I don't suppose you guys actually have one of these hen's teeth and can supply a sketch / photo showing the orientation of the LED, LDRs and shutter?
Interesting, which one of the LDRs is LDR1? From the schematic it's presumably the one next to the LED.
(Notice the «OMG the guy`s got one, but is a total noob» question at the end. :icon_mrgreen:)
Actually, Larry brought up a good point in our PM exchange. Since that LED/LDR1 combo is inside the same tube, could the shutter also affect the intensity of the LED? As the shutter moves out of the way, light bleeds out to LDR2, and LDR1 on the LED side reads this variation, adjusting the LED intensity slightly? Keep things really super linear?
Please tell me if my cheese has gone off it`s cracker again... :icon_rolleyes:
Let me get this straight. What you are saying is that you are 100% sure that you're 50% confident? :icon_wink:It might be the other way around.
Can I have some points for getting the right answer even though my working was wrong?
So Larry, when are you or Mick going to post one of those cool sounding FV-1 projects?Hi Larry,
If you MUST know, I have a couple top-secret possibly revolutionary designs in progress. These leverage the FV-1 in a way that I have not seen done and also tie into some things which are very commonly discussed here. Interested yet? ;D
If you MUST know, I have a couple top-secret possibly revolutionary designs in progress. These leverage the FV-1 in a way that I have not seen done and also tie into some things which are very commonly discussed here. Interested yet? ;D
Does this design have anything to do with easily obtainable plumbing/sprinkler parts? ;D
You threw out just enough to make me curious! Let me see....Octave divider perhaps?
Does this design have anything to do with easily obtainable plumbing/sprinkler parts? ;DThe octave divider might be something to consider, but I`m definately in for the cheese grater attachment. :icon_wink:
Thanks for the explination. Especially in terms that I can understand.
Let me get this straight. What you are saying is that you are 100% sure that you're 50% confident? :icon_wink:It might be the other way around.
cheese grater... flat or one of those hand crank dealybobs?
But how can you be sure?Let me get this straight. What you are saying is that you are 100% sure that you're 50% confident? :icon_wink:It might be the other way around.
"60% of the time, it works every time."
LAIR!!!! You actually salvaged that from a scrapped Mutron Flanger.
:icon_lol:
Beautiful work Larry. :icon_biggrin: What materials did you use?
But how can you be sure?There is a serious saying in programming that "almost always is almost always as good as always".
"60% of the time, it works every time."
I checked with my cat, but he doesn't appear to be feeling well.
Thanks for the reply Larry (cool name by the way!)
Not a bad idea.
There's another issue with this enclosure....the shutter slot is less than 3/4" from the rear of the enclosure. If we do in fact need to use the two LED/LDR "tubes" they would be situated in this area. This is also where the effect on/off switch and the effect/pedal switch need to go. This won't work!
@Larry
I realize that you are working off of the original but...
Is that tube assembly crucial to the circuit? I am asking because I am wondering if the LEDs and LDRs could be exposed and get the same results a-la the Morleys and Lovetone pedals.
Essentially... Could you explain the reason why they would have used that black tube and lens contraption?
Did you add the BBD output level trimmer at the emitter of the 5088?
QuoteDid you add the BBD output level trimmer at the emitter of the 5088?
There already is a 10K trimmer (R21) on the original, so I'm using that one.
Do you think that I'll need the two 4.7K resistors on T1?
Noob question running through my mind here; Even with the negative voltage readings I gave, considering the signal ground sits in the middle of +/-7.5v, would it be logical to assume that we can add the recorded voltages to the + reference voltages to get the real voltages? Guess I`ll get my answer to that tonight. :icon_mrgreen:
Here you go:
0V to signal ground is 7.58V
toe up 7.58 - 5.35 = 2.23V
toe down 7.58 + 4.31 = 11.89V
Resistance of LDR 2 at toe down position approx 5.3 Megohms.
If the voltage across LDR 1 (PC1) does not change with treadle position, then that confirms that PC1's only purpose in life is to help maintain the light output from the LED CR18 at a constant brightness.