DIYstompboxes.com

I want to build a reverb pedal. I thought I'd start a thread that can act as a compendium of resources for interested parties.

Digital

• General Guitar Gadgets D-Verb: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/projects/25-reverb/243-digital-reverb (http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/projects/25-reverb/243-digital-reverb)
• BuildYourOwnClone Reverb: http://www.buildyourownclone.com/reverb.html (http://www.buildyourownclone.com/reverb.html)

Spring/Analog

• General Guitar Gadgets Stage Center Reverb by Craig Anderton: http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=43&Itemid=26 (http://www.generalguitargadgets.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=43&Itemid=26)
• Forest Cook Spring Reverb: http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/spring-reverb/ (http://gaussmarkov.net/wordpress/circuits/spring-reverb/)
• PAiA 6740K Hot Springs Reverb: http://www.paia.com/proddetail.asp?prod=6740K (http://www.paia.com/proddetail.asp?prod=6740K)
• Rod Elliot Spring Project 34 Spring Reverb: http://sound.westhost.com/project34.htm (http://sound.westhost.com/project34.htm)

Spring/Tube

• Fender 6G15 Tube Reverb: http://www.turretboards.com/layouts_schematics/fender/layouts/reverb_6G15.gif (http://www.turretboards.com/layouts_schematics/fender/layouts/reverb_6G15.gif)
• Ted Weber Classic 50s 5G15 Reverb Unit: https://taweber.powweb.com/store/kits_50a.htm#5G15 (https://taweber.powweb.com/store/kits_50a.htm#5G15)
• Ted Weber Add-a-Verb: https://taweber.powweb.com/store/kits_weber.htm#Add-A-Verb (https://taweber.powweb.com/store/kits_weber.htm#Add-A-Verb)
• Ted Weber 5H15 Re-Vibe/Tore-Vibe Units: https://taweber.powweb.com/store/kits_weber.htm#5H15 (https://taweber.powweb.com/store/kits_weber.htm#5H15)

A lot of great projects, right? The only problem is that I can't find any prefab PCBs or vero layouts. GGG doesn't carry their PCBs anymore (or at least they're not in stock) and the other projects don't offer that option. I've had some stupid experiences with making my own PCBs with Press n' Peel, so vero layouts would be the next best thing.

Anyone have any projects to add to the list or resources for boards/layouts?

Have the same problem :icon_mrgreen::http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93062.msg798611#msg798611

I am currently putting together a dual-PT2399 reverb that fits in a 1550b. I have the PCB made, just need to stuff it. I will post it when it's up and running; hopefully end of next week.

WOW!Looking forward to to see it sir! Thank you in advance! ;D ;D ;D ;D

Solid State

• Electronics Today International Solid State Reverb Unit: http://hammer.ampage.org/files/eti-mn3011reverb.pdf (http://hammer.ampage.org/files/eti-mn3011reverb.pdf)

Check this out:
http://www.sabrotone.com/wp-content/uploads/2010/04/Digital-Reverb.gif

Yes! Radical.

Digital

• TonePad Digital Reverb: http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=68 (http://www.tonepad.com/project.asp?id=68)

Spring

• Slinky Spring Reverb: http://www.electronicpeasant.com/projects/springs/springs.html (http://www.electronicpeasant.com/projects/springs/springs.html)
• Spring Thing Reverb: http://www.musicsynthesizer.com/DIY/Grant/Spring%20Thing/The%20Spring%20Thing.html (http://www.musicsynthesizer.com/DIY/Grant/Spring%20Thing/The%20Spring%20Thing.html)
• $2 Spring Reverb: http://thesquarewaveparade.com/2dlrsprng.html (http://thesquarewaveparade.com/2dlrsprng.html)
• Experimentalists Anonymous Reverb Circuits: http://experimentalistsanonymous.com/diy/index.php?dir=Schematics/Reverb (http://experimentalistsanonymous.com/diy/index.php?dir=Schematics/Reverb)

Plate

• $115 Plate Reverb: http://thesquarewaveparade.com/plate.html (http://thesquarewaveparade.com/plate.html)

I'd go for one of the two digital options, if thgis is for a stompbox. springs are really what people want for guitar, but they dont lend themself to easy implementation on the stagefloor. either you need to run long cables back and forth across the stage or you'll have to live with uncontrollable low end rumble and unpredictable noises. the digital option is more or less imune to being kicket around (to a certain extent) and much more forgiving of missplaced boots and stumbeling singers..
J
..and as allways, if your main audience is the housecat, you can completely disregard anything I say, different rules apply... ;D

making layouts is fun and good for you.
even when i find a good layout, i have to make my own. just to be sure!
:icon_twisted:

I've build a spring reverb with similar frequency response of '63 fender unit. If someone is intrested could check this topic for schematic:

http://www.fennecelectronics.it/smf/index.php?topic=8631.new#new

It's in italian but the scheme speak universal...

Here is my dual PT2399 reverb as promised. Has just one knob for mixing in the wet signal, and a switch for rhythm/lead, bright/dark, whatever you want to call it; it's a bass cut before the delay line. There is also a trim pot to adjust the delay of one of the PT2399s, so you can tweak the sound from bathroom to hall. It also has electronic switching with tails. I literally just soldered this together, so no sound clips yet. Sounds nice to my ears though!
Schem and PCB:
http://s81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/

(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/CIMG6675.jpg)

Awesome merlin! Is the trim pot something others may want to mount externally, or is it a "set and forget" adjustment?

Quote from: theundeadelvis on September 05, 2011, 12:14:32 PM
Awesome merlin! Is the trim pot something others may want to mount externally, or is it a "set and forget" adjustment?

Set and forget, really. I have it set on 17.5k, and its unlikely to move- most of the other sounds aren't that useful (bathroom?!)
I just ordered some enclosures from Gapco, so once it's in a box I'll make a recording.

I'm interested to know what a LC ladder reverb sounds like, in the simulator it looks quite springy and I've designed a reverb with feedback/adjustable ladder length/etc. around it but can't build it right now.  Ideally would be between analogue and digital in that there's no ADC/DACing no sampling but also no springs, but I just don't know.

brilliant work merlin...ive always wanted a foot controlled proper reverb...can't wait to hear this...especially the hall!!!...... :icon_cool: :icon_cool: :icon_cool:

thanks for sharing . :icon_cool:

Ok switch to plan B. The enclosures from Gapco turned out to be a lot smaller than I expected (external dimensions, what bloody use are they?!)
Anyway, here's a quick clip. Starts with max reverb and the bass-cut off. Then I reduce the reverb and put the bass cut on for the second half of the clip, and increase the reverb again. You can hear hiss at max reverb setting.

w w w.freewebs.com/valvewizard2/Equinox.mp3

(remove the spaces from www)

Merlin, that sounds great! Thanks for all of the cool projects!

Rob

WOW! :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: ;D ;D ;DThank you sir for making this one roar! Can't wait to build it!

Merlin, this is so good that it deserves it's own thread rather than be buried in this thread.

+1... cool.

That sounds great Merlin.

Quote from: frequencycentral on September 08, 2011, 01:01:50 PM
Merlin, this is so good that it deserves it's own thread rather than be buried in this thread.

Thanks Rick! It will get one when it's in a box of its very own!

Hello,
Kindly check my work regarding the wiring and all. It seems that there is no power when I switch it on. I used the spdt footswitch on my wah. I already checked for some solder bridges et. al. I used the round dc jack(hope i get it right-offboard wiring ala tonepad) :icon_redface:. Here are some of the pics:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/Reverb/IMG_6628.jpg
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/Reverb/IMG_6626.jpg
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/Reverb/IMG_6623.jpg
Something wrong on my wiring? I also use the NE5532 instead of TL072-is it ok? And yes the 10ufNP is too big. Any difference regarding the polarized ones? Thanks in advance!

Quote from: sugonidamaso on September 20, 2011, 04:03:23 AM
I used the round dc jack(hope i get it right-offboard wiring ala tonepad) :icon_redface:.

You don't need the green wire going to your DC jack, you can remove it. Brown wire should go to the biggest tab on the jack; blue wire should go to the tab furthest from the big tab (can't tell if you've done this from your photos). This is assuming you are using a centre-negative power pack.

Have you measured any voltages anywhere? (It is always a good idea to check for power before installing any ICs)

What are the brown wires I can see dangling off your audio jacks? I don't think you need those...

QuoteI also use the NE5532 instead of TL072-is it ok?

That's OK

Quote
And yes the 10ufNP is too big. Any difference regarding the polarized ones? Thanks in advance!

The two 10uF non-polar caps can be any value down to about 1uF, so if you can find anything smaller in that range then go for it (plastic/cermaic/electrolytic all are fine). Polarised caps should not be used, however.

QuoteI already checked for some solder bridges et. al.

It is a little messy, so keep checking! :)

Thank you for your reply. I will check on my power supply. Sorry,I have a limited knowledge in electronics(beginner-I rely more on layout-majority of my builds are :icon_redface:) Where do I measure? What setting on my DMM? Brown ones are those from the sleeve of both jacks(sorry I have no baypass sound either-must check! :icon_mrgreen:). What's your recommended value regarding the non-polarized ones? :icon_redface: Must/Will check again. :icon_redface:Thank you!

Quote from: sugonidamaso on September 20, 2011, 05:58:55 AM
Sorry I have a limited knowledge when it comes to this one(beginner). Where do I measure?(I rely more on picture layout(majority of my build) :icon_redface:)

You don't need to know the circuit inside-out to do this! Just check the data sheet for the chip you're looking at, and then measure between the +ve and -ve pins on the IC socket. For example, check that you get 9V (actually about 8.4V) when measuring between:
Dual Opamp: Pin 8 and 4

And check that you get 5V between:
PT2399: Pin 1 and 3

(General tip: Lots of ICs use diagonal-opposite pins for power, so that's a good place to start even if you know nothing about the chip in front you).

Quote
Thank you for this one! What would be your recommended value please?

Anything, it really doesn't matter. Any values from 1uF upwards will pass all audio frequencies. I only used 10uF because I had a bunch. Just go to RadioShack or whatever, and find a few small-size caps that are non-polar.

Hi. I manage to measure both PT2399 Pin 1&3 by 4.97v. I got 0.1mv to 0 on opamp. I also changed it to tl072 (from my newly built echobase) same reading.

Quote from: sugonidamaso on September 20, 2011, 07:19:17 AM
I got 0.1mv to 0 on opamp.

Well there's a clue. In your photo:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/Reverb/IMG_6626.jpg
The trace running down the very edge of the right side of the board (which carries the 9V supply) looks like it may be broken- check for continuity?

Yes I did check for continuity post etch. Is the ground/outside border be connected to each other?
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/reverbpcb.jpg
I mean on the left side.

Here's mine:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/ee389/sugonidamaso/Reverb/IMG_6626-1.jpg

Thanks!

After looking at your etch I think I may see a problem...

One the right side of your board (in the picture), follow the run right next to the second "m" of 77mm going down.

The point where the trace appears like it did not transfer completely...... is it touching that solder point? According to the transfer, it SHOULD NOT.

Good Luck  ;D

EDIT: Also, it looks like that same trace is making contact above the "77mm" spot wright where it bends over the edge of the 16-pin DIP.

Yes I did see that. There's a bypass signal/tone now. After I remove the ground connected on my spdt footswitch. It also appears that the opamp measured 9.14v. I'll look for something else.

Quote from: sugonidamaso on September 20, 2011, 08:53:23 AM
Yes I did check for continuity post etch.

I highlighted the 8.4V feed on your PCB. I circled the problem area in yellow (this is the bot Lacky was talking about too). If you have the correct 5V supply to the PT2399, then there MUST be voltage on the first part of this trace. But if its not getting down to the opamp then there MUST be a break in the trace. Are you CERTAIN that measuring between pins 4 and 8 gives you no voltage? Are you sure there is continuity between pin 4 and the ground plane (circled in green)?
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/IMG_6626.jpg)

QuoteIs the ground/outside border be connected to each other?
http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/Equinox%20Reverb/reverbpcb.jpg
I mean on the left side.

No you don't need a connection there. If you follow the ground plane round the other side of the board you will see that those two points are still connected together 'the long way round'.

EDIT: I was typing when you replied.

Quote
After I remove the ground connected on my spdt footswitch.

Huh? Which ground?
Did you use a BC337 as in the schem, or did you sub a different transistor? (Which may have had a different pin out).

Oh yeah, you are plugging into the INPUT jack right? Easy to get mixed up when you're turning the board over and over!  ;)

Quote from: merlinb on September 20, 2011, 09:22:05 AM
(http://i81.photobucket.com/albums/j207/merlinblencowe/IMG_6626.jpg)

Also check the area directly below and a bit to the right of where Merlin marked the photo with the "V' in 8.4V. That bend looks like it is making contact with the adjacent solder point.

You may want to go over the ENITE board and ensure there are no bridges due to a semi-good etch  :-\

OK, you say you have a bypass signal, which is a start. Here's something to try:

It looks like your main pot is wired backwards (so counterclockwise is maximum reverb). You can fix that later. For now, turn it fully CCW and then get a bit of wire or a small screwdriver or something, and use it to touch pin 16 on a PT2399 (try both). Make sure your skin is touching the wire as you do this. If the signal path is OK you should hear a reverberating pop in the speaker. Report with findings!

Also, I am looking at that footswitch and wondering if its wired correctly. OTOH, no matter how you wire it, you should get either the bypass OR effected sound in one position.

IT'S WORKING! It is the SWITCH(the foot switch from my wah-crybaby spdt)! ;D How will I wire it? When I try to switch it off the whole effect shuts down-no bypass signal. Yes, the pot is the other way around.

Quote from: sugonidamaso on September 20, 2011, 10:25:29 AM
How will I wire it? When I try to switch it off the whole effect shuts down-no bypass signal.

The blue wire needs to go to the moving armature inside the switch (the pole), so that it gets connected to one of the green wires, depending on the way the switch is set.

You'll have to figure out which tab on the switch is the pole. Suggest you desolder it and use a continuity tester to figure it out (with a bit of common sense! 8) )

Quote from: merlinb on September 20, 2011, 10:31:35 AM

Quote from: sugonidamaso on September 20, 2011, 10:25:29 AM
How will I wire it? When I try to switch it off the whole effect shuts down-no bypass signal.

The blue wire needs to go to the moving armature inside the switch (the pole), so that it gets connected to one of the green wires, depending on the way the switch is set.

You'll have to figure out which tab on the switch is the pole. Suggest you desolder it and use a continuity tester to figure it out (with a bit of common sense! 8) )

I don't have that one either ;) Thank you dear sirs for your patience and understanding! You're great teachers! :icon_mrgreen:

Quote from: sugonidamaso on September 20, 2011, 11:05:08 AM
I don't have that one either ;) Thank you dear sirs for your patience and understanding! You're great teachers! :icon_mrgreen:

Is it going yet? You're the only other person who has built it, so I'm keen to see it succeed...

Ooops! Based from my last post-YES! Thank you so much! My etching suck! I just used the glossy page of a magazine :icon_mrgreen:, the one you pointed out (trace problem) was the one I trace it with a marking pen. :icon_redface: I ran out of PNP. So costly in here. To sum it up-thank you sir for making this one. I really needed it. Here's the link:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=93062.msg798611#msg798611

now what do you suggest for a FENDER ACCUTRONICS REVERB TANK?

Guys, I made the BYOC reverb, that uses the Belton "brick" reverb chip. Nice verb, with tone control (useful, I mostly use it in a dark setting), Mix and Dwell (sort of a decay control, not much variation on this control). Of course it´s an emulation of a spring verb, so boingy and bouncy. not smooth stuff. But fills the intended role nicely. I made a PCB for it, will post it later so that anyone can make it.

Did you get anywhere with that pcb? I am very interested!

Here's my take on the Belton brick. It's pretty standard. I'm indebted to FRW for basically taking his Box of Hall jpg and editing it.

(http://i47.photobucket.com/albums/f175/hobkesh/Ukuverb.jpg)

The circuit itself is based very closely on the datasheet and FRW's schematic and came about through fiddling on a breadboard, and some calculations for the final differential amplifier.

Op amps are JRC4558s, simply because I have many of them to use up.

The fairly oversized cap C5 after the regulator is to keep the 5V going while the 9V dies, so you don't get digital power down noises when it's switched off.

Some of the resistors are somewhat arbitrary, I just had them laying around, but the ones determining gain I worked at, as I felt the wet signal wasn't loud enough on full reverb setting. Totally dry is close to unity gain according to the maths and my ears.

The components to play with are the following.

The 78L05 gets a bit warm, but has survived very long on times near a hot radiator. I think there's a bit of variation in how much Belton Bricks draw. Mine was 55mA. You could use a LDO regulator for batteries, but I feel a 9V battery approaching the 78L05's Vin threshold is dead anyway. I managed to get pretty good battery life out of it, by pretty good I mean more than the length of a gig and sound check. C4 is three times what's required. I just needed a 2.5mm pitch cap there, so went for an electrolytic I had.

Input cap C7 is fairly high. You could probably drop it to 47n. I needed 7.5 pitch on my vero and had a 220n green cap that fitted.

I worked at the shelving cap C8 and resistor R7 by ear, not wanting the reverb too boomy, but not without power either. In the end it hardly does anything except maybe prevent very low loud notes from clipping the reverb unit. Maybe, like with C7, it's the bass player in me. Most circuits I've seen have C8 much smaller and R7 higher or not there at all. Ideally R8 should come before C8 and R7, but again vero won over electronics.

C9 was a pain to get right, and I'd like to work more at a tone control. I say tone, but it only controls the wet signal. It's basically shimmer to dark control. I'm making this for a multi instrumentalist whose main instrument is ukulele so it's a bit high, and I think it sounds better with a 150n in there for guitar, and 220n for bass. Either way it's a bit too subtle, but still useful. I tried a few other tone controls but they just sounded bad.

I do think the Belton brick sounds fantastic, particularly with a clean single coil guitar.

I made a Box of Hall Reverb

http://tagboardeffects.blogspot.co.uk/2012/04/box-of-hall-reverb-culturejam.html

with the mods suggested by Heavenwithin on that page.

Works a treat - allowed me to sell my Holy Grail nano.

Here it is ->

(http://i.imgur.com/5PtlT.jpg)

^ demo?.. :)

Niceliy done! That thing looks sweet!

Quote from: Morocotopo on May 04, 2012, 02:08:53 PM
Guys, I made the BYOC reverb, that uses the Belton "brick" reverb chip. Nice verb, with tone control (useful, I mostly use it in a dark setting), Mix and Dwell (sort of a decay control, not much variation on this control). Of course it´s an emulation of a spring verb, so boingy and bouncy. not smooth stuff. But fills the intended role nicely. I made a PCB for it, will post it later so that anyone can make it.

+1 for PCB thanks

Quote from: deadastronaut on November 21, 2012, 10:22:21 AM
^ demo?.. :)

http://soundcloud.com/scuzzphut/berb

Quick one - my new homebrew tele -> ross compressor clone -> box of hall verb ->Blackstar Ht-5 ->emulated out into sound card.

nice one mark: 

sounds great!!!...cheers. 8)

Quote from: Kesh on November 21, 2012, 08:39:19 AM
I'm indebted to FRW for basically taking his Box of Hall jpg and editing it.

You're welcome!  ;D

anyone made a pcb (not vero)  version for the BTDR-2H  brick...1590b size?


i just ordered the BTDR=2H.

which schematic to use too?....the one above?..

ive seen a few,  i wanted a wet/dry mix, level ,and tone too...

hmmmm just read a few mods by 'heaven within''

(Many were complaining this to sound dark. Do the following mods

1)for the 470Pf use 100pf

2)for 4n7 use 1n

3)for 33n of the damp capacitor, use 22n

4)for 33k to the left of 4n7 use 10k)

guess i'll  have to do a 1590b layout...hmmmmm....think i'll have to breadboard it... ::)

edit:

found this schemo....

(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/box_of_hall_schematic_v1-1.png)

Rob - the one I made (sound clip above) incorporates all of those mods. They are a great improvement.

cheers mark ^ as above then. (i added the mods, just weren't sure which 33k to 10k..

look ok?..

whats the 'dwell' mod...as in byoc v2 reverb?..armndry (larry) said its for room size?

One of Webster's dictionary definitions of dwell is:

Definition of DWELL 1: to remain for a time

When you walk in a small empty room and clap your hands, you'll get a short tight reverb. When you clap your hands in a larger room you get a larger, deeper, decay. The reverberation hangs around for a while before decaying to an inaudible state.

Hence the use of the word Dwell!

I remember the name dwell being used for reverb controls on some older amps from my youth. In modern times much fancier names are used for the same control.

cheers larry,   so the damp on this the same as a 'tone'...and just has overall reverb 'mix' then..

so the schematic above has no dwell.. as in the byoc v2 schematic...

could that be added to the above schemo?

Hey Rob,

It looks like you can add the same components as in the BYOC version in between IC1D pin 14 and IC1B pin 7.

All this is doing is adding standard "feedback" to the circuit. More feedback, thicker deeper effect!

nice one larry, i just knocked up a 1590b layout for the above, i'll see if i can squeeze that onto it too..

8)

i'll post a pic up of it, if i can get it done.... ;)


you mean like this?
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/DWELLMOD1.jpg)

Quote from: deadastronaut on December 23, 2012, 01:51:17 PM
so the damp on this the same as a 'tone'

Judging by the name of the control "Damp", and looking at the circuit, I don't think that control act like a tone control. To "dampen" means to deaden. It looks like the pot is a "mix" between output 1 and output 2 of the brick.

I looked around quite a bit and listened to many of the sound samples available before I made my decision on the BYOC version. The tone control is an actual tone stack and provides a very usable variation between bass and treble. (Nothing too bassy or trebly)
The sounds that one can get out of this reverb vary from a pretty realistic reverb to an almost rockabilly slap back with the Dwell and Reverb controls cranked.

 i mean between 7-14. ;)..

well i managed to squeeze that dwell mod on, and theres room to tweak that tone too...

i'm getting confused with power ground, and signal ground though...hmmmm..i'll have a bit more of a tweak.

(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/reverb1.jpg)

Here's quick and dirty revision of the Box of Hall schematic with the dwell components added in.

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/Box+Of+Hall+with+Dwell_001.jpg.html

I just threw the extra parts in the existing circuit with paint.

180k/ 100n's?...is this for more/better feedback?

I used the values of the BYOC dwell.
Hold the phone on the Dwell mod for a bit......I was bouncing back and forth looking at the drawings. I printed them both and can give a better interpretation of what's going on. To quote a famous movie line....."I'll be back!"

ok.. ;D

Okay I got it. Let me revise the drawing.

I corrected the drawing in reply #61.

Parts of the original Box of Hall drawing are drawn kind of upside down from the BYOC drawing which I consider to be the "norm"

By the way, the 180K "feedback resistor" can be sized to your liking. It controls the max amount of feedback when the Dwell control is cranked. If the resistance isn't large enough the effect with self oscillate. You may want that effect on 10. I don't know. ???

You generally adjust that resistor to where it's just shy of self oscillation when the Dwell control is maxed.

pin 9 - 14 then, gotcha... :)


i'll have a tweak again...cheers larry. 8)

(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/dwellverb1.jpg)

like this...


i'm still concerned about p -ground, and signal ground... ???

I'll take a look at what I did with the two grounds in my layout.

Okay,

Connect the digital ground to the analog ground without any interuption (connecting it to any other components) at the analog ground source. A good place would be the cap after the voltage regulator. Where C3 is grounded.

Hey Rob,

Looking at your layout, if you moved the 22nf cap down a bit and brought the incoming ground feed in on the grounded side of that cap, I think that would work fine. You'll have a direct path to analog and digital grounds from the source.

the 22nf coming from the damp pot?...

Yes sir!

Hey,

Can you do ground planes (pours) in DILC?

you can, using wide traces as bits n bobs to make it up....bit of a bodge, but yeah...sort of ;D


so move that 22nf down, and connect the ground to it.....sorry i'm confused,  so would i remove that jumper under the middle 100uf too?

I'll take your layout and do a real ulgy mock up in paint. Be right back.

cool, cheers man, your a star!!!.

Here it is...as ugly as can be! but you'll get the point.

http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/dwellverb1.jpg.html

You'll see there's a fairly direct path to the IC ground and to the Reverb brick grounds. I would star ground the incoming ground off board.

cheers...like this.  (the bottom rail is ground too..)

(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/reverbdone1.jpg)

Yeah, you got it!

pins 4 and 2 on the brick are still the same ground though aren't they?.....(still confused) ;D..via that jumper under the 100uf.

The signal and power ground are connected internally inside the brick so it's a bit redundent to run separate grounds. I think you have a pretty good ground path going.

FYI, the BYOC reverb doesn't separate the grounds. I've noticed no ill effects (only good effects!) in my build.

In fact, when you combine your reverb with a delay unit....you will never want to play through a delay unit without the reverb again!

It just sounds so much cooler!

ahhhhhh of course, internal.  (sound of penny dropping)  .... :P

yeah i love delays, and verb, i usually use verb on my mixer, but it'll be nice to have control properly....can't wait to try it out.

does the mix go to full wet only?..i'd like that for nice spacey ambient stuff.


anyone rigged up 2 of these?...

yipee i got my brick today....can't wait to get this on breadboard at last...and try those mods... 8)

unfortunately i have to repair my cars electric window today as its stuck in the down position...typical,  ::), arghhhhh in the freezing cold.....bummer... :-\

back later... ;)

right, cars sorted, at last... i'm going to bread this up tonight and get it going..hopefully. :)

using the modded by armndry (larry) schemo..i'm going in....i may be some time... ;)

(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/Box%20Of%20Hall%20with%20Dwell_001.jpg)

well it works on breadboard  , first time...great...well over unity, but i'll stick a resistor on the output to bring it down to unity level...

adds a nice tone to the guitar too....

the reverb knob is fine..dry to full on reverb.   tick. 8)

the damp works fine too, from dark to bright  tick. 8)  ( i'll mess with the cap on that to get it fatter to thin...)

the dwell however...hmmm... not doing much really...

heres a clip of it as it is in the schemo, before a unity adjustment ok..



first is bypassed, then on/dry, then turning up reverb.....then tweakng the 'damp'.....then the dwell...(which does nothing really to my ears)

https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/reverbtest1.mp3


edit:  ok had a had a tinker,  think i'm going to make C7 switchable, for dark/bright. 10n/100n-220n...really nice and subtle to bright...will be great on my acoustic too. 8)

probably lose the dwell, and swap that pot for an overall volume instead...better control etc...

demo...

Hey Rob,

Try lowering the 180K down to a 10K.

The circuit I pulled the Dwell from has an amplifier as a first stage and the schematic that you're working with has a buffer in front.

With that 180K the feedback signal is most likely not getting back to the input.

See if that helps

hi larry, cheers man, i'll give that a go now... :icon_cool:

whooohoooo...bloody hell...mass feedback /controlled oscillation... :icon_eek: great!!!!!...

excellent...nce one larry.

thats amazing for a 2.8 second brick.....really streches it out. 8)

Great!
Now adjust that resistor to what you want it to sound like and do.

I just used 10K because it's a nice round number and it's the go to resistor! Just throw a 10K in there!  ;D

Quote from: deadastronaut on January 13, 2013, 06:00:35 PM
thats amazing for a 2.8 second brick.....really streches it out. 8)

Yeah, that's why it's called dwell.....like when you clap your hands in a large empty room the sound "dwells" around a bit longer than in a smaller crowded room.

yeah thats the nuts, sounds lovely on vol swells....uber cool.

just tried it with delay...awesome.

those that like noise machines would find that mod cool too...the way it breaks up and lingers etc......

simply cool.  8) 8) 8) cheers man.

ok had a tweak, 33k seems to be best before it goes into massive feedback...just right.   ;)

cheers larry, got your pm, with updated schemo, cheers.  having grief with my internet at the mo... :icon_rolleyes:

sorted:

schematic above updated.  8)


edit:  one thing i have noticed is that the tone is a fair bit brighter on the reverb compared to bypassed, which is nice, but i wil be using this with my other pedals , distortion/chorus/ delay so i'd like to retain

a bit more bypassed tone if possible....hmmmm...

more tweaking...but brlliant so far... 8).....might have to just throw a 10k in there...everywhere... ;D

ok had a bit more of a tinker to get 'tone' unity as well as volume....pretty much bang on now.....

so basically i stuck a low pass filter on the end, i used a 47n and 22n as i didn't have a 68n in my bits... :icon_rolleyes: of course this could be switchable for a bright/warm setting too...i'm really pleased how this has turned out...

its much more in line with bypass signal, when reverb is at minimum its hard to tell the difference....GREAT STUFF...this is exactly why i breadboard everything. i ALWAYS find i need to tweak those unity issues, whether tone/vol

special thanks to larry too...cheers man.  ;)

now to re-arange the pcb layout. ;)


(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/Box%20Of%20Hall%20with%20Dwell_003.jpg)


i'll post the layout and scheme in another thread when done, seeing as i hijacked this one ok... :P

ok, ive built this on pcb. i tweaked the feedback to be more useful,  i swapped the damp 22n for a 100n .

and reverb pot is 22k (uk version of the 25k). and i also added a switch to switch from normal (68n) and bright...(which this is without the 68n )  

i used 47n+22n as i didn't have a 68n. ::)

anyway its working fine, but...i have a noise problem on the volume control. (which i added to compensate for the difference between bright/normal)

the noise (high pitched fast oscillation maybe)...when vol is off or full on....any ideas?.

schematic as i have it now.
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/reverbschemo.jpg)

my layout (built)
(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/newestverb.jpg)


could it be a power ground  - signal ground problem?......HELP! :)

can it be you are unbalancing the bricks output with C7? try to put that cap + pot after the joint of the two resistors from pin 5 and 6

hmmm maybe, it was fine on breadboard though, ..famous last words eh.. ::)

cheers.

Hey Rob,

I see a couple of things that look a bit "odd".

The 1M pulldown in parallel with the 100K "volume" control will cause the output impedance to change with the movement of the volume pot. Try putting a 470R resistor between the volume wiper and the output. Install the 1M pulldown between the 470R and the output.

The location of the bright/warm switch look a little suspect to me as well.

Try putting a 2.7K between the 68n paralleled capacitors and ground.

hi larry, cheers man ,good to have another set of eyes on it...

ahhh yep i see the switch problem...i'll try those alterations later. cheers man. 8)

I was thinking you might want to try the tone switch in another location.

At the point where R8 and C8 join. That way you are just changing the tone of the reverb not the dry signal.

hmmm guess i'll have to pull it apart and  re-breadboard it ..does this look better?

(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/reverb2.jpg)

Sent an email with modified schematic.

righto, back on it, i have it on breadboard again.... ::)

this time i have:

input 22k, and a 4.7n to ground then the rest as the most recent schematic (larry) (armndry) sent me..cheers.

its a much better 'tonal' match now ..it was way too bright otherwise, way off unity etc..

i got rid of the 1M pulldown on the end too, (no popping when on/off) so thats ok.

i used the 100k vol pot on the very end and lost the 470r, i used a 2.2k on the bright/warm caps and that seems fine.

i have no noise issues at all now. even when maxed .

(https://dl.dropbox.com/u/7464107/reverb3.jpg)

i'll knock up another pcb layout and then we'll see if  it behaves ... :)

ok, i still have this on breadboard...everything is fine, apart from a loud 'pop' when switching between bright/warm...which is a bummer.

ive tried a resistor to ground on both sides of the switch etc to no avail.....hmmm.... ???..i'm using the middle and one side of an spdt for the swtch

Maybe use a potentiometer for a tone control instead of the switch?

cheers matthew,

good idea, but i'd like to keep this as a 4 pot jobby, i'm trying to squeeze it into a 1590B.

Try moving the switch to be between R15 and ground, and with a higher value (eg 1M) resistor across the switch contacts. Might work....

cheers adam, just tried it...still pops, it loses the tone change with a 1M anyway...needs to be 2.2k -ish....hmmmm...

no you misunderstood me - keep R15 at 2.2k, move the switch to be between R15 & ground. Now, add an additional ~1M resistor across the switch contacts so that when its open, R15 is now in series with 1M, and when the switch is closed, R15 is in series with nothing.

The popping is due to the capacitors charging/discharging when you ground/float them. The ~1M across the switch could (possibly) maintain enough charge in the caps (when the switch is open) to reduce popping to an acceptable level.

@adam: ahh ok, i'll try that...


thread moved to...

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=101126.new#new

edit: tried it, yeah that works when not playing through it. it only pops when signal is going through it , but i'm fine with that. cheers.

i'll try other suggestions too before i knock up a layout though.