has anyone actually built one of these?
(http://experimentalistsanonymous.com/diy/Schematics/Chorus/Electro%20Harmonix%20Clone%20Theory%20MN3007.jpg)
i've been thinking about building one of these for quite a while, i REALLY regret selling my original one...
i can get the chips locally for about 10 bux, i'm assuming the sad1024 is hard to find and/or very pricey.
little help would be appreciated, thanks!!
peace
jimi
I haven't, but it isn't terribly different from a 3007-based Small Clone with mods.
The Small Clone will run off a 9v battery. The Clone Theory wants a 15vdc supply, and uses a transformer to do that, but there isn't anything particularly different about the LFO, clocking circuit or audio path that would demand enough current that a transformer is a must. It may be sufficient to run it off a 9v, or perhaps a pair of 9v batteries feeding a 12v regulator to provide a stable bias voltage.
thanks mark.
the clone theory sounds a bit different than the small clone...the big thing is i hate to invest a bunch of cash i can't afford (there's that GAS again...ahem!!) into something that may not work out.
but i appreciate the response! i found a verified version on vero in the gallery, will probably run it off a charge pump so i can run it off my pedalboard's power supply.
working up a BOM now to see if i can afford the parts from mouser...i traded my original in at daddy's junky years ago to help a neighbor get her kid his first guitar, figuring i'd pick it up the next day when i got paid...
but it was gone literally seconds after hitting the listing in their database. live and learn.
i THINK at this point i am up for it...the mn3007 is the original version, so hopefully will all work out.
hey, if i don't cross paths with ya before then, happy holidays my friend!!
peace
And same to you! :icon_biggrin:
thanks man...
just finishing a mouser order...dear god, the humanity....
WAYYYYYYYY too many parts!! :icon_mrgreen:
and of course, an mn3007?
FUHGEDDABOUTIT!!
gotta go with an nte "replacement"....nte1641, let's hope the pinouts match!! lol
Not to worry. They do. I believe I used one on the CE-2 clone I "accidentally" sold for $5 (long story, involving a mistaken confusion between two charity auctions).
ahhhh....cool!!
but...i said screw it, and bought a 12 pack on ebay for less than the nte would have cost me!
;)
ordered all my parts...with a bit of luck, i should have everything here in the next week or so so i can start building it! ;)
Hello Jim,
I've just finished a clone of Clone Theory using the layout of Paul Nelson (thank you a lot Paul for all your projects!): http://sites.google.com/site/electroconducive/ehxclonetheory (http://sites.google.com/site/electroconducive/ehxclonetheory).
It sounds amazing and I like it a lot. I didn't try any of the suggested mods by Paul because it's not clear for me which are tested.
I tweaked the trimpots by ear, but I am curious if there is a more scientific method to do that :)
Best regards,
Radu
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/cathexis/Veroboard+Layouts/Clone+Theory/ (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/cathexis/Veroboard+Layouts/Clone+Theory/)
I built it with a 3007, sounds gorgeous...
thanks guys for the headsup...cathexis, i'm using your vero layout, so that's great to hear!!!
was my favorite box, the first one i ever bought myself....nust have been 77 or 78 or so.
i'll be implementing some tweaks probably, radu, maybe pauls, maybe my own.
there was one peculiar setting on it, where if ya got it JUST RIGHT on the flange/vibe-chor/vibe switch in the middle, it sounded completely different...i used to think it had both effects on, but now i suspect it actually kills them.
whatever, i can't wait to build this thing!!!
thanks guys!
Good luck Jim!
THANKS BRO!!
hey guys,
i re-did cathexis's vero layout...no changes really, tho a couple of part numbers may be off, i included a bom with the components as relevant to my layout. i was having a real problem trying to see Cathexis's original layout, cuz my eyes are buggy..i mean absolutely no disrespect by re-rendering it here!! :icon_mrgreen:
parts are ordered, be starting on it soon
to make it as easy as possible for such a component-heavy project, i made 3 boards....one from the strip side showing all the cuts:
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/stripsidecuts.gif)
one the same, but as seen THRU the board (from the component side)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/COMPSIDEcuts.gif)
and finally, the actual layout, which i've checked over and over til my eyes melted...
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/CLONETHEORYPROJ1A.gif)
i believe these are all good, someone with a better set of eyes would be welcome to check!!!!!! for sure!!!
but i think it's right...towards the right of the board in particular, the nomenclature of the parts order may be slightly different from c's, but
all the parts and their locations should be good.
finally, a BOM of the whole thing:
Project: clone theory components
C1: 1uF
C2: 470uF
C3: 3.3nF
C4: .022uF
C5: .27uF
C6: 1uF
C7: 0.1uF
C8: .022pF
C9: .22uF
C10: 0.1uF
C11: 27pF
C12: .022uF
C13: 0.1uF
C14: 1uF
C15: .22uF
C16: 680pF
C17: 680pF
C18: 680pF
C19: 0.15uF
C20: 680pF
C21: 1uF
C22: 2.2nF
C23: 1uF
C24: 1uF
C25: 4.7uF
C26: 1uF
C27: 1uF
C28: 0.15uF
C29: .1uF
C30: 620pF
C31: .1uF
C32: 4.7uF
C33: 4.7uF
10k lin CH/VIB
100k lin DEPTH
1m reverse log RATE
D1: 1n4001
IC1: dual opamp
IC2: dual opamp
IC3: dual opamp
IC4: mn3007
IC5: CD4047
Q1: lm785
Q2: 2n4302/2n5458
TR1: 100K
TR2: 100K
TR3: 100K
R1: 82K
R2: 82K
R3: 12K
R4: 12K
R5: 51K
R6: 200K
R7: 68K
R8: 1M
R9: 100K
R10: 300K
R11: 100K
R12: 200K
R13: 10K
R14: 390K
R15: 300K
R16: 100K
R17: 6.8K
R18: 100K
R19: 100kR
R20: 100K
R21: 120K
R22: 2.4K
R23: 51K
R24: 150K
R25: 330R
R26: 51K
R27: 2.4 (2.2)K
R28: 51K
R29: 62K
R30: 330K
R31: 22K
R32: 150K
R33: 150K
R34: 100K
R35: 1M
R36: 100K
R37: 1.1K
R38: 330R
R39: 1.1K
R40: 2.2M
R41: 200K
R42: 1M
again, will be building this as soon as the stuff arrives, and if anyone wants to take the plunge with me, i hope you find this useful.
thanks to topopiccione, cathexis, amd everyone else involved...
blessings! :icon_mrgreen:
found a mistake...no trace cut at strip w hole 3...my bad, will update the pics as soon as possible..
board done and populated...just waiting for the bbd chip to come in...this is one heck of a densely popped board...man...alot of soldering...
also found one other mistake on my vero SO DON'T BUILD FROM MINE YET...USE CATHEXIS'S!!!
pics to come later today if i get a chance.
hoping it all works when i finally button it up...this is the most complex build i've tried yet i think.
stay tuned! ;)
Good job on the layout! I started drawing mine by hand just because the layout program got really slow with big layouts, and because I could do them away from a computer. I never tried anything that big in the layout program - looks great!
thanks bro, it's YOUR layout, i just copied it. there is a mistake or two on it tho, i have to upload corrected versions as soon as i get a chance.
i'm waiting on one 10k pot, and the mn3007....and then it's time to fire it up!!
i can't wait.
did you use a charge pump on yours, or do you use a 15v transformer?
i bought a wall wart for it, hoping that'll do the trick. i'll post a couple pics of it so far in a minute.
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/408139_2712445823256_1620235552_249.jpg)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/399783_2713572211415_1620235552_249.jpg)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/382636_2714287109287_1620235552_249.jpg)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/408688_2714843843205_1620235552_249.jpg)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/378952_2715014047460_1620235552_249.jpg)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/385985_2717151340891_1620235552_249.jpg)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/377961_2717159941106_1620235552_249.jpg)
Quote from: pinkjimiphoton on December 29, 2011, 09:44:43 PM
did you use a charge pump on yours, or do you use a 15v transformer?
I used an 18v transformer with a 15v regulator on board, that worked nicely. I did the same thing on my ADA flanger - which I think you should build as well, since you seem to be man enough to take on monster vero layouts :) :) That one is my all time favourite modulation pedal, it does pretty much everything and it does it beautifully. Check out the layout and some soundclips in my gallery...
LARS
lol...man enough? it took me ten years to get the baalz up to tackle this!!
thanks for the transformer info...seems i should be ok with the 15v one i ordered then hopefully...be a laugh if i had to step it up!
have a great new years lars, thanks for YOU being man enough to tackle this project...and showing the way! :thu:
hi guys, getting close to ready to wire it up....just barely fit it in a 1590bb!!!
gonna millenium bypass it in stereo, think this will fly as a wiring for the switch?
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/MILBY3PDT4STEREO.gif)
here's a couple pics of the progress...
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/166921_2803749665795_1620235552_253.jpg)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/393324_2803747185733_1620235552_253.jpg)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/406564_2803744545667_1620235552_253.jpg)
still gotta drill it for the dpdt chor flange/vib flange switch (right between the two output jacks i think)
and i THINK i can fit the bypass daughter board in just to the right of the 3pdt...
man....toughest pedal i've tried yet...scared!!! lol
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/404189_2803985671695_1620235552_253.jpg)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/396306_2803982351612_1620235552_253.jpg)
Congratulations Jimi! Very nice work!!!
How do you set the trimpots? Have you tried any mods?
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/400514_2804636167957_1620235552_253.jpg)
thanks bro...
here it is all wired up (except for the led/millenium bypass part, gotta go hit radio shack for a couple parts)...haven't fired it up yet, gonna do that a little later after my girl wakes up.
i am hopeful it's gonna work...sometimes my builds do, sometimes they don't. this one, i put a lot of time into figuring out how to fit it all in the box, quapdruple checked everything as i went, so with a little luck, i'll have something good to report on later today...thanks for the help and encouragement!
the only mod i did was the "stereo" one, but the original was stereo...not sure if this is the same, or a re-working of a small clone, but can't wait to have at it!!!! ;)
it's alive, It's Alive, IT'S ALIVE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/393367_2808865793695_1620235552_253.jpg)
had to do a little debugging, i had forgotten to solder one ic pin and had an almost microscopic bridge between two rails.
but it's alive, sounds absolutely just like i remember my original sounding, but with less noise.
i couldn't find a reverse log 1 meg pot, so i wired the rate pot backwards ...works great.
took a while to find a happy medium with the trimmers...i found the chorusing/flanging happened about 1/2 way on the bias, and the two gain trimmers had to be opposed at extremes to get close to unity gain (it's just a tad less).
there's NONE, i mean ZERO of the noise the eh reissue had. it's clean, quiet, and liquid.
thanks to cathexis and gigimarga, and mark hammer among others for helping me figure this thing out.
'
i used cathexis's layout, it works 100% perfectly, but is a TRUE stereo chorus, unlike the original which had an effect and a "dry" output.
sounds absolutely sick...i can't believe how quiet it is in operation. loving it.
i wired the stereo out direct to the second jack, and used a simple normal 3pdt bypass. worked great.
i'll hardly ever use it in stereo, so figured why bother going thru the hassle of a daughter board.
run it with an 18v wallwart for a dunlop brick i got off evilbay for like 15 bux shipped.
and wouldn't ya know it, i went out and bought the nte replacement for the mn3007, and today when i wired it up, the new 3007's came in.
figures...the nte chip was 10 bux!! lol
clips to follow...i am so psyched i am freakin' out a little. :)
done. ;)
clips to come!!
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/404397_2809253643391_1620235552_253.jpg)
Congratulations again pinkjimphoton! And thank you very much for your fabulous demo of Uglyface...it was for the first time when I like that strange effect!
On the other side, Paul Nelson have proposed some very interesting mods of Clone Theory here: http://sites.google.com/site/electroconducive/ehxclonetheory (http://sites.google.com/site/electroconducive/ehxclonetheory)...but it's not very clear for me which are tested and OK and which are not...and I don't want to make a stupidity, because I like it very much as it is now :)
In the next days, I will build the stereo part too...even I don't have 2 guitar amps :)
Best regards,
Radu
hi radu, i put up another thread here where you can hear it:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=95577.0
i am loving it...the trimmers are pretty crucial to get it dialed in right i found.
the stereo mode is hip!! sounds really good, but it's NOT like the original...the original was just a dry output, i don't even think it was buffered!!
this is TRUE stereo, and sounds absolutely luscious.
thinking of doing the delay time mod and variable feedback mod, but right now the only complaint i have is it's hard to get to unity gain...if you put dirt before it, even if the dirt pedal is pegged, the volume doesn't change, unlike the original...this seems companded somehow, but i think it's worth it cuz there's so much less background noise...the originals were like "whooooooooshhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh" when they were on, this one is dead quiet!
personally, i don't think the other mods are all that hip to be all that useful. but that's just me. ;)
the clone theory needs a make up gain stage after the circuit if you are gonna true bypass it.
worked this up for it, works great...pretty much any ebc npn will be fine.
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/index.gif)
special thanks to joe gagan for helping me figure this out!!
works great, low noise, can go slightly ABOVE unity if needed. hope it helps someone down the road.
peace.
it works, it's killer, i love it!!!
Great demo and work.
Really nice.
thanks frank!!
Some lovely analogue 'sea-sickness' going on there!
Think I'll go put some 'Floyd' on... Cheers!
you should build one...it's one of the cooler mod pedals of history imho!!
it LOOKS daunting on vero, but it's really not all that bad!! ;)
BUT.......
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=95996.0
:icon_eek: :icon_confused: ::) ??? >:( :icon_evil: :'(
i'm revisiting this circuit,
and discovered the vero is off a little that is on toppopicione's site... as shown, it has it doesn't show where to connect the chor/vib wiper!!
i will post the fix as soon as i figure it out.
the problem is with the chorus/vibe switch, as shown on the original vero and my copy, it's wrong. it's CLOSE, but the switch terminal connections are listed long.
i've just about got it sussed tho. i've learned enough i think in the last year, i can get it working better than it was and hopefully solve the noise issue i had which i believe to be a combo of poor wiring technique, and not having big enough current limiting resistors on the led's ... i think that's where most of the noise was coming from.
stay tuned...
Quote from: pinkjimiphoton on March 25, 2013, 11:47:46 PM
i'm revisiting this circuit,
and discovered the vero is off a little that is on toppopicione's site... as shown, it has it doesn't show where to connect the chor/vib wiper!!
i will post the fix as soon as i figure it out.
the problem is with the chorus/vibe switch, as shown on the original vero and my copy, it's wrong. it's CLOSE, but the switch terminal connections are listed long.
i've just about got it sussed tho. i've learned enough i think in the last year, i can get it working better than it was and hopefully solve the noise issue i had which i believe to be a combo of poor wiring technique, and not having big enough current limiting resistors on the led's ... i think that's where most of the noise was coming from.
stay tuned...
Not sure exactly what you mean here, I can't see an issue? Everything seems to have a connection.
One thing I
was never happy with on this one was the depth control though, seemed to have a few 'sweet spots' but not really work as a proper depth control, i'm not sure what FET you used either but I think the 2N5458 might not be the best substitute, I found one a lot closer, have to try and remember the code though... although even with a 2N4302 it doesn't work in a traditional sense.
Nice chorus regardless, although i've never tried it with the same audio path, just LFO/Clock set up.
Is there a pcb/perfboard version of it?
Jim: it's really a keeler sounding pedal!!
Quote from: pinkjimiphoton on March 25, 2013, 11:47:46 PM
the problem is with the chorus/vibe switch, as shown on the original vero and my copy, it's wrong
Oh, I see it. This needs to be fixed! Maybe I'll even get around to boxing this great pedal while I have it out. Good catch Jimi!!
LARS
yah, it was weird... i've been thinking of re-visiting this for a while, and noticed the chor/vibe pot was losing most of it's volume at one setting, all the way up in one of the modes.. so i went thru and re-vistited a little last nite, swapped all the opamps out for tl082'.. got it VERY quiet.. but then noticed it was noisy as hell as soon as i tried to box it.
so i looked at the vero, cuz i thought the switch looked weird, and realized i had it wired wrong somehow.. so started comparing the vero to the schem.
where it says "to chorvibe 1 and sw1a pole" i realized it was wrong.. that should be different... i'm thinking the "pole" is the common pin, right, that connects to either a or b?
i had it right at one point, but i screwed something up when a wire broke off, and it hasn't been right since.
gonna replace the 2k current resistors on the led's with probably 20 k, they are more than bright enough, and that should help with some of the noise i hope.
there's a pcb layout on the net, that i believe is verified. tackling this on vero is a challenge, but a cool one!! :icon_mrgreen:
okeedokee...
got this thing working, and it's working great.. i am surprised in fact just how much quieter it is now!!
i went to 47k(!!!!!!) believe it or not for the current limiting resistor. that helped... they're still bright enough (at 18v from the power supply) to be almost painful... knocked out A LOT of the noise. also added resistors to the cathodes of the led's. that helped too...those were 4.7k.
next up, replaced what's on my redraw of cathexis's vero resistor r42.. went from the 1meg resistor, to a 500k trimmer wired as a simple variable resistor. i back it off just a little bit to get the output the right level.
i replaced either r 12 or 13 with a pot... sorry, i don't have it here and i forget!! on one of the threads related to this, either paul or rg had reccomended replacing this resistor to get more volume out of the pedal. i feel like an idiot for not writing it down, sorry!!
should be fairly easy to figure which one once someone with more knowledge than me looks at it. it DOES work. you can even dial in a slightly crunchy overdrive here that sounds imho pretty sweet.
replaced ALL the opamps with tlo82, may try some lower noise 5532's (if them are the ones i think they are.. i have a huge bagfull a friend gave me).
worked much better than the 4558's and 1458 i used initially.
re-wired the switch, now i've got it working right... i can switch from chor/vibe to flange/vib. used a 3pdt, and a bi-color led. definitely reccomend the footswitch over a toggle.
the dead side of the chor/vibe pot was cold solder on the vero... took a little while to figure it out, but as of last nite it's permanently on my pedal board.
speaking of which, i tried putting it last in line, and it was noisy as hell and unusable... bummed. then i tried it near the beginning of the signal chain, just after my fuzz. that was it, it came to life, and very little noise. so i guess it's finally done!!
here's a quick shitty ms paint drawing of the footswitch, for posterity. i believe i got it right. if i didn't, someone please yell at me so i can fix it. ;)
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/clonetheoryswitchwiringdeet_zps9cc678be.png)
also, i believe as shown, the 1 + 3 poles on the depth pot need to be reversed!! if ya build this and it seems strange, check that. most of the effect of the depth control is right around 70%...above or below there, it has less effect.
i DID use the specified jfet for the depth control, and own an original (the one with the brite switch, i also owned the original with the vib/flange switch) and the depth control is just funky, so i don't know if it's the jfet or mike mathews was doing really GOOD acid that day. ;)
Quote from: pinkjimiphoton on March 27, 2013, 05:54:05 PM
also, i believe as shown, the 1 + 3 poles on the depth pot need to be reversed!! if ya build this and it seems strange, check that. most of the effect of the depth control is right around 70%...above or below there, it has less effect.
i DID use the specified jfet for the depth control, and own an original (the one with the brite switch, i also owned the original with the vib/flange switch) and the depth control is just funky, so i don't know if it's the jfet or mike mathews was doing really GOOD acid that day. ;)
I've tried every combination of pot tapers etc on the depth pot, it's just weird in general and there's not really any getting round that, think it's just because FETs are FETs.
I recommend a delay time control on this, just replace R36 with a 25k Pot with a small resistor in series.
i dunno if i can fit another pot in this thing!!
well.. maybe!
but it sounds so good i am happy with it like it is.
the depth pot is always just weird, i used to ride it with my toe to make it sweep back in the day.. there's a definite sweet spot.
thanks for the tip on the delay time pot scruffie! ;)
Quote from: pinkjimiphoton on March 27, 2013, 10:33:54 PM
i dunno if i can fit another pot in this thing!!
well.. maybe!
but it sounds so good i am happy with it like it is.
the depth pot is always just weird, i used to ride it with my toe to make it sweep back in the day.. there's a definite sweet spot.
thanks for the tip on the delay time pot scruffie! ;)
If ya can't fit a pot you can switch that delay time cap (620pF) with an On/Off/On switch between 3 values, it really does offer some great new sounds and works like... well a depth pot in this case almost. Very useful and can take it from thin and settled watery to thick and my glass of water is near jurassic park watery or even my chorus got left in the stone tile bathroom if the filtering is good enough to not whine.
It really does have a sweet spot, using it i've often wondered if it's worth even being there, seems to have mild chorus/ awesome chorus/ some other chorus as its settings.
fwiw, the info on this appears to be wrong .... power supply is not 15v, it's 18v... 36-0-36 transformer.
i just bought a non working one from britain on fleabay, and after repairing some damage (someone had cut in a buffered clean blend with the clone's fx'd output) i checked the transformer... was reading 9v, or 18-0-18...because it had a transformer for brit power (240) not yank (115). just to be sure i opened up my good clone, same board (series 300) and sure enough, we're not running these clones right..it should be run at 18v, not 15.
not quite savvy enough to understand the diff in hooking up the power supply, as i didn't see any difference in the secondary, like, no -/+ voltage.
or maybe i'm clueless? probable... ;)
i ordered the 36vct transformer... will report back when it's up and running.
Here's a schematic of the Clone Theory that shows the "proper" power supply that includes a 15 volt regulator.
It looks like the schematic posted at the beginning of this thread left out that little detail.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Clone%20Theory.jpg)
Yes it does get 18V, which goes through a 15v regulator to give the board 15V.
Hook up 18V you risk killing the BBD, 18V MAX if I recall, so an 18.1V supply could be bad news.
Check the original schematics, 15V regulator ;)
Edit: Or you could read armdnrdy's post as he beat me to the punch :)
Quote from: Scruffie on November 22, 2013, 09:01:01 PM
Hook up 18V you risk killing the BBD, 18V MAX if I recall, so an 18.1V supply could be bad news.
15V max
i dig the regulator, but what i don't get is why use a center tapped transformer for the power supply if all you need is 18v, why put in a 36v transformer? seems like it would have been cheaper to put in a simpler transformer...
or is there a reason it's worth adding ?
Quote from: Fender3D on November 22, 2013, 09:15:25 PM
Quote from: Scruffie on November 22, 2013, 09:01:01 PM
Hook up 18V you risk killing the BBD, 18V MAX if I recall, so an 18.1V supply could be bad news.
15V max
I could have sworn it was 18V terminal...
Oh well, doesn't matter that much, still a bad idea.
Quote from: pinkjimiphoton on November 22, 2013, 10:56:23 PM
i dig the regulator, but what i don't get is why use a center tapped transformer for the power supply if all you need is 18v, why put in a 36v transformer? seems like it would have been cheaper to put in a simpler transformer...
or is there a reason it's worth adding ?
They probably just had a lot of those transformers for there other products, why buy 2 different kinds if you can buy one type in bulk and still use it.
shoot, the transformer i ordered arrived. sadly, it's as big as the dang unit!! ;)
anybody know where i can find the proper transformer for one of these?
i could go with a charge pump if i have to i guess, but i'd rather put in something close!!
Quote from: pinkjimiphoton on November 23, 2013, 10:51:49 AM
shoot, the transformer i ordered arrived. sadly, it's as big as the dang unit!! ;)
anybody know where i can find the proper transformer for one of these?
i could go with a charge pump if i have to i guess, but i'd rather put in something close!!
I would look through the transformers that Mouser offers. They have PDFs with foot prints for all everything they stock.
That alleviates the "surprise" factor. :icon_wink:
EHX and many other companies used center tapped transformers for single supplies for a few reasons.
As Scruffie stated, order in bulk at a discounted rate...one size fits all.
But in this case there's something more important in the mix. Using a center tapped transformer to create a single supply allows for full wave rectification. (the two diodes)
Full wave rectification provides twice the AC smoothing than half wave, allowing for smaller (by half) filter capacitors which used to be more expensive at the time of the Clone Theory's inception.
So...to sum it all up....it's just better! ;D