Ok i build the EH LBP! from this vero. But had no 10k res so used a 4k7. Also the caps are ceramics instead of greenies.
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/syn187/EHLPB1VERO2.gif)
It works, but has alot of grounding type noise
Would this be because of the caps? or is there something i need to do to ground it (its not in an enclosure yet).
The Q1 is - 2N3904
Also with a 3dpt switch how do i wire an led to it?
- - -(this one)
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Could i put ground out from F7 on the board (bottom right)?
The whole bottom row (row F) is ground if that is what you are asking, yes.
Thanks for that. I thought it was. Anyway i just rewired it differently and it works fine now.
Wired with a 3dpt switch and led, changed a few wires around (bassed of a different diagram) and its great.
Gave the pedal a proper go today. It works BUT has alot of fuzz on the sound, instead of being clean?
Hi, ive built this and it sounds good...if it sounds fuzzy maybe its a poorly filtered power supply. If its a power supply you're using, is it regulated (puts out 9v at the tip)? Cheap wall warts also have notoriously bad filtering which can cause fuzz. Maybe throw a battery in and see if it is your power source..
Cheers
Glenn
QuoteBut had no 10k res so used a 4k7
So get another 4.7k and add it to the other one in series to get it closer to 10k. You may be nailing that tranny w/ too much current.
Also be sure you haven't reversed the pinouts of the transistor.
Quoteor is there something i need to do to ground it (its not in an enclosure yet).
Yes, box it up in an enclosure. It's going to hum like mad without it. ;)
oh yeah i also double up the walwart hum. if it's the DC buzz you are hearing than you can try the little trick of running a 100uF cap from positive of the power to the ground.
Ok forgot to mention that its boxed up and has no grounding problems. I am running of 9v battery, but still has the wierd fuzzy/bassy sound.
Will try the extra 4k7 resistor (can this really make that much difference) and see how that goes. Im pretty sure everything is in the correct spot other than the small resistor.
Also as i play a note on the gutar the led gets brigther, but then dulls down when not playing? The more notes i play the more strobe type effect it has.
QuoteAlso as i play a note on the gutar the led gets brigther, but then dulls down when not playing? The more notes i play the more strobe type effect it has.
Whoa red flag. You've got AC in your DC! (See a doctor...)
Okay so I'm guessing you're using a 3PDT? You can't use an LED w/ a DPDT as shown, sorry. In either case, disconnect all LED connections and then measure your output jack to see if it has DC on it.
I want to know exactly how he did it so I can make fuzz boxes out of the stack of LPB pcb's I have. :icon_smile:
I used this wiring diagram for the LPB1.
(http://i17.photobucket.com/albums/b81/syn187/NPNBoostwiring.jpg)
Ok this might be the problem...
I have the Black negative batt lead going to the 3dpt instead of the positive (red) and the posivtive going to the board. so i need to change the black to the in sleeve then add a wire from the board to the switch. Will do it tonight and see how it goes.
http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/ (http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/thoughts/wiring-up-a-1590b/)
ground going to the 3pdt instead of +, LED connected to + (DC jack or on the board)
also, input of the fx is grounded if on by-pass
I think the 430k and 43k resistors need to switch places.
Quote from: blooze_man on June 01, 2011, 07:55:26 PM
I think the 430k and 43k resistors need to switch places.
You think or they do need to be switched?
They do.
http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/schematics/lpbschem.gif (http://fuzzcentral.ssguitar.com/schematics/lpbschem.gif)
This and other schematics show the layout to be correct. Higher value R from 9V to base and lower value from base to ground.
Aww crap. That's what I get when I trust my powerful memory. :icon_lol:
If you switch around the wiring to the LED then that SHOULD eliminate the fuzz and the "brightness when playing" issue.
You need to wire one side of the LED, via the resistor, to your V+ input. Then, wire the other side to your 3PDT (V-/Ground)
Good Luck ;D
Thanks for the help guys. After many hour mucking with it. And alot of rewiring i got it working.
I ended up wiring it without the led till i got it working correctly then just added the led and another ground and away it went.
Very happy now my first build it complete...
Congrats! Yeah that's what I was saying in my earlier post: elminate what you don't need first, then measure. If it makes you feel any better, I did the exact same thing on my LPB which was one of my first builds. I've built about 20 since. :D
Quote from: DonB on June 02, 2011, 09:02:47 AM
Thanks for the help guys. After many hour mucking with it. And alot of rewiring i got it working.
I ended up wiring it without the led till i got it working correctly then just added the led and another ground and away it went.
Very happy now my first build it complete...
+1
when i build ckts, i i don't even have power switching on my input jack. just need to confirm if the ckt works.
then i do the other things when boxing it up