Im building a few germanium fuzzes and Id rather not socket the transistors to keep the builds cleaner and ensure that nothing vibrates loose over time. I know I need to get in and out quick when soldering germanium transistors but is there anything else I should consider or look out for? Does everyone socket theirs? I've noticed a number of builders that use germaniums solder them but they probably have a lot more stock to select from and test before they build pedals.
you could try to use an alligator clip or something as a heat sink on the device for further protection. If you're iron is adjustable heat, adjust the heat down real low. Other than that I don't know.
but is there anything else I should consider or look out for?
Starting with prepared, clean surfaces involved with the solder joint makes good 'flow' happen more easily.
One lead at a time helps keep the heat from ramping up as far in the transistor body, generally short heating then a cooling spell.
Does everyone socket theirs?
Mike doesn't, I often do.
I think most people make them out to be more sensitive then they really are.
On my first build (crappy at soldering then, right) I unsoldered and resoldered my OC44 at least 5 times. Worked fine...
I always solder my transistors, BJTs, FETs, mojo transistors. Like you said, get in there get the job done then get the hell out.
just get in and out as quick as you can... shouldn't take more than 1-3 seconds anyway.
clean the legs, make sure the pad is not greasy or dirty, pre-heat the soldering iron, stick the iron-tip in so it touches both - the pad and the leg and apply solder from the side - you shall be able to do it in 1 second. a tiny bit of solder is enough - just there and back.
use 60/40 stuff, never use lead free for soldering sensitive parts,
use solder with the flux core
use flux in addition to that
clean the pads
sink the leg with a clip lead
If you do that you should be fine. I have a 5 watt iron I keep just for soldering delicate parts. I have it not because I'm worried about frying parts, but rather so I don't even have to consider it when I am debugging ;D
I also use a special Kester solder that I like just for that (can't find it anywhere anymore :( I think its like 63 / 37 or something wierd like that)
Zach
Quote from: Boogdish on November 16, 2008, 11:08:49 PM
you could try to use an alligator clip or something as a heat sink on the device for further protection. If you're iron is adjustable heat, adjust the heat down real low. Other than that I don't know.
Not so sure about the low heat thing: http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=51215.0
yeah, higher high is probably preferred. it will take less time to solder the joint...
And solder them in last. Get the resistors, caps and leads all done, then put in the transistors. Can tin the holes if you want, but as said I usually just do a lead at a time with a cool down period.
I soldered these Ge suckers with no problemo:
(http://i210.photobucket.com/albums/bb292/frequencycentral/c0f34684.jpg)
Quote from: Boogdish on November 16, 2008, 11:08:49 PM
you could try to use an alligator clip or something as a heat sink on the device for further protection
I used to do this until I had the confidence to just solder them straight in, I'v never ruined one yet.