Well, it's not working perfect, but it's working. First off I used 330n because i didnt have any 220 around. I swapped a few resistor values for what I had around.. and used the MPSA18 as suggested. What I'm getting is not seasick, nor does it even sound like vibrato. It sound like a sine wave style trem. It's very fuzzy as well, If I wanted to stop that, Would I need to change the bias on the transistors, or increase the resister on base? Seems like a fun little circuit to play with. :icon_mrgreen: :icon_mrgreen:
(http://i605.photobucket.com/albums/tt137/pinkjimiphoton/Magnavibev3_nocentelli.gif)
also, as it's not noted, I just ran lug 1 of both pots to ground...
The depth pot lug1 should be connected to lug2 or left disconnected: It's used a variable resistor between the +9v supply and the LED which leads to the Q2 collector, raising and lowering the brightness of the LED to adjust depth. If you connect lug1 to ground, it becomes a voltage divider instead. Speed1 is fine to ground (it should also be tied to lug2, but since this is ground anyway, it won't make a difference. I can't speculate whether this will cure the problem: How far away from the specified values are your substituted bias resistors? This is more likely the problem. A working magnavibe is definitely a vibrato (pitch wobble) and not fuzzy.
Quote from: nocentelli on November 09, 2012, 02:01:06 AM
The depth pot lug1 should be connected to lug2 or left disconnected: It's used a variable resistor between the +9v supply and the LED which leads to the Q2 collector, raing and lowering the brightness of the LED to adjust depth. If you connect lug1 to ground, it becomes a voltage divider instead. Speed1 is fine to ground (it should also be tied to lug2, but since this is ground anyway, it won't make a difference. I can't speculate whether this will cure the problem: How far away from the specified values are your substituted bias resistors? This is more likely the problem. A working magnavibe is definitely a vibrato (pitch wobble) and not fuzzy.
7.5 is 6.2
4.7 is 3.4
1.5 is 1
The 4.7 you've quoted should be 4M7, not 4k7 (just checking) so i assume you've got a 3M4 in there. Those values aren't too far away, but still might be far enough away to affect the bias sufficiently to make it fuzzy. You could try getting closer by putting combinations of resistors in series or parallel, although I can see how this is going to be a problem if you're trying to get it to fit them on an existing vero layout.
Quote from: nocentelli on November 09, 2012, 11:38:28 AM
The 4.7 you've quoted should be 4M7, not 4k7 (just checking) so i assume you've got a 3M4 in there. Those values aren't too far away, but still might be far enough away to affect the bias sufficiently to make it fuzzy. You could try getting closer by putting combinations of resistors in series or parallel, although I can see how this is going to be a problem if you're trying to get it to fit them on an existing vero layout.
The led and controls and everything work great, it just work as a trem, no pitch bending like I can notice.. What would effect that?
Is it fuzzy or not? If it's fuzzy, it's not working great. As for the trem/vibe thing, the LDR resistance wobbles up and down with the LED flashes: Wobbling resistance between collector and emitter gives vibrato, wobbling LDR resistance between collector and ground gives you tremolo - You can put this on a switch as an extra option (though you need to slightly lower the Q1 emitter resistor to compensate for the perceived volume drop) - And clearly hear the difference. Check your LDR is definitely connecting collector to emitter of Q1.
Afew other people who built this reported the vibe effect was dependent on the proximity and alignment of the LED/LDR combo: I found the greatest vibrato depth was to be found with them very close (with the LED facing directly onto the LDR surface) but not quite touching - Have a fiddle and report back.
hello
i up this old post, because i have some troubles with this exact circuit
first i have to say that i'm a complitely newbie in diy pedals, my experience is just 3 builded kits, and no more
well, i've followed the layout posted here, with all the same components with no ecceptions, the circuits run, the internal led works, the sound exit from output, BUT there's basically no effect...the led never flashed, it just stays on, in constant brightness...
the "depth" pot works (turning it the led rise in brightness)...the effect works, because touching the circuit makes the led oscillate sometimes, and in those moments you can hear the vibrato effect
all components are completely new, expect some capacitors...
can someone give me some hints, please??
P.S. i hope i explained well:-)
Check for cold solder joints, bridges, cracks in the board maybe.
the biggest clue i can give you is
"the effect works, because touching the circuit makes the led oscillate sometimes, and in those moments you can hear the vibrato effect"
Check around the led?
Somethings only intermittantly touching where it should.
Welcome to the forum and to debugging.
thank you very much kipper!!
im still not sure which is the element that cause electricity to come and go, because i still dont have soldered the pots ('cos i want to wait at the last to assembly them, to put it better in the enclosure), but it could be something else...
anyway, i'll check this more carefully ASAP, and let you know
thanx for the hints and for the welcome!!
greeting from florence, italy
ah, last thing: i red in another post (about the same layout) to solder speed1 to ground and let depth1 unconnected, and so i did...should it be ok, shouldn't it?
looking at this schematic
http://s605.photobucket.com/user/pinkjimiphoton/media/MagnavibeSchemsmall.jpg.html
solder speed 1 and 2 together > to ground
solder depth 1 and 2 together> to the led - (anode )
Search the forum there's plenty of threads about the magnavibe. with notes and posts about how it works.
I hope you get it going.
Quote from: pipporan on April 22, 2016, 07:17:31 PM
thank you very much kipper!!
im still not sure which is the element that cause electricity to come and go, because i still dont have soldered the pots
pipporan - hello florence. what do you mean by 'don't have soldered the pots'? can you post some photos of what you have built?
i used the exact layout posted at the top of the page: there's written where to connect speed 2 and 3, and depth 2 and 3, but not where to put depth 1 and speed1...anyway, i connected speed1 to ground (together with speed2)...i'll try to connect depth 1 to depth, even if i'm quite sure it will do no difference (because depth pot works perfectly: when you turn it, the brightness of the led increases and decreases)
for the photo, look at the photos: at photo nr2, you can see i just put the wires in pot's holes, without soldering them..it could be this the reason for the led to turn on and off sometimes (if you disconnect speed pot, led turns off)
right now i'll do some checks to the solders and will let you know...thanx for now...
(http://s31.postimg.org/plessqutz/magnavibe1.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/plessqutz/)
(http://s31.postimg.org/vc4z6h2tz/magnavibe2.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/vc4z6h2tz/)
(http://s31.postimg.org/ulc90p0gn/magnavibe3.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ulc90p0gn/)
one thing i need to know (sorry for the stupid question, but my knowledge is veeeeery limited): WHAT part of the circuit should make the led flash and not stay on all the time? Q2? or the 1uf polarized caps? or something else?
because, if the led should flash for the effect to work properly, and the led DOESN'T flash, i have to check the problem in that part of the circuit, right??
anyway, i've just checked for unwanted bridges, and it seems to be okay...
Quote from: Kipper4 on April 22, 2016, 03:24:28 PM
Check for cold solder joints, bridges, cracks in the board maybe.
the biggest clue i can give you is
"the effect works, because touching the circuit makes the led oscillate sometimes, and in those moments you can hear the vibrato effect"
Check around the led?
Somethings only intermittantly touching where it should.
+1 start here, reflow solder to be SURE everything is connected. Then cut between soldered spots with exacto, dremmel, tiny nail file, tiny screw driver, whatever you have, drag and scrape it between everything that should not be touching.
If R7 or R11 are too big/small (or shorted) it may cause the LED to stay on
i've just soldered the wires to the pots,so the blinking is over, now the led always stay on
QuoteIf R7 or R11 are too big/small (or shorted) it may cause the LED to stay on
the value is what i red on the layout (the same of the schematic): R7 is 2.2k, and R11 is 1.8k...i used all the exact components written in the layout...they all brand new, except 2 polar-caps...the LED is a standard bright one
Quotereflow solder to be SURE everything is connected
i'll do this right now, i'll reflow everything i can
EDITi'vejust reflowed everything, checked again with the multimeter for electrical continuty, and everything seems to be okay...i've just checked the resistors for proper values, and they are okay too...and the led is still fixed >:(
Well that sucks. I'm trying to wrack my brain to remember when/how I had those issues when I built mine and that's all I can think of. I've built two now with pretty much the exact parts in that schematic so I know it works. I remember experimenting with those (R7/R11) and the pot values, if you go too deep and/or fast the light stays on but that's all I remember.
The fact that you can make it blink sometimes when handling the board is screaming "bad connection" somewhere.
But, if you've reflowed solder and lost the ability to make it work sometimes when handling, then it could be something else.
Can you post bigger, clearer pics? and a link directly to that layout you used?
It might just be my eyes and those photos are pretty sketchy.
I can't see the polarity protection diode and power filtering cap.
Are those secondhand capacitors working as they should? Can you check with the meter on capacitor setting?
It's a weird one.
pipopran -
Quoteyou can see i just put the wires in pot's holes, without soldering them
this is not allowed. connections must be soldered, not poked. if you only want temporary, you can use alligator clips on leads, but just poking won't work. also:
Quoteyou can see i just put the wires in pot's holes, without soldering them
this is not allowed. those holes you have the wires poked into are
not for us to use. they are mechanicals for the lugs, and we solder the wires to the lugs so the mechanicals don't get loose - bad connections - useless pot. also, wires soldered all the way up there can short to the body of the pot, another bad thing.
start your buildings with confidence - I'll solder these bloody wires to this bleeding pot, and this pedal will bloody well
work first go!when you have pots with an outer lug (CW or CCW, sometimes called 1 or 3) not explictly connected to some nominated point, you are allowed to either leave it unconnected, or connect the unwired lug short to the wiper. this makes the potetiometer a variable resistance instead of a voltage divider.
so, now all your wires are soldered, and your led is flashing ....... you need to have your LDR completely in the dark. any light, even reflections off the BB will shift the vibeing to some extent. put a box over it, or a 35mm film can, something to block the light.
these are new pics:
(http://[url=http://postimg.org/image/5n4fd395j/%5D%5Bimg%5Dhttp://s31.postimg.org/5n4fd395j/magnavibe4.jpg)[/url]
(http://s31.postimg.org/bpgnhbmzb/magnavibe5.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/bpgnhbmzb/)
(http://s31.postimg.org/heww1mt5j/magnavibe6.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/heww1mt5j/)
(http://s31.postimg.org/mrlqfrh1z/magnavibe7.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/mrlqfrh1z/)[/img]
i cant do with better qualities, sorry, i just have the notebook's camera to make them...
i took the layout (and schematic) from here:
http://revolutiondeux.blogspot.it/2012/01/bigfoot-fx-magnavibe.html (http://revolutiondeux.blogspot.it/2012/01/bigfoot-fx-magnavibe.html)
i followed it exactly, with no expections, exact components, exact layout...
Quoteyou can see i just put the wires in pot's holes, without soldering them
this is not allowed. connections must be soldered, not poked. if you only want temporary, you can use alligator clips on leads, but just poking won't work. also:
Quote
you can see i just put the wires in pot's holes, without soldering them
this is not allowed. those holes you have the wires poked into are not for us to use. they are mechanicals for the lugs, and we solder the wires to the lugs so the mechanicals don't get loose - bad connections - useless pot. also, wires soldered all the way up there can short to the body of the pot, another bad thing.
now i soldered the wires to the pot's lugs...and the random blinking has stopped, so it was due to the wires not well connected to the "speed" pot...
Quote
so, now all your wires are soldered, and your led is flashing ....... you need to have your LDR completely in the dark. any light, even reflections off the BB will shift the vibeing to some extent. put a box over it, or a 35mm film can, something to block the light.
the led just stays on, always bright, with no blinking...i've tried to put the circuit in complete darkness, the audio signal goes out from the circuit, perfectly clean, but no vibrato effect goes out from that (because the led is not blinking)...
maybe could it be the used capacitors that i put in the circuit? i think in next days i will rebuild the circuit in a new board, with ALL new components
one more thing we can't get a clear view of is the pots. If there is a loose strand or solder bridge between any of those lugs it can cause the 9v to flow straight thru the pot. Also if the pot is defective/damaged or wired incorrectly this can happen, make sure pots have their wipers soldered to the correct adjacent lugs.
I'm perplexed the layout has 9 rows down. Your board has 10.
Have you probed it with an Audio probe. To see what's happening with the signal ?
Maybe it's time to do some transistor voltages too.
erm, I think you've built the board upside down.
when looking at a board layout, you look down onto the tops of the components, with the board underneath them, and the copper tracks underneath that. so you just poke the parts thu the holes until your board, viewed from above (cause you can't see the components from underneath, the copper side, of the board) looks exactly like the one in the diagram.
[also, when I say solder with confidence, you do then need to meter-measure all the wired connections before you power on, but you can do that with confidence too.]
Quoteone more thing we can't get a clear view of is the pots. If there is a loose strand or solder bridge between any of those lugs it can cause the 9v to flow straight thru the pot. Also if the pot is defective/damaged or wired incorrectly this can happen, make sure pots have their wipers soldered to the correct adjacent lugs.
the pots now are well soldered, i'm sure of it, no unwanted bridges between the lugs, the pots are all bran new, of the right resistance, ecc ecc ecc
QuoteI'm perplexed the layout has 9 rows down. Your board has 10.
Quotewhen looking at a board layout, you look down onto the tops of the components, with the board underneath them, and the copper tracks underneath that. so you just poke the parts thu the holes until your board, viewed from above (cause you can't see the components from underneath, the copper side, of the board) looks exactly like the one in the diagram.
my board is a little different from the original because i made a mistake and made a cut track on the last row, so i used the 10th row to make a bridge between the 2 parts of the 9th row that i divided for my mistake...you see the board like in a specular (mirror) view because when i cut tracks i did it looking at the back of the board (the part of the strips), without thinking that verything would be t his contrary (and very difficoult to view and debug) (as you say, duck_arse: lack of experience:-( )
QuoteHave you probed it with an Audio probe. To see what's happening with the signal ?
i didnt use an audio probe because the signal exit from the output correctly, there's no vibrato effect just because the led is always on instead of flashing...
i think i will spare time desoldering everything and rebuilding a new board...:-(
ok, just a fast update: i've just finish to rebuild it, i've just conncted the power, and the led's flashing!!!!!!!
now i'll try with the sound:D, but i'm confident it will work
guys, i really want to say a thing: i'm 35, i've been atteding forums online about lot of stuff (motorcycles, poker, informatic, music, RVs, etc etc etc), but i NEVER had an welcome like this: i had no active post in ts forum, and lot of people immediately tried to help me, with lots of differents advice...i'm impressed, and afterall, very very grateful!!!
P.S. i think it will happen soon that i will ask again for some other pedal:)
ah, just 2 thing:
for anyone else who will build this pedal, i suggest super-bright RED led: the effect is more intense with red than with any other colours...
the second one: how could i do to have the EXTERNAL led flashing too??
the very most simple way to have a rate led external is to wire another led in series with the first one. it will go dim to follow the depth setting as well. it can go between the 1k8 and the depth pot if that is easier, as long as it is in series somewhere in that string of parts.
I have two questions for you - did you try a different value for the "Lyman cap" - and - is the giro passing your house this year?
and good work on the getting to work.
ok, so i could put for example here (where i painted on the image the 2 green "X")??and then simply add a resistor?there is no problems of too much power consumption?
(http://s32.postimg.org/86mj642cl/Magnavibe_v2_verif2.gif)
Quotedid you try a different value for the "Lyman cap"
sorry my friend, you have to specify which is the lyman cap (and what it does:D)...anyway, i havent changed nothing, to be sure it works:)
Quoteis the giro passing your house this year?
EXACTLY!!!!!
the tenth stage pass really close to florence, but afterall, the NINTH stage (15th may, it's an individual stage, very short) goes from RADDA IN CHIANTI to GREVE IN CHIANTI...maybe you know "CHIANTI" zone, it's one of the first toscan region to be famous (famous for the wine from centuries)...well, that's where i come from:)
where are you from, duck?
I believe it's probably that 100nF on the far right of the picture, I replaced mine with a 10nF, IIRC. It might be dependent on the type of LDR/LED combo you use, but for me it seemed to modulate the upper frequencies better and gave a nice shimmery effect.
no, not that green crossed link. I think it easiest to cut the top trace, say at A10. then wire the new led Anode to A9 and the Kathode to A11. there is no other additions, no extra resistor needed, just the new led.
the lyman cap is the 100nF on the lyman left, yes. I thought it sounded best at 5n6, but this will vary with your particular build and taste.
and I expect you to be on the street waving that day, pipporan, so I can see when I'm watching on teevee here in sydney, australia. (I ask all european members if the grand tours are passing, you're the first to say EXACTLY!!!!!)
You might also try a small resistor (say 8k2 to 22k ish) across the so called "Lyman cap" and it should introduce a bit of volume modulation along with the pitch bending.
QuoteI believe it's probably that 100nF on the far right of the picture, I replaced mine with a 10nF, IIRC
Quotethe lyman cap is the 100nF on the lyman left, yes. I thought it sounded best at 5n6, but this will vary with your particular build and taste.
QuoteYou might also try a small resistor (say 8k2 to 22k ish) across the so called "Lyman cap" and it should introduce a bit of volume modulation along with the pitch bending.
ok, so i think that before boxing it, i will put sockets instead of lyman cap, so i can try some options...
QuoteI think it easiest to cut the top trace, say at A10. then wire the new led Anode to A9 and the Kathode to A11. there is no other additions, no extra resistor needed, just the new led.
perfect, if it's so easy to have it blinking, that's what i will do!
Quoteand I expect you to be on the street waving that day, pipporan, so I can see when I'm watching on teevee here in sydney, australia. (I ask all european members if the grand tours are passing, you're the first to say EXACTLY!!!!!)
wow from sidney...from the other side of the planet...do you follow the big cycling tours?
i always followed them, until marco pantani died, then i stopped...it was the only sportman that ever gave me some emotions..after him, i lost interest in it...i just look some of the high mountains stag of giro d'italia and tour de france...are they (the big tours) very famous in australia????
QuoteI think it easiest to cut the top trace, say at A10. then wire the new led Anode to A9 and the Kathode to A11. there is no other additions, no extra resistor needed, just the new led.
no, wait: but if i cut the top trace, i cut the circuit from 1.8k resistor to 9v...??? or will be the led to close the circuit again?
I BB'd a magna vibe last night so I could futz around with it.
I still like the 10nF for that shimmery sound.
I also tried a variable resistor across the cap to find a nice mix of vibrato/tremolo. I like a 51k parallel to my 10nF.
I also added a second LED parallel to the LED inside my vactrol so I could watch the depth/rate. It did not affect the circuit in a bad way either, in fact the effect actually intensified. I tried a few different types of LEDs as visuals and each one had a different affect on my vactrol action, some neg/some pos but I think it sounded best when I used two matching LEDs. This will be a nice addition to the top of the pedal as a visual for the user, the icing on the cake is that it also intensifies the effect! Well... for me anyway. I suppose it all depends on what value LDR, LED, etc.
I am using a clear brite LED in shrink wrap about 1/4" away from and facing a Tayda (Waitrony?) LDR spec'd at 500k dark but I measured it sealed up dark at 967k.
cut the trace, the led, as you say, closes the circuit. it is all in series, you see.
and, I'm glad to see you say deeper, Mr L, because it is something I have thought was a real thing for a while now. the extra 1V6 across the extra led means the both leds turn off a little sooner for a little longer, so the ldr can relax in the dark, have a smoke, put it's feet up for a while .....
I tried (blind hacking) the magnavibe with a valve phase splitting tonight, but all I got was a nice tremolo. last time I bb'd the magna w/ kipper's help, I added a switch to switch to trem mode, but I also have a gainer frontend and an output buffer stage.
follow the grand tours - yes, kind of. the local teevee has been showing every stage of le tour for a few years now, and it is a nice way to while away the cold winter nights on telly. they are now showing all the giro and the veulta, as well as the spring classics. I like the cobbles races.
Quote from: duck_arse on May 14, 2016, 11:26:42 AM
...the extra 1V6 across the extra led means the both leds turn off a little sooner for a little longer...
Yes! Thanks Duck, that's what I have been trying to say is the problem with this circuit but I don't know enough, let alone how to fix it. The LED *NEEDS* to go darker and stay darker a little longer. So, how else can we apply a little 1V6 across it if we don't feel like using another LED? Probably a diode, right? This could very well be the missing element to the Magnavibe.
Here's one more thing I discovered recently on my BB: I put a second LDR in SERIES with the first to double the (dark) resistance and faced it to my second LED.
So that's: Two LDR's in series facing two LED's in parallel. The effect is very intense and I got a nice volume boost out of it, plus placing my 51k across the "L" cap adds a nice subtle volume modulation to the pitch bending as I noted before, making a nice simulation of rotary speaker, albeit mono.
Last night I tried the 50k // with the "L" cap and yer it was nice. Great mod Ben.
I did get some ticking though as you know Ben but that was probably the mismatched led I put in parallel with the vactrol. I should have paid more attention to the details.
After a lot of tinkering with the Magnavibe over the last few months I'm gonna have to put it back on the breadboard and try the double vactrol thing though.
Thanks again. Your a diamond as is D A.
I'll try it tomorrow afternoon when I get back from lake swimming.
That'll be a new one for me. The grandkids are tri athletes and want me to come and enjoy the fun.
As long as they don't expect me to keep up.
Only problem is there's a cycle race in the city we have to go through to get there. Grrr.
Bonus Is we get to have a picnic after alfresco after.
Sorry duck........
Carry on.
Ah yes, you are right Rich! Bad ticking when I max the depth and speed, bummer. I had to scrap that mod for now and go back to dialing in the vactrols, two sounds great.
you blokes - yer mixing the DC from the collector wit der DC from the emitter. put a whacking big cap (to pass all freqs) in between the collector and the so-called L cap, then hang your Lyman resistor across the L cap, and report back.
[edit :] oh, and kipper - don't forget to "lard up" for your swim, to keep warm. I think the pro's favour goose fat.
and I saw pipporan, huddling under his umbrella, at the giro.
Thanks Duck, couldn't get that to make a difference, but probably only because I was doing it all wrong in the first place.
Here's my new experiment:
100k (or choice) *BETWEEN* collector and "L" cap. The amount of depth increases substantially :) although the volume also drops :(
This mod may be the one thing worthy of a make up gain stage but I need you "more-pro" guys to try it and lemme know what you think.
Rather than across the cap (allowing dc flow) I put it in front of OR after, either way sounds the same (I think?)
I guess it is reducing the one signal (from collector) and allowing a little more of the (inverted?) signal from the emitter.
I don't know what it's doing but it turns an otherwise subtle vibrato into something more "in your face"
I'm off to try some lower value resistors right there and see if I can lessen the depth a little bit and find a happy medium.
Quoteand I saw pipporan, huddling under his umbrella, at the giro.
sorry man, too much rain for my taste;)
and afterall, i never liked the chrono-stages
last 2 questions about magnavibe: about the flashing led, i have to put in 3PDT, right? otherwise it will turn on when i plug the power...?
if i want to put 2 effects in the same box, with indipendent 3pdt switches (in this case they could be EA tremolo i just build and this magnavibe), which one would you put first in the chain? i would think the vibrato...and, putting 2 effects plugging them from the same dc plug, doesnt have any bad effects for power (i dont know, something like there's no enough power for both)??
two in one box - if you do this, you will want to put a supply filter R/C in the supply to the trem, and one in the supply to the vibe, just because it is good practice. if you llok over at AMZ, there is a page about supply filters will explain all. there should be plenty of supply juice for these particular circuits from "a dc plug", no problem.
the flashing led will be flashing all the while the oscillator is running. unless you switch around the led, but that would be daft. and, this type oscillator can be a little slow to start up at certain settings, so you might hit the switch and get .................... tr ... trremm ..... tremolo, like. I'd personally let the oscillator run from when you plug in, and just use dpdt to bypass the signal around the whole fx. others like to leave the trem in-line w/ the signal the whole time, and just stop the osc (there are ways), but again, you might get slow start which you might not like.
otherwise, use a 3pdt for an effect on/off led, and have a seperate led flashing all the time. I did that on my ez-type trem, with a blinking orangs mounted above an on/off red, in a small block of perspex. there is a million ways to do these things .....
I'm not much chop for the individual TT, the team TT slightly more interesting.
and Ben, if you're still reading - does the tour of california pass your house this year?
Quote from: duck_arse on May 18, 2016, 11:41:15 AM
and Ben, if you're still reading - does the tour of california pass your house this year?
About 15 min. away, the final stage is right downtown. I used to live on a dead end street right downtown and any bike race, foot race, parade, etc. would trap us in our houses on that street unless we all moved our cars out the night before
Quotetwo in one box - if you do this, you will want to put a supply filter R/C in the supply to the trem, and one in the supply to the vibe, just because it is good practice. if you llok over at AMZ, there is a page about supply filters will explain all. there should be plenty of supply juice for these particular circuits from "a dc plug", no problem.
mmmm...too many potential troubles for this, i have plenty of boxes right now, i'll box in an enclosure for each effect:D
nah, easy. you just need to add a resistor and a cap on each of your boards, and many designs/layouts will already have the parts there. pick the builds you think are the right ones for you, show us here, and we'll fix you right up, I'll give you the drum.
from this page:
http://www.muzique.com/lab/filter.htm
what is a choke???do i need it fo my purpose? or it's just about mount a resistor and a cap at the beginning of the circuit?
A choke is a big honkin' inductor used for power filtering.
this page is the one you really want:
http://www.muzique.com/lab/hum.htm
I always get the links confused. and as midway says, honkin big to be any use, not really for our pedal purposes. and a choke is an inductor, which works, roughly, the opposite way a capacitor does, it chokes-off high freq AC, and allows DC through.
so, final recap should be:
for DC: 100ohm resistor between V+ e V+ input, 220uf cap between V+/V Input and ground
for signal: 100-1k ohms resistor between audio input and board input, and 220pf cap between input and ground...nothing more is required, right?
so, this thing could be helpfull in general, even if i put one effect in one box...and this should help even for the fact that i will use plastic boxes, right?
guys, you are a endless source of infos..i really really appreciate!!!!!!! if you continue like this, there's a serious risk that at the end, i will understand a bit about electronic:)
EDIT: something like this??
(http://s33.postimg.org/69qd0eixb/render.gif)
there is no need for the filter on the audio input. some circuits include that protection, others don't. the power supply filter is correct.
an easy way with plastic boxes is to cut a thin sheet of Aluminium (or thick, if you like) the same size to fit inside the lid, or in the bottom of the box. then drill all your pot and switch holes in it, and it will provide shielding and some strengthening. as no-one will ever see it, it can be the crappiest bit of sheet you have laying about, all odd holes and off square, etc.
you could even bend it square on one side, to run up the box side, and then mount your jacks through the plate and sidewall.
I assume there are cuts under those resistors?
(http://s33.postimg.org/69qd0eixb/render.gif)
QuoteI assume there are cuts under those resistors?
ops :-[ :-[ :-[ :-[