Well... For me to build something on perfboard is darn near a miracle. But I did it and it sounds awesome!!! IMHO..... ;D Anyways everything is good to go but I can't seem to get the LED to work. I wired it just like the diagram. Any suggestions as far as switching the wiring etc...? It appears the Anode of the LED goes across the EC and R4 by the DC. I may be wrong as always!!! ??? Input is greatly appreciated!!! Thanks guys!!!:) Here is the layout....
(http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k263/rydog2223/Guitar%20Pics/Pedal%20builds/Dallas_Rangemaster_zpsa0749536.jpg) (http://s90.photobucket.com/user/rydog2223/media/Guitar%20Pics/Pedal%20builds/Dallas_Rangemaster_zpsa0749536.jpg.html)
If you have the LED oriented correctly, and the switch wired up to ground it as shown, it WILL work (with cord plugged into jack)...altho, why is the current-limiting resistor so HIGH? 4.7K is awful high...I'd make it 680R to 1.5K. Depending on the LED, it may be so high it's not turning on.
If you suspect your LED is blown, hook it up LED >1K resistor > 9v battery to see if it lights. Be sure of your anode (to +) and cathode orientation...you can use this trick to find out which is A and K. The longer leg is A, and often has a flat spot on the case.
+1 LED backward or blown. Also, +1 on resistor value. I like 680K on/for BRIGHT ones, and 2.2K on regular...
LED's are all over the place in current requirements, i've clr's from 500 ohms to 47k running in various builds powered from 9v.
dave
I use 4k7 for my LED's, no problem there!
Thanks for the response guys!! That was the first thing I did.... Grabbed another LED. Still same thing. I think I might try the lower value today though! Makes sense..... I've gotten spoiled with 3PDT PCB's!!!! :icon_eek:
You do have something plugged into that input jack right? Just at a glace, if you followed that offboard wiring, the LED ground isn't connected to the DC jack's ground unless a mono plug is in the stereo input jack.
I've done that!! (no plug in the jack trick).
Also, the forgot to plug the battery in trick...
Quote from: Jopn on December 20, 2013, 12:30:46 PM
You do have something plugged into that input jack right? Just at a glace, if you followed that offboard wiring, the LED ground isn't connected to the DC jack's ground unless a mono plug is in the stereo input jack.
Indeed!:) That was the first thing I thought of after testing it. It's been so long since I have used three lugged jacks I had to remember! I think this afternoon I will try a 1.8K for the CLR. See if that does anything. I guess I can live without a LED as I know not all Rangemaster clones have them. It would just be kind of nice! :icon_mrgreen:
If you have a replacement LED to try, might as well touch its legs to the appropriate connections to rule out bad/backwards LED. It'll either blip on, or not, and then you'll know.
Hello,
I have done this layout and I know that there is space to do something wrong...
I used a stereo-input-jack just to connect the negative pole from the battery-clip to its ring,
so that the battery is only engaged with a cable-plug in the input jack...
I installed a DC-jack too, which is disabled when the dc-plug is disconnected.
Sounds difficult but once you got it its really easy and makes sense ;)
I can help you to get your led working, I will post an image for you how to connect it.
Just follow two answers:
Do you have a battery or a dc-jack in your pedal?
Mono or Stereo-Input-jack?
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on December 20, 2013, 04:10:03 PM
Hello,
I have done this layout and I know that there is space to do something wrong...
I used a stereo-input-jack just to connect the negative pole from the battery-clip to its ring,
so that the battery is only engaged with a cable-plug in the input jack...
I installed a DC-jack too, which is disabled when the dc-plug is disconnected.
Sounds difficult but once you got it its really easy and makes sense ;)
I can help you to get your led working, I will post an image for you how to connect it.
Just follow two answers:
Do you have a battery or a dc-jack in your pedal?
Mono or Stereo-Input-jack?
Greetings
Magnus
You rock!!!! ;D I am not going to install a battery clip. I am using a DC jack(Boss type 2.1mm). Stereo jack input. I notice when I touch the cathode of the led to the top middle lug of the 3PDT FS it works but it takes away from the drive of the pedal. Kind of bizarre! Any help would be great. I was just getting ready to box it without a LED. Thanks!!!
Ryan
Hello my friend,
we are going to build it with led ok? 8)
Allright: no battery, only dc-jack ;)
What you have to do:
Please install the resistor R4 (100 Ohm) and the electrolytic capacitor C7 (47uF) as showed in the layout,
it is a filter that eliminates hum from (cheap) wallwarts...
1) Just solder the resistor (R4) to the dc-jack - the easiest way.
2) Then solder the electrolytic capacitor (C7) directly after/on the resistor
with its positive lead (+ = look at the right polarity!) and with the negative lead to negative on the dc-jack (-).
3) From the dc-jack power (after the new resistor from the filter for sure) goes to the board
as shown on the layout and to the led (look at the right led-polarity
and use a led-resistor - R5 - with your preferred value, I use 4,7k).
The other pole (-) from the dc-jack now goes to ground on your input-jack,
you can solder it to the ground lug (I recommend this) or to "ring" (I showed the "ring"-connection with points).
Of course you can use a mono-input-jack because you only need signal and ground.
I painted the green connections in the layout again so that you see better where they go to...
The ground-connection from the switch (green) to activate the led goes to one of your jacks on ground.
The jacks are connected on ground together and to the board too (just follow the layout).
Please make sure that you have installed the 3PDT-switch the right way,
often those 3PDT's are installed wrong and then signal goes lost or the led does not light.
You must be able to see through the lugs when the switch is in front of you, here's an example:
http://gaussmarkov.net/images/1590B_SETUP_GND.bmp
(http://www.abload.de/img/wiring9qslt.jpg)
Please let me know what your pedal is doing ok?
Greetings from Germany
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on December 21, 2013, 01:36:04 PM
Hello my friend,
we are going to build it with led ok? 8)
Allright: no battery, only dc-jack ;)
What you have to do:
Please install the resistor R4 (100 Ohm) and the electrolytic capacitor C7 (47uF) as showed in the layout,
it is a filter that eliminates hum from (cheap) wallwarts...
1) Just solder the resistor (R4) to the dc-jack - the easiest way.
2) Then solder the electrolytic capacitor (C7) directly after/on the resistor
with its positive lead (+ = look at the right polarity!) and with the negative lead to negative on the dc-jack (-).
3) From the dc-jack power (after the new resistor from the filter for sure) goes to the board
as shown on the layout and to the led (look at the right led-polarity
and use a led-resistor - R5 - with your preferred value, I use 4,7k).
The other pole (-) from the dc-jack now goes to ground on your input-jack,
you can solder it to the ground lug (I recommend this) or to "ring" (I showed the "ring"-connection with points).
Of course you can use a mono-input-jack because you only need signal and ground.
I painted the green connections in the layout again so that you see better where they go to...
The ground-connection from the switch (green) to activate the led goes to one of your jacks on ground.
The jacks are connected on ground together and to the board too (just follow the layout).
Please make sure that you have installed the 3PDT-switch the right way,
often those 3PDT's are installed wrong and then signal goes lost or the led does not light.
You must be able to see through the lugs when the switch is in front of you, here's an example:
http://gaussmarkov.net/images/1590B_SETUP_GND.bmp
(http://www.abload.de/img/wiring9qslt.jpg)
Please let me know what your pedal is doing ok?
Greetings from Germany
Magnus
Danke!!! Than you so much good sir! I will be building a couple of these now. I have some great sounding transistors so I thought since it turned out might as well. My first build is without the LED. I finally said forget it! It's on my board so no biggie. Pics here....
http://www.rj-meffects.com/builds-of-the-week.html (http://www.rj-meffects.com/builds-of-the-week.html)
But I will print this response out and put it with the build file. Thanks again for helping me out I do appreciate it! Like I said... I've gotten spoiled with PCB's so this is something totally new for me! Have a good one!
Ryan :icon_biggrin:
Hello Ryan,
I always try to help as much as I can ;)
Nice pedals!
I am working on my third Rangemaster at the moment,
I have built one with an Mullard OC71 in a small (b-type) enclousure,
then one with a Mullard OC44 in a really big enclousure (like the original)
and the third I am working on at the moment is one with a Valvo OC44 in a small enclosure again (b-type)...
I have done some work with perfboard at the beginning years ago but now I always etch pcb's for my builds...
Greetings
Magnus
Hey thanks for the kudos! I would love to see that Range master in the original enclosure! I actually found a new in box Range master style enclosure from that era. I ordered a Pigeon Fx kit and going to try my hand at tag board.:) I would love to build it as close to the original as possible. Thanks again!!!!
Hello,
so here's my first Rangemaster (Type-b-enclousure):
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=92&page=1&sort=pa
...and the big authentic one (TEKO BC2-Enclousure):
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=522&page=1&sort=pa
...and the third I am actually working on:
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=611&page=1&sort=pa
Here's a link to my gallery (6 pages), where you can find my layouts with its pcb-etching-templates
and of course all of my pedals and some more stuff like new old stock capacitors and transistors:
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/index.php?cat=17258&page=1
Be carefull viewing the gallery and take a look at my name "Magnus" on top,
otherwise you can get in other galleries from other users accidently (which is interesting too for sure!) ;)
The gallery is in german, if you have any questions feel free to ask me!
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on December 22, 2013, 03:13:01 PM
Hello,
so here's my first Rangemaster (Type-b-enclousure):
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=92&page=1&sort=pa
...and the big authentic one (TEKO BC2-Enclousure):
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=522&page=1&sort=pa
...and the third I am actually working on:
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=611&page=1&sort=pa
Here's a link to my gallery (6 pages), where you can find my layouts with its pcb-etching-templates
and of course all of my pedals and some more stuff like new old stock capacitors and transistors:
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/index.php?cat=17258&page=1
Be carefull viewing the gallery and take a look at my name "Magnus" on top,
otherwise you can get in other galleries from other users accidently (which is interesting too for sure!) ;)
The gallery is in german, if you have any questions feel free to ask me!
Greetings
Magnus
Wow super clean! I love the second link. I hope you don't mind if I use that as a guide when I end up building mine similar to that?? Question for you if you don't mind me asking... Did you use your on etched PCBs or are those someone else's? I like how clean it is. I've used some of Mark M's boards for Rangemaster projects. I'm working on another one as we speak and going to try and nail it this time with the LED! One more question......:) Notice the thin lines on the diagram? Example would be next to C4. Are this connecting lines or ar e they just showing that the wire is supposed to go over or under that component(s)? Dumb question but I'm working with no schematic to this diagram. Thanks again for all the help. I do appreciate it!!!!
Hello,
thank you :)
You can take my pedal for an inspiration of course - no problem ;)
I have collected many pictures of original Dallas Rangemaster's from the internet
and you can find those pictures on eBay for example, just search on ebay.com for "dallas rangemaster"...
I etch my own pcb's at home and the most of my layouts are selfmade by me and based on the schematics.
Layout, etching, drilling, soldering - its all DIY.
I have never bought a kit or something like that and I learned from making mistakes ;)
If a layout is redrawn and/or changed from an existing layout to my own specifications or for mounting special parts
I have marked it in those layouts, for example with: "based on the ***-layout"...
On the Rangemaster-Layout in this thread there is a connection left to C4,
it is a blue thin line and it is a connection on the upper side of the pcb
(so theres no etched line on the underside of the pcb, because there was no more space), it is a direct connection with wire.
I use the wire of cutted resistors for example - just a short solid wire, its easier to solder than stranded wire...
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on December 25, 2013, 03:38:27 PM
Hello,
thank you :)
You can take my pedal for an inspiration of course - no problem ;)
I have collected many pictures of original Dallas Rangemaster's from the internet
and you can find those pictures on eBay for example, just search on ebay.com for "dallas rangemaster"...
I etch my own pcb's at home and the most of my layouts are selfmade by me and based on the schematics.
Layout, etching, drilling, soldering - its all DIY.
I have never bought a kit or something like that and I learned from making mistakes ;)
If a layout is redrawn and/or changed from an existing layout to my own specifications or for mounting special parts
I have marked it in those layouts, for example with: "based on the ***-layout"...
On the Rangemaster-Layout in this thread there is a connection left to C4,
it is a blue thin line and it is a connection on the upper side of the pcb
(so theres no etched line on the underside of the pcb, because there was no more space), it is a direct connection with wire.
I use the wire of cutted resistors for example - just a short solid wire, its easier to solder than stranded wire...
Greetings
Magnus
Awesome! That helps a lot!!! I actually bought etching supplies and I will give it a go.... :o I bought the kit from Radio Shack here in the states. It has stick on circles, squares, etc.... Any words of advice before I start etching??? :icon_lol: Thanks again!!!!
Quote from: rydog2223 on December 25, 2013, 05:11:30 PM
Any words of advice before I start etching?
I see that RS finally got rid of the awful kit that they used to sell for this purpose. The material they give you can be made to work, though you will have to figure out how to lay down your pattern on the copper. This article:
https://www.smallbearelec.com/HowTos/DirectPCBoards/DirectPCBoards.htm
shows how I did it in the section on Layout using Dry Transfers. It's doable, but kind of a PITA. Most people use some form of direct-to-copper transfer, like Press 'N Peel film. The article also shows how to cut PCB stock to size, which you'll need to do. If you need If you need other tools or materials, check out my Stock List:
http://www.smallbearelec.com/servlet/StoreFront
I'm cheaper than RS for most of what you want, usually better quality, and you'll get knowledgeable help with shopping and sometimes construction.
Hey thanks!!! Will do;) I've been buying all my decal stock from you for my pedal designs. So I am defiantly happy with your business thus far. I've cut the board. Drew up a plan. Measured.... Just checking my P's and Q's before I go nuts. I will use my Dremel for cutting, sanding and drilling. Starting small before I get to multiple IC boards;) thanks again!!!
Hello,
I am working with the "toner-transfer"-method.
I use an iron to apply the (toner-)printed layout to the copper-side of the pcb
and I use ammonium-persulfate to do the etching-process...
You need some patience with pcb-etching,
mostly the first try is not successfull or not as good as expected...
Good luck!
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on December 26, 2013, 07:20:02 AM
Hello,
I am working with the "toner-transfer"-method.
I use an iron to apply the (toner-)printed layout to the copper-side of the pcb
and I use ammonium-persulfate to do the etching-process...
You need some patience with pcb-etching,
mostly the first try is not successfull or not as good as expected...
Good luck!
Greetings
Magnus
Awesome! Thanks so much for all the help! I owe ya one. BTW.... Built another and the LED works perfectly. :icon_wink: Thanks!!!!
Hello,
no problem ;)
Your other build with led works - great!!! 8)
I have soldered my third Rangemaster this evening
and I will put in the transistor and make the test tomorrow :)
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on December 26, 2013, 02:14:48 PM
Hello,
no problem ;)
Your other build with led works - great!!! 8)
I have soldered my third Rangemaster this evening
and I will put in the transistor and make the test tomorrow :)
Greetings
Magnus
It does! Thanks again. Awesome on the builds! It's Range Master crazy! Just got my kit from Pigeon today. I gotta figure out how wire up a LED or even a bulb to the DPDT switch. This is the one going in the vintage correct enclosure. I gotta look at your pics again!
Quote from: rydog2223 on December 26, 2013, 03:02:30 PM
I gotta figure out how wire up a LED or even a bulb to the DPDT switch.
If you like the RM (and what is not to like!), please consider building an Oh My Darlington:
https://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/OhMyDarling/OhMyDarling.htm
It can be done fairly cheaply if you paint the enclosure yourself and hand-wire on perf, and my design eliminates numerous problems with the original. The OMD is negative-ground, has a battery door and a faux-variable input cap to adjust the tone. If you go with using Molex connectors for the off-board wiring as I did, the likelihood of mistakes goes down A lot. I just heard from a guy who bought one fully-assembled, and he's more than happy.
Quote from: smallbearelec on December 26, 2013, 06:04:20 PM
Quote from: rydog2223 on December 26, 2013, 03:02:30 PM
I gotta figure out how wire up a LED or even a bulb to the DPDT switch.
If you like the RM (and what is not to like!), please consider building an Oh My Darlington:
https://www.smallbearelec.com/Projects/OhMyDarling/OhMyDarling.htm
It can be done fairly cheaply if you paint the enclosure yourself and hand-wire on perf, and my design eliminates numerous problems with the original. The OMD is negative-ground, has a battery door and a faux-variable input cap to adjust the tone. If you go with using Molex connectors for the off-board wiring as I did, the likelihood of mistakes goes down A lot. I just heard from a guy who bought one fully-assembled, and he's more than happy.
Awesome! I will do that indeed. Looks very interesting. Just finished up the Pigeon FX RM. Very nice. Hey two questions....
1. Do you have a email that I can contact you through?
2. Do you or anyone else know of the face plate or overlay that I can put on my clone. At least to label on/off, input, etc....?
Thanks so much!:)
Quote from: rydog2223 on December 26, 2013, 10:28:25 PM
1. Do you have a email that I can contact you through?
I'm at smallbearelec@ix.netcom.com
Quote from: rydog2223 on December 26, 2013, 10:28:25 PM
2. Do you or anyone else know of the face plate or overlay that I can put on my clone. At least to label on/off, input, etc....?
You already know how to use decal stock, right? That's how I would go about creating a faceplate.
Hello,
I would not install a led to your vintage-style-build from pigeon,
maybe its possible with a dpdt but the original doesn't have an led.
The battery will last very long without an led in the Rangemaster-circuit.
I wired my Rangemaster in the big authentic enclousure with true-bypass,
thats what I have used the DPDT-switch for...
I used a nice brown phenolic-board, printed my layout as a template,
drilled holes in it and soldered the components directly under the board.
So its build "point to point" without etching.
Here's my layout (without led but with true-bypass, positive-ground):
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/17258/MOJO-Rangemaster.jpg (http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/albums/userpics/17258/MOJO-Rangemaster.jpg)
The small Rangemaster-Layout at the beginning of this thread
is a negative-ground-version, so theres no problem with daisy-chaining it with other pedals
and if you use a dc-jack (like we both did) theres no problem with a battery-power-sucking led ;)
I installed "low-current" led's in my two small (type-b-enclousure-) Rangemaster-builds,
just in case if I have to take the pedal with me and have to use a battery...
The "Oh My Darlington" seems to be very interesting!
I have read this article some years ago, maybe I will build it in future
but at the moment there are still too much pedals waiting for their enclousures :icon_confused:
For a decal-design take a look at this thread,
there is a design you can customize for your taste...
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=77025.0
...and the thread itself is interesting to read too ;)
What capacitor did you order with the pigeon-kit?
The Hunts-capacitor is the more interesting one because its a rare part.
The Styroflex is a good capacitor too but nothing special and still manufactured.
I have some Hunts-capacitors here but they all have much too high tolerance in capacity.
If you have ordered the Hunts-capacitor with your kit it would be interesting to know
what capacity it really has - maybe you can measure it with a multimeter?
If you already have build the kit and would like to measure the capacitor
you just have to desolder one connection of the capacitor
to get it out of the circuit - then you can measure it...
Its always a good deal to select those parts with higher tolerance with a multimeter ;)
Greetings
Magnus
Cool thanks my man! Yeah... After looking at the original designs I see they did not have a LED. For some reason I was thinking that they did.... ??? Thanks for the info on the graphics! Oh and mine came with the Styroflex caps. I have a few in stock as well. I have to check and see what values they are again. Thanks again for all the info!!
Hello,
I finished my Rangemaster some days ago, sounds really nice :)
...and today I made pictures of it, here's a link to the gallery:
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=611&page=1&sort=pa
...and I posted it in the picture-thread here in the forum:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.23260
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on December 30, 2013, 10:48:08 AM
Hello,
I finished my Rangemaster some days ago, sounds really nice :)
...and today I made pictures of it, here's a link to the gallery:
http://forum.musikding.de/cpg/thumbnails.php?album=611&page=1&sort=pa
...and I posted it in the picture-thread here in the forum:
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.23260
Greetings
Magnus
Awesome! This actually helps a lot! I am working on another perf build and etched a board as well. Funny because the one I am working on at the moment is the black glass OC44 type.;) For some reason the perf build is giving me grief. I decided to go with the two mono jacks. I'm thinking it may be the switch. It was a older one I had that has had some heat put on it a time or two. I love the overlays as well!! :icon_biggrin:
Hello,
thank you :)
Perfboard is always a challenge, even if you have done it several times,
you always have to mirror up- and downside of the pcb in mind or print a template...
...and it sucks more solder - reasons why I don't do it anymore.
The OC44 is a real good sounding transistor if you have one with good hFe/low leakage
but the OC71 has its own nice charakter too, I don't know which one I like more but hey - now I've got 'em all ;D
Yes, two mono-jacks are the best way if you don't need a battery...
Damaged switch, too much heat - thats possible...
You can measure the switch with a multimeter - just use the signal checker for the connections.
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on December 30, 2013, 12:59:14 PM
Hello,
thank you :)
Perfboard is always a challenge, even if you have done it several times,
you always have to mirror up- and downside of the pcb in mind or print a template...
...and it sucks more solder - reasons why I don't do it anymore.
The OC44 is a real good sounding transistor if you have one with good hFe/low leakage
but the OC71 has its own nice charakter too, I don't know which one I like more but hey - now I've got 'em all ;D
Yes, two mono-jacks are the best way if you don't need a battery...
Damaged switch, too much heat - thats possible...
You can measure the switch with a multimeter - just use the signal checker for the connections.
Greetings
Magnus
Thanks man! Yeah it seems to trace just fine.... One thing. I do jump the + of C6 to the base of R2, right? Thanks so much!!
Hello,
on the layout the quarter on the right side of the electrolytic C6 marks its positive (+) side,
from there it goes one hole up than to the left side till theres a thin blue line - yes this is a solder bridge to R2 / R1 ;)
I soldered this bridge under the pcb with solid wire which I isolated with some heatshrink, man - this was really difficult ;D
...you can use simple stranded wire to bridge it - just a small noose (that the isolation does not melt) will do it ;)
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on December 30, 2013, 03:05:07 PM
Hello,
on the layout the quarter on the right side of the electrolytic C6 marks its positive (+) side,
from there it goes one hole up than to the left side till theres a thin blue line - yes this is a solder bridge to R2 / R1 ;)
I soldered this bridge under the pcb with solid wire which I isolated with some heatshrink, man - this was really difficult ;D
...you can use simple stranded wire to bridge it - just a small noose (that the isolation does not melt) will do it ;)
Greetings
Magnus
You rock!! Thank you :icon_biggrin:
Magnus.... I will now attempt to use your Colorsound One Knob Fuzz diagram. Any pointers when it comes to this guy? I've built a couple of Meathead clones so I am guessing kind of the same concept. Thanks again for all the help!! :icon_wink:
Hello Ryan,
I could not send you a private message at diystompboxes
to answer your questions you asked in your pn - there appers an error message - really annoying!
So I will answer here in this thread:
Sorry, I don't have images of the finished pedal because I have just wired
the pcb out of the box some weeks ago and I still have to finish the box.
But the layout is verified and it works perfect...
Maybe your transistors have a too less hFe.
You can try 2N5088 for sure, any npn-transistor would be a choice for it...
My transistor-setup is the following (based on the original pedal):
Q1 - BC109C, hfe = 580
Q2 - BC108A, hFe = 200
The first transistor has a higher hFe than the second.
Good luck!
Greetings
Magnus
Quote from: Magnus on January 01, 2014, 03:18:39 PM
Hello Ryan,
I could not send you a private message at diystompboxes
to answer your questions you asked in your pn - there appers an error message - really annoying!
So I will answer here in this thread:
Sorry, I don't have images of the finished pedal because I have just wired
the pcb out of the box some weeks ago and I still have to finish the box.
But the layout is verified and it works perfect...
Maybe your transistors have a too less hFe.
You can try 2N5088 for sure, any npn-transistor would be a choice for it...
My transistor-setup is the following (based on the original pedal):
Q1 - BC109C, hfe = 580
Q2 - BC108A, hFe = 200
The first transistor has a higher hFe than the second.
Good luck!
Greetings
Magnus
Thanks Magnus!! I replied via email and it looks like I have a PM from you as well. Thanks again!!!