Hey!
I have to make a Mi-audio Blues Pro Overdrive Pedal clone.
I just like it so much, but could some one tell me where I could get a schematic for it? Or what kind of overdrive schematic solution it copies?
Thanks!
I'm guessing but it sounds very much like a modded Tube Screamer. A little more bass, smoother highs maybe. That one is pretty low cost, not a bad purchase since it does sound good with certain amps (hint: Carr amp)
(http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/948/bluesproschematicgm9.png)
(http://diy-layout.com/diyl/19/render)
BOM:
http://diy-layout.com/19
Hey! Thats awsome!
Thanks! I Will deffenetly build this one!
WOW, I guess I was right. Look at the schematic!
So, its a Tubescreamer. So I am guessing that that OD-Fuzz swich swiches between different Clipping Diodes? Does any one know what is swiched?
Ok I got it. One diode is swiched out and in. Thats the case.
Soundwise the BP has a TS-type tone with more bass, output and a bit softer distortion.
From a technical view it's similar to the old Barber Tonepump 1.
The posted schem differs a bit from mine.
In normal mode both diodes are aktive and the RC-network on the first stage is 1K/220n.
In fuzz mode one diode is lifted from the circuit via switch. Furthermore the 22uF in the RC-network is switched in parallel with the 220n cap.
JHS
honestly, I don't see that as a tubescreamer. maybe a similar sound, but everything else is totally different other than the fact they both use opamps.
Quote from: JHS on February 01, 2010, 08:50:50 AM
Soundwise the BP has a TS-type tone with more bass, output and a bit softer distortion.
From a technical view it's similar to the old Barber Tonepump 1.
The posted schem differs a bit from mine.
In normal mode both diodes are aktive and the RC-network on the first stage is 1K/220n.
In fuzz mode one diode is lifted from the circuit via switch. Furthermore the 22uF in the RC-network is switched in parallel with the 220n cap.
JHS
Does that mean there is a switch,diode ,and 220n cap missing from the above schematic ?
Cause switching just one of the two diodes out wouldnt sound too great I wouldnt think.
Can you post yours so I can understand a little better what happens with the switch ? thanks
Hey Served ! -How did You get on with this ?
I knocked one up because I'd never heard one before ( despite being Australian !) and, I was also intrigued by the tone control.
Is it supposed to be a Gargantuan,wildly oscillating ,molten larva fuzz or is that just me ?
Not quite what I expected !
I just wired it up in fuzz mode 'cos I was impatient and I did'nt add the extra cap which I would assume would make it even more umm...Tubby?
Definately a breadboard tweaker - I just dove straight in as my boards are full right now.
This pedal sounds like a tube screamer with more
bass. It sounds nice.
O.K. so I just went and chopped the diodes out and had alligator clips flying everywhere and it's got WAY more bottom end than a TS - More than a TS with a fatmod and still super saturated and kind of fuzzy.
I wish I could hear a factory model But, they don't have a distributor on my little island ( yet !).
I'd love to find a retailer in Tassie if I could,... just as an excuse to travel there! Man I love that place. Any suggestions?
I'll put the feelers out !
So I built it.
But its not working.
The voltages are.
4,8V
4,2V
2,1V
0V
4,2V
1,7V
7,7V
8,4V
I tested it with audio probe. And I get really wierd pops and hiss from pin 1 and pin 2. Pin 3 is giving Ok guitar sound. So any suggestions? I think the problem is there?
Mybe I used some bad components. I really dont know whats wrong with it. I have checked all the components twice. Pot wiring is ok. Everything seems to be ok.
The sound I get from pin 1 and 2 is the same I get from the output. Opamp should be fine, I changed it and the same thing is happening. If you could spot any wierd voltages, let me know.
1 thing I can say more, is that the sound I get is not constant hiss. It pops and crackles, nothing changes when I touch the components, so there souldnot be any cold points.
Sorry to be such a newb. I have only built a valvecaster varients and big daddy from runoffgroove. What does the red and white square with the red dot in the middle mean? I can only guess it means cut the vero board trace at that point?
Yes it means cut.
Thanks!
And I am not getting anysound on the veroboard version also. I guess I have a broken component then. Thats bad!
If I disconnected C9 from veroboard, I got sound for 3 sec and then it fades. I wonder, why is that?
Now if I disconnected the diodes. I get more sound, but not much longer.
Quote from: kupervaser on January 31, 2010, 06:24:31 AM
(http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/948/bluesproschematicgm9.png)
Keep in mind that I made a mistake when I traced this pedal. C4 is
not 22uf, but 220nF.
Good luck with it! Hope you like it ;)
Served- I did'nt use that layout But, going by those voltages I'm guessing You have a problem at Vr somwhere.
Sorry I can't be more helpful.
Thanks mates! I am working on it! It seems to me that I had a broken component.
Quote from: kupervaser on January 31, 2010, 06:24:31 AM
(http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/948/bluesproschematicgm9.png)
The Tone pot looks like it's wired as a volume control. In the schematic, it is simply a variable series resistor between R4 and the connection point of R7 and C7.
Is there a schematic that is 00% correct?
This one doesn't show the fuzz switch, as described by JHS:
(https://www.gearslutz.com/board/attachments/geekslutz-forum/294785d1338688669-op-amps-output-volume-guitar-pedal-blues-pro-schematic.png)