I find in summerhouse soviet volume pedal and japan sewing machine pedal.
Pictures
https://picasaweb.google.com/114173826542939437219/SovietVolumePedalAndJapanSewingMachinePedal?noredirect=1 (https://picasaweb.google.com/114173826542939437219/SovietVolumePedalAndJapanSewingMachinePedal?noredirect=1)
Idea is to fix volume pedal way that I can us it with guitar.
Trying to figure out how old scheme works.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-ZW3lpTZ6csk/U6wyYGMPDII/AAAAAAAAA6w/H_rGX6xB96M/s512/Sketch%2520volume%2520pedal.jpg)
What to do with sewing pedal?
Wah wah, fuzz wah or expresion pedal?
I have never done something like this.
My two and so far only guitar effect builds failed
This might help:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Morley%20opto%20pedal.jpg)
As far as the sewing machine pedal goes....I would use it for a sewing machine.
If you've tried to build two guitar effects and failed.... wait until you get a few working builds under your belt before you take on the job of retrofitting a sewing machine pedal into a useable guitar effect.
For sewing machine pedal there is no sewing machine only pedal.
Pedal owner passed away. I was told that she had some motor and human powered belt transfer sewing machine.
I never find the motor. Saw the human powered belt transfer sewing machine few times.
Even his son have never seen the motor. She thinked that she can combine motor, pedal and sewing machine.
I think that it didn't work out very well. I'm not sure if the motor was even meant for pedal control.
Soviet volume pedal inside
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-pCUB3BAO_y0/U6seMS0321I/AAAAAAAAA3g/wXdlbwn6etg/s576/IMG_1264.JPG)
Since it incorporates a DIN connector for powering the bulb and for carrying the audio? signal through whatever is connected to the green wires, (probably a photo resistor) I would imagine that this was a control pedal for a keyboard.
There is missing information on this pedal. Let's start with voltage requirement to achieve a volume effect with the LDR.
Are there any specification marking on this thing?
Update:
After I wrote the above, I googled Mahyan soviet pedal. This is what I found.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/soviet%20keyboard.JPG)
If you want to make a volume pedal for guitar out of this thing...what I would do is gut the pedal, start from scratch with a LED, photo resistor, a known power source (9 volts) and be done with it. The pedal is already set up with a shutter mechanism...so you're half way there.
That synth for pedal still exist.
Synth is awully dead. Keys are jammed and electronics oxidized.
I think that I need bypass power switch for volume pedal.
Too bad if guitar will be too quiet and i'm not using volume pedal.
an awfully dead synth would be a great source of parts, like pots and transistors and maybe transformers. how badly is the insides, can you gets a hold of the dead synth, and can we see?
you don't get many of those roller-type knobs these days, nor those giant rocker switches.
Pedal is not made for this synth. I think that volume pedal was used with this synth.
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-nl0zw0hpwKQ/U7BLNxQFI2I/AAAAAAAAA8s/KA37EZfbQ0s/s720/IMG_1313.JPG)
I took volume pedal electronics out. Ther is two walls with holes in. On side of wall is lamp and another photocell. Center the shutter.
(https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-B1RboRRSEUA/U7BLUkFYB4I/AAAAAAAAA9Q/bImABssRiXA/s576/IMG_1343.JPG)
Photoresistor is weird for me.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-qQrpkhuPj1k/U7BLVJ2pXNI/AAAAAAAAA9U/0zF_xzyZsfQ/s720/IMG_1345.JPG)
Can I use regular modern photoresistor? I'm not sure. I think that Power for lamp is missing. There are unused lamp socket and din jack pins
More pictures https://plus.google.com/photos/114173826542939437219/albums/6030402597002587009
I figured out how the soviet scheme was
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-H45PLCLB7MA/U7WjHoRlcSI/AAAAAAAABCg/17gm9M4N3EU/s576/scan0005%2520ink%2520edit%2520digital.jpg)
My new idea
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-a-it4HcU75g/U7WjF_WUhbI/AAAAAAAABCU/lxulrpgyiHI/s576/scan0007.jpg)
(https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-8371XL4_LF4/U7WjHvTR9II/AAAAAAAABCk/4quow8HvNH0/s576/scan0005.jpg)
Idea is based on this
(http://www.beavisaudio.com/Projects/Looper-Switcher/Volume-Attenuator-Wiring-Diagram.png)
and this
(http://i1128.photobucket.com/albums/m492/guitarpoet1/dearm_vol_zps4dcf10f6.gif)
Replaceing the pot with photoresistor I get it optical.
I don't know how to scale images on this forum.
when you click the (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/Themes/diytheme/images/bbc/img.gif) button, you get tags like [img][/img]. you just gotta add so they look like [img height=xxx] your image here as usual [/img] and put a suitable smallness for "xxx".
as for you optical, you need a second resistor in series with the LDR. the centre point of the new R and the LDR is the "wiper" connection of your volume control, top end to signal, bottom end to ground
??? Now I need to find out what resistor for what LDR.
Then I can buy all parts and test it out..
If I have 10k LDR I Need 10k resistor?
I can replace 100k ohm pote with 100k LDR?
Is this right or i'm getting wrong ?
Everything you need to know to set this enclosure up as a volume pedal is included in the schematic that I posted in reply #1.
The schematic is a volume pedal using an LED/LDR combo and a shutter arrangement just like your pedal.
My dead pedal used LDR, DIN, mini lightbulb that for sure. What is that thing between DIN and LDR I dont know?
I don't get it what LDR morley scheme uses. For my pedal there is too many LDR and LED
For anyone who thinks that this pedal had more than LDR, DIN, mini lightbulb
There is my pedal scheme without shutter. In that morley scheme I find 12k resistor for led and 400-850k LDR.
(https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3lat3_2TCFU/U7mlWt_MvfI/AAAAAAAABDg/2p3ZvRJnySk/s576/scan0005%2520ink%2520edit%2520digital%25202%2520fix.jpg)
I'm learning. I don't know much about electronics.
I am aware what the original pedal used to accomplish the end result....a volume pedal but....the original circuit was for a keyboard.
The Morley circuit I posted is a known, working circuit for guitar. I mentioned early on to "gut" (remove) the original circuit because there were too many unknowns.
The Morley circuit has two LED/LDR combos. (the third is just an indicator LED)
Unless I'm wrong, I believe that the LDR to ground attenuates the signal in a more linear fashion.
You can try to use a basic circuit like this to see if it works:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/53299166/DIYstompboxes/Volume%20LED-LDR.jpg)
I would use a 5mm green diffused LED, and a fairly fast response LDR with low to high resistance.
http://www.taydaelectronics.com/resistors/photoresistors.html
The trimmer TR1 is to dial in the response of the LED/LDR for optimum control.
death, there is plenty of how-to-ldr in this datasheet, it is well worth a look:
http://www.datasheetcatalog.org/datasheet/perkinelmer/VT500.pdf
Armdnrdy that is what I was thinking. I dind't know what type of LDR, led and reistor to use.
I'm thinking to also use DPDT switch. Don't want to have low volume If I don't use the pedal.
As Estonian who lives in estonia I can easly buy http://www.tme.eu/ products from another dealer.
They only sell maximum 600nm LDRs
Look through these data sheets:
http://www.tme.eu/en/katalog/optoelectronics-and-light-sources_100327/#id_category=100141&page=1&products_with_stock=on&s_field=artykul&s_order=ASC
to find a low Ω on, to high Ω off photo resistor with a fast response.
You may have to purchase a few different photo resistors and LEDs (sizes and colors) to experiment with.
This is not an exact science...it takes some experimenting to find a combination that works for what you want.
I know dumb question. What that LX means. Light Multiply ? Example if I have 10 multiply light it cuts 33kΩ.
So My idea of that I can replace pote with LDR not working? Example 100Kohm pot replaced with maximum lx 100kohm LDR.
Forget about Lux. You do not have a lux meter and have no way of knowing the Lux amount that the LDR will see toe down or heal down on the pedal.
That is why I stated that you have to experiment. The resistance of any given model LDR varies greatly.
Find a LDR low on resistance (Ω or low KΩ) and high off resistance (MΩ)
Many thanks to all. Now it's time to buy and test out.
I post pictures and videos if it works or I have some problems( I think there not going to be any).
> What that LX means.
"Lux".
Back when I was a small boy, there were still candles made of Whale oil.
Before that, for scientific work, there was a carefully specified whale oil candle. The light from it, at one Foot distance, was "one foot-candle".
This wasn't very precise, or convenient. Electronic methods took over.
It does not relate to other basic measurements. The Metric System has been organized so units agree.
The modern unit of light intensity is the Lux.
Typical Lux values:
Living room ---- 100 Lux
Good workbench -- 1,000 Lux
Direct sunlight - 50,000 Lux
You measure this with a Lux Meter.
You do not have one. But maybe the chart above gives an idea of how many Lux in different situations.
Photo-Resistors are "mostly" used with "dim" light. Dusk-dawn lighting controls. Flame sensors in furnaces. Small lamps. Rarely anything as bright as direct sunlight. So Photo Resistor specifications usually cover the 1 Lux - 1,000 Lux range or a bit more.
> you have to experiment
EXCELLENT advice.
These are app notes and suggestions, I found out more after working with LDR's [etc] on some builds.
I preamble by the suggestion: consider and experiment with 'does 'it' matter'' [is there a difference with X scenario, and importantly..if so..which approach is preferrable to your application]...
What will be driving the LDR / do the differences of the LDR compared to the volume pot matter?...
Is compensation or even some EQ effect desirable or not? [might be fun to try out.
Including a direct signal bypass switch makes it easier to find out 'what matters', [and is great for direct vs. effect signal comparisons during experimentation :icon_cool:].
2 LDR in parallel = goes to lower R than one LDR, [or a fixed R in parallel will create a different R curve [reduced max and minimum R].
Because 9V will be right there at the lamp makes an inviting house for an allpass or frequency compensated booster..
Adding or subtracting a cap across the LDR is easy as *solder one end to an LDR lead, touch or clip it across the LDR to try that out.
Note that I have a history of contributing to stompbox building addiction, and have every confidence you'll soon have a cool volume pedal.
I got all the electronic parts for the pedal.
I find out that the bestway for testing photoresistors. I need to make test rig.
I just use clamp cables and 9v battery with resistor and led inside the volume pedal enclosure.
First I need to shield the box inside. I think that aluminum tape works. If this helps to protect from breaking parts when they accidentaly connect with metal box.