In my latest Tayda order, 9 out of 13 1/4 mono jacks were defective. The threads have a minor defect that you can't notice until you screw the nut down. The nut just keeps spinning and won't get tight enough to hold it to an enclosure.
I tried different nuts I had on hand with the same result. Has anyone had this happen to them? I guess cheaper doesn't anyways mean better. I'll contact customer service and see what happens. Its almost like they bought a big B-stock batch and mixed em in...
I've used tayda's jacks in almost every build larger tHan a 1590a I've eever made. I've never had one do what you describe. I did have a switch with an incorrect but once. You're not the only one who's mentioned this, though. Maybe you guys are jUST unlucky ...
Quote from: timd on August 28, 2013, 09:02:22 PM
In my latest Tayda order, 9 out of 13 1/4 mono jacks were defective. The threads have a minor defect that you can't notice until you screw the nut down. The nut just keeps spinning and won't get tight enough to hold it to an enclosure.
I tried different nuts I had on hand with the same result. Has anyone had this happen to them? I guess cheaper doesn't anyways mean better. I'll contact customer service and see what happens. Its almost like they bought a big B-stock batch and mixed em in...
i have. I don't order jacks from them anymore, those still come from mammoth .
Tayda jacks are far too cheap to use in even DIY builds. Neutrik are one thousand times better.
Quote from: Arcane Analog on August 28, 2013, 10:09:20 PM
Tayda jacks are far too cheap to use in even DIY builds. Neutrik are one thousand times better.
No. No and NO. (not that I dislike neutrik, but to say they are far too cheap is beyond exaggeration)
I like their plastic switchcraft style jacks.
They were better when they were .50C a piece now they are higher.
I've only had one that did what the OP describes, and it only did it because the locking washers I had are way to thick and it only had 1or2 threads to grab.
OP I would goto the hardware store with one of the jacks and find a nut that fits better. that fits better at least it wont be a total waste.
I will say you can't torque them down too hard, but you really shouldnt have too.
I already tried to thread a bunch of different nuts. The problem is what they are threading onto. The shaft was machined improperly and won't fit any size.
Quote from: timd on August 28, 2013, 10:48:53 PM
I already tried to thread a bunch of different nuts. The problem is what they are threading onto. The shaft was machined improperly and won't fit any size.
That's a bummer, email/call/skype/facebook them
QuoteCustomer Service Contact # : +662-6195817 ( Monday - Friday )
Customer Service : Please use Contact Us page or use Help Desk section in your Tayda Electronics account.
SKYPE : taydaelectronics
MSN : taydaelectronics ( @ ) hotmail .com
I would probably use the helpdesk portion and facebook. You can post on their facebook page and possibly get more attention since it's advertised that you aren't satisfied it says 100% Satisfaction Guarenteed on their site so I bet they will fix it no problem, don't let it turn you off to them. It's a great store.
They normally have good stuff, and I have ordered from them multiple times in the past without issues.
same exact issue with two seperate batches of tayda 1/4 inch jacks Tim , the threads are like tiny little ridges , almost non existant . you can literally strip them with out using a wrench , just fingers and they just will not thread properly at all . the real bad part was that on my first order , i bought quite a few . i did use a few of them because i had no choice, by adding fingernail polish or lock tight , but then they are tough to remove later to replace with a properly manufactured part which i did . i do not purchase them anymore , now i get the plastic style but i am not thrilled about my last batch of those , they have a double washer and seem a bit cheap / meltie . also they sent the wrong nuts more than once with the plastic style. i believe it really was the only issues i had with tayda stuff . this was over a year ago though . i am guessing they watch our videos and send the good stuff to the " real pros ' ;)
HAHAHA!
If you're going to spent time researching, breadboarding, tweaking, soldering & boxing a pedal, it would seem crazy to skimp on the one part that will be used /plugged /unplugged over & over again.
I've got to say to go with at least Neutrik, Switchcraft on even higher quality if you can find em priced reasonably. There's few things worse than wasting time debugging a pedal for hours only to realize the guitar jack is not making a perfect connection with the 1/4" jack.
You're right. I guess the build is only as good as the weakest link.
Quote from: petey twofinger on August 29, 2013, 12:00:36 AM
i am guessing they watch our videos and send the good stuff to the " real pros ' ;)
Or how about this one. You're demoing a diy pedal in a video and the jack falls out of the enclosure while you're filming. "got this gem from Tayda!"
yeah two days ago i was chasing down a weak channel thru all my pedals and then the rack mount stuff to discover if i twisted the headhone cable it popped up 3 db ... that was not too cool .
i suppose if i consider how much $$$ i saved ordering from tayda , the little bit of hassle is totally fogivable but those parts were total garbage . it weasnt an issue of me not knowing what a jack is .... or how to tighten it . i would think tayda would be wise enough to realize THEY got burned and not pass that crap on to the customers . then again i supopiose its my own fault for not making a stink about it but i dont think they will be getting any of my jack money ever again though . it seems to me that when i looked into it , the switchcraft stuff was a lot more expensive so i would be interested in finding a supplier for affordable 1/4 inch jacks that are decent at this point .
Quote from: petey twofinger on August 29, 2013, 12:40:15 AM
yeah two days ago i was chasing down a weak channel thru all my pedals and then the rack mount stuff to discover if i twisted the headhone cable it popped up 3 db ... that was not too cool .
i suppose if i consider how much $$$ i saved ordering from tayda , the little bit of hassle is totally fogivable but those parts were total garbage . it weasnt an issue of me not knowing what a jack is .... or how to tighten it . i would think tayda would be wise enough to realize THEY got burned and not pass that crap on to the customers . then again i supopiose its my own fault for not making a stink about it but i dont think they will be getting any of my jack money ever again though . it seems to me that when i looked into it , the switchcraft stuff was a lot more expensive so i would be interested in finding a supplier for affordable 1/4 inch jacks that are decent at this point .
Clean the connectors. that's all you need to do.
Take steel wool or scotchbrite to the tip and ring connectors on the jack. If you twisted it and it jumped up then it's just dirty it happens
If it's an enclosed jack then I bet a Qtip with some acetone would work well enough
Neutruks.....say no more.. 8)
I posted this before...maybe it'll help someone.
For the open jacks...the cheaper the jack, usually the worse the flanging and the more breaks in the flanging. On the Switchcrafts, there's virtually no breaks in the flanging at all, like this (cheap jack from my early days):
(http://www.luciferstrip.com/fuzz/cheapjack.jpg)
Switchcraft:
(http://www.pedalpartsplus.com/mm5/graphics/00000001/Switchcraft%2012A.jpg)
The Neutriks are quality, but the ones I've gotten over the past few years have not been as sturdy as the Switchcraft. They will many times have small breaks in the flanging, but nowhere near the level of the cheapo ones.
Neutrik:
(http://img.auctiva.com/imgdata/9/8/6/0/1/1/webimg/481457311_o.jpg)
The higher quality jacks will usually be made of a phenolic or phenolic-type (or fiberglass-type) material instead of the lighter cheap plastic type material in the cheapo above.
The heaviest duty ones I've gotten in the past years are ones used by the old ham radio guys. Those are phenolic, have virtually no break in the flanging, your guitar plug "clicks" into place stronger than the Neutrik or Switchcraft, and they also have two nuts for really tightening well...
(http://www.luciferstrip.com/fuzz/qualityjack.jpg)
I just got a Tayda order in yesterday including a pair of the plastic 1/4" mono jacks and a pair the stereo versions. I haven't checked them yet but when I get back from work tonight I will and report back.
Start a helpdesk ticket and explain the situation, I will if I discover mine are defective too. They seem to be pretty good on wanting to keep their customers happy and if enough people speak up hopefully they do something about it and maybe get some better jacks in stock.
LT, that post is helpful, BUT one thing I've noticed about switchcraft and other jacks is that they grip the cable very tightly. If I risk damaging the cable trying to get it out of the box, I'm probably also abusing the jack. I've got about 8 different types of mono jacks around the house, and the only ones I use (when I can help it) are Smallbear's plastic "Low-Profile" jacks and Tayda's open jacks. I like Tayda's open jacks better than the switchcraft AND neutrik ones I have ... for one thing, I think the plastic casing is more durable than the phenolic casing on some Neutriks, which has actually fallen apart on me before (?!). The only think I have to do is gently "edit" the position of the tip because they all seem to hit the wrong spot on the cable tip (that bit of ill-fitting is 100% uniform, though ... I wonder if maybe it's from metric measurements for the cable tips?). If somehow Tayda HAS lowered the quality on them recently, then that really worries me, because they are actually my favorites out of what I've tried.
The switchcraft jacks I have don't look nearly as high quality as the one you posted. ???
Nowadays quality control, materials and R&D make up such a small portion of the total end consumer cost that you can never assume that paying more for something will actually result in a better product. Production run size, exchange rate and labour laws in the country of manufacture, shipping weight, etc. make it so you can't simply look at a price tag to determine quality.
Quote from: Jopn on August 29, 2013, 09:43:38 AM
Nowadays quality control, materials and R&D make up such a small portion of the total end consumer cost that you can never assume that paying more for something will actually result in a better product. Production run size, exchange rate and labour laws in the country of manufacture, shipping weight, etc. make it so you can't simply look at a price tag to determine quality.
This may be true in some cases but is far from being the rule.
Let's talk about the Tayda jacks:
If you insert a 1/4" phone plug into the Tayda jack, look where the tip lands. It does not seat properly. This does not make for a good connection as well as the phone plug pulling out with far less "force" then a quality jack. The metal that the tip connection is made of is very weak and bendable compared to a quality jack.
I noticed all of the above some time ago and have stopped using this bargain basement jack.
This jack is of an inferior design, made with inferior materials, and from what I've read above, suffers from poor quality control as well.
I have built a few pedals for a friend's son........He loves what I've built for him! but.....He mentioned that his guitar cables come out of the jacks too easily.
I switched to Neutriks.
Fast, good, cheap: pick any two.
... if you're lucky, that is. Sometimes you only get one. Sometimes none.
Here's a few more tidbits to be clear...
- The second nuts on the better jacks have a couple purposes. They let you set the depth of the jack and they stop the rotation of the jack when tightening. They also remove force from the barrel and prevent it from spinning.
- A better flanging also has multiple benefits. Firstly, it holds the jack together better. When a cheap jack falls apart during tightening, it's the flanging that breaks. Secondly, it keeps the barrel tighter and there's far less chance of that rotating when tightening. But, you barely have to worry about that when there's a second nut, anyway.
- Technically, when you tighten jacks, you should really not hold the lugs of the jack on the inside with your fingers and tighten with a wrench on the outside. This puts a force on the barrel and jack and overall weakens the jack. The better way to tighten is with two nuts. You want to hold the inside nut with a small wrench and tighten the outer nut with a second wrench. This way, there is little or no force on the jack.
- As mentioned above, a tight fit is what you want. The looser fits from cheaper jacks simply make a worse connection and will most likely become defective in a shorter time.
Like Jon said, I don't like how you have to grab the connector and YANK hard to get the cable out of the pedal. Sometimes it's fun to experiment with pedal order, or swapping pedals around, and it's not fun to have to haul connectors hard while you're doing that :)
That said, for certain applications like valve amp output jacks, where if the cable comes out, the expensive, heavy output transformer will die a horrible death under load, I do want the Overly Attached Girlfr--er, Neutrik jack.
I've only found the Neutrik open jacks to have the death grip. Admittedly, I am not much of a fan of those. They also don't engage as cleanly when the plug is inserted. No clean break over. The enclosed Neutrik jacks I've used have been fine.
I've liked every Switchcraft jack I've used. I find their open jacks to be very nice, with a smooth insertion and clean snap.
Tayda is just all over the place with their hardware quality. Some is OK, but most of what I've tried from them (switches in particular) is really cheaply put together and the tolerances are all over the place. I enjoy building pedals more than taking them apart and fixing them, so I tend to use hardware I feel I can trust.
I have found with those cheap jacks, you can easily manually set the "grip" for the plug. just bend up or down on the tip and insert the plug. Adjust from there if not perfect.
They just won't screw down tighter than a certain thickness, and attempting to do so will gnarl the thread so it spins endlessly.
Solutions: use thicker enclosure, washers, or sand down the socket's edge a mm so the screw will fit closer.
I take back the "cheap" comment. They are junk. Period. No exaggeration there.
It seems to me the majority of folks in this thread agree with me. Making a jack out of malleable plastic material is just a bad idea. You cannot tighten them properly and they simply compress. As noted by several folks, the threads are hit and miss. I have also found they do not seat nor grip 1/4 connectors very well and they lose tension very quickly. You can bend them back but that just weakens an already weak product. I buy loads of components from Tayda but their jacks are too poor to use for test boxes let alone builds. If you sell a pedal with these jacks in them plan on getting a "customer inquiry" shortly after.
Quote from: pappasmurfsharem on August 28, 2013, 10:43:37 PM
No. No and NO. (not that I dislike neutrik, but to say they are far too cheap is beyond exaggeration)
I like their plastic switchcraft style jacks.
This. 100% agreed with Luci.
Quote from: LucifersTrip on August 29, 2013, 12:10:32 AM
If you're going to spent time researching, breadboarding, tweaking, soldering & boxing a pedal, it would seem crazy to skimp on the one part that will be used /plugged /unplugged over & over again.
I've got to say to go with at least Neutrik, Switchcraft on even higher quality if you can find em priced reasonably. There's few things worse than wasting time debugging a pedal for hours only to realize the guitar jack is not making a perfect connection with the 1/4" jack.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-35mm-1-4-mono-chassis-socket-jack.html
I use those jacks all the time. Yeah, Neutrik's are a lot sturdier, but if I'm swapping pedals in and out of my chain, sometimes they grip the plug too well and I want something looser. If I'm doing a heavy duty build, or one for someone else, I'll use Neutriks. For my own stuff, the Tayda jacks are fine. I've never had an issue with them. Not a single one has worn out on me and they're much better than the flimsy crap I got from Futurlec. They aren't that much cheaper than Neutriks though. I wouldn't bother with them if it weren't an issue of saving on shipping by ordering all my parts from one supplier.
Quote from: mremic01 on August 31, 2013, 04:54:38 PM
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/6-35mm-1-4-mono-chassis-socket-jack.html
They are poor quality. No way around it.
No way around it? They do the job just fine. You might not be comfortable using them in your builds, but they work and they've held up so far in every pedal I've put them in. Futurlec's jacks were unuseable, but I've yet to get an open jack from Tayda that was garbage. Their 1/4 inch plugs, on the other hand, aren't something I'd make instrument or speaker cables out of. I used a few to make speaker cables for a Ruby project, but for anything more I don't trust them.
As Luci said, why spend the time building a pedal and use substandard parts - especially sub-standard mechanical parts.
Makes no sense.
1/4" plugs & jacks, also known as 1/4" phone plugs & phone jacks came into being as a way to physically change/switch a telephone connection on a telephone switchboard. (humans were the switches)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/switchboard.jpg)
The switching was usually performed by women, who's hand strength was not equal to a man's.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Telephone%20switchboard%20operators%20in%20WW%2C%201957.jpg)
There are exceptions of course:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/friend_monica.jpg)
The "death grip" that some of you have complained about would have been very bad for these female switchboard operators and for the caller on the end of the line. The caller would have to wait patiently while the operator used her foot and both hands to try to "rip" the plug out of the jack.
In this scenario.......death grip bad!
Now let's move to the modern day use of 1/4" "phone jacks.........Stompboxes.
"Sometimes it's fun to experiment with pedal order, or swapping pedals around, and it's not fun to have to haul connectors hard while you're doing that"
I agree with this statement.......but.....I would rather have to apply a bit of pressure to remove a plug from a stompbox than to have an inferior connection that can be pulled out easily by an overzealous lead singer as he struts across the stage.
A pedal board is not a switchboard!
In this scenario.....death grip good! :icon_wink:
Quote from: Arcane Analog on September 01, 2013, 12:05:14 PM
As Luci said, why spend the time building a pedal and use substandard parts - especially sub-standard mechanical parts.
Makes no sense.
Sounds like you've just got it out for the Tayda jacks. I'd say they're pretty standard. Not substandard. A better way to put it would be 'why not use the best part?' The answer being that not everyone wants them that stiff. I'd rather have my plug pop out of a pedal when tripped over than have my foot break a cable, or mess up the input jack on an amp. Actually, I'd rather it just pop out than trip me while I'm holding a guitar. Sometimes the Tayda jacks can fit into tighter spots where a Switchcraft or Neutrik would short on something. Sometimes it's just what I have on hand and it does the job just fine. Sometimes I'm placing an order with Tayda, and I don't want to pay the extra shipping charges that come with ordering my jacks from somewhere else.
If know exactly where a pedal is going on the board, I plan accordingly. Pedals that get fixed in place get nice sturdy jacks. I want those to have nice solid connections, and pulling them out is something I don't expect to do very much. Pedals that move around a lot might get looser ones. The ones that I'm plugging into and out of often, it's those guys I'd really want to have looser jacks. Maybe someone else would want those spots especially to have sturdier for long term reliability. I haven't had any reliability issues with the looser, cheaper jacks, so I don't worry about it.
In that case, the cheaper jack is the better jack. That's because it has the qualities I want, regardless of price.
I think my biggest beef with the Tayda jacks is the sleeve solder lug. The tip lug takes solder pretty well if you sand it a bit, and it looks coppery underneath, but the ground lug silvery even when you take off the top layer and solder doesn't like it as much. They seem to be made out of different material. I don't get bad connections, but the joints never looks as I'd like them to.
Well, if I just read the above description, I would consider them sub-standard , even if I had not tried them. There are lots of 1/4" jacks out there. The standard quality level does not require rework or sanding to function properly or take solder. Sub-standard also does not mean unusable, just that the average unit is better.
The Tayda ones are, in my experience (which does not reflect trying every jack ever produced) made to a lower quality spec than better samples from Switchcraft, Neutrik, Amphenol, etc. I've seen plenty of no-name Chinese jacks that were inexpensive but well made, so this isn't a case of brand snobbery. I've also found name brand jacks at Mouser for 75 cents or so that had smooth insertion and were well made, so it isn't simply about cost either.
I guess that is why I am not enthusiastic about their jacks (and quite a bit of their other hardware). If people like it, then they are absolutely free to use whatever they want. I'll shop at Tayda for the parts I like from them and skip the stuff I've found to be problematic, which is what I assume most people do.
I always sand my lugs a bit to get a nicer joint, even with Neutriks. I don't have to with Tayda's, but it helps. The ground lug just never looks nice, which is something I can live with. I'm not necessarily recommending the Tayda jacks, but some of the disregard for them in this thread is a bit silly. I'd call them better than average, if only because I've found 'average' jacks pretty flimsy. Name brand jacks are well above my needs for quality. These are certainly useable and reliable. And if they're not, you can always open a ticket with Tayda.
This thread was started over a nut threading issue, and that's something that I haven't encountered yet. If I had ever had that issue, I then I would agree with the guys who say they're substandard jacks and I'd be trying to get my money back. As far as reliability, I don't see what could go wrong with them over time. If it gets loose, you can just bend the tip back into place a bit. They're sturdy enough that it's not going to snap them.
Quote from: mremic01 on September 01, 2013, 01:54:58 PM
Sounds like you've just got it out for the Tayda jacks. I'd say they're pretty standard. Not substandard. A better way to put it would be 'why not use the best part?'
...
I think my biggest beef with the Tayda jacks is the sleeve solder lug. The tip lug takes solder pretty well if you sand it a bit, and it looks coppery underneath, but the ground lug silvery even when you take off the top layer and solder doesn't like it as much. They seem to be made out of different material. I don't get bad connections, but the joints never looks as I'd like them to.
I do not "have it out" for Tayda jacks. I am simply pointing out the obvious. In this thread I have stated that I recommend and use Neutrik jacks. They are clearly not the "best part" available. They are, however, more than adequate for commercial stompbox building - and certainly DY projects. Neutrik will last a long time under heavy professional ab/use. The large difference in price with a marginal difference in quality bewteen Neutrik and Switchcraft make the Neutrik much more attractive. The small difference in price but the large quality dispairity between the Tayda jack and the Neutrik make Tayda's product look very poor.
You have proved my point with your last statement. An average jack does not take any amount of prepwork to have solder adhere - that is a trait of a substandard product as are flimsy contacts, poor tension and threads prone to stripping. The nuts have no locking teeth on them either which is another negative. I suppose these jacks are fine for someone who never leaves their bed room with their pedals but they would be completely unreliable for anything in the real world.
100% agreed with the following statements.
Quote from: pickdropper on September 01, 2013, 02:51:16 PM
Well, if I just read the above description, I would consider them sub-standard , even if I had not tried them. There are lots of 1/4" jacks out there. The standard quality level does not require rework or sanding to function properly or take solder. Sub-standard also does not mean unusable, just that the average unit is better.
The Tayda ones are, in my experience (which does not reflect trying every jack ever produced) made to a lower quality spec than better samples from Switchcraft, Neutrik, Amphenol, etc. I've seen plenty of no-name Chinese jacks that were inexpensive but well made, so this isn't a case of brand snobbery. I've also found name brand jacks at Mouser for 75 cents or so that had smooth insertion and were well made, so it isn't simply about cost either.
I guess that is why I am not enthusiastic about their jacks (and quite a bit of their other hardware). If people like it, then they are absolutely free to use whatever they want. I'll shop at Tayda for the parts I like from them and skip the stuff I've found to be problematic, which is what I assume most people do.
The quality of this video is as low as the Tayda jack.
What's the point of that video? 2 seconds to bend the contacts would tighten the loose one, the same 2 seconds of bending would loosen the other one.
Agree with you though, for all the problems people have with them, the Tayda ones don't seem like a good deal.
Quote from: slacker on September 01, 2013, 03:45:15 PM
What's the point of that video? 2 seconds to bend the contacts would tighten the loose one, the same 2 seconds of bending would loosen the other one.
Agree with you though, for all the problems people have with them, the Tayda ones don't seem like a good deal.
That is as tight as the Tayda goes. I had to bend it to get it to make that much contact and the tip connector is starting to show small cracks. Granted, with a cable, it will not swing around like that but the tension issues are always a problem. By the looks of it, after a few retentionings, the jack tip will break.
Quote from: Arcane Analog on September 01, 2013, 03:21:45 PM
An average jack does not take any amount of prepwork to have solder adhere - that is a trait of a substandard product as are flimsy contacts, poor tension and threads prone to stripping.
I just said that the prepwork wasn't necessary. And I have not had a problem with the plug making contact or the threads stripping. I've also made it clear that less tension can be desirable. It certainly seems you've got it out for the Tayda jacks ;) Regardless, they've proven themselves to me to at least at least be worth defending a little.
I can't view your video while I'm at work, as midwayfair said earlier, maybe you guys who have had bad experiences with them are just unlucky. They're hardly the weakest link in any of my builds and I've never felt like I'm cutting corners using them.
Quote from: slacker on September 01, 2013, 03:45:15 PM
the Tayda ones don't seem like a good deal.
I do have to agree with you on that. They're barely cheaper than Neutriks. They should be priced a bit lower for what they are. But what they are still gets the job done for less. If I didn't want less tension, I would probably pay the extra few cents for something better, but Tayda's are the only cheapos I haven't chucked on sight.
Quote from: mremic01 on September 01, 2013, 01:54:58 PM
I think my biggest beef with the Tayda jacks is the sleeve solder lug. The tip lug takes solder pretty well if you sand it a bit, and it looks coppery underneath, but the ground lug silvery even when you take off the top layer and solder doesn't like it as much. They seem to be made out of different material. I don't get bad connections, but the joints never looks as I'd like them to.
These statements stand on their own. Solder should flow easily without any sanding. Poor looking joints are probably poor joints.
I do not care what you use for your builds - they are your builds and I am sure they are fine for your bedroom where the soldering iron is handy. That said, you cannot make the above statements and insist the jacks are decent.
Oh, for %^&*'s sake... you're really being silly.
You're taking one thing I said and running with it. The joints are fine and hold up to abuse. 25+ builds with these things has proved it to me. I mean, come on, you
don't scrape or sand off your lugs before you solder? I thought that was standard practice. No matter how well made a jack is, solder flows better when you're not trying to flow it over oxidation. Same goes for copper traces. Doesn't mean the copper's cheap crap, and I wouldn't appreciate anyone taking the fact that I sand it before I solder to mean that it's substandard, or that the build is only fine for when a soldering iron is handy.
You're also assuming retensioning the thing a few times will break it. Again, I don't get that impression at all, and I actually
use them. I also don't need to retention them more than once, and that's for maybe one in a dozen and takes maybe two seconds.
Quote from: Arcane Analog on September 01, 2013, 04:06:15 PM
I do not care what you use for your builds - they are your builds and I am sure they are fine for your bedroom where the soldering iron is handy. That said, you cannot make the above statements and insist the jacks are decent.
They are gig-worthy, whether you accept it or not.
The 1/4" phone jack is an old design but.....there are standards.
Let's go back to my previous observation:
"If you insert a 1/4" phone plug into the Tayda jack, look where the tip lands. It does not seat properly."
I ask anyone who doesn't seem to have a problem with these jacks to check out the above for themselves.
This is not how 1/4" phone jacks were/are designed.
A phone jack's tip connection has a detail that is designed to mate with any standard 1/4" phone plug. This is why the end of a phone plug has an indentation.
The jacks in question do not line up properly....the tip connection does not set in the phone plug's tip indentation.
Now either these jacks are designed properly and all of the higher quality 1/4" plugs I have are not designed to standards.....or......
I think you get the point :icon_wink:
I guess we can stick with multiple persons' sub-standard is another's standard.
Quote from: mremic01 on September 01, 2013, 04:30:34 PM
Oh, for %^&*'s sake... you're really being silly.
Not in the least. I am being accurate. If I were looking to this thread for advice on which jack to purchase I would thank the person that warned me away from Tayda's jacks. Do not get me wrong. I love Tayda but their jacks are worthless.
Quote from: mremic01 on September 01, 2013, 04:30:34 PMYou're taking one thing I said and running with it. The joints are fine and hold up to abuse. 25+ builds with these things has proved it to me. I mean, come on, you don't scrape or sand off your lugs before you solder? I thought that was standard practice. No matter how well made a jack is, solder flows better when you're not trying to flow it over oxidation. Same goes for copper traces. Doesn't mean the copper's cheap crap, and I wouldn't appreciate anyone taking the fact that I sand it before I solder to mean that it's substandard, or that the build is only fine for when a soldering iron is handy.
No. I do not. Quality jacks do not require sanding. Copper is a different story - you do not see many jacks made from copper. Again, sanding to get a good solder flow is indicative of Tayda jacks being substandard.
Quote from: mremic01 on September 01, 2013, 04:30:34 PMYou're also assuming retensioning the thing a few times will break it. Again, I don't get that impression at all, and I actually use them. I also don't need to retention them more than once, and that's for maybe one in a dozen and takes maybe two seconds.
I am impressed that you can
let the cables fall out of the pedal unplug your cables, remove the bottom plate, retention, replace the bottom plate and put the pedal back on your board in 2 seconds. Something tells me a player would take issue with that in a live situation. The one in that crappy video is brand new and I cannot tension it enough to properly grip the plug. You may think that cables that do not seat properly and come out really easy is a good thing but you are certainly in the vast minority. I would wager that anyone with stage experience would disgaree with you. Why would you want to use a jack that does not even fit a 1/4 plug properly?
I have used these jacks before. They are so poor that I even removed them from my test boxes. I have also retentioned a few and they have cracked and are generally too weak to grip the cable. That is the reason why I removed them from my test boxes. That, and I like my patch cables to stay in the pedal. Cracking does not happen with Neutrik when I bend them to fit in tight spaces.
Quote from: mremic01 on September 01, 2013, 04:30:34 PMThey are gig-worthy, whether you accept it or not.
:icon_lol:
Tayda's customer service got back to me and they offered me a Paypal refund or a higher amount if I took store credit. Not a bad deal... After several orders, those were the only bad jacks, and I'll still continue to order them. I have read the substandard remarks, etc.
Personally, I think they are fine. I have used them for tons of builds - for personal builds, friends, and customers - both domestic and overseas and never had an issue with build reliability.
You can lead a horse to water but you cannot make it drink.
Quote from: Arcane Analog on September 01, 2013, 09:57:17 PM
You can lead a horse to water but you cannot make it drink.
I don't think its worth going to war over the 1/4 jacks. You have said your peace and we all heard you. It seems that everyone has different opinions on the matter. I'll consider not ordering the jacks in the future if I have another incident though.
The reason every single piece of pro gear I've ever seen has Switchcraft, Neutrik or Cannon sockets is because they are the standard. Not the 'best' (read: military, 'life-or-death' grade) but professional standard. The reason Tayda can sell those other sockets cheaper is because they're sub-standard. That's not really up for debate. Whether they're good enough for your pedal, or have characteristics that you prefer, is a decision for each builder to make. If you haven't been making gear for years and therefore haven't had the opportunity to see how your stuff holds up over time, consider going with the standard.
Very well said.
What leaves me scratching my head is why anyone would build - let alone sell - a pedal with substandard parts. Saving a few cents versus significantly increasing the potential you or a customer will have issues over something you know is likely to be a problem is a really poor idea.
I would wager that if you explained the difference and gave a customer the option of paying an extra $2-$5 for the industry standard jack versus a substandard jack the customer would choose the former 99% of the time. The customer probably has no idea on the differences until you tell them.
If a customer asked me for specific jacks, knobs, leds, etc - I would do and have done that in the past. For the normal builds, I try my best to keep the costs down so I can have a product I can sell for a cheaper price. I'm not a well known boutique builder, and I wouldn't be able stuff for sky high prices.
I also don't have a huge inventory of parts. The pedal thing is just a hobby that makes me a little change, not a full time thing. If you asked a customer which jacks they wanted, where would it stop? Would you also ask them which (insert any/every part in the build) they wanted too? Could get out of hand quick if you didn't have those parts on hand already.
Quote from: timd on September 02, 2013, 02:12:01 PM
If a customer asked me for specific jacks, knobs, leds, etc - I would do and have done that in the past. For the normal builds, I try my best to keep the costs down so I can have a product I can sell for a cheaper price. I'm not a well known boutique builder, and I wouldn't be able stuff for sky high prices.
You can easily mark up another $2 to cover the jacks. That is a weak argument. The customer shipping a pedal back or having someone else repair would cost alot more.
Quote from: timd on September 02, 2013, 02:12:01 PM
I also don't have a huge inventory of parts. The pedal thing is just a hobby that makes me a little change, not a full time thing. If you asked a customer which jacks they wanted, where would it stop? Would you also ask them which (insert any/every part in the build) they wanted too? Could get out of hand quick if you didn't have those parts on hand already.
When I receive a custom build the customer dictates almost everything. Even with small runs I let the customer decide a number of things - top or side mounted jacks, different knobs, LED, etc etc. This argument would only hold water if you built a substantial amount of identical pedals. You are only building a small number of pedals so accomodating for the type of jack is pretty damn easy. That, or, you can simply charge the extra $2 and use the standard jack from the start.
Quote from: timd on August 28, 2013, 10:48:53 PM
I already tried to thread a bunch of different nuts. The problem is what they are threading onto. The shaft was machined improperly and won't fit any size.
sounds like tayda's supplier is the one screwing them, or alternatively, getting screwed by buying from the lowest bidding manufacturing company. You pay for what you get.
Just thought you guys might get a kick outta this since you've already discussed the low-end side.
Here's a Mallory jack that I pulled from a military level communication device. almost solid metal.
(http://www.luciferstrip.com/fuzz/malloryjack.jpg)
^ makes Switchcraft look like something for a DIYer. ;D
Since we're throwing up pictures:
Neutrik jack:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Neutrik.jpg)
Tayda jack:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Tayda.jpg)
I don't know how after seeing these images anyone could sell a pedal to a customer with a clear conscience using the Tayda jacks. ???
Edit: Double Post
Exactly my point - along with all of the other strikes against the Tayda jack. You should not have to explain the difference between the two jacks because you should not be using the Tayda jack for a pedal you are selling someone. It is one thing to consciously choose to use cheap crap in pedals for your own use but to choose to put those in a pedal you are taking money for is just wrong.
Quote from: armdnrdy on September 03, 2013, 01:06:12 PM
I don't know how after seeing these images anyone could sell a pedal to a customer with a clear conscience using the Tayda jacks. ???
Quote from: Arcane Analog on September 03, 2013, 05:28:40 PM
Exactly my point - along with all of the other strikes against the Tayda jack. You should not have to explain the difference between the two jacks because you should not be using the Tayda jack for a pedal you are selling someone. It is one thing to consciously choose to use cheap crap in pedals for your own use but to choose to put those in a pedal you are taking money for is just wrong.
Quote from: armdnrdy on September 03, 2013, 01:06:12 PM
I don't know how after seeing these images anyone could sell a pedal to a customer with a clear conscience using the Tayda jacks. ???
My only response is cost of multi sourcing, granted I am not making pedals for others unless someone happens to ask of course.
Then I just grab the stuff I know works.
I would love to order from smallbear more often, but the shipping and cost of the enclosures hurts my wallet. Granted it's hard to beat Asian when it comes to shipping.
And the last set of enclosures I've received from tayda are perfect. the lid fits perfectly and the enclosure seems much higher quality then the others i've picked up from other sources.
I have never had a true hammond enclosure though. Cant afford it
For those that do build and sell pedals you have to remember that your reputation is worth more than saving pennies on a few essential parts. One pissed off customer putting up a stink on TGP or eBay will hurt you more than paying a few more dollars for quality components.
Quote from: pappasmurfsharem on September 03, 2013, 05:49:12 PM
My only response is cost of multi sourcing, granted I am not making pedals for others unless someone happens to ask of course.
Then I just grab the stuff I know works.
I would love to order from smallbear more often, but the shipping and cost of the enclosures hurts my wallet. Granted it's hard to beat Asian when it comes to shipping.
And the last set of enclosures I've received from tayda are perfect. the lid fits perfectly and the enclosure seems much higher quality then the others i've picked up from other sources.
I have never had a true hammond enclosure though. Cant afford it
I don't use true Hammonds either...they are overpriced.
When I decided to not use the Tayda jacks any longer I looked around on the net to find the best deal I could find for quality jacks.
Once I found a good price I ordered a small quantity of 12 for stock. I paid for shipping just once. I found the best price for Neutrik NYS229 at Allied Electronics for 89 cents each.
http://www.alliedelec.com/search/productdetail.aspx?SKU=70088590
My main supplier is Tayda....but they do not stock everything. No delay ICs, no companders, no vactrols, no rotary switches, etc.
Whenever I write up a BOM for a new project, there is always something that I have to get from another supplier.
When I have to make a purchase from another supplier, I fill out the order with things I commonly use that Tayda doesn't stock.
Actually, just a small fyi in case you didn't see this (sorry for off the main topic). Tayda does have the pt2399 for cheap, and all the ones I've gotten work great!
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/pt2399-2399-echo-audio-processor-guitar-ic.html (http://www.taydaelectronics.com/pt2399-2399-echo-audio-processor-guitar-ic.html)
Back on topic, earlier in this thread I said I would update with the Tayda jacks I just got. I have to say that they actually seem ok. The plug tip fits snug with the 'V' lining up perfectly in the notch of the plug. No issues with the threading. Just have to see over time how it holds up with wear & tear.
This thread has got me thinking about how I'm gonna continue to source parts. I really want to try http://www.bitcheslovemyswitches.com/ (http://www.bitcheslovemyswitches.com/) for my next hardware order since his prices for many items beat Tayda and shipping isn't bad either. So between Tayda and them I would have 99% of my needs covered without feeling like I'm skimping on quality.
Quote from: Pojo on September 04, 2013, 10:09:23 AM
Actually, just a small fyi in case you didn't see this (sorry for off the main topic). Tayda does have the pt2399 for cheap, and all the ones I've gotten work great!
the Tayda jacks I just got. I have to say that they actually seem ok. The plug tip fits snug with the 'V' lining up perfectly in the notch of the plug. No issues with the threading. Just have to see over time how it holds up with wear & tear.
Thanks for the heads up about the digital delay ICs but I should have been more specific. Tayda does not stock BBD ICs.
Try this with the jack that you just received. Put a 1/4" phone plug into it and push it in all of the way. The tip connection will line up if the plug is not in completely.
Quote from: armdnrdy on September 04, 2013, 10:30:37 AM
Thanks for the heads up about the digital delay ICs but I should have been more specific. Tayda does not stock BBD ICs.
Try this with the jack that you just received. Put a 1/4" phone plug into it and push it in all of the way. The tip connection will line up if the plug is not in completely.
Ah yes, no I don't see them carrying BBD's anytime soon :)
For the jacks, I really hope I don't come of as at all biased here...because I'm certainly not. I'm new enough to the game where many parts are only being tried for the first time and many more I've never tried at all. And I have no clue how anything will hold up in the long term yet. But I have to say, they're in completely with the tips lining up rather nicely. The stereo input jack holds the plug picture perfect, and the mono output jack tip connector lines up in a way that pushes the plug out
ever so slightly...I'm talking a small fraction of a mm here. I could have very well gotten lucky this time, but my first impression is a good one.
Or you can simply add "Inconsistent" to the list of negatives for those jacks.
Quote from: Arcane Analog on September 05, 2013, 08:19:27 AM
Or you can simply add "Inconsistent" to the list of negatives for those jacks.
:icon_rolleyes:
As for Tayda's non-jack parts, their PT2399s have all been legit for me. Seems like some guys got some bad ones from them awhile back, but I've never had an issue. Their JRC4558s are all over the place. I think I've gotten three different kinds and I think some of them are fakes. I got a bad batch of 1N34As a few weeks ago (almost all 50 were shot with 3 or 4 giving me something like .8 instead of .25ish), and Tayda gave me a bit of a hard time when I opened support ticket, but they eventually gave me a refund. They sent me a photo showing me how to test the forward voltage, but they were measuring it backwards and the meter's probes were conspicuously outside of the image. Everything else they've screwed up they made right almost right away without question.
Quote from: mremic01 on September 05, 2013, 11:20:41 PM
Quote from: Arcane Analog on September 05, 2013, 08:19:27 AM
Or you can simply add "Inconsistent" to the list of negatives for those jacks.
:icon_rolleyes:
As for Tayda's non-jack parts, their PT2399s have all been legit for me. Seems like some guys got some bad ones from them awhile back, but I've never had an issue. Their JRC4558s are all over the place. I think I've gotten three different kinds and I think some of them are fakes. I got a bad batch of 1N34As a few weeks ago (almost all 50 were shot with 3 or 4 giving me something like .8 instead of .25ish), and Tayda gave me a bit of a hard time when I opened support ticket, but they eventually gave me a refund. They sent me a photo showing me how to test the forward voltage, but they were measuring it backwards and the meter's probes were conspicuously outside of the image. Everything else they've screwed up they made right almost right away without question.
He did say he uses tayda for many things just not jacks.
Sorry, should have separated that post more clearly. The emoticon was in response to the quote. Pojo brought up the PT2399s, and Tayda-sourced ones vs other vendors has come up before. Generally, Tayda's got most stuff for cheaper, but they are kind of inconsistent in what parts they send, or at least for some of them. I stopped buying resistors from them because first is was a crap shoot, and now they pretty much only send chinsy resistors. I'll probably stop getting my 4558s from them too, but the PT2399s have been consistently okay for me.
I was actually wondering about their JRC4558's and how genuine they are. The ones I got have printing on them which looks much different from the ones I'm used to. Anyone know if genuine JRC's have been run with different screen printing, or should they all be the same? Known genuine samples have kind of bold text, with 'JRC' bolder near the center.
Like this:
(http://www.retroamplis.com/WebRoot/StoreES2/Shops/62070367/49DE/5F7E/091B/5434/173A/C0A8/28B8/33B0/njm4558d.jpg)
I can't find an image of the Tayda ones...but I see them pop up in gut shots posted here sometimes. But the letter is all same size and not bold....and strangely enough the KIA4558's I tried have the same style printing....hmmm.
Tayda carries 3 different 4558 from different manufacturers
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=4558
Yepper...I've tried the NJRC and the KIA. Unless I'm misunderstanding, aren't the NJRC's supposed to be the 'real deal' JRCs? Or is it a totally different company?
Quote from: Pojo on September 06, 2013, 10:48:52 AM
Yepper...I've tried the NJRC and the KIA. Unless I'm misunderstanding, aren't the NJRC's supposed to be the 'real deal' JRCs? Or is it a totally different company?
They may be labeled NJM
I'll have to try and take a photo or two when I get home, they're labeled 'JRC4558D'...but the font of those and the KIA's are the same. So that's what makes me question them. Nothing like other real JRC's I've gotten.
Quote from: Pojo on September 06, 2013, 11:40:04 AM
I'll have to try and take a photo or two when I get home, they're labeled 'JRC4558D'...but the font of those and the KIA's are the same. So that's what makes me question them. Nothing like other real JRC's I've gotten.
I find that most of my tayda stuff has a "similar" font, that kind of yellow lettering. It rub off pretty easy, although some of my stuff direct from TI has been the same.
So there is a potential that they use multiple 3rd parties to manufacture the parts. For instance with PC's Foxconn build Apple and Dell Mobos. Not necessarily the same factory but you get the idea.
However I'm not sure if that applies here. Maybe someone with more experience dealing with manufacturers could advise.
Quote from: timd on August 28, 2013, 09:02:22 PM
In my latest Tayda order, 9 out of 13 1/4 mono jacks were defective. The threads have a minor defect that you can't notice until you screw the nut down. The nut just keeps spinning and won't get tight enough to hold it to an enclosure.
I tried different nuts I had on hand with the same result. Has anyone had this happen to them? I guess cheaper doesn't anyways mean better. I'll contact customer service and see what happens. Its almost like they bought a big B-stock batch and mixed em in...
It happened to me as well, though with their Stereo Jacks.
Go for Switchcraft, you wont regret it, even if you have to pay a bit more. Makes pedals a lot better.
I was recently disassembling a patch bay and thought about this thread...
(http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5548/9805024426_7c06d47e1b_c.jpg)
Now that's quality. BBC spared no expense. And now they're gone... ::)
I have two patchbays like that that were given to me for free... which kind of continues to throw a wrench in the "you get what you pay for" idiom ;)
As far as the Tayda jacks debate goes, I'm very happy with the enclosed jacks that I've received from them. That being said, I understand that part of the savings is accomplished through lax QA, so I make sure to inspect that everything is functioning (in this case, the plug is seated) correctly). If I were at a point where my time actually = dollars, then I would put that QA process back on the manufacturer and pay for it through higher purchase price.
The enclosed jacks from them do seem to be a bit better quality, but the Neutrik ones can be had from Mouser for about the same price, so I prefer those.
Everyones got their own horse to back hah? Mine are probably switchcraft or neutrik. I had an issue with some cheap ass jacks that would make a connection between tip and ground if you overtightened the nut on the thread. Hours lost in fault diagnosing. Since changing i havent had any problems. I would perfer a tighter grip on the cable then reliability issues personally, and i havent found a cheaper alternative that i'd classify as reliable. Switchcraft are bulletproof, my favourite but with the price tag. Neutrik are very good. The little wire hole on the lugs of the neutriks can be a bit annoying though.
I'm finding alot of tayda's stock to be inferior. You really start to notice the difference when you order things from a proper electronics supplier (with th associated cost). loving Taydas 9mm pots though :D
One other strike against Tayda, has anyone reviewed items on their site before? It seems that any that I review that look at all negative sit waiting to be moderated forever and never post.
I ordered 3mm metal LED bezels and half were bad. Put in a review to buy extras since they were cheap and some came out faulty, and it's been almost a week and hasn't posted to the item listing. I'd be fine with this if they reached out to me to try to resolve the issue or something, but at this point it looks like they are just cherry picking their reviews.
Quote from: Jopn on September 20, 2013, 06:45:42 AM
One other strike against Tayda, has anyone reviewed items on their site before? It seems that any that I review that look at all negative sit waiting to be moderated forever and never post.
I ordered 3mm metal LED bezels and half were bad. Put in a review to buy extras since they were cheap and some came out faulty, and it's been almost a week and hasn't posted to the item listing. I'd be fine with this if they reached out to me to try to resolve the issue or something, but at this point it looks like they are just cherry picking their reviews.
^ AMAZED I never noticed this before. Scanned through some product pages, capacitors, resistors, enclosures etc. Only 4 or 5 star reviews. If this is true, I've lost respect for Tayda...
Quote from: chromesphere on September 20, 2013, 07:48:51 AM
Quote from: Jopn on September 20, 2013, 06:45:42 AM
One other strike against Tayda, has anyone reviewed items on their site before? It seems that any that I review that look at all negative sit waiting to be moderated forever and never post.
I ordered 3mm metal LED bezels and half were bad. Put in a review to buy extras since they were cheap and some came out faulty, and it's been almost a week and hasn't posted to the item listing. I'd be fine with this if they reached out to me to try to resolve the issue or something, but at this point it looks like they are just cherry picking their reviews.
^ AMAZED I never noticed this before. Scanned through some product pages, capacitors, resistors, enclosures etc. Only 4 or 5 star reviews. If this is true, I've lost respect for Tayda...
I'll post an update in a week or two to see what happens with the reviews. One of the reviews I posted was completely positive, but also hasn't made it through whatever moderation system they have set up. However, I can still see my reviews under my customer profile section (just not when I visit the items themselves).
I do know, however, that I tried to post a negative review about some DC jacks that I got (some of the nuts had poor threading, one had no threading at all) at least a month back. That review is nowhere to be found.
I ran across a weird thing with some 9mm pots I got from them. One of the pots had a shaft that had a diameter that was .012" less than standard, which is pretty far off. The pot worked, so it isn't a big deal, but it does make me wonder if Tayda gets things cheaper because they are buying slightly out of spec parts. I've gotten things that were electrically out of spec before, but this was the first time getting something mechanically out of spec.
Quote from: pickdropper on September 20, 2013, 09:32:14 AM
I ran across a weird thing with some 9mm pots I got from them. One of the pots had a shaft that had a diameter that was .012" less than standard, which is pretty far off. The pot worked, so it isn't a big deal, but it does make me wonder if Tayda gets things cheaper because they are buying slightly out of spec parts. I've gotten things that were electrically out of spec before, but this was the first time getting something mechanically out of spec.
I'd put that on the manufacturer. Those are branded Alphas right? No manufacturer should let a branded item out the door that's failed QA.
Quote from: Jopn on September 20, 2013, 10:35:08 AM
Quote from: pickdropper on September 20, 2013, 09:32:14 AM
I ran across a weird thing with some 9mm pots I got from them. One of the pots had a shaft that had a diameter that was .012" less than standard, which is pretty far off. The pot worked, so it isn't a big deal, but it does make me wonder if Tayda gets things cheaper because they are buying slightly out of spec parts. I've gotten things that were electrically out of spec before, but this was the first time getting something mechanically out of spec.
I'd put that on the manufacturer. Those are branded Alphas right? No manufacturer should let a branded item out the door that's failed QA.
Agreed. I wouldn't expect a manufacturer of Alpha's size to sell off QA rejects as B stock, but anything is possible.
Whatever the reason, it made it into circulation somehow and it's not the first time I've received out of spec parts from Tayda.
We know Tayda has sold (not sure if it was knowingly) counterfeit JFETs, what about counterfeit Alpha pots?
Quote from: GGBB on September 20, 2013, 12:01:31 PM
We know Tayda has sold (not sure if it was knowingly) counterfeit JFETs, what about counterfeit Alpha pots?
Were they actually counterfeiting a brand name for JFETs, or just selling transistors that were out of spec from what they should have been? Multiple manufacturers make different parts obviously, and some will be better quality than others. That's not counterfeiting, that's like saying that a KIA is a counterfeit sedan...
Quote from: Jopn on September 21, 2013, 06:18:22 PM
Quote from: GGBB on September 20, 2013, 12:01:31 PM
We know Tayda has sold (not sure if it was knowingly) counterfeit JFETs, what about counterfeit Alpha pots?
Were they actually counterfeiting a brand name for JFETs, or just selling transistors that were out of spec from what they should have been? Multiple manufacturers make different parts obviously, and some will be better quality than others. That's not counterfeiting, that's like saying that a KIA is a counterfeit sedan...
There's a thread somewhere that covers it. I can't recall for sure, there were several fakes discussed, including forged markings, as well as possible "out of spec" items, but it wasn't a case of a single unit that was off. I think by definition a J201 for example ceases to be a J201 if it isn't within the manufacturer's specifications, so saying something is an out of spec J201 is like saying a sedan is an out of spec minivan. With regards to Tayda, I believe their situation involved Fairchild J201s or 2N5457s that were not within spec (but I could be mistaken). I find it hard to believe that a manufacturer like Fairchild would do anything but destroy out of spec units that failed QA. I believe it was Jon Patton (midwayfair) that had some of them.
I'm not trying to paint Tayda as a deliberate counterfeiter, just questioning whether it's possible they get some of their stock from questionable sources. Could explain some of their low prices.
Quote from: pickdropper on September 20, 2013, 09:32:14 AM
I ran across a weird thing with some 9mm pots I got from them. One of the pots had a shaft that had a diameter that was .012" less than standard, which is pretty far off. The pot worked, so it isn't a big deal, but it does make me wonder if Tayda gets things cheaper because they are buying slightly out of spec parts. I've gotten things that were electrically out of spec before, but this was the first time getting something mechanically out of spec.
I've noticed the same thing. It wouldn't surprise me at all if Tayda's business model is moving 'reject' parts.
Fake or not, Tayda's parts are cheap and (mostly) of a usable quality.
About the fake JFETs, I got some of them from Tayda too, and measured them with the circuit found here (http://www.runoffgroove.com/fetzervalve.html#11), and found all of the 7 the FETs I tested to be higher than spec for IDSS except one, which was right on the upper limit. The VGS
(off) values I got were all within spec, however all were above 1V (or actually, below -1V). I've been looking at the datasheet, and from what I know about JFET manufacturing, it is incredibly difficult to make JFETs consistently and accurately. On the datasheet, which gives values for not only the J201 but the J202 and 203, it says up the top "Sourced from Process 52". What I'm guessing is that "Process 52" makes a whole bunch of JFETs, which are sorted into the different types according to measured characteristics, in this case J201s, J202s, and J203s. I think that Tayda has either bought relabelled J202s or relabelled them themselves, rather than getting hold of out of range JFETs which, in agreement with Gord, I believe manufacturers like Fairchild would destroy.
After I had tested my JFETs, I emailed Tayda's I received my order but have problem Department and got this reply:
QuoteHello Edward,
i am sorry for my late reply.
Have you recently bought any J201's from any other vendor which matches with Fairchile datasheet specifications? If yes, can you please let me know.
Thanks,
Nalinee
I gave Nalinee links to Small Bear and Aron's store, and she replied:
Quote
Hello Edward,
Thank you for the info.
We know both companies, actually one of them is our regular customer.
Thank you for choosing us.
Best Regards,
Nalinee
Tayda does know the FETs are out of range, but they still sell them, and claim they're J201s too.
as far as I remember, ic's are tested on wafers as good/no good. the bad are marked and don't get encapsulated. the tests applied to transistors/fets would be far simpler than for ic's, so wouldn't the individual fets be tested/sorted on the wafer before cutting? and parts that don't match a/b/c spec then would also not be encapsulated, which would make it hard to flog them as 2n5457 or j201 elc.
Quote from: psychedelicfish on September 21, 2013, 07:51:19 PM
from what I know about JFET manufacturing, it is incredibly difficult to make JFETs consistently and accurately.
That depends on which parameter you are talking about. I'd be very surprised if the lead spacing and body size were outside the TO-92 spec.
;)
Quote from: jubal81 on September 21, 2013, 07:19:22 PM
Quote from: pickdropper on September 20, 2013, 09:32:14 AM
I ran across a weird thing with some 9mm pots I got from them. One of the pots had a shaft that had a diameter that was .012" less than standard, which is pretty far off. The pot worked, so it isn't a big deal, but it does make me wonder if Tayda gets things cheaper because they are buying slightly out of spec parts. I've gotten things that were electrically out of spec before, but this was the first time getting something mechanically out of spec.
I've noticed the same thing. It wouldn't surprise me at all if Tayda's business model is moving 'reject' parts.
I'm sure this is at least partially the case. I just got a batch of knobs and the set screws on some were pretty messed up. They worked, but the screws looked like a bodybuilder had overtightened them!
JFets are known for variability in manufacturing, which is why their tolerances are fairly wide. R.G Keen wrote a good bit about this in his article on JFet matching. The JFet specs are generally chosen so that the manufacturer can get high yield. The complaints about JFets from Tayda is that they are already outside of the acceptable tolerances defined by the manufacturer
So what is going on is either:
A). The parts are real but out of spec or
B). The parts are relabeled versions of a different, less desirable JFet.
I've purchased JFets from China through a supposedly reputable dealer and ended up with type B. they were clearly not the j201s that I thought I was buying.
As far as the Tayda parts go, I have no idea what they are shipping. It is very possible they just buy from various sources in Asia and take it on good faith that they are getting what they order.
Quote from: pickdropper on September 23, 2013, 10:35:46 AM
A). The parts are real but out of spec or
I'll stand by my earlier statement that I don't believe this could happen - at least not with producers like Fairchild. But I'm not sure we can really know.
Quote from: pickdropper on September 23, 2013, 10:35:46 AM
As far as the Tayda parts go, I have no idea what they are shipping. It is very possible they just buy from various sources in Asia and take it on good faith that they are getting what they order.
That would be my assumption as well.
QuoteSo what is going on is either:
A). The parts are real but out of spec or
B). The parts are relabeled versions of a different, less desirable JFet.
the "out of spec" parts would not leave the fabrication area. manufacturers are not going to cut bad die and stick them into to92's if they can't sort them into some part #, ie, is within spec. I reckon the dodgy parts must all be re-numbered, because they must all conform to some spec to get out of the factory.
surely.
[edit:] why have I suddenly completely fergotten the # of the plastic transistor package?
..every time I scroll past this thread,i read "old spice vs quality"...wtf....over and out...
J