In my never ending quest of creating huge veros, I've decided to take on the Infinitphase.
I guess I must be working up to the Ludwig :icon_eek:. Anyway, this is what I have so far;
Schematic (PDF), http://prophecysound.com/products/infinitphase-mkii (http://prophecysound.com/products/infinitphase-mkii)
As for the vero, it still hasn't passed the trace test yet, but I figured I would share what I have so far. I've made it to fit the same enclosure as the ones I've used for my Ludwig, Tau Phaser, and Ring Stinger. That's the G124MF, available at Newark; http://canada.newark.com/multicomp/g124mf/box-diecast-222x146x55mm/dp/55T2820 (http://canada.newark.com/multicomp/g124mf/box-diecast-222x146x55mm/dp/55T2820) .
I decided to split the build into 3 boards. A power supply board, and the CV step board is piggy backed onto the main board, a la Gemini Dual Fuzz, using solid core copper wire stand-offs to transfer the power and ground. Here they are, like I said, still a work in progress.
The power board,
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/Powerboardvero.jpg)
The main board (with CV step board piggy-backed),
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/Mainboardvero.jpg)
BOM,
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/VeroBOM.jpg)
I haven't drawn up the wiring yet, since I'm still tracing. The phase LED's are 2x5mm square, and the LDR's are Waitrony KE10720's. The LDR's are set up in about a 20mm diameter circle. I'm guestimating this from this picture,
(http://www.beavisaudio.com/gg/images/ProphecySound_InfiniphaseMarkII_1.jpg)
Yes... I am a twisted @#$%, but would you guys have me any other way? :icon_twisted: I'll keep this updated as I progress. If anyone wishes to help me in proofing the vero vis-a-vis the schematic, they're more than welcome to join my terror spree. :icon_mrgreen: If anyone has one, and wishes to help out, please, don't be shy.
You've got to be kidding me. This is just evil. Extreme props.
I don't even know where to source vero that big. In New Mexico we call this "loco". ;D
You brave fool ;D , I'll be watching this one with interest.
Quote from: SmoothAction on December 30, 2012, 08:43:35 PM
I don't even know where to source vero that big. In New Mexico we call this "loco". ;D
Best place for vero is Pixel Print Ltd. They have an Ebay store. They're located in British Columbia, Canada. They have the best prices on vero, anywhere, hands down. I bought a piece 11.5"x19.5" (23000 holes) from them, $16, $6 for the shipping.
Excellent. A 19x11" vero is just what I need to stay (in)sane. Keep us up to date on this. Thanks for the source on ridiculously huge vero board. :)
I was having a look at the power supply schematic to check your power power supply vero, which looks good, and noticed there are two points for taking +/-15V from the supply. One pair are labelled +15VA and -15VA, I presume this means 15V Audio. If you look at the audio IC's (signal path and phaser stages), they are powered by the +/-15VA points. I guess the purpose of the diodes D105 to D108 is to prevent noise from the LFO stages affecting the audio stages. If you want to stay true to the schematic, you'll need to run these separate +/-15VA power rails.
Wow, looks like a mammoth build, I'm sure you will succeed. Looking forward to the video and sound clips! And a demonstration of how to drive it!
Quote from: Ronan on December 31, 2012, 04:17:02 PM
I was having a look at the power supply schematic to check your power power supply vero, which looks good, and noticed there are two points for taking +/-15V from the supply. One pair are labelled +15VA and -15VA, I presume this means 15V Audio. If you look at the audio IC's (signal path and phaser stages), they are powered by the +/-15VA points. I guess the purpose of the diodes D105 to D108 is to prevent noise from the LFO stages affecting the audio stages. If you want to stay true to the schematic, you'll need to run these separate +/-15VA power rails.
Wow, looks like a mammoth build, I'm sure you will succeed. Looking forward to the video and sound clips! And a demonstration of how to drive it!
Ian, God bless your eyes. I hadn't noticed that, but then again, it's a handful of a circuit. Many thanks mate! I'll look over the circuits, and make the necessary adjustments. I'm not beneath running jumpers at this point, since I have to keep the whole thing inside of these dimensions.
I saw an old post where Mike from Prophecy unleashed the schematics for the Infinitphase and where he mentioned posting the board layouts.
Did he ever posts the layouts?
dino....you sick son of a gun.....
:icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek: :icon_eek:
:icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted: :icon_twisted:
<3
etch a pcb, for god's sakes, man!
way to go Dino, DIY for the pure joy of it, that's what make life meaningful. that, and phasers. ;)
Quote from: garcho on December 31, 2012, 10:41:15 PM
etch a pcb, for god's sakes, man!
way to go Dino, DIY for the pure joy of it, that's what make life meaningful. that, and phasers. ;)
I wish I could, but apart from the fact that I don't have a PCB layout, I'm not smart enough to create one (yet!), and I don't have the capacity or experience to etch. So, vero is my friend.
I've updated the veros above. I redrew the rails to reflect what Ian pointed out, and I found some errors. It just needs a final trace through, and BOM verification, and I'm off to the next step... inventory assesment, and/or ordering.
I'm sticking wings on this sucker, and throwin' it off a cliff! :icon_twisted:
Alright, I've fine-toothed it, and everything is going where it should. Drawings are updated, but...
I have a question. Where the 8 LDR circle is concerned, let's say in a clockwise fashion, following the schematic, should they be arranged in an alternating fashion (1,5,2,6,3,7,4,8) or in series (1,2,3,4,5,6,7,8)? Does it make a difference? Am I making any sense? :icon_rolleyes:
The reason why I ask is because I would like to add a 4/8 stage switch, but I'm worried that if I wire all the LDR's in series, then I'll have two LDR's in between LED's in 4 stage mode (4 LDR's in a half the circle). I'm thinking that alternating will give me 4 LDR's facing the 4 LED's in 4 stage mode (4 LDR's in a circle). Is my line of thinking correct?
If it does need to be alternating, then I'll leave everything as is, delete the present jumpers, and just re-jumper. I heard some 4 stage clips, and it does a mean Univibe, so I would like to maximize the units flexibility.
If you add the 4/8 switch you'll be taking 4 phase stages out of the audio path. It won't matter what order the LED/LDR section is in. You can still fire on all 8 LDRs.
If you look at a JFET phaser 4/8 switch circuit you'll see the phase stages that are taken "out of the loop" still have their JFETs gates connected to the LFO. Same thing applies to this circuit.
At the risk of telling you something that you may already know, you should make the last four phase sections the "4". Switch out the first four, that way you'll have the four sections that go to the feedback circuit. Here's how I configured the 4/8 switching in the Jet Phaser circuit.
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/diyuser/Jet+Phaser+with+mods.pdf.html
Good luck with your build!
I wish someone had a layout for this beast!!
I agree with Larry, I would think that the 8 x LDR's should get the same amount of light, and it wouldn't matter where they were positioned. Might be an idea to leave the legs a bit longer on the LDR's so you can adjust them in or out (or rotate) to get a reasonable match on the resistances for various currents through the series LED's. It wouldn't hurt to possibly install the LED's/LDR's first up so you can run various currents through the series LED's, and measure the resistance of each of the 8 LDR's, to try to get some sort of rough match, I'm not sure how you'll do that in pitch darkness though.
I went through pages 4 and 5 of the schem with a highlighter, and couldn't find any problems, which is good. I think just put a link across C416 and leave C414 open (page 4, at the bottom). On the schematic, the feedback network around U401/B, the IC in the upper left corner of page 4, looks unusual. It's the audio input stage and uses a non-inverting opamp with feedback to the inverting input via a parallel 390k resistor and 100n cap. Never seen that before. Someone here may know the theory behind it though.
I'll try to get through pages 2 and 3 tonight or early tomorrow. One suggestion, if its not too late, is running separate grounds for the audio and LFO stages, i.e. one ground wire from the power supply board to go with the +/-15VA rails to feed the U400/U500 audio opamps, and another separate ground wire to go with the +/-15V rails to feed the U200/U300 LFO/LED driver opamps. This would keep help keep all the LED current and associated voltage transients separate from the audio opamp power rails. It may not make any difference, but is probably good practice, so if you've already prepared the vero, don't worry about it. I guess the main concern would be the 4 x LED's shining on the LDR's, sharing the same ground as the audio op-amps. But, its all just speculation until the circuit gets powered up.
It's all looking good Dino.
Ian, thanks a bunch for riding shotgun with me on this one. Another pair of eyes is great on something this big.
QuoteMight be an idea to leave the legs a bit longer on the LDR's so you can adjust them in or out (or rotate) to get a reasonable match
Yeah, learned that from the Talking Pedal project. Noted.
QuoteI think just put a link across C416 and leave C414 open (page 4, at the bottom).
Yup, that`s the plan for now.
QuoteIt's the audio input stage and uses a non-inverting opamp with feedback to the inverting input via a parallel 390k resistor and 100n cap.
Could it be to make it more «guitar friendly»? :icon_rolleyes:
QuoteOne suggestion, if its not too late, is running separate grounds for the audio and LFO stages,
Not too late. No vero cut yet. How does taking a wire from one side of the power board, along with the 15V`s, and another from the other end with the 15VA`s sound? I`ll seperate out the grounds on the main board then. I`m wondering if it will really make a difference though, since all grounds are shown coming from the same source (star) in the schematic. Food for thought.
I looked at the vero last night, and at worst, I could remove the feed jumpers from the op amps to the LDR`s, and reroute in an alternating fashion if I find that the 4 stage doesn`t blow my skirt up.
Inventory and parts ordering tonight. Cutting and prepping the veros on the weekend.
armdnrdy - thanks a bunch for the info. Just what this noob needs brother, much appreciated. All duly noted.
Great job! I'll be watching this one for sure!
Quote from: digi2t on January 03, 2013, 12:16:18 PMHow does taking a wire from one side of the power board, along with the 15V`s, and another from the other end with the 15VA`s sound? I`ll seperate out the grounds on the main board then. I`m wondering if it will really make a difference though, since all grounds are shown coming from the same source (star) in the schematic. Food for thought.
That sounds good. I think separate grounds are implied on the power supply schematic (now that I look more closely) by the two ground symbols at the "star ground point" being an inverted triangle and a traditional ground symbol. The triangle is used for the audio circuits (pages 4 and 5), and the traditional ground symbol is used on the the LFO circuits (page 2 and 3).
Whether it will make any difference or not, is anyone's guess...you'd have to build it and see :)
I can't find any errors on page 2 or 3 either. Looks like you've done a very good job (or I've done a bad one!) That is zero errors found, remarkable!
Nearly forgot, there is trace cut under R327 near the 2N3904 tranny. Very hard to see, and easy to overlook when you do all the trace cuts.
I would have to agree with Ian. There are two separate ground paths.
Just because they end up at the same place (star ground) doesn't mean you can run one ground for all. If you look how analog and digital grounds are run, they are kept separate and then joined at the ground input/power filtering point.
The same type of stategy would apply here. Since the two grounds are separating the LFO section from the "Phase" and "Audio" sections, I would run the grounds as per schematic to ensure that you don't have issues later. (This separation of grounds was taken directly from the Bi Phase schematic.)
You don't want to have to do this build twice! ;)
OK guys, I always try to be a "measure twice, cut once" kind of guy, and I agree with the seperate grounds. I'll take one ground off one side of the power board, and the other off the other side. That'll keep things nice and neat as well. I'll have to update the vero to reflect the different grounds.
QuoteNearly forgot, there is trace cut under R327 near the 2N3904 tranny. Very hard to see, and easy to overlook when you do all the trace cuts.
Noted. I moved the trace to the right one hole, so it's more visible now. Besides, it's in line with other cuts nearby now, which is a tactic that I always try to employ. It makes marking the cuts on the vero a bit easier.
QuoteI can't find any errors on page 2 or 3 either. Looks like you've done a very good job (or I've done a bad one!) That is zero errors found, remarkable!
Phttt! Easy with the compliments there buddy. It took 6 tracings/correction runs to get to here. This is my toughest vero to date. I thought the Honey Fuzz was something, but this one has more twists and turns than a Chinese dragon. Oh yeah, make that 7 counting the grounds redraw.
One day, when I really lose my mind, I'll probably crank out a Ludwig vero. When that day comes, someone PLEASE come and put me out of my misery. :icon_lol:
EDIT: Veros have been updated to reflect seperate grounds, and the moved cut. Hopefully I didn't botch something else in the process! :icon_mrgreen: Enclosure and parts ordered. Houston, we have ignition....
Here's the vero with the 4/8 stage selector switch;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/Mainboardvero_4stage.jpg)
I've tapped it in as per armdnrdy's recommendation, lifted from the Jet Phaser schematic.
DAMN I CAN'T WAIT FOR MY PARTS TO GET HERE!!!!! :icon_twisted:
Alrighty... an update!
I had to redraw the power board. I goofed on the cap dimensions, and the original draw was too small. Here is the new power board;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/Powerboardvero.jpg)
Here are the my boards so far. No particular meaning to the color of the jumpers, it's just that we've got miles of telephone wire at work, so why use my good multi-strand;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3268.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3269.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3270.jpg)
There's 151 cuts, and 85 jumpers on the main board alone.
Yeah....
OK, back to work.
You're not done yet!!! ;D
Looks good!!
Looks like power board rev 3 got built ;) nice work, I guess the parts have arrived...
Quote from: Ronan on January 14, 2013, 05:36:11 AM
Looks like power board rev 3 got built ;) nice work, I guess the parts have arrived...
Some, not all. Regulators (amoung others) are still MIA. Going to start sorting through my LDR's next, match up 8 of them.
OK, more pics of the populated boards. Main board;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3277.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3272.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3275.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3273.jpg)
and the power board;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3276.jpg)
The latest version has the center and range trimmers as pots on the outside, so I might do the same, I'll decide when I get there. There's also an LFO rate mod, that speeds it up for pseudo ring-mod type sounds. Again, a possible addition later.
I have all the pots, and switches, just the enclosure is MIA right now. :icon_evil:
COOL! I started building one of these on perf a decade or so ago. I got the power supply done and immediately used it for something else. I always wanted one of these...thanks for reviving this circuit!
Pure pedal porn
(http://blogassets.catchmyparty-cdn.com/wp-content/uploads/2011/02/amazed.jpg)
Yeah, what he said.
I checked the 4/8 stage switching, and after de-confusing myself, I think its correct :) The LED's and LDR's look like a million dollars, nice job, reminiscent of Stonehenge or similar? Yep, definitely looks like some kind of sacred site...
Quotereminiscent of Stonehenge or similar
HA! I never thought about that. Thanks for the visual. It was a bit of a pain to get the LDR's just so, because as you had previously pointed out I may need some wiggle room to adjust them. I'm hoping that having sifted through them, and choosing a matched set, will help.
QuoteI checked the 4/8 stage switching, and after de-confusing myself, I think its correct
Yeah, I appreciate you having a look at it as well. It took me several double takes before it looked good to me. Guess I'll know for sure when...
I did add two jumpers though. They're there for the input and output coax shields. They're the two green wires (left side, and bottom of board). I found that it's easier to shield to the board between the board and the switch, and shield to the jacks between them and the switch. That way I don't have any funky connections going on at the switch. This involved adding two more cuts as well.
Quick update...
Loads of ticking going on. Lots of signals jumping around, especially from the LM3914 side of things, it's a real zipper.
Plan B, I'm taking a cue from the Tau Pipe Phaser, and going to replace all the wiring with shielded cable. The cross-talk is just crazy. Just placing a wire in my closed hand makes a difference.
On the other hand, everything seems to work. All the ticking aside, this is one balls to wall phaser. Being able to spike or dip just one section of the sweep, or just reshapethe wave, is just nuts.
I'm hoping the shielded cable does the trick. I hope. :icon_rolleyes:
In the meantime (while I'm waiting for my cable to arrive), I've managed to track down all the IC's for the "Japanese Micro Guitar Synthesizer". Yes, I even found some TA7125P's, although they might be fakes. Won't know till I try them. The Kustom amp fuzz has been cleared off the breadboard.
I know it sounds stupid, but double-check your input socket and output socket grounds, I made that mistake recently, caused lots of noise. (Best to check it with a DMM rather than visually.)
If you get bored waiting for the shielded cable, try running the ground for the four Stonehenge LED's to digital ground instead of analog ground. I think that was the only ground that didn't get seperated in the big digital gnd/analog gnd split that you did early on in the project. You could do a temp mod with a flying ground wire...just a thought, don't really know if it will help much, but worth a try...
Hey, glad you got it running! Huge project, glad you like the sound too!
Ahh Ian... I ALWAYS appreciate it's when your eyes chirp in. Effectively, Stonehenge was on the wrong ground. I also found that my 1uF cap was soldered in a row short of the Smooth 3 strip, which gave me no smoothing at all! That fixed, the zippering disappears when you dial in some Smoothing. All that's left is the LFO tick. I'm going over all my grounds again, making sure that Vgnd and VAgnd are all separated.
Sounding better already.
A big fat THANKS!!!
SUCCESS!!!!
Completely tick free!! Fixed my grounds, and the LFO tick was coming from the square wave trimmer, the side that also branches to the rate pot. A 10uF cap from the trimmer to the Vgnd strip, and BINGO!, completely tick free.
No zippering, no tick, just pure unadulterated whacko phasing.
YEAH!! God I'm pumped! I just ran through the house screaming. Scared the crap outta the dog. :icon_lol:
Video coming... :icon_twisted:
Bravo! Quite a build
Thanks man. Yeah, it's epic! Never thought I would pull it off. Here are some teaser shots, before I do the video tomorrow morning.
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3278_zps00b82490.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3279_zps5b505221.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/DSCF3282_zpsc618ea96.jpg)
The three footswitches from left to right are; Rate doubler, Bypass, 4 or 8 stages.
I had to do the final LDR tweaking in the dark. That's where a DMM with a backlit display pays off. I love my DMM! Just finished scoping it, the waveforms are dialed in, and the sweep is set even. It sounds awesome!
Quote from: digi2t on February 11, 2013, 03:59:51 PM
I just ran through the house screaming. Scared the crap outta the dog. :icon_lol:
That's great news Dino!!! Well not about scaring the dog, that is funny though. Well done! Fantastic build!
Here are the updated vero, and BOM;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/Mainboardvero_4stage_2_zps553d0e0e.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/VeroBOM_zpsb3e60821.jpg)
The changes are as follows; Addition of C999, a 10uF deticking cap. R328 was relocated, and there's now a fly wire to Vgnd on the solder side of the board. Moved one cut. Here is a clearer shot of the cuts;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/Mainboardcuts_zps40a6a27c.jpg)
The ground fly wire for the LED's is on the underside because I didn't want the wire to tangle with the LDR's. Maybe if I have some time in the future, I'll mod the vero, shift some components around, and eliminate the fly wire. In the meantime, it is what it is.
VR218 is the phase centering trimmer. I decided to put this as an external control. Once I had my center on the scope, I set my pot knob indicator line to noon. I can throw the center off now, creating more havoc. I know that setting the pointer to noon brings me back to center.
Setting the LDR's was a bit tedious, since I had to do this in the dark. Like I mentioned before, a backlit DMM is choice. I set the Range to minimum, the depth to max, CV-mix to STEP, and max out the middle waveform pot. This holds Stonehenge lit, without having to worry about the LFO. I then went around measuring the LDR resistances, nudging them as required, to get an even reading all around. I didn't go batshit crazy on the precision, all within 1K of each other was good enough for me. I think it was Ian that had mentioned leaving some lead on the LDR's, to be able to move them around a bit. A superb call. The way you see them mounted in the pics, I had more than ample "tweakability" on tap to get them to sit just right for Mr. DMM.
Setting the trimmers for the square, triangle, and LM3914 center can be set by eye/ear, though it's tedious, and you have to understand what you're looking for. You can use the 9 LED's of the waveform adjustment pots as a guide. The way the LED's dance around, and listening to an input signal, give you a fairly good idea of what needs to be tweaked how. I initially set mine up freehand, but scoped it last night to tighten things up. If you have a scope, by golly, use it! Freehand is OK. Scoped, it sounds better.
I haven't listed all the pots on the BOM. I decided that I'll compile everything into a pdf instead, and stick the work into my gallery when it's done. In the meantime, use the schematic to inventory the pots.
Without further ado, break out the popcorn, it's video time! I know the video is on the long side, but there's just so much going on with this thing. I've done my best to demo it's capabilities.
beautiful Dino! inspiring
PS nice enclosure!
Can't see the video here at work BUT.....
PCB.... PCB..... PCB.... Gots to be gettin' a PCB layout for this!
YES I KNOW! I should create one myself! But I am terrible at it :icon_redface:
I'll be waiting :icon_twisted:
Bro... I've never drawn a PCB in my life!! I wouldn't know where to start. Personally I would have loved a PCB of this to work with instead, but there just isn't enough cards in my deck to make that happen. But, at least the schematic is verified now, so if someone whats to pick up the torch and whip up a PCB, may the Force be with you!
Honestly, I find it a worthwhile build, despite it's size. It's got a lot of horse power under the hood. I'm glad I built it.
I'm going to introduce it to 'Cuz Lewdvig tonight. :icon_twisted:
I'm lost for words, that's an amazing bit of kit, nice work.
Damn this is a humbling thread :o Crazy good job man :)
QuoteI'm lost for words, that's an amazing bit of kit, nice work
Thank you Sir.
I'm still weeding out some very minor noise issues, but it seems that shielded cable does the job nicely. It's not that noisey per se, but I'm nitpicking. I'm just going through it again, with the amp cranked, to try and pin piont any stray signals. The worst culprits for noise are the two lines feeding the Blend pot, especially the dry side, it's a real antenna. I've already swapped out the wet side for a coax, I'm going to do the same for the dry. Nice thing is that the center pole is ground, so I can solder my shields there.
Lots of signals flying around in there, so besides keeping the wiring in check, there will have to be some wires that will need to be shielded. I'll report which ones, once the dust settles.
Quote
Damn this is a humbling thread :o Crazy good job man :)
No worries dude. Every day that I check through this forum, I'm humbled. I would have never pulled this off if it wasn't for the tons of info, and all the fine folks, in this forum. Thanks brother!
OK, I've gone trhough it, and I've found that for max noise suppression, the wires for the Resonance, Blend, and CV-Mix pots should be shielded. They are the most prone to pick up any stray signals flying around in the box. The Blend pot is easy, the center pole is ground, so the shields for the wires on either side can go there. The Resonance pot is the same, one of the pot poles is ground, so both shields there. The CV-Mix pot is different, you have to bring all the shields to the board. Two wires are on the same side, and very close together, so I soldered the sields together to a small jumper, and plugged into a ground line on the board. Same deal for the third wire, on the other side of the board, small jumper to ground for the shield.
The only tick I have left is when I crank the Blend knob to DRY. It's faint, and I have to really crank the amp for it to be noticable. It disappears at 100% WET. I might poke around a bit more to see if I can mute it, but it really doesn't bother me that much.
Another thought; Light from the backside of all those LED's flashing around inside the box affecting the LDR's. For the step LED's, I cut a strip of opaque black plastic, and laid it over top of the row. For the footswitch LED's, I applied black nail polish to the backside of each LED. 4 or 5 coats does the trick. This keeps the back lights for the LED's from possibly corrupting the LDR's.
So far the most surprising thing is that lack of an output volume, hasn't really bothered me. Generally, I always install at least an output pot, just so I can keep things balanced in a chain. I've noticed that there is a 1M resistor to ground at the end of the audio line, I may just make that a pot to ground instead.
Back to fiddling...
You should do an all-vero modular sometime Dino. Or am I years late with that suggestion? :D
Quote from: garcho on February 13, 2013, 01:50:42 PM
You should do an all-vero modular sometime Dino. Or am I years late with that suggestion? :D
Do you mean separate up the component, i.e. LFO on one board, audio on another, etc? I've thought about it. It would certainly eliminate any possible crosstalk from the board itself. I tried really hard to divi up the real estate on my vero though. That's why I laid out three parts on the main board, and I tried to keep any jumpers from crossing territories the best I could. Mounting the LED driver on a daughterboard was partially to save space, but I was afraid that it's output would cause popping if it was too close to the audio.
One thing for sure, this sucker was one big fat lesson on grounding. It's the first time I've had to deal with "technical (or digital) ground". I really had to pay attention to what's going where.
i meant modular synths! start cramming things into euroracks :) certainly wasn't giving any advice
Quote from: garcho on February 13, 2013, 04:12:25 PM
i meant modular synths! start cramming things into euroracks :) certainly wasn't giving any advice
DOAH!!
DUH!!
(forehead palm smack!)
:icon_mrgreen:
It's probably going to end up sitting on top of this;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/DSCF3166.jpg)
Yup... probably gonna give it a place in the Penthouse. :icon_lol:
Having had a week to bake my brain in the hot Dominican sun, I finally worked out the last ticking kink. The unit is now much more "tick free", especially on the dry side, than before. Although it wasn't that bad before, I can now crank the amp to an insane level, and just barely hear the LFO at full dry. I figure I've reduced it by about 75%, over what you saw in the video. I've been testing with my Ampeg G-212 (120W), an amp where anything over 5 on the volume is equivilant to killing a mouse with a nuclear bomb. "Insane level" = 7, or higher.
I realized that having the Rate 1 wire and strip running near, and under, a section of the audio part of the board was probably "a bad thing". So I added another jumper, and a couple of cuts to completely isolate the LFO noise from the audio section. I also moved, and boosted C999 to 22uF. As the guy on Silent Library says, "SILENCE!".
The wires from the board to the following pots MUST be shielded for the best results (not including the ground wires for the Resonance and Blend pots); Resonance 2 & 3, Blend 1 & 3, and all CV Mix wires.
CV Mix shields are soldered to the board, AND ALL SHIELDS SHOULD BE SOLDERED TO THE SAME SIDE OF THE BOARD, as shown in the vero. This will prevent any chance of any LFO noise from entering the steps when you're in max STEP mode. Don't be tempted to ground CV Mix 1 & 2 shields to that side of the board, or else you'll be looking for trouble. Run a jumper wire across to the CV Mix 3 wire side. Blend/Resonance shields use the ground pole of their respective pots.
ALL Input and Output wiring should be shielded as well! The unit is dead quiet now, and a real joy to play with.
I've updated all the veros in this thread, and I'll put together a PDF soon in the Gallery, with all the info. Here are the updated veros;
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/Mainboardvero_4stage_2_zps25393059.jpg)
Updated cuts highlight. THE 9 CUTS FOR THE LED DRIVER BOARD UNDER THE LM3914 (U301) ARE NOT ON THE MAIN BOARD!
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/Mainboardcuts_zps2a550eb5.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/Powerboardvero.jpg)
(http://i214.photobucket.com/albums/cc196/digi2t/Infinitphase/VeroBOM_zps0265df60.jpg)
Again, an epic build, but the payout is worth the effort. Now can SOMEONE please draw up a PCB for Greg!! :icon_lol:
Quote from: digi2t on February 22, 2013, 03:36:50 PM
Now can SOMEONE please draw up a PCB for Greg!! :icon_lol:
;D :o :icon_cool:
Maybe someone is already in work on the PCB for the next COMPETITION ;)
Speaking of which.... :-X
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on February 22, 2013, 04:35:53 PM
Quote from: digi2t on February 22, 2013, 03:36:50 PM
Now can SOMEONE please draw up a PCB for Greg!! :icon_lol:
;D :o :icon_cool:
Maybe someone is already in work on the PCB for the next COMPETITION ;)
Speaking of which.... :-X
:icon_surprised: :o
Cant wait!
why not build that thing in a rack chassis? I mean, besides paying 50 bucks and having to drill steel... ::)
EDIT: not that I dislike your pedal enclosure, on the contrary, I think it looks fabulous
Quote from: garcho on February 23, 2013, 02:05:23 PM
why not build that thing in a rack chassis? I mean, besides paying 50 bucks and having to drill steel... ::)
EDIT: not that I dislike your pedal enclosure, on the contrary, I think it looks fabulous
Yeah Gary, you're right, it would totally work in a 1U rack as well. Not only that, but with a MIDI card from Highly Liquid, it would be real easy to MIDIfy some of the functions as well. But, for my use, I prefered to be able to put it down on the floor as well. That's why I added the footswitches for the 4/8 stage, and Rate speed.
OK, build doc is done. You can get it here;
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48753&g2_GALLERYSID=0aeebe7cd1fb71927bdc09d18e7b17e7 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48753&g2_GALLERYSID=0aeebe7cd1fb71927bdc09d18e7b17e7)
If anyone needs more info, you know where to find me.
Beautiful project documentation!
Great job!
Sorry folks, I realized last night that I had no info on tuning in the doc. I've updated it, and it's available here;
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48757&g2_GALLERYSID=388d68c3a4016869a255cebd611500c9 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48757&g2_GALLERYSID=388d68c3a4016869a255cebd611500c9)
I hope my explinations on tuning are adequate. If anyone has comments or concerns, just hollar.
I have a concern dear sir...
Can you lay off the awesome and incredibly complex projects? ::)
Can a brother get a simple booster or OD or something? ;D
Stay thirsty my friend!
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on February 26, 2013, 07:27:10 PM
I have a concern dear sir...
Can you lay off the awesome and incredibly complex projects? ::)
Can a brother get a simple booster or OD or something? ;D
Stay thirsty my friend!
I'm looking at this right now;
(http://yusynth.net/Modular/Commun/STEINERVCF/gtr-synth.jpg)
I've rounded up all the parts, and cleared out the bread board. But, I'm also searching for any gut info on the Schumann PLL, or the Skunq Works Blackbird.
Sooooo... a boosted OD, PWM, octave multiplying/dividing, squarewaver? Sure, no prob. I'm on it. :icon_mrgreen:
you're in your infinite vero phase ::)
Quote from: digi2t on February 26, 2013, 10:33:48 PM
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on February 26, 2013, 07:27:10 PM
I have a concern dear sir...
Can you lay off the awesome and incredibly complex projects? ::)
Can a brother get a simple booster or OD or something? ;D
Stay thirsty my friend!
I'm looking at this right now;
(http://yusynth.net/Modular/Commun/STEINERVCF/gtr-synth.jpg)
I've rounded up all the parts, and cleared out the bread board. But, I'm also searching for any gut info on the Schumann PLL, or the Skunq Works Blackbird.
Sooooo... a boosted OD, PWM, octave multiplying/dividing, squarewaver? Sure, no prob. I'm on it. :icon_mrgreen:
Vero layout yes please!
Dino, I'm so glad it turned out well, huge project, done well. Remarkably well, the photos are really nice to look at.
If its any consolation all but one of the pots on my recent Tau flanger/phaser pcb got wired backwards too! WTF?
The only one I got right was the output volume ;D
Quote from: digi2t on February 26, 2013, 10:33:48 PM
I'm looking at this right now;
(http://yusynth.net/Modular/Commun/STEINERVCF/gtr-synth.jpg)
Sooooo... a boosted OD, PWM, octave multiplying/dividing, squarewaver? Sure, no prob. I'm on it. :icon_mrgreen:
So what you are saying is that we should be seeing this in the "Hen's Tooth Cafe" this evening? :D
Quote from: Ronan on February 27, 2013, 04:22:44 AM
Dino, I'm so glad it turned out well, huge project, done well. Remarkably well, the photos are really nice to look at.
If its any consolation all but one of the pots on my recent Tau flanger/phaser pcb got wired backwards too! WTF?
The only one I got right was the output volume ;D
Thanks Ian. It a shame that there's no hard and fast drawing convention on wiring pots from a schematic, but R.G. post on a related thread a few days ago was on the money. Personally, I'm sure if I had taken more time to think about it, I may have avoided said error.
Speaking of things backwards...
I picked this tidbit out of the manual yesterday;
QuoteLocate the very right-most PHASE DEPTH control (you should be able to see the associated LED slowing (read: glowing) very dimly) - experiment with turning this control, and note that it adjusts the depth for all the other PHASE DEPTH controls.
The end most LED on
my unit does indeed glow dimly (tough to see in bright light, but it does), except its the
LEFT one. Basically, I have the sequence of LED's 1 through 9 backwards vis-a-vis the original. Quite honestly, no big deal, and in the end, I'm happy for the "mistake". When the LED's sweep, it simply means that the high end of the phase sweep in on the right, and the low is on the left, which to my brain is more comfortable to read when looking at the unit. This is opposite of the original unit, which by studying a Youtube video of the original, I know it to be fact now. In the end, it can be left up to the builder which way he/she wishes to run the LED sequence. It doesn't affect the operation of the unit at all.
QuoteSo what you are saying is that we should be seeing this in the "Hen's Tooth Cafe" this evening?
Like OMG!!! You are like, suuuuch a task master. Tell you what,
1) The difficult stuff was done yesterday.
2) The impossible, I'm in the process of doing. But for God's sake man,
3) Miracles require 24 hours notice!
:D
In your search for info on the Infinitphase build have you ever come across a trace side photo?
Quote from: armdnrdy on February 27, 2013, 10:34:13 AM
In your search for info on the Infinitphase build have you ever come across a trace side photo?
Negative. Would have been too nice though. I imagine it would be quite a task to reverse trace the PCB using the schematic, and the top shots from the net. Close inspection of pictures reveals that the LED driver, step pots, and step LED's are a separate board linked by jumpers.
Both boards are double sided.
Thanks for the reply.
Well...at least there are pictures of the top side!
It looks like the original component layout is organized enough to where if one were to layout the parts according to the image, much of the trace side routing should fall into place.
I routed the ADA Final Phase with just the top component layout. It's do able.
Maybe when I get a few projects out of the way, I'll give this a shot!
You go Larry! You go!!
Pretty sure Greg would bake you up a nice bunt cake for a PCB board. :icon_lol:
Men don't "bake" cakes.....we build them! ;D
Quote from: digi2t on February 27, 2013, 08:01:48 AM
QuoteLocate the very right-most PHASE DEPTH control (you should be able to see the associated LED slowing (read: glowing) very dimly) - experiment with turning this control, and note that it adjusts the depth for all the other PHASE DEPTH controls.
The end most LED on my unit does indeed glow dimly (tough to see in bright light, but it does), except its the LEFT one.
Which pin is your left most LED connected to, pin 1 or pin 11 of the LM3914?
Does the pot for your left most LED
actually change the depth of all the other depth controls?
I'm doing my head in trying to work that out/understand it. Since the LM3914 is wired in dot mode, that left most LED would only have voltage across it when the sweep is at its lowest, I think, therefore, the effect of the pot would be no greater than any other pot as far as I can see. So, I don't understand, its like a puzzle I am keen to solve :) hence the questions...
I do agree though, I would have the low end of the sweep on the left and the high end on the right, seems intuitive to me. Why would they do it back-to-front? Very clever design though. It's really out there, very unusual/different. The amount of imagination required to even think of doing a phaser like this amazes me.
Hey Ian,
If you look at my vero, specifically the LED driver board, you'll see that I have the LED wires numbered from 1 to 9. When looking at the unit controls from the outside, wire 1 (pin 1) is on the left most pot on my unit. This is opposite to the original, but like I said before, I like it better this way. It'doesn't affect the operation of the unit. You can either have the wave traveling from left to right, or vice versa, however you wish.
Yes, pot 1 (pin 1) does uniformly affect the depth of all the steps. I added another label to the unit, marking this pot as "CV step Depth".
I've taken another look at the datasheet, so I'll take a nooby shot at maybe understanding how/why this works; Maybe since it's operating in dot mode (like a meter display), the #1 LED has just enough current to keep the LED dimmly lit, but since it's first in the chain, increasing or decreasing the resistance of that pot will either raise or sink the current of all the other controls downstream feeding it's half of U202, and ultimately the LFO. After all, this whole section does control Stonehenge in the end, flashing the four 2x5mm in accordance to how much current (or voltage?) each step pot is allowed to feed the 2N3904 transistor. #1 just raises or sinks the current for all the others. Looking at page 8 of the TI datasheet (showing simplest application), seems to me that playing with #1 current would affect all the others downstream, no?
Anyhow, that's the way I understand it, in my little brain. I would really appreciate it if someone could give me the "brass tacks" on the why and how though. That would be cool, for my own interest.
And yes.... it's pure genius. Or, insanity. The line is really thin. :icon_mrgreen:
Thanks for that Dino, I think you're definitely on the right track there. The biasing of the power supplies (the zener diodes in the +15V and -15V rails) in relation to ground is also doing something different, as well as feeding the anodes of the diodes from ground. I think I would have to breadboard it to find out exactly whats going on. It is a really cool application of an LM3914, genius or insanity? I would lean towards the former :)
Heads up folks...
I had to remove the schematic and user manual from the gallery, and my document. The folks over at Prophesysound are nice enough to make both available to the public via their website. They're at the bottom of this page; http://prophecysound.com/products/infinitphase-mkii (http://prophecysound.com/products/infinitphase-mkii) . The build document is still available, but without the aforementioned material.
Please refer to their website for the schematic and manual in the future. I wish to thank them as well, for not squelching the DIY spirit. It's mighty slick of them to hand out the schematic like that. They get my 3 thumbs up!
Hey dino, great job on that build, looks awesome and a major achievement at that. Im thinking of having a bash at it at some point this year. Ive seen the pic but the link on your earlier posts dont lead to the build doc, any chance you could re post it? Also, how important is it to have a scope for doing the trimmers, can it be done by ear?
thanks
Also, where did you get those handles on the enclosure from. Are they special ones for purpose or just some generic ones you would use on a chest of drawers?
Thanks for the compliment.
For the link, I`m at work right now, and I can`t access the gallery from here. If you go to the links at the top of the forum page, click on «Layouts Gallery». This will take you to the gallery. Go down the directory on the right hand side to «Dinos Stuff», and click on that. In that folder, there are two albums, «Veros», and «Information Files». Hunt around in there, and you`ll find all the vero info and build doc. The schematic, and manual, are available at prophecysound.com on their Infinitphase page.
As for needing a scope, it all depends on how fine your hearing is. One of my first builds was the Gristleizer, and when it came time to tune the LFO, I thought I was OK. At some point I decided to treat myself to a USB oscilloscope, and when I hooked it up, I found I was way off. I found that I was somewhat triangle deaf. Lesson: Oscilloscope rules.
The handles are from Home Depot. Drawer handles, brushed aluminium, 3.5 inch centers, if I remember correctly. I think the holes on the flanges are 3.5 inch centers as well. They fit spot on.
I don`t believe anyone has tried the build from my doc, so please feel free to PM me if you don`t understand something, or if what I`ve written is not correct. I`ll make the necessary corrections. After all, what I hear in my head, doesn`t always resonate in someone elses. ;D
I've largely ignored this circuit, but looking at the schematic, one of the things that stands out is the use of 270k resistors in parallel with the LDRs. What that suggests is that the unit is capable of a very wide range of sweep, since the LDRs can be pushed to have a VERY low resistance.
What that also gets me to thinking about is whether it makes sense to play around with the values of the (normally) 22k resistors in parallel with the JFETs in a Phase 90. In theory, increasing them permits for a broader range of potential resistance change, and a wider sweep. I know the width of sweep can be monkeyed with by varying the value of the 3M3 (sometimes 3M9) resistor coming off the LFO.
I may just play around with this over the next week. Narrow sweeps are good too, particularly when you want them fast. But ultra-wide sweeps are a thing of beauty too. Remember that the P90 was designed as a one-knobber, such that sweep range/width was chosen to be pleasing no matter where you set the speed knob; i.e., a compromise. Chances are very good there is a lot more width capability in there.
Now back to the Infinitephase, already in progress.
Quote from: digi2t on July 08, 2013, 12:15:10 PM
Thanks for the compliment.
For the link, I`m at work right now, and I can`t access the gallery from here. If you go to the links at the top of the forum page, click on «Layouts Gallery». This will take you to the gallery. Go down the directory on the right hand side to «Dinos Stuff», and click on that. In that folder, there are two albums, «Veros», and «Information Files». Hunt around in there, and you`ll find all the vero info and build doc. The schematic, and manual, are available at prophecysound.com on their Infinitphase page.
As for needing a scope, it all depends on how fine your hearing is. One of my first builds was the Gristleizer, and when it came time to tune the LFO, I thought I was OK. At some point I decided to treat myself to a USB oscilloscope, and when I hooked it up, I found I was way off. I found that I was somewhat triangle deaf. Lesson: Oscilloscope rules.
The handles are from Home Depot. Drawer handles, brushed aluminium, 3.5 inch centers, if I remember correctly. I think the holes on the flanges are 3.5 inch centers as well. They fit spot on.
I don`t believe anyone has tried the build from my doc, so please feel free to PM me if you don`t understand something, or if what I`ve written is not correct. I`ll make the necessary corrections. After all, what I hear in my head, doesn`t always resonate in someone elses. ;D
Thanks for the prompt reply Dino. Ive started getting the tayda basket ready. Im sure that you'll get a pm from me somewhere along the way.
Cheers
Here's the right link for the build doc;
http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48770 (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48770)
The previously posted link is broken, since I had to update the document.
Internal server error on that link.
Quote from: ch1naski on July 09, 2013, 10:50:11 AM
Internal server error on that link.
Really? Oh well, it`s in my «Information Files» folder in the gallery. Use the search function, you`ll find it quick enough.
I think the gallery is down right now.
Quote from: ch1naski on July 09, 2013, 10:50:11 AM
Internal server error on that link.
Link works fine for me. Might be worth trying again
27MB! might take a while.
Gosh, it was july when I posted here saying I was going to build this...
Heres my progress so far. I was delayed as I completely procrastinated the task of doing the 88 jumpers and started building the no name flange instead. Anyway, back on track and heres what Ive done so far...
(http://img843.imageshack.us/img843/2264/0cu3.jpg) (http://img843.imageshack.us/i/0cu3.jpg/)
(http://img27.imageshack.us/img27/7360/6qw9.jpg) (http://img27.imageshack.us/i/6qw9.jpg/)
I have a few questions, I'll make a list and post them up soon. Dino, if you have any free time I'd really appreciate if you could help.
Heres a few questions, hope this makes sense...
1
The stonehenge LEDs, how bright are yours? I bought mine from bitsbox here in the UK and they are quoted as 65mcds. Is that enough?
2
The LED driver board, the holes marked 1-9, do they connect to lug 3 of the step pots 1-9 and if so, is pot1 the pot thats the furthest on the right (from looking at the underside of the enclosure?)
3
The second bus wire (i.e. the first bus wire being the one that connects to lug 1 of the step pots), is there a 100k resistor wrapped in heat shrink connecting the centre lug of the step pots to the second bus wire?
4
Does it matter which ground I connect the first bus wire to?
5
Ive never made a pedal running on AC. Do I still use the same boss 2.1mm jack that we use for 9v pedals. Im not familiar with the terminology +15v and +15VA and likewise for -15v. How should I connect these to the jack? Any chance you could explain or signpost me to some appropriate reading?
6
The LED driver board, at the bottom on either side theres 2 jumpers connecting it to the main board, marked as 2 green dots on either side. I notice from the pics on your build, theres 2 on either side at the top and only 1 on either side at the bottom. How come and does it matter?
I would really appreciate it if you could help. (sorry about all the questions!)
edit, Ive just noticed that on page 38 of your document, you have labelled the pot 123 from the back instead of the usual 321, so for the purposes of the above, assume that Im referring to 3 as 1 and vice versa.
By the way, the decal on the box looks a bit pink/red because I had left it in the garage waiting for the lacquer to dry and was spraying another box with neon orange at the same time... Doh! ;D
HOLY SMOKES!!! THAT ENCLOSURE LOOKS SMASHING!!! :icon_eek:
OK, down to brass tacks...
QuoteThe stonehenge LEDs, how bright are yours? I bought mine from bitsbox here in the UK and they are quoted as 65mcds. Is that enough?
These are the ones that I used; http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-x-LED-Red-Diffused-Rectangular-2x5-mm-/400178334045?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:3160 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/20-x-LED-Red-Diffused-Rectangular-2x5-mm-/400178334045?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:CA:3160)
As you can see from the specs stated, they only claim an mcd of 1.5. Yours might be too bright. You might be able to compensate by increasing R328 though, to dim them. Just remember to install the LDR's with some room to move them around. You'll need to fine tune this later.
QuoteThe LED driver board, the holes marked 1-9, do they connect to lug 3 of the step pots 1-9 and if so, is pot1 the pot thats the furthest on the right (from looking at the underside of the enclosure?)
Good question. Yes they do. I made a mistake when I wired my pots, and I wired #1 to the rightmost pot looking from the bottom. This is backwards, since according to the manual, the CV pot for the steps should be the rightmost. So, if you want it to act as per the manual,
#1 wire should connect to the rightmost pot looking from the bottom (lugs facing towards you).QuoteThe second bus wire (i.e. the first bus wire being the one that connects to lug 1 of the step pots), is there a 100k resistor wrapped in heat shrink connecting the centre lug of the step pots to the second bus wire?
Correct. Saves on board size, and wiring. It's also indicated in the build doc picture.
QuoteDoes it matter which ground I connect the first bus wire to?
Every ground connection is important in this project. There are two different ground symbols in this project;
Earth ground;
(http://www.decodeunicode.org/en/data/glyph/196x196/23DA.gif)
and Signal ground;
(http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/1/11/Signal_Ground.svg/118px-Signal_Ground.svg.png)
Do not mix the two. The Earth ground is for V voltages, and the Signal ground is for VA voltages. Do not mix V grounds to VA grounds, V voltages to VA grounds, or VA voltages to V grounds. Looking at the main board, V ground bus is on the upper right, and VA ground bus is on the lower right. The bus wire your asking about here should connect to the V ground. If you do mix grounds, you risk introducing noise into your audio path.
Look at the gutshot pictures of my completed build, you'll see that I use the V and VA GROUND strips of the vero to connect ground wires.
Pages 2, 3, 4, and 5 of the schematic, all indicate which ground belongs to V or VA power. Look at page 2 of the schematic, and look at the small section showing C202, and C203. You'll see that they are fed from the V output of the power supply, and Earth ground is indicated in the middle. Be sure to look over the schematic thoroughly, and note what's powering or grounding what.
QuoteIve never made a pedal running on AC. Do I still use the same boss 2.1mm jack that we use for 9v pedals. Im not familiar with the terminology +15v and +15VA and likewise for -15v. How should I connect these to the jack? Any chance you could explain or signpost me to some appropriate reading?
The 2.1mm jack works fine. AC has no polarity, so how you connect the AC wires to the power supply board doesn't matter.
DO NOT USE A DC POWER SUPPLY TO POWER THER UNIT! THE POWER SUPPLY SHOULD PROVIDE 16VAC, 750mA. AC voltage powers the power supply board, and it converts the AC to DC. As for the VA, and V voltages, please consult the schematic. These are DC voltages, created by the two voltage regulators (remember, AC in, DC out). Referencing to Ground (in the middle), one regulator provides positive voltage, and the other, negative voltage. You'll see that the VA voltages are tapped before the diodes D107 / D108, and the V voltages after. Again, make sure to go through the schematic, and ensure that you know which is going where. The vero has been laid out to respect this.
QuoteThe LED driver board, at the bottom on either side theres 2 jumpers connecting it to the main board, marked as 2 green dots on either side. I notice from the pics on your build, theres 2 on either side at the top and only 1 on either side at the bottom. How come and does it matter?
Makes no difference on the bottom. I got lazy, and went with only one set of ground jumpers. If you decide to do the same, make sure to use the
lowest holes. Otherwise, the LED driver board will not have a ground. The upper green jumpers were originally placed there as extra board support, but the solid core wire proved to be stiff enough to pass on extra jumpers. You must install the two sets of jumpers on top, since one provides the positive voltage, and the other the negative voltage to the driver board.
QuoteIve just noticed that on page 38 of your document, you have labelled the pot 123 from the back instead of the usual 321, so for the purposes of the above, assume that Im referring to 3 as 1 and vice versa.
Got it. No problem.
... you guys are insane, taking on vero of this size. (Not stupid, though.) I think I'll hang out for Govt's PCB layout, though! (I love me some phaser and flangery goodness!)
Quote from: alanp on October 07, 2013, 11:32:45 AM
... you guys are insane, taking on vero of this size. (Not stupid, though.) I think I'll hang out for Govt's PCB layout, though! (I love me some phaser and flangery goodness!)
Bro.... you will be hanging a LONG time. I do not have the skillset to do a PCB of this magnitude. Even if I attempted it, I would be looking at 10X the amount of time that it would take some of these Eagle artists here :icon_rolleyes:
Dino, thanks for such a fast response. That was helpfull. Looks like ive got a lot of schematic reading to do. Ill post back again after ive made some progress.
I might have a bash at this.........
I need help. I bought a Cioks AC10 just to get power for this, and the Schumann PLL board. (Where the hell does that yank phrase "pull the trigger" come from? Swipe the EFTPOS card is more like it. (EFTPOS == electronic fund transaction at point of sale. If a shop in NZ doesnt have it, they don't have customers.))
My Infinitphase is waiting on parts, right now. Need to order the case, and some of those rectangular LEDs from Mouser. Quite looking forward to wrapping it up!
Quote from: alanp on January 01, 2014, 10:59:12 PM
I need help. I bought a Cioks AC10 just to get power for this, and the Schumann PLL board. (Where the hell does that yank phrase "pull the trigger" come from? Swipe the EFTPOS card is more like it. (EFTPOS == electronic fund transaction at point of sale. If a shop in NZ doesnt have it, they don't have customers.))
My Infinitphase is waiting on parts, right now. Need to order the case, and some of those rectangular LEDs from Mouser. Quite looking forward to wrapping it up!
"Pull the trigger"? Easy. If you've decided to shoot, then you have to "pull the trigger". It just got expanded to mean proceeding with a very serious decision, as was shooting a man. Hence, "I mulled over buying that Ibanez for months, but last week, I finally pulled the trigger.".
Who has phase? This guy does! And this guy hates vero, too. Mostly.
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/hwdeadbug_zps99b48a4a.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/hwdeadbug_zps99b48a4a.jpg.html)
It works! The insane board count is chiefly to get around Eagle's size limitation. I need to socket the LDR's and replace them with a matching set -- there is a noticeable dip in the sweep, midway. Either that or I need more bench time with my oscilloscope to tune the LFO in. The 4/8 switch is wired in, but the fast/slow switch is not, yet.
Night shot: (the rate was fast enough that the camera caught several pots during the travel....) bottom lights are the lit up pots, top constellation is the phase engine board.
The sweeping, lit up pots are very sexy.
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/hwdarkfast_zpsaac65adb.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/hwdarkfast_zpsaac65adb.jpg.html)
The LFO and phase boards need to be reworked -- there are cut traces and wire links, plus the 4/8 switch is not on the phase board (that's why the phase board had cut traces and links...)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/hwbox_zps0e4aeaa5.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/hwbox_zps0e4aeaa5.jpg.html)
(http://i163.photobucket.com/albums/t282/Gutstwohand/hwunder_zpsdb853994.jpg) (http://s163.photobucket.com/user/Gutstwohand/media/hwunder_zpsdb853994.jpg.html)
The LDR's need replacing badly (I found out the hard way that Digi2T is not kidding when he says you need to match them), and I forgot to drill the holes for the switches, so this isn't buttoned up, yet.
But it works!
I'll tidy the wiring up (shorten the runs, etc) once I've got the rest sorted. Good thing about this wiring is I can just pull all the wires going to a board, and then take the board out without desoldering.
Would love to see a MFOS Subcommander Vero (that's as large as they get,right?) - - my own attempt has been on hold for months, mainly due to frustration :)
Quote from: jishnudg on June 02, 2014, 03:00:26 AM
Would love to see a MFOS Subcommander Vero (that's as large as they get,right?) - - my own attempt has been on hold for months, mainly due to frustration :)
I think I would rather drop the 45 clams on that one. The Infinitphase vero, as with some others, was born of necessity. I don't etch, so vero was my only option. In instances where a PCB is readily available for more complex circuits, i.e. Storm Tide Flanger, Tau Pipe phaser, etc., then I'll happily put my vero cracking skills aside.
Not that I don't enjoy a good nut cracking sometimes. Doing the Infinitphase vero certainly was interesting, as was the Ludwig Phase II. Sometimes, I just can't help myself, but as 50 quickly approaches, I like to think that I'm getting a bit wiser.
Maybe.... :icon_mrgreen:
@alanp;
Looking good so far, but I'm a bit worried about the possibility of ticking. I found that the LFO signal really flies around in here when using any substantial amount of wire inside the box. That's why I spec'd shielded wire for all the in/outs, and some of the pot connections.
Yeah, I thought I had shielded wire... turns out I don't. I need to order some.
Quote from: alanp on June 02, 2014, 01:11:44 PM
Yeah, I thought I had shielded wire... turns out I don't. I need to order some.
isn't it possible to roll those yourself? read something about "Pseudo Balanced Wiring" or something like that...
@alanp - if you have an old pc monitor, cut the video cable. you get inside 3 colours of shielded wire and 4 (6?) of stranded. should do the job.
RG174/U is a fairly common shielded coax. Check to see if any local brick and mortar suppliers stock it.