Ok, I'm not really one to reverse engineer pedals but this one is too good to pass up :icon_mrgreen: Also, I can't get over the fact that NOBODY has attempted this pedal yet!?!? Soooo... I bought one just to rip apart so we can all have some fun... Well, really it's for me I'm not gonna lie :icon_lol: I have already traced the pedal but I need some help with the schematic (I really suck at making schematics) I can read them just fine but making them from a trace is another story... So, if you would like to help either post here or shoot me a PM. If not, I will go it alone :icon_sad:
Reasons why I chose this pedal;
1 - It's BRAHUUU_TAHALLLLLL!!! :icon_twisted:
2 - It has some interesting features, noise gate that tracks the gain knob, tight attack control, mid/thrash switch, pre and post fx loop that tracks the On/Off footswitch...
3 - Some of these features can probably be incorporated into other designs.. good learning!
4 - Looks like it's using very easy to get common parts.
5 - It's BRAHUUU_TAHALLLLLL!!! :icon_twisted:
If you have never heard of this here are a couple vidoes...
Here is a teaser... If anybody is interested in this then respond and I will upload my traces!?
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x2u0g6jdhtik5i4/_Sb3kXUSht (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x2u0g6jdhtik5i4/_Sb3kXUSht)
Ummmm..... yes please, upload traces ;D :icon_twisted:
Slightly off topic...
One of my few brushes with stardom was getting to know Mark Kloeppel. He is a nice guy. I tried to grill him on just about anything I could ask. I wish some of that information was helpful in this thread.
Good luck with your investigation into the pedal.
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/x2u0g6jdhtik5i4/_Sb3kXUSht
Anybody? :icon_neutral:
brave man.. :icon_eek:
I can't believe no interest here??? :o wow!
Oh well, here goes nothin. :icon_rolleyes:
No on-board pots and no silly LED light up knobs... All the rest is there!
By the way, this is NOT Verified, yet! Don't be a sissy... Check it yourself, and maybe build it if you dare! :icon_twisted:
I fully expect that this will sink into the abyss of this forum, prove me wrong... :icon_lol:
Schematic
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM%20schem%203f.png
Single sided layout with ground fill
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM1_FILL.pdf
Single sided layout without ground fill
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM1.pdf
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM1.PNG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM2.PNG)
Your ground trace forms a ground loop around the perimeter of the board. It will hum like a SOB like that. You need to break it somewhere so the current only has _one_ path it can flow.
I may not build it but I applaud your work on it. ;) Nice job.
Quote from: defaced on June 02, 2013, 10:22:48 AM
Your ground trace forms a ground loop around the perimeter of the board. It will hum like a SOB like that. You need to break it somewhere so the current only has _one_ path it can flow.
Good point!!! :icon_redface: Thanks for the heads up! :icon_mrgreen:
The pics and layouts are corrected in the original post, loop broken on far right.
Thanks to defaced for the catch!
Here is the bill of materials if needed..
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/tight%20metal%20bom.txt
looking good! Curious about the bass version now... ;P
Not my bag but it's an interesting looking design, some nice snippets in there. Nice work tracing it.
I've taken the liberty of putting together a BOM for this project:
RESISTORS
R1-1M
R2-100K
R3-470K
R4-1M
R5-47K
R6-1M
R7-470K
R8-47K
R9-1.5K
R10-1.5K
R11-22K
R12-10K
R13-10K
R14-10K
R15-470K
R16-4.7K
R17-1.5K
R18-10K
R19-3.3K
R20-3.3K
R21-3.3K
R22-330 OHM
R23-220K
R24-100K
R25-47K
R26-1K
R27-47K
R28-100K
R29-150K
R30-6.8K
R31-100K
R32-18K
R33-150K
R34-47K
R35-470 OHM
CAPACITORS
C1-470PF
C2-33NF
C3-100NF
C4-4.7NF
C5-100NF
C6-100PF
C7-33NF
C8-47NF
C9-100NF
C10-220NF
C11-100NF
C12-100NF
C13-100NF
C14-22NF
C15-100NF
C16-220NF
C17-1.2NF
C18-100NF
C19-220NF
C20-100UF ELECTRO
C21-100NF
C22-22UF ELECTRO
C23-22UF ELECTRO
C24-22UF ELECTRO
DIODES
D1-1N4148
D2-1N4007
D3-1N4148
D4-1N4733
D5-1N4148
D6-1N4148
D7-1N4733
D8-1N4007
IC'S
IC1-TL072P
IC2-TL072P
IC3-TL072P
POTS
TIGHT-B100K
GAIN-A500K
VOLUME-B10K
TONE-B10K
SWITCHES
GATE-SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLE
THRASH-SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLE
PART COUNTS
RESISTORS
(3) 1M
(4) 100K
(3) 470K
(5) 47K
(3) 1.5K
(1) 22K
(4) 10K
(1) 4.7K
(3) 3.3K
(1) 330 OHM
(1) 220K
(1) 1K
(2) 150K
(1) 6.8K
(1) 18K
(1) 47 OHM
CAPACITORS
(1) 470PF
(2) 33NF
(9) 100NF
(1) 4.7NF
(1) 100PF
(1) 47NF
(3) 220NF
(1) 22NF
(1) 1.2NF
(1) 100UF ELECTRO
(3) 22UF ELECTRO
IC'S
(3) TL072P
DIODES
(4) 1N4148
(2) 1N4007
(2) 1N4733
POTS
(1) B100K
(1) A500K
(2) B10K
SWITCHES
(2) SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLES
I wanted to make a single sided with no frills... I see you beat me to that Jok3rx... It would have taken me forever anyway since I have so little free time...
Quote from: jymaze on June 02, 2013, 02:51:54 PM
I wanted to make a single sided with no frills... I see you beat me to that Jok3rx... It would have taken me forever anyway since I have so little free time...
jymaze,
Well, mainly
YOU and bajaman did all the hard work and came up with the schematics! Many thanks!!! :icon_wink: This was a beast to draw schematics for in my opinion, very erratic jumping from one side to the other...
As for "no frills" I personally would have liked to leave off the loops but figured somebody might want them...
Quote from: pakrat on June 02, 2013, 02:19:44 PM
I've taken the liberty of putting together a BOM for this project:
RESISTORS
R1-1M
R2-100K
R3-470K
R4-1M
R5-47K
R6-1M
R7-470K
R8-47K
R9-1.5K
R10-1.5K
R11-22K
R12-10K
R13-10K
R14-10K
R15-470K
R16-4.7K
R17-1.5K
R18-10K
R19-3.3K
R20-3.3K
R21-3.3K
R22-330 OHM
R23-220K
R24-100K
R25-47K
R26-1K
R27-47K
R28-100K
R29-150K
R30-6.8K
R31-100K
R32-18K
R33-150K
R34-47K
R35-470 OHM
CAPACITORS
C1-470PF
C2-33NF
C3-100NF
C4-4.7NF
C5-100NF
C6-100PF
C7-33NF
C8-47NF
C9-100NF
C10-220NF
C11-100NF
C12-100NF
C13-100NF
C14-22NF
C15-100NF
C16-220NF
C17-1.2NF
C18-100NF
C19-220NF
C20-100UF ELECTRO
C21-100NF
C22-22UF ELECTRO
C23-22UF ELECTRO
C24-22UF ELECTRO
DIODES
D1-1N4148
D2-1N4007
D3-1N4148
D4-1N4733
D5-1N4148
D6-1N4148
D7-1N4733
D8-1N4007
IC'S
IC1-TL072P
IC2-TL072P
IC3-TL072P
POTS
TIGHT-B100K
GAIN-A500K
VOLUME-B10K
TONE-B10K
SWITCHES
GATE-SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLE
THRASH-SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLE
PART COUNTS
RESISTORS
(3) 1M
(4) 100K
(3) 470K
(5) 47K
(3) 1.5K
(1) 22K
(4) 10K
(1) 4.7K
(3) 3.3K
(1) 330 OHM
(1) 220K
(1) 1K
(2) 150K
(1) 6.8K
(1) 18K
(1) 47 OHM
CAPACITORS
(1) 470PF
(2) 33NF
(9) 100NF
(1) 4.7NF
(1) 100PF
(1) 47NF
(3) 220NF
(1) 22NF
(1) 1.2NF
(1) 100UF ELECTRO
(3) 22UF ELECTRO
IC'S
(3) TL072P
DIODES
(4) 1N4148
(2) 1N4007
(2) 1N4733
POTS
(1) B100K
(1) A500K
(2) B10K
SWITCHES
(2) SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLES
D2, D4 and D7 are 1N4733
On the schematic they are listed as Z2, Z4 and Z7
Great job by the way! :icon_wink:
Well, the schematic is verified anyway... good work jymaze and bajaman!! :icon_wink:
I don't know about my layout but I believe the schematic is 100% correct!
Bread boarded TM buy ggedamed from "the other forum" :icon_mrgreen:
There are 2 resistors missing from the BOM I poster earlier :icon_redface:
Here is the corrected version:
RESISTORS
R1-1M
R2-100K
R3-470K
R4-1M
R5-47K
R6-1M
R7-470K
R8-47K
R9-1.5K
R10-1.5K
R11-22K
R12-10K
R13-10K
R14-10K
R15-470K
R16-4.7K
R17-1.5K
R18-10K
R19-3.3K
R20-3.3K
R21-3.3K
R22-330 OHM
R23-220K
R24-100K
R25-47K
R26-1K
R27-47K
R28-100K
R29-150K
R30-6.8K
R31-100K
R32-18K
R33-150K
R34-47K
R35-470 OHM
R36-100K
R37-150K
CAPACITORS
C1-470PF
C2-33NF
C3-100NF
C4-4.7NF
C5-100NF
C6-100PF
C7-33NF
C8-47NF
C9-100NF
C10-220NF
C11-100NF
C12-100NF
C13-100NF
C14-22NF
C15-100NF
C16-220NF
C17-1.2NF
C18-100NF
C19-220NF
C20-100UF ELECTRO
C21-100NF
C22-22UF ELECTRO
C23-22UF ELECTRO
C24-22UF ELECTRO
DIODES
D1-1N4148
D2-1N4007
D3-1N4148
D4-1N4733
D5-1N4148
D6-1N4148
D7-1N4733
D8-1N4007
IC'S
IC1-TL072P
IC2-TL072P
IC3-TL072P
POTS
TIGHT-B100K
GAIN-A500K
VOLUME-B10K
TONE-B10K
SWITCHES
GATE-SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLE
THRASH-SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLE
PART COUNTS
RESISTORS
(3) 1M
(5) 100K
(3) 470K
(5) 47K
(3) 1.5K
(1) 22K
(4) 10K
(1) 4.7K
(3) 3.3K
(1) 330 OHM
(1) 220K
(1) 1K
(3) 150K
(1) 6.8K
(1) 18K
(1) 47 OHM
CAPACITORS
(1) 470PF
(2) 33NF
(9) 100NF
(1) 4.7NF
(1) 100PF
(1) 47NF
(3) 220NF
(1) 22NF
(1) 1.2NF
(1) 100UF ELECTRO
(3) 22UF ELECTRO
IC'S
(3) TL072P
DIODES
(4) 1N4148
(2) 1N4007
(2) 1N4733
POTS
(1) B100K
(1) A500K
(2) B10K
SWITCHES
(2) SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLES
Sorry about this..... more corrections to the BOM:
RESISTORS
R1-1M
R2-100K
R3-470K
R4-1M
R5-47K
R6-1M
R7-470K
R8-47K
R9-1.5K
R10-1.5K
R11-22K
R12-10K
R13-10K
R14-10K
R15-470K
R16-4.7K
R17-1.5K
R18-10K
R19-3.3K
R20-3.3K
R21-3.3K
R22-330 OHM
R23-220K
R24-100K
R25-47K
R26-1K
R27-47K
R28-100K
R29-150K
R30-6.8K
R31-100K
R32-18K
R33-150K
R34-47K
R35-47 OHM
R36-100K
R37-150K
CAPACITORS
C1-470PF
C2-33NF
C3-100NF
C4-4.7NF
C5-100NF
C6-100PF
C7-33NF
C8-47NF
C9-100NF
C10-220NF
C11-100NF
C12-100NF
C13-100NF
C14-22NF
C15-100NF
C16-220NF
C17-1.2NF
C18-100NF
C19-220NF
C20-100UF ELECTRO
C21-100NF
C22-22UF ELECTRO
C23-22UF ELECTRO
C24-22UF ELECTRO
DIODES
D1-1N4148
D2-1N4733
D3-1N4148
D4-1N4733
D5-1N4007
D6-1N4148
D7-1N4733
D8-1N4007
IC'S
IC1-TL072
IC2-TL072
IC3-TL072
POTS
TIGHT-B100K
GAIN-A500K
VOLUME-B10K
TONE-B10K
GATE-A500K
SWITCHES
GATE-SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLE
THRASH-SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLE
PART COUNTS
RESISTORS
(3) 1M
(5) 100K
(3) 470K
(5) 47K
(3) 1.5K
(1) 22K
(4) 10K
(1) 4.7K
(3) 3.3K
(1) 330 OHM
(1) 220K
(1) 1K
(3) 150K
(1) 6.8K
(1) 18K
(1) 47 OHM
CAPACITORS
(1) 470PF
(2) 33NF
(9) 100NF
(1) 4.7NF
(1) 100PF
(1) 47NF
(3) 220NF
(1) 22NF
(1) 1.2NF
(1) 100UF ELECTRO
(3) 22UF ELECTRO
IC'S
(3) TL072P
DIODES
(3) 1N4148
(2) 1N4007
(3) 1N4733
POTS
(1) B100K
(2) A500K
(2) B10K
SWITCHES
(2) SPDT ON/OFF TOGGLES
Quote from: J0K3RX on June 02, 2013, 06:55:48 AM
I can't believe no interest here??? :o wow!
Oh well, here goes nothin. :icon_rolleyes:
No on-board pots and no silly LED light up knobs... All the rest is there!
By the way, this is NOT Verified, yet! Don't be a sissy... Check it yourself, and maybe build it if you dare! :icon_twisted:
I fully expect that this will sink into the abyss of this forum, prove me wrong... :icon_lol:
Schematic
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM%20schem%203f.png
Single sided layout with ground fill
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM1_FILL.pdf
Single sided layout without ground fill
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM1.pdf
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM1.PNG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM2.PNG)
So, the schem is verified?
It's not verified yet, but if you want to join the fight use the ground plane version and start posting some results :icon_twisted: I have it built but have some issues to sort out.....
Quote from: J0K3RX on June 02, 2013, 09:37:31 PM
Well, the schematic is verified anyway... good work jymaze and bajaman!! :icon_wink:
I don't know about my layout but I believe the schematic is 100% correct!
Bread boarded TM buy ggedamed from "the other forum" :icon_mrgreen:
Like I posted earlier, here it is bread boarded from the schematic so, it is working! It has also been verified in Spice in another forum... But, like I also said, I don't know about the layout as I have not built it yet..??
Ok, this is Very Verified, now! :icon_twisted: Probably my favorite high gain pedal!
I didn't go through all of the settings in my samples but it can do a lot!!! Very quiet pedal!!
Sh!tty samples. Used on-board cab sim - Chain was\ Guitar-> pedal with on-board cab sim-> PC-> Reaper DAW with some slight vst delay... No post EQ
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM2.mp3
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM3.mp3
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/Image2.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/Image1.JPG)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/Image3.JPG)
Cab Simulator
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/simple_cabsim2.png)
TM Schematic
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/schematics%20rc%201.jpg)
New Layout
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM%20New%20Rcustoms%20Mod.GIF)
New layout Transfer - May need scaling inside acrobat?
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/TM%20Transfer%203.pdf
Enclosure etch
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/11178619/TM1/front2.png)
I'm not using the FX loops... You can jumper them if you don't plan to install them.
Great work Jim. I wish I had your knowledge and know how. Well done Sir
Quote from: Kipper4 on July 21, 2013, 06:09:57 PM
Great work Jim. I wish I had your knowledge and know how. Well done Sir
Thanks Rich! I can't take credit for this, it was really a group effort! Thanks to jymaze, bajaman and rcustoms in the "other forum" for all their help with this! and Lart for the bad@ss cab simulator!
If any body want's to know the details on the boost switch and whatever else just ask...
I know exactly what I'm building next. :icon_eek:
f........g nice. :icon_twisted:
the lead sound comes through nicely too,without being fizzy/gatey, very cool.......cool licks btw man. ;) :icon_twisted:
excellent work guys.... 8)
Old topic, but you know, no need open a new.
One of my far future project is a Wampler Triple Wreck pedal, I can build it on veroboard layout.
A good alternative for metal distortion is the Tight Metal but I can't print the PCB.
I found this link where I can use a PTH - Pass-Through Hole, (sorry I can't the right name). http://effectslayouts.blogspot.it/2015/08/amptweaker-tight-metal.html (http://effectslayouts.blogspot.it/2015/08/amptweaker-tight-metal.html).
This layout seems UNVERIFIED.
Has somebody built it, or we can understand if the board is reliable?
Thank you!
I've never heard/seen this. My next build
Nice Job guys!
In the third video (with the circuit on the breadboard) you can hear some squeal when he tries to turn the (gain?) knob. Have you had any problems with oscillation?
This subject sank into the abyss here for some reason (lack of interest) or whatever... :icon_rolleyes: So, I didn't post any further updates here. The video was done early on in the process and has since been perfected and 100% verified by myself and scores of others.. I also got my hands on the Tight Rock and that has now been fully verified which wasn't hard since it's nearly identical to the TM with the exception of the SideTrak feature and a few part value changes.
The schematic in this thread has a few minor mistakes on it that I later corrected one of which is R27 should be 4k7 instead of 1k5 which also appears to be incorrect on the effectslayouts blogspot as well. I have built this many times with many different add-ons and modifications and I have not had a single one of them have any problems with oscillation. As a matter of fact they all worked flawlessly and actually sound identical to the original and with some slight modifications they sound even better than the original! I can tell you straight away that you do not want to build one without the pots mounted on-board because this thing is a high gain monster! Also I would highly recommend NOT trying to put this thing on vero unless you enjoy a noisy, humming, buzzing, squealing, cross talking birds nest of insanity! FYI - It doesn't play nicely on a breadboard either! :icon_evil:
All of the ones I build now are double sided fab from OSH or places like that. I use metal film resistors most of the time and your choice of caps really makes a difference in this circuit.. I used to be a skeptic but this pedal made me a believer!
Anyway, you can make your own boards or you can swing on over to Grind Customs and get a really nicely designed board :icon_wink: And, the build doc has the correct schematic if you are just wanting to check that out..
http://www.grindcustomsfx.com/product/gcfx-aeons/
Oh, and just FYI... The Triple Wreck does not even come close to reaching the levels of brutality that this thing dishes out!!! Not even close... :icon_twisted:
Thanks, J0K3RX. ;)
Eventually, I don't use a stripboard, but this kind of board, tinning the tracks with the solder.:
(http://www.settorezero.com/wordpress/contents/2011/11/protoboard2.jpg)
I never built on verobord these kind of high gain distortion pedals, just a Big Muff, A BSIAB II and a Fuzz Factory.
I don't know Grind Customs, the shipping cost for Italy is "Flat Rate", and it means... ?
Quote from: J0K3RX on August 05, 2016, 11:55:27 AM
Oh, and just FYI... The Triple Wreck does not even come close to reaching the levels of brutality that this thing dishes out!!! Not even close... :icon_twisted:
Really? :icon_eek:
Quote from: Elijah-Baley on August 05, 2016, 01:00:38 PM
I don't know Grind Customs, the shipping cost for Italy is "Flat Rate", and it means... ?
"Zero"? I just happened to pass by there and picked up a couple of PCBs a few minutes ago. Zero shipping to UK, so I guess Italy would be the same.
Zero costs? Sounds good! I hope no fee, duty or taxes added at the delivery. The PCB aeons cost just 10 $.
Thank you, blubunny, let us know if the delivery will be alright and quick.
Quote from: defaced on June 02, 2013, 10:22:48 AM
Your ground trace forms a ground loop around the perimeter of the board. It will hum like a SOB like that. You need to break it somewhere so the current only has _one_ path it can flow.
You sure about that? I work on boards all day with solid copper pours. The only problem I see with the copper pour are areas of the pour not connected to ground. Those areas can create little patch antennas that are capacitively coupled to the surrounding pads and traces.
Quote from: LiLFX on August 05, 2016, 10:53:50 PM
Quote from: defaced on June 02, 2013, 10:22:48 AM
Your ground trace forms a ground loop around the perimeter of the board. It will hum like a SOB like that. You need to break it somewhere so the current only has _one_ path it can flow.
You sure about that? I work on boards all day with solid copper pours. The only problem I see with the copper pour are areas of the pour not connected to ground. Those areas can create little patch antennas that are capacitively coupled to the surrounding pads and traces.
You're just a little late to the party, that was a reply from 3 years ago... :icon_lol: No use debating that layout, ground loops, ground pour, unconnected islands etc.. It had a lot of issues and the ground pour was not one of them. I have removed it. :icon_wink:
Woah...I didn't even see the age of the post. haha
Quote from: LiLFX on August 06, 2016, 01:20:26 PM
Woah...I didn't even see the age of the post. haha
Quote from: Elijah-Baley on August 05, 2016, 07:21:04 AM
Old topic, but you know, no need open a new.
[...]
My bad, sorry. :icon_redface:
:)
cool, glad to see this alive again....i did bread this, and was brutal,
i ended up ripping the gate out, though it was a cool feature there was no real adjustment,
i also ripped out the tight pot section too
and ended up with pretty much a bare bones schemo in the end....
just vol, tone gain...
If to buying from Grind Custom there's no added cost to the 10 $ to the board I could buy it with my next orders (in this winter?).
I would just to know one thing, can I use pot lugs with short wires instead those PCB mount pots? I drill my box by hand, I could to be not so precise, I prefer BB enclosures when I have 6 knobs and maybe to have more space inside the enclosure.
Quote from: Elijah-Baley on August 05, 2016, 01:00:38 PM
Thanks, J0K3RX. ;)
Eventually, I don't use a stripboard, but this kind of board, tinning the tracks with the solder.:
(http://www.settorezero.com/wordpress/contents/2011/11/protoboard2.jpg)
[...]
Sorry for the image, I couldn't link it and I didn't know it. :-[
Quote from: Elijah-Baley on August 08, 2016, 06:29:51 AM
I drill my box by hand, I could to be not so precise
The "trick" with board-mounted pots (or switches) is to
dry-mount them to your board,
then fix to the enclosure,
then solder them in place. You should find that little bit of "wiggle" room can accommodate any imprecision in the drilling.
Thank you, I didn't know it. ;)
But you advise against to use even only short wires?
Quote from: Elijah-Baley on August 09, 2016, 03:19:28 AM
But you advise against to use even only short wires?
Nothing wrong with doing that too. :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 08, 2016, 03:20:36 AM
cool, glad to see this alive again....i did bread this, and was brutal,
i ended up ripping the gate out, though it was a cool feature there was no real adjustment,
i also ripped out the tight pot section too
and ended up with pretty much a bare bones schemo in the end....
just vol, tone gain...
Rob,
Agree 100% on the "tight" control! Even on the retail pedal it's a less than useless feature if you wanna call it a feature in my opinion... Should be called the "Thin, Not So Good, wtf is that, frequency damper".. Honestly the damn thing is tighter than a gnats @ss as it is and I never even touch that knob, unless of course it gets bumped up by accident in which case I turn it completely back off again! I figured since damn near the whole Amptweaker pedal line up has a "Tight" control that it must have some dramatically good effect on the attack or something but, that was exactly the opposite? :icon_confused: In regards to the gate I'm not sure what you mean when you say "there was no real adjustment"? On all of the ones that I have built if anything the gate has too much adjustment! By that I mean you only really need to crack it on just a hair to get rid of most of the nasty high gain hum and hiss... Anything beyond the "sweet spot" just muffles the notes and kills the sustain. That is why I don't like the idea of the dual gang Gain/Gate pot. It's a great idea just poorly implemented in this design.. The gate to gain ratio is way off, you could probably get better results with a 100k pot vs 500k..
I have one with a full tone stack that I have been messing around with off and on and trying some different gates like the one on the G2D Morpheus and the one used in the Elan Metalhead Excalibur preamp. I've been tinkering around with this Peavey JSX hum buster diode gate before I ever even got my hands on the Amptweaker pedals, I was putting them in the JFET pedals like the Black Forest and Engl etc.. I expected that the Tight Metal would have the same gate as the Peavey amps since they were designed by the same person and as soon as I played one I knew exactly what it was even before I tore into it! They're really good for what they are but, if you really want a good gate then get a Behringer Noise Reducer (NS-2 clone) or better yet a Decimator.. Also, have put an mxr micro amp type boost after it and really kix it up a couple notches! I haven't really found anything that sounds good in front of the TM.. Tube screamers, boost circuits all degrade the sound so, I am curious what he's using in the pro versions, maybe they sound like sh!t also..? Kinda like the "Tight" pot does... :P I am curious to get a look inside the pro series but for now I will just keep messin around with what I have... I mean the basic design of these pedals is what everybody likes, all the rest is just ba bling ba bling..
hi jim, yeah totally agree on the tight pot....must just be their thang i guess..
a full tone stack would be useful defo....
as for the gate, yep it defo worked....i was just experimenting n stuff.....shrinking my breadboard etc...
massive gain pedal....i,ll probably bread it up again soon....ish
cheers man...
Quote from: bluebunny on August 05, 2016, 01:07:56 PM
Quote from: Elijah-Baley on August 05, 2016, 01:00:38 PM
I don't know Grind Customs, the shipping cost for Italy is "Flat Rate", and it means... ?
"Zero"? I just happened to pass by there and picked up a couple of PCBs a few minutes ago. Zero shipping to UK, so I guess Italy would be the same.
Hello bluebunny, may you confirm the "zero" shipping cost for UK, so even I can guess Italy would be the same?
Or somebody else can confirm it?
And what about the delivery time?
Thanks! ;)
You'd best contact them (http://www.grindcustomsfx.com/#contact) directly and ask.
Ok, thanks for the link ;).
did you get the pics of the tight boost I sent you? I'm assuming he probably uses something similar to it possibly without the wah (mid). high or tight knobs
Quote from: J0K3RX on August 10, 2016, 01:16:20 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 08, 2016, 03:20:36 AM
cool, glad to see this alive again....i did bread this, and was brutal,
i ended up ripping the gate out, though it was a cool feature there was no real adjustment,
i also ripped out the tight pot section too
and ended up with pretty much a bare bones schemo in the end....
just vol, tone gain...
Rob,
Agree 100% on the "tight" control! Even on the retail pedal it's a less than useless feature if you wanna call it a feature in my opinion... Should be called the "Thin, Not So Good, wtf is that, frequency damper".. Honestly the damn thing is tighter than a gnats @ss as it is and I never even touch that knob, unless of course it gets bumped up by accident in which case I turn it completely back off again! I figured since damn near the whole Amptweaker pedal line up has a "Tight" control that it must have some dramatically good effect on the attack or something but, that was exactly the opposite? :icon_confused: In regards to the gate I'm not sure what you mean when you say "there was no real adjustment"? On all of the ones that I have built if anything the gate has too much adjustment! By that I mean you only really need to crack it on just a hair to get rid of most of the nasty high gain hum and hiss... Anything beyond the "sweet spot" just muffles the notes and kills the sustain. That is why I don't like the idea of the dual gang Gain/Gate pot. It's a great idea just poorly implemented in this design.. The gate to gain ratio is way off, you could probably get better results with a 100k pot vs 500k..
I have one with a full tone stack that I have been messing around with off and on and trying some different gates like the one on the G2D Morpheus and the one used in the Elan Metalhead Excalibur preamp. I've been tinkering around with this Peavey JSX hum buster diode gate before I ever even got my hands on the Amptweaker pedals, I was putting them in the JFET pedals like the Black Forest and Engl etc.. I expected that the Tight Metal would have the same gate as the Peavey amps since they were designed by the same person and as soon as I played one I knew exactly what it was even before I tore into it! They're really good for what they are but, if you really want a good gate then get a Behringer Noise Reducer (NS-2 clone) or better yet a Decimator.. Also, have put an mxr micro amp type boost after it and really kix it up a couple notches! I haven't really found anything that sounds good in front of the TM.. Tube screamers, boost circuits all degrade the sound so, I am curious what he's using in the pro versions, maybe they sound like sh!t also..? Kinda like the "Tight" pot does... :P I am curious to get a look inside the pro series but for now I will just keep messin around with what I have... I mean the basic design of these pedals is what everybody likes, all the rest is just ba bling ba bling..
what you really should do is drill the enclosure, mount all the PCB mount pots and then solder your PCB to the pots so its custom fitted to that enclosure. I drill all of mine by hand as well and that will give you the best results I find. you can use solder lug pots and then just solder 22 gauge hook up wire to them and then do exactly the same thing, there more forgiving and flexible if your drilling does end up being less than perfect sometimes
Quote from: Elijah-Baley on August 08, 2016, 06:29:51 AM
If to buying from Grind Custom there's no added cost to the 10 $ to the board I could buy it with my next orders (in this winter?).
I would just to know one thing, can I use pot lugs with short wires instead those PCB mount pots? I drill my box by hand, I could to be not so precise, I prefer BB enclosures when I have 6 knobs and maybe to have more space inside the enclosure.
Quote from: Belanger on January 13, 2017, 07:59:10 PM
did you get the pics of the tight boost I sent you? I'm assuming he probably uses something similar to it possibly without the wah (mid). high or tight knobs
Quote from: J0K3RX on August 10, 2016, 01:16:20 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 08, 2016, 03:20:36 AM
cool, glad to see this alive again....i did bread this, and was brutal,
i ended up ripping the gate out, though it was a cool feature there was no real adjustment,
i also ripped out the tight pot section too
and ended up with pretty much a bare bones schemo in the end....
just vol, tone gain...
Rob,
Agree 100% on the "tight" control! Even on the retail pedal it's a less than useless feature if you wanna call it a feature in my opinion... Should be called the "Thin, Not So Good, wtf is that, frequency damper".. Honestly the damn thing is tighter than a gnats @ss as it is and I never even touch that knob, unless of course it gets bumped up by accident in which case I turn it completely back off again! I figured since damn near the whole Amptweaker pedal line up has a "Tight" control that it must have some dramatically good effect on the attack or something but, that was exactly the opposite? :icon_confused: In regards to the gate I'm not sure what you mean when you say "there was no real adjustment"? On all of the ones that I have built if anything the gate has too much adjustment! By that I mean you only really need to crack it on just a hair to get rid of most of the nasty high gain hum and hiss... Anything beyond the "sweet spot" just muffles the notes and kills the sustain. That is why I don't like the idea of the dual gang Gain/Gate pot. It's a great idea just poorly implemented in this design.. The gate to gain ratio is way off, you could probably get better results with a 100k pot vs 500k..
I have one with a full tone stack that I have been messing around with off and on and trying some different gates like the one on the G2D Morpheus and the one used in the Elan Metalhead Excalibur preamp. I've been tinkering around with this Peavey JSX hum buster diode gate before I ever even got my hands on the Amptweaker pedals, I was putting them in the JFET pedals like the Black Forest and Engl etc.. I expected that the Tight Metal would have the same gate as the Peavey amps since they were designed by the same person and as soon as I played one I knew exactly what it was even before I tore into it! They're really good for what they are but, if you really want a good gate then get a Behringer Noise Reducer (NS-2 clone) or better yet a Decimator.. Also, have put an mxr micro amp type boost after it and really kix it up a couple notches! I haven't really found anything that sounds good in front of the TM.. Tube screamers, boost circuits all degrade the sound so, I am curious what he's using in the pro versions, maybe they sound like sh!t also..? Kinda like the "Tight" pot does... :P I am curious to get a look inside the pro series but for now I will just keep messin around with what I have... I mean the basic design of these pedals is what everybody likes, all the rest is just ba bling ba bling..
Yeah, I got the pics of the tight boost, thanks.. The tight boost is a similar looking layout but it's different than the tight/fat rock, tight/fat metal.. Would need a lot better pics with the board removed from the enclosure and the jacks removed etc.. These are tricky pedals to trace, very eratic layout with traces going from one side of the board to the other and splitting off in different directions.. Definitely doesn't look like any auto-routing was used because it's just too "off the wall" to be AI.. The tight metal, fat metal, tight rock, fat rock are all built on the same board. The other pedals not sure about but they are different.
ok ill try to get you those pictures of the tight boost for tomorrow. I find the wah feature pretty useless myself and as always the tight knob is pretty useless lol. the high knob is pretty cool to have tho because you can roll off some highs to simulate an added gain stage i typically use it in my fx loop, it sounds awful boosting the tight metal as well metal. I'm working on a JFET overdrive similar to the amt heater and I'm going to try using that with the tight metal
Quote from: J0K3RX on January 14, 2017, 03:41:36 PM
Quote from: Belanger on January 13, 2017, 07:59:10 PM
did you get the pics of the tight boost I sent you? I'm assuming he probably uses something similar to it possibly without the wah (mid). high or tight knobs
Quote from: J0K3RX on August 10, 2016, 01:16:20 AM
Quote from: deadastronaut on August 08, 2016, 03:20:36 AM
cool, glad to see this alive again....i did bread this, and was brutal,
i ended up ripping the gate out, though it was a cool feature there was no real adjustment,
i also ripped out the tight pot section too
and ended up with pretty much a bare bones schemo in the end....
just vol, tone gain...
Rob,
Agree 100% on the "tight" control! Even on the retail pedal it's a less than useless feature if you wanna call it a feature in my opinion... Should be called the "Thin, Not So Good, wtf is that, frequency damper".. Honestly the damn thing is tighter than a gnats @ss as it is and I never even touch that knob, unless of course it gets bumped up by accident in which case I turn it completely back off again! I figured since damn near the whole Amptweaker pedal line up has a "Tight" control that it must have some dramatically good effect on the attack or something but, that was exactly the opposite? :icon_confused: In regards to the gate I'm not sure what you mean when you say "there was no real adjustment"? On all of the ones that I have built if anything the gate has too much adjustment! By that I mean you only really need to crack it on just a hair to get rid of most of the nasty high gain hum and hiss... Anything beyond the "sweet spot" just muffles the notes and kills the sustain. That is why I don't like the idea of the dual gang Gain/Gate pot. It's a great idea just poorly implemented in this design.. The gate to gain ratio is way off, you could probably get better results with a 100k pot vs 500k..
I have one with a full tone stack that I have been messing around with off and on and trying some different gates like the one on the G2D Morpheus and the one used in the Elan Metalhead Excalibur preamp. I've been tinkering around with this Peavey JSX hum buster diode gate before I ever even got my hands on the Amptweaker pedals, I was putting them in the JFET pedals like the Black Forest and Engl etc.. I expected that the Tight Metal would have the same gate as the Peavey amps since they were designed by the same person and as soon as I played one I knew exactly what it was even before I tore into it! They're really good for what they are but, if you really want a good gate then get a Behringer Noise Reducer (NS-2 clone) or better yet a Decimator.. Also, have put an mxr micro amp type boost after it and really kix it up a couple notches! I haven't really found anything that sounds good in front of the TM.. Tube screamers, boost circuits all degrade the sound so, I am curious what he's using in the pro versions, maybe they sound like sh!t also..? Kinda like the "Tight" pot does... :P I am curious to get a look inside the pro series but for now I will just keep messin around with what I have... I mean the basic design of these pedals is what everybody likes, all the rest is just ba bling ba bling..
Yeah, I got the pics of the tight boost, thanks.. The tight boost is a similar looking layout but it's different than the tight/fat rock, tight/fat metal.. Would need a lot better pics with the board removed from the enclosure and the jacks removed etc.. These are tricky pedals to trace, very eratic layout with traces going from one side of the board to the other and splitting off in different directions.. Definitely doesn't look like any auto-routing was used because it's just too "off the wall" to be AI.. The tight metal, fat metal, tight rock, fat rock are all built on the same board. The other pedals not sure about but they are different.
I found a veroboard layout and it says VERiFIED! Does anyone know it?
Here's the link: http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/AmpTweaker-Tight-Metal-td9212.html
hi guys ive built the tight metal but it sounds heavy but on a fuzzy side. it lacks body and punch , what would seem the problem be?
I built the layout on the link I posted above. It work really good.
What layout did you use?