It's been nearly half a decade since I last soldered anything, and up until this point I've been working with kit PCBs. How hard can stripboard be?
(http://i.imgur.com/MHhlb.jpg)
It began with me accidentally ordering a 6-pin socket for a 555. Downhill from there, including a face-palming episode of using the wrong side of the board.
Surprisingly, at one point, It was almost working (555 astable oscillator, but it was working in a monostable way) but then I accidentally nudged the resistor leads without noticing and it shorted, blowing both LEDs.
But hey, it was fun, and at least I've learned something on some reasonably inexpensive parts. I think.
Could be worse! (Don't know how but I can imagine) :icon_mrgreen:
Are you using proper solder with resin core?
are you using a welding torch?...randomly. ;D
No to the welding torch, but my soldering iron was very cheap and is a bit tired.... seems to get hotter on one side than the other and all the solder collects there in a big lump and sometimes I don't notice until it's on the board.
Proper solder? All it says on the side is SN 99.3%, CU 0.7%. I'll take that as a no.
Silver solder? You really need to go find some 60/40 or 63/37 rosin-core. You'll find it works much better.
Not even!
That's just impure tin!
Just a tip for your next project, scrub the board with an abrasive pad, like a Scotch Brite sponge or something. It'll make it significantly easier to work with :)
You can also pre-tin the board - it can help. And get a solder pump to suck off any excess solder - the stuff costs money, and you can still tin wires and component leads in what the solder pump sucks off.
Ouch that looks really....cringworthy :)
Better luck next time!
Thanks for all the advice and support! I think I'll also get some bigger board and space it out a bit. Will be a few weeks until I'll have any spare change to get more components and replace certain things, gotta try and sell my Roland PC-300.
I really recommend a new soldering iron, with say, a 0,8mm tip. Really helped me hit the ground running with building on Vero.
Otherwise youll get solderbridges between tracks and its a nightmare to debug.
:icon_eek:
Doh! Sn, not Si...my bad. Still crap, but different kind of crap.
^ missed again, Si is silicon and silver is Ag ;)
LOL - I feel like such a spaz...guess that 20+ years since Chemistry classes is catching up to me...or Alzheimers....
Quote from: Zipslack on July 15, 2011, 10:48:00 AM
LOL - I feel like such a spaz...guess that 20+ years since Chemistry classes is catching up to me...or Alzheimers....
This should help:
http://www.ptable.com/
;D
makes one really appreciate the cleanliness of old Sola Sound vero boards, eh? :icon_mrgreen:
(http://generaledefoutre.files.wordpress.com/2011/04/sola_sound_tone_bender_pro_mk2_circuit_traces.jpg)
that's a larger pitch vero, though...
Is this larger pitch vero still available today?
JM
Yes, you can still get it:
http://www.verodirect.com/scp/Veroboard/products.asp?partno=01-0033
http://www.verodirect.com/scp/Veroboard/products.asp?partno=433-832
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/prototype-development-boards/0433832/
Pitch is 0.15'' (3.8mm)
A bit easier to work on, but you can't use it with ICs as easily as the regular stuff, of course.
Got some decent solder and a pack of tips, ordered replacements for all the bits I probably broke and starting anew. Going a bit more smoothly this time. Built the subcircuit with the LDRs without any problems at all. Thanks for all the advice.
I don't know if you do this or not, but if you take some fine steel wool and rub your copper traces until they shine, your solder will flow more freely onto the trace and around the component lead.
I notice that your solder is beading up in places, and this might be one reason why - dull, oxidized copper can resist solder in my experience (but not always).
:)
Quote from: Greenmachine on August 02, 2011, 11:28:00 PM
I don't know if you do this or not, but if you take some fine steel wool and rub your copper traces until they shine, your solder will flow more freely onto the trace and around the component lead.
I notice that your solder is beading up in places, and this might be one reason why - dull, oxidized copper can resist solder in my experience (but not always).
I never have that problem with resin core.
(http://imgur.com/Cv5m4.jpg)
Woooo! Thanks for all your help. I've been practicing a bit and found it helps a lot to have some kind of heatsink on what you're soldering and also to keep the iron as vertical as possible.
Note that the 555 is on leads; I think my iron's a touch hot and vaporised one of the leads on the socket somehow.
Now to package!