great for a lot of things.
I made something like that with just the jacks I use for soldering XLR, RCA, and 1/4 Plugs.
No test tones or testing but it's nice to have a solid plug holder when soldering.

john

Quote from: John Lyons on September 05, 2008, 11:13:15 AM
+1 on the mini-vise.
I have a Panavise with nylon jaws that swivels and angles.
Great for soldering up PCBs.

So glad I found this. Was really starting to get sick of the alligator clips on my "helping hands" from radio shack chew up parts of my board, especially finding spots along the edges without traces so I don't chew up the copper. I'm working on a project now with the ground trace all the way around the board so was really thinking I had to do something. Just ordered one of these and the neoprene jaws!

just cover the clips with some e-tape! works fine for me.  although my helping hand tool doesn't really want to stay in position very well these days...

Poor man's parts organizers.

(http://www.mrdwab.com/john/temp/Poormans-storage.jpg)

Just use a cereal box or cracker box that you usually buy food in.
Once you finish the food you cut the box down to about 2x the height you want.
Cut the corners down to half that height and fold down and tape with packing tape.
For wide boxes you can make two rows with a center divider.
Plastic baggies can be found at hobby stores.

John

I have seen someone put a tiny narrow tube over the end of a jeweller's screwdriver - so that when they tweak a multi-turn trimpot, the protruding tube just fits over the adjusting screw & saves the screwdriver from sliding out. As soon as I can find the right tube, I'm doing that..

Quote from: rnfr on September 08, 2008, 03:51:31 PM
just cover the clips with some e-tape! works fine for me.  although my helping hand tool doesn't really want to stay in position very well these days...

I actually have started doing that but like you said, mine doesn't like to stay in position sometimes either - I don't feel as though I can always get the board stable enough for every position on the board that needs to be soldered - no fun soldering a component while the board starts moving under the touch of the iron. The vise was only $20 and it sounds like it'll take care of that so I figured why not.

(http://www.grassrootsaudio.com/pics/breakout.jpg)

Here is a pic of the breakout box that I put together.  I just used an old BNC video switcher box that someone gave me to scrap for parts and tooled the shell and gaff taped around it to make it look a little more presentable.  Basically it's just one of the 3PDT offboard wiring layouts with alligator clips to attach to the PCB.  What I do on the PCBs is just solder wires to the points that are the right size for the enclosure I'm put it in and then hooking the alligator clips to those wires.  And in case you're wondering, I put in the extra 1/4" jacks for the wires to go through so they wouldn't be constantly rubbing against a harsh edge of the drill hole and the jacks were quick and easy to toss in instead of trying to look for some grommets. 

Hi All,

Great idea Dragonfly! First I too am really happy with the Weller WES51. Doesn't get the workout of yours but has worked flawlessly for the past two years, tempature adjustment is quick, tips are reasonably priced, widely available and easy to change.

To help see clearly I use a desklamp with articulated arm to get light in close to the work,  a head magnifier is a big help also a magnifying glass/jewelers loupe, optical center punch for doing layouts and a dental mirror to see places otherwise invisible.

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1238.jpg)(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1205.jpg)

Step bits and reamers. The small step bit does holes up to 1/2" in 1/32" steps so perfect for pedals and the big one goes up to 1 3/8" for doing tube sockets. Tape has endless uses, here as drill stops.

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1231.jpg)

I use mosty Teflon wire and these do a pretty good job of dealing with that. Squeeze them once, release, roll the wire 90 degrees, squeeze again and you're good to go.

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1239.jpg)

Dremel with diamond cutoff wheel, slices through PCB's like a hot knife through butter. Dremel's invaluable, drilling/cutting pcb's, grinding, polishing cutting IEC socket holes in chassis' etc...

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1236-1.jpg)

Board holder, a necessary evil, there has to a better product out there then this. Thumbscrews difficult to turn, two ball joints affected by loosening one screw equals collapse, alligator clips fall out, blah, i use it but...where's the thumbs down icon? Hemostat= soldering heatsink, soldering clamp when doing Millenium boards... Dial calipers use all the time, measuring lead diameters for drilling pcb holes, measuring  parts to figure hole sizes for enclosures. Use them when converting/sizing ExpressPCB boards from a Print Screen into actual board size. Dental pick, manipulating/fishing leads where my fingers/pliers  won't reach. Use them to clean the flux off solder joints then brush with a small, very short bristled paint brush. Good for picking foreign objects out of the dried finish on those painted boxes. Deburring tool, use it after the large stepbit in thin walled chassis'.

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1233.jpg)

Cheap solder sucker works great! Engineer's square for doing layouts. This solder wick is a real tight weave and perhaps a bit heavy for pcb work, not as good as some I've used but also better then some other stuff tried. IC puller, again a cheapy, does the job but i'm sure there are better (and more expensive) ones available, wider tabs, say the width of the typical IC body i think, would make it a better product. The photo's backdrop, layout/drill guide, TurboCAD software, been using for a few years see no reason to change.

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1235.jpg)

Fluke 8050A multimeter, fantastic!!!, love the look, the buttons have nice solid feel when engaging, clunk, solid little tank. Thirty dollars on ebay ;D

(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1234.jpg)

Thanks
dave

Dave do you leave in Toronto? I just see that Active braid hehe...

Its great stuff, shame they started selling new stuff. I bought a ton of the kind you have, it smells great when desoldering.

One of my most useful "tools" is a 15ml bottle of "re-grip". I think this stuff is a suspension of coarse valve grinding paste in machine oil.
Anyway, you put a drop on the tip of your screwdriver or pliers & it increases the friction by X5 or so.
Used it the other day to get a very smooth bell shaped bathroom tap cover off - without the magic, the wrench just slipped. I expect you can get equivalents anywhere.
It's so "grippy" I have used it to get out completely worn away security screws from plugpacks, just using a philips head driver!!

LEAD BENDERS :

Cheap, and they get a TON of use here. Quickly and accurately bend leads on resistors, diodes, caps, etc to the size you need...makes layouts look great and simplifies pcb stuffing. Grab a handful of resistors, watch TV, and pre-bend them to size without even having to take your eyes off the football game !  Woo Hoo !  :)

Anyway, you can find them online at various paces that sell electronics supplies...especially stuff that deals with radios and amplifiers. Mine came with a BUNCH of other tools (used) on ebay :)

USEFULNESS: 5
QUALITY: 5
OVERALL VALUE: 5

(http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2008-7/1317397/lightbulbeffects016.jpg)

Quote from: John Lyons on September 03, 2008, 02:28:47 PM

(http://www.cheapham.com/wellwe-wlc100.jpg)

Hmmm...
I've had the Weller WLC-100 for about 6 years and I've only replaced the tip twice.
I use the 1/16" tips, comes with the 1/8" tip (good for amp work).
Replaced the sponge several times.

john

Arg! Mine stopped working (getting hot) at just over a year old.
It was the ceramic heating element that went bad.
I had to pay 18.00 for a new heater assembly, and it didn't even come with a tip.

I'm feeling burned by this one!  :icon_evil:
(pun intended)


Anyone else have to replace the ceramic heater in their iron (any make/model)?

I've posted this before but this thread shouldn't be without it.

From Radio Shack online catalog.
Mini - drill with PCB bits in handle/trace cutter/poker/scraper

Sometimes I miss a pad when drilling out the PCB.
This tool has made it easy to drill that forgotten hole without taking a half populated board to the press.

It great for poking around where your fingers cant fit, like to flick that wire out from under a pot.

The pointer is sharp hardened steel and cuts traces like butter.

It's also great used as a probe with a volt/ohm meter. I have alagator clips on the ends of my meter leads. I clip one to ground and the other to the pointer bit on the mini-drill
Then I can poke at very small areas on the board and get a good metering.

(http://www3.telus.net/david65/pedal-pics/Mini-Drill-Parts.jpg)

^do they sell these in Canada?

Quote from: kurtlives on September 11, 2008, 08:51:32 PM
^do they sell these in Canada?

Chris, You'll find them not far from Active Surplus at Lee Valley down on King St.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&cat=1,180,42337,41753&p=41753

I've got one of these but haven't tried it on PCB's, the Dremel is the goto tool for me.

http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=32297&cat=1,180,42337

Quote from: kurtlives on September 10, 2008, 11:45:41 PM
Dave do you leave in Toronto? I just see that Active braid hehe...

Its great stuff, shame they started selling new stuff. I bought a ton of the kind you have, it smells great when desoldering.

I'm around the corner in Hamilton but was in T.O. a couple weeks ago and get there whenever i can. Another really good shop you have is Honson Computer up at College and Spadina. It's now in the Home Hardware (and used to be almost beside Active, it's formerly Supremetronics). Great source for caps, resistors, transistors, IC's, sockets, etc......

Take care
dave

A 20c (or more likely free!) 'tool' I'd hate to be without: chunk of foam.
Put the components in the board.. put the foam chunk on top of the board.. invert.. now the legs are poking up & none of the components can fall out.
OK, for a few hundred bucks you can buy a commercial version, with rails that hold a bunch of PCBs in at the same time.
But, I prefer my single chunk of foam.

yeahm i really liked Aenima  :P

Quote from: nordine on September 12, 2008, 01:24:54 AM
yeahm i really liked Aenima  :P

Lateralus is better!  :P

-Joe

Quote from: calpolyengineer on September 12, 2008, 06:46:02 AM

Quote from: nordine on September 12, 2008, 01:24:54 AM
yeahm i really liked Aenima  :P

Lateralus is better!  :P

-Joe

define "better"  ;D

(sorry guys, lets get back on topic)

Quote from: Paul Perry (Frostwave) on September 12, 2008, 01:09:56 AM
A 20c (or more likely free!) 'tool' I'd hate to be without: chunk of foam.
Put the components in the board.. put the foam chunk on top of the board.. invert.. now the legs are poking up & none of the components can fall out.
OK, for a few hundred bucks you can buy a commercial version, with rails that hold a bunch of PCBs in at the same time.
But, I prefer my single chunk of foam.

I keep a few pieces of styrofoam around to use in mocking up  pcb's & eyelet boards to check component spacings  and the overall look of the finished project. Do the layouts in two dimensions in the computer then check all three dimensions with a mockup/model.

(http://img361.imageshack.us/img361/8682/croppedimg0122fc5.jpg)

QuoteI keep a few pieces of styrofoam around to use in mocking up  pcb's & eyelet boards to check component spacings  and the overall look of the finished project. Do the layouts in two dimensions in the computer then check all three dimensions with a mockup/model.

That is a really good idea!

Watch out for static sensitive parts (mosfets and some ICs) with that method though.
Gotta use the anti static foamf for those  :icon_biggrin:

john

Quote from: John Lyons on September 12, 2008, 08:16:23 PM
Watch out for static sensitive parts (mosfets and some ICs) with that method though.
Gotta use the anti static foamf for those  :icon_biggrin:

john

Thanks John, I'll keep that in mind!  I do have a bit of that pink anti-static foam but no piece near big enough to use in this way. I've always used sockets in builds for IC's and transistors (unless it's getting a heatsink) so I just stick a socket in the mockup. The sensitive bits stay packed away (where I can find them) until time to fire the thing up, if i didn't fry them first with static electricity, they would probably have gone missing in the confusion of the bench top.;D 

Take care
dave

I received a 6 pound box of various diodes and some caps.
I used some of that white styrofoam to sort those.
Just wrote the part number on it and poked the parts in the foam in their respective groups/values.

Quote from: John Lyons on September 12, 2008, 10:24:30 PM
I received a 6 pound box of various diodes and some caps.
I used some of that white styrofoam to sort those.
Just wrote the part number on it and poked the parts in the foam in their respective groups/values.

Where do you get a box that big full of elec???

I don't know whether a big sheet of glass counts as a tool, but I found this on another electronics forum & it strikes me as useful:

"I use a loose pane of tempered glass on top of my desk as a work surface, and I have found it to be extremely useful. I cut on it, solder on it, and seal plastic bags on it with a soldering iron. I mix up extremely small amounts of epoxy right on it with a razor blade, then scrape the minimal leftovers (if any) off before it completely hardens.. or after it hardens, cuz it just doesn't matter. I stick excess packing tape to it during a project, then scrape clean when done. And.. I print up schematics and place them under the glass when necessary. And I jot down hand-written notes right on the glass, with a fine-tip Sharpie. Writing comes out as clear as on paper, and it wipes right off."

I think that bit about putting the paperwork UNDER the glass is sheer genius. :icon_smile:
(but I don't think much of sealing plastic bags with a soldering iron - in my experience, if you have a plated tip on your iron & it touches PVC, it does something AWFUL to the surface of the iron.)

Nice tip that glass sheet table. One use for this could be using it for sanding something as flat as possible, put a sheet of sandpaper on glass sheet. 

http://nostalgiapelit.servut.us/pajatso.html (http://nostalgiapelit.servut.us/pajatso.html) Been kickin me in ass since I could have few thick glass sheets from these when they junked those mechanical ones

Quote from: Paul Perry (Frostwave) on September 14, 2008, 10:31:08 AM
I don't know whether a big sheet of glass counts as a tool, but I found this on another electronics forum & it strikes me as useful:

I think that bit about putting the paperwork UNDER the glass is sheer genius. :icon_smile:
(but I don't think much of sealing plastic bags with a soldering iron - in my experience, if you have a plated tip on your iron & it touches PVC, it does something AWFUL to the surface of the iron.)

I use a marble top on my wooden desk.  I found it in the trash.  I must admit it is pretty useful and have a less "cold feeling" than glass.
I used glass before, But a white surface is also better for seeing all those tiny parts.

For the PVC and iron, it is quite normal, this polymer is full of chlorine.  It's like when you store an open container of chlorine (for the pool) in your shed and you put your bicycle there also.  A good way of ruining metallic finishes... 

PVC is a problem when a living place gets on fire.  You get some very toxic chlorine gas.  That is why things used in buildings that are made of PVC are full of fire and fumes retardants, and sometimes also a fire proof coating...

My collection of tools

http://koltun.ovh.org/narzedzia.html

Bart, you play guitar with gloves, just like David Bowie !  ;D

(http://koltun.ovh.org/foto/guitarstand.jpg)

Quote from: frank_p on September 14, 2008, 03:53:56 PM
Bart, you play guitar with gloves, just like David Bowie !  ;D

(http://koltun.ovh.org/foto/guitarstand.jpg)

No. ;) I use it only for carrying cases and coiling cables.

I bought one of these kits a couple of weeks ago...

http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=5572&itemType=PRODUCT&iMainCat=459&iSubCat=460&iProductID=5572

My first attempt at powder coating with this unit was less than successful.  I also learned how hard this stuff is to remove even when the finish isn't as good as hoped.  Subsequent attempts, however, have been much better.

Hey John, long time no see.
Any pics of boxes with your new powder system?
I've though of trying this out but the colors available (mostly) are so different than what I do usually.
john

  Weller WCL-100
  I'm pointing out that I was mistakenly calling the HE's...'Tips', the tips last really well, it's the heating elements that are problematic.
  I give it a 4 on scale of 1 to 10, because when it works it solders really well [1], and looks cool[1], and the base/dial makes nice lamp dimmer [2], and one more point because I'm angry at myself for ordering a buncha shipping and two 1/16th tips I don't really need.
  RS sells irons with no shipping charges, buy 3 and they are much >3x as reliable, 5x less expensive, this is a reasonable account I believe:
  Buy 3 RS irons [they were 8 buxx apiece] and guaranteed you can solder reliably for a very, very long time.
  Buy a Weller WCL-100 and 5 x HE-40 [heating elements 40Watt], and get better results more easily when soldering, but with higher maintenance, downtimes, and cost.
  The deal with these things is the tips last and work great, the heating elements don't last.
  I just recieved the components I [stupid] ordered from:
  http://www.tubesandmore.com/
  I wish I could find the page that actually lists them now, a vague depiction of component, IIRC.
  And still have the not so old, recently replaced, HE-40 w/Chunx'o ceramic missing, HE-40 [needs replaced...again...after not very much light to moderate use...and they are
  18 buxx a pop, a little hard to change, plus shipping.
  Unless I can find a better price point for the HE-40's. 6 buxx [@tubesandmore] is for the Tips which last, not the heating element which  would  need many of.
  Time to cut the huge losses encountered with Weller, and return to RS ~quality and great reliability.
  The only thing that beats the RS deal that I've found is the garage sale irons, I swear some must be from the 60's and still solder like no sweat.
  I'm not spending hundreds again to find out what hundreds gets ya in a soldering set up, cheap wins in my view...YMMV, and, I hope it does !

  About the WCL-100.
  It is a competitive product, I'm sure the R&D is great, I just went through a couple tips quickly, and don't always order the right stuff, part of my dissatisfaction was self induced. RS iron is a no-brainer.
  + I'm sure they're making WCL-100's now, I don't know that I would really want be responsible for changing the flow at Weller, the guy I talked to on the phone was actually really cool.
  The 'ol HE-40' is hangin' in there and the 1/16th tip works great !
   Let the tool reviews go on !
 

just got this at the ol' ace hardware down the street.
(http://i75.photobucket.com/albums/i293/rnfr/drillbrush.jpg)
attach it to your drill and it works awesome for roughing up corroded copper on stripboard.  haven't tried it for making pcb's yet, but i'm sure it'd work great. no more little green shavings from those plastic scrubbers!  i think it was about 2.50 and worth every penny.
5/5,5/5.

Quote from: frank_p on September 14, 2008, 03:53:56 PM
Bart, you play guitar with gloves, just like David Bowie !  ;D

(http://koltun.ovh.org/foto/guitarstand.jpg)

That's pretty freaky Bowie...

Maybe a bit late to bump, but I wanted to add this for others.
More reviews from me! Yee!

:.:.: Techspray Prowick Desoldering Wick Blue
Mouser P/N: 577-1804-5F
Price: US$3.14

This is a great little desoldering tool, and cheap too. Just your average desoldering wick, comes in a little blue "roll" (its kinda... weird, but works very well for storing the stuff without having it roll off the "roll"). Anyway, it absorbs solder at a really good rate, great for cleaning up ugly blobs that you may develop on a piece of perf or vero or whatever your using if you're a bit messy (like me. This is a first build though... ;) ). A problem with it is that the entire braid gets pretty hot while and up until about 15 seconds after desoldering, but that is probably usual and I'm guessing this happens for all desoldering braids. The main problem, though it can be avoided if you're careful and actually pay attention, is that if the soldering iron accidentally touches the case while hot, it melts the case and makes it smell pretty bad while it is melting. But of course that is a stupid thing to do and only happens when you don't pay attention ;).

QUALITY: 5/5
USEFULNESS: 5/5
OVERALL VALUE: 5/5

:.:.: RadioShack rosin-core solder (.050" diameter, 60/40)
RadioShack P/N: 64-006
Price: US$3.89

Much better than the RS solder I got last time (see my review on the first page of this topic). First time I got really thin stuff because me uncle (who had been soldering much longer than I have, but not for stompboxes and that kinda stuff) recommended me to get the thinnest gauge possible, which I did, and ended up bending so easily that it was hard to use it. Anyway, after my idiot friend threw it away (I left it at his house and he made up an excuse that he was afraid to get testicular cancer while the roll of solder was in his pocket... etc.), I headed over to RS again and this time got a bit thicker. This stuff works perfect. Just the right amount of flexibility for me, and not too expensive either. I've learned to tin my tips and how to actually solder correctly by the time I started my first stompbox (yeah, I know, right) and this stuff works great. Just the roll is a bit small and sometimes I wish they had put a bit (but just a little, little bit) less flux in there because I sometimes see it on my board, little oil-like blobs.

QUALITY: 4/5
USEFULNESS: 5/5
OVERALL VALUE: 4/5

:.:.: 20-function Digital Multimeter
Link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEBDIX:IT&item=320313833478
eBay Store: source9850
Price: AU$6.99 + AU$6.99 shipping (~US$9.14 total)

Decent multimeter. Cheap, I think it looks the best of all of the cheap (<US$15) DMMs on eBay, nice black and classy. This seller ships FAST and I recommend him to everyone! Comes with two test-leads and the following features:
DCV:
- 1000V
- 200V
- 20V
- 2000mV
- 200mV
ACV:
- 750V
- 200V
DCA:
- 200uA
- 2000uA
- 20mA
- 200mA
ACA:
- 10A
Resistance:
- 2000K
- 200K
- 20K
- 2K
- 200R (good for checking continuity)

- Diode testing
-NPN/PNP transistor gain checking

It comes with a 9V battery included. And as a bonus, you get a box with a little red Chinese luck charm thingy! I don't know what the hell it is, but it's pretty funny!  :D

:.:.: Handmade wooden picks
eBay link: http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&item=370114190609
eBay store: Fidis Custom Picks
Price: US$0.01 + US$2.00

These are really cool. I had about three bucks rotting in my PayPal account after I had spent five of the eight dollar something on some music on iTunes, so I decided to go ravage eBay for cheap crap I could buy. I don't know how many things I've bid for, it's crazy: Led Zeppelin picks, Hendrix picks, resistors, all kinds of stuff. But I won this at the starting bid of US$0.01 + US$2.00! You get three wooden picks and you can choose the woods you'd like. I didn't choose woods so he just sent me three random ones. I got kingwood and two other woods, they were labeled in a plastic bag. Anyway, these are thick, beautiful grain, and sound great! I really like these and will be ordering more in the future. I recommend these to anyone who wants to try some exotic picks!

That's it for today with the reviews!

That rotary wire brush a couple of posts back.. personally, I'm happier with a big wooden brush with steel wires.
I think that when I am brushing the solder side of stripboard (which I always do, in an attempt to remove any stray shorts from splashed solder) that it helps to be able to brush in the direction of the strips.

okay, this is the soldering station i have.
(http://www.circuitspecialists.com/products/full/6438.jpg)
it's $42 at http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438 (http://www.circuitspecialists.com/prod.itml/icOid/6438) and has a variable temp knob and ceramic heater. it heats up in like 20 seconds and has a sweet squishy yellow grip on it (that for some reason, i think they advertise as anti-bacterial??). they have a bunch of different tips too, for just a couple bucks.

BUT, the best part is, when you spend 50 bucks at that site, you get a free prize. i got one of their multimeters and one of their 10-piece clipper/plier sets (which they don't offer anymore).
(http://www.circuitspecialists.com/products/full/8883.jpg)
but the multimeter is sweet. totally, infinity percent worth it. 50 bucks for a sweet soldering station, dmm, and 8 bucks in whatever random parts you need? do it.

Impromptu vice - priceless!  ;)

(http://www.steveevans.org/pedals/vice.jpg)

DREMEL WORKSTATION

(http://images.lowes.com/product/080596/080596022624.jpg)


I just picked this up the other day with the help of my tax refund!  It is unbelievable.  One of those tools that you don't know how you lived without it before.  I bought this and a small Jacobs chuck attachment for my corded dremel that holds the miniature drill bits and it makes drilling PCBs an absolute breeze.  A larger board that would have taken me 25-30 min with a drill press, I got through in 15 with this.  Plus you can swivel the drill 90 degrees in each direction so you could attach a cutoff wheel/sander/polishing wheel/etc.  It's wonderful. 

  Thick Rubber Band...
  Wrapped around the handles, it makes a quick 'light-vise' out of any pair of pliers.