FV-1 Full project for DIY multiFX pedal by Mick Taylor 2013First a brief description of what this is about.
I'm sure many of you have heard about or experimented with the Spinsemi FV-1 reverb/multi effects DSP chip just like
I have myself. I have been meaning for a while to bring a complete DIY'able project that anyone can easily build to
the diy pedal forums that I visit. So basically here it is.
I have managed to get this finished with the help of quite a few other members here as well as from other forums
whom I will give mention and thanks to as I go along. The pedal is a simple mono design that has true bypass and has
two different build options. As well as being able to etch a single sided PCB easily at home I have a fabbed double
sided PCB which I can make available.
I believe this makes a great development platform for a simple DSP FV-1 pedal as it has built in ability to
reprogram the software without removing the Eeprom from the circuit.
OK on to a couple of basic sound samples trying to demonstrate a little bit of what to expect, recorded using just a
phone to capture sound and video.
The first vid is of FV-1 pedal loaded with the tape echo firmware called eTap2HW written by Piet which emulates the
sounds of the 'MeazziEchomatic' multi head tape loop echos. The patches have been written to emulate the sounds of
Hank Marvin of the Shadows and his unique sound, but are not restricted to this as many other artist used these tape
echo machines.
The video starts with a clean bypassed sound followed by a couple of bits to try and demo how the echo sounds.The
rest of the vid is pretty much just a single muted strum to capture how the echo's fall with different settings, the
bits where the feedback is turned up is so the tape decay of repeats can be heard.
The second Vid is the same pedal loaded up with a delay and a Shimmer reverb.
Again the vid starts in bypass then has a little bit of the delay effect, the rest is of the Shimmer Reverb as I try
to show what all the knobs do to alter the effect from very little shimmer all the way to a synth like effect.
Schematics of both versions of the circuit, one has the output opamp in a non-inverting gain stage for any gain
recovery that might be needed in certain firmwares, but by leaving out a few components and inserting a jumper link
it can be converted into a straight non inverting buffer as in the second schematic. (right click and save
schematics and to view better res.)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/FV1%20stuff/FV1withgainoutput_zpsa89865f8.png) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/FV1%20stuff/FV1withgainoutput_zpsa89865f8.png.html)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/FV1%20stuff/FV1nogainoutput_zps49898beb.png) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/FV1%20stuff/FV1nogainoutput_zps49898beb.png.html)
Description of schematicThe circuit based around TR1, R1,R2 and D1 form the PSU polarity protection circuit which was described in some of
R.G.s advanced power supply reverse polarity article, different diode type protections can be subbed if preferred.
this is then followed by a standard voltage divider network and filtering for 9V, ground and Vref, and 3.3v voltage
regulator for powering the FV-1 circuit.
Audio to the DSP is input is taken care of by IC1.1 (TL072) working as a straight forward non inverting buffer.
Audio out from the DSP goes through a non inverting gain stage around IC1.2. to convert to a standard non inverting
buffer on the output simply leave out C9,C10,R11,R12 and put a link in place of C10 or R12, which will make the
circuit as in the second schematic.
The digital side of the circuit has at the heart an FV-1 DSP (IC3) with a 24LC32A Eeprom (IC2) which holds the code
for upto 8 programs. These programs are controlled by the PIC12F683 which outputs the 3 bit binary code that the
FV-1 needs to select any of the 8 different programs. The programs are selected using a potentiometer (VR4) on the
input of the PIC chip. It is also possible to use a toggle switch to select a program if sat you wanted 2 or 3
programs only (say you wanted 3 reverbs Room,Hall and plate etc)There are wire points on the pcb that would allow
for this.
PIC12F683 The code for the pic has been written by another forum member called Ian or better known as slacker and
is a great bit of glitch free code. So thanks Ian for allowing me to use this code.Slacker has also done much FV-1 coding and has been a great source of information regarding the FV-1 both here and
at the Spinsemi website forum, as well as having his FV-1 project on the go.
24LC32A chip is the chip which holds all the external programs that can be loaded into the main DSP and I have
provided a way to re-program the chip with new effects code without having to remove the chip or dismantle the
pedal, and it takes about 10 seconds to read/erase and reprogram the chip with new code.
Next post I will show some build and layout pictures, see you all soon.
Looking good so far. Can't wait to see what happens with this in the future!
Thanks Mick,
Great sounds!
Look forward to the whole project!
Definitely a make a go at this one!
Nice one mick and ian..
can't wait to get that shimmer,delay sound...superb.
will you list everything that is needed to build,programme for
for us digital noobs too. :)
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 08, 2013, 10:30:38 AM
Nice one mick and ian..
can't wait to get that shimmer,delay sound...superb.
will you list everything that is needed to build,programme for
for us digital noobs too. :)
Yes everything will be posted and explained with a little tutorial on how to get the programs flashed to the chips as well. Once I have finished posting all the details here I will try and put everything together in a pdf file for the full plans and construction details in an assembly type of layout.
Brilliant, what programmer/hardware would you suggest buying?
FV1 Multi effect Part 2
This second part of the project will look at the two PCB's but will mainly focus on pictures of the double sided PCB.
The EEprom can be soldered onto the PCB without programming it first, the PCB has been designed so it's possible to program the chip once assembled as the whole aim is to be able to write your own software and then send it to the pedal. On the other hand the PIC12F683 chip needs programmed before soldering onto the PCB, I could have put programming points on the board for this but as it is only needed to be programmed once means it isn't needed. Having said that it is possible to re-program it on board if it needs to be (although it would be fiddly to do).
I have designed the board for pcb mounted components. ie jacks, pots and switches. I know some prefer not to mount this way and the the pots could at least be wired separately, but for now I will only be talking about building it using these two PCB's . Further down the line I may release a PCB for offboard controls and switches.
On to some build pictures
Single sided home etched pcb
This is the design and etch of a home made board that was part of the prototyping of the effect and is fully functional, and can be easily made at home cheaply and requires the pots to wired up offboard.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/FV1%20stuff/IMG_0543_zps3e6fd9eb.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/FV1%20stuff/IMG_0543_zps3e6fd9eb.jpg.html)
Next up is the PCB's I had fabbed, the circuit is exactly the same but being double sided is far better layed out and has all the components on the top side of the board whereas with the single sided board the SMD chips must be soldered on the underside. These fabbed boards are also what I am using in my commercial pedal design.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/FV1%20stuff/IMG_0566_zpsb40f2c7d.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/FV1%20stuff/IMG_0566_zpsb40f2c7d.jpg.html)
Next picture I have hand soldered the SMD components to the PCB the pic has been programmed before soldering. I would usually solder semiconductors last but it is far easier to solder these first in the case of SMD as the board can lay flat and there is plenty room to work around the PCB. If anyone want to work from these PCB's I could make them available with all the SMD components already programmed and soldered for anyone who doesn't like the idea of hand soldering these up.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/FV1%20stuff/IMG_0570_zpse31d63f4.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/FV1%20stuff/IMG_0570_zpse31d63f4.jpg.html)
PCB with all the components soldered in place apart from the potentiometers. Notice the missing components just above the output jack and just below the opamp, this is the schematic version that uses a non inverting buffer output stage giving the entire analogue circuitry a gain of one. (no gain). Also notice there is a wire link in place where C10 would be.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/FV1%20stuff/IMG_0581_zps154b65fb.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/FV1%20stuff/IMG_0581_zps154b65fb.jpg.html)
Final Picture for Part 2 is the complete and fully working unit, it has connections for 9v centre negative PSU as well as 9v battery.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/FV1%20stuff/IMG_0590_zps45832fb4.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/FV1%20stuff/IMG_0590_zps45832fb4.jpg.html)
Part 3 coming next, which will deal with software and writing effects to the Eeprom using a PC
Could the pcb be modded to use a rotary switch for the programs?
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=89565.0
Quote from: jk-fm on September 08, 2013, 04:01:25 PM
Could the pcb be modded to use a rotary switch for the programs?
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=89565.0
There is no need to mod the pcb. Leave off the PIC12F683 chip and use the wire pads there to directly connect the switching circuit that you linked to, or even a 3 bit binary counter rotary switch. Only problem would be the physical size of the switch and if you have room to fit it in the enclosure
''Further down the line I may release a PCB for offboard controls and switches.''
cool, i would prefer that. 8)
Nice project!
@Mick
What is the 2nd 8-pin SMD chip next to the FV-1. Is that a 2nd onboard memory chip?
very nice project!!
Nice work!
Where's the best (cheapest) place to get the FV-1 IC?
The schematics look like DipTrace output. Are you planning to share the DipTrace files when the project is ready? (That would be great)
Nice project! Definitely interested in it, so I'll be looking from the side lines on this one.
Quote from: waltk on September 09, 2013, 11:05:52 AM
Nice work!
Where's the best (cheapest) place to get the FV-1 IC?
The schematics look like DipTrace output. Are you planning to share the DipTrace files when the project is ready? (That would be great)
If your UK based the best place to get the FV-1 is probs from Profusion, correct the files are diptrace and yes.
Looks great Mick, nice to see a lot of interest, be great if we can get more people into this stuff.
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 08, 2013, 12:27:36 PM
Brilliant, what programmer/hardware would you suggest buying?
I think Mick uses the PICkit2 programmer, this will program the EEPROM to hold the programs and the PIC used to select them.
If you have a computer with a serial port both the chips can be programmed using that, a couple of simple circuits and some free software. The EEPROM can also be programmed using a USB to serial converter cable. I'll post details when I get time.
Count me as interested, and impressed, bravo.
Quote from: slacker on September 11, 2013, 03:55:52 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 08, 2013, 12:27:36 PM
Brilliant, what programmer/hardware would you suggest buying?
I think Mick uses the PICkit2 programmer, this will program the EEPROM to hold the programs and the PIC used to select them.
If you have a computer with a serial port both the chips can be programmed using that, a couple of simple circuits and some free software. The EEPROM can also be programmed using a USB to serial converter cable. I'll post details when I get time.
^ Exactly what Ian says above. If you have a computer with a serial port then you can make you own programmer very cheaply with a few components and use free software. If you have only USB ports then the Pickit2 for about £18 is the best option, it can program lots of different pic chips and eeproms so can a very handy tool if you want to get into other PIC controller projects as well.
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on September 09, 2013, 09:52:26 AM
@Mick
What is the 2nd 8-pin SMD chip next to the FV-1. Is that a 2nd onboard memory chip?
The 8 pin right next to the FV-1 is the Pic chip for selecting the patches, the 8 pin chip at the bottom of the FV-1 is the Eeprom for holding the programs.
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 11, 2013, 06:11:56 PM
Quote from: slacker on September 11, 2013, 03:55:52 PM
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 08, 2013, 12:27:36 PM
Brilliant, what programmer/hardware would you suggest buying?
I think Mick uses the PICkit2 programmer, this will program the EEPROM to hold the programs and the PIC used to select them.
If you have a computer with a serial port both the chips can be programmed using that, a couple of simple circuits and some free software. The EEPROM can also be programmed using a USB to serial converter cable. I'll post details when I get time.
^ Exactly what Ian says above. If you have a computer with a serial port then you can make you own programmer very cheaply with a few components and use free software. If you have only USB ports then the Pickit2 for about £18 is the best option, it can program lots of different pic chips and eeproms so can a very handy tool if you want to get into other PIC controller projects as well.
Actually you can buy Pickit 2even cheaper. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clone-Microchip-Development-Programmer-Mini-PICKIT-2-/350873107900?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51b1aabdbc (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clone-Microchip-Development-Programmer-Mini-PICKIT-2-/350873107900?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item51b1aabdbc)
I bought exactly the same. This is Pickit2 clone, but it works very well. I think it's a worth spent of money!
^ excellent... 8)
Hi,
Would it be possible to implement a "freeze/hold"effect, like used in that Zcat Hold/reverb pedal, that supposedly uses an FV-1 to do that?
Is such a code available already somewhere perhaps ?
I hope I won't sound too noobish to you codewizzards ...
I am just pondering with the idea to get into some digital stuff ... it scares me a bit ..:-D
Quote from: drolo on September 12, 2013, 06:07:31 AM
Hi,
Would it be possible to implement a "freeze/hold"effect, like used in that Zcat Hold/reverb pedal, that supposedly uses an FV-1 to do that?
Is such a code available already somewhere perhaps ?
I hope I won't sound too noobish to you codewizzards ...
I am just pondering with the idea to get into some digital stuff ... it scares me a bit ..:-D
Yeah that would be possible to code. I 'm not sure if there is any code already available for that at the spinsemi site it's worth a look over there.
Some interesting info regarding this here:
http://www.spinsemi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=161&postdays=0&postorder=asc&highlight=freeze&start=0
It seems it could be as easy as setting a reverb program to infinite ..
There is even a slacker in the discussion, I guess that is our own Slacker :-)
Yes that's me, there's an example of doing freeze using reverb with 100% feedback here
go to about 4:30. The program is a slightly tweaked version of Dave Spinkler's Reverb+HP+LP from here http://www.spinsemi.com/programs.php (http://www.spinsemi.com/programs.php), you could rip just the reverb part out of that and use that as the basis for a freeze effect.
Thanks,
it's impressive what you were able to do with that chip, great work!
Quote from: slacker on September 11, 2013, 03:41:32 PM
Looks great Mick, nice to see a lot of interest, be great if we can get more people into this stuff.
Cheers Ian, I agree It would be great to get more people interested in this and that is one of the reasons I am doing this pedal format, a simple design that can be built as a fully working pedal with the ability to hook it up to a computer and program the Eeprom. I know the spin Dev board is available but I think it is a good option to have a simple development platform that can be used in a real pedal format, weather it is just to load some software downloaded from the free stuff that's available or to be able to write and test software.
I think it could be a good idea to have a thread that goes through some of the programming basics, a bit like the PIC tutorial books. For example strarting with how to read the ADC then write to the DAC just to get an output, going onto how to use a pot to give a boost. You know what I mean, by keep adding to the program to explain in steps what the instruction set does.
I myself haven't got very far with programming yet and most of what i have learned is from taking one of the programs posted on the spin site and worked out how I would like it to be changed. I do intend now to get a bit more involved with coding so please hang around for some of my silly questions.
^ cool. we I need a total idiots guide from scratch... :icon_redface:
i'm willing to learn so i can play around with these amazing delays/verbs/pitching etc etc etc...
has anyone programmed a high gain ( dr boogie- esque/bsiab distortion?..
Quote from: deadastronaut on September 20, 2013, 04:32:48 AM
^ cool. we I need a total idiots guide from scratch... :icon_redface:
+1 .. :-[
+1
Quote from: garcho on September 20, 2013, 12:26:30 PM
+1
http://joefriday-lg.com/spincad-designer-2/
Is a possible candidate to make programming a bit easier!!
Piet AKA echotapper
Quote from: peterv999 on September 23, 2013, 06:13:45 AM
Quote from: garcho on September 20, 2013, 12:26:30 PM
+1
http://joefriday-lg.com/spincad-designer-2/
Is a possible candidate to make programming a bit easier!!
Piet AKA echotapper
That looks like something even I could master :-D
and there goes another missed opportunity to learn how to write code ... oh well ..
Looks great.....still mind boggling to me though... :icon_redface:
I'll have a crack at writing an idiots guide. It's not too hard once you've got started programming it.
^ Yes! Thank you Ian, it sounds like a lot of work but it will be greatly appreciated.
Quote from: slacker on September 23, 2013, 08:18:00 AM
I'll have a crack at writing an idiots guide. It's not too hard once you've got started programming it.
If you need an idiot for test purposes.......
I am just in awe. Take a look back at the pictures thread from a few years back.....see how far we've come! (When I say "we", I mean "you").
Thanks for sharing all your hard work Mick. You are a star.
Quote from: markeebee on September 23, 2013, 04:11:13 PM
Quote from: slacker on September 23, 2013, 08:18:00 AM
I'll have a crack at writing an idiots guide. It's not too hard once you've got started programming it.
If you need an idiot for test purposes.......
I am just in awe. Take a look back at the pictures thread from a few years back.....see how far we've come! (When I say "we", I mean "you").
Thanks for sharing all your hard work Mick. You are a star.
The work that has went into keeping the FV-1 of interest and bringing it within reach of DIY has been down to quite a few of the members from all the forums and all contributing and adding ideas and designs as well as sharing software to use and learn from, my respect goes to everyone involved in getting to this stage, as well as some other designs that will be seen some time soon that I am sure will be coming this way. ;)
I will be putting up the next part of the build very soon, I just need to get some pic's sorted for the Eeprom programming.
Quote from: garcho on September 23, 2013, 01:20:35 PM
^ Yes! Thank you Ian, it sounds like a lot of work but it will be greatly appreciated.
+1. Nice one ian. 8)
Quote from: peterv999 on September 23, 2013, 06:13:45 AM
Quote from: garcho on September 20, 2013, 12:26:30 PM
+1
http://joefriday-lg.com/spincad-designer-2/
Is a possible candidate to make programming a bit easier!!
Piet AKA echotapper
Thanks for the plug, Piet. For future reference, I have updated my domain and new updates to SpinCAD Designer are now at:
http://holycityaudio.com/forum
joefriday-lg.com will be active for a few more months until my account expires, but I will keep the other one going. My next goal is to allow users of my program to add their own blocks by simply importing a properly formatted Spin ASM file. That's going to be at least a few more months in the making because I don't spend a lot of time on this now that I have a new "real" job and I'm still at the concept phase, so most of the hard work remains.
Mick - this is awesome 8)
I'm persuaded now to bite the bullet, grasp the nettle and jump in feet first with the FV-1. Can't wait to start footering about.
I'm in the UK - would you be prepared to sell a couple of those fabbed boards ?
Mark.
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 19, 2013, 06:37:52 PM
I think it could be a good idea to have a thread that goes through some of the programming basics, a bit like the PIC tutorial books. For example strarting with how to read the ADC then write to the DAC just to get an output, going onto how to use a pot to give a boost. You know what I mean, by keep adding to the program to explain in steps what the instruction set does.
I have spent a LOT of time with the Spin documentation, and there are enough typos and things left to the imagination that I think we could do a much better job, bit by bit as you say. I am willing to contribute what little I know.
Quote from: Digital Larry on September 24, 2013, 09:16:01 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 19, 2013, 06:37:52 PM
I think it could be a good idea to have a thread that goes through some of the programming basics, a bit like the PIC tutorial books. For example strarting with how to read the ADC then write to the DAC just to get an output, going onto how to use a pot to give a boost. You know what I mean, by keep adding to the program to explain in steps what the instruction set does.
I have spent a LOT of time with the Spin documentation, and there are enough typos and things left to the imagination that I think we could do a much better job, bit by bit as you say. I am willing to contribute what little I know.
+1 And Frank from spin/oct is always there to give pointers or corrections but it is nice to see people get together and pool resources. There are lots of people that have been working with the FV-1 but it looks good that maybe this thread is bringing the interest of everyone together. I haven't heard from 'Taylor' recently but along with 'Slacker' they are both very involved in the software side.
Digital Larry's Spin Cad is a great drag and drop building block that everyone should have a look at.
This definitely looks pretty interesting. I'd definitely be interested in a PCB when these become available.
^ More than one SubGenius? ;D
My old avatar:
(https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/images?q=tbn:ANd9GcShsJHO6KS__RdP4T_h-NLGC093lSaHZ5azyi3i75UIdia2M8qN)
We are legion.
Quote from: slacker775 on September 24, 2013, 02:13:00 PM
This definitely looks pretty interesting. I'd definitely be interested in a PCB when these become available.
"If anyone want to work from these PCB's I could make them available with all the SMD components already programmed and soldered for anyone who doesn't like the idea of hand soldering these up."
I want one!! This is fantastic! Any idea when (and where) the PCB's will be available?
As interest seems to be extending to the FV-1:
Presently my DIY design based on the FV-1 on the SKRM board to avoid soldering SMT devices is already build about 250 times and includes both hybrid solutions and advanced automation. The parts, including the eTap2hw motherboard can be ordered from a Vendor in the Netherlands so all is 'at cost' without any uplifts. The eTap2hw emulations are all related to vintage echogear and do emulate the specific valve and tape characteristics. To build on the cost is below 100 euro. my blog and some fora ( given on my blog) are providing all details. I'm also very much impressed by the presented Stompbox and clever BCD extension and will support that to assure it delivers eTap2hw performance!
Piet
Www.echotapper.nl
Quote from: scuzzphut on September 24, 2013, 09:15:24 AM
Mick - this is awesome 8)
I'm persuaded now to bite the bullet, grasp the nettle and jump in feet first with the FV-1. Can't wait to start footering about.
I'm in the UK - would you be prepared to sell a couple of those fabbed boards ?
Mark.
I just had the opportunity yesterday to have Mick's unit for testing here. A very good semi-pro guitar player with decades of experience was flabbergasted on all sound aspects of the unit loaded with eTap2hw ( Stratocaster andVOX amp). He played some tunes while I checked the unit in detail using known settings for specific Shadows tracks. It seems the unit is already reached maturity thanks to the expertise/experience of Mick.
There is one remark and one observation that requires some effort: the LED is only for active/bypass and should also take the peak signal warning. This could be established by a multi LED I guess when a new batch of boards are required.
The observation left is the exact hysteresis of the switch position e.a. If the switch is set to 6 would that be the range 5.5-6.5 ? I have communicated the positive outcome with Mick already but thought of also reporting this here as it is a real (s)milestone for his very exciting project!
Piet
Nice feedback Piet. The clipping LED is a good idea, I've done that in a couple of my pedals using a bicolour LED. I find it most useful when making programs though to see if the output is clipping rather than as a input clipping indicator.
The switch code works like this. It reads the voltage from the pot using an 8 bit ADC (actually 10 bit but only the top 8 bits are used) it then shifts the result 5 places to the right so you're left with the 3 most significant bits bits giving values 0 - 7 to correspond to programs 0 - 7. The hysteresis works by only changing the program if the value read is different to the previous one for 256 consecutive reads, this means small transient spikes and noise are ignored. If you set the pot near the transition between two values then it may read either one value or the other on consecutive reads so it won't change, this creates dead bands between each value where nothing happens. I don't know exactly how wide these are, it probably depends on a number of factors like how noisy the supply is, how accurate the ADC is etc
So to answer the question a setting of 6 will be somewhere between 6 and 7.
Slacker,
Great feedback!
Seems your scheme could be improved if you would think around this:
Position 1 would be from 0 to .5
Position 2 would be from 0.5 to 1.5
Position 3 would be from 1.5 to 2.5
Position 4 would be from 2.5 to 3.5
Position 5 would be from 3.5 to 4.5
Position 6 would be from 4.5 to 5.5
Position 7 would be from 5.5 to 6.5
Position 8 would be from 6.5 to 7 (.5 step)
If this model is applied the nominals would be on target and thetwo values on to top and bottom limits would have some clearance.
Would this be a valid proposal to improve repeatability of selections.
Piet
Ah, I see what you mean, that would be nicer than my current method. Shouldn't be too difficult to change the code to make it work like that.
That's great Piet I'm happy we only have 2 little issues to deal with, the first being the clipping LED. As mentioned that can be a simple mod to the existing PCB to add a bicolour or second separate led but on this revision PCB would mean soldering a wire directly to pin 5 of the FV-1 and and adding a resistor. The LED mod can be easily added to the PCB in a new revision so as not to need to manually wire it up.
As for the second point, thanks Ian for the full description of the pic code.
I have also been trying to track down a BDC switch that is able to do the job but has a similar footprint to a standard 16mm pot and at a reasonable price, needless to say this is proving difficult.
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 08, 2013, 12:39:49 PM
FV1 Multi effect Part 2
Next picture I have hand soldered the SMD components to the PCB the pic has been programmed before soldering. I would usually solder semiconductors last but it is far easier to solder these first in the case of SMD as the board can lay flat and there is plenty room to work around the PCB. If anyone want to work from these PCB's I could make them available with all the SMD components already programmed and soldered for anyone who doesn't like the idea of hand soldering these up.
I would be VERY interested in this
I AM very interested in this. When will we know more?
Would the switch required for preset selection be something like this ?? ----> http://www.jameco.com/Jameco/Products/ProdDS/473457.pdf
3rd page - series 94R - octal version.
Side note - I've ordered a couple of FV-1s and a couple of the tonepad reverb PCBs to get started :) The fever !!!
Quote from: scuzzphut on October 08, 2013, 04:45:56 PM
3rd page - series 94R - octal version.
Yes, that's the right sort.
Quote from: slacker on October 09, 2013, 02:19:28 AM
Quote from: scuzzphut on October 08, 2013, 04:45:56 PM
3rd page - series 94R - octal version.
Yes, that's the right sort.
Yeah that switch will allow you to select 8 internal effects along with 8 external Eeprom effects, it would be nice to get a similar switch with a nut for mounting to the enclosure just like a normal pot.
Sorry Mark I must have missed your earlier post for pcb availability. Glad you got sorted with the tonepad pcb though.
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 08, 2013, 12:39:49 PM
FV1 Multi effect Part 2
If anyone want to work from these PCB's I could make them available with all the SMD components already programmed and soldered for anyone who doesn't like the idea of hand soldering these up.
yes please!! :icon_biggrin:
Is there any indication yet about how much (in GB£) this stompbox will cost, either as a self build or as a completed unit? Is the Etap2 firmware available for self builders or does it have to be bought from Piet? If it is available, then from where?
Not sure about UK distribution, but contact Frank at Experimental Noize for the SKRM-C8-eTap2:
http://www.experimentalnoize.com/components/skrm-c8-xxx-reverb-effects-module/
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 09, 2013, 04:57:59 AM
Quote from: slacker on October 09, 2013, 02:19:28 AM
Quote from: scuzzphut on October 08, 2013, 04:45:56 PM
3rd page - series 94R - octal version.
Yes, that's the right sort.
Yeah that switch will allow you to select 8 internal effects along with 8 external Eeprom effects, it would be nice to get a similar switch with a nut for mounting to the enclosure just like a normal pot.
Sorry Mark I must have missed your earlier post for pcb availability. Glad you got sorted with the tonepad pcb though.
Hi Mick - PM'd you regarding the PCBs. Thanks for the response on the switch - I hadn't noticed that the collar was unthreaded :icon_redface: so I'm glad I didn't order any !
Quote from: cackhanded on October 09, 2013, 06:51:22 AM
Is there any indication yet about how much (in GB£) this stompbox will cost, either as a self build or as a completed unit? Is the Etap2 firmware available for self builders or does it have to be bought from Piet? If it is available, then from where?
To everyone asking about pcb's, eTap2hw firmware etc.
I have quite a few pcb's and I can make them available to anyone who would like one, I can send either a bare totally unpopulated pcb, or a pcb with the FV-1 Programmed PIC, and programmed Eeprom with a selection of 8 effects or with Piet's eTap2HW firmware. I am just waiting to hear back from Piet about any final tweaks to be made to the circuit as I am unable to send out any PCB's with the eTap2HW firmware on the Eeprom until Piet is 100% happy. The pedal could be available as a complete kit soon with a pre drilled enclosure.
I will be trying to keep costs down to a minimum any one interested can PM me and I will get back to you as soon as possible.
Would it be difficult to mod the build so as a stereo output is available, rather than mono?
I'm hoping it might be possible through adding an extra little breadboard with some components on it and a stereo TRS socket and soldering jump wires back to the pcb components? ... though I have no idea how to do that :icon_cry:
Looks like it would be fairly easy, the right output of the FV-1 is unused and isn't connected to anything, so you'd just need to solder a wire to it and add a second output buffer on a separate board. You would then need programs that made use of the right output to get a stereo effect.
Quote from: slacker on October 09, 2013, 03:09:50 PM
Looks like it would be fairly easy, the right output of the FV-1 is unused and isn't connected to anything, so you'd just need to solder a wire to it and add a second output buffer on a separate board. You would then need programs that made use of the right output to get a stereo effect.
^ As Ian says above, the right output is unused in this layout as a physical output. It could be used by soldering a wire to it and taken to a second buffer, the only problems I can see here is, to do this and take the output to a second jack socket would require a bigger enclosure and the need for a 4pdt switch for bypass. Alternatively as the output jack is a stereo jack socket it would be possible to modify a trace or two on the PCB to use the jack socket as a stereo out but again the bypass switch would need looking into.
The FV-1 right output isn't wasted though in the standard setup as it can be used in software to use both left/right chls, but of course the final output would be mono. (it could be used like this to get a full 2 second delay at full bandwidth).
I'm not the only one thinking about boxing one of these up in the same box as @DeadAstronaut's 'verb, right? ;D
3PDT swtich to allow order swapping.. suhweet!
Quote from: therealfindo on October 10, 2013, 04:42:24 AM
I'm not the only one thinking about boxing one of these up in the same box as @DeadAstronaut's 'verb, right? ;D
3PDT swtich to allow order swapping.. suhweet!
If you want to put it into a bigger box and have a footswitch to do program swapping I made a little PCB some time ago that has a momentary footswitch and a 1-8 single digit LED to scroll through the patches, if that's the type of thing your thinking of.
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 10, 2013, 07:05:18 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 10, 2013, 04:42:24 AM
I'm not the only one thinking about boxing one of these up in the same box as @DeadAstronaut's 'verb, right? ;D
3PDT swtich to allow order swapping.. suhweet!
If you want to put it into a bigger box and have a footswitch to do program swapping I made a little PCB some time ago that has a momentary footswitch and a 1-8 single digit LED to scroll through the patches, if that's the type of thing your thinking of.
not what I was thinking.. but sounds interesting! TBH, I'm mainly interested in the shimmer side, so I'll try the "basic" version first.
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 10, 2013, 07:05:18 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 10, 2013, 04:42:24 AM
I'm not the only one thinking about boxing one of these up in the same box as @DeadAstronaut's 'verb, right? ;D
3PDT swtich to allow order swapping.. suhweet!
If you want to put it into a bigger box and have a footswitch to do program swapping I made a little PCB some time ago that has a momentary footswitch and a 1-8 single digit LED to scroll through the patches, if that's the type of thing your thinking of.
on second thought.. does it have a (longish) mod patch as well?
Quote from: therealfindo on October 12, 2013, 09:34:03 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 10, 2013, 07:05:18 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 10, 2013, 04:42:24 AM
I'm not the only one thinking about boxing one of these up in the same box as @DeadAstronaut's 'verb, right? ;D
3PDT swtich to allow order swapping.. suhweet!
If you want to put it into a bigger box and have a footswitch to do program swapping I made a little PCB some time ago that has a momentary footswitch and a 1-8 single digit LED to scroll through the patches, if that's the type of thing your thinking of.
on second thought.. does it have a (longish) mod patch as well?
Not sure what you are asking here, can you elaborate ?
Created a BOM for Mick's PCB - thought I'd share.
The only thing I'm not sure about is the crystal - the FV-1 datasheet and the Tonepad project specify a 32768Hz watch type. Is this what you use Mick ?
Power Conditioning
TR1 IRFD9024
REG 78L33
Diodes
D1 10v Zener
Resistors
R1 100k
R2 33R
R3 47k
R4 47k
R5 1M
R6 1k
R7 470k
R8 1k
R9 1k
R10 1k
R11 10k
R12 10k
R13 1k
R14 1k
R15 100k
R16 100R
Rx 100k
Capacitors
C1 100uF
C2 10uF
C3 100nF
C4 10uF
C5 100nF
C6 1uF
C7 1nF
C8 1uF
C9 220nF
C10 120pF
C11 10uF
C12 1uF
C13 47pF
C14 100nF
C15 1uF
Ics
IC1 TL072
IC2 24LC32A
IC3 Spin FV-1
IC4 PIC12F683_SN
Crystal 32768
Potentiometers
VR1-VR4 25k Linear
Yeah Mark, The crystal is a little watch crystal.
Thanks for posting the BOM there are 2 versions of the build, the one using the eTAP2HW firmaware has all the listed components , but there is also a schematic for all other eeprom programs which leaves out some components. I will post up a build for each as soon as I get the time to sort it out. The differences are for volume levels.
ie
For eTAP2HW firwares a gain recovery is used on the output opamp
For other firmwares a straight buffer is used.
I could easily make this switchablewith a DPDT switch (mini toggle or side switch)
The circuit power protection around IRFD9024 can be wired in 3 different ways. By using/not using different components and jumper wires it is possible to use either a diode to ground protection, diode in series protection or the full mosfet near zero voltage loss protection. (best)
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 12, 2013, 11:21:44 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 12, 2013, 09:34:03 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 10, 2013, 07:05:18 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 10, 2013, 04:42:24 AM
I'm not the only one thinking about boxing one of these up in the same box as @DeadAstronaut's 'verb, right? ;D
3PDT swtich to allow order swapping.. suhweet!
If you want to put it into a bigger box and have a footswitch to do program swapping I made a little PCB some time ago that has a momentary footswitch and a 1-8 single digit LED to scroll through the patches, if that's the type of thing your thinking of.
on second thought.. does it have a (longish) mod patch as well?
Not sure what you are asking here, can you elaborate ?
What kind of patches are there to scroll through?
By modulation I mean like on a BlueSky or something - can this do that?
Quote from: therealfindo on October 14, 2013, 04:18:43 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 12, 2013, 11:21:44 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 12, 2013, 09:34:03 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 10, 2013, 07:05:18 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 10, 2013, 04:42:24 AM
I'm not the only one thinking about boxing one of these up in the same box as @DeadAstronaut's 'verb, right? ;D
3PDT swtich to allow order swapping.. suhweet!
If you want to put it into a bigger box and have a footswitch to do program swapping I made a little PCB some time ago that has a momentary footswitch and a 1-8 single digit LED to scroll through the patches, if that's the type of thing your thinking of.
on second thought.. does it have a (longish) mod patch as well?
Not sure what you are asking here, can you elaborate ?
What kind of patches are there to scroll through?
By modulation I mean like on a BlueSky or something - can this do that?
The footswitch or potentiometer patch changer selects programs from the Eeprom, whatever software that has been programmed into the Eeprom's memory is what the patch selection will recall.
The FV-1 can do modulation and shimmer similar to the BlueSky if it is programmed to do this type of effect. There is already a shimmer reverb program available.
The idea behind this is for people to learn how to write there own programs and put them onto the pedal, there is lots of info and free programs readily available from the Spin website. Also there is a program available called 'SpinCad Designer' from Digital Larry which is a simple to use effect block builder, with this there is no need to learn the programming language.
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 14, 2013, 05:21:25 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 14, 2013, 04:18:43 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 12, 2013, 11:21:44 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 12, 2013, 09:34:03 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 10, 2013, 07:05:18 AM
Quote from: therealfindo on October 10, 2013, 04:42:24 AM
I'm not the only one thinking about boxing one of these up in the same box as @DeadAstronaut's 'verb, right? ;D
3PDT swtich to allow order swapping.. suhweet!
If you want to put it into a bigger box and have a footswitch to do program swapping I made a little PCB some time ago that has a momentary footswitch and a 1-8 single digit LED to scroll through the patches, if that's the type of thing your thinking of.
on second thought.. does it have a (longish) mod patch as well?
Not sure what you are asking here, can you elaborate ?
What kind of patches are there to scroll through?
By modulation I mean like on a BlueSky or something - can this do that?
The footswitch or potentiometer patch changer selects programs from the Eeprom, whatever software that has been programmed into the Eeprom's memory is what the patch selection will recall.
The FV-1 can do modulation and shimmer similar to the BlueSky if it is programmed to do this type of effect. There is already a shimmer reverb program available.
The idea behind this is for people to learn how to write there own programs and put them onto the pedal, there is lots of info and free programs readily available from the Spin website. Also there is a program available called 'SpinCad Designer' from Digital Larry which is a simple to use effect block builder, with this there is no need to learn the programming language.
TBH, it sounds a bit beyond me right now.. but I'm always up for a challenge and learning something new. Where should I start reading?
A good place to start would be over at www.spinsemi.com Have a look at there forums and take a look at Digital Larry's SpinCad Designer which is easy to use.
Right, let's get this going again for the weekend ;D
Mick - where did you get your boards fabbed ? Really nice quality.
All - Anyone know what kit I need in order to program the EPROM in-situ ? Off board ?
I've seen discussion of the PICKIT2 product, but there seem to be a variety of options. USB preferably - I've disabled the COM port on my motherboard.
Quote from: scuzzphut on October 18, 2013, 11:40:20 AM
Right, let's get this going again for the weekend ;D
Mick - where did you get your boards fabbed ? Really nice quality.
All - Anyone know what kit I need in order to program the EPROM in-situ ? Off board ?
I've seen discussion of the PICKIT2 product, but there seem to be a variety of options. USB preferably - I've disabled the COM port on my motherboard.
I use PCBcart for board fab, they are the cheapest I have found and have always been great quality. (need to get a reasonable amount to keep price low though)
Programming on board is easy with a USB PICkit2 (not PIckit3). there are 3 pads next to the Eeprom on the PCB which are gnd- data and clock. These connect to the pickit 2 the pedal must be powered to program it. If your PC is quite old and has a serial/com port then a programmer can be made for a few pounds.
I will post a picture tomorrow of board connections for power, battery and program port.
link for Pickit2 - will take a while to arrive from China - but I'll keep myself busy :icon_biggrin:
http://www.aliexpress.com/item/PICKIT2-Programmer-PIC-ICD2-PICKit-2-PICKIT-3-Programming-Adapter-Universal-Programmer-Seat-FZ0508-Free-Shipping/907663951.html
Looks great so far! I finally have a reason to plug in my Pickit2. :icon_redface:
Mick - I'm a wee bit confused as to the power connections and the orientation of the power MOSFET.
Here's how I think it's done - can you confirm ?
Thanks !
(PS Board almost populated )
(http://i.imgur.com/v0ZrP9o.jpg)
PSU and battery connections
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/IMG_0733_zpse831f66e.gif) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/IMG_0733_zpse831f66e.gif.html)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/irdforientation_zpsfb7d58c7.gif) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/irdforientation_zpsfb7d58c7.gif.html)
The reverse polarity protection can be made up in 3 different ways if anyone prefers the diode type of reverse polarity protection.
1. Full mosfet low voltage drop protection (using the IRDF9024)
2. Standard diode to ground.
3. Diode in series.
I will post the pictures of all three ways as soon as I can.
PICKIT, programming the FV-1 instructions are in my http://www.echotapper.nl/images/doc/eTap2hw.pdfb
could be applicable for this beautiful design also ;)
Piet
@Mick
A couple questions if you would indulge....
- The pot that controls the PIC to select the different modes. Is that a pot with detents? Could you possibly link to a good example?
- Will you still be posting a video about the programming of the 24-series EPROM? I have done it in the past with my PicKit2 and an adapter board (Thanks again Ian!) but it wont hurt to get a refresher.
- Board availability. Are there any? Could I get one with JUST the PIC soldered on? Costs?? I already have an FV-1, EPROM, and crystal. Need the PIC :-\
Cheers!! ;D
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on October 28, 2013, 08:56:04 AM
@Mick
A couple questions if you would indulge....
- The pot that controls the PIC to select the different modes. Is that a pot with detents? Could you possibly link to a good example?
- Will you still be posting a video about the programming of the 24-series EPROM? I have done it in the past with my PicKit2 and an adapter board (Thanks again Ian!) but it wont hurt to get a refresher.
- Board availability. Are there any? Could I get one with JUST the PIC soldered on? Costs?? I already have an FV-1, EPROM, and crystal. Need the PIC :-\
Cheers!! ;D
The pot that controls the PIC - I tried to track down a pot with 8 detents but was unable to do so, so at the moment the pot is a standard pot, I have been doing some searching and Piet has also been searching for a suitable 8 way switch. I think I have found a solution for this, as I designed the pcb with some solder pads which are under the PIC these can be used with a suitable switch instead of PIC chip.(its just that a small switch is needed because of the 1590b enclosure).
Programming the "24LC32 - Yeah I will be getting some info together, as Piet mentions above though, all the info on programming the 24Eeprom will be the same as at his echotapper web site. I will make a diagram with the Pickit2 to PCB connections and hopefully a little refresher on flashing.
I have been asked for boards and after doing some working out and adjustments to prices have finally got to the correct pricing. See PM for pricing, It might be against the forum rules to post that here.
Connecting a pickit2 programmer to the PCB for uploading effects firmaware.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/pickit2_zpsd1a62303.png) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/pickit2_zpsd1a62303.png.html)
The pedal should be powered up to program the Eeprom, use a little 3 pin header wired to the Pickit2 and held onto the pcb pads to program.
Hi Mick,
so, ust looking at the board ,I see they're stereo jacks .. Is it a stereo circuit then?
Quote from: therealfindo on October 29, 2013, 12:41:54 PM
Hi Mick,
so, ust looking at the board ,I see they're stereo jacks .. Is it a stereo circuit then?
No it's mono input/output. The Stereo jack socket on the input takes care of battery switching when a guitar lead is plugged in as in most battery operated pedals and the stereo jack socket on the output is because it means I only need to order one type of jack socket instead of two types.
A mono jack socket can be used for the output jack socket if you have one, it makes no difference.
Quote from: bean on October 19, 2013, 07:34:05 PM
Looks great so far! I finally have a reason to plug in my Pickit2. :icon_redface:
Yeah, definitely dig out that Pickit2 Brian, it would be nice to see you join in on the fun. :)
Quote from: peterv999 on October 28, 2013, 08:30:36 AM
PICKIT, programming the FV-1 instructions are in my http://www.echotapper.nl/images/doc/eTap2hw.pdfb
could be applicable for this beautiful design also ;)
Piet
http://www.echotapper.nl/images/doc/eTap2hw.pdf
Make sure voltage for programming is set correctly.
-Piet
SO, I got this working tonight - and it sounds fantastic.
Mick had preloaded the EPROM with some of the community effects and I'm pleasantly surprised at what this chip can do.
In particular - Really good quality reverb :icon_eek:
For anyone building, I spent an hour tracking down why the output was drowned out by an almighty hum.
Turns out the pad highlighted below is not connected to the earth plane on the board - of course, that's the one I used for my off-board jack sockets. Sods law and all that.
My programmer is en route from China and I can't wait to start writing my own routines.
Thanks Mick ;D
(http://i.imgur.com/vaNeg8z.jpg)
Edit - also, in case it's not obvious - R22 is the LED CLR.
Quote from: scuzzphut on November 02, 2013, 05:06:13 PM
SO, I got this working tonight - and it sounds fantastic.
Mick had preloaded the EPROM with some of the community effects and I'm pleasantly surprised at what this chip can do.
In particular - Really good quality reverb :icon_eek:
For anyone building, I spent an hour tracking down why the output was drowned out by an almighty hum.
Turns out the pad highlighted below is not connected to the earth plane on the board - of course, that's the one I used for my off-board jack sockets. Sods law and all that.
My programmer is en route from China and I can't wait to start writing my own routines.
Thanks Mick ;D
(http://i.imgur.com/vaNeg8z.jpg)
Edit - also, in case it's not obvious - R22 is the LED CLR.
I'm glad you liking the your build of the pedal, the two Reverbs are a Room and Hall reverb which are from the Spin web site code which I modified a little. I have settled on a bunch of 8 effects to preload now which are all from what is freely available but have all been modified one way or another in little ways. I will post a list of what they are and see if I can put the .hex file up as well as an attachment.
The jack socket pin you have marked in green is not connected to ground as this jack is used as the battery switch so that when the guitar lead is unplugged it disconnects the battery. If that pin was connected to ground then even when the pedal had no cables connected the battery would still power the circuit and just run flat.
Yeah R22 is the LED resistor and should be selected to suit whatever colour and brightness you like for the LED.
Quote from: Ice-9 on November 02, 2013, 07:28:05 PM
I'm glad you liking the your build of the pedal, the two Reverbs are a Room and Hall reverb which are from the Spin web site code which I modified a little. I have settled on a bunch of 8 effects to preload now which are all from what is freely available but have all been modified one way or another in little ways. I will post a list of what they are and see if I can put the .hex file up as well as an attachment.
I didn't realise you had modified those presets, Mick - nice job. The one that uses the three knobs for straight/octave up/octave down was a nice surprise once I'd figured out what the hell was going on :D Also the patch with delay and reverb is killer :icon_eek:
Quote from: Ice-9 on November 02, 2013, 07:28:05 PM
The jack socket pin you have marked in green is not connected to ground as this jack is used as the battery switch so that when the guitar lead is unplugged it disconnects the battery. If that pin was connected to ground then even when the pedal had no cables connected the battery would still power the circuit and just run flat.
Got it. I only had offboard jack sockets and couldn't wait to box up :icon_redface:
Although the effort is now towards a BCD through a diode matrix replacing possible the potentiometer due to its delicate handling under performances on stage.
I have investigated this present 'Slacker' approach and measured the configuration. It seems that a simple resistor ladder-network is all that's required obviously with a 1P8T rotary switch.
The actual bandwidth between each selection is 0.4 volts. The nominal setting for the first position is on the 0.2 volts and the last position 3.0 volts (also a delta of 0.2 volts to the 3.2 supply voltage). The remaining 7 steps are the mentioned 0.4 volt.
Assuming that around 20 KOhm is an acceptabel value of the complete network this would calculate down to two 2K7 resistors in parallel for the first selection then followed by 7 2K7 resistors for the next 7 selections and finally another two 2K7 resistors in parallel connected to the 3.2 volts This also makes the tolerance build-up to stay fully within a working range.
Quote from: peterv999 on November 04, 2013, 02:30:59 PM
Although the effort is now towards a BCD through a diode matrix replacing possible the potentiometer due to its delicate handling under performances on stage.
I have investigated this present 'Slacker' approach and measured the configuration. It seems that a simple resistor ladder-network is all that's required obviously with a 1P8T rotary switch.
The actual bandwidth between each selection is 0.4 volts. The nominal setting for the first position is on the 0.2 volts and the last position 3.0 volts (also a delta of 0.2 volts to the 3.2 supply voltage). The remaining 7 steps are the mentioned 0.4 volt.
Assuming that around 20 KOhm is an acceptabel value of the complete network this would calculate down to two 2K7 resistors in parallel for the first selection then followed by 7 2K7 resistors for the next 7 selections and finally another two 2K7 resistors in parallel connected to the 3.2 volts This also makes the tolerance build-up to stay fully within a working range.
Thanks for this extra information Piet, that's great. The switches I have been waiting on have arrived today and I am about to start making up a couple of different ways to use the switch. As you say I was going to start with the 1p8w with diodes first which would mean the PIC could be left off the pcb altogether.
I will try out the resistor ladder that you have outlined above as this will have fewer components along with other advantages of being an easy replacement for the pot.
Brilliant stuff, Piet.
On switches - I've found these from China (UK ebay, but I'm sure they're available all over) ---> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pole-8-Position-PANEL-PCB-Wiring-ROTARY-SWITCH-1P8T-q-/180699868121?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a128d2bd9
Also found this one from the Spin forums - it's binary coded - >
http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/rotary-switches/6553235/?searchTerm=655+3235&relevancy-data=636F3D3126696E3D4931384E525353746F636B4E756D6265724D504E266C753D656E266D6D3D6D61746368616C6C26706D3D5E5C647B337D5B5C732D2F255C2E2C5D5C647B332C347D2426706F3D313426736E3D592673743D52535F53544F434B5F4E554D424552267573743D36353520333233352677633D4E4F4E4526#header
The switches I received today are these ones http://www.musikding.de/Print-rotary-switch-1P8T (http://www.musikding.de/Print-rotary-switch-1P8T) I have just breadboarded Piet's resistor ladder and it works great. These switches are cheap enough but more importantly are small enough to replace a 16mm pot in a small enclosure and they feel good quality too.
I will be making up a small PCB for the switch and resistors but this could easily be knocked up on a piece of vero board with SMD resistors just soldered across the tracks. Then its just a case of replacing the pot with the switch (same 3 wire pads on the PCB).
Great work Piet.
Quote from: scuzzphut on November 04, 2013, 04:48:58 PM
Brilliant stuff, Piet.
On switches - I've found these from China (UK ebay, but I'm sure they're available all over) ---> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pole-8-Position-PANEL-PCB-Wiring-ROTARY-SWITCH-1P8T-q-/180699868121?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a128d2bd9
They're not actually 8 position switches, they're 12 position with the washer set to allow only 8 positions. They will work but the 8 positions will only take up 2/3rds of the rotation.
Quote from: slacker on November 05, 2013, 03:37:37 AM
Quote from: scuzzphut on November 04, 2013, 04:48:58 PM
Brilliant stuff, Piet.
On switches - I've found these from China (UK ebay, but I'm sure they're available all over) ---> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pole-8-Position-PANEL-PCB-Wiring-ROTARY-SWITCH-1P8T-q-/180699868121?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a128d2bd9
They're not actually 8 position switches, they're 12 position with the washer set to allow only 8 positions. They will work but the 8 positions will only take up 2/3rds of the rotation.
I've just been testing out a little switch setup that I knocked up today and it is working great and is a direct replacement for the pot.
Small etched pcb
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/IMG_0781_zps0439e02d.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/IMG_0781_zps0439e02d.jpg.html)
Fully soldered up ready to replace the pot
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/IMG_0783_zpsb4b14a34.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/IMG_0783_zpsb4b14a34.jpg.html)
Quote from: Ice-9 on November 05, 2013, 10:44:04 AM
Quote from: slacker on November 05, 2013, 03:37:37 AM
Quote from: scuzzphut on November 04, 2013, 04:48:58 PM
Brilliant stuff, Piet.
On switches - I've found these from China (UK ebay, but I'm sure they're available all over) ---> http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-Pole-8-Position-PANEL-PCB-Wiring-ROTARY-SWITCH-1P8T-q-/180699868121?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a128d2bd9
They're not actually 8 position switches, they're 12 position with the washer set to allow only 8 positions. They will work but the 8 positions will only take up 2/3rds of the rotation.
I've just been testing out a little switch setup that I knocked up today and it is working great and is a direct replacement for the pot.
Small etched pcb
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/IMG_0781_zps0439e02d.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/IMG_0781_zps0439e02d.jpg.html)
Fully soldered up ready to replace the pot
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/IMG_0783_zpsb4b14a34.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/IMG_0783_zpsb4b14a34.jpg.html)
nice! Glad I haven't started building mine yet.. will still be able to incorporate this :)
Would it be possible to use normal resistors with this little daughterboard? Or is it too tight?
Very nice, if you want to use a switch though wouldn't it make more sense to ditch the PIC and use a diode matrix instead. Takes about the same number of components and an extra wire or two between the switch and the board.
Quote from: slacker on November 05, 2013, 11:34:56 AM
Very nice, if you want to use a switch though wouldn't it make more sense to ditch the PIC and use a diode matrix instead. Takes about the same number of components and an extra wire or two between the switch and the board.
That's exactly what I was going to do originally but this resistor/switch combination can be soldered directly in place of the pot (less offboard wiring to do but added cost of the pic). If I do a PCB revision later I will most likely have a look at the diode route without the pic but what I really want is a good small suitable BCD encoder. I'm still looking for these hard to find gubbins.
@Therealfindo I will see if I can knock up a through hole version of this. It's one of those instances where size does matter. lol
Fair enough. Yeah I gave up on looking for BCD/HEX switches pretty early on, the best I found were the same ones scuzzphut posted but these are a bit big if you're trying to build a compact pedal, plus they're a D shaft which limits your knob choice.
I've just been looking at rotary encoders instead of switches you can get small ones of these with detents for a couple of quid, one of those and a PIC might not be a bad way to go. The detents would reduce the chance of accidentally turning the pot and changing the patch if that's the objection to using a pot, I assume that's what Piet was referring to earlier.
By the way, if you're interested I've tweaked my code to run on a cheaper 12F615 PIC, about 30p less for the DIP version. This is a direct replacement for the earlier version, there are cheaper PICs you could use but the pinout would have to change.
;3 bit glitchless A2D converter
;Version 2 12/10/2013
; __________
; VDD ---| |--- VSS
; ---| 12F615 |--- Bit 0
; CV In ---| |--- Bit 1
; ---|________|--- Bit 2
list p=12F615
#include <p12f615.inc>
__config (_INTRC_OSC_NOCLKOUT & _WDT_OFF & _PWRTE_OFF & _MCLRE_OFF & _CP_OFF & _BOREN_OFF)
cblock 0x40
new
current
count
endc
org 0
Start:
banksel GPIO
clrf GPIO ;clear GPIO
movlw 07h
movwf CMCON0 ;turn off comparators
banksel ANSEL
movlw b'00010000' ;set pin3 as input rest as output
movwf TRISIO
banksel ANSEL
movlw b'00011000' ;set pin3 as analogue input (AN3)
movwf ANSEL
banksel ADCON0
movlw b'00001101' ;turn on ADC on AN3 left justified
movwf ADCON0
Mainloop:
nop ;wait for a bit
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
banksel ADCON0
bsf ADCON0,GO ;Do ADC
btfsc ADCON0,GO
goto $-1
banksel ADRESH
movf ADRESH,w
movwf new ;write upper 8 bits to new register
swapf new,f ;swap upper and lower bits
rrf new,w ;move 1 step to the right bits 5,6,7 now in positions 0,1,2
andlw b'00000111' ;clear 5 upper bits
movwf new ;write back to new register
subwf current,w ;subtract from current value
skpz ;skip next line if zero ie:- new = current
goto counter ;if new <> current goto counter
movlw b'11111111' ;reset count to 255
movwf count
goto Mainloop ;back to the start
counter:
decfsz count,f ;deduct 1 from count, if count = 0 skip the next line
goto Mainloop ;if count > 0 go back to the start
movf new,w ;if count = 0 move value of new to current
movwf current
banksel GPIO
movwf GPIO ;and send to GPIO
goto Mainloop ;back to the start
end
Quote from: slacker on November 05, 2013, 01:30:58 PM
Fair enough. Yeah I gave up on looking for BCD/HEX switches pretty early on, the best I found were the same ones scuzzphut posted but these are a bit big if you're trying to build a compact pedal, plus they're a D shaft which limits your knob choice.
Nobody wants limited knob choice. :o
Actually, I never thought of that, Slacker. I've gone ahead and ordered a few, will report here with my findings.
@Slacker, Cheers Ian for the updated code to work with the 12f615.
I think it's an advantage to have a click/detent to the program selection on stage in a live situation and the easiest way would have been a pot with 8 detents but this would have been a custom order and would have to be in the thousands to have made. :o
How are things getting on with your FV-1 design I'm looking forward to seeing where you might take it.
@scuzzphut, I have used those switches before in other FV-1 projects but I used the gray code binary version. It was possible to select between 2 and 12 switch positions by using the tabbed washer to limit the switch. They are ok but a bit cheap quality. I didn't consider them in this FV-1 for space and quality reasons. The switches I am now testing seem good quality and are a good price and small size. This really is a case of size matters.
Greetings, I am working on an Arduino shield for the FV-1 as an approach to building a multi-effect unit out of an FV-1 or three. Where it stands now - I have a breadboarded version, and some very basic arduino code to control the chip everything. I also have a single-sided pcb designed, and will be ordering parts once I feel that it is refined enough. It's still early in the prototype phase, but it's an exciting place to be, calling up programs from the arduino and controlling the 'pot' inputs from the PWM pins already on the board. The 3.3v supply on the Arduino Uno seems to run the fv-1 without any problems. I also use LEDs as program indicators. The Arduino logic runs at 5v, and needs to be dropped to 3.3v for the fv-1. It turns out that some common red LEDs are perfect for this.
One problem: Some extra noise is coming through, and my initial thought was that the PWM osciallation from the arduino was causing it, but the frequency of the noise is much higher than that produced in PWM mode.
Quote from: ketterman on November 10, 2013, 12:31:29 AM
Greetings, I am working on an Arduino shield for the FV-1 as an approach to building a multi-effect unit out of an FV-1 or three. Where it stands now - I have a breadboarded version, and some very basic arduino code to control the chip everything. I also have a single-sided pcb designed, and will be ordering parts once I feel that it is refined enough. It's still early in the prototype phase, but it's an exciting place to be, calling up programs from the arduino and controlling the 'pot' inputs from the PWM pins already on the board. The 3.3v supply on the Arduino Uno seems to run the fv-1 without any problems. I also use LEDs as program indicators. The Arduino logic runs at 5v, and needs to be dropped to 3.3v for the fv-1. It turns out that some common red LEDs are perfect for this.
One problem: Some extra noise is coming through, and my initial thought was that the PWM osciallation from the arduino was causing it, but the frequency of the noise is much higher than that produced in PWM mode.
Here is a complete interface from an Arduino to the FV-1 unit:
(http://img.tapatalk.com/d/13/11/11/uje5e5ah.jpg)
It is already be used including extensive code to automate FV-1 based designed. The board shown is called the universal I/O board that takes different configurations like I2C LCD displays or Adafruit's LCD shield. The automation is also including MIDI and the 5 tactile button configuration can be changed to a rotary. Yes, this setup does stores patches and/or allows for changing,adding and deleting patches.
Piet
Hi Piet, I am already very familiar with your work and I also plan to build an eTap2Hw unit in the near future. I mentioned to Frank that I would like to add your SKRM-C8-eTap2 module to my next order in that regard. I am a big fan of your work and it was part of the inspiration to move in the direction I am taking with the Arduino shield. I've been spending a lot of time with this chip and I am exploring a few different ideas, including the inspired ones I am seeing here.
The shield I am working on places the fv-1 on the shield along with a bevy of surface mount components. After I got about a third of the way through the design I ran across the audio codec shield here:
http://www.openmusiclabs.com/projects/codec-shield/
It looks a little like what I am aiming for with this project. I will post the details once I get a working prototype.
I am glad to see the work here in designing a better rotary switch as well. I had all but given up on the idea of using them until I checked back into this thread a couple of days ago. I used a rotary in two of my projects and they feel cheap like the ones from old televisions from the 70s. They were always stripped, broken or felt like they were on the verge of being stripped or broken.
Best Regards -
Brian
Hi Brian
I look forward to seeing how you progress with this shield, I have looked at Piet's and Phil's work over at the etapper website and it looks really impressive.
About the rotary switch, trying to get a good quality suitable switch has been really difficult. The switches being tried out at the moment work but I'm not 1005 happy with the 6mm plastic d shape shaft. Thw binary 8 postion switch I would like to get is made by Belton but I have been unable to source these anywhere in Europe. Profusion who supply the FV-1 chips sell a Belton switch and when I contacted them about the specs say they were thinking of stocking the correct one for the FV-1 but if they do decide to stock it, it won't be in the near future. :icon_frown:
Brian,
Great to know of your initiative!
My mentioning of the work we've done was just to assure you're aware of it avoiding efforts re-inventing. One of the items that could help you is the understanding of the automation that's already in a mature state. I'm sure there are some lessons-learned. You'll find on my blog's etap2hw menu a direct link to the automation.
If building my design assure you're familiar with the bulletins on my blog most written by others making eTap2hw even better than design intend 8-)
Quote from: ketterman on November 10, 2013, 12:31:29 AM
Greetings, I am working on an Arduino shield for the FV-1 as an approach to building a multi-effect unit out of an FV-1 or three. Where it stands now - I have a breadboarded version, and some very basic arduino code to control the chip everything. I also have a single-sided pcb designed, and will be ordering parts once I feel that it is refined enough. It's still early in the prototype phase, but it's an exciting place to be, calling up programs from the arduino and controlling the 'pot' inputs from the PWM pins already on the board. The 3.3v supply on the Arduino Uno seems to run the fv-1 without any problems. I also use LEDs as program indicators. The Arduino logic runs at 5v, and needs to be dropped to 3.3v for the fv-1. It turns out that some common red LEDs are perfect for this.
One problem: Some extra noise is coming through, and my initial thought was that the PWM osciallation from the arduino was causing it, but the frequency of the noise is much higher than that produced in PWM mode.
Hi,
If you look at Piet's Echotapper Blog you will see among the August Workshop Bulletins an inductor based noise isolation circuit which we had to design for the eTap2hw automation. It helps to prevent the internal bus noise of the Arduino getting into the FV-1 DSP power and creating the sort of higher frequency interference noise you are hearing. The Arduino automation coded by Philip Hawthorne is now very stable and elegant and also has the advantage of a PC or MAC based librarian/editor connected to the Arduino by USB for patch editing, storage and re-arrangement of order to suit a particular live set etc. The Automation can also be run in a "live" mode such that the front panel pots control the FV-1 while you can hear the changing echo sound, when you are happy you can save and name the patch from the front panel via either push buttons or rotary encoder. These features coupled with the possibility of MIDI patch control and USB access to the Arduino for updating the Automation makes the system flexible and very gig friendly. All in all a well thought out piece of kit.
Regards,
Steve Mitchell
I'm just posting a list of what effects are on the Eeprom and what each control potentiometer does. Also a BOM for building, I will also post some soundclips of each effect as soon as I can.
Eeprom effects pre programmed.
EFFECT POT0 POT1 POT2
1. Reverb Room Damping Rev level Decay
2. Reverb Hall Damping Rev level Decay
3. ShimmerVerb Feedback Dry/Wet Mix Shimmer level
4. Octaver Octave + level Octave - level Dry level
5. Rev/Chorus Chorus Width Rev level Chorus Rate
6. Rev/Flanger Flanger Depth Rev level Flanger Rate
7. Rev/Phaser Phaser Width Rev level Phaser Rate
8. Rev/Auto wah Wah Filter Q Rev level Wah Sensitivity
Effects 1 and 2 are modified Room and Hall Reverbs giving good control of all parameters. Decay is from very tight and
small to open and large (almost 30 seconds of decay).
Effect 3 is a Shimmer reverb and is still being worked on to improve it. Initial program from the Spin website written by
Ronaldb
Effect 4 is an octaver, the 3 controls are all level controls for the dry, octave up and octave down signals. This is a
MicroPOG work alike. I believe Frank wrote this one (One of the Spin FV-1 designers)
Effect 5-8 are all from the Spin website guitar demo programs with some small modifictions.
The firmware on the pic was written by Ian (Slacker) Thanks Ian.
Thanks to Kieth Barr for Designing the FV-1.
FV-1 PCB parts list (Multi Effect)
R1 = 100K C1 = 100uf electro
R2 = 33 Ohm C2 = 10uf electro
R3 = 47K C3 = 100nf
R4 = 47K C4 = 10uf electro
R5 = 1M C5 = 100nf
R6 = Fit jumper wire C6 = 1uf 16v electro
R7 = 470K C7 = 1nf
R8 = 1K C8 = 1uf 16v electro
R9 = 1K C9 = Not Fitted
R10 = 1K C10 = Not Fitted
R11 = Not Fitted C11 = 10uf electro
R12 = Fit jumper wire C12 = 1uf electro
R13 = 1K C13 = 47pf ceramic
R14 = Fit jumper wire C14 = 100n
R15 = 100K C15 = 1uf electro
R16 = 100 Ohm
R17 = 10K
R22 = 4K7 (LED current resistor) X1 =32.768khz Watch Crystal
Rx = 100K
VR1 = 50Kb TR1 = IRFD9024
VR2 = 50Kb D1 = BZX55c 10v Zenner
VR3 = 50Kb Reg = 78L33 (3.3v regulator)
VR4 = 50Kb (or switch assembly) IC1 = TL072
IC2 = 24LC32A Eeprom SOIC
SW1 = 3PDT Footswitch IC3 = FV-1 Reverb
JK1,2 = Stereo PCB mount IC4 = PIC12F683
Jack socket LED = 5mm Red led
awesome, thanks!
Hey Mick,
I don't suppose you've got a drilling template for the board do you?
(I could measure it myself, but if you've already got one, it would save me the trouble, and be more accurate! :) )
Yeah, I will post up a drilling template for a 1590b and all sizes for pcb layout , I don't have it on the PC but have it hand drawn with all measurements marked in mm I will post that as soon as I can for now and try and get a cad version drawn up.
@Athos, Hi Jim I've been trying to answer you PM but your inbox is full.
Drilling Template measurements
I use the Eddystone 1590b enclosure and all measurements are in mm and measured from the topface bottom edge of the pedal. I usually place masking tape on the enclosure and draw a centre line then measure the drill points out.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/9e4800b7-235c-4970-b058-e42f4f1c5e00_zps097fb634.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/9e4800b7-235c-4970-b058-e42f4f1c5e00_zps097fb634.jpg.html)
Thanks for drilling template!!
My inbox should now be empty....
Cheers
Quote from: Ice-9 on November 25, 2013, 02:14:56 PM
Drilling Template measurements
I use the Eddystone 1590b enclosure and all measurements are in mm and measured from the topface bottom edge of the pedal. I usually place masking tape on the enclosure and draw a centre line then measure the drill points out.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/9e4800b7-235c-4970-b058-e42f4f1c5e00_zps097fb634.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/9e4800b7-235c-4970-b058-e42f4f1c5e00_zps097fb634.jpg.html)
Sweet! Thanks.
btw, I usually use a non-permanent marker to make the drill markings - it stays on until you wipe with a damp cloth..
Quote from: therealfindo on November 26, 2013, 03:02:11 AM
Sweet! Thanks.
btw, I usually use a non-permanent marker to make the drill markings - it stays on until you wipe with a damp cloth..
Good tip about the marker , cheers.
If you are using wired pots instead of the long legged right angle pots, then you can alter the placement to suit your preference. Also find a suitable place for the PSU jack (left to the footswitch seem the most convenient.)
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 21, 2013, 05:17:32 AM
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/irdforientation_zpsfb7d58c7.gif) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/irdforientation_zpsfb7d58c7.gif.html)
The reverse polarity protection can be made up in 3 different ways if anyone prefers the diode type of reverse polarity protection.
1. Full mosfet low voltage drop protection (using the IRDF9024)
2. Standard diode to ground.
3. Diode in series.
I will post the pictures of all three ways as soon as I can.
Hi Mick,
so, if I go with D1, then I don't need the IRDF9024 (and vice-versa)?
Quote from: therealfindo on December 01, 2013, 03:52:05 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 21, 2013, 05:17:32 AM
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/irdforientation_zpsfb7d58c7.gif) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/irdforientation_zpsfb7d58c7.gif.html)
The reverse polarity protection can be made up in 3 different ways if anyone prefers the diode type of reverse polarity protection.
1. Full mosfet low voltage drop protection (using the IRDF9024)
2. Standard diode to ground.
3. Diode in series.
I will post the pictures of all three ways as soon as I can.
Hi Mick,
so, if I go with D1, then I don't need the IRDF9024 (and vice-versa)?
NOT QUITE.
I will try and upload some instructions and pictures of the 3 types to make it clear as soon as I can.
Here are some pictures and descriptions on how to use alternative polarity protection if anyone prefers this over the better mosfet design that the pcb is designed for.
All three types of protection are usable and the two diode types are what you will find in nearly every pedal design.
1.
I have used a mosfet/zenner diode combination for polarity protection as standard, in the first picture you should notice all the components to the PSU section are fitted as they are marked on the PCB. Also note that D1 is a 10v zenner diode BZX55C 10v and not a small signal diode.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/fullmosfetpolarityprotection_zps53be28a3.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/fullmosfetpolarityprotection_zps53be28a3.jpg.html)
2.
If you want to omit IRDF9024 and just have a diode to ground type protection then do the following
Solder a wire link/jumper in place of R1.
Solder a wire link from 'Drain' to 'Source' in place of TR1.
Fit a 1N4001 in TR1 position. ('Drain to gate' with diode stripe towards drain).
Leave D1 empty.
Fit R2 as normal.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/diodetogroundprotection_zpsd8c6846b.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/diodetogroundprotection_zpsd8c6846b.jpg.html)
3.
If you want to omit IRDF9024 and use series diode protection then do the following
Leave R1 empty.
Leave D1 empty.
Fit 1N4001 diode in TR1 position 'Drain' to 'Source'. (diode stripe towards Source).
Fit R2 as normal.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/seriesdiodeprotection_zps1d9c4fdb.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/seriesdiodeprotection_zps1d9c4fdb.jpg.html)
For the 1N4001 you can substitute it for a schottky diode if preferred.
Just doing up a mockup of my box artwork - Mick are you able to show me where the 1-8 selector positions are? e.g., are they evening spaced out around the pot so I can mark them for an etch? (as I have't finished soldering it up yet to test it)
cheers.
Quote from: therealfindo on December 20, 2013, 02:36:46 PM
Just doing up a mockup of my box artwork - Mick are you able to show me where the 1-8 selector positions are? e.g., are they evening spaced out around the pot so I can mark them for an etch? (as I have't finished soldering it up yet to test it)
cheers.
The scale for the pot control 1-8 positions is a bit tricky to work out as it is more of a between position setting. I don't know if you have seen my other posts about using an 8 position selector switch which is available very cheaply from Musikding at 1.90 euro, it is a much improved setup. The switch operates on a 210 degree rotation from 1 to 8 which I can send a scale to you for. The switch can go on a little piece of vero board with some resistors soldered to it, if you get the switch I could put a little pcb in the post for you ready for the switch to be soldered if you have trouble with the veroboard idea.
The switch and resistor assembly directly replaces the potentiometer wire for wire.
link to the correct switch
http://www.musikding.de/Print-rotary-switch-1P8T (http://www.musikding.de/Print-rotary-switch-1P8T)
haha... clearly I did see it.. because I notice that I commented at the time! :icon_redface: Did you end up getting a through hole version, or is it time for me to try my hand at surface mount resistors?
I can etch you a little pcb and solder on the SMD resistors. I'm etching some in a day or two so if you can wait for the Christmas postage delays then I'm happy to put one in the post to you FOC.
Quote from: Ice-9 on December 20, 2013, 03:43:27 PM
I can etch you a little pcb and solder on the SMD resistors. I'm etching some in a day or two so if you can wait for the Christmas postage delays then I'm happy to put one in the post to you FOC.
Thanks! Have PM'd. Could you please send the scale through too when you get a chance? Thanks so much for your help - I'm really looking forward to getting this built!
Has anyone found a decent right angle PCB mount BCD switch ?
Belton do one but I can't find a supplier in the UK.
Cheers
Ecca
Quote from: ecca on December 23, 2013, 03:26:06 AM
Has anyone found a decent right angle PCB mount BCD switch ?
Belton do one but I can't find a supplier in the UK.
Cheers
Ecca
I have tried to source the Belton switch throughout Europe but can't get anyone who stocks the other variants of Belton to order the version suitable for the FV-1. I had a discussion with Profusion who sell the FV-1 and Belton switches but they also said they had no intention of stocking it in the near future.
Look at page 6 and you will see that I have used a 1P8T switch with a resistor network to control the PIC chip for BCD. The same switch could be used with a diode network to output BCD directly.
The UK sucks for parts, I can't even get alpha 9mm pots or 16mm right angle long legged pots in the UK. I end up paying stupid prices to USA (delivery and import duty) :(
Mick
You don't need to buy pots from US. Germany is closer:
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Alpha/
http://www.banzaimusic.com/PC-Mount-Vertical/
Quote from: MetalGuy on December 23, 2013, 04:33:53 PM
You don't need to buy pots from US. Germany is closer:
http://www.banzaimusic.com/Alpha/
http://www.banzaimusic.com/PC-Mount-Vertical/
Thanks for the links , I have bought from banzai before and although there just in Germany , 1st problem is they don't sell the long legged 16mm pots, second problem is they don't sell or I can't find the 9mm pots I want and there more expensive on lots of things and I have had problems with delivery taking 3 and 4 weeks sometimes. It has been a long time since I bought from them so they may have fixed the delivery times or I was just unlucky.
If you're getting the rotary switch send from Musikding anyway: http://www.musikding.de/Alpha-Pots-16mm-angled-pcb (http://www.musikding.de/Alpha-Pots-16mm-angled-pcb)
Quote from: therealfindo on December 23, 2013, 05:34:56 PM
If you're getting the rotary switch send from Musikding anyway: http://www.musikding.de/Alpha-Pots-16mm-angled-pcb (http://www.musikding.de/Alpha-Pots-16mm-angled-pcb)
Again those pots only have short legs, I have not been able to source the long legged ones anywhere in Europe (yet).
Quote from: Ice-9 on December 23, 2013, 07:01:25 PM
Quote from: therealfindo on December 23, 2013, 05:34:56 PM
If you're getting the rotary switch send from Musikding anyway: http://www.musikding.de/Alpha-Pots-16mm-angled-pcb (http://www.musikding.de/Alpha-Pots-16mm-angled-pcb)
Again those pots only have short legs, I have not been able to source the long legged ones anywhere in Europe (yet).
oh... I didn't realise there were longer ones... I guess I'll soon find out if these will do the job!! :D
Quote from: therealfindo on December 23, 2013, 07:07:55 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on December 23, 2013, 07:01:25 PM
Quote from: therealfindo on December 23, 2013, 05:34:56 PM
If you're getting the rotary switch send from Musikding anyway: http://www.musikding.de/Alpha-Pots-16mm-angled-pcb (http://www.musikding.de/Alpha-Pots-16mm-angled-pcb)
Again those pots only have short legs, I have not been able to source the long legged ones anywhere in Europe (yet).
oh... I didn't realise there were longer ones... I guess I'll soon find out if these will do the job!! :D
Its no matter as you could always fit regular solder lug pots or modify the ones you have by soldering on some single core hard wire to extend them (or leftover resistor leads). With the long leg pcb mount pots I found the best place for the PSU jack is on the left side of the Footswitch.
Hey all,
Well I am finally ready to box this up but thought I would take a few pictures of the build!
Nice pedal and sounds great. I cant wait to get to programming.
The board is a very nice design!!
A
(http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad101/De_la_Fere/IMAG0666_zpsb47fce2e.jpg) (http://s926.photobucket.com/user/De_la_Fere/media/IMAG0666_zpsb47fce2e.jpg.html)
(http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad101/De_la_Fere/IMAG0667_zps76bf91e2.jpg) (http://s926.photobucket.com/user/De_la_Fere/media/IMAG0667_zps76bf91e2.jpg.html)
(http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad101/De_la_Fere/IMAG0668_zps0c337a7e.jpg) (http://s926.photobucket.com/user/De_la_Fere/media/IMAG0668_zps0c337a7e.jpg.html)
Quote from: Athos on December 30, 2013, 08:29:13 PM
Hey all,
Well I am finally ready to box this up but thought I would take a few pictures of the build!
Nice pedal and sounds great. I cant wait to get to programming.
The board is a very nice design!!
A
(http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad101/De_la_Fere/IMAG0666_zpsb47fce2e.jpg) (http://s926.photobucket.com/user/De_la_Fere/media/IMAG0666_zpsb47fce2e.jpg.html)
(http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad101/De_la_Fere/IMAG0667_zps76bf91e2.jpg) (http://s926.photobucket.com/user/De_la_Fere/media/IMAG0667_zps76bf91e2.jpg.html)
(http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad101/De_la_Fere/IMAG0668_zps0c337a7e.jpg) (http://s926.photobucket.com/user/De_la_Fere/media/IMAG0668_zps0c337a7e.jpg.html)
No LED ?
I'm just waiting on a few bits before I'm done..
Quote from: Athos on December 30, 2013, 08:29:13 PM
(http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad101/De_la_Fere/IMAG0666_zpsb47fce2e.jpg) (http://s926.photobucket.com/user/De_la_Fere/media/IMAG0666_zpsb47fce2e.jpg.html)
Athos,
You might want to look at where you drilled your hole for the DC power jack. Doesn't look like its on the right side bro! :-\
EDIT: Nevermind.... I see you are wiring it in ;)
Looking good Athos, I see you opted for no battery /PSU only. Great to hear it is working first time. I'm also looking forward to more people getting involved in the programming side.
Yea no battery. I don't want to add to the environmental problems caused by disposables!
The led is on the back side as I am using a light plate... :icon_idea:
This was a good build though and as I said earlier the pedal sounds great.
I want to experiment with some basic effects such as a straightforward delay. and perhaps a chorus. Then with luck on to the stranger side of things!!
Pic will be on order soon so I will keep everyone posted!
A
Quote from: slacker on November 05, 2013, 01:30:58 PM
Fair enough. Yeah I gave up on looking for BCD/HEX switches pretty early on, the best I found were the same ones scuzzphut posted but these are a bit big if you're trying to build a compact pedal, plus they're a D shaft which limits your knob choice.
I've just been looking at rotary encoders instead of switches you can get small ones of these with detents for a couple of quid, one of those and a PIC might not be a bad way to go. The detents would reduce the chance of accidentally turning the pot and changing the patch if that's the objection to using a pot, I assume that's what Piet was referring to earlier.
By the way, if you're interested I've tweaked my code to run on a cheaper 12F615 PIC, about 30p less for the DIP version. This is a direct replacement for the earlier version, there are cheaper PICs you could use but the pinout would have to change.
;3 bit glitchless A2D converter
;Version 2 12/10/2013
; __________
; VDD ---| |--- VSS
; ---| 12F615 |--- Bit 0
; CV In ---| |--- Bit 1
; ---|________|--- Bit 2
list p=12F615
#include <p12f615.inc>
__config (_INTRC_OSC_NOCLKOUT & _WDT_OFF & _PWRTE_OFF & _MCLRE_OFF & _CP_OFF & _BOREN_OFF)
cblock 0x40
new
current
count
endc
org 0
Start:
banksel GPIO
clrf GPIO ;clear GPIO
movlw 07h
movwf CMCON0 ;turn off comparators
banksel ANSEL
movlw b'00010000' ;set pin3 as input rest as output
movwf TRISIO
banksel ANSEL
movlw b'00011000' ;set pin3 as analogue input (AN3)
movwf ANSEL
banksel ADCON0
movlw b'00001101' ;turn on ADC on AN3 left justified
movwf ADCON0
Mainloop:
nop ;wait for a bit
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
banksel ADCON0
bsf ADCON0,GO ;Do ADC
btfsc ADCON0,GO
goto $-1
banksel ADRESH
movf ADRESH,w
movwf new ;write upper 8 bits to new register
swapf new,f ;swap upper and lower bits
rrf new,w ;move 1 step to the right bits 5,6,7 now in positions 0,1,2
andlw b'00000111' ;clear 5 upper bits
movwf new ;write back to new register
subwf current,w ;subtract from current value
skpz ;skip next line if zero ie:- new = current
goto counter ;if new <> current goto counter
movlw b'11111111' ;reset count to 255
movwf count
goto Mainloop ;back to the start
counter:
decfsz count,f ;deduct 1 from count, if count = 0 skip the next line
goto Mainloop ;if count > 0 go back to the start
movf new,w ;if count = 0 move value of new to current
movwf current
banksel GPIO
movwf GPIO ;and send to GPIO
goto Mainloop ;back to the start
end
I can't find 12F615. Would you please post the code for PIC12F683? Thank you
Quote from: Athos on December 31, 2013, 01:07:26 PM
The led is on the back side as I am using a light plate... :icon_idea:
:icon_biggrin:
Deleted as wrong post
Quote from: kooroshi60 on December 31, 2013, 04:26:47 PM
Quote from: slacker on November 05, 2013, 01:30:58 PM
Fair enough. Yeah I gave up on looking for BCD/HEX switches pretty early on, the best I found were the same ones scuzzphut posted but these are a bit big if you're trying to build a compact pedal, plus they're a D shaft which limits your knob choice.
I've just been looking at rotary encoders instead of switches you can get small ones of these with detents for a couple of quid, one of those and a PIC might not be a bad way to go. The detents would reduce the chance of accidentally turning the pot and changing the patch if that's the objection to using a pot, I assume that's what Piet was referring to earlier.
By the way, if you're interested I've tweaked my code to run on a cheaper 12F615 PIC, about 30p less for the DIP version. This is a direct replacement for the earlier version, there are cheaper PICs you could use but the pinout would have to change.
;3 bit glitchless A2D converter
;Version 2 12/10/2013
; __________
; VDD ---| |--- VSS
; ---| 12F615 |--- Bit 0
; CV In ---| |--- Bit 1
; ---|________|--- Bit 2
list p=12F615
#include <p12f615.inc>
__config (_INTRC_OSC_NOCLKOUT & _WDT_OFF & _PWRTE_OFF & _MCLRE_OFF & _CP_OFF & _BOREN_OFF)
cblock 0x40
new
current
count
endc
org 0
Start:
banksel GPIO
clrf GPIO ;clear GPIO
movlw 07h
movwf CMCON0 ;turn off comparators
banksel ANSEL
movlw b'00010000' ;set pin3 as input rest as output
movwf TRISIO
banksel ANSEL
movlw b'00011000' ;set pin3 as analogue input (AN3)
movwf ANSEL
banksel ADCON0
movlw b'00001101' ;turn on ADC on AN3 left justified
movwf ADCON0
Mainloop:
nop ;wait for a bit
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
banksel ADCON0
bsf ADCON0,GO ;Do ADC
btfsc ADCON0,GO
goto $-1
banksel ADRESH
movf ADRESH,w
movwf new ;write upper 8 bits to new register
swapf new,f ;swap upper and lower bits
rrf new,w ;move 1 step to the right bits 5,6,7 now in positions 0,1,2
andlw b'00000111' ;clear 5 upper bits
movwf new ;write back to new register
subwf current,w ;subtract from current value
skpz ;skip next line if zero ie:- new = current
goto counter ;if new <> current goto counter
movlw b'11111111' ;reset count to 255
movwf count
goto Mainloop ;back to the start
counter:
decfsz count,f ;deduct 1 from count, if count = 0 skip the next line
goto Mainloop ;if count > 0 go back to the start
movf new,w ;if count = 0 move value of new to current
movwf current
banksel GPIO
movwf GPIO ;and send to GPIO
goto Mainloop ;back to the start
end
I can't find 12F615. Would you please post the code for PIC12F683? Thank you
I'm sure it was already posted earlier in the thread but here it is again for the 12F683
;3 bit glitchless A2D converter
;Version 1 05/09/2011
; __________
; VDD ---| |--- VSS
; ---| 12F683 |--- Bit 0
; CV In ---| |--- Bit 1
; ---|________|--- Bit 2
list P=PIC12F683
#include "P12F683.INC"
__config (_INTRC_OSC_NOCLKOUT & _WDT_OFF & _PWRTE_OFF & _MCLRE_OFF & _CP_OFF & _IESO_OFF & _FCMEN_OFF & _BOD_OFF)
cblock 0x20
new
current
count
endc
org 0
Start:
banksel GPIO
clrf GPIO ;clear GPIO
movlw 07h
movwf CMCON0 ;turn off comparators
banksel TRISIO
movlw b'00010000' ;set pin3 as input rest as output
movwf TRISIO
banksel ANSEL
movlw b'00011000' ;set pin3 as analogue input (AN3)
movwf ANSEL
banksel ADCON0
movlw b'00001101' ;turn on ADC on AN3 left justified
movwf ADCON0
Mainloop:
nop ;wait for a bit
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
banksel ADCON0
bsf ADCON0,GO ;Do ADC
btfsc ADCON0,GO
goto $-1
banksel ADRESH
movf ADRESH,w
movwf new ;write upper 8 bits to new register
swapf new,f ;swap upper and lower bits
rrf new,w ;move 1 step to the right bits 5,6,7 now in positions 0,1,2
andlw b'00000111' ;clear 5 upper bits
movwf new ;write back to new register
subwf current,w ;subtract from current value
skpz ;skip next line if zero ie:- new = current
goto counter ;if new <> current goto counter
movlw b'11111111' ;reset count to 255
movwf count
goto Mainloop ;back to the start
counter:
decfsz count,f ;deduct 1 from count, if count = 0 skip the next line
goto Mainloop ;if count > 0 go back to the start
movf new,w ;if count = 0 move value of new to current
movwf current
banksel GPIO
movwf GPIO ;and send to GPIO
goto Mainloop ;back to the start
end
Quote from: Athos on December 31, 2013, 01:07:26 PM
I want to experiment with some basic effects such as a straightforward delay. and perhaps a chorus. Then with luck on to the stranger side of things!!
Pic will be on order soon so I will keep everyone posted!
A
When you get your programmer give this bit of code a try, it is a simple delay/echo program that works quite well.
;Echo/Deleay New delay line (work in progress)
;Pot0 = Feedback
;Pot1 = Echo level
;Pot2 = Delay
;memory declarations:
mem delay 32767
;register equates:
equ potfil1 reg0
equ potfil2 reg1
equ mono reg2
equ dout reg5
equ dx reg6
equ lpf reg7
;declare constants:
equ fbk 0.95
;clear registers and initialize LFOs:
skp run,endclr
wrax lpf,0
endclr:
;sum inputs to mono:
rdax adcl,0.5
rdax adcr,0.5
wrax mono,0
rdax dout,fbk
mulx pot0
rdax mono,1
wra delay,0
;now get delay output, controlled by pot2:
rdax pot2,1
sof 0.95,0.1 ;limit delay range
rdfx potfil1,0.001 ;filter pot value
wrax potfil1,1 ;write filter register, keep in ACC
rdfx potfil2,0.001
wrax potfil2,1
wrax addr_ptr,0 ;write address pointer
rmpa 1 ;read pointer
rdfx lpf,0.5
wrlx lpf,-1
wrax dout,1
mulx pot1 ;adjust level with pot1
mulx pot1 ;square function
wrax dx,1 ;write level adjusted delay out
rdax mono,1 ;pass input
sof 1,0.02
wrax dacl,0
sof 1,-0.04
wrax dacr,0
Quote from: Govmnt_Lacky on December 31, 2013, 07:28:57 AM
Quote from: Athos on December 30, 2013, 08:29:13 PM
(http://i926.photobucket.com/albums/ad101/De_la_Fere/IMAG0666_zpsb47fce2e.jpg) (http://s926.photobucket.com/user/De_la_Fere/media/IMAG0666_zpsb47fce2e.jpg.html)
Athos,
You might want to look at where you drilled your hole for the DC power jack. Doesn't look like its on the right side bro! :-\
EDIT: Nevermind.... I see you are wiring it in ;)
Just worth noting, the 3 slot pads at the bottom left of the PCB are not for a psu jack, they are used for a little spring clip which can be used to ground the pcb to the enclosure. I can't get these in the UK so use an alternative ground point which is at the top of the PCB just above the top left potentiometer, (I run a single wire from there to the pot casing, or simply connect the leg from one of the pots ground connections to the bodyof the pot).
Finished mine!! Thanks Mick for all the help.. it's a great little unit
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/IMAG1845.jpg)
Reverse etched design.. Doesn't do wood.
hmm... getting a fair bit of fizzy clipping...
Quote from: therealfindo on January 16, 2014, 10:34:15 AM
hmm... getting a fair bit of fizzy clipping...
Looks great,
Fizzy clipping ? Did you test the effect before boxing up ? was it working correctly then ? Try turning all the knobs low on the reverb program and see if the sound still clips. I have found a flat battery causes clipping but I think you are not running with a battery ? You could also try turning the vol down on your guitar to test if the clipping disappears. Let me know how you get on as the clipping isn't normal.
The other thing that springs to mind is a bad op amp. Another builder had a problem with low volume and clipping and it turned out to be the opamp.
yeah I did test it before boxing.. but it was pretty late and so I didn't really notice till this morning when I turned the amp up a little (and it's worse with my hot-tele pups).
I tried changing the op amp, but still the same problem, though I might try and get a new one from the store tomorrow, as maybe the run I got from Tayda is bad..?
With everything turned to 0 and using a power plug, it still crackles a bit.
I did install the IRFD9024 the wrong way around and had to solder it.. it took a bit of getting off too, so I wonder if I might have fried that a little.. would that affect the sound if it was a little cooked?
Quote from: therealfindo on January 16, 2014, 11:50:31 AM
yeah I did test it before boxing.. but it was pretty late and so I didn't really notice till this morning when I turned the amp up a little (and it's worse with my hot-tele pups).
I tried changing the op amp, but still the same problem, though I might try and get a new one from the store tomorrow, as maybe the run I got from Tayda is bad..?
With everything turned to 0 and using a power plug, it still crackles a bit.
I did install the IRFD9024 the wrong way around and had to solder it.. it took a bit of getting off too, so I wonder if I might have fried that a little.. would that affect the sound if it was a little cooked?
With the builds I have made I use a guitar with really hot humbucker pickups (Seymour duncans and EVH pickups) and don't get any clipping, so even a hot tele pickup should be ok.
Are you using the guitar into the pedal then into the amp or is it somewhere in an effects chain ?
Can you try in your amps Fx loop. (best place for reverbs and delays) and see your results.
The IRFD9024 is there for polarity protection in case power is applied the wrong way round, so if the pedal is working then the 9024 should be ok.
Are you using a battery ?? (a dud battery will cause clipping for sure)
Also does turning the volume control on the guitar down eliminate the clipping ?
Might be worth double checking the soldering on the Fv1. On one of my builds I had a bad joint and the chip worked but the signal was distorted.
Ok... so I picked up a new TL072 (a TI one) but still no improvement. The FV-1 solder looks good.
Here's a sound demo (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/wingnut-problem.mp3) (using a PSU, not a battery.. excuse the playing):
First is with the unit in the amp's fx loop
0:00 - Off
0:16 - On (all three pots at 0)
0:27 - On (pots turned up a bit)
Then with it before the amp:
0:41 - Off
0:52 - On
I noticed that Pin 5 of the FV-1 is not connected to anything but, just wondering if there needs to be some kind of resistance on that pin to compensate for clipping. Either that or it is something in the coding.
Directly from the Spin site:
"The CLIP LED is optional, but will flash for approximately 30mS if the internal ADC or DAC are driven to within a few tenths of a dB of a full scale. Any overflow from internal processing that does not produce a near full scale output will not light the clip LED."
Double check your power supply voltage?
Pin 5 can be left open if not being used to drive an LED, as Digital Larry mentions, check the PSU voltage and if you can measure the voltages on the PCB for appx 9v and a good 3.3v at the regulator.
Listening to the sound clip It sounds like there is no clipping when in the amp's fx loop but direct into front of amp there is definite clipping. Unless your guitar has a huge output level this should not happen. I wonder if you are able to test out on a different amp.
Also I ask again what happens if you back the guitar volume down a bit, does it still clip on the amps input ?
There's definitely clipping when it's in the loop too, it's just smoother :D
Rolling the volume pot down doesn't make a difference either.
On the plus side, I get to learn how to use my multi-meter and measure voltages!
Am I correct to think that the black lead should connect to the G pin of the regulator? I did that, and then touched the Red lead to the S and then tried it on the D pins.. got the same reading: 7.45
So... I'm guessing it means the regulator is somehow a bit fried..?
I don't have another one hand to try swapping (though I do have a 78L33 - would that do the same job?)
Edit: ok, I'm a n00b, I was measuring the polarity protector mosfet... :icon_redface:
Thoughts?
OK.. having now measured the regulator :icon_cool: it doesn't seem to be the problem, as I'm getting 6.68 on one side (closest to jacks.. the regulator input, yeah?) and 3.11 on the pin closest to the top.. I also tried swapping it out for a new one.. still getting distortion with the hot-pickups. I can't really notice it with my other Tele..
Quote from: therealfindo on January 20, 2014, 03:07:59 PM
OK.. having now measured the regulator :icon_cool: it doesn't seem to be the problem, as I'm getting 6.68 on one side (closest to jacks.. the regulator input, yeah?) and 3.11 on the pin closest to the top.. I also tried swapping it out for a new one.. still getting distortion with the hot-pickups. I can't really notice it with my other Tele..
Ok, now something doesn't sound correct there, the 3.3v reg should of course give out 3.3v but on the input to it you should be reading 9v or there abouts not the 6.68. Check the voltage on pins 4 and 8 of the op amp again that should be a good 9v.
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 20, 2014, 06:56:38 PM
Quote from: therealfindo on January 20, 2014, 03:07:59 PM
OK.. having now measured the regulator :icon_cool: it doesn't seem to be the problem, as I'm getting 6.68 on one side (closest to jacks.. the regulator input, yeah?) and 3.11 on the pin closest to the top.. I also tried swapping it out for a new one.. still getting distortion with the hot-pickups. I can't really notice it with my other Tele..
Ok, now something doesn't sound correct there, the 3.3v reg should of course give out 3.3v but on the input to it you should be reading 9v or there abouts not the 6.68. Check the voltage on pins 4 and 8 of the op amp again that should be a good 9v.
I'm getting 6.93
The PSU (read at the jack) is 8.74
Quote from: therealfindo on January 21, 2014, 03:52:18 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 20, 2014, 06:56:38 PM
Quote from: therealfindo on January 20, 2014, 03:07:59 PM
OK.. having now measured the regulator :icon_cool: it doesn't seem to be the problem, as I'm getting 6.68 on one side (closest to jacks.. the regulator input, yeah?) and 3.11 on the pin closest to the top.. I also tried swapping it out for a new one.. still getting distortion with the hot-pickups. I can't really notice it with my other Tele..
Ok, now something doesn't sound correct there, the 3.3v reg should of course give out 3.3v but on the input to it you should be reading 9v or there abouts not the 6.68. Check the voltage on pins 4 and 8 of the op amp again that should be a good 9v.
I'm getting 6.93
The PSU (read at the jack) is 8.74
Yeah, there is a issue somewhere with these readings.
If you can measure your PSU voltage when not connected to anything to confirm its not dropping voltage when under load that would be handy for me.
Check the correct value of R2, it should be 33 ohms, if a large value like 330ohms or bigger has been placed there then that would account for the voltage drop.
If your PSU is putting 8.74 volts into the IRFD9024 measured from 'Drain to ground' then you should be getting 8.74v (maybe a very slight drop 8.72v) measured from 'Source to ground' (output).
If you don't get a reading that is the same (I believe you will be getting 6.68v) then you can remove R2 which will effectively remove all the effects circuitry from the power. re measure the voltage from Source to ground. They should now be the same voltage your psu is putting into the circuit. If your still low on voltage then the IRFD9024 or the zenner may be faulty.
I am just on my way out, but when I get back in I can go more deeply into this.
hmm..
I did the measurements on theIRFD9024 and there was over 1V drop (I forgot to write the exact measurement down), the same for both drain and source. Thinking that this confirmed my suspicion that I'd fried it earlier, I took it off again (yeah, it's ot going back on!) and tried one of the other set-ups:
Quote2.
If you want to omit IRDF9024 and just have a diode to ground type protection then do the following
Solder a wire link/jumper in place of R1.
Solder a wire link from 'Drain' to 'Source' in place of TR1.
Fit a 1N4001 in TR1 position. ('Drain to gate' with diode stripe towards drain).
Leave D1 empty.
Fit R2 as normal.
Unfortunately it didn't fix the distortion (though it's almost liveable with my not-hot Tele..)
So the readings I'm getting now:
on the 1n4001: 8.73 same as psu
Still getting 6.95 at the reglator though
It doesn't matter that I'm using a blue LED, right?
Quote from: therealfindo on January 23, 2014, 12:25:02 PM
hmm..
I did the measurements on theIRFD9024 and there was over 1V drop (I forgot to write the exact measurement down), the same for both drain and source. Thinking that this confirmed my suspicion that I'd fried it earlier, I took it off again (yeah, it's ot going back on!) and tried one of the other set-ups:
Quote2.
If you want to omit IRDF9024 and just have a diode to ground type protection then do the following
Solder a wire link/jumper in place of R1.
Solder a wire link from 'Drain' to 'Source' in place of TR1.
Fit a 1N4001 in TR1 position. ('Drain to gate' with diode stripe towards drain).
Leave D1 empty.
Fit R2 as normal.
Unfortunately it didn't fix the distortion (though it's almost liveable with my not-hot Tele..)
So the readings I'm getting now:
on the 1n4001: 8.73 same as psu
Still getting 6.95 at the reglator though
It doesn't matter that I'm using a blue LED, right?
Blue LED should be ok but you may need to change the LED load resistor value for brightness.
You still have a problem as 6.95 volts is just totally wrong. The voltage at the reg input should be the same as the voltage you are putting in (ie appx 8.73v from your psu). First of all I would not be happy with a 9v psu that does not put out at least 9v but lets stick with the 8.73v. My first test from here would be to try a different PSU or a battery and check the voltages and the sound of the effect for distortion.
If the input voltages are reliable then my next question would be why is there a large voltage drop directly after the power input ? My answer would be that either there is a short somewhere, a faulty component or wrong value component fitted. My first check for incorrect components would be R2, it should be anything from 0 to 50 ohms (33 ohms is the size I use) if by accident you have fitted a 330 ohm or 3k3 resistor it will drop the voltage in a big way (simple ohms law here) so please check this is the right size resistor or just bypass it with a link wire to make it zero ohms and re-test the voltage at the regulator or pin 8 of the TL072.
Something is dropping the 9v line by over 2 volts meaning there is something wrong with a component or value somewhere. Let me know what you get when you check out what I have mentioned above.
ok, so I changed PSU to one which is putting out 9.09v
the 1n4001 is reading 9.07
now I'm not sure if this is corct, but I putt the black terminal at the + end of the diode and then read both ends of r2 - the end closest to the footswitch gave 9.07 and the other end gave 6.39 which is the same as what I'm getting at the regulator.
So, I used an aligator clip to bypass it, as you said, and I got exactly 9.0 at the regulator input, and 3.2 coming out of it. In fact, I even saw the LED brighten when I did clipped the lead on.
What does R2 do, btw?
Now, R2 is definitely a 33ohm resistor (the second one I've used there in fact) according to the stripes: orange orange black, and I measured one from the same batch, and got 35...
I might be missing something but 6.39 Volts after R2 doesn't look unreasonable. The FV1 can draw about 70ma which would give about 2.5 Volts dropped across 33 Ohms.
Where is the opamp powered from? It's not shown on the schematics in Mick's first post, if it's running on 6.3 Volts it's probably that that's distorting.
Quote from: slacker on January 23, 2014, 02:20:29 PM
I might be missing something but 6.39 Volts after the R2 doesn't look unreasonable. The FV1 can draw about 70ma which would give about 2.5 Volts dropped across 33 Ohms.
The supply to the FV-1 is after a regulator, the voltage at R2 should be appx the same as the 9v input. Unless there is some sort of extra drain on the circuit through a short or other problem the input voltage to the op-amp and other 9v circuitry should be appx 9v. The FV-1 control pots runs from 3.3v to gnd so a short across one of those could cause a problem, but I am trying to address this from the psu input first and follow the power through the circuit until we find the problem. I'm not sure where the problem is at the moment but I am sure it will come to light and sorted. :icon_biggrin:
You can't have 70ma coming out of the regulator without 70ma going into it, that's got to go through R2. I can't see how you can't be dropping any Voltage across it.
Even if the FV1 was only drawing the minimum specified current of 40ma you'd get a bit over 1 Volt across R2.
Quote from: slacker on January 23, 2014, 02:56:24 PM
You can't have 70ma coming out of the regulator without 70ma going into it, that's got to go through R2. I can't see how you can't be dropping any Voltage across it.
Even if the FV1 was only drawing the minimum specified current of 40ma you'd get a bit over 1 Volt across R2.
Yes of course you are correct, there will be a voltage drop the entire circuit is drawing appx 50ma at 8.7v and 33 ohms a voltage drop of about 2.2 volts. :icon_redface: So if as I suggest earlier that the 33 ohm resistor is shorted out/bypassed then this should correct the voltage drop for testing purposes.
All the other effects I have built to date do not suffer from any distortion so I am still wondering if that is or is not the problem here ?
Quote from: therealfindo on January 23, 2014, 01:35:43 PM
ok, so I changed PSU to one which is putting out 9.09v
the 1n4001 is reading 9.07
now I'm not sure if this is corct, but I putt the black terminal at the + end of the diode and then read both ends of r2 - the end closest to the footswitch gave 9.07 and the other end gave 6.39 which is the same as what I'm getting at the regulator.
So, I used an aligator clip to bypass it, as you said, and I got exactly 9.0 at the regulator input, and 3.2 coming out of it. In fact, I even saw the LED brighten when I did clipped the lead on.
What does R2 do, btw?
Now, R2 is definitely a 33ohm resistor (the second one I've used there in fact) according to the stripes: orange orange black, and I measured one from the same batch, and got 35...
Ok, that's good news. It would seem because of how much current the total circuit draws that a 33 ohm resistor is way to high and does cause too much voltage drop across it.
How is the distortion problem with R2 bypassed ? I will do some checks tomorrow but as of now I have not ha any clipping problems in all the builds. It could be that a high output pickup may clip the op amp when it is powered by a lower supply voltage of 6 ish volts.
I hope this gets to the bottom of the problem.
Oh dear... things just got much worse.
When I tried the effect with (with the alligator clip in place) I got a very nasty loud white noise explosion.. does the same without the aligator clip now. I also don't know if the regulator should be getting too hot to touch, but it is... eek.. not sure what happened!! Without the output plugged in, the voltage readings are the same as before.
Quote from: therealfindo on January 23, 2014, 04:02:46 PM
Oh dear... things just got much worse.
When I tried the effect with (with the alligator clip in place) I got a very nasty loud white noise explosion.. does the same without the aligator clip now. I also don't know if the regulator should be getting too hot to touch, but it is... eek.. not sure what happened!! Without the output plugged in, the voltage readings are the same as before.
Ohh that doesn't sound good, where did you put the alligator clips ?
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 23, 2014, 04:54:55 PM
Ohh that doesn't sound good, where did you put the alligator clips ?
On the two legs of R2. I've looked for solder bridges, and other bits I might have bumped, but I can't see what has changed to make it do this...
I'm assuming that a bunch of voltage is getting into the guitar signal, right?
What should the op-amp readings be?
What does R2 do?
btw, thanks for all your help with this!!
The 3.3v reg should not be hot, so for now I would not connect power until we can find out what is wrong in case it may cause damage to other parts of the circuit.
R2 is just to help filter out any noise that might be present on the PSU supply line, R2 is not needed in the circuit for it to operate correctly, so bypassing it with a wire link should have no effect other than to raise the voltage going to the rest of the circuit.
is it possible to post a picture with your alligator clips in place a picture might shed more light on what is going on.
If all else fails to get this up and running I would be happy to take a look at it if you wanted to send it to me.
I'll try and get a pic in the morning, but the problem is the same without the alligator clip as well.. lots of nasty noise and a very hot regulator.
I can recheck the solder joints on all the spots around the polarity protection which I've been messing with tonight.
So strange...
Quote from: therealfindo on January 23, 2014, 05:23:13 PM
I'll try and get a pic in the morning, but the problem is the same without the alligator clip as well.. lots of nasty noise and a very hot regulator.
I can recheck the solder joints on all the spots around the polarity protection which I've been messing with tonight.
So strange...
What worries me is that if the voltage regulator has now been damaged and if the unit is powered up again the FV-1 chip might get the full voltage of the PSU which in turn will damage the FV-1. So if you can get me a picture so that I can see what was modified around the psu section it may shed some light on what is going on.
Thanks
ok, here's some photos of what it looks like... the desoldering (twice) of the mosfet wasnot pretty..
click for bigger:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/wingnut-2981.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/wingnut-2981.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/wingnut-2982.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/wingnut-2982.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/wingnut-2983.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/wingnut-2983.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/wingnut-2985.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/wingnut-2985.jpg)
This is where I had the aligator clips:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/wingnut-2990.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/Photos/wingnut-2990.jpg)
Thanks for the pictures, the re working of the power section looks ok and the crock clips look ok. I see you have the 3.3v reg in a socket, That's good as you can remove it from the PCB while testing the rest of the board.
With the 3.3v reg removed can you now recheck the voltages on the opamp. with R2 replaced by a link you should be getting the full input voltage between pin 8 and 4.
If your voltages are correct at this point you could uses an audio probe to follow the signal through the opamps to the output.(as the FV-1 won't be powered it can be bypassed) or a link between the negative side of C6 to the + side of C8. This will pass the signal through the analogue part of the circuit from the input jack to the output jack. Once that is all checked and ok next check the regulator is still working, best to check on breadboard first for 3.3v
So..
with the regulator removed, the op-amp 4 & 8 is giving me the same as the input psu 9.12 - here's the wierd thing, it's exactly the same ( ok, maybe 0.02 difference) when I DON'T have the alligator clip.. so the 33 Ohm resistor isn't causing a voltage drop when the regulator is removed...
Now the regulator I tested on a breadboard: it is not heating up anymore, the out put is 3.23 but the input voltage drops to 9.06 (this is the same for 3 regulators - two that I'd tried in the circuit earlier and an unused one)
Quote from: therealfindo on January 26, 2014, 04:02:26 PM
So..
with the regulator removed, the op-amp 4 & 8 is giving me the same as the input psu 9.12 - here's the wierd thing, it's exactly the same ( ok, maybe 0.02 difference) when I DON'T have the alligator clip.. so the 33 Ohm resistor isn't causing a voltage drop when the regulator is removed...
Yes that result sounds normal as with the regulator removed the FV-1 part of the circuit is not taking any power (which is the main current draw in the circuit under normal use). The only part of the circuit using any current will be just a few millamps from the analogue side so there will be very little voltage drop when run without the FV-1.
Did you have a chance to test the audio path with the reg removed and linking between C6 and C8 to make sure the analogue path is still working as it should ?
Now the regulator I tested on a breadboard: it is not heating up anymore, the out put is 3.23 but the input voltage drops to 9.06 (this is the same for 3 regulators - two that I'd tried in the circuit earlier and an unused one)
[/quote]
here's a quick mp3 (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/wingnut%20no%20reg.mp3) of what it sounds like with the c6 - c8 link and no regulator (clean first.. you'll hear when I activate the circuit!)
Quote from: therealfindo on January 27, 2014, 03:39:31 AM
here's a quick mp3 (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/wingnut%20no%20reg.mp3) of what it sounds like with the c6 - c8 link and no regulator (clean first.. you'll hear when I activate the circuit!)
That sounds terrible, the analogue side is just a buffer in and a buffer out so should not have any gain or distortion present, the sound level and tone should be almost identical when the footswitch changes between effect and bypass the way it is now wired with the FV-1 bypassed in circuit.
I don't have a built PCB to hand so will make one tonight to do some checking and voltage tests to compare your readings with.
It may be worth checking some voltage readings on each pin of the op amp to compare and check your Vref voltage is half supply voltage.
I can't see clearly from your pictures what you have in the pads for C9, C10, R11 and R12. If you could confirm for me this while I am building a test pcb that would be great.
Ok I have made up a pcb with the main audio parts on to test so we can try and get your PCB working correctly, I have also done some real time voltage checks and a sound file of how it should sound when bypassed and engaged. (FV-1 left unpowered and link between C6-C8).
here are some voltage readings
Main power input =9.24v
Vref (R3-R4 junction) =4.6v
TL072 op amp (meter lead red to pin black to ground)
pin 1 = 4.6v
pin 2 = 4.6v
pin 3 = 4.37v
pin 4 = 0v
pin 5 = 4.55v
pin 6 = 4.6v
pin 7 = 4.6v
pin 8 = 9.24v
These readings will all be slightly different depending on what your input voltage reading is.
Here is a little recording, guitar plugged into FV-1 PCB, out to PC and recorded direct into Cubase.
https://soundcloud.com/micktaylor1/guitar-audio-03 (https://soundcloud.com/micktaylor1/guitar-audio-03)
The sound is in bypass then at 17 seconds you can hear a small click as the pedal is engaged, at 33 seconds it is turned off again. Near the end I strummed a couple of chords as hard as possible to try and over power the circuit. Guitar was a EVH wolfgang with high output humbuckers and the result was still clean.
Your fault as I can see sounds like a bad opamp or incorrectly biased opamp which could be down to a faulty component or even a wrong value component. I know you have checked values but could you check again that the values around the Vref components are correct. The voltage readings should put us on the right track.
Thanks Mick!!
Here are my readings:
No links | R2 bypassed | C6-C8 linked | C6-C8 linked + R2 bypassed
PSU 9.05v 9.05 9.05 9.05
Vref 8.13 8.19 7.83 7.88
Pins
1 8.37 8.43 7.88 7.92
2 8.36 8.43 7.88 7.92
3 5.53 5.56 5.33 5.37
4 0 0 0 0
5 7.4 7.45 1.00 1.00
6 8.36 8.43 1.01 1.00
7 8.37 8.43 1.00 1.00
8 8.99 9.05 8.98 9.05
The c6-c8 link was from c6 - to c8 + Should it have caused that huge drop?
But.. I just noticed that I've accidentally put a 4k7 resistor at R3 - those red and orange stripes look too similar!! So I'll change that out and see if makes a difference.
I already tried a new op amp chip back at the start.. but I can also try again.
slight eureka moment...
I replaced R3 with the correct 47k resistor but the c6/c8 link was still getting the crazy distortion, so just out of interest (in case I had the link clipped on wrong) I played around with it and clipped the two + terminals to each other, and ta-da, clean sound.. no flubbiness.
so the voltage readings with that c6-c8 link (and r2 in circuit no regulator) are:
psu 9.12
vref 4.44
1 4.55
2 4.54
3 2.82
4 0
5 4.53
6 4.54
7 4.55
8 9.10
So... the problem lies somehow with c6 perhaps? As far as I can see, I've got the polarity for c6 and c8 correct. Would this relate to the overheating of the regulator? (I really fear that the obscene snowstorm of noise I hear when it's installed is indicative of a fried chip..)
No it's not C6, the voltage drop is définitively due to R3: Vref = R4/(R3 + R4) x V+
So with R3 =4K7, you had Vref = 8,22V
With R3 = 47K, you now have the correct value of Vref = 1/2 V+
So nice job therealfindo!
I bought a FV1 because of this project months ago, but I still need to buy a PIC programmer... :icon_redface:
Quote from: therealfindo on January 28, 2014, 12:01:54 PM
slight eureka moment...
I replaced R3 with the correct 47k resistor but the c6/c8 link was still getting the crazy distortion, so just out of interest (in case I had the link clipped on wrong) I played around with it and clipped the two + terminals to each other, and ta-da, clean sound.. no flubbiness.
so the voltage readings with that c6-c8 link (and r2 in circuit no regulator) are:
psu 9.12
vref 4.44
1 4.55
2 4.54
3 2.82
4 0
5 4.53
6 4.54
7 4.55
8 9.10
So... the problem lies somehow with c6 perhaps? As far as I can see, I've got the polarity for c6 and c8 correct. Would this relate to the overheating of the regulator? (I really fear that the obscene snowstorm of noise I hear when it's installed is indicative of a fried chip..)
The problem points to the wrong size resistor R3, In your first readings Vref was over 8 volts when it should have been half the supply voltage, it was not possible for the opamp to be biased correctly.
If you have C6 and C8 installed the correct way around, (negative stripe facing away from the footswitch) all should be good here, but if one or the other was incorrect or damaged then a high voltage could have damaged the FV-1. It may be worth checking/changing C6-8 .
Next I would remove the link between c-6 c8 and put back in the regulator and check the voltage on its output, if 3.3 volts (3.2ish is fine) then check through your amp that it is now working. If all is not well, let me know as the FV-1 may be damaged.
Let me know how this works out.
EDIT- I posted at the same time loylo did, +1 on R3 .
Get that PIC programmer, you know it makes sense. :)
Here is the code for the Reverb Room in case anyone wants to have a go at messing around with it. It is a slightly modified version of one of the room reverbs from the Spin site.
;Room.
;Pot0 = reverb damping
;Pot1 = reverb level
;Pot2 = reverb time
mem idel 4000 ;initial sound space
mem iap0 11
mem iap1 27
mem iap2 43
mem iap5 171
mem iap6 296 ;thickening all passes imbeded in intiial delay
mem ap1 134
mem ap2 256
mem ap3 562
mem ap4 763 ;reverb loop input all passes
mem lap1a 1421
mem lap1b 1945
mem d1 2434
mem lap2a 1894
mem lap2b 1767
mem d2 2645 ;loop constants
;write-first registers:
equ dry reg0
equ kirt reg1 ;coefficint to scale initial sound
equ krt reg2 ;coefficient to affect RT of loop
equ apout reg3 ;output of loop input all passes
equ kd reg4 ;damping coefficient (for shelving)
equ temp reg5 ;temp register for filter routines
equ gain reg6 ;adjust gain with RT
equ revoutl reg7
equ revoutr reg8
;read-first registers:
equ lf1 reg20 ;reverb loop filter 1
equ lf2 reg21 ;reverb loop filter 2
equ hf1 reg22 ;loop high pass 1 (fixed)
equ hf2 reg23 ;loop high pass 2 (fixed)
equ lfin1 reg24 ;LPF for imbedding in intial delay
equ lfin2 reg25 ;LPF for imbedding in intial delay
equ lf reg26 ;input low pass (shelving with kd)
;clear read-first registers:
skp run,endclr
wrax lf1,0
wrax lf2,0
wrax hf1,0
wrax hf2,0
wrax lfin1,0
wrax lfin2,0
wrax lf,0
endclr:
;initial sound tap positions (30.5uS/location, 100=3.05mS):
equ ld1 874 ;first tap, left
equ rd1 874 ;first tap, right
equ ld2 1156 ;and so on...
equ rd2 962
equ ld3 1345
equ rd3 1121
equ ld4 1456
equ rd4 1423
equ ld5 2121
equ rd5 2124
equ ld6 3245
equ rd6 3646
;initialize sin LFO:
skp run,endset
wlds sin0,25,100
endset:
;prepare decay pot:
rdax pot2,0.97 ;get pot, limit to less than infinite
wrax krt,1 ;write loop decay time
sof 0.4,0.6 ;scale to 0.6 to 1.0
wrax kirt,0 ;write impulse filter gains
sof -1,0.99 ;scale to decrease gain with RT
wrax gain,0 ;write gain factor
;prepare damping pot:
rdax pot0,-1
wrax kd,0 ;increases shelf to -1 (infinite loss)
;do inputs to predelay:
rdax adcl,0.5
rdax adcr,0.5 ;get inputs
mulx gain ;give greater gain to short RT
wrax dry,0
;read predelay and write initial response delay:
rdax dry, 0.5
rda iap0#,0.5
wrap iap0,-0.5 ;complicate input to initial delay
wrax temp,1
rdfx lf,0.4
wrhx lf,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1 ;low pass fiter entire input
wra idel,0 ;write initial sound delay
;complicate initial sound:
rda idel+500,1
rda iap1#,0.5
wrap iap1,-0.5
wra idel+500,0
rda idel+1000,1
rda iap2#,0.5
wrap iap2,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin1,0.2
wrhx lfin1,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input (shelving LPF)
wra idel+1000,0
rda idel+2500,1
rda iap5#,0.5
wrap iap5,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin2,0.2
wrhx lfin2,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input (shelving LPF)
wra idel+2500,0
rda idel+3000,1
rda iap6#,0.5
wrap iap6,-0.5
wra idel+3000,0
;do reverb input all passes:
rda idel,0.9 ;leave some headroom
rda ap1#,0.5
wrap ap1,-0.5
rda ap2#,0.5
wrap ap2,-0.5
rda ap3#,0.5
wrap ap3,-0.5
rda ap4#,0.5
wrap ap4,-0.5
wrax apout,0
;do reverb loop and sum all outputs:
rda d2#,1
mulx krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap1a#,0.5
wrap lap1a,-0.5
rda lap1b#,0.5
wrap lap1b,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lf1,0.4
wrhx lf1,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input (shelving LPF)
rdfx hf1,0.01
wrhx hf1,-0.5 ;roll out lows in loop
wra d1,0
;rda idel+ld6,-0.35
;mulx kirt
;rda idel+ld5,0.4
;mulx kirt
;rda idel+ld4,0.4
;mulx kirt
;rda idel+ld3,0.5
;mulx kirt
;rda idel+ld2,0.5
;rda idel+ld1,-0.55
;wrax revoutl,0
rda d1#,1
mulx krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap2a#,0.5
wrap lap2a,-0.5
rda lap2b#,0.5
wrap lap2b,-0.5
wrax temp,1
rdfx lf2,0.4
wrhx lf2,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1
rdfx hf2,0.01
wrhx hf2,-0.5
wra d2,1.99
rda d1,1.99
mulx pot1
mulx pot1
wrax revoutr,0
;rda idel+rd6,0.4
;mulx kirt
;rda idel+rd5,-0.5
;mulx kirt
;rda idel+rd4,0.5
;mulx kirt
;rda idel+rd3,0.6
;mulx kirt
;rda idel+rd2,-0.6
;rda idel+rd1,0.5
;wrax dacr,0
;do reverb smoothing:
cho rda,sin0,sin|reg|compc,d1+100
cho rda,sin0,sin,d1+101
wra d1+200,0
cho rda,sin0,cos|reg|compc,d2+100
cho rda,sin0,cos,d2+101
wra d2+200,0
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 28, 2014, 01:54:36 PM
Get that PIC programmer, you know it makes sense. :)
For sure, I know, and I will ! ;)
I replaced c6 and c8 even though they were the right way around, just in case - though I managed rip out a pad in the process, but it appears to have continuity with the trace still :-\
The regulator is still getting too hot to touch - i'm getting 6.06v on the iput side and only 3.04 on the output side.. have tried a couple of different ones, same thing.
But the sound is still crazy, and I think I might have fried the chip, perhaps I accidentaly bridged the input and output leg of the regulator while testing at one point (though it doesn't explain why it's overheating)
Here's an example (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/white%20noise%20wingnut.mp3) (turn your speakers down!!)
I'm also still confused as to why going from the negative side of C6 to C8 causes distortion, but bypassing C6 stops the distortion? Even with new caps, it's still doing that - and I'm guess that if the FV-1 was working, that C6 would still cause distortion somehow.
Quote from: therealfindo on January 28, 2014, 04:49:05 PM
I replaced c6 and c8 even though they were the right way around, just in case - though I managed rip out a pad in the process, but it appears to have continuity with the trace still :-\
The regulator is still getting too hot to touch - i'm getting 6.06v on the iput side and only 3.04 on the output side.. have tried a couple of different ones, same thing.
But the sound is still crazy, and I think I might have fried the chip, perhaps I accidentaly bridged the input and output leg of the regulator while testing at one point (though it doesn't explain why it's overheating)
Here's an example (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/1767893/white%20noise%20wingnut.mp3) (turn your speakers down!!)
I'm also still confused as to why going from the negative side of C6 to C8 causes distortion, but bypassing C6 stops the distortion? Even with new caps, it's still doing that - and I'm guess that if the FV-1 was working, that C6 would still cause distortion somehow.
If the Reg is getting hot and the voltage is dropping with the reg fitted (you had correct voltage without the reg) then you have a short somewhere.
If your willing to pay postage fees then I would be happy to sort out any problems for you. Let me know and I will give you an address to send it to.
What do you mean by "bypassing C6"? Does this stop the white noise
thanks Mick.
I can't see any shorts - I'm assuming it would have to be on the other side of C6? Though, again, using clips to jump R2 gives me 9.06v at the regulator input, (but as you say - I had proper volatage there, at the socket, until I plug the regulator into it, when R2 was in the circuit) but it still gets really hot.
I'll PM you..
Quote from: slacker on January 28, 2014, 05:25:29 PM
What do you mean by "bypassing C6"? Does this stop the white noise
When I jumped from the + of C6 to the + of C8 (with no regulator). There was no white noise, as it was just the analogue op-amp part of the circuit.. although going from the -of c6 to + of c8 added distortion and flubbiness (which I don't understand - because as far as I can see in the schematic, it's going from the - of c6 into the rest of the circuit.. The white noise only happens when I put the regulator in.
btw, I have R14 and R6 as wire jumpers as per these instructions (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=104291.msg945773#msg945773) but they are 1k resistors on the schematic.. is this a problem?
While it is difficult to tell from the photos, it looks to me like IC4 may be backwards.
^ i zoomed in and it looks it to me too...well spotted....unless its a trick of the light. ???
It does appear that the 'dot' of IC4 is on the footswitch end...
Quote from: therealfindo on January 29, 2014, 01:45:23 AM
It does appear that the 'dot' of IC4 is on the footswitch end...
Yep, and if you look at the pics of Ice9 on page 1, the dot should be on the other side. ;)
just draw a dot on the other end.. :D ;D ;)
:icon_mrgreen:
I just checked the pictures myself , IC4 is correct. :icon_wink: the dot does point to the jacks and that is how it is meant to go. It does look in the first pictures to be point up, must just be the picture unless That was a boob-up in my first pedal. To clarify I will post a picture with the idents marked on it.
;D oh well..it's a different issue then. 8)
The red mark donates which are pin 1 on the IC's
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/fv-1chiporientation_zps937541c5.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/fv-1chiporientation_zps937541c5.jpg.html)
anyone know where to get the .asm files for the echo tapper programs?
Quote from: teej212 on January 30, 2014, 10:02:51 AM
anyone know where to get the .asm files for the echo tapper programs?
Piet has not released them so they are not available.
Quote from: octfrank on January 30, 2014, 11:19:17 AM
Quote from: teej212 on January 30, 2014, 10:02:51 AM
anyone know where to get the .asm files for the echo tapper programs?
Piet has not released them so they are not available.
As Frank says they are not been released in asm. Piet has made them available as pre -programmed hex on Franks OCT module or pre- programmed with my pedal pcb.
yeah I knew they were available in the skrm module, just wanted to see if the files were floating around out there
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 30, 2014, 12:57:41 PM
Quote from: octfrank on January 30, 2014, 11:19:17 AM
Quote from: teej212 on January 30, 2014, 10:02:51 AM
anyone know where to get the .asm files for the echo tapper programs?
Piet has not released them so they are not available.
As Frank says they are not been released in asm. Piet has made them available as pre -programmed hex on Franks OCT module or pre- programmed with my pedal pcb.
Too bad! But I am far from learning anything from Piet's code to try to emulate tape/drum echo (I'm fond of Binson Echorec - I own two versions - and the Catalinbread emulation). :icon_redface:
I am in the process of building a Pickit2 clone. Next I'll have to etch a board for the FV1.
Mick, are you planning to share your single sided PCB layout for people willing to etch their own board?
Quote from: loylo on February 04, 2014, 06:28:19 AM
Mick, are you planning to share your single sided PCB layout for people willing to etch their own board?
Yeah, I will post the single sided layout, I lost the finished version of it but I have an older one which I can look at and finish off before posting. It will take me a couple of days to dig it out and have a look.
@Therealfindo, I got your PCB today, I had a quick look over it and can see a few issues but the main find at the moment is that the DC blocking cap C6 going into FV-1 has a short across it, this will put about 4.5v on pin 1 of the FV-1. I expect this short came from trying to trouble shoot your initial problem. I will get a good look at it all tomorrow.
Quote from: Ice-9 on February 04, 2014, 12:12:06 PM
Yeah, I will post the single sided layout, I lost the finished version of it but I have an older one which I can look at and finish off before posting. It will take me a couple of days to dig it out and have a look.
Glad to read that. Thanks for your support, Mick.
Quote from: Ice-9 on February 04, 2014, 12:12:06 PM
@Therealfindo, I got your PCB today, I had a quick look over it and can see a few issues but the main find at the moment is that the DC blocking cap C6 going into FV-1 has a short across it, this will put about 4.5v on pin 1 of the FV-1. I expect this short came from trying to trouble shoot your initial problem. I will get a good look at it all tomorrow.
oh... thanks!
This is pretty fantastic. Thanks for the project! Are there any higher res images of the schematics? I tried saving them as well as looking at the photobucket but it's very hard to make out any values. Thanks!
Quote from: mth5044 on February 09, 2014, 08:22:48 PM
This is pretty fantastic. Thanks for the project! Are there any higher res images of the schematics? I tried saving them as well as looking at the photobucket but it's very hard to make out any values. Thanks!
Not sure why the schematics don't show in hi-res when downloaded as they do for me, but component values are listed on page 4 of this thread if you want to check them there.
Trying to post files in the forum just isn't working the way I want it to so anyone wanting the hi res schematics or single layer pcb layout please pm me and I can send them directly.
Hello All ! This is my first post on this forum.
I'm working under the same project. My project is controlled by Attiny 2313 chip for preset selection.
Audio part of my schematic is based on tonepad's project and it doesn't have a mixer for the Dry and Wet signals.
I'd like to ask you about presets and mixing - how do yo manage it?
I'm using the following code:
Quoteequ effect reg14 ; Setting up register in the beginning of the code
; in the end stage
wrax effect, 0
rdax adcl, 0.5 ; Level of the Dry Signal
rdax effect, 0.5 ; Level of the Wet Signal
wrax dacl, 0.0
It helps me to pass the Dry signal to the output and it is working fine. But maybe mixing of these two signals using analog mixer would work better?
PS
Where can I get the presets for this project or this information is confidential?
PS PS
Sorry for my English, I'm Russian. :)
Quote from: Danila-master on February 16, 2014, 12:50:20 PM
Hello All ! This is my first post on this forum.
I'm working under the same project. My project is controlled by Attiny 2313 chip for preset selection.
Audio part of my schematic is based on tonepad's project and it doesn't have a mixer for the Dry and Wet signals.
I'd like to ask you about presets and mixing - how do yo manage it?
I'm using the following code:
Quoteequ effect reg14 ; Setting up register in the beginning of the code
; in the end stage
wrax effect, 0
rdax adcl, 0.5 ; Level of the Dry Signal
rdax effect, 0.5 ; Level of the Wet Signal
wrax dacl, 0.0
It helps me to pass the Dry signal to the output and it is working fine. But maybe mixing of these two signals using analog mixer would work better?
PS
Where can I get the presets for this project or this information is confidential?
PS PS
Sorry for my English, I'm Russian. :)
You may want to add a pot control in your code to adjust the mix level between dry and effect which can be done internally with the FV-1. It could also be done externally,
I will try and post info and files next week for FV-1 projects I have, including the hex for effects.
If you want to share you attiny 2313 project here you may also do this.
http://www.spinsemi.com/knowledge_base/coding_examples.html#Cross_fading
Would do the job I guess
Piet
Quote from: Ice-9 on February 19, 2014, 05:10:28 PM
You may want to add a pot control in your code to adjust the mix level between dry and effect which can be done internally with the FV-1. It could also be done externally,
I will try and post info and files next week for FV-1 projects I have, including the hex for effects.
If you want to share you attiny 2313 project here you may also do this.
I'd like to preserve HP/LP filter controls, but maybe I'll merge these two controls into one single "Damping" pot.
In this version i have no external mixer controls ( so I'll mix signals internally in code.
About my attiny project:
I'll post here a final version of code, because this version has some bugs.
1- 2313 is not a best chip for this task, because it has no ADC in it. I'm using an encoder to change presets... But using another MCU with ADC we can select presets with a regular potentiometer.
2- There is a bug with bypass processing. It makes a loud "pop" when the pedal is engaged..
3- In some presets I can hear digital buzzing in background...
I hope Sunday I'll fix these bugs and will share the code.
Just about to order a couple of the SKRM boards to do some testing.
Would anyone be interested in creating a program file for me for payment?
I'm much more of a hardware person than a software, I intend to mess around with the SpinCAD software which looks great.
I want a bank of FX that would ideally be stereo in / stereo out (the modules are going into a stereo drum machine (HR16) )
Although stereo is not a deal breaker I guess.
This is the bank I would like to have
0:HallReverb
1:Gated Reverb
2:HP/LP Filter (with cutoff, resonance on pots)
3:Chorus (with speed, depth params on pots)
4:Flanger (with speed, depth params on pots)
5:Delay (with delay time, feedback params on pots)
6:Bit Crusher (with bit depth (or equiv) and depth params on pots)
7:Phaser (with speed, depth params on pots)
As I said, I'm happy to pay someone a reasonable fee for creating the set of programs for me, you can keep the source files, I just want the programs!
I know it's a long shot to ask, but, well.. I asked!
Cheers
Quote from: bradholland on March 11, 2014, 01:44:36 PM
Just about to order a couple of the SKRM boards to do some testing.
Would anyone be interested in creating a program file for me for payment?
I'm much more of a hardware person than a software, I intend to mess around with the SpinCAD software which looks great.
I want a bank of FX that would ideally be stereo in / stereo out (the modules are going into a stereo drum machine (HR16) )
Although stereo is not a deal breaker I guess.
This is the bank I would like to have
0:HallReverb
1:Gated Reverb
2:HP/LP Filter (with cutoff, resonance on pots)
3:Chorus (with speed, depth params on pots)
4:Flanger (with speed, depth params on pots)
5:Delay (with delay time, feedback params on pots)
6:Bit Crusher (with bit depth (or equiv) and depth params on pots)
7:Phaser (with speed, depth params on pots)
As I said, I'm happy to pay someone a reasonable fee for creating the set of programs for me, you can keep the source files, I just want the programs!
I know it's a long shot to ask, but, well.. I asked!
Cheers
If you head over to the Spinesemi forum who are the developers of the FV-1 chip you will find all these programs in the FreeDSP programs section with the exception of the bit crusher, which you will be able to find in the forum section of the website. Most of these will be in stereo. The effects that are pre programmed into the SKRM boards are very good as well.
Where is this project at?
I remember the first post someone made about the FV1 years ago,glad it has taken off!
And Ice-9 your demo videos sounded really great,I was blown away by Slackers pedal demo!
The bit crusher fuzz sound at one point made me go OMG I want one!!!
A couple questions:
Is stereo just a matter of a bit of programing or component adding or both?
Can the FV1 be programed to use an expression pedal? for like stereo panning,LFO ramping,active octave down/up tuning(pedal whammy),ect?
Would it be better to use logic chips with momentary switches for FX selection,or would more than one FV1 be needed
for on the fly capability of some or all FX changing?(like reverb to chorus or phaser)
I read a post about using an LED number module and footswitch for selecting (patches?)
I guess thats close but I dont like tapping my foot like Mr Ed doing a math problem to select the FX I want.
Sorry if these questions are redundant...Just really peaked my interest listening to the demos.
I nearly bought a few of these ICs when I saw the first post about them,but the SMD scared me off.
I realize now that to continue in the DIY electronics hobby I am going to have to get into SMD,there is just to much available at lower cost once you have the right workstations to do it.
The lack of TO92 J201s is one example (not to be OT) but I really see now the benefit of jumping into SMD
You guys get mad respect from me for getting the FV1 going like this. :icon_cool:
When the bugs are squashed I would love to buy a PCB or kit and make one too.
Quote from: Brymus on April 25, 2014, 04:44:41 AM
Where is this project at?
I remember the first post someone made about the FV1 years ago,glad it has taken off!
And Ice-9 your demo videos sounded really great,I was blown away by Slackers pedal demo!
The bit crusher fuzz sound at one point made me go OMG I want one!!!
A couple questions:
Is stereo just a matter of a bit of programing or component adding or both?
Can the FV1 be programed to use an expression pedal? for like stereo panning,LFO ramping,active octave down/up tuning(pedal whammy),ect?
Would it be better to use logic chips with momentary switches for FX selection,or would more than one FV1 be needed
for on the fly capability of some or all FX changing?(like reverb to chorus or phaser)
I read a post about using an LED number module and footswitch for selecting (patches?)
I guess thats close but I dont like tapping my foot like Mr Ed doing a math problem to select the FX I want.
Sorry if these questions are redundant...Just really peaked my interest listening to the demos.
I nearly bought a few of these ICs when I saw the first post about them,but the SMD scared me off.
I realize now that to continue in the DIY electronics hobby I am going to have to get into SMD,there is just to much available at lower cost once you have the right workstations to do it.
The lack of TO92 J201s is one example (not to be OT) but I really see now the benefit of jumping into SMD
You guys get mad respect from me for getting the FV1 going like this. :icon_cool:
When the bugs are squashed I would love to buy a PCB or kit and make one too.
Hi Brymus, the project is this whole thread, and there has been quite a few builds from this, I need to get the single sided pcb and the hex files for the external memory posted up on the forum somehow as a downloadable attachment (it just seems I can't post any attachments on this forum). I did design a dual layer pcb to make mounting everything a lot easier and most of the builders asked about getting these boards instead of etching there own.
On these pcb's the stereo output was ignored in favour of making it fit in a 1590b enclosure and there is not much room left to mod it for stereo, although the space where the battery fits could be used for a second output jack and it would just need a second output buffer knocked up and hooked up to the second output of the FV-1. A little tweaking of the software also needed for stereo .
An expression pedal could be used but you would need to be careful of how it is wired (all you really need is the pot connections going directly to replace one of the pots in the FV-1 pedal.
The post you read about the footswitch LED module was probabaly the one I wrote which used a pic chip to drive the FV-1 patch selection and display the number on the LED. This just scrolled through the patches in order so if you were on patch 2 and needed patch one it would take 7 presses to get there :(
The SMD issue is one I had a lot of questions about and some builders asked me if I could supply them with the PCB with the SMD chips already soldered and programmed up which I was happy to do.
I hope this answers most of your questions, if you need to know anything else or want any of the pcb project files, asm and hex code just ask, I can email them.
Thank You Mick,
Yes that answers most my questions 8)
As for me putting it in a small enclosure that isn't a big priority.
I generally use 1590 BB enclosures and would be happy using something even bigger for this project.
As I would definitely want stereo out,possibly stereo in as well.
And the expression pedal input too.
For hosting files simply PM Aron to set you up an account in the layouts gallery,or if you wish I can send you my password and you can create an album there,that way as long as this site is alive the files are hosted w/o ads,ect.
PM me with costs or post here if you like,I would like a PCB and probably want the ICs included if that's possible (except the TL072)
Quote from: Brymus on April 26, 2014, 03:37:16 PM
Thank You Mick,
Yes that answers most my questions 8)
As for me putting it in a small enclosure that isn't a big priority.
I generally use 1590 BB enclosures and would be happy using something even bigger for this project.
As I would definitely want stereo out,possibly stereo in as well.
And the expression pedal input too.
For hosting files simply PM Aron to set you up an account in the layouts gallery,or if you wish I can send you my password and you can create an album there,that way as long as this site is alive the files are hosted w/o ads,ect.
PM me with costs or post here if you like,I would like a PCB and probably want the ICs included if that's possible (except the TL072)
PM'd
Mick - if you have Box, Dropbox, Google drive or the like, you could upload your files to there and just post a link.
I'd be happy to host if you don't have any of them.
Wow, Thanks to everyone who's been involved in this! I recently purchased a board from Mick and am eagerly awaiting spending my summer vacation learning about programming the FV-1. I started into this by modding a Holy Grail per Mick's instructions from a post he made over at ....org a while back. I'm currently trying to add an external Eeprom and having some problems programming the external eeprom. I may have fried 3 Eeproms so far although I can't be sure. I've found some links to videos and such, but the links are dead. As a guy who normally builds dirt boxes, I am pathetically new to digital. I'm so new to this, I'm not even sure if I am posting this question to the right place, but I have bothered Mick enough. I have read the microchip material on the pickit2 although I don't understand all of it. My question is, what are the correct pinouts on the pickit2 when programming a 24LC32A? No matter what I try, I get an memory error at address 0x00000. (give or take a 0) Is there anything else I need to know. I did find a tutorial from Piet and he warned to set Vdd to 3.7, but nowhere can I find a tutorial simple enough for a bonehead at my level. If someone can help me figure this out, I'll be glad to write a tutorial for total noobs such as myself so you won't get asked this question again. I know the information is out there somewhere and I just haven't found it, and I don't know where else to look. Thanks for any help. You guys are doing something amazing for the DIY community and it is much appreciated.
I'll see if I can help, these are the connections you need from the PICkit2 to the Eeprom
(http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=51010&g2_serialNumber=1)
Pin 1 of the PICkit2 is the one denoted by the white triangle on the case. Pin 2 is VDD, Pin 3 is ground, Pin 5 is serial clock and Pin 6 is serial data. The resistor value is not critical anything between 10k and 100k should work. This diagram is a stand alone programmer for programming the eeprom when it is not connected to the FV-1 circuit.
In the Pickit2 software select the Device Family >> EEPROMS >> 24LC, then select Device 24LC32A, make sure none of the A0, A1, A2 Chip select boxes are ticked, select the hex file you want to write and click Write. That should write the hex file to the eeprom, If it doesn't let us know what errors you get.
If you want to program the eeprom whilst it's connected to the FV-1 circuit then the connections are the same, except that you don't need the resistor, there's one built into the FV-1 and you don't connect Pin 2, power will be supplied from the FV-1 circuit, Pin 3 can be connected to ground anywhere on the FV-1 circuit.
Before you attempt to program the eeprom make sure the FV1 circuit it powered up and check you have 3.3 Volts on pin 8 of the eeprom and that pins 1, 2, 3, 4 and 7 of the eeprom are all connected to ground, if they aren't programming won't work.
Follow the same procedure as above in the PIckit2 software except set the VDD to 3.3 Volts if you don't you could damage the FV-1.
Hope that helps.
@professor3 You can ask any amount of questions you like of me, that is what the thread is for so, yes you are in the right place. I'm not sure what FV-1 pcb your using. Did you get the development PCB from Spinsemi or are you using the Holy Stain pedal as a development board? I doubt you will have damaged the eeprom as there sturdy little devices.
I sent you some info via email with the programs that are used in this thread ready to flash to the eeprom, just follow the picture that Ian (Slacker) has posted for programming.
Quote from: scuzzphut on May 04, 2014, 12:16:02 PM
Mick - if you have Box, Dropbox, Google drive or the like, you could upload your files to there and just post a link.
I'd be happy to host if you don't have any of them.
I have just looked into Google drive and have uploaded the hex file for the Eeprom, I will start updating all the other files and put them on the googledrive with all the source files as well as soon as I get a chance to recover my lost HD :( I got most of it back already.
Hope this link works
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqWml0SmFNLXN3ckE/edit?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqWml0SmFNLXN3ckE/edit?usp=sharing) Hex file for effect eeprom
Slacker and Ice-9, Thank you both for the help. I've been thinking about trying out mods to the Holy Stain ever since I read one of Mick's early posts about it several years ago. I recently had the chance to pick one up cheap and decided to give it a go. Thanks to both of you, I have a ridiculously capable cheap pedal now. And I have had hours of fun bending to my will. I was really pulling my hair out over trying to get the Pickit2 figured out though. If it weren't for your help, I would be bald by now. Now I'm programming Eeproms like a champ. As promised, I will be posting some information to help any other noobs like myself with some veroboard layouts and pictures soon. My Holy Stain currently has two external Eeproms and I want to make sure I can program both of them without opening the box before I throw in my two cents. Seriously, thank you both.
Quote from: Ice-9 on May 14, 2014, 12:36:30 PM
Hope this link works
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqWml0SmFNLXN3ckE/edit?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqWml0SmFNLXN3ckE/edit?usp=sharing) Hex file for effect eeprom
It works :icon_mrgreen:
Quote from: scuzzphut on May 20, 2014, 05:07:09 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on May 14, 2014, 12:36:30 PM
Hope this link works
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqWml0SmFNLXN3ckE/edit?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqWml0SmFNLXN3ckE/edit?usp=sharing) Hex file for effect eeprom
It works :icon_mrgreen:
Smashing, I will start to collect all the docs and source files and get them uploaded soon.
Hello, here you can buy inexpensive rotary switch for program selection http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BINARY-ROTARY-16-WAY-PANEL-MOUNTED-SWITCH-6mm-SHAFT-4-Bit-/171317641899?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item27e353c2ab (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BINARY-ROTARY-16-WAY-PANEL-MOUNTED-SWITCH-6mm-SHAFT-4-Bit-/171317641899?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item27e353c2ab)
Quote from: lietuvis on May 22, 2014, 02:03:30 AM
Hello, here you can buy inexpensive rotary switch for program selection http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BINARY-ROTARY-16-WAY-PANEL-MOUNTED-SWITCH-6mm-SHAFT-4-Bit-/171317641899?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item27e353c2ab (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/BINARY-ROTARY-16-WAY-PANEL-MOUNTED-SWITCH-6mm-SHAFT-4-Bit-/171317641899?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item27e353c2ab)
Thanks for that link, I've just ordered a few to try out.
I recently started with FV-1. So far I did stock rom programs just to see what is all about, cloned pcb from here http://www.takkyparts.com/index2.php?page=custom_kit/space_reverb_mini/index.php, it is very similar to tone pad schematic in mono version: fet buffer and direct out.
Here is couple pictures.
It's not finished yet:
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy218/aldaskaulickis/2014-05-20174403.jpg)
(http://i793.photobucket.com/albums/yy218/aldaskaulickis/2014-05-20174624.jpg)
I just received my FV-1 pcb from Ice-9. Great quality pcb with pre-soldered components.
Thanks Ice-9.
(http://alphakanal.de/static/images/diy/fv-1.jpg)
Quote from: loopmasta on June 26, 2014, 11:01:29 AM
I just received my FV-1 pcb from Ice-9. Great quality pcb with pre-soldered components.
Thanks Ice-9.
(http://alphakanal.de/static/images/diy/fv-1.jpg)
Great that you have received the PCB, I'm looking forward to seeing your build. If you have any questions about the build just ask me.
I am still trying to get all the parts together. But i am not sure if some of the components will fit on the pcb. Especially the pots, jacks, the switch and the condensors. So far my list looks like this.
4 x 50k lin pot http://www.musikding.de/Alpha-pot-angled-pc-mount-50k-lin
4 x knob http://www.musikding.de/Pointer-knob-grey
1 x enclosure http://www.musikding.de/Box-Type-B-red
1 x footswitch http://www.musikding.de/3PDT-footswitch
2 x jack http://www.musikding.de/63mm-Stereo-jack-plastic-nut-print
1 x dc power http://www.musikding.de/DC-power-jack-21mm-isolated-red
1 x TL072 http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Texas-Instruments/TL072IP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtCHixnSjNA6J5DQWv82hgvnMA72xjDiRo%3d
1 x IRFD9024 http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/IRFD9024PBF/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMshyDBzk1%2fWi1F3z9PgzPBnyDSp2NIDdTk%3d
1 x BZX55c 10V http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-Semiconductors/BZX55C10-TR/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtQ8nqTKtFS%2fKE3JtglsWdk9WhyGmw3QHU%3d
1 x 78L33 http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/STMicroelectronics/L78L33ABZ-AP/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtUqDgmOWBjgA5xg6X8qzyt%2f1g9M6QJSi0%3d
1 x XTAL 32768 http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ECS/ECS-3X8X/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMvH2g8tbX4d5S%252bjQ2TgFS4n
1 x 1M http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/MBA02040C1004FRP00/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhGycbaRtHRN9MgPNk7YsIJzk%3d
3 x 100k http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/MRS25000C1003FRP00/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG3E1zJeUDz0OIqGEur5KQiw%3d
2 x 10k http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/MRS25000C1002FRP00/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG6HwYlpQ4qed%252bKRyKybTv74%3d
6 x 1k http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/MBA02040C1001FC100/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG%252bgK%2fIhJPI67Ya670lXH0XQ%3d
1 x 100 http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/MRS25000C1000FRP00/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG59SH1jvyCAZsycrK5LxocM%3d
1 x 470k http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/MBA02040C4703FRP00/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG%252bgK%2fIhJPI67owFGifDdHRw%3d
2 x 47k http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/MBA02040C4702FC100/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG%252bgK%2fIhJPI673NCnMzp7pCM%3d
1 x 5k6 http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Vishay-BC-Components/MRS25000C5601FRP00/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMu61qfTUdNhG%252bdIDrgF3kQtwl6eD%2fd9icM%3d
1 x 100uf+ http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UPW1V101MPDAZHTD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22eWkQIPIs2s5PZWa%252bbN%252b9tA%3d
3 x 10uf+ http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/USV1V100MFD/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtZ1n0r9vR22TfspN1CfqVcybTSpqa9AAQ%3d
4 x 1uf+ http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Nichicon/UPX1V010MPD/?qs=YCfuz1lcYUabxNPFYw4X7Q%3d%3d
3 x 100nf http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Panasonic/ECQ-E4104KFA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh%252b1woXyUXj7dbjrfNRtllhcmc0AvlOo4%3d
1 x 1nf http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C322C102F5G5TA/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh%252b1woXyUXj3lRHEwk4xoTu7t3eVnynyM%3d
1 x 47pf http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C056G470F2G5CM/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsh%252b1woXyUXj%2fcj8UQsat8J7uJ1tU%252bA%252bRY%3d
PIC replacement
1 x teensy 2.0 http://www.hitechstore.de/produkt/teensy/
@Loopmaster The jacks and the pots are not correct if you want them to be board mounted.
The pots need to be the long legged ones, the pots in your mouser link are short legged, but there is no reason you can't use normal solder lug pots and connect them with wires if you prefer. The correct long legged pots are available from Mammoth in the USA or Musikding in Europe (EDIT. I will have to check where in Europe I got mine from as I can't seem to find those at Musikding now) .
I personally use wired pots now.
The signal jacks are the wrong type also as they have a nut that screws on a protruding thread, I have just checked Mouser and this is the correct type
http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/REAN-Neutrik/NYS215/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMv0W4pxf2HiVy2l1tTxTkO1zTDnJB71BQc%3d
The switch and psu connector are ok.
The caps should be fine.
I will post a picture later today of a finished pcb but without the pots so you can see the assembly and component sizes.
I have submitted a little PCB to OSHPark and have shared the file if it's of any use to anyone.
It's a little pcb to hold an 8 position switch for program changes of the FV-1. this one works along with the pic chip that is on my main pcb.
I will have a look at a diode based pcb that can output the S0-S2 hex directly as well if anyone i needing that type of 8 way switch.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/IMG_1661_zpsd717d309.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/IMG_1661_zpsd717d309.jpg.html)
Hi everyone today I have discovered this thread and this DSP Chip. I want to congratulate with you for your skill in electronic and programming.
I want to ask you if is ready the instruction pdf of the first post or there is a guide to follow to build this pedal.
I'm interested in this EEPROM feature to use more programmed effects, how it works? Is there a guide to follow? I read lot of things on "http://www.spinsemi.com/" and its forum but it is not very clear at the beginning.
I know there is the HEX file posted by Ice-9 but is there also a source code where i can understand what is happening or it is not possible?
I'm sorry for all those questions but I want to know how to program this kind of DSP and not only copy your work to contribute to the evolution of the project (if it is possible).
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 09, 2014, 07:00:51 PM
It's a little pcb to hold an 8 position switch for program changes of the FV-1.
Nice! Thanks for this!
Quote from: Rebel_88 on July 12, 2014, 10:00:04 AM
Hi everyone today I have discovered this thread and this DSP Chip. I want to congratulate with you for your skill in electronic and programming.
I want to ask you if is ready the instruction pdf of the first post or there is a guide to follow to build this pedal.
I'm interested in this EEPROM feature to use more programmed effects, how it works? Is there a guide to follow? I read lot of things on "http://www.spinsemi.com/" and its forum but it is not very clear at the beginning.
I know there is the HEX file posted by Ice-9 but is there also a source code where i can understand what is happening or it is not possible?
I'm sorry for all those questions but I want to know how to program this kind of DSP and not only copy your work to contribute to the evolution of the project (if it is possible).
Take a look here:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=107927.0
Quote from: Digital Larry on July 12, 2014, 12:31:06 PM
Quote from: Rebel_88 on July 12, 2014, 10:00:04 AM
Hi everyone today I have discovered this thread and this DSP Chip. I want to congratulate with you for your skill in electronic and programming.
I want to ask you if is ready the instruction pdf of the first post or there is a guide to follow to build this pedal.
I'm interested in this EEPROM feature to use more programmed effects, how it works? Is there a guide to follow? I read lot of things on "http://www.spinsemi.com/" and its forum but it is not very clear at the beginning.
I know there is the HEX file posted by Ice-9 but is there also a source code where i can understand what is happening or it is not possible?
I'm sorry for all those questions but I want to know how to program this kind of DSP and not only copy your work to contribute to the evolution of the project (if it is possible).
Take a look here:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=107927.0
Yeah Digital Larry's Spincad program really can make build your own programs easy.
All the info on building the FV-1 is within this thread, It has got to be a large thread and may be difficult to find all the info in an orderly fashion.
I will zip everything up that I still have on the hard drive and post it in one file. This will include all the asm files as well which are all just slightly modded files that are available elsewhere.
Thank you for your help and your time spent for us.
The spinsemi site is interesting but it is not very clear, for example on this page http://www.spinsemi.com/mixer_application.html (http://www.spinsemi.com/mixer_application.html) you can find examples of hardware and firmware but it is not for a beginner of this chip.
I have a question about the EEPROM: on the application note http://www.spinsemi.com/Products/datasheets/spn1001/FV-1.pdf (http://www.spinsemi.com/Products/datasheets/spn1001/FV-1.pdf) (General Description page 4 ) is used an EEPROM without a pic controller and you can select it using the T0 pin and use the S0,S1,S2 to choose one of the 8 program on it. Why did you used the PIC controller? I serached in the Thread but didn't understand why, sorry if you have already answered to this question.
Thank your again for help is very important and appreciated.
On the schematic on page 5 of the FV-1.pdf it uses switches connected to S0, S1 and S2 to choose which program you want. If a switch is closed the pin is connected to 0 Volts and if the switch is open the pin is connected to 3.3 Volts by the 20K resistor, this gives you eight options from 0 to 7 as shown in the table "Counting in binary" here https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binary_numeral_system (https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Binary_numeral_system). If T0 is connected to 0 Volts this selects the internal programs 0 - 7 as shown on page 4 of the FV-1.pdf, if T0 is connected to 3.3 Volts it selects programs 0 - 7 from the EEPROM instead.
The PIC replaces the 3 switches, 3 of the outputs of the PIC are connected to the S0, S1 and S2 pins and can send either 0 or 3.3 Volts to the pins. A pot connected to one of the PIC's inputs controls what binary number is sent to the S pins and so chooses the program. You can see it in action here, the pot on the left selects between different programs.
Hope that makes sense.
Thanks Ian, you beat me to the answer to that question.
Just to add to this.
I decided to go down the pic route to control the program selection as I found it nearly impossible to find an 8 position binary switch that was small enough to fit everything in a 1590b enclosure (about the size of a 16mm pot) and at a reasonable price. So on the pcb a pic was added with the switching code that can output the needed switching combinations and all from the input of an normal potentiometer. The only drawback with the pot is that there is no distinct switch click positions for the 8 effects.
I then found a source of inexpensive 1P8T switches which were of a good footprint size, so I set about making this work with the pic using the same 3 connection a pot would connect to making it a straight forward replacement for the pot but with the advantage of the position clicks for accurate selection of the 8 effects.
I also put 4 wire connection points on this PCB so that the pic can be left out completely so that other ways to do the switching could be used. It's now quite possible to use the same 8 position switch I have used with a diode configuration to directly output the binary and do away with the pic chip. ( I have to design a little PCB for this as I already did for the previous switch which I will also upload to OSHpark for anyone to use.)
Anyway to put it into the reason for the pic+pot over 3 bit binary switch, it was down to cost and size. the first being about £2 and with a small size while the second option was about £17 and too big to fit.
The PIC software was written by Slacker and performs flawlessly and with a minor mod and a 16 way switch could easily select both the internal and external programs, or for that matter 2 external eeproms could be used with the 16 way switch and code.
I will upload all the files I have in one Rar file tonight if I can get them done in time before the World Cup Final. :) Otherwise it will be Monday.
Ahh ok thank you I've got it! It is only a trick used instead of a 3 way binary selector. I did the same in a Atmega controlled pedal but I used rotary switch and optocoupler between ICs. Now it is very clear and easy to understand.
So you use a selector on the PIC and it creates the 3bit address for the FV-1 used to select the 0..7 program on the EEPROM.
Another question is on the EEPROM programming. I have read the guide of the software used by spinsemi, the SPINAsm http://www.spinsemi.com/Products/datasheets/spn1001-dev/SPINAsmUserManual.pdf (http://www.spinsemi.com/Products/datasheets/spn1001-dev/SPINAsmUserManual.pdf), but i have some trouble.
When i want to program the EEPROM (page 20 of the manual) I have to create all my 8 sketch and use the SpinAsm Project Mode Dialog
At the end I have to connect only the EEPROM to the programmer and after put it in the circuit board? I cant understand it very well because the manual is referred to the development board and i don't understand if i have to let the SPN1001 connected or not.
In this way i can program N eeprom and I could choose one of them by Mux/demux and have 8*N +8 effects.
The Spin docs describe how to program the Eeprom that is on the Spin Dev board which has it's own usb interface built in and can directly flash the eeprom on the Dev board.
One way to program other FV-1 based designs that have an Eeprom (including this one) is to use the Spin Software to make your programs and and save them as you would normally, tick the box that says 'intel hex' and press the 'build' button.
This saves the hex file to be used in any programmer. I use a Pickit2 which connects with 3 or 4 wires to the pedal as in the picture below. I use 4 wires so there is no need to power the pedal while programming the Eeprom. the Eeprom is flashed in situ, no need to remove it. See picture below for programmer connections which are the same for all suitable programmers.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/pickit2_zpsd1a62303.png) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/pickit2_zpsd1a62303.png.html)
Thankyou very much for your help!I have ordered the FV-1 chip, the EEPROM, and a PICKIT2 programmer, now i have to learn how to use it and program the EEPROM because i have used other chip.
Is there a better quality schematic? i can't read the value of parts also if i download the image.
Here are some of the docs and schematics I have at hand, no asm files in this yet but as soon as I can find them I will post them up as well.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqUFFjZGhIQl9XaFk/edit?usp=sharing (https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqUFFjZGhIQl9XaFk/edit?usp=sharing)
List of files in this rar
1. schematic hi res
2. Parts list
3. Eeprom hex file
4. some pictures.
Thank You for sharing your work it will help me( i sent the request for the access to the material)
I hope to contribute to the thread in the future and give back at least a part of the favour.
The link should work now, I hadn't set it to share before, let me know if you still can't download it.
Download works now. Thanks!
Thank you, the link works very well! :icon_biggrin:
The file .hex is referred to the EEPROM?
Quote from: Rebel_88 on July 15, 2014, 02:11:01 AM
Thank you, the link works very well! :icon_biggrin:
The file .hex is referred to the EEPROM?
The file .hex is the file that contains the complete set of 8 effects programs that are compiled ready to write to the Eeprom.
Thank you very much!
For the power protection i found a P mosfet that might be good.
It is a AO4407 with :
- Vds -30V
- Vgs +-25v
- Rds on at 9V 14mOhm,
- Vth -2V
And it is very cheap, on ebay 10 for 2 € http://www.ebay.it/itm/10PCS-NEW-4407-AO4407-AO4407A-SOP8-P-Channel-MOSFET-IC-/140876914882?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20cceb20c2 (http://www.ebay.it/itm/10PCS-NEW-4407-AO4407-AO4407A-SOP8-P-Channel-MOSFET-IC-/140876914882?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item20cceb20c2).
If you want to use this kind of mos i think you have to change the 10V Zener diode and use a 6V.
Finally I got around to finding most of the ASM files for the effects, there isn't much change from the original programs that are scattered around on other sites but it is nice to have them in a rar file here. Most of the code has working explanations within the code.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqZklTcGp5VG44ekU/edit?usp=sharing
@Ice-9 Everything is coming together now. The parts i ordered form Mouser took forever so i could not assemble the FV-1 until this weekend. The effect-sound is great. No noise or hum at all. Very clean and crisp. It sounds great with my Strat and PRS. Only the volume level of the effects is too low.
The teensy now handles the program switching and FV-1 programming via usb. Still very buggy but i am getting closer. Next up is the OLED display to show parameter changes and program names.
(http://alphakanal.de/static/images/diy/fv-1_teensy_oled.jpg)
Quote from: loopmasta on July 20, 2014, 11:42:09 AM
@Ice-9 Everything is coming together now. The parts i ordered form Mouser took forever so i could not assemble the FV-1 until this weekend. The effect-sound is great. No noise or hum at all. Very clean and crisp. It sounds great with my Strat and PRS. Only the volume level of the effects is too low.
The teensy now handles the program switching and FV-1 programming via usb. Still very buggy but i am getting closer. Next up is the OLED display to show parameter changes and program names.
Great that is all working, the volume of the effects should be the same as the bypass volume, check C7 is the correct value (cap just above C12 and above FV-1) should be 1n. I once accidentally put a 100n here and that caused a huge drop in the effect volume so worth a check.
Also I see you have a resistor in place at R2 just under the polarity protection - replace R2 with a link for correct voltage to the op amp.
If you still feel you need a volume boost then fit the components C9, C10, R11, R12. (this shouldn't be needed if the circuit is working correctly as these components are for the eTap2HW firmware only)
The Teensy looks a great idea and I love that little OLED. Interested to see what you do with that.
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 20, 2014, 12:00:13 PM
... the volume of the effects should be the same as the bypass volume, check C7 is the correct value (cap just above C12 and above FV-1) should be 1n. I once accidentally put a 100n here and that caused a huge drop in the effect volume so worth a check. Also I see you have a resistor in place at R2 just under the polarity protection - replace R2 with a link for correct voltage to the op amp.
I double checked C7. It should be ok. http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C322C102F5G5TA/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduifLrgx8NrpMly8FLUOuhphe3Fev%252bwFWPCJkKxl4s9pVQ%3d%3d
R2 is 33R according to the first layout but i see now that you changed a few things. So now R2, R6, R14 are links?
Quote from: loopmasta on July 20, 2014, 12:35:09 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 20, 2014, 12:00:13 PM
... the volume of the effects should be the same as the bypass volume, check C7 is the correct value (cap just above C12 and above FV-1) should be 1n. I once accidentally put a 100n here and that caused a huge drop in the effect volume so worth a check. Also I see you have a resistor in place at R2 just under the polarity protection - replace R2 with a link for correct voltage to the op amp.
I double checked C7. It should be ok. http://de.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Kemet/C322C102F5G5TA/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduifLrgx8NrpMly8FLUOuhphe3Fev%252bwFWPCJkKxl4s9pVQ%3d%3d
R2 is 33R according to the first layout but i see now that you changed a few things. So now R2, R6, R14 are links?
Replacing R2 (33ohm) with a link will allow the full voltage of 9v to reach the analogue circuits correctly. the other changes to R6 R14 make no difference to the working of the circuit. If all the components are the correct value then the volume should be equal in effect and bypass modes. Let me know if you have any problems.
Hi I'm Watching the 1P8T switch made by Ice-9, it has 11 resistor, doesn't it should have only 9 resistor? 7 of the same dimension for the voltage divider, one for the end of the voltage divider and one bigger to keep down the pin of the pic when it needs?
There are 11 resistors because you used in series to get the last two bigger? or is there another idea?
Thanks for all the great work guys, this is the opening I've been waiting for to properly get into DSP!
This is definitely my next build, then.... the (blue)sky's the limit!! *groan*
Thanks again for all the hard work and for sharing your knowledge. :icon_biggrin: I'll post pics and a build report at some point, if it'll help.
Joe
Quote from: Rebel_88 on July 21, 2014, 01:50:54 AM
Hi I'm Watching the 1P8T switch made by Ice-9, it has 11 resistor, doesn't it should have only 9 resistor? 7 of the same dimension for the voltage divider, one for the end of the voltage divider and one bigger to keep down the pin of the pic when it needs?
There are 11 resistors because you used in series to get the last two bigger? or is there another idea?
The resistors are all 2k7 with the last two on each end of the chain being in parallel, this gets the voltage to the most accurate divisions to for correct switching. In all the tests I made, 9 resistors all the same value works just fine as well though. I just left the PCB with the 11 sets of resistor pads rather than change it.
Quote from: loopmasta on July 20, 2014, 11:42:09 AM
@Ice-9 Everything is coming together now. The parts i ordered form Mouser took forever so i could not assemble the FV-1 until this weekend. The effect-sound is great. No noise or hum at all. Very clean and crisp. It sounds great with my Strat and PRS. Only the volume level of the effects is too low.
The teensy now handles the program switching and FV-1 programming via usb. Still very buggy but i am getting closer. Next up is the OLED display to show parameter changes and program names.
(http://alphakanal.de/static/images/diy/fv-1_teensy_oled.jpg)
@loopmasta, did you track down the volume drop problem? If I can help let me know.
Here's something ive been working on.
It's a simple mod to the pedal,take four wires (S0,S1,S2,ground) soldered to the pcb to a 4 pin 2.5mm
socket ( http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg08265/2-5mm-jack-socket-4p/dp/AV15097 ) , you'll also need a 4pin 2.5mm jack to jack lead ( http://cpc.farnell.com/pro-signal/psg03512/2-5mm-4p-jack-lead-1-8m/dp/AV20160?crosssellid=AV20160&crosssell=true&in_merch=true& ).
So now you need a box for the footswitch and the 16x2 lcd display and the arduino( i used a Uno, but you could use something smaller as only 2 analog pins and 4 digital pins are needed and the code is very compact and simple to modify).
Here's the schem....
(http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff352/tacromx/arduinoS0S1S2effectselectorforfv_1rev.jpg)
and the sketch code.....
//Coded by Tacromx
// Basic code for controlling effect selection on FV-1 Reverb ic.
// connections are... footswitch on pin 13, footswitch indicator on pin 9, S0,S1,S2 on pins 12,11,10
// constants won't change. They're used here to
// set pin numbers:
#include <Wire.h>
#include <LiquidTWI.h>
// Connect via i2c, default address #0 (A0-A2 not jumpered)
LiquidTWI lcd(0);
const int footswitch = 13; // the number of the pushbutton pin
// variables:
int count = 0;
int buttonState = 0; // variable for reading the pushbutton status
// the setup routine runs once when you press reset:
void setup() {
// initialize the digital pin as an output/input
pinMode(footswitch, INPUT);
pinMode(9, OUTPUT); // footswitch indicator led
pinMode(12, OUTPUT); // S0
pinMode(11, OUTPUT); // S1
pinMode(10, OUTPUT); // S2
// set up the LCD's number of rows and columns:
lcd.begin(16, 2);
// Print a message to the LCD.
}
// the loop() method runs over and over again,
// as long as the Arduino has power
void loop() {
// set the cursor to column 0, line 1
// (note: line 1 is the second row, since counting begins with 0):
lcd.setCursor(0, 0);
// read the state of the pushbutton value:
buttonState = digitalRead(footswitch);
// check if the pushbutton is pressed.
// if it is, the buttonState is HIGH:
if (buttonState == HIGH) {
count++; // add one (1) to our count
PORTB |= _BV (1); // digitalWrite (9, HIGH);
}
else {
// count = count
PORTB &= ~_BV (1); // digitalWrite (9, LOW);
if (count >= 8) { // test if we reach effect no 8
(count = 0); // if yes, reset to effect no 1
}
}
delay(100);
//code below sets S0 S1 S2 output pins to the FV-1
// change " * " to name of effect
// 000
if (count == 0) {
PORTB &= ~_BV (2); // digitalWrite (10, LOW);
PORTB &= ~_BV (3); // digitalWrite (11, LOW);
PORTB &= ~_BV (4); // digitalWrite (12, LOW);
lcd.print("EFFECT 1");
delay(100);
}
// 100
if (count == 1) {
PORTB |= _BV (2); // digitalWrite (10, HIGH);
PORTB &= ~_BV (3); // digitalWrite (11, LOW);
PORTB &= ~_BV (4); // digitalWrite (12, LOW);
lcd.print("EFFECT 2");
delay(100);
}
//010
if (count == 2) {
PORTB &= ~_BV (2); // digitalWrite (10, LOW);
PORTB |= _BV (3); // digitalWrite (11, HIGH);
PORTB &= ~_BV (4); // digitalWrite (12, LOW);
lcd.print("EFFECT 3");
delay(100);
}
// 110
if (count == 3) {
PORTB |= _BV (2); // digitalWrite (10, HIGH);
PORTB |= _BV (3); // digitalWrite (11, HIGH);
PORTB &= ~_BV (4); // digitalWrite (12, LOW);
lcd.print("EFFECT 4");
delay(100);
}
//001
if (count == 4) {
PORTB &= ~_BV (2); // digitalWrite (10, LOW);
PORTB &= ~_BV (3); // digitalWrite (11, LOW);
PORTB |= _BV (4); // digitalWrite (12, HIGH);
lcd.print("EFFECT 5");
delay(100);
}
// 101
if (count == 5) {
PORTB |= _BV (2); // digitalWrite (10, HIGH);
PORTB &= ~_BV (3); // digitalWrite (11, LOW);
PORTB |= _BV (4); // digitalWrite (12, HIGH);
lcd.print("EFFECT 6");
delay(100);
}
//011
if (count == 6) {
PORTB &= ~_BV (2); // digitalWrite (10, LOW);
PORTB |= _BV (3); // digitalWrite (11, HIGH);
PORTB |= _BV (4); // digitalWrite (12, HIGH);
lcd.print("EFFECT 7");
delay(100);
}
// 111
if (count == 7) {
PORTB |= _BV (2); // digitalWrite (10, HIGH);
PORTB |= _BV (3); // digitalWrite (11, HIGH);
PORTB |= _BV (4); // digitalWrite (12, HIGH);
lcd.print("EFFECT 8");
delay(100);
}
}
you need an I2C lcd controller too by the way
DELAY WITH REPEATS
Here is some code for a simple delay which has controls for 'Delay Time' up to 1 second. 'Feedback' which controls the repeats and 'Mix' well you can work that one out for yourselves. :)
The delay control can be modified within the code to have it act like an analogue pot with a frequency sweep as you change the time or a near silent zipper sweep.
There is no filtering on the feedback so it is very clean and digital with no degradation on the repeats.
The Mix can be changed in the code- it can either adjust the volume of the echo from 0-10 mixed with the dry or it can be dry only fully ccw 50/50 in the middle and wet only cw.
;Mono delay in left chan with dry and repeats
;Mono delay in right chan wet signal only
;Pot0 = dry wet mix
;Pot1 = delay time
;Pot2 = feedback
;---------------------------declarations---------------------------------
equ del 32365 ; Length of delay
mem echo del ; echo delay
equ del_read reg0
equ del_out reg1
equ dry_in reg2
equ fbk reg3
equ smooth 0.000125 ; Adjust to your liking of speed/noise tradeoff
;---------------------------------------------------------------------
;Clear register on start
skp RUN, loop
clr
wrax del_read,0
loop:
;----------------------------------------------------------------------
;Get feedback value from pot2
rdax pot2,0.7
wrax fbk,0
;----------------------------------------------------------------------
;Select tap from delay based on pot1, should range 0 to del
;Since pot only has 512 states, want to filter pot to avoid jumping
;Smooth POT1
clr ; Clear the ACC
or del*256 ; Put delay del into ACC alligned to ACC[22:8]
mulx pot1 ; Multiply by POT1, new target value
rdfx del_read, smooth ; Smooth it : (target - current) * C + current
wrax del_read, 0 ; Save it
rdax adcl, 0.5 ; Get left input and divide by 2
rdax adcr, 0.5 ; Get right input and divide by 2
wra echo, 1.0 ; Write it to the head of the delay
wrax dry_in, 0 ; Write dry input sig to dry_in register and clear ACC
rdax del_read, 1.0 ; Get the delay tap to read
wrax addr_ptr, 0 ; Write it to the address pointer register
rmpa 1 ; Read from memory
wrax del_out, 0 ; write to del_out register and clear ACC
;-------------------------------------------------------------------------
;allowing for feedback:
rdax del_out,1
mulx fbk
rdax adcl,0.5
rdax adcr,0.5
wrax dry_in,1
wra echo,0
;-----------------------------------------------------------------------
;Now do output mixing
rdax del_out,1
wrax dacr,1 ; Wet only to right channel output
;rdax dry_in,-1 ; using this line will allow the wet/dry mix to be ccw dry only
; and cw wet only. rem this line for 100% dry with wet/dry adjusting
; the delay level only.
mulx pot0
rdax dry_in,1
wrax dacl,0 ; Dry wet mix to left channel output
Hope you like it.
If anyone's interested here are the programs from my Babelfish project, apart from the tap tempo delay they should all run fine on Mick's pedal, feel free to do what you like with them.
babelfish.zip (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=48978)
Thanks Slacker! I'm interested in any and all.
+1, Thanks Slacker.
The tap tempo code could be made to work with the pcb without too much modification. The right FV-1 output is not connected to anything so it could be brought into action by adding the LED driver for the tempo LED that your tap tempo code uses. The two ways that come to mind are :-
1. Use a larger enclosure to house the PCB and use the extra room to add the momentary footswitch and the needed resistors LED etc.
2. Use the original size 1590b enclosure, by utilizing the battery space the 2 foot switches could be wired alongside each other in that space + add the extra few resistors and tempo led drive circuitry.
I will have a look and see where the best points on the PCB are to do this when I get a chance.
Thanks for posting the code. :icon_biggrin:
I'm trying to modify the SpinCAD Designer source code to add a "runtime" (or "on the fly") eeprom programmer feature.
This is the first screenshot of the application.
(http://i59.tinypic.com/oiaa1y.png)
Welcome :) Interesting stuff, what hardware are you planning to use to program the EEPROM? Look forward to seeing what you come up with.
Hi guys
Dkmorb, I like your idea!
as for me, I'm just 'printing' hex code to an atmel http://www.spinsemi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=428 (http://www.spinsemi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=428)
Maybe you could add a print option? (Well, I might be the only one flashing code this way...)
BTW, Digital Larry: nice work with SpinCAD
Hi iami,
can you provide us your project hardware schema?
I will analyze the code next days.
Bye.
You should find everything in my post on the spinsemi forum (link just above)
There is a zip file with code&pcb (not sure about schematics though)
Presumably, as a result of being able to program the eeprom it will also be able to produce a hex file?
@ Ian,
we have member function:
public int[] generateHex()
in Elmgen ElmProgram class.
I think we must take care about this point...
@iami
DoH!!! Sorry! :icon_redface:
@iami
I found the code...but not the schematics in the archive.
Wow, somebody's actually adding functionality to SpinCAD! Be still my heart. :icon_lol: I have made a ton of changes since I put up the GPL source code. I really need to figure out how to put that stuff all at GitHub and furthermore use Git myself. I've just been using Subversion for so long that it's a little hard for this old dog to learn new tricks. Yes there certainly is a generate hex function in ElmGen. If you can get that working and want to share it with the world, let me know.
@dkmorb : sorry about that, you will find another zip witch schema here : http://betapoc.com/data/ (http://betapoc.com/data/)
(those are kicad files)
Quote from: dkmorb on August 14, 2014, 10:37:43 AM
@ Ian,
we have member function:
public int[] generateHex()
in Elmgen ElmProgram class.
I think we must take care about this point...
Look closer in ElmGen source code; Andrew Kilpatrick has also supplied these classes which are not yet used for anything in SpinCAD Designer:
EEPromHandler
EEPromProgrammer
Andrew connected these using the RxTx library to some Arduino sketch he came up with. I'm reasonably confident that they could be adapted at some level to a variety of hardware programming alternatives. I have not looked into this at all.
Hi I'm trying to get the SpinCAD Designer from the http://holycityaudio.com/ but the forum is not longer available.
When i want to go on http://holycityaudio.com/forum/ i found a message :
"We've moved to http://holycityaudio.com/forum!"
But i'm just here?!
I was waiting that my account was approved but now i can't go on to get the file. Someone could help me?
Good morning; sorry, the Holy City Audio forum is currently down for maintenance. I'm having my webmaster add a plugin to help stop the armies of spambots who like to come visit every time I post something here. I guess they follow the link in my sig. I'll letcha know when it's back up. Thanks very much for your interest.
DL
Quote
Look closer in ElmGen source code; Andrew Kilpatrick has also supplied these classes which are not yet used for anything in SpinCAD Designer:
EEPromHandler
EEPromProgrammer
Andrew connected these using the RxTx library to some Arduino sketch he came up with. I'm reasonably confident that they could be adapted at some level to a variety of hardware programming alternatives. I have not looked into this at all.
Yep, Digital "old dog" Larry,
they are the classes i used in my simple programmer.
Let me test just a little the code I produced on a "real" board.
I connected the arduino by rxtx library and, after some changes to old sketch code, it seems to work.
Quote from: dkmorb on August 18, 2014, 03:00:55 AM
Quote
Look closer in ElmGen source code; Andrew Kilpatrick has also supplied these classes which are not yet used for anything in SpinCAD Designer:
EEPromHandler
EEPromProgrammer
Andrew connected these using the RxTx library to some Arduino sketch he came up with. I'm reasonably confident that they could be adapted at some level to a variety of hardware programming alternatives. I have not looked into this at all.
Yep, Digital "old dog" Larry,
they are the classes i used in my simple programmer.
Let me test just a little the code I produced on a "real" board.
I connected the arduino by rxtx library and, after some changes to old sketch code, it seems to work.
This sound like another great extension to the SpinCad Designer, I look forward to seeing this progress.
I'm getting a little confused here.
dkmorb apparently is using an Arduino to connect directly to the EEPROM's i2c lines for programming a full bank of 8 programs in one shot, as demonstrated in the sample application supplied with ElmGen.
iami is using an Atmel on USB configured as a generic printer device to write 1 program at a time (as a hex file) to the Atmel micro, which is impersonating an EEPROm for the FV-1's sake.
I certainly feel the limitation of only 8 programs at a time, yet for a pedal, I don't want to overdo it, so the number 24 seems manageable. However it seems a little cumbersome to write the programs 1 at a time. Is there a simple way with this printer driver concept to write banks of 8 or even all 24? That's why I brought up the other classes - at some point in the code you can draw a line and say "below here is the hardware specific programmer implementation".
Since I mostly use Linux these days I'd like to get away from the need to use the Spin IDE completely - although I do consider it a final sanity check on the code still. So I would like to find a programming solution that works on Mac, Windoze, and Linux.
Thx,
DL
OK Holy City Audio forum is back up. Wow that took a couple of days. :icon_cry:
But now hopefully I won't need to spend lots of time reviewing spambot accounts. :icon_lol:
http://holycityaudio.com/forum
By the way, I am hoping to release a new beta version of SpinCAD Designer within a few days that has yet some more bug fixes and a new block or two and even some minor UI improvements.
Thanks,
DL
I thought I would post this as a demo for the forum project, the two pedals played here are exactly the same as the forum FV-1 circuit and with the same software installed but they are the pedals I sell on my site so ignore the pedal names etc.
Adam has made a great demo of the sounds available and the full intro tune is built up using just the FV-1 pedals, so just as an example of the sounds that the FV-1 project is about here is the youtube vid. All the software is available and in the thread for DIY use.
Amazing video...
I'm going to collect info's about this chip..
Wondering about input signal.
The Spin chip supply is 3,3V
onto datasheet analog input is +/- 0.5V (max 1V signal)
so...
What it happen whether the input signal exceed the tollerance ? L'et's say I use this reverb after a TS9 Overdrive (approx 3V....)
Is there a phisical clip of the signal or there is a demage of the chip ? (On the videothere is both OD+REVERB is it the pedal orthere is a stack ?)
also :
What you suggest me
1) take this board project (that looks really great !)
or
2) take the Spin Developmentboard ?
If you are an experienced builder then you could try the project. The Spin dev board is OK for evaluating and developing patches but is not good as a standalone guitar pedal, as the input impedance is too low. I am using a Spin dev board in the effects loop of my Tech 21 Trademark 60 and it works OK there (at home, anyway).
Quote from: Mbas974 on August 31, 2014, 01:04:14 PM
Wondering about input signal.
The Spin chip supply is 3,3V
onto datasheet analog input is +/- 0.5V (max 1V signal)
You misread the datasheet, the analog signal in max is 3,3Vp-p but it would clip and distort at that level so we recommend you run at a max of 3,0Vp-p
Thank you both guys !
Quote from: Mbas974 on August 31, 2014, 01:04:14 PM
Amazing video...
I'm going to collect info's about this chip..
Wondering about input signal.
The Spin chip supply is 3,3V
onto datasheet analog input is +/- 0.5V (max 1V signal)
so...
What it happen whether the input signal exceed the tollerance ? L'et's say I use this reverb after a TS9 Overdrive (approx 3V....)
Is there a phisical clip of the signal or there is a demage of the chip ? (On the videothere is both OD+REVERB is it the pedal orthere is a stack ?)
also :
What you suggest me
1) take this board project (that looks really great !)
or
2) take the Spin Developmentboard ?
Stacking other pedals in line with a FV-1 based pedal like these is no problem for levels, as octfrank has mentioned the FV-1 input signal is 3v p-p, as with any delay or reverb though the best placement would be in the amps fx loop especially if overdrive and distortion is used. If used in the amps input then they should go after the distortion type fx. I'm sure you already knew that though.
There are advantages to using either the pedal or the dev board.
1. The pedal has all the input and output circuitry suitable for guitar and bass. It can be fully reprogrammed with new software with a cheap usb programmer, and it is a useable gig-able pedal.
2. The dev board has built in usb to program the software. It has stereo in/out.
3. A third option is to use Piet's kit along with Frank's SKRM module.
I think I will soon look at a new pcb design to add stereo, signal re routing and mixing to allow the dry signal to pass through without going into the DSP. This will have the advantage of freeing up one of the FV-1 control pots to be used elsewhere.
Thanks Ice-9 !
Stereo sound will be great too !
Do you think it will be possible to have 2 separate effects processed at the same time (like a dual delay) ?
Did you ever consider to improve the analog signal treatment by adding a circuit close to BBE sonic maximizere (for istance) ?
Finally I think your board is the best option,
but I will go developing my own board using ATmel family... where I'm alreaky skilled.
Hey Mick,
I'm trying to assemble your circuit; I've just a question: can I use 1uF 100v instead of 16v? I've tons of Elna's... :D
Bye.
Yes you can use 100v caps, 16v is just a good minimum value anything above that will work, providing they'll fit.
Quote from: Mbas974 on August 31, 2014, 01:04:14 PM
What it happen whether the input signal exceed the tollerance ?
You can add some protection against large signals by adding a couple of diodes to the input of the FV-1 as shown in this schematic (http://www.aronnelson.com/gallery/main.php/v/slackers-stuff/babelfish/babelfishschem.jpg.html?g2_imageViewsIndex=1) D1 and D2 clamp the input to just above 3.3 Volts peak to peak. I've tested this by running a large signal into the input of the design, the input opamp buffer clips at about 6 Volts peak to peak, so that is the signal getting to the FV-1, it survived without any damage after running the signal for a few minutes.
Quote from: dkmorb on September 02, 2014, 03:20:32 AM
Hey Mick,
I'm trying to assemble your circuit; I've just a question: can I use 1uF 100v instead of 16v? I've tons of Elna's... :D
Bye.
Yeah you can use the 100v caps, as mentioned just watch out for the physical size, may need to lay them lay them flat if possible under the pots.
Quote from: Mbas974 on September 01, 2014, 05:25:21 PM
Finally I think your board is the best option,
but I will go developing my own board using ATmel family... where I'm alreaky skilled.
That sounds good, I look forward to see which direction you take with the Atmel route. I quite fancy the idea of incorporating an LCD with and the ability to name and store pre-sets.
Ians babelfish pedal has a LCD which is a few replies up in this thread.
Clipping signal with diodes is the easier solution. And for sure choice 1, but If I can built a small peak indicator (small in term of components used and easy) I'll put my choise on an input attenuator (like a voltage divider or like that..) In this way the input signal could arrive to FV1 as is with no additional clip.
LCD is cheap and very good choice.. but for my learning curve on FV1, it will take place on wave 2 :-)
My priorities are :
1) Respect of analog input signal : No additional clip, and No A/D D/A for the DRY
2) FX signal out of FV1 should has an analogic feeling as much as possible
3) 1590BB enclosure max size
Thanks again guys for your contribution ( I hope in a near future to start a tread with the result ! )
Just incase this is of any use to anyone.....
I also have the proteus design files if anyone wants them, ill be happy to pass them on.
Havent even started the coding yet ::)
I2C lcd interface connects on A4,A5
(http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff352/tacromx/fv-1/fv-1reverbdelaysmdschem.png) (http://s539.photobucket.com/user/tacromx/media/fv-1/fv-1reverbdelaysmdschem.png.html)
(http://i539.photobucket.com/albums/ff352/tacromx/fv-1/FV-1REVERBDELAYpcb.png) (http://s539.photobucket.com/user/tacromx/media/fv-1/FV-1REVERBDELAYpcb.png.html)
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 02, 2014, 03:59:56 PM
Yeah you can use the 100v caps, as mentioned just watch out for the physical size, may need to lay them lay them flat if possible under the pots.
Well, i will use http://www.musikding.de/Box-Type-BB to include an Arduino board inside, so...I think I haven't any problem under the pots.
Bye.
Quote from: tacromx on September 03, 2014, 03:13:33 AM
Just incase this is of any use to anyone.....
I also have the proteus design files if anyone wants them, ill be happy to pass them on.
I want it if possible ;D
Why not using Arduino nano?
...sorry for the OT.
what is the library in eagly to get FV1 device (it should be SOJ28X) but I can't find any..
Thanks in advance.
the files are here....
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/hg2tugqbd5qn6s6/AAD_9ssl4HFkWEEXONrc6OCMa?dl=0
:)
Hey guys,
I have now just two simple mono jack for input/output connection.
How can I connect them to circuit to quickly test it?
Can you provide me a picture of connections on PCB?
Thanks,
dkmorb.
Quote from: Mbas974 on September 03, 2014, 10:10:58 AM
...sorry for the OT.
what is the library in eagly to get FV1 device (it should be SOJ28X) but I can't find any..
Thanks in advance.
28 SOIC 300 MIL Package
Quote from: dkmorb on September 09, 2014, 03:40:34 PM
Hey guys,
I have now just two simple mono jack for input/output connection.
How can I connect them to circuit to quickly test it?
Can you provide me a picture of connections on PCB?
Thanks,
dkmorb.
This picture should help you with off board mono jack connections.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/psubatmonojackconnections_zps58a1a8d0.gif) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/psubatmonojackconnections_zps58a1a8d0.gif.html)
Remember that the stereo jack on the input is used to switch battery power when a jack is inserted so with a mono jack socket place a link where there is a thick black line drawn.
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 10, 2014, 12:13:00 PM
This picture should help you with off board mono jack connections.
Remember that the stereo jack on the input is used to switch battery power when a jack is inserted so with a mono jack socket place a link where there is a thick black line drawn.
Hey Mick...it works great!!! Now it's time to connect to usb ;-)
Quote from: dkmorb on September 10, 2014, 12:50:05 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 10, 2014, 12:13:00 PM
This picture should help you with off board mono jack connections.
Remember that the stereo jack on the input is used to switch battery power when a jack is inserted so with a mono jack socket place a link where there is a thick black line drawn.
Hey Mick...it works great!!! Now it's time to connect to usb ;-)
That's great Pasquale, I'm glad you got it up and running. I look forward to seeing your results on the usb. :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 11, 2014, 07:40:01 PM
That's great Pasquale, I'm glad you got it up and running. I look forward to seeing your results on the usb. :icon_biggrin:
Hey Mick,
USB works quite well (by arduino) and SpinCADBuilder!
Just anoter question: where can I drill three holes on pcb (copper free :-P )?
@tacromx, @Mbas974, @iami
Why not implementing a common solution based on small arduino (nano, mini,...)?
Do you really need to build your control hardware?
BTW,
I quickly checked iami's code -> nice way to swindle old fv-1 dsp!!! Think about a 25LC1024 SPI instead of internal memory... :o
I quickly checked tacromx's design -> good idea to make "one big board"!!!
:)
i think you may need more I/O ports than a Nano or Mini has, use I/O expander maybe it will work.
Quote from: Ice-9 on August 29, 2014, 02:12:00 PM
I thought I would post this as a demo for the forum project, the two pedals played here are exactly the same as the forum FV-1 circuit and with the same software installed but they are the pedals I sell on my site so ignore the pedal names etc.
Adam has made a great demo of the sounds available and the full intro tune is built up using just the FV-1 pedals, so just as an example of the sounds that the FV-1 project is about here is the youtube vid. All the software is available and in the thread for DIY use.
That was excellent. That guys playing was perfect for those kind of sounds. Great sounding pedals!
dkmorb I'm available for a common solution (programming arduino or desiging in eagle as well)
but I won't coordinate the project.... and better start a new dedicated tread if you want starting this.
Quote from: dkmorb on September 12, 2014, 03:32:06 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 11, 2014, 07:40:01 PM
That's great Pasquale, I'm glad you got it up and running. I look forward to seeing your results on the usb. :icon_biggrin:
Hey Mick,
USB works quite well (by arduino) and SpinCADBuilder!
Just anoter question: where can I drill three holes on pcb (copper free :-P )?
Sorry, I missed this post, I will upload the files of the pcb and you can check for yourself for where you can drill some holes, the files will open directly in diptrace for viewing and editing. I will see if I can do this in about an hour.tonight and they
Here are two pictures of the pcb. The first pic has the copper pour top and bottom in view and the second picture has the copper pours removed.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/pcb_zps00276603.png) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/pcb_zps00276603.png.html)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/pcbnocopper_zpsf9f1148c.png) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/pcbnocopper_zpsf9f1148c.png.html)
I have uploaded the diptrace files which can be used for editing and also make it easier to see what's going on. two files in the rar and again one has the copper pours removed.
Download the free diptrace to view/edit rar file
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqUmJzTjBUQVk3NGc/edit?usp=sharing
Hi,
I have finally built my fv-1 pedal but i have some troubles.
I have not used the pmos because i can't receive that...it is lost somewhere, so i have used only the zener with a current limiter (1Watt 100Ohm resistor).
When i play the instrument i can hear a latency and a bup or buf sound on the guitar.
If i turn pot 0 and pot1 there is no change in the sound but i have cheched them and i think the wire is ok.
The last problem is about the EEPROM, i have loaded your file "final FV-1 project with octave.hex" but when i switch to it i can't hear sound.
I have double checked the circuit before soldering and after soldering to check everything is ok and i had no trouble.
What is your opinion about this?
There is some Voltage reference someone could give me to be sure i have no circuit mistake?
Thankyou for your help.
This is my eagle file sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/FV-1%20DSP%20Pedal.rar (http://sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/FV-1%20DSP%20Pedal.rar)
I'm not sure what you have done around the polarity protection but you can use a 1n400x in a normal way for protection if you can't get the components in the schematic.
First check for correct voltages at the opamp
between pin4 and pin8 = 9v
check the voltage on the 3.3v regulator =3.3v
I can't download your eagle file to check whether it is correct.
Post some pictures of your build also.
*EDIT* I managed to get your pcb layout, It's quite difficult for me to read as I don't use eagle but having a quick look over the layout the first thing that I see is that it looks like your 3.3v regulator is the wrong way around.
Hi,
for the power protection i have used a simply zener voltage limiter with a 10v zener ad 100Ohm 1 Watt resistor.
(http://www.reuk.co.uk/OtherImages/zener-diode-voltage-regulator.gif)
I have created pdf files so you can see what i have created. The schematic is the same of your pedal i have copied it in eagle.
http://sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/FV-1%20DSP%20Pedal_pdf.rar (http://sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/FV-1%20DSP%20Pedal_pdf.rar)
I have 3.3V on the attiny (used to have the 3 bit for the effect address) and other pins that require this voltage.
But i think i have a problem with the 10v Zener, it gives me only 4.5V out of the regulation. Tomorrow i will change it.
I don't think the photo of my circuit will help you so much because the top is so full. If you nedd a better quality or zoomed photo i will do it.
The bottom side is more clear.
(http://sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/DSC_1795.jpg)
(http://sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/DSC_1797.jpg)
(http://sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/DSC_1796.jpg)
I have changed the zener diode but the problem is the same, on the output of the zener i find 5V instead of 9-10.
I can feel the 1 Watt resistor getting warmer it is possible i have to use 2 watt zener and 2 watt resistor to let it works good?
Is this circuit absorb so much?
A 100 Ohm resistor is too big, the FV-1 draws about 50mA which will cause about a 5 Volt drop across 100 Ohms. That's probably why you're only getting 4.5 Volts. If you want to use that setup you need something like 10 Ohms which will only drop about half a Volt.
I would remove the zener and replace the 100 Ohm with a 1N4001 type diode, that will provide reverse polarity protection.
Yeah if your not using the p-Mosfet protection, then a standard diode protection circuit is just fine, 1N400x 100ohm resistor will drop the voltage.
As slacker says ^ remove the zenner and put a 1n400x in place of the 100 ohm resistor for in line diode protection.
In your eagle drawing your 3.3v reg traces look the wrong way around . CHECK THIS FIRST before powering up again.
Hi,
I checked the 3.3V regulator (78l33) according to this datasheet
http://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/22618/STMICROELECTRONICS/L78L33AB/3249/2/L78L33AB.html (http://html.alldatasheet.com/html-pdf/22618/STMICROELECTRONICS/L78L33AB/3249/2/L78L33AB.html)
This is my regulator
(http://sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/3,3V.JPG)
it seems to be not correct! I didn't see that in the datasheet was written "Bottom view" I have to rotate it!
The 78l33 has the same pin of 78l05?! And i have used 78l05 in several projects without problem i don't know why i have opposite pin.
Now something seems to be better but i still hear click sound on my effect.
This is what i hear on every effectsdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/click.mp3 (http://sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/click.mp3)
@Rebel_88 Do you get this click all the time or only while you play,
FIRST CHANGE C8 polarity Positive side towards R10 and the op-amp negative towards pin 28 FV-1 This was revised in a later schematic which I can't seem to find in the thread. It shouldn't cause too much trouble in the short term but swap Do this before going further.
If you can you might try to bypass the FV-1 chip so that only the analogue circuit is involved in the audio path (this can be done by Placing a jumper wire from +end of C6 to + end of C8 after changing C8 around first.
Possible problems
1. Bad opamp. the test above should indicate this.
2. while reg was incorrect way, it would have put the full voltage of the psu to the FV-1 Chip possible damage to chip.
3. dry solder joint on FV-1 chip.
Yes i have this click only when i play guitar.
I did wat you told me.
I have reversed polarity of C8 and after i have byassed the FV-1 Chip.
The sound was clean..so you have bad news for me?
have I broken fv-1 chip?
I think Eagle mirrored the 78l33 and i didn't know it, because watchin the photo i posted on this forum i can see rectangular pin instead circular ones around phisical pin of the ic.
Well at least you can now be sure the analogue stuff is ok so that only leaves the digital, I would first go over the solder joints as it has been known for a solder joint to cause this sort of problem, check the other components around the digital are all correct values and orientation as well.
Do you have a good clean steady 3.3v line now ?
I'm sure there was another thread on here about a similar clicking problem with a SKRM unit, I'm not sure if it was solved but worth checking the thread to see.
Failing all this i'm afraid the FV-1 could be damaged. :( Although they are quite a sturdy chip so fingers crossed.
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 21, 2014, 08:01:01 AM
I'm sure there was another thread on here about a similar clicking problem with a SKRM unit, I'm not sure if it was solved but worth checking the thread to see.
My recollection is that the problem went away after swapping the SKRM module. I think that one was on the Spin Forum.
That sounds like clipping to me, seems to be roughly in time with the modulation, does it do it if you reduce your guitars volume? Posting the voltages from all the the FV-1 pins might help.
Hi i don't think it is a problem with clipping because it is periodical peak found on the sound so there is some other reason.
Those are my voltage referring to GND.
I can't understand what are you saying about the SKIM module...What i have to search?
Voltage In 8,23
TL072
1 4,13
2 4,13
3 3,39
4 0,00
5 4,06
6 0,00
7 0,00
8 8,23
FV-1
1 1,65
2 1,65
3 1,65
4 0,00
5 3,32
6 3,33
7 0,00
8 3,33
9 1,51
10 1,10
11 0,00
12 0,00
13 0,00
14 3,31
15 3,31
16 3,34
17 3,33
18 0,00
19 0,00
20 0,68
21 0,00
22 3,33
23 3,33
24 0,00
25 0,00
26 3,31
27 1,70
28 1,70
78l33
1 3,34
2 0,00
3 8,23
24lc32a
1 0,00
2 0,00
3 0,00
4 0,00
5 3,31
6 3,31
7 0,00
8 3,33
Attiny85
1 3,33
2 0,00
3 0,61
4 0,00
5 0,00
6 3,33
7 3,33
8 3,33
Quote from: Rebel_88 on September 21, 2014, 10:25:16 AM
I can't understand what are you saying about the SKIM module...What i have to search?
The SKRM modules are offered by Experimental Noize as a pre-built circuit with an FV-1 and minimal external components. You are not using one. The analogy is that some guy had what sounds like possibly a similar problem, and once he replaced the SKRM module, with the FV-1 and other components, the problem disappeared. It suggests that this problem MIGHT be in the FV-1 chip. However that is just a guess.
Quote from: Digital Larry on September 21, 2014, 10:42:16 AM
Quote from: Rebel_88 on September 21, 2014, 10:25:16 AM
I can't understand what are you saying about the SKIM module...What i have to search?
The SKRM modules are offered by Experimental Noize as a pre-built circuit with an FV-1 and minimal external components. You are not using one. The analogy is that some guy had what sounds like possibly a similar problem, and once he replaced the SKRM module, with the FV-1 and other components, the problem disappeared. It suggests that this problem MIGHT be in the FV-1 chip. However that is just a guess.
Yes, that is exactly what I was saying Larry,
I found the thread and it is on this forum, the problem looks like it was the FV-1 in this SKRM case. Here is the thread if it helps.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=107393.0
@Rebel_88 You of course have built your own PCB and not used the SKRM module but the problem sounds similar to the SKRM thread I talked about. The other tests you have tried means I would suggest/guess that you have a faulty FV-1 chip, but first if you haven't tried as I suggested earlier to re do the solder joints on the FV-1 etc then do it first before replacing the fv-1, I also just noticed a trace on your eagle layout that passes between the pads of the Eeprom which looks pretty close to one of the pins so maybe worth checking it isn't shoring.
Hi, I did everything you told me but the click sound is still here.
It is possible a proboblem with the clock or something similar?
I think the chip doesn't work good i have to order another one and try.
Thankyou for your help and patience, if someone has something else to try i will do :D
Quote from: Rebel_88 on September 21, 2014, 03:19:29 PM
Hi, I did everything you told me but the click sound is still here.
It is possible a proboblem with the clock or something similar?
I think the chip doesn't work good i have to order another one and try.
Thankyou for your help and patience, if someone has something else to try i will do :D
Hi,
Can you post a longer sound clip, as the other one wasn't long enough to determine if the click had a set tempo or not (what happens if you change pot setting while playing etc? ) The clock for the FV-1 really only has the watch xtal and a 47p cap around it.
It would be worth trying another xtal if you have one. The FV-1 datasheet recommends a 15p cap but I know this to cause problems with some xtals so that is why I use a 47p cap in my schematic.
It is looking like a problem with the FV-1 chip in my opinion.
Also, try the bypass program:
RDAX ADCL,1.0000000000
WRAX DACL,0.0000000000
RDAX ADCR,1.0000000000
WRAX DACR,0.0000000000
Hi
Thank you for your work.
Yhis is a longer clip when i play all the effects and at the end im' rotating also pots to let you kwnow what appens.
sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/ClickOnEffects.mp3 (http://sdvpedali.altervista.org/DIY/ClickOnEffects.mp3)
You can hear the click is like a clock that is modulated by the current effect.
Yesterday i have used the effect N°5 of the FV-1 that is celan and should be a test effect and on this i have not this click, but this morning i can't choose it i don't know why.
On the N°3 (Tremolo) this click is so low but in the reverb-delay is maximum.
When I was using my old PC motherboard to supply power to my Spin Dev board over USB, I got all sorts of weird noises that turned out to be coming up the USB power supply. It seemed to depend on the patch that was selected so I assumed that it was the dev board itself. So I'd be real sure that your power supply is really clean.
However in your case it does seem to be synchronized with the LFO sweep, which is unlike what I was hearing.
Try measuring the voltage on pin 5 of the FV-1 whilst playing, it should be at 3.3 Volts if it drops to 0 then the signal is clipping. If you can't select certain patches that could be a bad connection on TO, S0, S1 or S2 pins 13, 16, 17 and 18, this could also cause the clicking if the FV-1 was randomly switching between different effects. Are you sure the problem isn't with your code on your micro? Maybe remove it and manually select patches.
The voltage on pin5 is always 3.3V.
The code of the attiny is tested and works but i have not the circuit in the box so there is noise that affect the chip.
I have found that on the attiny i have strange voltage:
0 ->0v 0v 0v
1->1.66v 1.42v 0v instead of 3.3v 0v 0v
2->1.33v 1.65v .0 instead of 0v 3.3v 0v
3->3.47v 3.47v 0v
4->0v 0v 3.3v
5->0v 0v 3.3v instead of 3.3v 0v 3.3v
6->1.6v 1.68v 3.6v instead of 0v 3.3v 3.3v
7->3.6v 3.6v 3.6v
I will change the code.
I found that the t8l33 is very hot after few seconds of playing, it is ok? I can't put a finger on it for more of 4 seconds.
Having those strange voltages on pin 6 of the attiny could be causing the problem, according to your schematic that is controlling one of the switch inputs of the FV-1 so could be causing it to randomly select different patches.
The regulator will get hot, if the voltage is stable it's probably not a problem.
@Rebel_88, Have you managed to track the issue down yet? You could try removing the Atiny uC you have used and temp set S0-S2 to either gnd or 3.3v. This will let you know at least if the problem is coming from the micro.
The 3.3v reg should get warm but not burn hot to touch.
Hi yes i have tried but the sound is still distorted. I have ordered another FV-1 so i will try again.
It is the first time I'm using a 3.3V regulator but i think it is get too warmy to be safety.
After 3 or 4 seconds i can't put a finger on it. I think a 6v of dropping voltage is large but it is made for it...
I don't know what i could do.
hey Ice-9, do you by any chance still have the single side pcb design file?
Quote from: micahvdm on September 29, 2014, 05:01:19 PM
hey Ice-9, do you by any chance still have the single side pcb design file?
Yeah I have it somewhere, I will dig it out and upload it for you as soon as I find it.
Cool thanks man!
Hi everyone!
I have bought a new Chip and my problem is solved. I think i have broken my previous one and it is why it gave me spikes.
This new chip is from musikding, it is normal i have different set of effects from the datasheet?
For example my pitch shifter is in the second position 001 instead of the fourth 011 and also the pitch-eco is in the seventh position 110 instead of the fifth 101. But everything is working and it is great!
Thank you for your help and support for this project.
I'm creating new effect and i will post them on the http://holycityaudio.com/forum/ (http://holycityaudio.com/forum/)
Now there are a Delay with phaser on feedback ad a starting project of an autowah
Ps:
This is my pedal
(https://scontent-a-mxp.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1014398_654680471311941_9083068613028892500_n.jpg?oh=3dd21f5bb0475df88922354fcab3e668&oe=54F76101)
Quote from: Rebel_88 on October 09, 2014, 04:09:45 AM
Hi everyone!
I have bought a new Chip and my problem is solved. I think i have broken my previous one and it is why it gave me spikes.
This new chip is from musikding, it is normal i have different set of effects from the datasheet?
For example my pitch shifter is in the second position 001 instead of the fourth 011 and also the pitch-eco is in the seventh position 110 instead of the fifth 101. But everything is working and it is great!
Thank you for your help and support for this project.
I'm creating new effect and i will post them on the http://holycityaudio.com/forum/ (http://holycityaudio.com/forum/)
Now there are a Delay with phaser on feedback ad a starting project of an autowah
Ps:
This is my pedal
(https://scontent-a-mxp.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpa1/v/t1.0-9/1014398_654680471311941_9083068613028892500_n.jpg?oh=3dd21f5bb0475df88922354fcab3e668&oe=54F76101)
Looks good Rebel_88, I'm happy you got the problem sorted and as I had suspected it was a damaged FV-1.
As for the internal effects being in a different order to the datasheet, then that will be your code or output pins not from your Atmel not corresponding correctly with the s0-s2 of the FV-1
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 30, 2014, 11:38:45 AM
Quote from: micahvdm on September 29, 2014, 05:01:19 PM
hey Ice-9, do you by any chance still have the single side pcb design file?
Yeah I have it somewhere, I will dig it out and upload it for you as soon as I find it.
+1
Hi I'm trying to get the ShimmerVerb code on the Spinsemi site but i can't find it.
Is there someone could post it on this forum? I love the sound of Ice-9 one.
SINGLE SIDED PCB LINK
Here is the single sided pcb file, it can be opened using Diptrace and printed at the correct size. You can also use diptrace to edit and make any changes to the pcb that you like to suit your own requirements. (I can give a little info on edits if needed).
BEWARE the schematic and component numbers are not the same as the one in this thread, I haven't drawn out a schematic to match this PCB yet but it isn't hard to trace with a pen and paper, the schematic is nearly the same as the double sided pcb though.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqSVlKZlR5QV9KdDA/view?usp=sharing
Diptrace is free to download.
Thank you so much Mick; you've been a great help. What format is it, I mean the file?
Quote from: sajy_ho on October 17, 2014, 04:28:02 PM
Thank you so much Mick; you've been a great help. What format is it, I mean the file?
The file is compressed as a Rar file and the format is Diptrace which is a free program to download,
Hi guys, hope you're OK. I've designed a new PCB for this project. It's the easy version of Slacker's and Ice-9's; Obviously it's not as good as theirs, but good enough for people who can't etch a double-side PCB and don't like SMDs (noobs like me ;D)
The schematic is basically the same, but with slight difference; The Pic chip is omitted and you should use an '8-Pin Rotary Switch" as the encoder:https://www.dropbox.com/s/m753zochhm7sz79/Binary%20Encoder.JPG?dl=0
The encoder can easily be built on a piece of Vero and must be connected to the main board with three wires (S0, S1 and S2). Also I've used two EEPROMs and a spst switch to choose between them.
Sorry for large number of jumpers; Rookie work :-\
Link to the file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ziiec6msclpd4h/MultiVerb.pdf?dl=0
Quote from: sajy_ho on October 20, 2014, 01:40:17 PM
Hi guys, hope you're OK. I've designed a new PCB for this project. It's the easy version of Slacker's and Ice-9's; Obviously it's not as good as theirs, but good enough for people who can't etch a double-side PCB and don't like SMDs (noobs like me ;D)
The schematic is basically the same, but with slight difference; The Pic chip is omitted and you should use an '8-Pin Rotary Switch" as the encoder:https://www.dropbox.com/s/m753zochhm7sz79/Binary%20Encoder.JPG?dl=0
The encoder can easily be built on a piece of Vero and must be connected to the main board with three wires (S0, S1 and S2). Also I've used two EEPROMs and a spst switch to choose between them.
Sorry for large number of jumpers; Rookie work :-\
Link to the file: https://www.dropbox.com/s/1ziiec6msclpd4h/MultiVerb.pdf?dl=0
Nice work sajy_ho,
It's nice to see some more options available. I like the 2 Eeproms, you could use a 16 way (4 bit binary switch also) instead of an eeprom switch to change between Eeproms or with the pic still in place and a slight code mod will give the 16 external fx along with a suitable 1p16t rotary switch.
you have made a nice board which has all the switches pots and jacks wired off board which some people will i'm sure prefer. For anyone wanting to use the onboard footswitch and jacks there is a single sided 1590b layout 4 posts above.
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 20, 2014, 03:27:18 PM
Nice work sajy_ho,
It's nice to see some more options available. I like the 2 Eeproms, you could use a 16 way (4 bit binary switch also) instead of an eeprom switch to change between Eeproms or with the pic still in place and a slight code mod will give the 16 external fx along with a suitable 1p16t rotary switch.
you have made a nice board which has all the switches pots and jacks wired off board which some people will i'm sure prefer. For anyone wanting to use the onboard footswitch and jacks there is a single sided 1590b layout 4 posts above.
Thanks man; I still need lots of lesson from you guys. 4-bit binary encoder, with the first bit choosing which eeprom is on? Why didn't it came to my mind! That's a good idea, thank you again.
Also C1 is 1u polyester, not 1n !
*deleted post*
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 08, 2013, 09:23:49 AM
FV-1 Full project for DIY multiFX pedal by Mick Taylor 2013
First a brief description of what this is about.
I'm sure many of you have heard about or experimented with the Spinsemi FV-1 reverb/multi effects DSP chip just like
I have myself. I have been meaning for a while to bring a complete DIY'able project that anyone can easily build to
the diy pedal forums that I visit. So basically here it is.
I have managed to get this finished with the help of quite a few other members here as well as from other forums
whom I will give mention and thanks to as I go along. The pedal is a simple mono design that has true bypass and has
two different build options. As well as being able to etch a single sided PCB easily at home I have a fabbed double
sided PCB which I can make available.
I believe this makes a great development platform for a simple DSP FV-1 pedal as it has built in ability to
reprogram the software without removing the Eeprom from the circuit.
OK on to a couple of basic sound samples trying to demonstrate a little bit of what to expect, recorded using just a
phone to capture sound and video.
The first vid is of FV-1 pedal loaded with the tape echo firmware called eTap2HW written by Piet which emulates the
sounds of the 'MeazziEchomatic' multi head tape loop echos. The patches have been written to emulate the sounds of
Hank Marvin of the Shadows and his unique sound, but are not restricted to this as many other artist used these tape
echo machines.
The video starts with a clean bypassed sound followed by a couple of bits to try and demo how the echo sounds.The
rest of the vid is pretty much just a single muted strum to capture how the echo's fall with different settings, the
bits where the feedback is turned up is so the tape decay of repeats can be heard.
The second Vid is the same pedal loaded up with a delay and a Shimmer reverb.
Again the vid starts in bypass then has a little bit of the delay effect, the rest is of the Shimmer Reverb as I try
to show what all the knobs do to alter the effect from very little shimmer all the way to a synth like effect.
Schematics of both versions of the circuit, one has the output opamp in a non-inverting gain stage for any gain
recovery that might be needed in certain firmwares, but by leaving out a few components and inserting a jumper link
it can be converted into a straight non inverting buffer as in the second schematic. (right click and save
schematics and to view better res.)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/FV1%20stuff/FV1withgainoutput_zpsa89865f8.png) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/FV1%20stuff/FV1withgainoutput_zpsa89865f8.png.html)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/FV1%20stuff/FV1nogainoutput_zps49898beb.png) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/FV1%20stuff/FV1nogainoutput_zps49898beb.png.html)
Description of schematic
The circuit based around TR1, R1,R2 and D1 form the PSU polarity protection circuit which was described in some of
R.G.s advanced power supply reverse polarity article, different diode type protections can be subbed if preferred.
this is then followed by a standard voltage divider network and filtering for 9V, ground and Vref, and 3.3v voltage
regulator for powering the FV-1 circuit.
Audio to the DSP is input is taken care of by IC1.1 (TL072) working as a straight forward non inverting buffer.
Audio out from the DSP goes through a non inverting gain stage around IC1.2. to convert to a standard non inverting
buffer on the output simply leave out C9,C10,R11,R12 and put a link in place of C10 or R12, which will make the
circuit as in the second schematic.
The digital side of the circuit has at the heart an FV-1 DSP (IC3) with a 24LC32A Eeprom (IC2) which holds the code
for upto 8 programs. These programs are controlled by the PIC12F683 which outputs the 3 bit binary code that the
FV-1 needs to select any of the 8 different programs. The programs are selected using a potentiometer (VR4) on the
input of the PIC chip. It is also possible to use a toggle switch to select a program if sat you wanted 2 or 3
programs only (say you wanted 3 reverbs Room,Hall and plate etc)There are wire points on the pcb that would allow
for this.
PIC12F683 The code for the pic has been written by another forum member called Ian or better known as slacker and
is a great bit of glitch free code. So thanks Ian for allowing me to use this code.
Slacker has also done much FV-1 coding and has been a great source of information regarding the FV-1 both here and
at the Spinsemi website forum, as well as having his FV-1 project on the go.
24LC32A chip is the chip which holds all the external programs that can be loaded into the main DSP and I have
provided a way to re-program the chip with new effects code without having to remove the chip or dismantle the
pedal, and it takes about 10 seconds to read/erase and reprogram the chip with new code.
Next post I will show some build and layout pictures, see you all soon.
Can you please give me the hex file for the PIC12F683 and 24LC32 EEPROM HEX FILE.
Can i use a 24c32 instead of a 24LC32.Thanks..
domdomgin@yahoo.com
edit: oops, posted in wrong thread
Hello people.
I'm new at this forum. I've spent LOTS of hours of the last weeks reading about FV-1 based stompboxes. I've read every page of this particular topic.
I don't know if I miss something, but I have a couple of questions:
-the effect discussed here digitise the entire signal, am I right?
-the bypass is TB, analog buffered or is even digitised?
-Is there a way to make the FV-1 act in an "only wet" way, so I can add an analog mixer circuit or a "split 'n blend" circuit?
I'm looking for reverbs and echoes, specifically, and maybe some flanging/phasing/chorus, so I think the analog mixing/blending must work. I clarify this because I've know a tremolo, for example, wouldn't work properly.
I've downloaded the one-sided PCB layouts (both, the one with pots and switch on board and the other), I know a local distributor who sells the fv-1 chip, so I'm almost ready.
In the other hand, I've got a friend who is also a DIY enthusiast and is an Informatic Engineer, so he can help me to program the chip. Of course every advance on this project will be shared with you in this forum.
Thank you very much.
Quote from: Stroszek on April 24, 2015, 02:36:32 PM
Hello people.
I'm new at this forum. I've spent LOTS of hours of the last weeks reading about FV-1 based stompboxes. I've read every page of this particular topic.
I don't know if I miss something, but I have a couple of questions:
-the effect discussed here digitise the entire signal, am I right?
-the bypass is TB, analog buffered or is even digitised?
-Is there a way to make the FV-1 act in an "only wet" way, so I can add an analog mixer circuit or a "split 'n blend" circuit?
I'm looking for reverbs and echoes, specifically, and maybe some flanging/phasing/chorus, so I think the analog mixing/blending must work. I clarify this because I've know a tremolo, for example, wouldn't work properly.
I've downloaded the one-sided PCB layouts (both, the one with pots and switch on board and the other), I know a local distributor who sells the fv-1 chip, so I'm almost ready.
In the other hand, I've got a friend who is also a DIY enthusiast and is an Informatic Engineer, so he can help me to program the chip. Of course every advance on this project will be shared with you in this forum.
Thank you very much.
Hello Stroszek,
1. Correct the entire effect passes through the FV-1 chip so is all digitized.
2. The TB is true bypass and bypasses everything inside the pedal.
3. Yes you can design the circuit so that the dry signal is totally analogue and the effect (wet) is independent of the dry.
4. Check out the Spinsemi website and forums for lots of programs and code examples.
Hey Mick
Any chance you're selling the pcb's for this project? How much would you be selling them for?
Quote from: micahvdm on May 08, 2015, 09:24:30 AM
Hey Mick
Any chance you're selling the pcb's for this project? How much would you be selling them for?
All the pcb's I had made are all gone now, and as I made quite a few updates to the original circuit I won't be getting any more made for now. I have uploaded the original pcb that goes with this thread to oshpark and they can be ordered from them if you want one. Just search for ice-9 projects, the little switch daughter board and a fv! dev pcb is also up there.
Just want to report that another Ice-9 FV-1 Multi-effect is alive thanks to Mick and Ian! 8)
I followed the standard build (using the very nifty switch/resistor board) except for adding an extra switch to select the internal reverb programs on the FV-1.
A warning: I thought I could program the PIC in place using leads soldered to the appropriate pins, but this never worked. I don't know if it was my incompetence or problems with having the other circuitry on the board. In any case, I ended up removing it and soldering to a DIP adapter for programming off-board. The EEPROM was easy to program in place with the instructions here (used PICkit2).
It's great!
Great to hear you got it working. I've never tried programming the PIC in circuit, could well be that it doesn't work.
Just curious, are there any full on distortions,with cab sim modelled...type srtuff with the fv1?
please excuse my ignorance with this programming lark.. ;D :icon_redface:
Yeah glad you got it all working, If you followed my schematic then no, the pic can't be programed in circuit as I didn't add a pgm header for the pic. The reason was that as the code for the pic would never need updating I had no need to add a header for programming it. Saving space on a tight pcb.
@Deadastro, A few distortions exist but in all honesty the FV-1 strengths lie in modulation and delay rather than modelling distortion. It would be nice to have a go at some nice drive programming though.
Cheers mick...
I've goofed around with many but admittedly not all of the supplied examples of FV-1 code that I can find. Regarding distortion, as Ice-9 said, this is not the chip's strong suit. As far as whether it does "modeling", by which I take you to mean (intentionally or not), solving partial differential equations representing a circuit's behavior in real time, the answer is absolutely not. One of the visitors to my forum has done some work with modeling of that sort and kindly shared some work describing how it works. Were it not for that I would have had no idea how it is done.
I have obtained good results with the Spin supplied "Overdrive" block, which has 3 gain/clipping stages with a fair amount of low pass filtering distributed throughout. Natural clipping in the FV-1 is hard. You just run up to the max numeric value and the waveform flattens out. But at least it doesn't flip polarity or chatter or grid block or anything like that.
There is a "Distortion" algorithm I found, that I haven't spent much time looking at, which sounds bad to me, like it has some splat/buzz on the attack which goes away as the note dies out.
There's a "cube" distortion algorithm that is touted as a soft clipping approach. I've tried that and it's very subtle. So subtle I can rarely tell it's doing anything.
Finally, Spin supplies a "t/x" algorithm which uses piecewise assembly of the waveform depending on the amplitude to give an actual soft clipping characteristic. That one's OK too although I've had a hard time getting lots of gain out of it. Maybe I need to add more gain between the stages.
In addition to delays and modulations mentioned by Ice-9, I've gotten what I consider to be some compelling sounds with filters, mostly second order state variable structure. Those are the only ones that you can easily vary frequency or resonance in real time. It also implements first order filters with an adjustable shelf very efficiently and this gives you a LOT of flexibility doing "tone control'.
cheers larry..i was just curious.
i,ll stick with the old fet lark then.. ;D
Yeah ! Sorry Larry, I just used the word 'Modeling' in a general term for the question about distortion and amp/speaker sim and not in the way of amp modelling DSP. I should have been clearer, I blame that on a few beers and lazy typing.
While it won't do modelling as such I could see it coping quite well using filters to simulate a cab/speaker sim. It is not something I have tried though.
In case some of you might be interested, here's a "softclipping overdrive" algorithm (with Spin code provided) that Jeroen Korterik posted a while back. Sound samples included. Sounds pretty good to me! :icon_biggrin:
http://www.broekrock.nl/hosenlander/dsp_overdrive/index.php
Quote from: grenert on May 14, 2015, 11:13:33 AM
In case some of you might be interested, here's a "softclipping overdrive" algorithm (with Spin code provided) that Jeroen Korterik posted a while back. Sound samples included. Sounds pretty good to me! :icon_biggrin:
http://www.broekrock.nl/hosenlander/dsp_overdrive/index.php
That does sound pretty impressive, I listened to the sound file but have not had time to look at the code, I will definitely give it a try
I spent about 3 hours reading this thread, the Spinsemi forums, SpinCad designer stuff and i still doesn't get this:
Let's say i copy pasted 8 different code snippets for 8 different effects from different sources into a single txt file. Or let's say i made 8 different algorithms in SpinCad designer.
What kind of code should i write around them to make them selectable and recognizable by the FV-1 chip?
So basically i need the "skeleton" code without the effect algorithms, the code which will get uploaded to the EEPROM chip.
To make the file that you then upload to the EEPROM you take your code snippets or the output from SpinCad and use the SpinASM software, available here http://www.spinsemi.com/products.html (http://www.spinsemi.com/products.html) to assemble them into a hex file that can then be written to the EEPROM.
Have a read of this http://www.spinsemi.com/Products/datasheets/spn1001-dev/SPINAsmUserManual.pdf (http://www.spinsemi.com/Products/datasheets/spn1001-dev/SPINAsmUserManual.pdf) pages 17 to 20 explain how you take up to eight programs and make them into a hex file, ignore all the stuff that talks about the dev board you don't need that.
Quote from: slacker on May 23, 2015, 07:05:45 AM
To make the file that you then upload to the EEPROM you take your code snippets or the output from SpinCad and use the SpinASM software, available here http://www.spinsemi.com/products.html (http://www.spinsemi.com/products.html) to assemble them into a hex file that can then be written to the EEPROM.
Have a read of this http://www.spinsemi.com/Products/datasheets/spn1001-dev/SPINAsmUserManual.pdf (http://www.spinsemi.com/Products/datasheets/spn1001-dev/SPINAsmUserManual.pdf) pages 17 to 20 explain how you take up to eight programs and make them into a hex file, ignore all the stuff that talks about the dev board you don't need that.
Thanks!
Quote from: grenert on May 14, 2015, 11:13:33 AM
In case some of you might be interested, here's a "softclipping overdrive" algorithm (with Spin code provided) that Jeroen Korterik posted a while back. Sound samples included. Sounds pretty good to me! :icon_biggrin:
http://www.broekrock.nl/hosenlander/dsp_overdrive/index.php
cool, sounds good....i await the high gain version :icon_twisted:
I'm finally making a start on building this - does anybody have a copy of the .hex for the PIC handy? I had a look through the forum but couldn't find it anywhere
Cheers,
Caillan
Quote from: caillan on June 25, 2015, 12:49:07 AM
I'm finally making a start on building this - does anybody have a copy of the .hex for the PIC handy? I had a look through the forum but couldn't find it anywhere
Cheers,
Caillan
It is on page 8, 6th post down in this same thread, two versions are available one for the 12f615 and one for the 12f683.
These are the ASM files and you will have to compile them to hex. The actual hex files are in the thread as well as a download link but I can't see what page of the thread they are on at the moment. :icon_redface:
Boss just released a new digital reverb pedal, the RV-6. It happens to have 8 programs on it. Coincidence? Anyone know if it is based on the FV-1?
boss' technology is far superior to the fv-1. the spin is great for the little guys but the big guys like boss, digitech, and ehx (ignoring the holy stain which is a weird move on their part) would be limited by the fv-1
Hi folks,
Is/was there a pcb one could buy from someone for this project? In addition, I'm looking at adapting the circuit for +/-15v and modular synth levels (10vpp). But I am no expert. Leaving aside IC2,3 & 4 for the moment, it seems most of the rest circuit is buffering, which should be easily modifiable. But what's TR1 (IRFD9024) doing?
TR1 function is mentioned in first post.
So it is. Thankyou.
Does anyone know if it would be viable to connect a potentiometer to the second audio input? Would be great with an extra parameter
There's a discussion on FV-1 Forum that tell is not possible. It's possible to use one input for an external LFO, I've done it to have modulation on a Delay an' it's works.
However you have to put 3v3 pp lFO wave on input and do a scale on the program to have it work properly.
Hi all,
There has just appeared a 4-bit absolute digital encoder (16-positions) on the surplus, easy-to-get-market which could do the version discussed a few pages back using two eeproms for 16 programs. Check out the Electronic Goldmine website. Pretty cheap, too!
Or possibly using an Arduino to provide many more options using a conventional gray-code encoder which can go round and round to provide both storage of algorithm selection and use PWM outputs to provide analog voltage inputs to the FV-1 to store many more parameters, instead of having to change a rotary switch AND adjust 3 potentiometers every time you want a different sound. The Arduino nano is so friggin' cheap now ( like $3.00 American) and programming it to output analog voltages is pretty straight-forward. And it is tiny (like 0.7" x 1.4"), but with pins on the conventional through-hole .1" centers, so mounting it on a PCB would be a piece of cake!
This project needs an update (without being really big physically) that can do all the really cool stuff Keith Barr designed the FV-1 for, and the DIY community can pull it off.
mr coffee
BTW - fancy readout interfaces are relatively simple to implement using the Arduino code-base for those who feel the need. Storing 16 tweaked echo programs seems like all I would need, but - whatever.
Quote from: MR COFFEE on September 10, 2015, 12:01:11 AM
Hi all,
There has just appeared a 4-bit absolute digital encoder (16-positions) on the surplus, easy-to-get-market which could do the version discussed a few pages back using two eeproms for 16 programs. Check out the Electronic Goldmine website. Pretty cheap, too!
Or possibly using an Arduino to provide many more options using a conventional gray-code encoder which can go round and round to provide both storage of algorithm selection and use PWM outputs to provide analog voltage inputs to the FV-1 to store many more parameters, instead of having to change a rotary switch AND adjust 3 potentiometers every time you want a different sound. The Arduino nano is so friggin' cheap now ( like $3.00 American) and programming it to output analog voltages is pretty straight-forward. And it is tiny (like 0.7" x 1.4"), but with pins on the conventional through-hole .1" centers, so mounting it on a PCB would be a piece of cake!
This project needs an update (without being really big physically) that can do all the really cool stuff Keith Barr designed the FV-1 for, and the DIY community can pull it off.
mr coffee
BTW - fancy readout interfaces are relatively simple to implement using the Arduino code-base for those who feel the need. Storing 16 tweaked echo programs seems like all I would need, but - whatever.
Do you mean something along these lines MR COFFEE
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/IMG_2641_zpsmy5i5g2o.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/IMG_2641_zpsmy5i5g2o.jpg.html)
This is still work in progress and is a joint effort from myself, Piet, Philip and Steve. It will be available as a kit or a project when we have decided on it's final design.
Specs include - midi in, USB, LCD display, 2 Eeproms for 16 programs. Storage for 128 patches the first 22 are preset with the rest being user editable. librarian software for uploading new eeprom programs with names and controls. much more.
It's called 'Blue Nebula' and has initially been designed as a full automated Echotapper (eTaphw) and can also be used for uploading your own FV-1 code to the eeprom.
Cheers for the link for a 4 bit encoder I will look that up.
Hi Ice-9 and team,
Yeah, sumpthin' like that!! COOL!!!
Sounds like the 2-bit grey-code (aka quadrature) encoder with push-button would be more the ticket with a unit selecting between 122 patches! And they are much more readily available - cheap - on the surplus market where I get most of my stuff :icon_rolleyes:
The interface I was dreaming up was simpler in some ways, more of a stompbox kinda thing.
I was thinking the 16-position absolute encoder for a unit with 16 patches total - but connecting the encoder to an Arduino nano so it can select a program to upload to the FV-1 (in an emulated "custom eeprom slot" using I2S emulation) and pulse-width modulation to handle the "pot settings", aka stored control voltage inputs for each patch.
I figure 16 patches would be all I'd really want from an FV-1 box, leave out the LCD readout and naming patches and all, but put an extra momentary foot switch to switch back and forth between the selected patch and the patch above it. Anbody that wants more programmability than that is probably going to be using a MIDI patch change footswitch setup in my estimation. I figure it would be a lot less time spent in programming limbo trying to get it to actually work. Back it up over USB port to a file, since that's built in to the Arduino. Use a file structure that average IQ guys can cut and paste in their 16 fav presets in the order they want and download. Not too fancy, not to pricey.
Building in a computer-based patch librarian and FV-1 development board equivalent would be really cool, but that kind of thing sounds like it would take a lot to do - but I'm an analog guy, and not much of a software jock, so that may be way off base.
You guys got a release date in mind for the Blue Nebula?
Quote from: MR COFFEE on September 11, 2015, 12:11:59 PM
Hi Ice-9 and team,
Yeah, sumpthin' like that!! COOL!!!
Sounds like the 2-bit grey-code (aka quadrature) encoder with push-button would be more the ticket with a unit selecting between 122 patches! And they are much more readily available - cheap - on the surplus market where I get most of my stuff :icon_rolleyes:
The interface I was dreaming up was simpler in some ways, more of a stompbox kinda thing.
I was thinking the 16-position absolute encoder for a unit with 16 patches total - but connecting the encoder to an Arduino nano so it can select a program to upload to the FV-1 (in an emulated "custom eeprom slot" using I2S emulation) and pulse-width modulation to handle the "pot settings", aka stored control voltage inputs for each patch.
I figure 16 patches would be all I'd really want from an FV-1 box, leave out the LCD readout and naming patches and all, but put an extra momentary foot switch to switch back and forth between the selected patch and the patch above it. Anbody that wants more programmability than that is probably going to be using a MIDI patch change footswitch setup in my estimation. I figure it would be a lot less time spent in programming limbo trying to get it to actually work. Back it up over USB port to a file, since that's built in to the Arduino. Use a file structure that average IQ guys can cut and paste in their 16 fav presets in the order they want and download. Not too fancy, not to pricey.
Building in a computer-based patch librarian and FV-1 development board equivalent would be really cool, but that kind of thing sounds like it would take a lot to do - but I'm an analog guy, and not much of a software jock, so that may be way off base.
You guys got a release date in mind for the Blue Nebula?
Here are a couple of pics of fully built and working prototypes, same gear just in different enclosures.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/IMG_2564_zps6syjvchb.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/IMG_2564_zps6syjvchb.jpg.html)
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/11875124_617300081706428_854352262934840227_o_zpsgfib6nln.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/11875124_617300081706428_854352262934840227_o_zpsgfib6nln.jpg.html)
That looks amazing Mick, look forward to hearing more about it.
This is a cool project but I'm afraid the final price will exceed the one of a commercially available unit with a handful of DSPs inside. Years ago when I developed "The Sandwich" (topic available in this forum) I was thinking of building a stand alone unit as well. Although my project had less functionality then yours the numbers just didn't add up. I wish you more luck with that one.
You're probably right about the price but what commercial units can you program with your own effects? There's none that I know of.
Quote from: slacker on September 15, 2015, 03:08:45 PM
You're probably right about the price but what commercial units can you program with your own effects? There's none that I know of.
It will be very affordable to built DIY, and yes, as you say it really can be a good dev platform. Also no need for an external programmer as it connects directly to USB on a computer.
I will keep the forum up to date on progress as it happens, it is of course a different beast than the FV-1 project here, so it should get a new thread for DIY if everyone involved in the design is in agreement.
QuoteIt will be very affordable to built DIY
In the ballpark of (what price) ?
With an approximate release date (of when)?
QuoteYou're probably right about the price but what commercial units can you program with your own effects? There's none that I know of.
Then you haven't noticed the Rocktron offerings for the past couple decades.
You haven't had the chance to play around with the (oldie-but-goodie) Intellifex? Chameleon? Replifex? And those units all did long delays for reverb and echo that weren't limited to <13 bits the way the FV-1 is.
The Rocktron units were\are VERY user programmable, sound amazing, and were\are controllable over midi. That's what all the humongous-foot-switchable-fx-rack guys do.
Rocktron units provide programmable names for the "patches", as they refer to them in Rocktron-speak. They have LCD readouts. This projected project gets in that realm for what I assume will be a lower cost. Cheers, guys!
But does anyone else find the idea of a simpler version programmable FV-1 box that you can program with the effects YOU want appealing?
All without turning it into a Rocktron act-alike (with slightly lower fidelity)?
IMHO, the greatest thing about the FV-1 is how much it can do with just a $10 part. THAT is amazing!
Guys, you have been doing GREAT work here...but consider how much a less complicated and cheaper version - same great sound pallate. and still tweakable - might appeal to the DIY crowd. Even the Rocktron guys I know only get lost for 20-30 hours in programming land before they move on to other things and use a handful of patches that suit their needs. Think about how often you turn the knobs on stuff on your pedal board. It's not that often for most of the guitar players I know. Robin Trower used to "saw off the shafts on the pots on his pedal board and superglue them in place so they didn't get their settings messed up". I've seen a lot of that mindset over the years.
The use-yur-'puter editor librarian sounds great if you have got someone that has the chops and inclination to do such a thing. But a down-scale, tweak-in-a-simple-and-cheap-but-clunky-way, that is available this year, that fits in a small stompbox with a 16-position rotary patch switch - might be quite appealing to a wide audience of DIYers. FWIW.
Not trying to throw water on what you are accomplishing here. Just suggesting a companion project that is less elaborate, but a lot of "bang-for-the-buck".
Thanks and lots of respect for you guys.
mr coffee
that looks the dogs nuts....very cool. 8)
Wow, really excited about this project! I had so many different FV-1 configurations in mind that it was looking like my floor would be covered with pedals. I would love to have a deluxe pedal that can handle all of them.
Keep up the great work!
Quote from: MR COFFEE on September 18, 2015, 02:20:16 AM
QuoteYou're probably right about the price but what commercial units can you program with your own effects? There's none that I know of.
Then you haven't noticed the Rocktron offerings for the past couple decades.
You haven't had the chance to play around with the (oldie-but-goodie) Intellifex? Chameleon? Replifex? And those units all did long delays for reverb and echo that weren't limited to <13 bits the way the FV-1 is.
The Rocktron units were\are VERY user programmable,
I think we're talking about two different things I meant writing your own effects and loading them to a pedal. Yes if you're only talking about traditional effects then there may be no advantage writing your own as opposed to tweaking those in a good programmable multi effects unit but then you're limited to what ever effects the unit has, you can't create your own from scratch.
QuoteI think we're talking about two different things I meant writing your own effects and loading them to a pedal. Yes if you're only talking about traditional effects then there may be no advantage writing your own as opposed to tweaking those in a good programmable multi effects unit but then you're limited to what ever effects the unit has, you can't create your own from scratch.
Slacker,
You are right - I missed your point, which is well taken.
NOW I get your point, and I agree. No commercial effect I know of provides an opportunity for those of us who are hobbyists to develop algorithms for an effect device we can develop on with the availability of incredible tools like Digital Larry's SpinCAD Designer.
mr coffee
Did you ever hear back from anyone. I am also interested in finding someone that might help me by doing some Spincad or Spin programming.
Initially, I had hoped my post would have prompted someone here to develop an updated version using one of the newer, cheaper, and much more compact 3.3v. Arduino modules to replace the original version using the old Arduino Uno, coupled with a stacked up 5 v. to 3.3v. interface card.
I was blown away when the posted PCB picture made it look like it had actually already BEEN done, but just hadn't been released to the diy community yet.
I heard back from one of the team members about 6 months ago that the team was hung in the "another tweak or two and it's ready to go" mode, which I presume is where it continues to be.
I would hazard a guess that the team is in "hung committee" mode, with everybody deferring to everybody else. I suspect committee members have already moved on to focusing on other projects because it has become too much personalities and friendships to get to the "OK, let's just release the latest incarnation of Piet's original idea and we can update it later if new ideas gel".
Of course, there may be other reasons the committee has chosen not to release it to the diy community, and hey, it's their baby, and if they want to keep it under covers, it's their right.
This whole thread has been inspiring, even if it ends with a whimper.
Quote from: MR COFFEE on March 15, 2016, 12:01:59 AM
Initially, I had hoped my post would have prompted someone here to develop an updated version using one of the newer, cheaper, and much more compact 3.3v. Arduino modules to replace the original version using the old Arduino Uno, coupled with a stacked up 5 v. to 3.3v. interface card.
I was blown away when the posted PCB picture made it look like it had actually already BEEN done, but just hadn't been released to the diy community yet.
I heard back from one of the team members about 6 months ago that the team was hung in the "another tweak or two and it's ready to go" mode, which I presume is where it continues to be.
I would hazard a guess that the team is in "hung committee" mode, with everybody deferring to everybody else. I suspect committee members have already moved on to focusing on other projects because it has become too much personalities and friendships to get to the "OK, let's just release the latest incarnation of Piet's original idea and we can update it later if new ideas gel".
Of course, there may be other reasons the committee has chosen not to release it to the diy community, and hey, it's their baby, and if they want to keep it under covers, it's their right.
This whole thread has been inspiring, even if it ends with a whimper.
Well Mr. Coffee, great timing really.
Everyone involved with this have been working hard to get the project finalised and although it was almost complete the last time we spoke, it is those little details that really eat into the time it takes to make something a little bit special, it is all working and ready and it's just dotting the I's and crossing the T's now.
Many man hours have been spent over the past few weeks putting together build plans and working on different effects sets by everyone involved.
A picture of one of the many fully working pre built pedals, the Diy one will be PCB's and all the firmwares, then the rest will be up to the builder.
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/Blue%20Nebula/IMG_3108_zpsmzj7awtk.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/Blue%20Nebula/IMG_3108_zpsmzj7awtk.jpg.html)
Did you have any issue designing the PCB/circuit with the FV-1? I have been playing with this chip for awhile and cannot build a low noise design for the life of me! I have different levels of output noise.
I am almost at the point of wanting to build this project, just to see if the issue is my design, the chips (They are legit, I bought them direct), or if I have too much EMI in the lab. ;D
Quote from: iampoor on March 16, 2016, 03:21:16 AM
Did you have any issue designing the PCB/circuit with the FV-1? I have been playing with this chip for awhile and cannot build a low noise design for the life of me! I have different levels of output noise.
I am almost at the point of wanting to build this project, just to see if the issue is my design, the chips (They are legit, I bought them direct), or if I have too much EMI in the lab. ;D
What noise problems are you experiencing? if you are using basic op amp buffers for input and output without any filtering then you may suffer quite a bit of hiss. If it is hiss you are suffering have a look at the way Pre/De emphasis is implemented in BBD designs, this might help.
Interested in specs, i.e.
What do "Gain" and "Pre" do? Is there some sort of analog clipper before the input? which is a cool idea.
How many user patches stored?
How does one load new patches?
Can I cross-correlate the MIDI continuous controller with the phase of the moon and electoral demographics in the US to get improved pre-delay dispersion?
I use my pedals with synths, which do not need such high input impedances. They cause hum problems for me. When I reduce input resistors down to 20-50k, it really helps a lot.
Mick, are the finished pedals available for sale yet?
Quote from: Digital Larry on March 16, 2016, 11:15:09 AM
Interested in specs, i.e.
What do "Gain" and "Pre" do? Is there some sort of analog clipper before the input? which is a cool idea.
How many user patches stored?
How does one load new patches?
Can I cross-correlate the MIDI continuous controller with the phase of the moon and electoral demographics in the US to get improved pre-delay dispersion?
@ Gary The Gain and Pre are part of the triode emulation which is the work of Steve Mitchell and correctly models the harmonic element of the valves in the Meazzi tape machine. This can be pushed but is NOT a dist/overdrive.
127 user patches plus 22 preset song patches.
New patches/effects firmware can be loaded by connecting the pedal to a computer via a USB lead and using the 'Librarian' software. The automation and librarian software is all the work of Philip Hawthorne. It is also possible to load effects firmware via Pickit2 or similar.
And to your last question - Yes, but you may have to be prepared for the eventuality that it may result in the creation of a super massive black hole.
@grenert, shouldn't be too long before it is available in DIY and prebuilt options. I will keep the forum up to date on progress. It should be able to work well with synths as well.
Quote from: Ice-9 on March 18, 2016, 07:33:14 PM
Quote from: Digital Larry on March 16, 2016, 11:15:09 AM
Can I cross-correlate the MIDI continuous controller with the phase of the moon and electoral demographics in the US to get improved pre-delay dispersion?
And to your last question - Yes, but you may have to be prepared for the eventuality that it may result in the creation of a super massive black hole.
Nice! I better sell tickets.
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 10, 2015, 10:13:49 AM
Do you mean something along these lines MR COFFEE
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k243/lenny1dog/IMG_2641_zpsmy5i5g2o.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/lenny1dog/media/IMG_2641_zpsmy5i5g2o.jpg.html)
This is still work in progress
I may need to get something like that board in some future... What's the status on this awesome project?
@Ice-9
Is there by any chance a schematic is available for the blue nebula?
In particular the part where the arduino connects to the eprom?
Thanks
The Arduino is connected to all the EEproms and the FV-1 using i2c, have a look for level shifters if you need to change levels between 3.3v and 5v.
looks uber cool mick... 8)
did i miss a demo of this?...
Hey Mick, Piet, and the rest of the team,
Another two months has passed on this project that you described as
Quoteit is all working and ready and it's just dotting the I's and crossing the T's now. Many man hours have been spent over the past few weeks putting together build plans and working on different effects sets by everyone involved.
A picture of one of the many fully working pre built pedals, the Diy one will be PCB's and all the firmwares, then the rest will be up to the builder.
I think you have made a really cool implementation, and I am eagerly waiting to buy the pcb and firmware diy package you all keep promising.
However, the passage of time suggests it has become, like many great things, hung in committee. Various effects sets people are tweaking need not hold up the release of the design, which you indicated was ready to go two months ago. A build guide shouldn't take more than two months to put together. If the committee's intent is to release it to the diy community, please make a realistic appraisal of the situation and go ahead and make it happen one way or another.
Here's an idea - Would you guys consider handing off the pcb gerbers and firmwares to somebody else who might be interested in making it available for sale to the diy community this Spring? I understand that some people like designing and tweaking, but just don't care for the "commerce" part of making a diy release. I'm pretty much like that myself, but we all know there are folks who actually like providing that service and have dedicated a lot of energy to making things like this happen (people like Madbean and others). I'm sure they could include a cut for the team's efforts in the pricing.
I don't want to come across like a nag about this, but promises, promises, promises... C'mon, guys. Are you or aren't you?
I think there are lots of advanced diy"ers here that would jump at the chance to buy one of these pcb and firmware kits. Make it happen.
Regards,
mr coffee
Quote from: MR COFFEE on May 18, 2016, 11:49:28 AM
Hey Mick, Piet, and the rest of the team,
Another two months has passed on this project that you described as
Quoteit is all working and ready and it's just dotting the I's and crossing the T's now. Many man hours have been spent over the past few weeks putting together build plans and working on different effects sets by everyone involved.
A picture of one of the many fully working pre built pedals, the Diy one will be PCB's and all the firmwares, then the rest will be up to the builder.
I think you have made a really cool implementation, and I am eagerly waiting to buy the pcb and firmware diy package you all keep promising.
However, the passage of time suggests it has become, like many great things, hung in committee. Various effects sets people are tweaking need not hold up the release of the design, which you indicated was ready to go two months ago. A build guide shouldn't take more than two months to put together. If the committee's intent is to release it to the diy community, please make a realistic appraisal of the situation and go ahead and make it happen one way or another.
Here's an idea - Would you guys consider handing off the pcb gerbers and firmwares to somebody else who might be interested in making it available for sale to the diy community this Spring? I understand that some people like designing and tweaking, but just don't care for the "commerce" part of making a diy release. I'm pretty much like that myself, but we all know there are folks who actually like providing that service and have dedicated a lot of energy to making things like this happen (people like Madbean and others). I'm sure they could include a cut for the team's efforts in the pricing.
I don't want to come across like a nag about this, but promises, promises, promises... C'mon, guys. Are you or aren't you?
I think there are lots of advanced diy"ers here that would jump at the chance to buy one of these pcb and firmware kits. Make it happen.
Regards,
mr coffee
you can always joint the mailing list for progress. You can also read the 3 part development story there which also has info on build manuals, firmware updates etc. which have been available for quite some time now
https://echotapper.wordpress.com/
The pre built pedal model is due for release sometime next week as well but I don't mention that here as this is a diy forum.
can someone please give me the hex file for the pic12f683.Thanks..domdomgin@yahoo.com
Quote from: domdomgin on May 30, 2016, 01:10:56 PM
can someone please give me the hex file for the pic12f683.Thanks..domdomgin@yahoo.com
Here is the ASM code for the 12f683 from Slacker, you need to compile this to get the hex.
;3 bit glitchless A2D converter
;Version 1 05/09/2011
; __________
; VDD ---| |--- VSS
; ---| 12F683 |--- Bit 0
; CV In ---| |--- Bit 1
; ---|________|--- Bit 2
list P=PIC12F683
#include "P12F683.INC"
__config (_INTRC_OSC_NOCLKOUT & _WDT_OFF & _PWRTE_OFF & _MCLRE_OFF & _CP_OFF & _IESO_OFF & _FCMEN_OFF & _BOD_OFF)
cblock 0x20
new
current
count
endc
org 0
Start:
banksel GPIO
clrf GPIO ;clear GPIO
movlw 07h
movwf CMCON0 ;turn off comparators
banksel TRISIO
movlw b'00010000' ;set pin3 as input rest as output
movwf TRISIO
banksel ANSEL
movlw b'00011000' ;set pin3 as analogue input (AN3)
movwf ANSEL
banksel ADCON0
movlw b'00001101' ;turn on ADC on AN3 left justified
movwf ADCON0
Mainloop:
nop ;wait for a bit
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
nop
banksel ADCON0
bsf ADCON0,GO ;Do ADC
btfsc ADCON0,GO
goto $-1
banksel ADRESH
movf ADRESH,w
movwf new ;write upper 8 bits to new register
swapf new,f ;swap upper and lower bits
rrf new,w ;move 1 step to the right bits 5,6,7 now in positions 0,1,2
andlw b'00000111' ;clear 5 upper bits
movwf new ;write back to new register
subwf current,w ;subtract from current value
skpz ;skip next line if zero ie:- new = current
goto counter ;if new <> current goto counter
movlw b'11111111' ;reset count to 255
movwf count
goto Mainloop ;back to the start
counter:
decfsz count,f ;deduct 1 from count, if count = 0 skip the next line
goto Mainloop ;if count > 0 go back to the start
movf new,w ;if count = 0 move value of new to current
movwf current
banksel GPIO
movwf GPIO ;and send to GPIO
goto Mainloop ;back to the start
end
Thank you.Also after compiling its showing only 1kb size of the hex file.Is it correct.Please let me know.
nice work
what is the button cluster (4 arrows and OK) called ? - I have tried to find one with no luck, don't know the correct name..
Quote from: Rixen on May 31, 2016, 08:11:48 AM
nice work
what is the button cluster (4 arrows and OK) called ? - I have tried to find one with no luck, don't know the correct name..
These took a long time to find when we were working on the controls for the pedal but I eventually found two suppliers, one was Farnell and the other is RS components
http://uk.farnell.com/mec/navikitth09wl/switch-kit-spno-black/dp/1390523
Quote from: domdomgin on May 30, 2016, 11:34:22 PM
Thank you.Also after compiling its showing only 1kb size of the hex file.Is it correct.Please let me know.
Yes 1k hex file size is correct.
Thanks, Navigation Switch :)
Hello, just discovered this thread and have a couple of questions for Ice-9
Are the boards for FV-1 still available at OSHpark? I searched for them but there appears to be only the
SKRM riser.
And, re the Nebula, will you be making the patches from the FV-1 available for the Nebula, and from Gold Mine too?
What a great resource this is - thank you for a very enjoyable few hours reading it through - and several side threads too.
As someone who has played guitar for over 50 years and never ever gigged with a pedal board (only ever a single pedal or a single multi-fx unit upto a POD HD) I am now enjoying building some pedals for inspiration and wondering if I should go with board as they are so much fun!
I DO like the way multi-fx allow you to switch patches with no fiddling with knobs, though. Any chance you can retro fit a midi input for the Baby Blue and Gold Mine? ;)
Best regards
Cliff
Hi Cliff, the FV-1 pcb is still showing in my OSHpark list so I am not sure why you can't find it. To be honest it could do with a few updates/improvements which I will see if I can do and re upload the project board to OSH park.
At the moment I don't have much free time after the release of the Blue Nebula pedal I am working 7 days a week to just try and get Nebula pedals built.
The Baby Blue and the goldmine are pretty much crammed inside of the small box so no way to add midi control to these.
I will try and update the pcb for the fv-1 project and place all the files here, but it may take a week or two.
Mick
Thanks for speedy reply - I guessed you'd be busy being midwife to a new brood :)
I'll check OSHpark again.
Cliff
OK found them now - I was searching on Ice-9, but they all show up when I search FV-1
Cheers
Cliff
Great, I'm glad you found them, I still may do a MK2 version of the project with some updates and possibly add another potentiometer so that it will have 3 FV-1 controls and a separate level pot with the dry signal being totally analogue.
It may be best if I start a new thread for a MK2 as it is quite difficult to find everything in this thread as it has grown quite large now.
In that case I'll look out for the new thread on Mk2 version. In the mean time I need to get some more practice in SMD soldering and find out more on FV-1 programming. I've done a couple of ATtiny and Arduino projects and some C programming and I'm looking forward to this.
Cheers
Cliff
Hi Mick...
A couple of questions:
-Do you have plans to release an Mk2 in the near future?
-Do you still have any PCB laying around with SMD ICs already in?...
I would like to start playing with the FV-1 in a stompbox form, but SMD is kind of freightening to me....
Another alternative I'm considering is to get an EHX holy stain and modify it... but I would prefer something smaller.
Mat
Quote from: potul on July 05, 2016, 02:32:46 PM
Hi Mick...
A couple of questions:
-Do you have plans to release an Mk2 in the near future?
-Do you still have any PCB laying around with SMD ICs already in?...
I would like to start playing with the FV-1 in a stompbox form, but SMD is kind of freightening to me....
Another alternative I'm considering is to get an EHX holy stain and modify it... but I would prefer something smaller.
Mat
Hi Mat,
1. near future yes,
2. None of the original boards left i'm afraid.
QUESTION - I will start a MK2 board this week, but how about we throw this open to suggestions on what to add to the specs. board layout, enclosure size, off/on board hardware etc. Although open to any suggestions I won't be adding micro/lcd automation to this one.
Mick
Thanks Mick for the answer...
Then I will sit and wait for Mk2(and participate as much as possible in the thread)
Mat
to do if I want to use a rotary switch 4 position ?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-1-Pole-4-Position-PANEL-Wiring-ROTARY-SWITCH-1P4T-/131850954262?nav=SEARCH
Quote from: washingtomsb on September 05, 2016, 07:12:52 PM
to do if I want to use a rotary switch 4 position ?
http://m.ebay.com/itm/1pcs-1-Pole-4-Position-PANEL-Wiring-ROTARY-SWITCH-1P4T-/131850954262?nav=SEARCH
Yes you can use a 1p4t switch for 4 effects or for 8 effects use a 1p8t switch. you need to make a resistor ladder between each switch position and also one resistor at each end to ground and 3.3v. Then use the common to connect to the PIC input.
Thanks Ice-9
Ice-9
there is the possibility to buy only the etap2hw files so I can record my pedal?
Hello guys, I really want to start with digital stuff, but I seem to be an idiot who can not find FV-1 anywhere :D
Can you point me to some sources, like farnell and so on?
Or can you give me full name of this chip?
Thnx
There's a list of distributors here http://www.spinsemi.com/distributors.html (http://www.spinsemi.com/distributors.html)
http://www.banzaimusic.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1
Quote from: JebemMajke on December 10, 2016, 09:20:04 AM
Hello guys, I really want to start with digital stuff, but I seem to be an idiot who can not find FV-1 anywhere :D
Can you point me to some sources, like farnell and so on?
Or can you give me full name of this chip?
Thnx
Hi JebemMajke, The only official UK distributor is ProfusionPLC
Just received a set of 3 pcbs from OSH park, and looking forward to building them over the next week or three...
This is my first experience with SMDs and I have a lot to learn :)
I unintentionally ordered SM sized memory soic, rather than SN and they don't fit. Luckily they are cheap, Farnell has oodles of them and hopefully I'll get some before xmas.
Seeing as I can build three I might put two in a box in series.
What do you guys use for flux? I have a pen type liquid flux dispenser which is OK. But I've seen mainly gel flux being used you tube instructional videos.
regards
Cliff
Cliff, If your using a normal hand soldering iron for the SMD chips then the pen flux is great. Look forward to seeing your build.
Note the PIC chip needs to be programmed before soldering in place while the eeprom can be programmed/updated on the pcb.
Great. I've already programmed the PICs, and I'm waiting for the replacement memory chips to arrive then I'm ready to get soldering.
There seems to be a short between pins 16 and 17 of the FV-1 on the pcbs. I've buzzed it out and looked with a magnifying glass and it looks like a bridge between the tracks. Is this a known condition? - I don't remember reading about it here, but it was a few months since I read the full thread. I guess I need to lift a pin on FV-1 and one on the PIC.
Cheers
Cliff
Pins 16 and 17 shouldn't have a short, they are S0, S1 , can you take a close up picture of the pcb to show these pins. You may need to use a blade to make sure the connection is cut. I have never had this problem with the PCB fabs I use.
Like I mentioned post a picture and I will check for a solution on the PCB.
Sorry, not worked out how to post images. Here's a dropbox link
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ncsdbfz5ypho9ls/AADzxC4O0mJtATq6HyrdUw4-a?dl=0
There's a semicircular area of "land" between pins 16,17 of FV-1 and pins 6,7 of the PIC. Easy to see with magnifying glass, not so easy to photograph.
Cheers
Cliff
That should not be there, it looks like it must be a manufacturing fault/error. At least it is an easy fix and can be cut with a Stanley knife (box cutter if your American). I will try and check the file on OSH Park. I never used them to make the PCB's but the same Gerber files were sent to another PCB maker and I never had this error in my boards.
do you have the link to the OSHPark project so I can check ?
Here's the OSHpark link
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/ay7fFM4d
Stanley knife will do for me :)
Cheers
Cliff
Quote from: cliffsp8 on December 20, 2016, 02:49:29 PM
Here's the OSHpark link
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/ay7fFM4d
Stanley knife will do for me :)
Cheers
Cliff
The Files in the link look good (without the bridge). I would drop OSHPark an email hey should send out some new pcb's that are correct. Failing that the Stanley knife cut will be good to go.
Thanks for checking, I will contact OSHpark and request good replacements.
Cheers!
PS Stanley has done the trick :)
OSH Park are fast tracking a new set of boards for me, so I should get them in a couple of weeks.
In the meantime I've given the boards I have a thorough checking with a jeweller's glass and confident enough that there are no other spurious areas. So I'm going ahead with one of these, after all I need something to do over the holidays when not eating, drinking and making merry :)
Best wishes...
Cliff
Second board completely built and working :)
I had a struggle get the eeprom to programme but it did it after about 5 attempts. I think it was a contact problem between the programming pins and the pads. Next job is to get it installed in a box and do some coding... ... to while away the cold dark nights.
Many thanks Mick for this great project. I'll post some pics when it's done.
Cliff
Some build pictures:
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ncsdbfz5ypho9ls/AADzxC4O0mJtATq6HyrdUw4-a?dl=0
Sorry about dropbox link, someday I'll figure out how to add pics into thread :)
I added a 3 pin header socket to the programming pads which has made programming reliably hands free now. It's just a row of three SIL turned pin sockets from a long strip. A similar row of three is wired to the programmer's cable, and the two fit together very nicely.
Incidentally, I had problems with SpinASM to start with. To get it to work in Win 10 it seems to need Win 7 compatibility and admin rights to write into the Program(x86) directories.
I have a few ideas I want to try out, but firstly some simple EQ stuff to get used to this coding lark.
Cheers
Cliff
Here's a bit of code in case anyone finds it useful.
It enables a pot to have a preset value when a patch is started. When the pot is moved about an 1/8 turn, then the actual pot value takes over. Switching to another patch and then back again puts it back in preset mode again.
As a bit of a preamble, I have been using an old Zoom Acoustic pedal to add a bit of body tone and reverb for Aco slide guitar playing. Lately it is making annoying noises (not just my playing :) ) and it will have to be retired. I have matched the EQ part of it so far and will add a suitably small reverb next up. I like presets to be presets - it's great having knobs on pedals but they can be a pain. This gives a bit of flexibility too.
Here is the EQ code showing the pot preset feature. The EQ code is incidental - it works for my guitar, though.
; CS Aco EQ1 preset patch. Starts with gain preset.
; If pot moved by more than 15%, actual pot takes over until patch restarted
; Pot 0: tba
; Pot 1: when active, EQ peak gain +/- 6db (Eq matches preset value at approx 2 o'clock)
; Pot 2: tba
;
equ kf 0.0320560500 ;band frequency = 170Hz
equ kq 0.9343308396 ;band Q = .48
equ kp 0.4 ;+ve gain value for preset
equ kg 0.0328345802 ;band internal gain - calculated from above
equ kinvhpf 0.0022983260 ;1-k for HPF @ 12Hz
;
;----pot1-preset constants
equ moved 0.15 ;15%
equ p1set 0.7 ;preset value (=0.4 after pot scaling)
;
equ hpfout reg6
equ khp reg7
equ eqin reg8
equ eqa reg9
equ eqb reg10
equ temp reg11
equ eqout reg12
;
;----pot1-preset registers
equ p1init reg13 ;value of pot at start
equ p1flag reg14 ;mode flag
equ pot1val reg15 ;effective value of pot1
;
;
; ----setup pot preset
skp run,start ;setup conditions
clr
rdax pot1,1
wrax p1init,0 ;Save initial Pot1 value
wrax p1flag,0 ;Pot1 mode flag to 0 to force preset
sof 0,p1set ;Put preset value
wrax pot1val,0 ; into register
start: clr
rdax p1flag,1 ;Check if still in preset mode
skp neg,readp1 ;If not go read pot
clr ;Otherwise
rdax pot1,1 ; check if pot has been moved
rdax p1init,-1 ;Calculate if difference between
absa ; current amd init values
sof -1,moved ; is bigger than threshold
skp gez,next ;If not move on
wrax p1flag,0 ;If yes set mode flag neg
readp1: clr
rdax pot1,1
wrax pot1val,0 ;Put pot value in reg
next: clr
;------ high pass filter
rdax adcl,kinvhpf
rdax khp,-kinvhpf
rdax khp,1
wrax khp,-1
rdax adcl,1
wrax hpfout,0
;------ peaking EQ----filter output is in temp.
rdax hpfout,1
wrax eqin,0
rdax eqin, kg
rdax eqb,-kf
rdax eqa,1
wrax temp, kq
rdax eqin, kg
wrax eqa,0
rdax temp, kf
rdax eqb,1
wrax eqb,0
rdax pot1val,1 ;Read pot value
sof 1.9999389,-1 ;Convert from 0 to 1, to -1 to 1
mulx temp ;Mult by bp filter op
rdax eqin,1 ;Add original signal
wrax eqout,0 ;Save EQ output for next stage
rdax eqout,1 ; which in this case is output :)
wrax dacl,0
Cheers
Cliff
Ice-9,
Just read through the thread. Very interesting stuff, indeed!
Any news on the DIY Blue Nebula? or updates to the current FV-1 forum project?
For now, I can etch a single sided board to get started. There's also the tonepad layout.
Quote from: stringsthings on January 07, 2017, 05:58:55 PM
Ice-9,
Just read through the thread. Very interesting stuff, indeed!
Any news on the DIY Blue Nebula? or updates to the current FV-1 forum project?
For now, I can etch a single sided board to get started. There's also the tonepad layout.
I'm afraid I have been so busy with work over the last year that I have not had much time to do anything to further these. The FV-1 updated /revisited didn't get much interest or replies on the forum so I didn't bother looking any more into that for now but if there is interest I will take a look at it again. I am thinking of getting some PCB's ordered after the Chinese new year holiday for the Blue Nebula DIY. Maybe.
I am back to work after the Christmas Holidays now and have so much work to catch up on for the next month or two so any DIY will be a slow start to the year. :icon_frown:
@Ice-9 Hey Mick, I am very interested in a DIY Blue Nebula kit. I would buy it right away. I ordered your original FV-1 PCB years ago and pimped it to be something like the Blue Nebula but never finished it. But it still sounds great. So if you ever sell a DIY Blue Nebula kit i'll buy it. All the best for 2017.
Regards, stiwi
(http://alphakanal.de/static/images/diy/fv-1_breadboard_1.jpg)
(http://alphakanal.de/static/images/diy/fv-1_breadboard_2.jpg)
(http://alphakanal.de/static/images/diy/fv-1_breadboard_3.jpg)
If you decide to sell the Blue Nebula PCB's, I'll take one or two. :)
@Ice-9,
I think there are lots of folks that would be interested. But this is a VERY old and LONG thread, and I think LOTS of folks have given up on the idea you and the other guys who did the Blue Nebula project really intend to release a DIY version, and have just quit following the thread. I guess I haven't quite, but I'm incredibly tenacious, probably to the extreme, but at this point mostly I keep following the thread to see what the deal REALLY is, with ALL the mixed messages.
I don't mean to piss you off by saying that, but try and see it from the point of view of people who kept waiting and waiting with a pic of a finished board, obviously ready to go,oh, BTW, we're all working very hand to finalize the design before releasing it, oh, BTW, we just released a finished Blue Nebula pedal product we are selling all made up, then another tease about we will probably release a partial kit of pcb and firmware to the diy community sometime soon, and months and months of waiting.
The only time I see posts from the team in this thread are in response to other folks wanting to know what's going on with it.
If you are really considering releasing a DIY pcb and firmware kit and want to get a feel for the demand, start a new thread and ask people to reply about their level of interest.
If it's never going to happen, I encourage you all to be straight up and say you guys really aren't going to release it because you want to keep all your work to yourselves. You have the right. I'm sure you put a LOT of work into it. But just give folks a straight answer.
My 2 cents worth.
Quote from: MR COFFEE on January 19, 2017, 11:45:28 PM
@Ice-9,
I think there are lots of folks that would be interested. But this is a VERY old and LONG thread, and I think LOTS of folks have given up on the idea you and the other guys who did the Blue Nebula project really intend to release a DIY version, and have just quit following the thread. I guess I haven't quite, but I'm incredibly tenacious, probably to the extreme, but at this point mostly I keep following the thread to see what the deal REALLY is, with ALL the mixed messages.
I don't mean to piss you off by saying that, but try and see it from the point of view of people who kept waiting and waiting with a pic of a finished board, obviously ready to go,oh, BTW, we're all working very hand to finalize the design before releasing it, oh, BTW, we just released a finished Blue Nebula pedal product we are selling all made up, then another tease about we will probably release a partial kit of pcb and firmware to the diy community sometime soon, and months and months of waiting.
The only time I see posts from the team in this thread are in response to other folks wanting to know what's going on with it.
If you are really considering releasing a DIY pcb and firmware kit and want to get a feel for the demand, start a new thread and ask people to reply about their level of interest.
If it's never going to happen, I encourage you all to be straight up and say you guys really aren't going to release it because you want to keep all your work to yourselves. You have the right. I'm sure you put a LOT of work into it. But just give folks a straight answer.
My 2 cents worth.
I see your frustration MR COFFEE. while I did say a diy pcb could/would be available for BN this thread had nothing to do with the Blue Nebula as it was all about the small pedal that was released way back when, the is thread is valid for that first FV-1 effect and all the PM's I get are about the first little pedal not the BN.
I did mention the Blue Nebula in this thread when someone asked if it was possible to make something FV-1 based with a LCD/Arduino/pic control. I will get some PCB's ordered 1st week of Feb when the factories re-open + 3 weeks delivery,these can be used for diy BN, all the firmware and software is available to download on my website already from the BN manuals page.
The problem getting anything new diy out has not been lack of being bothered to do it but lack of time to do the diy side. As a sole trader making guitar pedals I am working loooong hours 7 days a week and customers waiting for any of my products are priority. Just when I think I have a few hours spare to do something else I find out I haven't.
So the short answer is YES, not a kit though just pcb's/BOM.
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 20, 2017, 06:56:09 AM
So the short answer is YES, not a kit though just pcb's/BOM.
I like short answers: ;D
Quote from: loopmasta on January 20, 2017, 09:30:10 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 20, 2017, 06:56:09 AM
So the short answer is YES, not a kit though just pcb's/BOM.
I like short answers: ;D
;D
I am really excited about this, have one unused FV-1 that has been sitting in a box for ages, just waiting for a nice project to be used for.
Looking forward to the BN PCB! :)
I want to clarify the connections to program (the original board) using a PICKit 2. Yes I know I've been at this for years but only now am going to program something other than the dev board. Time to get out of the dungeon and into the real world so to speak.
In the picture attached to reply 88 http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=104291.msg942385#msg942385
there are 3 lines going from the PICKit2 over to the Wingnut PCB. Let's number these 1 2 3 starting at the bottom.
#1 goes to ground, which is also pin #3 of the ICSP header on the PICKit2. This is represented by the black wire.
#2 connects by a blue wire, which appears to connect to pin #5 on the PICKit2, which is ICSPCLK/PGC. There is a blue pin on the ISCP header but it is skipped.
#3 connects by a yellow wire to the corner of the PICKit2 header, which would appear to be pin #6, but this is PICKit2 ICSP signal AUX which does not appear to be correct.
I don't think there is any rhyme or reason to the colors shown as I have seen several variations on this in published diagrams.
I THINK that the correct connections should be:
#1 - GND
#2 - ICSPCLK/PGC - to go to i2c CLK
#3 - ICSPDAT/PGD - to go to i2c DATA
or perhaps pins 2 and 3 are swapped. If anyone reading this can confirm it before I disassemble the pedal to ohm it out, please do!
Thx,
DL
Quote from: Digital Larry on January 21, 2017, 09:30:11 AM
In the picture attached to reply 88 http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=104291.msg942385#msg942385
there are 3 lines going from the PICKit2 over to the Wingnut PCB. Let's number these 1 2 3 starting at the bottom.
#1 goes to ground, which is also pin #3 of the ICSP header on the PICKit2. This is represented by the black wire.
#2 connects by a blue wire, which appears to connect to pin #5 on the PICKit2, which is ICSPCLK/PGC. There is a blue pin on the ISCP header but it is skipped.
#3 connects by a yellow wire to the corner of the PICKit2 header, which would appear to be pin #6, but this is PICKit2 ICSP signal AUX which does not appear to be correct.
[snip]
#1 - GND
#2 - ICSPCLK/PGC - to go to i2c CLK
#3 - ICSPDAT/PGD - to go to i2c DATA
I can confirm that using pins 3-5-6 of the Pickit2 as shown in the photo you refer to is
*correct*!
PGC -> SCL
AUX -> SDA
However, I cannot find this in any of the official Microchip documentation, only in images from a websearch.
I use a Pickit2 and the pk2cmd on a Mac (as you know, from your own forum ;)
and I just doublechecked my homemade cable from the Pickit2 -> my FV-1 board and it uses pins 3-5-6 of the Pickit2.
Unfortunately, on my board the Pickit2 seems to pull (at least) one of the I2C lines, so I have to disconnect it before I force the FV-1 to reload a program from the EEPROM.
Thanks for the response. I'll try it. I'll use a scope so I'll make sure that no voltages are out of spec.
[Update] - your info and the original post are confirmed.
http://ww1.microchip.com/downloads/en/DeviceDoc/PICkit%202%20Readme%20v2-61-00%20%28a%29.txt
Connections for 24LC devices
---------------------------------------
PICkit 2 Pin 24LC Device Pin (DIP)
(2) Vdd ! 8 Vcc
(3) GND 4 Vss
(5) PGC 6 SCL (driven as push-pull)
(6) AUX 5 SDA (requires pullup)
7 WP - disabled (GND)
1, 2, 3 Ax pins
Connect to Vdd or GND per
datasheet and to set address
! 24LC devices may not program properly below 3.6V VDD.
This is a limitation of the PICkit 2 AUX IO pin.
Thanks!!!! ;D
@ Ice-9
Glad to hear the blue Nebula pcb and firmware is really going to happen!!!
Thank you!!
Count me in for one - h*ll, I'll buy two or more if you have even the slightest trouble selling them. They will make a great pedal and development platform Start another thread on the Blue Nebula PCBs for the DIY community. You might find you make more money selling them than soldering and assembling boxes to sell. And we'll be glad to pay you a fair price for your work as well as bulk PCB, shipping, and postage costs.
You are cool dudes!!!
Looks like I got it to work. Little concerned though. This is one of those Chinese PICKit 2 clones. Vdd and SDA are max 3.3 volts signals while SCK was going 0 to 5 when doing a transfer. When not doing a transfer, SCK was about 1.8 volts. SDA is at 3.3 volts. I don't want to blow the chip up. PICKIt obviously driving clock at 5 volts.
I understand your concern, but probably all is fine. There's a thread somewhere on the Spin Semi forum about the 5v tolerance of the FV-1 pins, turns out the chip can handle it just ok, even if it's not specced 'hard'. Not sure about the 24L EEPROM though. I know, it's not robust engineering what we're practicing here :icon_redface:
SCK might float halfway because it's Hi-Z, SDA is pulled up so the 3.3V makes sense.
Glad you got it working!
Good engineering would be to use a levelshifter, check this Philips Application Note: https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/datasheets/an97055.pdf
Only 2 mosfets and 4 resistors.
Thank you so much!!!
Quote from: Digital Larry on January 22, 2017, 01:03:44 AM
Looks like I got it to work. Little concerned though. This is one of those Chinese PICKit 2 clones. Vdd and SDA are max 3.3 volts signals while SCK was going 0 to 5 when doing a transfer. When not doing a transfer, SCK was about 1.8 volts. SDA is at 3.3 volts. I don't want to blow the chip up. PICKIt obviously driving clock at 5 volts.
Hi Gary, if you just use 3 wires, SDA, SDK, GND and power the pedal from it's own power rather than the Pickit clone then all should be fine. All my later PCb designs have a 4 pin PGM connection on the PCB and the +v connector actually goes to the input side of the 3.3v reg, so that solves 2 possible issues when programming the EEPROM.
1. No need to remember to set the voltage to 3.2v or a preferred 3.7v within the Pickit software as the on board effect reg will set it to a safe FV-1 3.2v no matter what the pickit is set at
2. If programming the EEPROM with no power applied to the pedal, no need to worry about damaging the reg. with a situation where the regulator output has a higher voltage then its input.
I did update the last 1590b FV-1 circuit and pcb a little while ago so will post all the files here as a final project file. (these were the files I updated for you friend who contacted me about his pedal making school).
Mick
Thanks Mick. My problems are:
a) I don't really understand the PICKit2 outputs (totem pole, open collector, or something else) - I suppose they are documented somewhere, not enough hours in the day sometimes...
b) I've read about a fair number of "5 volt only" PICKit2 clones and I don't know if this one is one of them.
But aside from that it seems to be working so far.
Thanks!
Quote from: Digital Larry on January 22, 2017, 11:21:41 PM
Thanks Mick. My problems are:
a) I don't really understand the PICKit2 outputs (totem pole, open collector, or something else) - I suppose they are documented somewhere, not enough hours in the day sometimes...
b) I've read about a fair number of "5 volt only" PICKit2 clones and I don't know if this one is one of them.
But aside from that it seems to be working so far.
Thanks!
No need to worry too much about any of that, just connect the GND, SDA,SDK lines from the pedal to the programmer. Then power the pedal from it's own 9v , All should be fine. I have not used a Pickit2 clone programmer before though, does it still use the official pickit2 software ? or does it have a generic software like ponyprog ?
It has just crossed my mind, if you are using the Spin dev board you could even wire up an 8 pin dIL socket to a little 3 or way header and use the spin dev board as the programmer to flash the EEPROM in the the effect pedal.
If you're worried about the 5 volts possibly damaging something you could stick a resistor in series between the Pickit output and SCK on the eeprom 100Ohm to 1k would probably work and add a 3.3 volt zener diode across SCK and ground, that would clamp the voltage to 3.3 volts. If you haven't got any suitable zeners you could use a led and a couple of silicon diodes in series to get about a 3.3 volt drop.
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 24, 2017, 01:39:20 PM
No need to worry too much about any of that, just connect the GND, SDA,SDK lines from the pedal to the programmer. Then power the pedal from it's own 9v , All should be fine. I have not used a Pickit2 clone programmer before though, does it still use the official pickit2 software ? or does it have a generic software like ponyprog ?
It has just crossed my mind, if you are using the Spin dev board you could even wire up an 8 pin dIL socket to a little 3 or way header and use the spin dev board as the programmer to flash the EEPROM in the the effect pedal.
I got a PICKit 2 clone and also recently what's called an ICD2 programmer. Both of them feature the 6-pin "ICSP" header. The PICKit2 clone self identifies on USB as a MicroChip PICKit2 and it does work with the pk2cmd command line tools under Ubuntu Linux. I tried getting it to work under MPLAB X under Windows, and while the device shows up in the list of available hw interfaces there, it is not "green" and it is not selectable. No idea what the issue is there, but since cmd line in Linux works OK I am good to go.
I made a drawing of how to connect from ICSP to the pedal connections and that seems to work OK. The only thing that would make that better would be for the header on the pedal to exactly match the ICSP pinout so I could plug directly rather than having to add the spaghetti wires.
For now I am good to go! Thanks.
Quote from: slacker on January 24, 2017, 03:49:44 PM
If you're worried about the 5 volts possibly damaging something you could stick a resistor in series between the Pickit output and SCK on the eeprom 100Ohm to 1k would probably work and add a 3.3 volt zener diode across SCK and ground, that would clamp the voltage to 3.3 volts. If you haven't got any suitable zeners you could use a led and a couple of silicon diodes in series to get about a 3.3 volt drop.
Great idea, thanks!
Apologies for the daft question but are you setting the pickit to 3.3 volts in the pk2cmd command you're using?
I tried -A3.7 on one test and clock was still 0 to 5 volts so that's why I'm not sure if this one programmer has the ability to change voltages. I was just reading the existing EEPROM to back it up, which explains why CLK was 0 to 5 while DATA was going 0 to 3.3V.
Since then, sadly it seems like my Velleman USB scope died and so I can't accurately check this any more!
Hello,
This is a loooong thread, so please don't be too angry at me if i ask a few simple questions. I think a few other people like me who would be interested in starting to touch the FV-1 would also be interested.
- I found Ice-9's FV-1 boards at OHS park, but not build doc, is there a link to that doc/BOM?
- Can this board also program the FV-1? is it enough to actually replace a dev board and what else woud be needed? a pickit?
Thanks a lot for your help guys
Quote from: add4 on February 12, 2017, 09:50:05 AM
Hello,
This is a loooong thread, so please don't be too angry at me if i ask a few simple questions. I think a few other people like me who would be interested in starting to touch the FV-1 would also be interested.
- I found Ice-9's FV-1 boards at OHS park, but not build doc, is there a link to that doc/BOM?
- Can this board also program the FV-1? is it enough to actually replace a dev board and what else woud be needed? a pickit?
Thanks a lot for your help guys
It is very helpful to read the whole thread. Here are some highlights IMO which I found useful to refer back to when I did my builds:
Page 1:
first two instalments plus discussion of programmer
page 5:
#88 PICkit prog connections
#98 ref to 8 pole prog select switch
Page 6:
#105 PIC alternative
#114 BOM
#117 Drill template
Page 8:
#145 PIC code
#146 Echo/Rev code
Page 10:
#188 room reverb
Page 12:
#228 programmer diagramme and instructions Slacker
Page 13:
#250 more on programming
#252 download of project info
#259 asm versions of FV-1 project programs
Page 14:
#263 replace R2 with link allows full 9v to analogue circuitry
#268 using arduino to control footswitch selection of programs
#269 simple echo code
#270 Slacker's BabelFish
Page 19:
#373 distortion algorithm
regards
Cliff
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 22, 2017, 03:54:49 PM
I did update the last 1590b FV-1 circuit and pcb a little while ago so will post all the files here as a final project file. (these were the files I updated for you friend who contacted me about his pedal making school).
Mick
I'd definitely be interested in an update, and if someone else is looking to make a PCB order with the update from OSH Park or somewhere I'd be happy to join/share/split costs!
Quote from: cliffsp8 on February 12, 2017, 02:44:20 PM
Quote from: add4 on February 12, 2017, 09:50:05 AM
Hello,
This is a loooong thread, so please don't be too angry at me if i ask a few simple questions. I think a few other people like me who would be interested in starting to touch the FV-1 would also be interested.
- I found Ice-9's FV-1 boards at OHS park, but not build doc, is there a link to that doc/BOM?
- Can this board also program the FV-1? is it enough to actually replace a dev board and what else woud be needed? a pickit?
Thanks a lot for your help guys
It is very helpful to read the whole thread. Here are some highlights IMO which I found useful to refer back to when I did my builds:
Page 1:
first two instalments plus discussion of programmer
page 5:
#88 PICkit prog connections
#98 ref to 8 pole prog select switch
Page 6:
#105 PIC alternative
#114 BOM
#117 Drill template
Page 8:
#145 PIC code
#146 Echo/Rev code
Page 10:
#188 room reverb
Page 12:
#228 programmer diagramme and instructions Slacker
Page 13:
#250 more on programming
#252 download of project info
#259 asm versions of FV-1 project programs
Page 14:
#263 replace R2 with link allows full 9v to analogue circuitry
#268 using arduino to control footswitch selection of programs
#269 simple echo code
#270 Slacker's BabelFish
Page 19:
#373 distortion algorithm
regards
Cliff
Thanks!
Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
I have 2 of the 8 way switch PCBs surplus to my requirements if anyone needs one (cost plus postage).
Cheers
Roger
Quote from: cliffsp8 on February 12, 2017, 02:44:20 PM
Quote from: add4 on February 12, 2017, 09:50:05 AM
Hello,
This is a loooong thread, so please don't be too angry at me if i ask a few simple questions. I think a few other people like me who would be interested in starting to touch the FV-1 would also be interested.
- I found Ice-9's FV-1 boards at OHS park, but not build doc, is there a link to that doc/BOM?
- Can this board also program the FV-1? is it enough to actually replace a dev board and what else woud be needed? a pickit?
Thanks a lot for your help guys
It is very helpful to read the whole thread. Here are some highlights IMO which I found useful to refer back to when I did my builds:
Page 1:
first two instalments plus discussion of programmer
page 5:
#88 PICkit prog connections
#98 ref to 8 pole prog select switch
Page 6:
#105 PIC alternative
#114 BOM
#117 Drill template
Page 8:
#145 PIC code
#146 Echo/Rev code
Page 10:
#188 room reverb
Page 12:
#228 programmer diagramme and instructions Slacker
Page 13:
#250 more on programming
#252 download of project info
#259 asm versions of FV-1 project programs
Page 14:
#263 replace R2 with link allows full 9v to analogue circuitry
#268 using arduino to control footswitch selection of programs
#269 simple echo code
#270 Slacker's BabelFish
Page 19:
#373 distortion algorithm
regards
Cliff
Great post Cliff :icon_cool:
Quote from: orbitbot on February 14, 2017, 06:14:15 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 22, 2017, 03:54:49 PM
I did update the last 1590b FV-1 circuit and pcb a little while ago so will post all the files here as a final project file. (these were the files I updated for you friend who contacted me about his pedal making school).
Mick
I'd definitely be interested in an update, and if someone else is looking to make a PCB order with the update from OSH Park or somewhere I'd be happy to join/share/split costs!
Give me a few days and I will make a newer update with dry/wet external mix as well as the 3 fv-1 pots, option for dry cut for parallel amp send/return.
Quote from: Ice-9 on February 15, 2017, 03:55:36 PM
Quote from: orbitbot on February 14, 2017, 06:14:15 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 22, 2017, 03:54:49 PM
I did update the last 1590b FV-1 circuit and pcb a little while ago so will post all the files here as a final project file. (these were the files I updated for you friend who contacted me about his pedal making school).
Mick
I'd definitely be interested in an update, and if someone else is looking to make a PCB order with the update from OSH Park or somewhere I'd be happy to join/share/split costs!
Give me a few days and I will make a newer update with dry/wet external mix as well as the 3 fv-1 pots, option for dry cut for parallel amp send/return.
Do these boards include an easy way to program the chips? Pins that can be used for this?
If that's the case I'm definitely in for one too
Envoyé de mon iPhone en utilisant Tapatalk
Afaik the FV-1 can be programmed in situ but the PIC needs to be programmed before soldering in place - see post 228 page 12
Amazing work!
Please tell me whether I I see a demo on YouTube (includes all the features of of this great pedal)?
Thanks.
Quote from: Ice-9 on February 15, 2017, 03:55:36 PM
Quote from: orbitbot on February 14, 2017, 06:14:15 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 22, 2017, 03:54:49 PM
I did update the last 1590b FV-1 circuit and pcb a little while ago so will post all the files here as a final project file. (these were the files I updated for you friend who contacted me about his pedal making school).
Mick
I'd definitely be interested in an update, and if someone else is looking to make a PCB order with the update from OSH Park or somewhere I'd be happy to join/share/split costs!
Give me a few days and I will make a newer update with dry/wet external mix as well as the 3 fv-1 pots, option for dry cut for parallel amp send/return.
Ice-9/Mick, did you have any time to have a look at this?
Wow,
Just came across this thread , looks like an awesome introduction to DSP and guitar pedals and I'm only about half way through reading it!. Is it still possible to get hold of these boards Mick?.
Great resource with tons of info.
Many thanks daz
[EDIT] - Just found the new thread - http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=114557.0 !! -
Boards are available from OSH Park:
https://oshpark.com/profiles/Ice-9
We've just completed a build of three pedals using the FV-1 board and 8-position switch board from OSH Park -- they're all working well.
Would anyone be interested in a build guide for this pedal? I'd be happy to take a crack at one ...
T.
P.S. Key tip for builders -- program the PIC microcontroller *before* putting it on the board. It makes things much easier ...
Quote from: taudio on June 02, 2017, 09:28:49 AM
Boards are available from OSH Park:
https://oshpark.com/profiles/Ice-9
We've just completed a build of three pedals using the FV-1 board and 8-position switch board from OSH Park -- they're all working well.
Would anyone be interested in a build guide for this pedal? I'd be happy to take a crack at one ...
T.
P.S. Key tip for builders -- program the PIC microcontroller *before* putting it on the board. It makes things much easier ...
Thanks taudio, I was just about to point out the link to OSH Park for the PCB.
No problem Ice9!
Thanks for making such a great project. I'm loving it.
taudio, a build guide would be ace for dsp dummies (me)
taudio,
I would appreciate a guide too :)
Thanks !
Quote from: RogerC on February 15, 2017, 07:55:06 AM
I have 2 of the 8 way switch PCBs surplus to my requirements if anyone needs one (cost plus postage).
Cheers
Roger
Hi Roger,
I'd be interested in taking these - drop me a pm with your details :)
Thanks daz
Daz,
PM sent
Roger
Quote from: Tuff Pedals on June 13, 2017, 08:35:28 AM
taudio,
I would appreciate a guide too :)
Thanks !
OK -- I'll start work on one. It will probably take a couple of weeks to complete.
Great,
Looking forward to it, thanks for taking the time :)
Cheers daz
Quote from: taudio on June 02, 2017, 09:28:49 AM
We've just completed a build of three pedals using the FV-1 board and 8-position switch board from OSH Park -- they're all working well.
Would anyone be interested in a build guide for this pedal? I'd be happy to take a crack at one ...
T.
P.S. Key tip for builders -- program the PIC microcontroller *before* putting it on the board. It makes things much easier ...
About to order some boards and give this project a shot.
Quick question: What are you using to program the chips? Is the pickit 2 still the best solution?
Yeah the Pickit2 or clone is perfect. NOTE- Pickit3 cannot program the EEPROM.
I don't know about you but I'm finding it harder to locate PICKit 2 clones from China on eBay. I saw one listing that had a PICKit2, PICKit3, and something else all for about 5 dollars, which seems ridiculous. I have one already so it's not a huge deal, but wondering about how people just getting into this are going to manage.
Haven't tested it myself, but apparently the cheap CH341A programmer will burn 24 series eeproms:
(http://i236.photobucket.com/albums/ff176/314_tr/forumpics/CH341A-i2cEEPROM_zpsfbo78ldk.png)
Quote from: Digital Larry on June 28, 2017, 09:59:16 AM
I don't know about you but I'm finding it harder to locate PICKit 2 clones from China on eBay. I saw one listing that had a PICKit2, PICKit3, and something else all for about 5 dollars, which seems ridiculous. I have one already so it's not a huge deal, but wondering about how people just getting into this are going to manage.
Thanks all for the replies!
Digital Larry: I'm finding cheap postings for PICKit2 like the following on ebay, are you finding the same? Do there seem to be issues with these? (I know the sellers say PICKit2, but perhaps there's something off that I'm not noticing.)
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/PICkit2-PIC-KIT-PIC-Debugger-Programmer-Emulator-ICSP-for-FLASH-ROM-EEPROM-/192046172762?epid=519488197&hash=item2cb6d80a5a:g:GRIAAOSwhQhY2NcL
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/microcontrollers-PICkit2-PIC-KIT2-debugger-programmer-for-PIC24-PIC32-PIC-dsPIC-/201325676677?hash=item2edff20885:g:RI0AAOSw~AVYnSIL
- http://www.ebay.com/itm/Enhanced-Microchip-PIC-Emulator-PICKit2-Programmer-USB-Cable-ICSP-Cable/281984439576?_trksid=p2045573.c100506.m3226&_trkparms=aid%3D555014%26algo%3DPL.DEFAULT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D41375%26meid%3Dc7b80b38fbd64d988608497273397dde%26pid%3D100506%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D1%26
Well don't take my statement too seriously, it's not like I am quality control on Chinese PICKit 2. That looks similar to one of the ones I have.
One issue that I "think" I had was that the programming output of the unit I got does not switch to 3.3 volts, even though there appears to be a command line parameter of the software to make it do so. You can add a 3.3 volt zener and current limiting resistor, but that is added complexity that one would hope to avoid. I did not blow up my pedal using it this way but it does make me a little nervous and reluctant to recommend any specific device because you might not be so lucky.
Quote from: Digital Larry on June 30, 2017, 09:59:46 AM
Well don't take my statement too seriously, it's not like I am quality control on Chinese PICKit 2. That looks similar to one of the ones I have.
One issue that I "think" I had was that the programming output of the unit I got does not switch to 3.3 volts, even though there appears to be a command line parameter of the software to make it do so. You can add a 3.3 volt zener and current limiting resistor, but that is added complexity that one would hope to avoid. I did not blow up my pedal using it this way but it does make me a little nervous and reluctant to recommend any specific device because you might not be so lucky.
I hear what you mean about this, all my later PCB's have the program port routed a little different, the +v power pad that connects to the Pickit2 or similar now routes to the input side of the 3.3v reg on board the PSU so that no matter what programmer voltage is selected the FV-1 chip should never see the wrong voltage.
Quote from: taudio on June 17, 2017, 10:25:41 AM
Quote from: Tuff Pedals on June 13, 2017, 08:35:28 AM
taudio,
I would appreciate a guide too :)
Thanks !
OK -- I'll start work on one. It will probably take a couple of weeks to complete.
Hi taudio ,
How's the guide coming along :)
Thanks daz
Sorry everyone, it looks like this thread and all my pictures in other threads have been hit by the 'Photobucket Conspiracy' and they are all gone from the forum.
Noooooooooooooooooooo !!! Thats terrible , photobucket should be ashamed of themselves , I guess they need to make money but $399 per year is outrageous!. Not sure I'll get to build this now! - booo photo bucket booo :-[ :-[ :-[
Oh noo!!!!
This week I received my parts and I was planning to start building it. Damn!
This guys are really hijacking your images and asking for a 399$ ransom... crazy
I'm hoping that some kind soul will put together a build guide , it would be a shame for this resource to end like this after all the effort Mick has put into sharing this project and everyone else who has contributed to this thread!
My fingers are crossed!
Hi All
I've re-read all posts in the long thread, but I can't find the PIC program already compiled in HEX format. Does anyone have it?
I have the source code but I have a new PC and I'm lazy to install MPLAB at the moment... I was hoping to get the HEX ready for programming.
Mat
Quote from: potul on July 15, 2017, 01:57:51 PM
Hi All
I've re-read all posts in the long thread, but I can't find the PIC program already compiled in HEX format. Does anyone have it?
I have the source code but I have a new PC and I'm lazy to install MPLAB at the moment... I was hoping to get the HEX ready for programming.
Mat
Forget it... I already compiled it myself... I have a VM with windows XP and MPLAB installed I could use.
On the other hand... I know it's a stupid question, but how do you connect the PIC to the programmer? I mean, physically. I've never programmed an SMD devide outside of the PCB, and I have no clue how to make the connections needed between the PIC and the programmer. Alligator clips are too big.. Maybe solderig temp cables? But I want to be sure later on I'm able to solder it correctly to the pcb, so I'm hesitating to do this.
Any advise on how to program the bloody PIC?
I ended up placing an order for one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOIC8-SOP8-to-DIP8-EZ-Programmer-Adapter-Socket-Converter-Module-150mil-/140938311821?epid=622203825&hash=item20d093f88d:g:VnoAAOSwZVlXlzL9 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOIC8-SOP8-to-DIP8-EZ-Programmer-Adapter-Socket-Converter-Module-150mil-/140938311821?epid=622203825&hash=item20d093f88d:g:VnoAAOSwZVlXlzL9)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/MxcAAOxy7nNTTjhG/s-l200.jpg)
But... as I don't want to wait, I did a dirty connection by soldering some cables to the PIC, and I was able to program it successfully. My only concern is if after this, and removing the cables I will be able to solder it properly to the PCB.
Specially taking into account that my SMD soldering skills are unexisting....
Now I have to sit and wait for my FV-1 to reach the mailbox.
Mat
Quote from: potul on July 16, 2017, 02:08:46 PM
I ended up placing an order for one of these:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOIC8-SOP8-to-DIP8-EZ-Programmer-Adapter-Socket-Converter-Module-150mil-/140938311821?epid=622203825&hash=item20d093f88d:g:VnoAAOSwZVlXlzL9 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/SOIC8-SOP8-to-DIP8-EZ-Programmer-Adapter-Socket-Converter-Module-150mil-/140938311821?epid=622203825&hash=item20d093f88d:g:VnoAAOSwZVlXlzL9)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/thumbs/images/g/MxcAAOxy7nNTTjhG/s-l200.jpg)
But... as I don't want to wait, I did a dirty connection by soldering some cables to the PIC, and I was able to program it successfully. My only concern is if after this, and removing the cables I will be able to solder it properly to the PCB.
Specially taking into account that my SMD soldering skills are unexisting....
Now I have to sit and wait for my FV-1 to reach the mailbox.
Mat
Quick and dirty or soic8 test socket, both work just as well, test socket is better for other stuff as well :icon_wink:
Ok, some small progress today, but big for me.
This is my first SMD job so far. It looks good,... but I wonder if I fried anything during soldering (I used hot air gun and solder paste, and really had to apply heat for a long time for the paste to melt...)
(https://s24.postimg.org/f6qzx07ep/xk_LE1_TPzz9ml_DIn_Ol_F8_A1gionj_Q5ih6u68rz_ALd8_Ly_Yp_X92_I.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/f6qzx07ep/)
Later this week I will start to populate the rest of the components. Can I trust this BOM in page 6 for parts numbering?
QuoteR1 = 100K C1 = 100uf electro
R2 = 33 Ohm C2 = 10uf electro
R3 = 47K C3 = 100nf
R4 = 47K C4 = 10uf electro
R5 = 1M C5 = 100nf
R6 = Fit jumper wire C6 = 1uf 16v electro
R7 = 470K C7 = 1nf
R8 = 1K C8 = 1uf 16v electro
R9 = 1K C9 = Not Fitted
R10 = 1K C10 = Not Fitted
R11 = Not Fitted C11 = 10uf electro
R12 = Fit jumper wire C12 = 1uf electro
R13 = 1K C13 = 47pf ceramic
R14 = Fit jumper wire C14 = 100n
R15 = 100K C15 = 1uf electro
R16 = 100 Ohm
R17 = 10K
R22 = 4K7 (LED current resistor) X1 =32.768khz Watch Crystal
Rx = 100K
VR1 = 50Kb TR1 = IRFD9024
VR2 = 50Kb D1 = BZX55c 10v Zenner
VR3 = 50Kb Reg = 78L33 (3.3v regulator)
VR4 = 50Kb (or switch assembly) IC1 = TL072
IC2 = 24LC32A Eeprom SOIC
SW1 = 3PDT Footswitch IC3 = FV-1 Reverb
JK1,2 = Stereo PCB mount IC4 = PIC12F683
Jack socket LED = 5mm Red led
Quote from: potul on July 17, 2017, 03:27:01 PM
Ok, some small progress today, but big for me.
This is my first SMD job so far. It looks good,... but I wonder if I fried anything during soldering (I used hot air gun and solder paste, and really had to apply heat for a long time for the paste to melt...)
(https://s24.postimg.org/f6qzx07ep/xk_LE1_TPzz9ml_DIn_Ol_F8_A1gionj_Q5ih6u68rz_ALd8_Ly_Yp_X92_I.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/f6qzx07ep/)
Later this week I will start to populate the rest of the components. Can I trust this BOM in page 6 for parts numbering?
QuoteR1 = 100K C1 = 100uf electro
R2 = 33 Ohm C2 = 10uf electro
R3 = 47K C3 = 100nf
R4 = 47K C4 = 10uf electro
R5 = 1M C5 = 100nf
R6 = Fit jumper wire C6 = 1uf 16v electro
R7 = 470K C7 = 1nf
R8 = 1K C8 = 1uf 16v electro
R9 = 1K C9 = Not Fitted
R10 = 1K C10 = Not Fitted
R11 = Not Fitted C11 = 10uf electro
R12 = Fit jumper wire C12 = 1uf electro
R13 = 1K C13 = 47pf ceramic
R14 = Fit jumper wire C14 = 100n
R15 = 100K C15 = 1uf electro
R16 = 100 Ohm
R17 = 10K
R22 = 4K7 (LED current resistor) X1 =32.768khz Watch Crystal
Rx = 100K
VR1 = 50Kb TR1 = IRFD9024
VR2 = 50Kb D1 = BZX55c 10v Zenner
VR3 = 50Kb Reg = 78L33 (3.3v regulator)
VR4 = 50Kb (or switch assembly) IC1 = TL072
IC2 = 24LC32A Eeprom SOIC
SW1 = 3PDT Footswitch IC3 = FV-1 Reverb
JK1,2 = Stereo PCB mount IC4 = PIC12F683
Jack socket LED = 5mm Red led
SMD is looking good, parts list sub R2 33R with a jumper. I will have a look to see if I can replace the schematic and layout pictures that have gone due to Photobucket.
Download with schematic still available from link in post #252, page 13 of this thread
Ah thanks...
for some reason I had downloaded the rar file and never realized there was the schematic in there...
This will make it easier.
Mat
Quick question... as this is not in the schematic
In the PCB, at what voltage is the LED powered? is it getting the full 9v or 3.3v? I need this in order to decide the limiting resistor value... (I assume it's getting the 9v, just want to double check)
Mat
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 17, 2017, 04:26:23 PM
SMD is looking good, parts list sub R2 33R with a jumper. I will have a look to see if I can replace the schematic and layout pictures that have gone due to Photobucket.
Sorry folks,... some more questions as I move on populating the pcb. If I don't use the mosfet and use standard diode protection, should I populate R2 or sub it with a link as stated above?
Quote from: potul on July 20, 2017, 08:14:52 AM
Quick question... as this is not in the schematic
In the PCB, at what voltage is the LED powered? is it getting the full 9v or 3.3v? I need this in order to decide the limiting resistor value... (I assume it's getting the 9v, just want to double check)
Mat
LED is wired to 9v with a limiting resistor in series to the footswitch to ground.
Quote from: potul on July 20, 2017, 08:50:11 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 17, 2017, 04:26:23 PM
SMD is looking good, parts list sub R2 33R with a jumper. I will have a look to see if I can replace the schematic and layout pictures that have gone due to Photobucket.
Sorry folks,... some more questions as I move on populating the pcb. If I don't use the mosfet and use standard diode protection, should I populate R2 or sub it with a link as stated above?
R2 should be replaced with a wire link in both configs, but check what you need to do to replace the mosfet, I don't have the circuit to hand at the moment but it will depend on what config of standard diode protection you want to use as to what needs altered with other wire links. Diode to ground or diode in series ?
Thanks for the help... I've already figured it out and now I have it powered.
So, I've finished the build, and as expected I'm having a big issue. I did not have a test socket when I did the smd soldering, so I did not program the eeprom before soldering... I programmed the pic only.
Now I'm trying to write to the eeprom without success. I'm not able to communicate with it.
Today I received a test socket.... I tried to flash the memory (another one I have) outside of the pcb and it worked fine, so the pickit and software works.
But, when I try to program it at the pcb, I get an error. Same error I get if I don't connect anything to the pickit.
I verified that pin 8 is having 3.3v, pins 1-4 and 7 are grounded, and pins 5 and 6 are connected to the pads under the pcb correctly.
Any hint on what can be happening? Maybe the eeprom is damaged during soldering?
PS: The PIC is working fine, I can see the gpios change status when moving the pot. I don't know if the FV-1 works because I have no program in the eeprom.
You can ground pin 13 and have internal patches active to test FV-1.
Quote from: lietuvis on July 20, 2017, 03:47:32 PM
You can ground pin 13 and have internal patches active to test FV-1.
I thought on doing this, but pin 13 is already connected to vcc, .... I would need to lift it first. It's a good option if everything else fails.
Ok, I'm narrowing things down . I've been able to program the EEPROM on board. The weird thing is, in order to do so I had to add the pull up resistor to SDA pin of the memory. I was under the impression this was not needed when in the pcb because there was already a pullup.
Looking at the schematic, SDA pin is only connected to FV-1, so I suppose when in the pcb, the pullup is done via the FV-1. But in my case this was not working...
So now that my eeprom is programmed and verified, I get no sound of the FV-1. When in bypass the signal comes through, but as soon as I engage, nothing comes.
Havind had this issue with the SDA pullup, I'm starting to suspect either the memory is not connected properly to the FV-1, or the FV-1 is dead...
I have to leave it for today, ... this weekend I will try to do some more debugging.
It will be worth reading the EEPROM with the programmer to see if data has actually been written correctly to the chip, also try to verify the data on the EEPROM via the pickit2. If I remember correctly it may also program best with the pedal connected to its power supply.
EDIT- I see you said the EEPROM is verified , I miss read that.
Can you audio probe the signal up to pin 1 of the FV-1 to make sure the audio is ok to this point ?
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 20, 2017, 04:06:22 PM
It will be worth reading the EEPROM with the programmer to see if data has actually been written correctly to the chip, also try to verify the data on the EEPROM via the pickit2. If I remember correctly it may also program best with the pedal connected to its power supply.
EDIT- I see you said the EEPROM is verified , I miss read that.
Can you audio probe the signal up to pin 1 of the FV-1 to make sure the audio is ok to this point ?
This is going to be my first step once I restart debugging...
Quote from: potul on July 20, 2017, 04:18:02 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 20, 2017, 04:06:22 PM
It will be worth reading the EEPROM with the programmer to see if data has actually been written correctly to the chip, also try to verify the data on the EEPROM via the pickit2. If I remember correctly it may also program best with the pedal connected to its power supply.
EDIT- I see you said the EEPROM is verified , I miss read that.
Can you audio probe the signal up to pin 1 of the FV-1 to make sure the audio is ok to this point ?
This is going to be my first step once I restart debugging...
I will keep an eye open on this thread over the weekend in case I can help.
Changing topics..... would this work as a program selector without PIC?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panel-Switch-x2-BCD-3-bit-binary-encoding-numeric-readout-push-button-advance-/172775100051
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panel-Switch-x2-BCD-3-bit-binary-encoding-numeric-readout-push-button-advance-/172775100051)
Wouldn't it be cool? :)
Quote from: potul on July 21, 2017, 02:25:53 AM
Changing topics..... would this work as a program selector without PIC?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panel-Switch-x2-BCD-3-bit-binary-encoding-numeric-readout-push-button-advance-/172775100051
(http://www.ebay.com/itm/Panel-Switch-x2-BCD-3-bit-binary-encoding-numeric-readout-push-button-advance-/172775100051)
Wouldn't it be cool? :)
Yes it should work but won't fit under pcb in 1590b. I have used one of this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-way-Rotary-Switch-ITW-16-412/272606168569?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 on my build where I use built in effects and its fitted on pcb but access from bottom of enclosure
(https://photos-1.dropbox.com/t/2/AABcsYrGISsaOjZxpwdd00MqELdNLWx2pc02ff8XAziC7g/12/12052326/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/IMG_0076.JPG/EOKU-wgYv94GIAIoAg/Yq2lvDHfG4jpU5rVpiyOJ909WCbhmL10aFcVwOmcU_I?size=2048x1536&size_mode=3)
(https://photos-2.dropbox.com/t/2/AABrD41rUQxENnJQv30Us4gGu3EOvR5D7hYH63BSDHHoqA/12/12052326/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/IMG_0075.JPG/EOKU-wgYv94GIAIoAg/gLSweCynQgh0gOxT4H05Do8R_GH9WJWIgM1C5-x57Ts?size=2048x1536&size_mode=3)
(https://photos-5.dropbox.com/t/2/AAAmk_tdW9XEDLyyJaICtGPSFF-Ayhxfugoc5fUt18z4GQ/12/12052326/jpeg/32x32/1/_/1/2/IMG_0074.JPG/EOKU-wgYv94GIAIoAg/WgdDJiuak_LCIMcu5xk-SBpFGWOC9WzAnzj2nc8Z2JE?size=2048x1536&size_mode=3)
Quote from: lietuvis on July 21, 2017, 06:31:34 AM
Yes it should work but won't fit under pcb in 1590b. I have used one of this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/16-way-Rotary-Switch-ITW-16-412/272606168569?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649 on my build where I use built in effects and its fitted on pcb but access from bottom of enclosure
Nice.... I didn't think about it... so in fact by connecting the extra bit to the FV-1 internal/external selector you can access all 8 internal and 8 external patches with a single selector. I was thinking on an additional switch, but this solution looks better.
If only they could be shafted ones ...
PS: Your pictures are not showing.
PS: Your pictures are not showing.
[/quote]
I can see them on my browser, here is link : https://www.dropbox.com/sh/dw093djpsbqn5vk/AADdnvfQLO4WZfNNIRWJfXnVa?dl=0
The PIC chip can also be programmed with a 4 bit counter code to select the internal programs, this would require the int/ext pin of the fv-1 to be lifted and connected to the pic, this would work perfectly with a pot to control the program changes but if a switch was required a 16 way switch would need to be used, I couldn't find a 16 way switch small enough to use :(
I did find pots with click indents which would have been great but I could only find them with 11 indents. Boss use this type of pot for program selection on the RV6 reverb pedal.
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 21, 2017, 11:34:43 AM
The PIC chip can also be programmed with a 4 bit counter code to select the internal programs,
mmm, I didn't think about it. That's a good solution as well if the PIC has a free I/O. Maybe in the next build... I need to make it work first as stock.
Mat
Hi here is another way to do program selection I found on web and tested and it works by using pic16f628a + 7 segment led indicator and using two buttons: up and down. find files in this link https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2keba7bngtucmkz/AACAtZDUPWDpqP1bNSVe-Jrpa?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2keba7bngtucmkz/AACAtZDUPWDpqP1bNSVe-Jrpa?dl=0)
Quote from: lietuvis on July 25, 2017, 06:55:23 AM
Hi here is another way to do program selection I found on web and tested and it works by using pic16f628a + 7 segment led indicator and using two buttons: up and down. find files in this link https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2keba7bngtucmkz/AACAtZDUPWDpqP1bNSVe-Jrpa?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/2keba7bngtucmkz/AACAtZDUPWDpqP1bNSVe-Jrpa?dl=0)
Yeah , I wrote the 7 segment up/down code for PIC16f628a and it is posted somewhere here or on the other popular pedal forum, the full schematic should be there as well. :icon_wink:
Ok, finally after a busy week I had the time to look more into my issue...
Definitively the issue is at the FV-1. Audio is hitting the FV-1 input, but no output out of any of the outputs. And if I inject audio at the output pin of the FV-1, it reaches the output jack (so the output part works as well)
Now, what things can I test to see why the FV-1 is not working properly? Things that come to my head:
1-Verify FV-1 received the right power and ground - DONE
2-Lift up the T0 in FV-1 to user internal programs -> I prefer to do this only as a last resort
3-Verify the crystal is oscillating. - Any idea how to do this?
4-Verify the communication from FV-1 to eeprom. Any suggestion how to do this?
5-Reprogram the eeprom with a simple bypass program (just in case the hex file was not good... but I used one file published here in the forum for the project, it should be ok...)
I have a USB scope I can use for troubleshooting.
I prefer non-destructing tests first.. as de-solder and solder the FV-1 at this stage when everything else is soldered is going to be a pain.
Regards
Mat
Are you getting about 1.65 volts on pins 1,2,3, 27 and 28?
You can test for communication between the FV-1 and the eeprom by probing the SDA and SCK pins with your scope, at startup and when changing programs you should see brief bursts of activity on both pins.
You can try probing the x1 and x2 pins to see if the crystal is working, you should see about a 32KHz signal, this isn't a very good test though because the extra capacitance from the probe could be enough to make it start working or it could load it down and stop it working.
Ok, thanks for the hints, I will test it right away
Quote from: slacker on July 27, 2017, 12:46:17 PM
Are you getting about 1.65 volts on pins 1,2,3, 27 and 28?
pins 27 and 28 are at 1.64v, which seems ok.
pins 1,2,3 are not... pins 1 an2 they are at around 1.6 when I test but as soon as I pinch them, they go down to zero... like if some cap was charging/discahrging when I apply the probe.
pin 3 is around 1.61
And... I discovered something strange. Pin 23 (DVDD) is sometimes at 2.56, sometimes at 3.31. And I observed that when this is at 2.56, pins 27 and 28 go down to 1.26 (seems to be half of it)
If when probing I press hard, pin23 goes to 3.3v. Regulator output is consistently at 3.3.
Maybe I have a soldering issue at pin 23? Can I try to "reflow" the chip easily to ensure all solders are good?
Mat
.
Reflow the FV-1 chip, a common soldering problem here can also be flux residue so use a non-clean flux pen and make sure it is cleaned using a flux solvent. (water based flux cleaner can cause problems).
Try soldering an led to pin5 of the fv-1 then 100R resistor to 3.3v. If the LED is on all the time that can mean the oscillator has not started or the EEprom is empty or not working. So if the LED is lit solid the problem is definitely around the FV-1/EEprom.
Placing an audio signal directly to the output of the FV-1 to test if the output op amp could damage the FV-1, best to place a link between the FV-1 input and output caps (+ cap sides) to correctly test the analogue parts of the circuit. This way gives you DC decoupling to both input and output of the FV-1.
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 27, 2017, 04:38:24 PM
Reflow the FV-1 chip, a common soldering problem here can also be flux residue so use a non-clean flux pen and make sure it is cleaned using a flux solvent. (water based flux cleaner can cause problems).
Try soldering an led to pin5 of the fv-1 then 100R resistor to 3.3v. If the LED is on all the time that can mean the oscillator has not started or the EEprom is empty or not working. So if the LED is lit solid the problem is definitely around the FV-1/EEprom.
Placing an audio signal directly to the output of the FV-1 to test if the output op amp could damage the FV-1, best to place a link between the FV-1 input and output caps (+ cap sides) to correctly test the analogue parts of the circuit. This way gives you DC decoupling to both input and output of the FV-1.
Thanks for the hint. I wll try the LED trick. Regarding audio signal on output, I will take into consideration for future tests... I hope I didn't break it. I just tried once.
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 27, 2017, 04:38:24 PM
Try soldering an led to pin5 of the fv-1 then 100R resistor to 3.3v. If the LED is on all the time that can mean the oscillator has not started or the EEprom is empty or not working. So if the LED is lit solid the problem is definitely around the FV-1/EEprom.
I have reflown the chip, and now DVDD is steady at 3.3, no more up and down. But, I have obseved that now pins 27 and 28 are at 3.3v as well, when they were at 1.65 before... I have doublechecked that there is no solder bridge with pin 26, and I can't find anything.
Any idea about what could be wrong?
On the other side, I have done the LED test, and the LED is on all the time. So clearly there is an issue with the FV-1 or memory.
I will try tomorrow to use the scope and see if the oscillator is working.
It's alive!!!
I'm not sure what I did, but it works now... The other day I just reflown the FV-1, checked voltages and everything was a mess. I cleaned up all flux with some acetone.... and still a voltage mess. I ended up spraying some contact cleaner just to try.... and let it dry.
Today I connected the scope at the SDA pin and I saw a burst of data when changing preset. So I tested again the voltages. Everything fine, both audio input and output of the FV1 at around 1.65v... and when I tested audio, it sounds!
I will monitor in case I see another failure, but I tend to think it was a flux issue... and after cleaning and letting dry it works.
Now, I go back to spincad to start playing a bit.
Quote from: potul on August 01, 2017, 11:50:11 AM
It's alive!!!
I'm not sure what I did, but it works now... The other day I just reflown the FV-1, checked voltages and everything was a mess. I cleaned up all flux with some acetone.... and still a voltage mess. I ended up spraying some contact cleaner just to try.... and let it dry.
Today I connected the scope at the SDA pin and I saw a burst of data when changing preset. So I tested again the voltages. Everything fine, both audio input and output of the FV1 at around 1.65v... and when I tested audio, it sounds!
I will monitor in case I see another failure, but I tend to think it was a flux issue... and after cleaning and letting dry it works.
Good result Potul, flux around the FV-1 and poorly cleaned or dry joints is the main issue, when the clip LED stays on it is very often that the xtal will not start the FV-1 and that can be really often down to flux contamination. Let us know how you get on.
Now, I go back to spincad to start playing a bit.
Hi everyone,
So I'm having some problems installing the SpinCAD designer and hope you guys can help me out with it.
As I understand there are two ways to get the program — from the holycityaudio's github where it requires the elmgen-05.jar file which used to be on Andrew Kilpatrick's site but not anymore. And also directly from Digital Larry's forum, but only after Larry himself approves the registered account.
So I would be really grateful if someone provided me (and everyone else) with the files needed or explained whether I need them in the first place or not.
On my part, when I succeed I'll write a step-by-step guide and upload all necessary files to several sources to make it more easily acceptable since this whole project is based on ideas of open source and bringing new people in.
Best regards,
Steve
Steve,
When did you sign up over at holycityaudio? I just approved a few new accounts that came in over the weekend.
You will have a heck of a time trying to build SpinCAD from Github... I wouldn't recommend doing that unless you have a ton of patience and already know a lot about Java development.
Cheers,
DL
Hi Steve
If you just want to use Spincad you don't need to install sources and libraries. Just use the jar file.
You need all the stuff only if you want to create new blocks.
Enviado desde mi Redmi 4X mediante Tapatalk
Quote from: Steve112 on September 18, 2017, 05:09:20 PM
this whole project is based on ideas of open source and bringing new people in.
Hi Steve, if it is your intention to redistribute the SpinCAD binary, please keep in mind that you need to follow the requirements of GPL version 3.
For a little light reading on the subject, I recommend:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/GNU_General_Public_License
but straight to the source is always best:
https://www.gnu.org/licenses/gpl.html
Thanks,
DL
Hi again,
Thank you for your quick and detailed replies!
Now after my account is approved on holycityaudio forum it is of course very easy to get the latest version of spincad and it seems to be running just fine!
So many thanks to you for your hard work and for helping me.
Nevertheless, it still leaves the question of freely getting that jar file.
I'm just worried that if for instance one day you won't have time to approve newly registered it would be very hard indeed to get spincad to work for rookies like me.
I dont intend on redistributing the program necesserily, but I may suggest several possible ways. Maybe automate the approval process via captcha or someway else (like on bigger forums) or maybe just source it on more than one place (github, or some cloud service)?
On the other hand, if I ever actually redistribute it, then sure, I'll do it only after your approval and following all the GPL requirements needed.
Sorry if I'm being noobish here, I'm just generally concerned.
All the best,
Steve
I hear what you're saying, though I actually choose to limit access to SpinCAD. I want people to come in and make themselves known. Also, I may want to monetize it somewhere down the road. That said, I am in compliance with GPL version 3. :icon_biggrin:
The real power in SpinCAD is in the Builder part where you can define your own blocks. For that you have to work with the source code.
For my forum, I use a plugin that filters out known spammers. This is why there is no Captcha. Previously I'd get 50 signups a day, go thru spammer e-mail lists, 98% positive, huge waste of time. However I still see unusual things happen account wise, so I just need to take a look at things. My forum server did get hacked last year which included some Dept of the Interior investigation. I pay a few hundred per year for security services now. Am I paranoid? :o
Skimmed through the pages and I didn't see any schematics, anyone have them to post in a post Photobucket world? A more specific question on the FV-1, does the chip have a delay setting with time and repeats? I usually see clips with reverb but no delay.
Most likely all the images were swept away in the PhotoBucket "no more free 3rd party hosting" flip of a couple months ago.
I'm not that familiar with the default patches of the FV-1, but it can easily be programmed to deliver delays of up to 1 second (with 32 kHz crystal) and adjustable repeats and delay level. It is also possible to control the frequency response of the delay signal using low pass and high pass filters.
I just got my chip and was thinking of doing a simple circuit using the stock programs (not that adding an EEPROM is more complicated) but I don't have the time to get into the programing right now. I did order another one to play with in the winter though. Yeah, not impressed with Photobucket.
I think there is another project in the forum that does exactly this. Fv1 internal programs only. Try to find it
I found it... this is the one I was referring to
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118048.0 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=118048.0)
That thread was why I got the chip. Seems that to get it to act as a common delay pedal you need to do it in an eeprom. I have nothing against using one, just more work. Program 4 seems to have a delay and a pitch shifter. Controls are pitch, delay and mix. I guess you could do a feedback control around the chip but that is an aditional pot when it would have been more convenient to use one of the three pots
I have not looked too intently but I found a vid of the chip programed as a delay.
Javier I tried to PM you but your mail box is full so I will post the reply here.
Hi Javier,
I will have a look for some of the schematics and BOM as soon as I can, If I remember correctly there is also a rar file in the thread somewhere which should contain all the files so If I can find that link I will let you know.
The switch board has 11 resistors soldered to the board which are SMD and all 2k7.
If you have any other questions go ahead and ask.
regards
Mick
Quote from: printer2 on September 26, 2017, 09:27:47 PM
That thread was why I got the chip. Seems that to get it to act as a common delay pedal you need to do it in an eeprom. I have nothing against using one, just more work. Program 4 seems to have a delay and a pitch shifter. Controls are pitch, delay and mix. I guess you could do a feedback control around the chip but that is an aditional pot when it would have been more convenient to use one of the three pots
That's right, you need to program the EEPROM for a common delay. On the other hand, I can tell you that the big fun of the FV-1 is when you jump into programming and you can fully customize the algorithms.
The project in this thread is really a nice one, and worth the effort. I just finished mine some weeks ago and I'm having fun testing different programs.
On the other hand, you will need some way to program the eeprom. Best way is to get a pickit2 clone, but there are other means as well.
If you are willing to build one, I have some spare PCBs in my parts drawer. I could send you one at part cost+shipping depending on where you are. And I do have some EEPROMs I got for free from Microchip. I can include one already programmed with your choice of software if you want.
Mat
Just a quick reply to everyone asking about the missing pictures and files for this FV-1 project, I've just had a quick look through the thread and most of the downloadable stuff that's needed is all available on pages 13-15 (most of it on page 14) of this BIG thread.
Quote from: potul on September 27, 2017, 12:16:47 PM
Quote from: printer2 on September 26, 2017, 09:27:47 PM
That thread was why I got the chip. Seems that to get it to act as a common delay pedal you need to do it in an eeprom. I have nothing against using one, just more work. Program 4 seems to have a delay and a pitch shifter. Controls are pitch, delay and mix. I guess you could do a feedback control around the chip but that is an aditional pot when it would have been more convenient to use one of the three pots
That's right, you need to program the EEPROM for a common delay. On the other hand, I can tell you that the big fun of the FV-1 is when you jump into programming and you can fully customize the algorithms.
The project in this thread is really a nice one, and worth the effort. I just finished mine some weeks ago and I'm having fun testing different programs.
On the other hand, you will need some way to program the eeprom. Best way is to get a pickit2 clone, but there are other means as well.
If you are willing to build one, I have some spare PCBs in my parts drawer. I could send you one at part cost+shipping depending on where you are. And I do have some EEPROMs I got for free from Microchip. I can include one already programmed with your choice of software if you want.
Mat
Here you go, give this a try, don't worry crack isn't addictive.
How far I have fallen down the rabbit hole. First it started with building a tube amp for a colleague. Then years of the smell of flux and the aroma of a warm tub amp. I have enough tube to outlive me many time over. Heck, just make a cigar box guitar, nothing to them. Years later and piles and piles of sawdust I am starting to get the hang of building guitars. And of course I have enough wood to keep me building for a decade or two. and every once in a while I say to myself, I really should learn how to play the guitar some day.
And now jumping into digital programing? Hey that sounds like fun. Originally I just wanted to make a small lightweight amp to drag around and wanted to add reverb. But the chip has a lot more promise in it that wants to be let out. How could I deny it?
I'll have to look over the thread a little more, I just skimmed through it. I bet my brother has a programmer, he does electronic design for a living. I'll let you know once I get a handle of how deep I want to jump. Thanks.
Good. Welcome to the dsp world!
Quote from: potul on September 28, 2017, 01:29:30 AM
Good. Welcome to the dsp world!
Yes, Welcome to the DSP world ! The goalposts are about to move with a new DSP chip on the horizon though. So lets look forward to when the Dev. board is ready and released for us to play with. 8)
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 27, 2017, 10:00:59 AM
Javier I tried to PM you but your mail box is full so I will post the reply here.
Hi Javier,
I will have a look for some of the schematics and BOM as soon as I can, If I remember correctly there is also a rar file in the thread somewhere which should contain all the files so If I can find that link I will let you know.
The switch board has 11 resistors soldered to the board which are SMD and all 2k7.
If you have any other questions go ahead and ask.
regards
Mick
Hey Mick,
Thanks a lot for your reply. I already emptied my inbox, I should be receiving pms again now.
Great, I think i have all i need to start with: BOM and some extra info on this thread, as well as the resistor's value for the rotary switch pcb. Thanx for that, Mick.
One more thing...as far as i can see, in your project, there are 3 pots for paremeters 1, 2 and 3 of the fv-1 and another pot for program selecting. So, there's no mix knob. I guess that can be easily using another pot and
keeping an all analog dry signal, am i right? The problem would be fitting it in a 1590b enclosure....
Javier
Quote from: jack_stereo on September 30, 2017, 04:51:08 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 27, 2017, 10:00:59 AM
Javier I tried to PM you but your mail box is full so I will post the reply here.
Hi Javier,
I will have a look for some of the schematics and BOM as soon as I can, If I remember correctly there is also a rar file in the thread somewhere which should contain all the files so If I can find that link I will let you know.
The switch board has 11 resistors soldered to the board which are SMD and all 2k7.
If you have any other questions go ahead and ask.
regards
Mick
Hey Mick,
Thanks a lot for your reply. I already emptied my inbox, I should be receiving pms again now.
Great, I think i have all i need to start with: BOM and some extra info on this thread, as well as the resistor's value for the rotary switch pcb. Thanx for that, Mick.
One more thing...as far as i can see, in your project, there are 3 pots for paremeters 1, 2 and 3 of the fv-1 and another pot for program selecting. So, there's no mix knob. I guess that can be easily using another pot and
keeping an all analog dry signal, am i right? The problem would be fitting it in a 1590b enclosure....
Javier
Regarding the external dry mix there isn't because this circuit has the dry mix going through the FV-1, there is no analogue only signal path. Yes you could mod the circuit to add that but it would be a struggle to fit in the 1590B.
I did make another updated version of the FV-1 pedal which has 3 FV-1 pots, the selector switch, the analogue dry mix pot and a dry lift switch for full wet which could be used nicely with a parallel fx loop for wet only. I never released this PCB yet though. It is also 1590B size.
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 30, 2017, 06:19:00 AM
Quote from: jack_stereo on September 30, 2017, 04:51:08 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 27, 2017, 10:00:59 AM
Javier I tried to PM you but your mail box is full so I will post the reply here.
Hi Javier,
I will have a look for some of the schematics and BOM as soon as I can, If I remember correctly there is also a rar file in the thread somewhere which should contain all the files so If I can find that link I will let you know.
The switch board has 11 resistors soldered to the board which are SMD and all 2k7.
If you have any other questions go ahead and ask.
regards
Mick
Hey Mick,
Thanks a lot for your reply. I already emptied my inbox, I should be receiving pms again now.
Great, I think i have all i need to start with: BOM and some extra info on this thread, as well as the resistor's value for the rotary switch pcb. Thanx for that, Mick.
One more thing...as far as i can see, in your project, there are 3 pots for paremeters 1, 2 and 3 of the fv-1 and another pot for program selecting. So, there's no mix knob. I guess that can be easily using another pot and
keeping an all analog dry signal, am i right? The problem would be fitting it in a 1590b enclosure....
Javier
Regarding the external dry mix there isn't because this circuit has the dry mix going through the FV-1, there is no analogue only signal path. Yes you could mod the circuit to add that but it would be a struggle to fit in the 1590B.
I did make another updated version of the FV-1 pedal which has 3 FV-1 pots, the selector switch, the analogue dry mix pot and a dry lift switch for full wet which could be used nicely with a parallel fx loop for wet only. I never released this PCB yet though. It is also 1590B size.
That would be just what i'm looking for...3 fv-1 pots, 1 analog dry/wet mix pot and a program selector switch in a 1590B enclosure (woulndt mind if it was a bigger enclosure though). That dry lift switch for full wet would do just great for me, since i use the fx most of the time in a FX send loop from a mixing desk.
I have a question....If i'm going to be using only 3 programs from the external eeprom,or even just 2, i guess i can use a 3 way toggle switch to select them, am i right? in that case, is the pic12f683 needed at all?
And one more thing i cannot see clearly in the pcb: just at the right of the IC2 there are 3 solder pads (between IC2 and the voltage regulator) what are they for? any letters or numbers can't be seen in my pcb, sorry
Thanks a lot once again, Mick
Javier
Here's another PCB I made for a few projects. It's a bit flexible in how you set it up, but that also means you have to think things through (I'll get to that in a minute).
It 'borrows' heavily from work by David Rolo and Raul Duke.
* analog mix pot
* analog feedback, from Rout back to Rin
* three programs selectable with an on-off-on toggle switch
* small footprint components: I use 1/8W resistors and small ceramic caps
The analog feedback frees up one pot for your patches, but you'll need to feed the output to Rout as well.
I have built a standalone testpedal (1590BB) with it but also incorporated in a bigger all-in-one (gate/HM2/preamp/FV1) pedal which I have used live for over a year.
I did a little trick in that all-in-one: the FV1 board is in a tailsloop, switching the effect off also wires in a second feedback pot (with a bistable relay) so you can have a moderate feedback while soloing, but have lots of feedback and tails at the end of the lick. It has the comparable effect of a dynamic delay, but dynamic delays tend to not work that well with heavily distorted (compressed) signals and this one does :)
(https://s25.postimg.org/mlg8iesnv/skema.png) (https://postimg.org/image/mlg8iesnv/)
(https://s25.postimg.org/9u22c23i3/bestukking.png) (https://postimg.org/image/9u22c23i3/)
(https://s25.postimg.org/zcuep2urv/pcb_values.png) (https://postimg.org/image/zcuep2urv/)
Eagle files and gerbers:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/r9zes64ow6h3ceo/FV-1%20main%20board2%20eagle.zip?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/m1riwrrasexi0jd/FV-1%20main%20board2%20Elecrow.zip?dl=0
https://www.dropbox.com/s/oy53pkmz3u1n93r/FV-1%20main%20board2%20iTead.zip?dl=0
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 28, 2017, 03:50:44 PM
Quote from: potul on September 28, 2017, 01:29:30 AM
Good. Welcome to the dsp world!
Yes, Welcome to the DSP world ! The goalposts are about to move with a new DSP chip on the horizon though. So lets look forward to when the Dev. board is ready and released for us to play with. 8)
Interesting, what's the new chip called?
Woah! I may have to give this a shot! I haven't done a digital pedal before but I do a little bit of similar stuff at work...
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 17, 2014, 03:10:07 PM
SINGLE SIDED PCB LINK
Here is the single sided pcb file, it can be opened using Diptrace and printed at the correct size. You can also use diptrace to edit and make any changes to the pcb that you like to suit your own requirements. (I can give a little info on edits if needed).
BEWARE the schematic and component numbers are not the same as the one in this thread, I haven't drawn out a schematic to match this PCB yet but it isn't hard to trace with a pen and paper, the schematic is nearly the same as the double sided pcb though.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqSVlKZlR5QV9KdDA/view?usp=sharing
Diptrace is free to download.
Has anyone here from the forum built this pedal with this single side version of this pcb?
I would like to know about the construction. If everything went well, if it worked well ...
Quote from: Ashura on October 24, 2017, 09:46:03 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 17, 2014, 03:10:07 PM
SINGLE SIDED PCB LINK
Here is the single sided pcb file, it can be opened using Diptrace and printed at the correct size. You can also use diptrace to edit and make any changes to the pcb that you like to suit your own requirements. (I can give a little info on edits if needed).
BEWARE the schematic and component numbers are not the same as the one in this thread, I haven't drawn out a schematic to match this PCB yet but it isn't hard to trace with a pen and paper, the schematic is nearly the same as the double sided pcb though.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqSVlKZlR5QV9KdDA/view?usp=sharing
Diptrace is free to download.
Has anyone here from the forum built this pedal with this single side version of this pcb?
I would like to know about the construction. If everything went well, if it worked well ...
If you are eching this pcb yourself then should be no problems, if you were to have it fabbed then the holes will need to set to the correct sizes as they are default small. (this of course does not affect making the pcb yourself as you will be drilling all the holes to the correct sizes for each component.
Is there a 2 sided diptrace project available as well? I didn't see it in the thousand pages of this thread....
Quote from: potul on October 25, 2017, 01:56:50 PM
Is there a 2 sided diptrace project available as well? I didn't see it in the thousand pages of this thread....
Yes. On page 16 of this topic (Reply #319). The download address is this:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqUmJzTjBUQVk3NGc/edit
More information about the file, if you have after reading page 16, I believe Ice-9 can give you.
Quote from: Ashura on October 25, 2017, 08:57:17 PM
Quote from: potul on October 25, 2017, 01:56:50 PM
Is there a 2 sided diptrace project available as well? I didn't see it in the thousand pages of this thread....
Yes. On page 16 of this topic (Reply #319). The download address is this:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqUmJzTjBUQVk3NGc/edit
More information about the file, if you have after reading page 16, I believe Ice-9 can give you.
Thank you very much! I didn't spot it. I was thinking I had downloaded all the project documents posted during the years.
Mat
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 25, 2017, 11:20:27 AM
Quote from: Ashura on October 24, 2017, 09:46:03 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 17, 2014, 03:10:07 PM
SINGLE SIDED PCB LINK
Here is the single sided pcb file, it can be opened using Diptrace and printed at the correct size. You can also use diptrace to edit and make any changes to the pcb that you like to suit your own requirements. (I can give a little info on edits if needed).
BEWARE the schematic and component numbers are not the same as the one in this thread, I haven't drawn out a schematic to match this PCB yet but it isn't hard to trace with a pen and paper, the schematic is nearly the same as the double sided pcb though.
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0BxsnlsbxdciqSVlKZlR5QV9KdDA/view?usp=sharing
Diptrace is free to download.
Has anyone here from the forum built this pedal with this single side version of this pcb?
I would like to know about the construction. If everything went well, if it worked well ...
If you are eching this pcb yourself then should be no problems, if you were to have it fabbed then the holes will need to set to the correct sizes as they are default small. (this of course does not affect making the pcb yourself as you will be drilling all the holes to the correct sizes for each component.
Thank you Mick.
I have been comparing the DipTrace projects of the double and single sides PCBs and I have some doubts. Could you please help me understand the following questions (?):
I see that double side PCB and single side PCB do not contain the same components. For example: on the double-side PCB there is a MOSFET indicate in place with the inscription TR1, while on the single-sided PCB I do not see this component. However, on the site I see another inscription that seems to me to be where this component goes: https://www.schurter.com/en/datasheet/4840.2211
Could you please explain to me why the absence of this MOSFET component on the single side PCB?
I see that the single-sided PCB comes with an inscription in which it says "Rev-2". Is this an indication that this would be the second version, improved in any respect compared to the double side PCB?
Ok, The single sided board was a home etching to make sure the effect pedal worked before making a final double sided pcb so is only classed as a pre prototype so to speak, Rev2 on that board referred to , well that it was the second try. There are no documents that go with this board and possibly component numbers differ to the final 2 sided board. You will have to trace out the circuit yourself to make a schematic if you really want to etch your own single sided PCb. Easy enuff job as you have it as a Diptrace file. As for any other info I don't have anything else for that single sided pcb. but it should be the same except for the Mosfet
The MOSFET is just a different polarity protection circuit instead of a more typical diode.
The double sided board was the final project board.
The link you sent was just to a website with a dc jack ????
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 27, 2017, 02:36:15 PM
The link you sent was just to a website with a dc jack ????
Yes. The numbering (4840-2211) inscribed on the single-sided PCB in the part where it is supposed to have a MOSFET like the double-side PCB, led me to find a DC Jack. Is this interpretation correct? In this part of the PCB is a DC Jack?
Sorry for ignorance, but why use a MOSFET instead of a diode in this project?
Quote from: Ashura on October 27, 2017, 02:55:07 PM
Sorry for ignorance, but why use a MOSFET instead of a diode in this project?
In general, a MOSFET will have lower forward voltage drop than a diode, which is probably not important in this circuit since it would regulate 9V down to 3.3V for the FV-1 anyway. I don't know if there are parts of the circuit that operate at 9V - if so, then there might be a benefit to using the MOSFET approach. I use a diode on my own FV-1 board. If a MOSFET and resistor(s) are cheaper than a diode that might be a rationale as well.
Quote from: Digital Larry on October 27, 2017, 03:12:58 PM
Quote from: Ashura on October 27, 2017, 02:55:07 PM
Sorry for ignorance, but why use a MOSFET instead of a diode in this project?
In general, a MOSFET will have lower forward voltage drop than a diode, which is probably not important in this circuit since it would regulate 9V down to 3.3V for the FV-1 anyway. I don't know if there are parts of the circuit that operate at 9V - if so, then there might be a benefit to using the MOSFET approach. I use a diode on my own FV-1 board. If a MOSFET and resistor(s) are cheaper than a diode that might be a rationale as well.
Yes the op amps work at 9v , only the FV-1 chip and eeprom/pic run at 3.3v. The Mosfet has almost zero voltage drop opposed to a standard diode drop of 0.7v (ish).
@ Ashura, yes the single sided board has a solder in place dc jack in that area. If you open the file in diptrace click on the 3d view it may show many of the components in place so it will become more obvious what goes where.
The double sided board is easier to build and set up, my advice would be to buy the pcb from oshpark to build the project, but if you decide to etch your own single sided pcb , be aware that I have no documents other than what you have already downloaded available anymore, (lost off hard drive and deleted from photobucket).
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 27, 2017, 06:34:36 PM
The double sided board is easier to build and set up, my advice would be to buy the pcb from oshpark to build the project, but if you decide to etch your own single sided pcb , be aware that I have no documents other than what you have already downloaded available anymore, (lost off hard drive and deleted from photobucket).
Thank you Mick.
Looking at this double-sided PCB, it seems to me that it could be made on a single face with all the components it currently has. Could you tell me why you preferred to do it double-faced since it could apparently be done on a single face?
Quote from: Ashura on October 29, 2017, 02:38:13 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 27, 2017, 06:34:36 PM
The double sided board is easier to build and set up, my advice would be to buy the pcb from oshpark to build the project, but if you decide to etch your own single sided pcb , be aware that I have no documents other than what you have already downloaded available anymore, (lost off hard drive and deleted from photobucket).
Thank you Mick.
Looking at this double-sided PCB, it seems to me that it could be made on a single face with all the components it currently has. Could you tell me why you preferred to do it double-faced since it could apparently be done on a single face?
It would be possible to get that all one sided with some jiggling around of tracks and maybe a couple of parts placement, Why two sided ? well it is cheaper in time for me to have the boards fabbed than to etch and drill all the holes myself these days, with 2 sided it is also neater as any smd parts like the FV-1 are mounted on the top side of the board where as a single sided board would have the smd components on the bottom. Ground planes also would also require a more rework with if redone as single sided.
If you want to have a go at the conversion, go ahead as having the diptrace file is all that is needed. Let us know how you get on.
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 29, 2017, 04:55:10 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on October 27, 2017, 06:34:36 PM
If you want to have a go at the conversion, go ahead as having the diptrace file is all that is needed. Let us know how you get on.
While reading this topic, I could see that you are very patient and reasonable with the people who talked to you. I see you are a good person. By sharing your work so that others can also have access to what you have and behaving well with people, you disseminate knowledge. I saw you repeatedly encouraging and showing interest in what people were doing about your pedal, in such a way that I saw it as something inspiring!
I like the way your final project presents itself. I would be really happy to follow your suggestion and use one of the boards manufactured by oshpark.com, but I'm enthusiastic with the idea of challenging myself to make a PCB of yours and increase my knowledge in the process. I'll try to turn your final design into a single-sided PCB in order to make the manufacturing process homemade, for those who want to make it easier.
I want to ask you one more question before I propose to such a thing, because I would like to make sure that I am working on the correct file:
Is the final file of your project is in the file named "FV-1 Wingnut rev 1.dip"? What is inside the "wingnut project.rar" file and gives rise to PCBs just like in this image? ▼
(https://s1.postimg.org/28g346josb/IMG_0732.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/28g346josb/)
Quote from: Ashura on November 01, 2017, 09:08:23 AM
I want to ask you one more question before I propose to such a thing, because I would like to make sure that I am working on the correct file:
Is the final file of your project is in the file named "FV-1 Wingnut rev 1.dip"? What is inside the "wingnut project.rar" file and gives rise to PCBs just like in this image? ▼
(https://s1.postimg.org/28g346josb/IMG_0732.jpg) (https://postimg.org/image/28g346josb/)
Hi, The wingnut rar file contains the diptrace file for the two sided pcb that you have posted in the picture. I believe there are two files in the compressed folder both are the same pcb but one of the files has the ground plane removed so that it is easy to view the traces while the other is a complete ready to be made pcb. I'm afraid after my hard drive failure some time ago and photobucket changing policies on posting pictures most of the files I had are lost now. This is a long thread on this project and most of what was originally available is still in the threads but can take some time to find.
I still have plans for a new improved mk2 version which will be a lot better but no time scale on when I ill manage to get it finished.
Quote from: Ice-9 on November 01, 2017, 10:48:37 AM
Hi, The wingnut rar file contains the diptrace file for the two sided pcb that you have posted in the picture. I believe there are two files in the compressed folder both are the same pcb but one of the files has the ground plane removed so that it is easy to view the traces while the other is a complete ready to be made pcb. I'm afraid after my hard drive failure some time ago and photobucket changing policies on posting pictures most of the files I had are lost now. This is a long thread on this project and most of what was originally available is still in the threads but can take some time to find.
I still have plans for a new improved mk2 version which will be a lot better but no time scale on when I ill manage to get it finished.
Yes, there are two files as you describe them.
I have all the files you posted, with the exception of those posted on photobucket.
Yes, I am aware of your intention to make a new version of this pedal. I have read about this here somewhere... from which I can not now remember the exact location. Unfortunately I do not see myself as technically able to help with this, otherwise I would help. Maybe in the future...
Speaking of this version of the file without the grounding plan, I believe that without it (the grounding plan) the pedal will not work, right?
Quote from: Ice-9 on November 01, 2017, 10:48:37 AMI still have plans for a new improved mk2 version which will be a lot better
Just curious, what kind of flaws do you see and wish to have improved?
Quote from: pruttelherrie on November 01, 2017, 02:04:25 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on November 01, 2017, 10:48:37 AMI still have plans for a new improved mk2 version which will be a lot better
Just curious, what kind of flaws do you see and wish to have improved?
Not flaws as such but adding a fully analogue dry path, using both outputs for stereo, maybe more EEproms, int/ext fx switch,. better analogue circuitry instead of just buffer in/out. A good start to ponder there.
I know a couple of others are planning on an FV-1 design which might or might not have similar ideas or go even further, what I don't know yet is if these other peoples' ideas will be posted as diy or are commercial builds.
Quote from: Ashura on November 01, 2017, 11:47:02 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on November 01, 2017, 10:48:37 AM
Hi, The wingnut rar file contains the diptrace file for the two sided pcb that you have posted in the picture. I believe there are two files in the compressed folder both are the same pcb but one of the files has the ground plane removed so that it is easy to view the traces while the other is a complete ready to be made pcb. I'm afraid after my hard drive failure some time ago and photobucket changing policies on posting pictures most of the files I had are lost now. This is a long thread on this project and most of what was originally available is still in the threads but can take some time to find.
I still have plans for a new improved mk2 version which will be a lot better but no time scale on when I ill manage to get it finished.
Speaking of this version of the file without the grounding plan, I believe that without it (the grounding plan) the pedal will not work, right?
Of course, it is only so you can see the trace easier when editing the files. The grounds are all still connected in the diptrace program, just the ground plane has not been placed, if you make the board without the ground plane, well like you said "it won't work".
Mick, maybe you missed this DipTrace option but if you open the PCB and click on the 'Objects' tab on the right there are a set of tick boxes including one for Copper Pours. If you untick this it hides the copper pours i.e. your ground plane will disappear so you can easily see all your tracks. No need to keep two versions of the pcb file :)
Phil.
Hi Phil, the two files were uploaded to make it easier for non Diptrace users to see the traces, I Think :icon_wink: either that or back when the PCB was created I might not have known about the show/hide options. Lol
Great tip 8)
hello
firstly, thanks so much for this project! have spent a long while poring over this thread. i have some specific FV-1 effects i'm keen to try and recreate and put my own touches on.
got some PCBs from osh park, have done some SMD practice, and just got the FV-1 and pickit. i don't have the little adapter to program surface mount ICs with the pickit though, it's going to take a month to arrive. so i was thinking of making a first build with a 3way switch instead of the 8way using the PIC. not sure if anyone's done this, or of the switch wiring - is it SP3T on/on/on, using the 4 holes under IC4? i can't read the holes from the schematic, and might try to puzzle them out with a multimeter.
also the pots, i've seen 25k and 50k on various posts and BOMs in the thread, will either work?
i think i have my head around the rest of it, just need to put in a quick parts order.
many thanks for any assistance! really looking forward to getting this going.
Quote from: oip on November 15, 2017, 01:05:30 AM
also the pots, i've seen 25k and 50k on various posts and BOMs in the thread, will either work?
Hi oip.
According to a post on page 13, reply #252 of Ice-9, all pots are 50k.
See the parts list posted by Ice-9 at that reply #252 in page 13.
However, in the schematic available in the same response there is indication of potentiometers of 25k. Hey Mick, any light? :icon_neutral: :icon_question:
I used 50k linear in my build. Worked well. I think both should work.
many thanks, i guess i will try 50k and see how it goes. getting the long leg PCB mount pots isn't so easy so it might just be regular pots anyway.
haven't tried puzzling out the switch yet, i might try and program a PIC with the soldering to pins method someone mentioned in this thread.
Quote from: oip on November 20, 2017, 05:40:12 PM
many thanks, i guess i will try 50k and see how it goes. getting the long leg PCB mount pots isn't so easy so it might just be regular pots anyway.
haven't tried puzzling out the switch yet, i might try and program a PIC with the soldering to pins method someone mentioned in this thread.
All the pots can be anything from 10k to 100k, as long as they are linear it will make no difference. Yes, you could program the pic just by soldering the wires to the chip from the pickit2 programmer, alternatively for 3 effects you could use an on/off/on toggle switch with a couple of resistors to get three position logic without the pic.
many thanks for clarifying, that's great as i'm sure i have a stash of linear pots around.
been thinking about the PIC and i might also try etching a small pseudo adapter board with pins, and try to stick the contacts mechanically by 'clamping' the chip down onto the board for programming.
just waiting on jacks and the PIC, as of tomorrow-ish i should have all the parts so will give it all a try over the weekend
New to this thread. Have had no luck finding the main pcb at OSHPark - searched on FV-1, Ice-9, paged thru hundreds of projects.
Is it still available?
Thanks
Quote from: johno9 on December 19, 2017, 07:12:50 PM
New to this thread. Have had no luck finding the main pcb at OSHPark - searched on FV-1, Ice-9, paged thru hundreds of projects.
Is it still available?
Thanks
https://oshpark.com/profiles/Ice-9
Greetings!
Enviado desde mi SM-G955F mediante Tapatalk
Many thanks Rick
Quote from: johno9 on December 19, 2017, 07:12:50 PM
New to this thread. Have had no luck finding the main pcb at OSHPark - searched on FV-1, Ice-9, paged thru hundreds of projects.
Is it still available?
Thanks
Where are you from? I have some spare pcbs I will not use. I can send you one or two. If you are in Europe it might be faster than OSHPark.
I also have 3 pcbs left over. I'm living in germany so you could just drop me a note if you want any, we'll get rest sorted for sure.
Hey guys,
I'm trying to get into fv-1s but I ve got confused..
How to upload coded in SpinCad patches to the fv-s? The oryginal way is to use the spin dev board, right?
Is there any other way?
Cheers,
J
Quote from: Gumer on January 18, 2018, 05:53:46 AM
Hey guys,
I'm trying to get into fv-1s but I ve got confused..
How to upload coded in SpinCad patches to the fv-s? The oryginal way is to use the spin dev board, right?
Is there any other way?
Cheers,
J
You need to compile it into an hex file, and then flash it to the memory using your programmer of preference. In my case I use a Pickit2 clone for this.
I think there is a page with some details early in the thread... let me try to find it.
Quote from: potul on January 18, 2018, 08:24:31 AM
Quote from: Gumer on January 18, 2018, 05:53:46 AM
Hey guys,
I'm trying to get into fv-1s but I ve got confused..
How to upload coded in SpinCad patches to the fv-s? The oryginal way is to use the spin dev board, right?
Is there any other way?
Cheers,
J
You need to compile it into an hex file, and then flash it to the memory using your programmer of preference. In my case I use a Pickit2 clone for this.
I think there is a page with some details early in the thread... let me try to find it.
It's in page 5
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=104291.80 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=104291.80)
I see PCbs for this are being sold by MEK in Germany
http://uk-electronic.de/onlineshop/product_info.php?products_id=4499
Quote from: cliffsp8 on March 18, 2018, 05:10:53 PM
I see PCbs for this are being sold by MEK in Germany
http://uk-electronic.de/onlineshop/product_info.php?products_id=4499
I was never asked if they could sell the PCB but at least they have give credit on the MEK page and linked back to here.
I think I should release a newer version now with some more options as a lot of the info for the original disappeared when I lost photobucket links. I have been thinking about a dual tracker anyway so maybe soon I will look at this as a new projects and make PCB's available.
Didn't you start another thread to discuss about new features of the new version?
Mat
Quote from: potul on April 09, 2018, 05:14:42 AM
Didn't you start another thread to discuss about new features of the new version?
Mat
Yes, that was last year and there didn't seem much uptake on the idea and I also ended up too busy at work so shelved it for a while. This time I'm just thinking of some small updates to improve and add to the basic design. I would also make the PCB's available if needed.
Does anyone have the latest version of SpinCAD that they could share? I tried registering on the Holy City Audio forum, but have not had my account activated.
I have the following question: since the pedal doesn't have a dedicated Mix control how are the dry and wet signals mixed and how do you set their levels (I guess in software)?
Quote from: MetalGuy on April 12, 2018, 03:39:34 AM
I have the following question: since the pedal doesn't have a dedicated Mix control how are the dry and wet signals mixed and how do you set their levels (I guess in software)?
Yes, software. If you want a hardware mix control you would need to modify the PCB.
Mat
Quote from: MetalGuy on April 12, 2018, 03:39:34 AM
I have the following question: since the pedal doesn't have a dedicated Mix control how are the dry and wet signals mixed and how do you set their levels (I guess in software)?
Yes, the present design mixes the dry signal in the DSP, that is one of the changes I will be changing in the update circuit which will give external dry /wet mix.
Ok, thanks. So is it an easy tweak like change this and that parameter in an effect (an .spn file?) or it's more complicated?
Quote from: MetalGuy on April 12, 2018, 07:42:00 AM
Ok, thanks. So is it an easy tweak like change this and that parameter in an effect (an .spn file?) or it's more complicated?
That would depend on what .spn file you make or use, all the ones with the original project on this page have a mix control already but if you make your own programs then it would be up to you what you want to use the 3 FV-1 pots for and if one is used as a dry/wet mix or not.Changing the hardware to add a dry/wet mix that keeps the analogue dry outside the FV-1 will free up a pot so that all 3 can be used for effects parameters.
I'm asking because I would like to program the EPROM with effects of my choice which are already available - I'm not going to make any.
For example if I want to use the effects from the SpinSemi 16_24 project in this forum project/pedal I'll need some mixing because currently the FV-1 outputs the wet signal only.
Quote from: MetalGuy on April 12, 2018, 03:17:09 PM
I'm asking because I would like to program the EPROM with effects of my choice which are already available - I'm not going to make any.
For example if I want to use the effects from the SpinSemi 16_24 project in this forum project/pedal I'll need some mixing because currently the FV-1 outputs the wet signal only.
Correct in a way, the FV-1 can output both wet and dry in this project pedal, it is the software program that dictates what the output will be. IIRC the 16_24 programs on the Spin site are wet only and also have no user control for any parameters anyway. So if you want to use ANY program that has wet only in the code then you will need to use an external dry mix in the circuit.
Quote...it is the software program that dictates what the output will be.
Let's be more specific. Which line/s in the spn file exactly determine that? Let's take for example the Hall effect. Is this the section below the ";now combine initial sound with reverb out to DACs:" or else?
;Hall program for A16_24 progam set.
;variables written as byte values to:
;reg0 = predelay (0-127)
;reg1 = RT (0-127)
;reg2 = damping (0-127)
mem pdel 3276
mem tdel 7000
mem ap1 273
mem ap2 436
mem ap3 767
mem ap4 991
mem tap1 245
mem tap2 458
mem lap1a 1078
mem lap1b 1287
mem lap1c 2241
mem d1 2336
mem lap2a 968
mem lap2b 1367
mem lap2c 2067
mem d2 2391
;declare registers:
equ del reg0
equ krt reg1
equ kd reg2
equ pout reg3
equ apout reg4
equ temp reg5
;read-first registers:
equ lp1 reg20
equ lp2 reg21
equ hp1 reg22
equ hp2 reg23
equ tlp reg24
;mandatory first 6 lines:
or %00000000_00000000_00000000
wrax reg0,0
or %01000000_00000000_00000000
wrax reg1,0
or %00100000_00000000_00000000
wrax reg2,0
;program:
;first clear read-first registers:
skp run,endclr
wrax lp1,0
wrax lp2,0
wrax hp1,0
wrax hp2,0
wrax tlp,0
endclr:
;calculate an address pointer for predelay:
rdax del,0.1 ;limit to 1/10th of space
wrax addr_ptr,0
;feed inputs to predelay:
rdax adcl,0.25
rdax adcr,0.25 ;leave headroom
wra pdel,0 ;write to predelay
;read predelay output and write to tdel input:
rmpa 1
wra tdel,1 ;pass through
;now do reverb:
rda ap1#,0.5
wrap ap1,-0.5
rda ap2#,0.5
wrap ap2,-0.5
rda ap3#,0.5
wrap ap3,-0.5
rda ap4#,0.5
wrap ap4,-0.5
wrax apout,0
rda d2#,1 ;read last delay output
mulx krt ;scale by Krt
rdax apout,1 ;read apout
rda lap1a#,0.5 ;do loop all passes
wrap lap1a,-0.5
rda lap1b#,-0.5
wrap lap1b,0.5
rda lap1c#,0.5
wrap lap1c,-0.5
rdfx hp1,0.02 ;high pass filter (fixed)
wrhx hp1,-0.5
wrax temp,-1 ;write to temp (for shelving LP)
rdfx lp1,0.5 ;do the LP as a HP
wrhx lp1,-1
mulx kd ;kd is a shelf (neg number)
rdax temp,1 ;add filter input
wra d1,0 ;write to next delay input
rda d1#,-1
mulx krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap2a#,0.5
wrap lap2a,-0.5
rda lap2b#,0.5
wrap lap2b,-0.5
rda lap2c#,-0.5
wrap lap2c,0.5
rdfx hp2,0.02
wrhx hp2,-0.5
wrax temp,-1
rdfx lp2,0.5
wrhx lp2,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1
wra d2,0
;do all passes within tdel, and filter tdel input:
rda tdel+100,1
rda tap1#,0.5
wrap tap1,-0.5
wrax temp,1
rdfx tlp,0.1
wrhx tlp,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1
wra tdel+101,0
rda tdel+1000,1
rda tap2#,0.5
wrap tap2,-0.5
wra tdel+1001,0
;now combine initial sound with reverb out to DACs:
rda tdel+2701,0.5
rda tdel+2256,0.8
rda tdel+3409,0.8
rda tdel+4100,0.7
rda d1,1.5
wrax dacl,0
rda tdel+2800,0.5
rda tdel+2256,0.6
rda tdel+3047,0.8
rda tdel+4100,0.9
rda d2,1.5
wrax dacr,0
;finally, put 'air' in lap(x)c elements:
skp run,1
wlds sin0,20,100
cho rda,sin0,sin|reg|compc,lap1c+100
cho rda,sin0,sin,lap1c+101
wra lap1c+200,0
cho rda,sin0,cos|reg|compc,lap2c+100
cho rda,sin0,cos,lap2c+101
wra lap2c+200,0
Those programs for the micro processor based project on the spin site differ and would need some edits to work correctly with any other Fv-1 project that does not use the specific microcontroller and code in that Spin website circuit. There is no real time control of the parameters in that example, all the parameters are set in the microcontroller code and poked into the FV-1 program.
Look at the lines in the FV-1 code and the corresponding code for the microcontroller for how that works. The area you need to lok at in the code example you have posted are these.
;reg0 = predelay (0-127)
;reg1 = RT (0-127)
;reg2 = damping (0-127)
;mandatory first 6 lines:
or %00000000_00000000_00000000
wrax reg0,0
or %01000000_00000000_00000000
wrax reg1,0
or %00100000_00000000_00000000
wrax reg2,0
Obviosly this program has no dry signal so you would have to add it in the code or add a seperate dry circuit mix to your own PCB. I have seen you have managed to get your microprocessor programmed now and for that project you should use the Spinsemi website documents as the schematic for that pedal is all there IIRC.
If on the other hand you want to use manual control for the parameters and no microprocessor you will need to edit the program to replace the code around reg0, reg1, reg2 and the mandatory lines to use the pots instead. NOTE- All three parameters are for effects settings so you would still need a seperate dry mix to keep all 3 other parameters.
The A16_24 program set is not really suitable for this forum project pedal without editing the code to suit.
I hope I understood correctly what you have asked. :)
Thanks for your answers.
Since I don't want to dive too deep into changing code let's take a "standalone" effect from the 3k project for example:
;Hall.
;Pot0 = predelay 0-100ms.
;Pot1 = reverb time
;Pot2 = damping
mem pdel 3277 ;100ms predelay space
mem idel 8000 ;initial sound space
mem iap0 31
mem iap1 47
mem iap2 73
mem iap3 171
mem iap4 196
mem iap5 371
mem iap6 496 ;thickening all passes imbeded in intial delay
mem ap1 234
mem ap2 356
mem ap3 962
mem ap4 1263 ;reverb loop input all passes
mem lap1a 1921
mem lap1b 2645
mem d1 3534
mem lap2a 2294
mem lap2b 2767
mem d2 3745 ;loop constants
;write-first registers:
equ kirt reg0 ;coefficint to scale initial sound
equ krt reg1 ;coefficient to affect RT of loop
equ apout reg2 ;output of loop input all passes
equ kd reg3 ;damping coefficient (for shelving)
equ temp reg4 ;temp register for filter routines
equ gain reg5 ;adjust gain with RT
;read-first registers:
equ lf1 reg20 ;reverb loop filter 1
equ lf2 reg21 ;reverb loop filter 2
equ hf1 reg22 ;loop high pass 1 (fixed)
equ hf2 reg23 ;loop high pass 2 (fixed)
equ lfin2 reg25 ;LPF for imbedding in intial delay
equ lf reg26 ;input low pass (shelving with kd)
;clear read-first registers, setup lfo:
skp run,endclr
wrax lf1,0
wrax lf2,0
wrax hf1,0
wrax hf2,0
wrax lfin2,0
wlds sin0,20,100
endclr:
;initial sound tap positions (30.5uS/location, 100=3.05mS):
equ ld1 2074 ;first tap, left
equ rd1 2174 ;first tap, right
equ ld2 3556 ;and so on...
equ rd2 3962
equ ld3 3345
equ rd3 3121
equ ld4 3656
equ rd4 3453
equ ld5 5121
equ rd5 5624
equ ld6 6579
equ rd6 7940
;prepare predelay pot:
rdax pot0,0.1 ;to 1/10th total delay (100ms)
and %01111110_00000000_00000000
wrax addr_ptr,0 ;write to memory pointer
;prepare decay pot:
rdax pot1,0.97 ;get pot, limit to less than infinite
wrax krt,1 ;write loop decay time
sof 0.4,0.6 ;scale to 0.6 to 1.0
wrax kirt,0 ;write impulse filter gains
sof -1,0.99 ;scale to decrease gain with RT
wrax gain,0 ;write gain factor
;prepare damping pot:
rdax pot2,-1
wrax kd,0 ;increases shelf to -1 (infinite loss)
;do inputs to predelay:
rdax adcl,0.5
rdax adcr,0.5 ;get inputs
mulx gain ;give greater gain to short RT
wra pdel,0
;read predelay and write initial response delay:
rmpa 1
rda iap0#,0.5
wrap iap0,-0.5 ;complicate input to initial delay
wrax temp,1
rdfx lf,0.4
wrhx lf,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1 ;low pass fiter entire input
wra idel,0 ;write initial sound delay
;complicate initial sound:
rda idel+500,1
rda iap1#,0.5
wrap iap1,-0.5
wra idel+500,0
rda idel+1000,1
rda iap2#,0.5
wrap iap2,-0.5
wra idel+1000,0
rda idel+1500,1
rda iap3#,0.5
wrap iap3,-0.5
wra idel+1500,0
rda idel+2000,1
rda iap4#,0.5
wrap iap4,-0.5
wra idel+2000,0
rda idel+2500,1
rda iap5#,0.5
wrap iap5,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin2,0.3
wrhx lfin2,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input (shelving LPF)
wra idel+2500,0
rda idel+3000,1
rda iap6#,0.5
wrap iap6,-0.5
wra idel+3000,0
;do reverb input all passes:
rda idel,1
rda ap1#,0.5
wrap ap1,-0.5
rda ap2#,0.5
wrap ap2,-0.5
rda ap3#,0.5
wrap ap3,-0.5
rda ap4#,0.5
wrap ap4,-0.5
wrax apout,0
;do reverb loop and sum all outputs:
rda d2#,1
mulx krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap1a#,0.5
wrap lap1a,-0.5
rda lap1b#,0.5
wrap lap1b,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lf1,0.4
wrhx lf1,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input (shelving LPF)
rdfx hf1,0.005
wrhx hf1,-0.5 ;roll out lows in loop
wra d1,1.99
rda idel+ld6,-0.5
mulx kirt
rda idel+ld5,0.7
mulx kirt
rda idel+ld4,0.6
mulx kirt
rda idel+ld3,0.5
mulx kirt
rda idel+ld2,0.6
rda idel+ld1,-0.6
wrax dacl,0
rda d1#,1
mulx krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap2a#,0.5
wrap lap2a,-0.5
rda lap2b#,0.5
wrap lap2b,-0.5
wrax temp,1
rdfx lf2,0.4
wrhx lf2,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1
rdfx hf2,0.005
wrhx hf2,-0.5
wra d2,1.99
rda idel+rd6,0.6
mulx kirt
rda idel+rd5,-0.5
mulx kirt
rda idel+rd4,0.6
mulx kirt
rda idel+rd3,0.5
mulx kirt
rda idel+rd2,-0.6
rda idel+rd1,0.5
wrax dacr,0
;do delay smoothing:
cho rda,sin0,sin|reg|compc,d1+100
cho rda,sin0,sin,d1+101
wra d1+200,0
cho rda,sin0,cos|reg|compc,d1+100
cho rda,sin0,cos,d1+101
wra d1+200,0
Which parameters are to be changed in order to get different levels of mix (no external pot for Mix)?
There is no magic formula you can use for all cases. The issue is, you need a POT to control the mix, and the code is already using all available pots. You would need to sacrify some control, so it's not only adding some parameter tweaking, but you need to decide what control to sacrify and how.
A general structre for a DRY MIX coulde be:
START:
; Read in left
ldax ADCL
; DO YOUR STUFF HERE AND STORE RESULT TO REG1
wrax REG1,0
ldax ADCL ;Read dry signal
mulx POT0 ;multiply by POT0
rdax REG1,1.0 ;add WET signal
wrax DACL,0 ;write to DAC
POT0 controls the amount of DRY signal. In this case this is not a wet/dry control, but a DRY volume. WET is always at max. If you need a WET/DRY pan it can easily be done as well.
As Potul said above, the problem you have with that program and many others is that they are written to use all 3 pots for effect parameters and wet only, the code is likely around 127 ticks long leaving no space to add any more code. So with this your only choice is to remove something from the code and alter the rest to add the dry signal.
I will have a look at this and see if I make a few edits so that it is will work with project pedal.
The main reason I'm asking all these questions is because I would like to make my own combination of effects that I would normally use or any combination that would like. It looks like adding a dedicated Mix control to the next revision would be a better idea.
Quote from: MetalGuy on April 13, 2018, 11:32:43 AM
The main reason I'm asking all these questions is because I would like to make my own combination of effects that I would normally use or any combination that would like. It looks like adding a dedicated Mix control to the next revision would be a better idea.
Yes adding a hardware dry/wet mix part to the circuit is the best way to do this without having to alter effects that are designed to have it that way,
Here is the code from the Hall 3k which I modified to work with the internal FV-1 dry mix, the pre delay is set at 100ms. You can open this and the original 3k hall reverb and compare the two to see how the dry has been added NOTE other alterations have been made but you can see the dry / wet mix changes easily.
;Hall Reverb Program
;from 3k Hall
;Mick Taylor 09/01/2013 Rev 1.
;pot0 = reverb level
;pot1 = reverb time
;pot2 = reverb damping
mem predel 3277 ;100ms
mem idel 8000 ;initial sound space 244ms
mem iap0 31
mem iap1 47
mem iap2 73
mem iap3 171
mem iap4 196
mem iap5 371
mem iap6 496 ;thickening all passes imbeded in intial delay
mem ap1 234 ;7.7ms
mem ap2 356 ;11.7ms
mem ap3 962 ;31.6ms
mem ap4 1263 ;reverb loop input all passes
mem lap1a 1921 ;63ms
mem lap1b 2645 ;86.7ms
mem d1 3534 ;115.8ms
mem lap2a 2294 ;75.2ms
mem lap2b 2767 ;90.7ms
mem d2 3745 ;loop constants 122.8ms
;write-first registers:
equ dry reg0
equ rev_in reg2
equ kirt reg3 ;coefficint to scale initial sound
equ krt reg4 ;coefficient to affect RT of loop
equ apout reg5 ;output of loop input all passes
equ kd reg6 ;damping coefficient (for shelving)
equ temp reg7 ;temp register for filter routines
equ gain reg8 ;adjust gain with RT
equ revout reg10
;read-first registers:
equ lf1 reg20 ;reverb loop filter 1
equ lf2 reg21 ;reverb loop filter 2
equ hf1 reg22 ;loop high pass 1 (fixed)
equ hf2 reg23 ;loop high pass 2 (fixed)
equ lfin1 reg24
equ lfin2 reg25 ;LPF for imbedding in intial delay
equ lf reg26 ;input low pass (shelving with kd)
;clear read-first registers, setup lfo:
skp run,endclr
wrax lf1,0
wrax lf2,0
wrax hf1,0
wrax hf2,0
wrax lfin1,0
wrax lfin2,0
wlds sin0,20,100
endclr:
;initial sound tap positions (30.5uS/location, 100=3.05mS):
equ ld1 2074 ;first tap, left
equ rd1 2174 ;first tap, right
equ ld2 3556 ;and so on...
equ rd2 3962
equ ld3 3345
equ rd3 3121
equ ld4 3656
equ rd4 3453
equ ld5 5121
equ rd5 5624
equ ld6 6579
equ rd6 7940
;prepare decay pot:
rdax pot1,0.97 ;get pot, limit to less than infinite
wrax krt,1 ;write loop decay time
sof 0.4,0.6 ;scale to 0.6 to 1.0
wrax kirt,0 ;write impulse filter gains
sof -1,0.99 ;scale to decrease gain with RT
wrax gain,0 ;write gain factor
;prepare damping pot:
rdax pot2,-1
wrax kd,0 ;increases shelf to -1 (infinite loss)
;prepare predelay time: Added to check if addr_ptr is beng lost
rdax 0.99,0.1 ;to 1/10th total delay (100ms) mem = 3277 locations 0.97 to ensure we can't flow past end
wrax addr_ptr,0 ;write to memory pointer
;-------------do inputs to predelay:-------------------
rdax adcl,0.5
rdax adcr,0.5 ;get inputs sum & divide by 2
wrax dry,1 ;22/11/2015 write dry input signal to dry register and keep in ACC:
mulx gain ;Acc=Acc*[reg] give greater gain to short RT See code above for adjusting this 23-11-2015(Steve)
;*********************100mS predelay routine added here
wra predel,0 ;25/11/2015 write gain adjusted dry to head of delay, clear ACC(Mick).
rmpa 1 ; must use current [addr_ptr]: ACC=ACC+[addr_ptr]*k1 (k1=1 here)
wrax rev_in,0 ;22/11/2015 write gain adjusted dry input to reverb in register and clear ACC: Register 1
;read predelay and write initial response delay:
rdax rev_in,0.5
rda iap0#,0.5
wrap iap0,-0.5 ;complicate input to initial delay
wrax temp,1
rdfx lf,0.4
wrhx lf,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1 ;low pass fiter entire input
wra idel,0 ;write initial sound delay
;complicate initial sound:
rda idel+500,1
rda iap1#,0.5
wrap iap1,-0.5
wra idel+500,0
rda idel+1000,1
rda iap2#,0.5
wrap iap2,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin1,0.2 ;0.2 = appx 1.2kHz
wrhx lfin1,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd
rdax temp,1
wra idel+1000,0
rda idel+1500,1
rda iap3#,0.5
wrap iap3,-0.5
wra idel+1500,0
rda idel+2000,1
rda iap4#,0.5
wrap iap4,-0.5
wra idel+2000,0
rda idel+2500,1
rda iap5#,0.5
wrap iap5,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin2,0.3
wrhx lfin2,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input (shelving LPF)
wra idel+2500,0
rda idel+3000,1
rda iap6#,0.5
wrap iap6,-0.5
wra idel+3000,0
;do reverb input all passes:
rda idel,0.9
rda ap1#,0.5
wrap ap1,-0.5
rda ap2#,0.5
wrap ap2,-0.5
rda ap3#,0.5
wrap ap3,-0.5
rda ap4#,0.5
wrap ap4,-0.5
wrax apout,0
;do reverb loop and sum all outputs:
rda d2#,1
mulx krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap1a#,0.5
wrap lap1a,-0.5
rda lap1b#,0.5
wrap lap1b,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lf1,0.4
wrhx lf1,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input (shelving LPF)
rdfx hf1,0.005
wrhx hf1,-0.5 ;roll out lows in loop
wra d1,0
rda d1#,1
mulx krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap2a#,0.5
wrap lap2a,-0.5
rda lap2b#,0.5
wrap lap2b,-0.5
wrax temp,1
rdfx lf2,0.4
wrhx lf2,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1
rdfx hf2,0.005
wrhx hf2,-0.5
wra d2,1.99
rda d1,1.99
mulx pot0
mulx pot0
wrax revout,0
;do delay smoothing:
cho rda,sin0,sin|reg|compc,d1+100
cho rda,sin0,sin,d1+101
wra d1+200,0
cho rda,sin0,cos|reg|compc,d1+100
cho rda,sin0,cos,d1+101
wra d1+200,0
;now combine to output
rdax dry,1
rdax revout,1
wrax dacl,0
Thanks for the example.
Initially I thought that mix in software was achieved in a different way but after your comments I realized that it has to be done via one of the pots.
Looking at the current version of the PCB it looks like it will be possible to add a mix pot (like a 9mm ALPHA for example) center to the 4 pots.
Are there any alternative EPROM hex files that include a delay (up to 1 sec if possible) and/or a delay/reverb with delay mix and reverb level respectively or a library of spn files with the same parameter controls as those included in the current project hex file so one can build their own combination of effects?
Nothing already available that I'm aware as an hex file.
But building a custom hex file is not complicated if you have the spn files. I have a good collection of files in my hard drive (including the ones in the hex of the project), because I built my pedal and haven't decided yet on what to put inside.
If you want I can help you here. If you tell me what effect you are interested in I can fine tune to code if needed and build the hex file.
PS: I don't remember what's the delay limit in the FV1, but I think it's not going up to 1s.
Quote from: MetalGuy on April 20, 2018, 05:25:16 AM
Are there any alternative EPROM hex files that include a delay (up to 1 sec if possible) and/or a delay/reverb with delay mix and reverb level respectively or a library of spn files with the same parameter controls as those included in the current project hex file so one can build their own combination of effects?
The Fv-1 can do up to 1second delay using its standard crystal, can you tell me in more detail what you want, maybe I or Potul can post some code that will do what you want but you nee to explain bit more detail of parameters and control.
I can build my own hex files with SpinAsm but since you're offering help I'm interested (without adding a separate Mix control for now) in having a regular Delay (Time/Repeat/Mix), Delay/Reverb (Time/Repeat/Rvb level) and maybe other types of delays that you would suggest. From the current list of effects I can part with the Wah, Phaser and Octaver (in that order).
Other than that it would be nice to have a library with effects that we can mix at will in a hex file.
Quote from: MetalGuy on April 20, 2018, 11:26:53 AM
I can build my own hex files with SpinAsm but since you're offering help I'm interested (without adding a separate Mix control for now) in having a regular Delay (Time/Repeat/Mix), Delay/Reverb (Time/Repeat/Rvb level) and maybe other types of delays that you would suggest. From the current list of effects I can part with the Wah, Phaser and Octaver (in that order).
Other than that it would be nice to have a library with effects that we can mix at will in a hex file.
Lol, I was only offering help if you couldn't do it yourself, I don't have a lot of time on my hands at the moments, so if you know what your doing then jus go ahead 8)
I will see if I can dig out a delay and a reverb/delay with the controls you suggest in the mean time.
I don't know if I downoladed an old revision of the PCB but it looks like one of the PIC programming pins was connected to the wrong connector pin.
I had some trouble programming the PIC12F615 (in circuit) which MPLAB was insisting was a 4.5-5.5V part and was giving me voltage error. The Pickit2 software also warned that the part may not erase and/or record properly but at the end it did the job (after connecting to pin 4 - MCLR).
(https://s14.postimg.cc/jv4a1dipp/PICprogpins.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/jv4a1dipp/)
The pins are correct and are not for programming the pic, it's a long thread but the reason for the pins under the pic are documented somewhere.
The pic chip is supposed to be programmed BEFORE soldering, where as the EEPROM can be programmed in circuit.
Quote from: MetalGuy on April 20, 2018, 11:26:53 AM
I can build my own hex files with SpinAsm but since you're offering help I'm interested (without adding a separate Mix control for now) in having a regular Delay (Time/Repeat/Mix), Delay/Reverb (Time/Repeat/Rvb level) and maybe other types of delays that you would suggest. From the current list of effects I can part with the Wah, Phaser and Octaver (in that order).
Other than that it would be nice to have a library with effects that we can mix at will in a hex file.
Here you have some patches from my repository...
Simple delay, taken from the spinsemi forum. Pots could be swapped if you don't like the layout, just change the POTx everywhere.
; Guitar Echo
; HK July 2009
; version 2.0
;
; mono in mono out
; pot0 = feedback amount (from no feedback = slap back to infinite feedback)
; pot1 = delay time (50 ms to 1 second with 32 kHz x-tal)
; pot2 = dry - wet mix
;
; only 20 thicks
;declare memory spaces:
mem del 32767
;declare register equates:
equ dout reg0
equ kfbk reg1
equ dry_in reg2
;get feedback value from pot0:
wrax kfbk,0
rdax pot0,1
wrax kfbk,0
;get address pointer from pot1:
rdax pot1,1
and %01111110_00000000_00000000 ;don't make jumps too small
sof 61/64,3/64 ;50 ms to 1 second
wrax addr_ptr,0
;get output from delay:
rmpa 1
wrax dout,0
;put input signals into delay, allowing for feedback:
rdax dout,1
mulx kfbk
rdax adcl,1
wrax dry_in, 1
wra del,0
; mix dry and wet using pot2
rdax dout,1
rdax dry_in,-1
mulx pot2
rdax dry_in,1
;form mono output:
wrax dacl,0
;from http://www.spinsemi.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=124
Another simple delay, made using SPINCAD:
; Pot 0: Delay time 50 msec - 950 msec
; Pot 1: Feedback level
; Pot 2: Delay level
; Left in, left out
;
; ----------------------------
;------ Input
;------ Pot 0
;------ Smoother
RDAX POT0,1.0000000000
RDFX REG0,0.0009173407
WRAX REG0,0.0000000000
;------ Feedback Output
;------ Pot 2
;------ Pot 1
;------ Mixer 2:1
RDAX ADCL,1.0000000000
WRAX REG2,0.0000000000
RDAX REG1,1.0000000000
MULX POT1
RDAX REG2,1.0000000000
WRAX REG2,0.0000000000
;------ LPF 1P
RDAX REG2,1.0000000000
RDFX REG4,0.3961005515
WRAX REG4,0.0000000000
;------ Scale/Offset
RDAX REG0,1.0000000000
SOF 0.9400000000,0.0600000000
WRAX REG5,0.0000000000
;------ Coarse Delay
RDAX REG4,1.0000000000
WRA 0,0.0
CLR
OR $007FFF00
MULX REG5
SOF 0.9749755859,0.0000305176
WRAX ADDR_PTR,0.0000000000
RMPA 1.0
WRAX REG6,0.0000000000
;------ Mixer 2:1
RDAX ADCL,1.0000000000
WRAX REG7,0.0000000000
RDAX REG6,1.0000000000
MULX POT2
RDAX REG7,1.0000000000
WRAX REG7,0.0000000000
;------ FB In 1
RDAX REG6,0.7600000000
WRAX REG1,0.0000000000
;------ Output
RDAX REG7,1.0000000000
WRAX DACL,0.0000000000Delay+REverb taken from the 3K project. This one is stereo. It should be modified to work properly in the project:
;ECHO+REVERB.
;Pot0 = delay 100-500ms.
;Pot1 = repeat
;Pot2 = reverb (fixed parameters)
mem del 22938
mem ap1 123
mem ap2 245
mem ap3 625
mem ap4 856
mem lap1a 974
mem lap1b 1437
mem d1 1523
mem lap2a 1356
mem lap2b 1168
mem d2 1445
;write-first registers:
equ apout reg0
equ dout reg1
equ ef reg2
;read-first registers:
equ lf1 reg20
equ lf2 reg21
equ efil reg22
;constants:
equ krt 0.7
equ kshlf -0.5
;clear read-first registers and establish smoothing lFOs:
skp run,endclr
wrax lf1,0
wrax lf2,0
wrax efil,0
wlds sin0,25,100
wlds sin1,30,100
endclr:
;prepare delay control:
rdax pot0,1
and %01111110_00000000_00000000
sof 0.6,0.1 ;100 to 700mS
wrax addr_ptr,0
;write inputs to delay and involve feedback:
rdax efil,1 ;filtered echo out
mulx pot1 ;repeat control
rdax adcl,0.25
rdax adcr,0.25
wra del,1
mulx pot2 ;reverb control
;fall-through, do reverb:
rda ap1#,0.5
wrap ap1,-0.5
rda ap2#,0.5
wrap ap2,-0.5
rda ap3#,0.5
wrap ap3,-0.5
rda ap4#,0.5
wrap ap4,-0.5
wrax apout,0
rda d2#,krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap1a#,0.5
wrap lap1a,-0.5
rda lap1b#,0.5
wrap lap1b,-0.5
rdfx lf1,0.5
wrlx lf1,kshlf
wra d1,1.5
rdax dout,1
wrax dacl,0
rda d1#,krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap2a#,0.5
wrap lap2a,-0.5
rda lap2b#,0.5
wrap lap2b,-0.5
rdfx lf2,0.5
wrlx lf2,kshlf
wra d2,1.5
rdax dout,1
wrax dacr,0
;now get dout with address pointer:
rmpa 1
wrax dout,0
;develop filter coefficient, ef, from pot1:
;make such that ef=1 if pot is zero or max,
;but reduces to 0.5 at mid scale
rdax pot1,1
sof 1,-0.5 ;make go -.5 to +0.5
sof 1.2,0 ;make go -0.6 to +0.6
absa ;now +0.6, 0, +0.6
sof 1,0.4 ;now 1, 0.4, 1
wrax ef,0 ;write echo filter coefficient
;now filter dout into eout:
rdax dout,1
rdax efil,-1
mulx ef
rdax efil,1
wrax efil,0
;smooth reverb delays:
cho rda,sin0,sin|reg|compc,d1+100
cho rda,sin0,sin,d1+101
wra d1+200,0
cho rda,sin1,sin|reg|compc,d2+100
cho rda,sin1,sin,d2+101
wra d2+200,0
Thanks for those FX! I'll add them to my collection.
I already checked the Spinsemi forum for free effects posted by forum memebers and copied whatever I was interested.
There's enough material top play with :)
I've been checking the echotapper site and although I'm not very much into vintage I would like to have some of those by hand so the question is how to combine their effects (the text files which look like hex files but not quite) with existing spn files?
Quote from: MetalGuy on May 03, 2018, 04:22:35 PM
(the text files which look like hex files but not quite)
I'm not familir with this... can you post an example?
I think I've seen the Blue Nebula pedal mentioned somewhere by Mick.
https://echotapper.wordpress.com/membuilder-effect-files/
I used their Membuilder to combine 8 of them to be loaded to the EPROM (scroll down a little).
https://echotapper.wordpress.com/latest-updates-here/
Quote from: MetalGuy on May 04, 2018, 09:01:31 AM
I think I've seen the Blue Nebula pedal mentioned somewhere by Mick.
https://echotapper.wordpress.com/membuilder-effect-files/
I used their Membuilder to combine 8 of them to be loaded to the EPROM (scroll down a little).
https://echotapper.wordpress.com/latest-updates-here/
I see.... I was not aware this tool was generating hex files. They definitively look like FV-1 hex files.
Did you try to upload the combined hex file into your FV-1?
The issues I can think of are the hardware differences between the Nebula and the FV-1 project.
-Depending on the gain of the circuit, you will have a weak/loud sound.
-Is the blue nebula using both inputs (L/R) or just one? (is is stereo?)
-does the nebula control mix via hardware or software?
Depending on this, the patches might work but not optimally.
Now, regarding how to combine... you can always combine hex files, they are standard "intel hex" files. The first 128 lines are the first patch, the following 128 the second one, etc... But you would need to write a small app, or an excel file to take care of the addresses and checksum.
https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_HEX (https://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Intel_HEX)
QuoteDid you try to upload the combined hex file into your FV-1?
Yes, it uploaded and worked successfully. What I can't figure out is how to combine several spn files with some of their effects files which look like hex files. I tried in SpinAsm to generate a hex file from a single spn file and combine it with Membuilder however it didn't work.
Quote
But you would need to write a small app, or an excel file to take care of the addresses and checksum.
I don't think I'm competent enough to do that but if you provide an example I can give it a shot.
Quote from: MetalGuy on May 04, 2018, 09:01:31 AM
I think I've seen the Blue Nebula pedal mentioned somewhere by Mick.
https://echotapper.wordpress.com/membuilder-effect-files/
I used their Membuilder to combine 8 of them to be loaded to the EPROM (scroll down a little).
https://echotapper.wordpress.com/latest-updates-here/
Yes, if you visit my website you can download the Blue Nebula EEPROMS these will work in the FV-1 forum project PCB. Some of The Blue Nebula effects have been developed directly form Piet's etap2hw work. These are not available for commercial use.
http://www.stanleyaudio.com/bndownloads.html
The manual for using Membuilder is available from Philips echotapper blog.
Would anyone out there make a video comparing the sound of the Shimmer effect of Goldmine with Strymon Bluesky? And put this in youtobe so we can compare the sounds of the two being played the same chords?
If you'd like to combine some of your own Spin hex code with the MemBuilder 'effect' files there is a MemBuilder Technical document that explains how to convert a hex file to a MemBuilder file - all you need is a text editor and the ability to RTM ;)
The document is available on the Latest Updates Here page of my blog:
https://echotapper.wordpress.com/latest-updates-here/ (https://echotapper.wordpress.com/latest-updates-here/)
There is also a blank 'Builder Header' file so you can easily add your own hex code to it and save as a MemBuilder effect file:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/28yag7602ijdyxa/Builder%20Header.txt?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/28yag7602ijdyxa/Builder%20Header.txt?dl=0)
To answer some other questions asked earlier about the Blue Nebula:
- The input is fed to both L and R (summing helps reduce noise) so it's mono, not stereo
- Dry and Wet are mixed in software
Phil.
Thanks for your suggestions but I already figured how to extract what I need from an existing hex file.
Hello Anyone!
I am new here and a newbie to building stompboxes too (I already built/soldered an MS-20-Filter-clone (Jörg Schmitz variant of the René Schmitz-Design) and an Yamaha DB-50-XG-Wavetable-Expander from c't heise.de) ... ;-)
This is a really massive thread and I am at work , so I just want to ask you kindly for any help to find the essential informations to build my own FV-1. Obviously the pics are gone but I was not able to find the schematics nor the BOM or any Code for flashing the IC.
Beside that Lack of all this essential information I found a store where I could buy the PCB for this very interesting reverb stomp box.
I used the forum's search engine but either I was too stupid or it was impossible to find the above mentioned infos here... ;-)
So I am not sure, wether it is an actual project here or wether it has been discontinued.
Question:
Do the schematics, BOM and Code still exist for building my own FV-1 Multi-FX-StompBox, or am I wrong? And where can I find these, if its an actual DIY-project?
I am hopefully looking forward to receive any help in this concern and want to thank you very much in advcance!
Best regards from Bonn,
Michael
Project is active and working. I recently built a couple of pedals.
I copy here a thread index somebody compiled long ago. Useful to find info:
Page 1:
first two instalments plus discussion of programmer
page 5:
#88 PICkit prog connections
#98 ref to 8 pole prog select switch
Page 6:
#105 PIC alternative
#114 BOM
#117 Drill template
Page 8:
#145 PIC code
#146 Echo/Rev code
Page 10:
#188 room reverb
Page 12:
#228 programmer diagramme and instructions Slacker
Page 13:
#250 more on programming
#252 download of project info
#259 asm versions of FV-1 project programs
Page 14:
#263 replace R2 with link allows full 9v to analogue circuitry
#268 using arduino to control footswitch selection of programs
#269 simple echo code
#270 Slacker's BabelFish
Page 19:
#373 distortion algorithm
As you can see, in page 13 you have the code.
@potul That's good news!!! Thank you very much!!!
Seems like a good idea to aggregate that info in a new thread to ease the access for anyone who's new to the thing... Maybe I'll do that... later... ;-)
Thanks again!
Best regards
Michael
Quote from: mightymike1978 on July 25, 2018, 05:08:16 AM
@potul That's good news!!! Thank you very much!!!
Seems like a good idea to aggregate that info in a new thread to ease the access for anyone who's new to the thing... Maybe I'll do that... later... ;-)
Thanks again!
Best regards
Michael
There is no point in splitting this thread and putting parts in different threads to find, it would just confuse thing more.
Maybe Aron could put the index of pages that Potul has posted as a sticky in the first page/post, or maybe I can compile a post with all the available info with download links that Aron can make as a sticky.(I have found some of the missing pictures from Photobucket).
Quote from: Ice-9 on July 25, 2018, 06:22:13 AM
There is no point in splitting this thread and putting parts in different threads to find, it would just confuse thing more.
Maybe Aron could put the index of pages that Potul has posted as a sticky in the first page/post, or maybe I can compile a post with all the available info with download links that Aron can make as a sticky.(I have found some of the missing pictures from Photobucket).
I agree with Ice-9 about keeping everything in this topic. While I've been looking for information about the Shimmer effect, in the past, I've found a lot of information spread over the internet and I can safely say that this topic is one of the most interesting, because the information is all in one place.
I think the index is a good idea.
I'd like to see these photos, Ice-9. :D
Hello mightymike1978, welcome. If you have a little time that you can use to calmly read the whole topic, I can assure you it will be an interesting read. I spent a lot of time reading, but I'm very satisfied. :)
I finally managed to build a 6 knob version of the project (with Mix and Level controls) so I can use some effects that don't have a mix control on one of the 3 pots. Everything works fine except there is a loud pop when switching between the effects. I didn't pay attention to it when I was testing it at low levels but when I plugged it into my 100W tube head FX loop the problem became obvious.
If I'm going to use only one preset effect on stage (which is the most likely scenario) that's not going to be a problem but if I try to use another effect that will be a huge problem.
So any ideas what could be the problem?
(http://s1.bild.me/bilder/110417/thumb_3278156Image1.jpg) (http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3278156Image1.jpg)
(http://s1.bild.me/bilder/110417/thumb_7352823Image2.jpg) (http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7352823Image2.jpg)
Quote from: MetalGuy on September 26, 2018, 08:19:40 AM
I finally managed to build a 6 knob version of the project (with Mix and Level controls) so I can use some effects that don't have a mix control on one of the 3 pots. Everything works fine except there is a loud pop when switching between the effects. I didn't pay attention to it when I was testing it at low levels but when I plugged it into my 100W tube head FX loop the problem became obvious.
If I'm going to use only one preset effect on stage (which is the most likely scenario) that's not going to be a problem but if I try to use another effect that will be a huge problem.
So any ideas what could be the problem?
(http://s1.bild.me/bilder/110417/thumb_3278156Image1.jpg) (http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=3278156Image1.jpg)
(http://s1.bild.me/bilder/110417/thumb_7352823Image2.jpg) (http://www.bild.me/bild.php?file=7352823Image2.jpg)
I have taken the same approach for the PCB of the new FV-1 project which I am working on with extra controls and seperate dry/wet mix pot and dry kill switch with a stackable PCB for the controls as seen in the pictures below.
I have not had any problems so far with noise when switching between programs that I have noticed, although I have not tested in an FX loop. I will see if I can test this out with my 50W valve amp a little later and let you know.
When changing programs you are effectively altering what signal is on the ADC/DAC's of the DSP so that could cause the pop you are getting, also worth checking through the ASM code of the programs you are using for possible reasons. Do you still get a pop if you change programs even if the pedal is in bypass ?
(https://i.postimg.cc/tsHL4pqt/IMG_1307.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/tsHL4pqt)
(https://i.postimg.cc/mPNKcJhx/IMG_1308.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/mPNKcJhx)
QuoteDo you still get a pop if you change programs even if the pedal is in bypass ?
No pops when bypassed (3PDT).
Currently I have 5 of the GA_DEMO effects plus Octaver, Another simple delay and a Reverb/Hall.
The loudest pop I get is when I go from Octaver to GA_DEMO_TREM.spn and to Reverb/Hall and back. It seems like that
GA_DEMO_TREM is the problem but this is just a guess.
Quote from: MetalGuy on September 26, 2018, 02:56:20 PM
QuoteDo you still get a pop if you change programs even if the pedal is in bypass ?
No pops when bypassed (3PDT).
Currently I have 5 of the GA_DEMO effects plus Octaver, Another simple delay and a Reverb/Hall.
The loudest pop I get is when I go from Octaver to GA_DEMO_TREM.spn and to Reverb/Hall and back. It seems like that
GA_DEMO_TREM is the problem but this is just a guess.
Ok That might be easy to fix as there was a known issue with the first FV-1 chips and if you look in the GA demo programs you can see that when writing the output to left and right DAC's there is an sof line that corrects the difference between the offsets of the outputs.
Remove the sof lines I have remarked on in the snippet below. (these sof lines are in every GA_Demo program and can be removed). Let me know if this works for you.
;now produce output:
rdax mono,0.5 ;attenuate signals so as not to clip
mulx trem
sof 0.75,0 ;boost tremelo to maintain average amplitude
rdax mono,-0.5
mulx pot2 ;crossover between input and tremelo with pot2
rdax mono,0.5
sof 1.999,0 ;recover gain
rdax revout,1
sof 1,0.2 ; DELETE THIS LINEwrax dacl,1
sof 1,-0.4 ; DELETE THIS LINE wrax dacr,0
Remove the two lines I have marked ;DELETE THIS LINE
Thanks for the tip. I'll give it a try.
I deleted the two lines you pointed to and the problem is gone.
Still some clicks between the GA effects but not so loud.
I guess I can go ahead and delete the same lines in all other GA effects?
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 26, 2018, 03:26:44 PM
Ok That might be easy to fix as there was a known issue with the first FV-1 chips and if you look in the GA demo programs you can see that when writing the output to left and right DAC's there is an sof line that corrects the difference between the offsets of the outputs.
I wasn't aware of this issue.... So the software was adding some DC offset to compensate for a hardware issue?
Quote from: MetalGuy on September 27, 2018, 06:03:44 AM
I deleted the two lines you pointed to and the problem is gone.
Still some clicks between the GA effects but not so loud.
I guess I can go ahead and delete the same lines in all other GA effects?
Yes you can delete these two lines in all the GA_Demo programs
Quote from: potul on September 27, 2018, 07:57:37 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on September 26, 2018, 03:26:44 PM
Ok That might be easy to fix as there was a known issue with the first FV-1 chips and if you look in the GA demo programs you can see that when writing the output to left and right DAC's there is an sof line that corrects the difference between the offsets of the outputs.
I wasn't aware of this issue.... So the software was adding some DC offset to compensate for a hardware issue?
The DC offset issue I believe was fixed BEFORE the FV-1 was released, so was only in the testing phase IIRC. The DC offset fix seen in the GA_Demo programs was not updated in the code so I suppose they really could do with an update to remove the pre release DC offset fix.
Maybe Frank could shed some light on this as he will have all the correct facts about it. I am only repeating what I have read and my information may not be fully accurate.
It was fixed after either the first or second batch of FV-1s, I can't remember if the second boat started before we sent in the mask change. In any case it has been fixed for many years and there is no harm leaving the shift in the code.
I reprogrammed the EPROM with the edited GA effects. The one loud pop is completely gone. Still some minor clicks but not between all effects so as a whole the problem is fixed.
Quote from: MetalGuy on September 28, 2018, 03:37:49 AM
I reprogrammed the EPROM with the edited GA effects. The one loud pop is completely gone. Still some minor clicks but not between all effects so as a whole the problem is fixed.
Yes while the GA_Demo programs as are will work just fine, when changing programs they will cause a pop just the same as true bypass can cause a pop due to Dc offset, definitely remove those DC offset lines from the code as it will help with any pop when incrementing programs.
There may always be some pop when changing programs as when you load a new program you will be changing what is on the DAC output, I suppose the way to totally combat this would be to have a micro control a mute on the out put of the DACS when a program change occurs. I think it all depends on how much of a problem the pop is going to be. ;)
Hi,
Did anyone see this as a control for program selection - http://www.hexeguitar.com/diy/utility/fv1progsel ?
What is the best option, I can see the topic has been discussed in the past but can't see a definitive solution. If I was to utilise the above solution, where would it connect into the board?
Thanks for a great project, cheers daz
looks like a good solution
you need to connect it to S0, S2, and S3 pins of the FV-1 (plus gnd and 3.3V)
Hmm,
Bit of a dumb question really ! but thought I'd ask, just in case someone could think of any possible issues :icon_biggrin:
Thanks daz
@ice9: any chance you're gonna release your new fv-1 design's gerber files once you're satisfied with it?
Quote from: Tuff Pedals on December 11, 2018, 10:01:54 AM
Hi,
Did anyone see this as a control for program selection - http://www.hexeguitar.com/diy/utility/fv1progsel ?
What is the best option, I can see the topic has been discussed in the past but can't see a definitive solution. If I was to utilise the above solution, where would it connect into the board?
Thanks for a great project, cheers daz
Yeah this would work fine, just don't fit the pic chip to the main pcb. There are some small solder pads which sit under where the pic would normally go for this exact type of switch fitting.
On the other hand I'm sure I posted a little switch pcb which replaces the pot and connects to the 3 pot pads, this makes fitting easier than the 5 wire version above.
Here is a little update for the ShimmerVerb which is meant for the new project pedal but will work in the original as well. Give it a try, it was work done some time ago but will be the basis for the new shimmer.
;New Shimmer Reverb Program
;from 3k Room
;09/01/2013 rev 1.01 Mick Taylor
;22/11/2015 rev 2.1 Set pre Delay Reverb freq. response and gain changes
; pre delay removed for shimmer code space
;07/12/2015 Shimmer code added Mick Taylor
;Pot0 = Shimmer
;Pot1 = reverb level
;Pot2 = reverb time
mem shimdel 4096 ;delay for shimmer
mem stemp 1
mem idel 4000 ;initial sound space 122mS
mem iap0 11
mem iap1 27
mem iap2 43
mem iap5 171
mem iap6 296 ;thickening all passes embedded in initial delay
mem ap1 134 ;4.1mS
mem ap2 256 ;7.8mS
mem ap3 562 ;17.1mS
mem ap4 763 ;reverb loop input all passes
mem lap1a 1421 ;43mS
mem lap1b 1945 ;59mS
mem d1 2434 ;74mS
mem lap2a 1894 ;58mS
mem lap2b 1767 ;54mS
mem d2 2645 ;80.7mS loop constants
;write constants registers
equ kd -0.5 ;damping coefficient for shelving
;write-first registers
equ dry reg0
equ rev_in reg1
equ kirt reg2 ;coefficient to scale initial sound
equ krt reg3 ;coefficient to affect RT of loop
equ apout reg4 ;output of loop input all passes
equ temp reg5 ;temp register for filter routines
equ gain reg6 ;adjust gain with RT
equ revout reg7
equ pitchout reg8 ;octave up output
;read-first registers;
equ lf1 reg20 ;reverb loop filter 1
equ lf2 reg21 ;reverb loop filter 2
equ hf1 reg22 ;loop high pass 1 fixed
equ hf2 reg23 ;loop high pass 2 fixed
equ lfin1 reg24 ;LPF for imbedding in initial delay
equ lfin2 reg25 ;LPF for imbedding in initial delay
equ lf reg26 ;input low pass shelving with kd
equ lpfp reg27
equ lpfk 0.3 ;lpf coefficent for lpfp after pitch shifting 1.85kHz
equ lpfs -0.5 ;Shelving coefficent for lpfp
;clear read-first registers
skp run,endclr
wrax lf1,0
wrax lf2,0
wrax hf1,0
wrax hf2,0
wrax lfin1,0
wrax lfin2,0
wrax lf,0
endclr:
;initial sound tap positions 30.5uS/location, 100=3.05mS
equ ld1 874 ;first tap, left 26.7mS
equ rd1 874 ;first tap, right 26.7mS
equ ld2 1156 ;and so on... 35.3mS
equ rd2 962 ;29.3mS
equ ld3 1345 ;41mS
equ rd3 1121 ;34.2mS
equ ld4 1456 ;44.4mS
equ rd4 1423 ;43.4mS
equ ld5 2121 ;64.7mS
equ rd5 2124 ;64.7mS
equ ld6 3245 ;99mS
equ rd6 3646 ;111.2mS
;initialize sin LFO
skp run,endset
wlds sin0,25,100
wldr RMP0,16384,4096 ;load octave up
endset:
;--------------Off and Running Program Loops to Here--------------------------
;prepare decay pot Reverb Time
rdax pot2,0.97 ;get pot, limit to less than infinite
wrax krt,1 ;write loop decay time
sof 0.4,0.6 ;scale Pot to 0.6 to 1.0 range
wrax kirt,1 ;write impulse filter gains changed to 1 from 0 MT 22-11-15 gain always +0.99 before=too high
sof -0.88,0.99 ;scale to decrease gain with RT need to assess the -1 & the 0.99 range offset for gain Vs RT now changed to -0.88
; Range allowed=-2.0 to +0.9999389 e.g. From scale above if pot2=0.6 then 0.6* -0.88+0.99=0.46;if pot2=1 then gain=0.11 23-11-2015
wrax gain,0 ;write gain factor and clear ACC
;------------------------------Octave up------------------------------------
cho rda,RMP0,REG|COMPC,shimdel
cho rda,RMP0,,shimdel+1
wra stemp,0
cho rda,RMP0,RPTR2|COMPC,shimdel
cho rda,RMP0,RPTR2,shimdel+1
cho sof,RMP0,NA|COMPC,0
cho rda,RMP0,NA,stemp
mulx POT0
rdfx lpfp, lpfk ;Freq coef
wrhx lpfp, lpfs ;Shelving coef.
wrax pitchout,0
;-------------do inputs to predelay-------------------
;rdax pitchout,1
rdax adcl,0.5
rdax adcr,0.5 ;get inputs sum & divide by 2
wrax dry,1 ;22/11/2015 write dry input signal to dry register and keep in ACC for mulx next instruction:
mulx gain ;Acc=Acc* reg& give greater gain to short RT See code above for adjusting this 23-11-2015 Steve
wrax rev_in,1 ;22/11/2015 write gain adjusted dry input to rev_in register and clear ACC Reg1
wra shimdel,0
;--------------------read predelay and write initial all pass response delay------------------
rdax pitchout,1
rdax rev_in, 0.5 ;use 97mS delayed signal divided by 2 for reverb input
rda iap0#,0.5 ;Read from end of initial all pass memory0 divide by 2 adding to rev_in data
wrap iap0,-0.5 ;complicate input to initial delay
wrax temp,1 ; Write ACC to register;multiply ACC x 1.
rdfx lf,0.404 ;Low pass <2.7kHz
wrhx lf,-1 ;Register=ACC; ACC=ACC*(-1)+previous contents of ACC
mulx kd ;ACC=ACC*Reg kd = damping coefficient for shelving from POT0
rdax temp,1 ;low pass filter entire input
wra idel,0 ;write initial sound delay clear ACC
;complicate initial sound
rda idel+500,1 ;read from 15.2mS position Retain ACC
rda iap1#,0.5 ;read from end of iap1 delay stream divided by 2
wrap iap1,-0.5 ;write to beginning of iap1,
wra idel+500,0 ;data at delay ram address=ACC; ACC=ACC*0 , i.e. clear ACC
rda idel+1000,1 ;read from 30.5mS position
rda iap2#,0.5 ;read from end of iap2 delay stream divided by 2
wrap iap2,-0.5 ;write to beginning of iap2,
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin1,0.2 ;0.2=~1.2kHz perhaps too high for Abbey Road reverb try 600Hz = 0.109
wrhx lfin1,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input shelving LPF
wra idel+1000,0 ;now modify idel+1000 but clear ACC
rda idel+2500,1 ;read from 76.3mS position retain ACC
rda iap5#,0.5
wrap iap5,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin2,0.2 ;0.2 =~1.2kHz
wrhx lfin2,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input shelving LPF
wra idel+2500,0 ;data at delay ram address=ACC; ACC=ACC*0 , i.e. clear ACC
rda idel+3000,1 ;read from 91.5mS position retain ACC
rda iap6#,0.5
wrap iap6,-0.5
wra idel+3000,0
;do reverb input all passes
rda idel,0.9 ;leave some headroom
rda ap1#,0.5
wrap ap1,-0.5
rda ap2#,0.5
wrap ap2,-0.5
rda ap3#,0.5
wrap ap3,-0.5
rda ap4#,0.5
wrap ap4,-0.5
wrax apout,0 ;Save all pass out to
;do reverb loop and sum all outputs
rda d2#,1 ;Read from end of d2, retain ACC
mulx krt ;krt = Reverb Time coefficient
rdax apout,1
rda lap1a#,0.5
wrap lap1a,-0.5
rda lap1b#,0.5
wrap lap1b,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lf1,0.404 ;2.7kHz
wrhx lf1,-1 ;make LP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back temporary filter input keep ACC
rdfx hf1,0.01 ;ACC=ACC+reg-ACC*0.01
wrhx hf1,-0.5 ;roll out lows in loop
wra d1,0 ;Write sum to d1 location clear ACC
rda d1#,1 ;Read from end of d1 memory
mulx krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap2a#,0.5
wrap lap2a,-0.5
rda lap2b#,0.5
wrap lap2b,-0.5
wrax temp,1
rdfx lf2,0.404 ;Again use 2.7kHz
wrhx lf2,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1
rdfx hf2,0.01
wrhx hf2,-0.5
wra d2,1.99
rda d1,1.99
mulx pot1
mulx pot1
wrax revout,0 ;Reverb output saved to register, ACC cleared
;do reverb smoothing
cho rda,sin0,sin|reg|compc,d1+100
cho rda,sin0,sin,d1+101
wra d1+200,0
cho rda,sin0,cos|reg|compc,d2+100
cho rda,sin0,cos,d2+101
wra d2+200,0
;now combine to output
rdax dry,1 ;
rdax revout,1
wrax dacl,0
thanks for the code, I will give it a try later this week
What does everyone think of this as a DIY shimmer?? Ive packed this with as many features as i could. Its my first prototype of the design but ill have all the build files ready soon just finalizing everything. so keep up to date on the progress with my social media
https://www.facebook.com/coloradosynthdoctor
https://www.instagram.com/coloradosynthdoctor/
(https://i.postimg.cc/hhfjsBJW/20200820-221254.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/hhfjsBJW)
(https://i.postimg.cc/NLS0PzTy/20200821-002547.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/NLS0PzTy)
Wow, I have just realised that it has been 10 years almost to this date that I first started this FV-1 forum project. I think it's time for something new, buckle up , get your popcorn in, beers or whatever. I have a plan. New Project, New thread, different format.
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 20, 2019, 07:29:39 AM
Here is a little update for the ShimmerVerb which is meant for the new project pedal but will work in the original as well. Give it a try, it was work done some time ago but will be the basis for the new shimmer.
;New Shimmer Reverb Program
;from 3k Room
;09/01/2013 rev 1.01 Mick Taylor
;22/11/2015 rev 2.1 Set pre Delay Reverb freq. response and gain changes
; pre delay removed for shimmer code space
;07/12/2015 Shimmer code added Mick Taylor
;Pot0 = Shimmer
;Pot1 = reverb level
;Pot2 = reverb time
mem shimdel 4096 ;delay for shimmer
mem stemp 1
mem idel 4000 ;initial sound space 122mS
mem iap0 11
mem iap1 27
mem iap2 43
mem iap5 171
mem iap6 296 ;thickening all passes embedded in initial delay
mem ap1 134 ;4.1mS
mem ap2 256 ;7.8mS
mem ap3 562 ;17.1mS
mem ap4 763 ;reverb loop input all passes
mem lap1a 1421 ;43mS
mem lap1b 1945 ;59mS
mem d1 2434 ;74mS
mem lap2a 1894 ;58mS
mem lap2b 1767 ;54mS
mem d2 2645 ;80.7mS loop constants
;write constants registers
equ kd -0.5 ;damping coefficient for shelving
;write-first registers
equ dry reg0
equ rev_in reg1
equ kirt reg2 ;coefficient to scale initial sound
equ krt reg3 ;coefficient to affect RT of loop
equ apout reg4 ;output of loop input all passes
equ temp reg5 ;temp register for filter routines
equ gain reg6 ;adjust gain with RT
equ revout reg7
equ pitchout reg8 ;octave up output
;read-first registers;
equ lf1 reg20 ;reverb loop filter 1
equ lf2 reg21 ;reverb loop filter 2
equ hf1 reg22 ;loop high pass 1 fixed
equ hf2 reg23 ;loop high pass 2 fixed
equ lfin1 reg24 ;LPF for imbedding in initial delay
equ lfin2 reg25 ;LPF for imbedding in initial delay
equ lf reg26 ;input low pass shelving with kd
equ lpfp reg27
equ lpfk 0.3 ;lpf coefficent for lpfp after pitch shifting 1.85kHz
equ lpfs -0.5 ;Shelving coefficent for lpfp
;clear read-first registers
skp run,endclr
wrax lf1,0
wrax lf2,0
wrax hf1,0
wrax hf2,0
wrax lfin1,0
wrax lfin2,0
wrax lf,0
endclr:
;initial sound tap positions 30.5uS/location, 100=3.05mS
equ ld1 874 ;first tap, left 26.7mS
equ rd1 874 ;first tap, right 26.7mS
equ ld2 1156 ;and so on... 35.3mS
equ rd2 962 ;29.3mS
equ ld3 1345 ;41mS
equ rd3 1121 ;34.2mS
equ ld4 1456 ;44.4mS
equ rd4 1423 ;43.4mS
equ ld5 2121 ;64.7mS
equ rd5 2124 ;64.7mS
equ ld6 3245 ;99mS
equ rd6 3646 ;111.2mS
;initialize sin LFO
skp run,endset
wlds sin0,25,100
wldr RMP0,16384,4096 ;load octave up
endset:
;--------------Off and Running Program Loops to Here--------------------------
;prepare decay pot Reverb Time
rdax pot2,0.97 ;get pot, limit to less than infinite
wrax krt,1 ;write loop decay time
sof 0.4,0.6 ;scale Pot to 0.6 to 1.0 range
wrax kirt,1 ;write impulse filter gains changed to 1 from 0 MT 22-11-15 gain always +0.99 before=too high
sof -0.88,0.99 ;scale to decrease gain with RT need to assess the -1 & the 0.99 range offset for gain Vs RT now changed to -0.88
; Range allowed=-2.0 to +0.9999389 e.g. From scale above if pot2=0.6 then 0.6* -0.88+0.99=0.46;if pot2=1 then gain=0.11 23-11-2015
wrax gain,0 ;write gain factor and clear ACC
;------------------------------Octave up------------------------------------
cho rda,RMP0,REG|COMPC,shimdel
cho rda,RMP0,,shimdel+1
wra stemp,0
cho rda,RMP0,RPTR2|COMPC,shimdel
cho rda,RMP0,RPTR2,shimdel+1
cho sof,RMP0,NA|COMPC,0
cho rda,RMP0,NA,stemp
mulx POT0
rdfx lpfp, lpfk ;Freq coef
wrhx lpfp, lpfs ;Shelving coef.
wrax pitchout,0
;-------------do inputs to predelay-------------------
;rdax pitchout,1
rdax adcl,0.5
rdax adcr,0.5 ;get inputs sum & divide by 2
wrax dry,1 ;22/11/2015 write dry input signal to dry register and keep in ACC for mulx next instruction:
mulx gain ;Acc=Acc* reg& give greater gain to short RT See code above for adjusting this 23-11-2015 Steve
wrax rev_in,1 ;22/11/2015 write gain adjusted dry input to rev_in register and clear ACC Reg1
wra shimdel,0
;--------------------read predelay and write initial all pass response delay------------------
rdax pitchout,1
rdax rev_in, 0.5 ;use 97mS delayed signal divided by 2 for reverb input
rda iap0#,0.5 ;Read from end of initial all pass memory0 divide by 2 adding to rev_in data
wrap iap0,-0.5 ;complicate input to initial delay
wrax temp,1 ; Write ACC to register;multiply ACC x 1.
rdfx lf,0.404 ;Low pass <2.7kHz
wrhx lf,-1 ;Register=ACC; ACC=ACC*(-1)+previous contents of ACC
mulx kd ;ACC=ACC*Reg kd = damping coefficient for shelving from POT0
rdax temp,1 ;low pass filter entire input
wra idel,0 ;write initial sound delay clear ACC
;complicate initial sound
rda idel+500,1 ;read from 15.2mS position Retain ACC
rda iap1#,0.5 ;read from end of iap1 delay stream divided by 2
wrap iap1,-0.5 ;write to beginning of iap1,
wra idel+500,0 ;data at delay ram address=ACC; ACC=ACC*0 , i.e. clear ACC
rda idel+1000,1 ;read from 30.5mS position
rda iap2#,0.5 ;read from end of iap2 delay stream divided by 2
wrap iap2,-0.5 ;write to beginning of iap2,
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin1,0.2 ;0.2=~1.2kHz perhaps too high for Abbey Road reverb try 600Hz = 0.109
wrhx lfin1,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input shelving LPF
wra idel+1000,0 ;now modify idel+1000 but clear ACC
rda idel+2500,1 ;read from 76.3mS position retain ACC
rda iap5#,0.5
wrap iap5,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin2,0.2 ;0.2 =~1.2kHz
wrhx lfin2,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input shelving LPF
wra idel+2500,0 ;data at delay ram address=ACC; ACC=ACC*0 , i.e. clear ACC
rda idel+3000,1 ;read from 91.5mS position retain ACC
rda iap6#,0.5
wrap iap6,-0.5
wra idel+3000,0
;do reverb input all passes
rda idel,0.9 ;leave some headroom
rda ap1#,0.5
wrap ap1,-0.5
rda ap2#,0.5
wrap ap2,-0.5
rda ap3#,0.5
wrap ap3,-0.5
rda ap4#,0.5
wrap ap4,-0.5
wrax apout,0 ;Save all pass out to
;do reverb loop and sum all outputs
rda d2#,1 ;Read from end of d2, retain ACC
mulx krt ;krt = Reverb Time coefficient
rdax apout,1
rda lap1a#,0.5
wrap lap1a,-0.5
rda lap1b#,0.5
wrap lap1b,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lf1,0.404 ;2.7kHz
wrhx lf1,-1 ;make LP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back temporary filter input keep ACC
rdfx hf1,0.01 ;ACC=ACC+reg-ACC*0.01
wrhx hf1,-0.5 ;roll out lows in loop
wra d1,0 ;Write sum to d1 location clear ACC
rda d1#,1 ;Read from end of d1 memory
mulx krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap2a#,0.5
wrap lap2a,-0.5
rda lap2b#,0.5
wrap lap2b,-0.5
wrax temp,1
rdfx lf2,0.404 ;Again use 2.7kHz
wrhx lf2,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1
rdfx hf2,0.01
wrhx hf2,-0.5
wra d2,1.99
rda d1,1.99
mulx pot1
mulx pot1
wrax revout,0 ;Reverb output saved to register, ACC cleared
;do reverb smoothing
cho rda,sin0,sin|reg|compc,d1+100
cho rda,sin0,sin,d1+101
wra d1+200,0
cho rda,sin0,cos|reg|compc,d2+100
cho rda,sin0,cos,d2+101
wra d2+200,0
;now combine to output
rdax dry,1 ;
rdax revout,1
wrax dacl,0
I'm wondering how difficult it would be to modify your New Shimmer Reverb for a stereo output. The input could be mono, but a stereo input as well would be awesome.
I'm still shite at ASM, but I can work with the SpinCAD Designer with ease. If you have a SpinCAD Designer file you could share, the would be cool. Then I could futz with it myself and sort things out.
I'm working with a full stereo implementation of an FV-1 circuit from PedalPCB; the "Binaura". And I've "approximated" as stereo shimmer, but it's not quite right. When I try to enhance it, I run over the 128 line limit for the FV-1.
Thanks for your time and consideration.
Moo
Quote from: Cybercow on September 16, 2023, 07:53:50 PM
Quote from: Ice-9 on January 20, 2019, 07:29:39 AM
Here is a little update for the ShimmerVerb which is meant for the new project pedal but will work in the original as well. Give it a try, it was work done some time ago but will be the basis for the new shimmer.
;New Shimmer Reverb Program
;from 3k Room
;09/01/2013 rev 1.01 Mick Taylor
;22/11/2015 rev 2.1 Set pre Delay Reverb freq. response and gain changes
; pre delay removed for shimmer code space
;07/12/2015 Shimmer code added Mick Taylor
;Pot0 = Shimmer
;Pot1 = reverb level
;Pot2 = reverb time
mem shimdel 4096 ;delay for shimmer
mem stemp 1
mem idel 4000 ;initial sound space 122mS
mem iap0 11
mem iap1 27
mem iap2 43
mem iap5 171
mem iap6 296 ;thickening all passes embedded in initial delay
mem ap1 134 ;4.1mS
mem ap2 256 ;7.8mS
mem ap3 562 ;17.1mS
mem ap4 763 ;reverb loop input all passes
mem lap1a 1421 ;43mS
mem lap1b 1945 ;59mS
mem d1 2434 ;74mS
mem lap2a 1894 ;58mS
mem lap2b 1767 ;54mS
mem d2 2645 ;80.7mS loop constants
;write constants registers
equ kd -0.5 ;damping coefficient for shelving
;write-first registers
equ dry reg0
equ rev_in reg1
equ kirt reg2 ;coefficient to scale initial sound
equ krt reg3 ;coefficient to affect RT of loop
equ apout reg4 ;output of loop input all passes
equ temp reg5 ;temp register for filter routines
equ gain reg6 ;adjust gain with RT
equ revout reg7
equ pitchout reg8 ;octave up output
;read-first registers;
equ lf1 reg20 ;reverb loop filter 1
equ lf2 reg21 ;reverb loop filter 2
equ hf1 reg22 ;loop high pass 1 fixed
equ hf2 reg23 ;loop high pass 2 fixed
equ lfin1 reg24 ;LPF for imbedding in initial delay
equ lfin2 reg25 ;LPF for imbedding in initial delay
equ lf reg26 ;input low pass shelving with kd
equ lpfp reg27
equ lpfk 0.3 ;lpf coefficent for lpfp after pitch shifting 1.85kHz
equ lpfs -0.5 ;Shelving coefficent for lpfp
;clear read-first registers
skp run,endclr
wrax lf1,0
wrax lf2,0
wrax hf1,0
wrax hf2,0
wrax lfin1,0
wrax lfin2,0
wrax lf,0
endclr:
;initial sound tap positions 30.5uS/location, 100=3.05mS
equ ld1 874 ;first tap, left 26.7mS
equ rd1 874 ;first tap, right 26.7mS
equ ld2 1156 ;and so on... 35.3mS
equ rd2 962 ;29.3mS
equ ld3 1345 ;41mS
equ rd3 1121 ;34.2mS
equ ld4 1456 ;44.4mS
equ rd4 1423 ;43.4mS
equ ld5 2121 ;64.7mS
equ rd5 2124 ;64.7mS
equ ld6 3245 ;99mS
equ rd6 3646 ;111.2mS
;initialize sin LFO
skp run,endset
wlds sin0,25,100
wldr RMP0,16384,4096 ;load octave up
endset:
;--------------Off and Running Program Loops to Here--------------------------
;prepare decay pot Reverb Time
rdax pot2,0.97 ;get pot, limit to less than infinite
wrax krt,1 ;write loop decay time
sof 0.4,0.6 ;scale Pot to 0.6 to 1.0 range
wrax kirt,1 ;write impulse filter gains changed to 1 from 0 MT 22-11-15 gain always +0.99 before=too high
sof -0.88,0.99 ;scale to decrease gain with RT need to assess the -1 & the 0.99 range offset for gain Vs RT now changed to -0.88
; Range allowed=-2.0 to +0.9999389 e.g. From scale above if pot2=0.6 then 0.6* -0.88+0.99=0.46;if pot2=1 then gain=0.11 23-11-2015
wrax gain,0 ;write gain factor and clear ACC
;------------------------------Octave up------------------------------------
cho rda,RMP0,REG|COMPC,shimdel
cho rda,RMP0,,shimdel+1
wra stemp,0
cho rda,RMP0,RPTR2|COMPC,shimdel
cho rda,RMP0,RPTR2,shimdel+1
cho sof,RMP0,NA|COMPC,0
cho rda,RMP0,NA,stemp
mulx POT0
rdfx lpfp, lpfk ;Freq coef
wrhx lpfp, lpfs ;Shelving coef.
wrax pitchout,0
;-------------do inputs to predelay-------------------
;rdax pitchout,1
rdax adcl,0.5
rdax adcr,0.5 ;get inputs sum & divide by 2
wrax dry,1 ;22/11/2015 write dry input signal to dry register and keep in ACC for mulx next instruction:
mulx gain ;Acc=Acc* reg& give greater gain to short RT See code above for adjusting this 23-11-2015 Steve
wrax rev_in,1 ;22/11/2015 write gain adjusted dry input to rev_in register and clear ACC Reg1
wra shimdel,0
;--------------------read predelay and write initial all pass response delay------------------
rdax pitchout,1
rdax rev_in, 0.5 ;use 97mS delayed signal divided by 2 for reverb input
rda iap0#,0.5 ;Read from end of initial all pass memory0 divide by 2 adding to rev_in data
wrap iap0,-0.5 ;complicate input to initial delay
wrax temp,1 ; Write ACC to register;multiply ACC x 1.
rdfx lf,0.404 ;Low pass <2.7kHz
wrhx lf,-1 ;Register=ACC; ACC=ACC*(-1)+previous contents of ACC
mulx kd ;ACC=ACC*Reg kd = damping coefficient for shelving from POT0
rdax temp,1 ;low pass filter entire input
wra idel,0 ;write initial sound delay clear ACC
;complicate initial sound
rda idel+500,1 ;read from 15.2mS position Retain ACC
rda iap1#,0.5 ;read from end of iap1 delay stream divided by 2
wrap iap1,-0.5 ;write to beginning of iap1,
wra idel+500,0 ;data at delay ram address=ACC; ACC=ACC*0 , i.e. clear ACC
rda idel+1000,1 ;read from 30.5mS position
rda iap2#,0.5 ;read from end of iap2 delay stream divided by 2
wrap iap2,-0.5 ;write to beginning of iap2,
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin1,0.2 ;0.2=~1.2kHz perhaps too high for Abbey Road reverb try 600Hz = 0.109
wrhx lfin1,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input shelving LPF
wra idel+1000,0 ;now modify idel+1000 but clear ACC
rda idel+2500,1 ;read from 76.3mS position retain ACC
rda iap5#,0.5
wrap iap5,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lfin2,0.2 ;0.2 =~1.2kHz
wrhx lfin2,-1 ;make HP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back input shelving LPF
wra idel+2500,0 ;data at delay ram address=ACC; ACC=ACC*0 , i.e. clear ACC
rda idel+3000,1 ;read from 91.5mS position retain ACC
rda iap6#,0.5
wrap iap6,-0.5
wra idel+3000,0
;do reverb input all passes
rda idel,0.9 ;leave some headroom
rda ap1#,0.5
wrap ap1,-0.5
rda ap2#,0.5
wrap ap2,-0.5
rda ap3#,0.5
wrap ap3,-0.5
rda ap4#,0.5
wrap ap4,-0.5
wrax apout,0 ;Save all pass out to
;do reverb loop and sum all outputs
rda d2#,1 ;Read from end of d2, retain ACC
mulx krt ;krt = Reverb Time coefficient
rdax apout,1
rda lap1a#,0.5
wrap lap1a,-0.5
rda lap1b#,0.5
wrap lap1b,-0.5
wrax temp,1 ;save filter input
rdfx lf1,0.404 ;2.7kHz
wrhx lf1,-1 ;make LP filter
mulx kd ;multiply by negative shelving coef
rdax temp,1 ;add back temporary filter input keep ACC
rdfx hf1,0.01 ;ACC=ACC+reg-ACC*0.01
wrhx hf1,-0.5 ;roll out lows in loop
wra d1,0 ;Write sum to d1 location clear ACC
rda d1#,1 ;Read from end of d1 memory
mulx krt
rdax apout,1
rda lap2a#,0.5
wrap lap2a,-0.5
rda lap2b#,0.5
wrap lap2b,-0.5
wrax temp,1
rdfx lf2,0.404 ;Again use 2.7kHz
wrhx lf2,-1
mulx kd
rdax temp,1
rdfx hf2,0.01
wrhx hf2,-0.5
wra d2,1.99
rda d1,1.99
mulx pot1
mulx pot1
wrax revout,0 ;Reverb output saved to register, ACC cleared
;do reverb smoothing
cho rda,sin0,sin|reg|compc,d1+100
cho rda,sin0,sin,d1+101
wra d1+200,0
cho rda,sin0,cos|reg|compc,d2+100
cho rda,sin0,cos,d2+101
wra d2+200,0
;now combine to output
rdax dry,1 ;
rdax revout,1
wrax dacl,0
I'm wondering how difficult it would be to modify your New Shimmer Reverb for a stereo output. The input could be mono, but a stereo input as well would be awesome.
I'm still shite at ASM, but I can work with the SpinCAD Designer with ease. If you have a SpinCAD Designer file you could share, the would be cool. Then I could futz with it myself and sort things out.
I'm working with a full stereo implementation of an FV-1 circuit from PedalPCB; the "Binaura". And I've "approximated" as stereo shimmer, but it's not quite right. When I try to enhance it, I run over the 128 line limit for the FV-1.
Thanks for your time and consideration.
Moo
Sorry I am not familiar enough with Spincad to be able to convert this to that format. Maybe build a mono in stereo out reverb block in Spincad and add an octave up block before the reverb with feedback and delay to see how it works out.
I can't remember which file it is, but it seems the de facto FV-1 shimmer code that I've seen reproduced several places struck me as weird. Like the code just "ran off the end" rather than being conclusive. Sorry if it doesn't make any sense. It worked OK by itself but was not setup up properly to incorporate into SpinCAD.
I did a number of shimmery things as Ice-9 suggests. Just put a 2-1 mixer before the reverb block and put the pitch shift in different places.
- before the reverb, outside the feedback loop (before the mixer)
- before the reverb, inside the feedback loop (after the mixer)
- after the reverb, outside the feedback loop
- after the reverb, inside the feedback loop (before the loop input)
Try shifts of both +12 and +7 (a fifth) the +7 is actually my favorite shimmer sound.
You can also experiment with delays, multi-tap, MN3011, etc. in the configuration. OMG years of fun! Shreeeeikkk!! ;D
Quote from: Digital Larry on September 27, 2023, 01:24:16 PMI can't remember which file it is, but it seems the de facto FV-1 shimmer code that I've seen reproduced several places struck me as weird. Like the code just "ran off the end" rather than being conclusive. Sorry if it doesn't make any sense. It worked OK by itself but was not setup up properly to incorporate into SpinCAD.
I did a number of shimmery things as Ice-9 suggests. Just put a 2-1 mixer before the reverb block and put the pitch shift in different places.
- before the reverb, outside the feedback loop (before the mixer)
- before the reverb, inside the feedback loop (after the mixer)
- after the reverb, outside the feedback loop
- after the reverb, inside the feedback loop (before the loop input)
Try shifts of both +12 and +7 (a fifth) the +7 is actually my favorite shimmer sound.
You can also experiment with delays, multi-tap, MN3011, etc. in the configuration. OMG years of fun! Shreeeeikkk!! ;D
Thanks for that Larry. I'll giver a go.
On another note . . . have you ever done up a Barber-Pole Flanger in SpinCAD Designer?
Quote from: Cybercow on September 30, 2023, 11:40:54 AMQuote from: Digital Larry on September 27, 2023, 01:24:16 PMI can't remember which file it is, but it seems the de facto FV-1 shimmer code that I've seen reproduced several places struck me as weird. Like the code just "ran off the end" rather than being conclusive. Sorry if it doesn't make any sense. It worked OK by itself but was not setup up properly to incorporate into SpinCAD.
I did a number of shimmery things as Ice-9 suggests. Just put a 2-1 mixer before the reverb block and put the pitch shift in different places.
- before the reverb, outside the feedback loop (before the mixer)
- before the reverb, inside the feedback loop (after the mixer)
- after the reverb, outside the feedback loop
- after the reverb, inside the feedback loop (before the loop input)
Try shifts of both +12 and +7 (a fifth) the +7 is actually my favorite shimmer sound.
You can also experiment with delays, multi-tap, MN3011, etc. in the configuration. OMG years of fun! Shreeeeikkk!! ;D
Thanks for that Larry. I'll giver a go.
On another note . . . have you ever done up a Barber-Pole Flanger in SpinCAD Designer?
Heya Mr. Cow, the answer to that is "two moos" or "no". That was left as an exercise for the reader. If you can put one together in Spin ASM I'll add a block and name it after you!
DL