DIYstompboxes.com

Well i finally got it together after months of breadboarding and tinkering, and learning eagle...phew.. ::)

special thanks to samhay and slacker for their help with the levels.  8)

introducing ''ABDUCTOR DELAY II''

get the popcorn out.. :P



here is the build PDF.

which includes BOM,SCHEMO,DRILL TEMPLATE, BOARD LAYOUT, ..everything you need to build this mutha of delays... 8)

https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/ABDUCTOR%20II%20DELAY.pdf

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/delaypcb1.jpg)

pcbs will be available on my site. i will sort out a link here later ok.  :)

note: the volume controls the overall level when on or bypassed.
it was meant to control the delay levels only, but a quick random tinker in eagle and i ended up with that. ;D
its not an issue as you can set n forget to your normal level anyway..... enjoy.. 8)



PCB LINK. :  http://deadastronaut.wix.com/index

Pretty nifty.  As much as I don't need another delay, I'll be buying a PCB when they're available.

NEED THIS! Awesome work Rob. Your designs are always epic.

cheers guys...it was a lot of late nights n whiskey

but got there in the end.. ;)

Awesome, I'll have to check this out when I get home tonight!

MUST.  RESIST.

MUST.  RESIST.

:

:

:


(http://i.imgur.com/AIEEh11.jpg)     . . . Ker-ching!



Oh, bugger...

Will your pricing change any for orders more than 1 PCB?  Looks like it is set up for 11GBP per PCB with shipping. 

Damn, Rob, next month...have to finish 3 boxes before...
sounds really great.
And now double delaytime please  ;D

Just watch the demand for pt2399s skyrocket now ;D hopefully it doesn't become the next unobtanium mojo part :o

Nice one Rob - can see why you figured the individual levels was worth the effort.

Another work of art from the master.

Quote from: samhay on March 20, 2015, 09:05:03 AM
Nice one Rob - can see why you figured the individual levels was worth the effort.

yeah definitely, with subtle settings of the different levels you can get nice
verby sounds too,,..very cool, love it....thanks again for your input man.. 8)

What size box is it designed for? I know you mentioned it before but I can't seem to find it now... I'm probably going to go 1 size up anyway but I wasn't sure.

i used a 1590BB

i had to get the drill holes bang on, and remove the pot condoms to get it all in there.. :)

Quote from: deadastronaut on March 20, 2015, 11:31:08 AM
i used a 1590BB

i had to get the drill holes bang on, and remove the pot condoms to get it all in there.. :)

Ok thanks, 1590xx it is for me then!

Nicely done, Rob!  Sounds awesome!  Truly innovative!

Quote from: deadastronaut on March 20, 2015, 09:55:32 AM
...thanks again for your input man.. 8)

No worries - always fun to be involved in one of these moon landing-scale projects.

It sounds incredible, am I hearing a VCA on the signal start on some of the samples?

Super well done! Love those three chips lined up like that

DA-I just ordered a PCB using the PayPal link on your website. It didn't give me a choice of "gift". Let me know if PP charges you a fee and I'll reimburse you. Thx. JD

Damn man, this one diffinitly isn't from the Eearth!
Neat work Rob.

Sound really unique.
just to understand...

PT1 ---> PT2 & PT3 (in parallel) ---> PT4

...right ?

the "long" switch it's like an echo to delay or what ?

Man, LOVE the flashing blue eyes on the alien!  LFO rate, I assume?  Sounds great, too!

Great project DA.
Love the possibilitys.
Maybe one day in the future I'll build it. Defo going with your pcb though. Don't fancy doing it on perfboard.
Sterling delay.

cheers guys

@john : no worries man:

@stephen , no vca:

@electricco:

pt,s 1,2,3,4 all joined through current mirroring to make one long delay..

then each pt is 'tapped' to give half the timing of the previous pt...

then all delays are modulated too....schemo on pdf. :)


: the 'extra' time switch was a bonus to squeeze out as much time as possible without it turning nasty...

time pot is 2M and the switch adds a 2.2M in series with it for the 'extra' time.


@jdub: yep lfo pulsing eyes...had to do it.  8)


now i'm off to float around in space again for a while till the next project.....beep............................................beep......................................... ;D

 Now, this is the coolest thing I saw all week!  :icon_eek: Congratulations!

Absolutely stunning!  I just recently purchased a TC Electronic Alter Ego X4, and I'm seriously thinking of selling it and building this instead.  I could literally spend hours exploring the sonic possibilities of this pedal.  Bravo!   :icon_biggrin:

cheers man... 8) 8) 8)

This looks amazing! I was just designing a delay the same day that you posted this, and you gave me some great ideas. I might still have to get this though! Top notch.

Quote from: deadastronaut on March 22, 2015, 07:41:45 AM
cheers guys

@stephen , no vca:

OK, maybe I'm being thick here but what is causing the violining - or is it you on the guitar volume control? I can't see anything on the circuit to cause it. :icon_cry:

Ha ha, no, its guitar swells using guitar vol... ;).

Quote from: deadastronaut on March 22, 2015, 07:26:30 PM
Ha ha, no, its guitar swells using guitar vol... ;).

But we can't have people using tricks here!!!

I,ll get my coat then.. ;D

I'm curious Rob. How are the PT2399s "tapped" to get half of the timing of the previous chip? Does it have to do with the signal coming off of pin 14 of each chip, or does it have something to do with R23 and R44?

The PC board came in today- it's beautiful, a work of art! This build has to move up the list now  :D

Nice one russ...glad it arrived safely..

looking forward to seeing others builds... 8)

Quote from: deadastronaut on April 02, 2015, 02:55:31 AM
looking forward to seeing others builds... 8)

What?  And spoil my backlog?   :D

Nice one, I'll be looking at this one for sure.

A head cold put me off hearing the demo until now (buggers the hearing up). Rob, it sounds gorgeous. The ambience reminds me of the Comsat Angels "Sleep no more" period (probably the only '80s band I still listen to).
Hmmm... there should be a pedal called the Comsat Angel.

One of those PT2399's is really old? The one you can easily read the print on.

my PCB made it to the USA today.  is the an easy way to fix the vol to control the delay only?

Nope....there is plenty of adjustment on the individual delay levels anyway....

over unity for sure...

glad it arrived ok man. ... 8)

thanks for the reply.  i really did not even pay much attention to the layout.  i focused mostly on your sound sample.  just took a look at the build PDF better.  that is a lot of pots on there.  which did you use to have such clean wiring?  have any pictures of the other pot side?  9 pots and a switch up top and little to no visible wires. 

hi new,

i'm in the process of clearing out my long suffering, spluttering pc and updating to win7 at the moment

so my dropbox is offline, until i sort it out i haven't any more pics to put up..


all the wires for pots are on 3 strand ribbon cable, (which i love using) under the pcb....normal 16mm pots. (i had to remove the plastic pot covers)

same as leds / footswitch wiring too, jus makes a neater job of it. the switch acts as a holder for the pcb too..

rob.

I have one Abductor mostly put together with another one yet to build as part of a trade. This is a fabulous circuit, fun for everyone. Thanks again Rob! I'll post pics on this thread when it is completely finished, just a few things left to do.

Are there still boards available? I'd like one but paypal link on your site doesn't seem to work.

Hi, yes boards are still available,    the site seems ok at my end.....

Rob..

A couple questions, on my build the speed pot seems to work backwards eg CW is slower CCW is faster, is the board designed that way to afford a better sweep of the pot? Maybe I just wired it backwards. I'm getting some noise coming through even on bypass which may just be a function of my not so great offboard wiring (and there's a lot of it) it seems to be more prevalent when delay 1 vol is turned up. would that effect the bypass signal though? I'll try changing out PTs just wondering if anyone else has experienced anything similar.

Yep the speed pot is wired backwards...to get better range without having to order re erse logs...

as for noise, i haven,t had that issue at all...bypass should be clean especially.....

Just label your speed pot "Delay". Then its turning the correct way

Chop done

Quote from: deadastronaut on April 21, 2015, 08:57:33 AM
Yep the speed pot is wired backwards...to get better range without having to order re erse logs...

as for noise, i haven,t had that issue at all...bypass should be clean especially.....

Ok I figured as much with the pot. I'll do some probing for the noise, maybe a bad cap or something. I have another one to build so we'll see how that one sounds.

I removed the pt2399 and the static noise didn't go away so I poked around a bit with an audio probe. It is not noisy after C5 (input cap) but it becomes staticky at pin 1 of IC5. Pin 1 and 7 are the only pins the probe picks any signal up on that IC. The north end of R4 and south end of R5 also have no signal. Shouldn't there be signal at the north end of R4?
If you want me to take my troubleshooting elsewhere I can start a new thread. I'm hoping this shouldn't be too tough to sort out. I should probably post voltages but I can't find my meter right now, will do that when I find it if necessary.

hi luke, no probs put any issues here ok...it may help others too.

yes there should definitely be signal at north end of R4 it goes to pin 2 ic5 for sure...thats the input...there should also be plenty at pin 1  ic5..

IC5 is for input and output section...which gets tapped/switched to delay after pin 1 IC5.

wrong value maybe?..should be 470k's..for R4/5

That's what I thought. They are definitely  470k. I'll take the board out of the box tonight and check for solder bridges/ bad joints. It's odd that there seems to be an issue so early in the circuit yet it works other than the noise...

Ok I found my multimeter and voltages look good in IC 5 I again removed all the pt 2399s to confirm that I am not just getting noise from them and I am not. They do effect it but the noise is at a constant level but the "floor" increases with delay time increase and also when turning up the individual delay lines (with the ICs installed). The noise is a constant "static" or "white noise" I'm wondering if I should start replacing electros?
Here are some pics of my board
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g429/Mandoluke/D9F3DA96-3990-40EF-9648-F493E8558B62_zps4cvbi28l.jpg)
(http://i1101.photobucket.com/albums/g429/Mandoluke/3405D5A7-68C1-40CD-BD0F-F7170B900EA7_zpsvojrlz4z.jpg)

Back at it. Static is still present. I socketed the ic and tried others to no avail. The staic is starting at pin 1 of IC5 it's present when on and bypassed and with pt2399s removed. It's much louder in long delay mode but I think the delay line is just cascading the static. The volume doesn't affect the static level. I socketed the jfet, removed it, tried another, no help. Removed C1 I think (100uf filter cap) and replaced it no change, I might try replacing other electros but I don't think that's it since the static is still present with no pt2399. Where does static come from? I'm kinda lost... I might just finish the second one and hope the problem doesn't persist.

The volume should affect everything.,,its an overall vol...
so theresc definitely an issue somewhere, i just dont get how your getting static from the input onwards..

very srtrange....baffled...hmmmm... : ???

just notiiced, no leds...stick those on....

speed, and time should only have 2 wires on pots too...

ill, dig mine out and  take a look om....

I haven't tried a differen regulator or just removing it, maybe that's injecting noise... That and replacing more caps. I haven't thoroughly checked all the values to make sure they are correct but I don't think most of them would effect where the noise is entering.

This will be a fairly noisey circuit - how much noise do you get, is it louder than a quiet strum?

If you get static with all 4 PT2399s pulled then it is coming from the analogue side - IC5A and 5B - and you can leave the regulator alone (probably). As DA said, the volume should be able to turn this noise off, so if it doesn't, I would suspect you have a grounding problem.

As an aside, you won't get signal at the inverting inputs of an op-amp as these are virtual grounds.

It's pretty noisy even in bypass. All the pots are wired offboard. I'll try to tame the excess length on the second build. It's louder than it should be and since it is entering so early in the circuit the pt2399s are just amplifying it. But, it's constant noise the repeats don't effect it. I don't have the extra ground pad connected to anything but I jumper end it with an alligator clip and it doesn't make a difference. Maybe my offboard wiring to the pots is causing it... It just seems like there are very few things it could be since the dry signal path is very short.

Also the noise is no longer affected much by the individual delay line volumes, just the overall delay time.

.015v at pin 4 of ic5 the ground pad at the bottom of the board the same. The ground at the top of the board reads 0.00 I'm going to hardwire the ground at the bottom to my star ground and see if that does anything.

Ok that may have helped a little but there is still quite a bit of noise.

luke:

popped mine open for ya!..,  ( definitely no noise at all man)

if you take a look at my build ,  

time pot only has pads 2-1 connected on pcb..

speed pot only has pads 2-1 connected on pcb.

depth pot only has pads 3-2 connected on pcb.

you seem to have all 3 on each.......so snip those off.

remember: speed is wired backwards for better response...

you also don't have the leds wired up either... led for switching and lfo...

here are my in/out readings

IC5: in/out..

1:4.61v
2:4.61v
3:3.77v
4:0.00
5:4.58v
6:4.61v
7:4.59v
8:9.15v

all working as it should be man.......


i confused myself earlier, i had delay on my mixer so when i bypassed the abductor i still had delay...i was like wtf?....

then spotted it.....need more coffee... ::)

Ok maybe those extra wires are acting like an antenna, I'll try that. On my ic power and ground check out, all other pins at exactly 4.5 except pin 3 which is 4.4 I see that's a lot different than your pin 3 maybe there's something suspect there?

Thought I figured it out but I was wrong. I snipped those wires you mentioned and tried an lm833 but the noise is still there. It's not too bad when I turned the volume to unity, it gets much worse above that. It's good enough for myself but I'm making one for a friend so hopefully the second one will be better, maybe I just need some time off to come back and spot the obvious problem at a later date.

I built this and was having a similar issue (made the same wiring "errors"). I added an extra wire from the sleeve of the out jack to a ground point and that took care of 80% of the hiss. It's only audible if I really crank all of the respective volumes. Super fun pedal!!!!!!

Hey Rob-

Since the Time pot is labeled "lin", does that mean you used log/audio pots for the other eight controls?

hi john...

speed, and voll are ''A''

all others are 'B'

Quote from: deadastronaut on May 19, 2015, 02:51:15 AM
hi john...

speed, and voll are ''A''

all others are 'B'

Got it-thanks!!!

You must have a wrong component,....

I dont think even the debugging thread can help......hmmmmm.....

Quote from: deadastronaut on May 22, 2015, 02:24:42 AM
You must have a wrong component,....

I dont think even the debugging thread can help......hmmmmm.....

Who?

Is Rob sleep posting again?   ::)

Or posting while inebriated.    :o

Time Warp... :icon_wink:

Thats weird, there was really long religious posts from a nutter.....now theyve gone?..

twilight zone...do do do do...do do do do......strange...

Spam from Mars?

Yeah i guess... ghosts in the machine that eat spam...whilst talking crap.

HI i just bought your pcb and was wondering if this parts list:

Quote from: deadastronaut on March 05, 2014, 08:33:01 AM
ldr?.. voltage reg is 78l05 to92.

here ya go..

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/bom%20abductor%20delay.jpg)

you will have to count ...as i just copy and paste as i go..just how i work.

is the same for Abductor ii ?? or ... no ??
thanks for reply 

Hi croopy, the build pdf is on page 1 of this thread.

or download from my site..see link below.  8)

Thank you :)
I did see the part list, just found it a bit hard to tally up the parts with out printing it out, I am just lazy i guess :)
Thanks again for a great project, I have some pt2399 ordered and a hot impatience iron
:)

@Luke51411 i noticed in your build pic that you have also left out resistor "clr" 4.7k hope this helps

i noticed that you have used a mix of metal film and "normal" sandy colored, are the metal film following the music signal path ? or just random ??
thanks for any reply :)   

Got 'er done!  Thanks Rob!  Sounds great!

Quote from: Jdansti on June 06, 2015, 03:30:04 AM
Here's my Abductor II delay developed by Deadastronaut. He did a great job on this. I used his PCB and it worked straight off without any troubleshooting.

I went with a tongue in cheek Star Trek theme on photo paper with a coat of Envirotex on top.  The LEDs are under the photo paper.

(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/9FCC98F5-547B-45EF-B4AE-F674B4FEBAE7.jpg)

(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/C107BC2F-0E79-4F8D-BAD5-FEEDC6530F64.jpg)


(http://i1160.photobucket.com/albums/q485/jdansti/6D57D2C4-A521-41B4-A77D-242CC8C3EA9D.jpg)

Here's a video showing the LED action. Sorry for the low quality of the video.

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg1022908#msg1022908

Thats brilliant, love how youve done the eyes....col.. 8)

Thanks, Rob.

Never mind these stupid "Like" buttons...  where's the "feckin' brilliant" button when you need one?  ;o)

Thanks Marc, but the brilliance is all Rob's!  There are very few DIY designs that offer better features than you can find in store bought pedals, and this one is at the top of the list!

You'll make him blush!   :D

 :icon_redface:

you guys.... 8)

I had an idea looking over your schematic, would it be possible to use your pt2399 configuration to "expand" other pt2399 driven delays ?
Ie make a daughter board that is connected to a pcb were the original pt2399 was, may be tweakable as well??

might be a bit difficult as a 'drop in' for an existing delay

because of the ''time'' pot, and transistors coming off each pin 6...

i did consider making a modular version, where you could add ''slot in'' additional pt2399 boards,

but at the end of the day how long do you want it....hmmmmmm...

may as well get a looper ha ha.. :icon_wink:

Endless plz!!! lol
Well i was thinking over maybe a 2 chip design, that would give "double delay" times i guess.

i like your expansion card idea, ping pong out put for stereo effects maybe ?

Sound sample Abductor II Delay.
Enjoy

Can't play the video.  Try changing "https" to "http".

Quote from: Jdansti on June 27, 2015, 05:09:09 PM
Can't play the video.  Try changing "https" to "http".

works/plays for me.

Now I can play it. Strange.

Sounds great!  God job!

Single Layer Version.

Nice one...man that must,ve been a headache to get on 1 layer..

i remember doing the abductor 1 on 1 layer....lots of swearing and coffee... ;D

good job man... 8)

Thanks Rob...  ;D :D
Abductor II very cool....

still made an impression on the head when I made the layout abductor delay 1 layer, so spend a lot of cigarettes and coffee was particularly draining imagination, thanks to Mr. Rob from deadastronaut and kang Mas h4r1 (http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?action=profile;u=37495) which then determines the layout of pot for all at the center, very cool you all

Thanks Arya79....  ;D :D 8)

What is the difference between Abductor 1 and 2?

I do not build abductor version 1, so... i don't know. Hehehe...

very cool man. so, is it a delay that's delaying another delay thats delaying another.. etc... , or is it 2 separate delays that feed into other separate delays? sorry if i missed the explanation of what its doing , would you mind walking me through the signal flow ? it sounds really sweet. i'm just trying to unboggle my mind with the possible permutations of delays feeding other delays and regen paths...  :icon_mrgreen:  in short, whats it doing?

Quote from: JebemMajke on September 14, 2015, 07:48:56 PM
What is the difference between Abductor 1 and 2?

Abductor 1 has switches to control the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th delays. Abductor 2 gives you more control by having pots on the 2nd, 3rd, and 4th delays to control the mix of each.

I thought that in "Abductor 2" the aliens brought you back home.   ;D

coat.get();

^ indeed, they do bring you back , but you cant sit down for a month :icon_eek:. ;D

(https://fbcdn-photos-c-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xfa1/v/t1.0-0/p180x540/12032123_10204745932758003_5530844208634341737_n.jpg?oh=9e194b60b791dfcf7be6533b21b14fad&oe=569FD4B0&__gda__=1452916206_91c9ddc61705c7963d47f7651a594adf)

Abductor Delay II Single layer Version  ;D

What would be the easiest/best way to mount the PCB in the box? (the double-sided, Deadastronaut board)

If we use right-angle, PCB-mount pots, will they need to be 9mm, or will 16mm fit?

hi matt, i used 16mm  pots...took the plastic covers off...

you wont get away with right angles as the pads need to be wired to the pots .

the board isnt designed vor board mou nted pots..

rob,

Nice work maungaja.
Is there a pdf or other printable layout for the single sided PCB?

^ i'm not sure what size enclosure he used for his 1 layer version

we never saw the final build.

the 2 layer pcb fits a 1590bb

Hi Rob,
i'm putting away my boss dd3 for this awesome project...  ;D
I emailed you one month ago through your web site to buy a pcb but you didn't answer me, so i'm trying to replicate
the pcb from the schematic using KiCad on Linux but it's a little bit hard and time consumption. I will try also to add filters to
decrease the noise of PT2399 and i'm also trying to find out if could be possible to add a tap tempo to your delay so i will be
the only one i will use...
If i will success i will post the mod but i'm a little bit rusty in electronics, schematics and so on, so it takes time...
Anyway are your PCB's still available? So i will avoid to draw one by myself...Thanks!

hi guy, sorry man, i must have missed your message..

been getting used to a new tablet etc.... ::)

yes i still have pcbs available, no problemo...

ive never messed with a tap tempo, so i dont know the min/ max delay time that they will
do....and actually be in time...i would read up on that before trying it.

rob.

Quote from: deadastronaut on March 03, 2016, 07:36:25 AM
hi guy, sorry man, i must have missed your message..

been getting used to a new tablet etc.... ::)

yes i still have pcbs available, no problemo...

ive never messed with a tap tempo, so i dont know the min/ max delay time that they will
do....and actually be in time...i would read up on that before trying it.

rob.

No problem Rob! ASAP i will make the order for the PCB. In the meanwhile i'll keep trying to study a
way to add this feature i think it would be very nice...Thanks!

HEADS UP:

a couple of people said they had a lot of hiss with this...

anyway, had a word with mr samhay on here and he suggested this fix..

and its now perfectly quiet...even with headphones on, cheers sam, your a star.. 8) 8) 8)

do this and you 'll have a nice quiet delay...

bear in mind your abductor vol level should be at around 10'oclock for usual bypass level.


(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/ABDUCTORIIFIX.jpg)

nice easy fix.  8) 8) 8)

Is this fix also possible for Abductor I? Should I just connect pins 5 and 7 of the in/out op-amp, add a 1k resistor from the input cap to pin 5 and increase the 220k resistor adjacent to pin 5? As the Abductor I doesn't have a schematic I'm a bit confused, thanks in advance.

the Abductor I is fine...

you are correct there was never a schemo of it as i took it straight from breadboard
into DILYC...unorthadox i know, but hey it worked... :)

cool, I was just wondering if it would improve the performance of Abductor I, but if you're saying it wouldn't then I'm not going to try it.
Thanks for the reply

yeah the abductor I is ok...just been using it... 8)

this was just a heads up for Abductor II...

I'm having a bit of an issue with my build, unfortunately. I've finished everything, double-checked the solder points, went ahead and applied the modification you had indicated at the  end of the thread here and I can't seem to acquire any audio from the input. I know that the knobs' features work, however I'm not getting any LED indication (the cathodes are both on the square pad, etc...) The only way that I can tell the features work is by flipping the toggle switch back and forth which administers a very, very subtle pop as it's shifting and emits a short, delay signal that I can manipulate with the time knob, LFO and more, but it only lasts for a mere second or two. The more I turn up level two, as well, the more I get a rather harsh, sawtooth synth sound.

Now, the way that I have the ground heading into board is the linked, mono input/output sleeves heading into the ground pad. Aside from that, the input and output are soldered to each of their pads correctly. I'm just not sure where I may have gone wrong with this one:

I'm really not quite sure what to look for here, so any help would be appreciated. I've loved this delay for quite some time and just got back to finishing the build. It may be something relatively simple that I'm disregarding. Here are some photos with indicators to show where the wiring has ended up for certain pads:

(https://c1.staticflickr.com/8/7499/28484266064_dbbd10248b_b.jpg)

(https://c5.staticflickr.com/8/7776/29073129116_9042e2559c_c.jpg)

(https://c2.staticflickr.com/9/8045/29028675521_37ab173122_c.jpg)

hi, you need to swap those mod resistors over....

:icon_wink:

That 1K resistor on the solder side looks like 1M

yep...he got them mixed up...weve all done it.. 8)

I...I've barely slept. What an adorable mistake. Thank you. :)

Excuse the double post here:

So, I've switched everything around in the proper manner. I now receive audio from my instrument, but only when the master volume of the pedal is turned completely up. After that, the delay kicks in and is affected by each volume knob, will oscillate with the LFO knob and more, however the delay audio sounds almost exactly like a loud geiger counter continuously grinding away. I thought this may be caused by the transistors, so I swapped for a fresh pair. Still no luck. The LED's also will not indicate as to whether or not the pedal is on. The sounds are created regardless of the positing the footswitch has been thrown to; on or off.

In/Out Readings for IC 5:

1: 4.473v
2: 4.473v
3: 4.101v
4: 0.001v
5: 4.470v
6: 4.473v
7: 4.472v
8: 8.93v

I really... don't want to have to scrap this with as much money as I've spent on parts.

ok...


make sure your 3 red wires going to the foostswitch are correctly orientated....

the delay will contiinue to trail off when bypassed, if you have the feedback turned up full
it will oscillate even when bypassed.....

if your foostswitch wires are fine, swap the footswitch fet. 2n5457.  ....lets get the on,off sorted....

no leds pulsing with lfo?

make sure you have wired the toggle switch correctly...

does the delay time pot work?...

a guy had a similiar issue with fake 2399,s....when he tried others it was ok.

First, a big thank you to Rob for his very clever design :)

I have just finished my version and thought I'd post it here.

(http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac356/gcwills/ABDUCTOR%20I_zpsvh2qi6ni.jpg)

(http://i915.photobucket.com/albums/ac356/gcwills/ABDUCTOR%202_zpspb4yp9lb.jpg)

Mine is definitely not as pretty as Rob's :icon_lol: but will do.

Works really well and very happy with it.
I've communicated with Rob that I had an issue with the modulation. I was unable to completely turn it off with the depth pot anticlockwise.
I developed a simple fix. I removed R22 (1K) and connected the free terminal (1) on the depth pot to Vcc (pin1) on IC1.
This allows for zero modulation when the depth is turned anticlockwise. Means that the depth pot can swing from zero modulation to full.

hi grant,

nice one man...excellent.

you dont need pretty, when it sounds cool.. 8)

hi guys, just a little update and offer for DIYSB people only. (not available on my site)

i had some new blue boards made, which are great, however i messed up the silk screen. :icon_rolleyes:

so there is no numbering on them, but there are component outlines..

so rather than use them as beer mats, or collecting dust etc..

i thought i would offer them up at reduced mates rates.. ;)

if you download the PDF on my site, it will still be an easy build.
as there are numbered 'guide' pics of the board/ with BOM/list/schematic of parts etc..

http://deadastronaut.wix.com/index#!__delay


5 quid for uk delivery...

6 quid (GBP) for worldwide delivery.....

so if you fancy one pm me..cheers. rob.

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WAVES%20FOR%20PELLE/WP_20161016_001.jpg)

(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/WAVES%20FOR%20PELLE/WP_20161016_002.jpg)

for those that haven't heard it...




cheers guys, Rob. 8)

update :  only 4 pcbs left.

cheers guys... 8)

Let me know if you received my payment in time for the last of the PCB's.

As for my build above, I think I located the root cause of error in mine and I believe it has to do with a damaged 7th pad for IC 5. I've double checked values everywhere else and that seems to be the problem area, plus I'm a little leery about employ the rather brittle, polystyrene capacitors and vintage parts for this one. It's not worth my trouble until I know it works.

hi andrew, yes all sorted...

ALL GONE:

Hey all,
I'm wondering if anyone could comment on what I've experienced with my build. The circuit board arrived and the build went well. Everything is working, but I'm experiencing some ugly noise on the repeats when the input signal gets to a certain level. It sounds like maybe the opamps in the chips are being overdriven. Has anyone else encountered this problem? Is there a recommended fix for this (ie. any optimal place to attenuate the signal)? The input and output buffers remain clean. I'm wondering if maybe this is a bandwidth issue, like maybe some more treble should be attenuated in order to keep the repeats from overdriving?

hi, is it the same issue as this....bad pt2399's?

http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=106536.0;topicseen


...

as a heads up, there is a small fix for the new 'blue'' boards..as there was an error on the vol pot wiring (which is weird as eagle didn't show it ::)) but this will fix it ok.
http://deadastronaut.wix.com/index

It would certainly seem like the PT2399s are being overdriven. Wasn't quite sure. I suppose trimming the input and compensating with output volume is a workaround...

appconfig.xml file not found
:icon_question:

It was the PT2399's the whole time. You were right. I built another delay recently, successfully I might add, and used the IC's I had initially bought for the first Abductor II attempt for this other build. One of the PT2399 IC's caused me to not have any audio output at all and I was fairly confident with my Abductor II build once it was completed, so I'm pretty certain the next attempt will go incredibly smoothly now that I have a system for testing these chips a little more efficiently!

Hi. Im building an Abductor delay II. Im having some problems with the wiring I think. I can't figure out the off board wiring. I´ve build the chasm reverb and the tremshifter from dead astronaut, and got the wiring right. Can someone please tell me how the off board wiring are one this one. Is it a DPDT switch or a 3Pdt switch for this one? The reg1 Is an L7805 insead of the 78L05 and I reversed it to fit the polarity. I got the two leds going but no sound either on or bypassed. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks :)

Hi,   do you have the blue pcb?

if so check my site for the mod...

the dpdt is wired using one side of it,   and the same as the pads are orientated..

im not home at the mo,  but when i get back i,ll get back to you ok.

Rob .

Hi. Thanks for your answer. I got the blue pcb yes. I wired the 2pdt on one side off the 3 pads on the pcb that says footswitch. The other side is empty. Maybe i got the output, input or the 9v wrong? I have the anode on the leds connected to the square pads on the pcb and i got lights. The 9v from the pcb is going to the plus on my 9v input, In to the positive pin on the input jack, O on the pcb is output right? that is going to the positive tip on my output jack. And G is grounded to ground on input jack. I didn´t notice that the was a bug notice on your website. I´ll check it out. Thanks again. I hoping to get it going soon, as I'm dying to hear this one, seems very promising and cool as your youtube video sounded :) 

Yes thats right...

but with the mod you will take the vol lug2 wire to your out tip ok...

I´ve tried the fix that you´ve mentioned. I just took off the wire from volume pad 2 on pcb and to the out tip, and left if open. Is that right? or should i just make another wire from lug 2 of the volume pot and wire it to tip of the output jack? It still has no sound either activated or bypassed. I´m sorry for all the questions :) Im quite new at this :) 

hi thomas, check you pm.

i messaged you earlier ;)

Hey Rob,

So, do you think this might work for activating/deactivating modulation properly? If not, let me know your thoughts on the matter. I'm about finished with the build.

(http://i.imgur.com/p7DyAmIh.jpg)

edit:

i think your over thinking it..

you just need to cut the connection of the lfo to the time pot..

for on/off lfo..

You're correct. I was so exhausted that evening that I didn't see the painfully obvious, simpler option. Thank you for that.

no probs...we all get like that i'm sure.. 8)

What was the "simple fix" for the noise? the original image posted way earlier in this thread isnt available now

Hang on math...i,ll grab it for you....

here ya go..
(http://s5.postimg.org/q3gpcosjr/ABDUCTORIIFIX.jpg)


the new 'red' pcbs are all fixed now.  8)

thanks rob! though i guess i wont need the fix since im gonna be buying a new board (once im back from vacation)
if i were to add an effects loop, where would i route it from? my guess is the wiper of the feedback pot

Hi everyone one!

I'm thinking to buy a pcb from Rob, I find this delay full of possibility.

I had a look at the schem, and I 'm wondering if there is a way tout add a shape knob to the LFO, I think this delay will be mad with it  8)

hi, there may be a way, but the pcb is pretty tight, so cutting traces on a dual layer board

and tacking bits on might be an issue....

And if I use a veroboard to add the part for a shape knob?



If I add a shape knob, will it take place between pin 6 and 7 of the TL 072?


I am a noob, so I 'll try to understand how it could work.  :P

you would  still have to break traces on the dual layer pcb though.....could be tricky,

if not destructive..hmmm...

Ok I understand better why it will be an issue.

The only way to add it will be to start from the schematic, and build it on a veroboard. I'm not enought crazy for it yet!

yes it would be a nightmare vero for sure...

Quote from: deadastronaut on August 22, 2017, 09:41:56 AM
yes it would be a nightmare vero for sure...

But probably a walk in the park for Dino...   ;)

Just got my board, but I'm wondering if anyone has a good source for 47k pots, and a B2M in 16mm?   Looking forward to this build!

Hi. You can use 50k pots...16mm

I found 2m linears on ebay ..

Rob

Quote from: deadastronaut on June 01, 2016, 11:29:47 AM
HEADS UP:

a couple of people said they had a lot of hiss with this...

anyway, had a word with mr samhay on here and he suggested this fix..

and its now perfectly quiet...even with headphones on, cheers sam, your a star.. 8) 8) 8)

do this and you 'll have a nice quiet delay...

bear in mind your abductor vol level should be at around 10'oclock for usual bypass level.


(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/7464107/ABDUCTORIIFIX.jpg)

nice easy fix.  8) 8) 8)

Hey guys I built my Abductor 2 finally and I'm getting some weird stuff.  The modulation works and the led flashes accordingly to speed and depth.   

The delay only works with the switch in the down position, and with the time pot full CCW.   If I turn it CW just a tiny bit it makes a big noise similar to dive bombing a note with the time knob on other PT delays and then the knob has no affect on the sound as I move further CW. 

The image showing the above mentioned fix doesn't seem to be on the webpage any more. Not sure if that's related.   

While in the little spot I have delay,  I've tested the volume of each chip separately and they are all delaying so I'm doubting a chip. 

I used all the specified values for pots and verified my time pot is a B2M and the sweep on it works as it should.

Any ideas ? Thanks

Hi shred. The "fix" wouldnt have anything to do with your issue.

Are you getting volume adjustment on all 4 delays up top row
Of pots?.

And are they responding time wise?....divided?.

Make sure you havent blobbed solder onto a via...little hole.

Yes I have volume on all 4 delays,  and feedback works.  It's just the time pot that is behaving strangely and only in one switch setting.  I'll go over the board and make sure I didn't bridge anything.  I had to use the super fine tip on my iron.  It's a great board.  Thanks for the advice.  I'll report back :)

Ok man. Check that switch too....it only lengthens the delay to
For extreme long delays....or standard delay time.

Ok well I've been going over this with a fine tooth comb and it's getting the best of me.  After messing with it, delay 1 does not seem to work at all and delay 2 generates hiss.  The other 2 "work" but they all only repeat once no matter the feedback knob position ..  It's got to be something mad simple at this point.  All the PTs have 4.7V on pin 1.. I checked the 2N3904 pinouts.. tested known PTs..   the volume works,

I'm not great at troubleshooting delays, but if 1 isn't working I'm guessing that's causing the rest of the issues  :icon_frown:  anyway here are some pics. Any ideas ? 
(https://s15.postimg.cc/ajo1zqjzr/20180630_155829.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/ajo1zqjzr/)

(https://s15.postimg.cc/94mhb0b6v/20180630_155922.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/94mhb0b6v/)

I don't seem to have the build docs that match your board, but I do have 2 questions - what value resistor have you fitted at R37? what value resistor have you fitted to the left of IC5, where it says "1k"? I don't know these are the problem, but they might be pointers.

Yeah definitely had a 10k in R4..  looked in my bin and there's like 20x 10k in the 1k slot  :icon_eek:    that's why you don't stock parts while watching a movie and drinking. .. ;)

R37 was a 7.5k..   swapped both to correct values and tested it out, still the same problems. 

And now my soldering iron is shocking me again!  Wtf..   I guess I'll take the controller and open it up.. maybe something obvious .. otherwise I'm out $140.  Great.

Thanks for looking Duck

So a few more days of troubleshooting and I'm still having problems.  The delay time knob works as it's supposed to, the switch works as it's supposed to, the modulation works, the volume works .. but
Delay 1 does not work
Delay 2 adds hiss when turned up
Delay 3 and 4 work and follow as I think they are supposed to
The feedback knob does nothing, only one repeat always.

I tried directly grounding pin 1 of feed, direct jumper from pin 3 feed to pin 3 vol 1.. no difference.

Based off these symptoms is there a section of the circuit I should be looking at?

I've checked over all the little through holes and there doesn't seem to be any solder bridges or anything. 

Any insight would be appreciated :)

hi have you got other pt2399's to try..???

the 3 at the bottom, look weird...really large notch.  never seen them like that.

if 1 2 3 aren't working properly then the repeats wot work either.

Ok so give that man a chicken dinner!  I pulled those PTs out, tested them in a different circuit I haven't boxed up yet (Bluffchill hyperlite 1.0) and they all work, but I fished out 3 new ones with the tiny slot... and now it all works.   So I guess there's something with those other chips the Abductor does not like!   Well I'm happy,  thanks everyone for looking and helping out. It's a really fun delay.  I appreciate it all.

Yay....yeah they looked a bit moody for sure...

Excellent.  8)

I'll be sure to remember this when I build my dream time hehe  :icon_mrgreen:

Finally got my box painted up and it's looking good, about to box this one up and I was just curious..  Will using a smaller value time pot, say a B1M shorten the overall possible delay time?

yup.....

looking forward to seeing it man... 8)

Hey Robert,sorry to use the forum to ask I tried emailing but somehow my email provider is not compatible with your yahoo,do you have stock of chasm and abductor II boards?
Thanks
Aharon :icon_wink:

Hi. Strange....yes i have . No problem..

Rob.

Hi all, after my original thread didn't get any attention I figured I could try it in the main Abductor II thread here. Maybe you folks can help me. I'll paste the text from the original topic:

"after working on a tube amp the last months, I got back to my effects pedals a few days ago and noticed some serious hiss being produced by the abductor delay in my signal chain (the hiss was also present the last time I tried it, I just didn't care too much about it). Despite the fact that this is an absolutely great delay pedal that I really love, the hiss is something I'd be happy to sort as it would be even more usable for me.

I have googled a bit and found this thread over at madbean https://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=111625.20 . This guy had a similar issue so I tried some of the suggestions, without any luck so far.

I probed the signal path using an audio probe and found out that the hiss is only very subtle on the input stage (IC5 / pins 3,2,1) and on pin 6, but is very strong on the output of the output-buffer stage - pin 7. Most of the hiss goes away when I pull the 78L05 voltage regulator supplying the PT2399s. When doing these tests I turned down the volume-controls of all the delays to ensure no PT2399 noise gets fed to the mixing/output-stage.

After I noticed that the regulator gets quite hot, I tried a (properly adjusted) LM317 in its place, without an improvement. Additionally I moved the diode D1 before C1 to ensure the resistance of the diode forms a HPF with the capacitor to shunt power supply noise. No improvement. Then I tried a 100n cap from several points in the power supply to gnd and from pin 5 to gnd without any success. I tried a different opamp (OP275) instead of the TL072, no success. I also tried two different power supplies without success.

The only thing that helped was to put a large-ish cap in the feedback path of the mixing stage. When I used a 10n cap the hiss was at the same level like on pin 6, however this did also result in some treble roll-off which is not very convenient.

That's all I could think of up to now. Are there any other things that could try? Or is this something I have to live with? I've build loads of pedals but never had such a strong hiss going on. I have to admit, however, that's one of the most complicated builds so far.

Attached is an image of the schematic I used to build this beast.

Thanks heaps!"

I should add that I used the PCB that had no part-markings on it and that has the issue with the output-volume poti. However, building this worked like a charme and the delay is really sweet, except the hiss.

Thanks!
Yves

(https://s8.postimg.cc/5dhi8nm41/Bildschirmfoto_2018-07-24_um_21.14.34.png) (https://postimg.cc/image/5dhi8nm41/)

If your regulator gets too hot, then probably you have a short somewhere.

hang on, i'll find the 'fix ' mod image.  it was on here, but dropbox changed my links...

do this fix...no hiss.  ( the input opamp was reversed on those boards. ...)

the 78l05 should be fine...as rankot said, check for a short.

(https://s5.postimg.cc/lx4qotiyv/ABDUCTORIIFIX.jpg)

Thanks for the quick responses!

I will definitely check for shorts somewhere on the bottom of the PCB. I will have to take it out of the enclosure though which is a little complicated, but I'll check it out.

Rob, I inspected the PCB and it is a different layout than the one in the fix you posted (picture attached). There's already a 1k on the input of pin 3 and R6 is already 1M. What is the jumper supposed to do? Does it connect Pins 1 & 3? At the moment, pins 1 & 2 are connected as per the schematics. If I would connect pins 1 & 3, all three of the first opamps pins would be connected, which isn't what we want, right?

Thanks for your help!
(https://s8.postimg.cc/nfefboka9/DSCN4898.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/nfefboka9/)

Ahh i see, yeah so it is ok then...thought it was a much older board....so shouldnt be hissy.

have you got any other pt2399's to try.  those ones with the big notch are dodgy...

see previous posts.

1+2 should be connected yes ...

Okay, I just tried it without any PT2399 inside and there was still quite some hiss. I also tried some small-notch PT2399s but with them in the hiss was even stronger than with large notch ones. Then I pulled just IC 4 which resulted in some oscillation. Same when I pulled just IC 1.

So, anything else I could try? The hiss is really only present from pin 7 of the IC, not on pin 6 (or just very quiet).

I still haven't found a solution to the hissing issue. Right now I have a 2n2 cap across pins 6 & 7 of IC 5 to get the hiss down to an acceptable level, even though this means a significant treble roll-off. I'll rewire it to True Bypass for this reason.

I'm still very curious to find out why the noise is so prominent here. Do you guys have any more ideas? It seems that it's really only present from pin 7. The gain of the last stage isn't really high enough to amplify hiss that is produced earlier in the circuit to these annoying levels, is it?

However, any more ideas are highly appreciated. I love this delay but it's giving me a hard time.

^what are you putting it with?

It's running straight into the amp with its own power supply. No guitar connected to the effects input, so the input is grounded.

What happens to the noise if you turn all the level pots CCW?

They all are completely ccw, still noise. I've also removed all the PT2399s without any improvement. Next step would be to try to disconnect the delay line completely from the mixing stage to see if it is still present then. What do you think?

Without any PT23999s, the delay line shouldn't be able to make any real noise.
I suspect you either have:
a very noisy power supply
an usually noisy TL072
a build error, which is giving much more gain than expected - how loud is the dry signal?

The power supply should be fine. I tried different ones that produce no noise at all on all my other effects including digital effects such as a Boss DD-20. I've used them for years and never had noise issues. I also tried 0.1uF caps across the rails of the TL072 without any improvement.
I've tried a OP275 instead of the TL072 without improvement.
Much more gain shouldn't be the case. In fact, I've used a 51k instead of the 56k in the feedback loop and I need to turn the output-volume trimpot to about 75% to get the bypass volume.

If I remember right, the noise was lower when I pulled the 78L05 regulator, that's why I tried a "stronger" LM317 in its place, but this also didn't improve anything.

I'm running out of ideas, the last thing that comes to my mind would be a problematic PCB layout that induces noise somehow, but then more people would complain about the noise.

Is there any other area in the circuit that could introduce the noise, even though it appears only at pin7 ?

However, thanks a lot already for taking your time!

It's a bit of a puzzle. I don't have one of these to prod, so working purely from theory, but it doesn't sound like an obvious build error.
I expect when Rob emerges from the dark side of the moon he will chip in with suggestions.

I had forgotten that this design has an LFO. What happens if you pull IC6?
Also, if Q1 (the FET) is socketed, does it make any difference if you pull this?

I tried pulling the LFO driver the other day. It did improve the hiss issue a little bit, but definitely not a lot. I'm not at home this weekend so I'll have to wait until Monday to check if pulling the FET will give any insights. Thanks!

Okay, without the FET the hiss remains the same. Tried it with the LFO IC again and it's the same -> no change in the amount of hiss.  :icon_sad:

Finally got round to building an abductor 2 using a blue board from Rob without the labels.
I don't have a noise problem, I have a quiet problem. I have a short between signal and ground which I can't spot.
Tomorrow, as they say, is another day.....

Found the short. Red wire is output, black is ground. Shorted on the pcb
Now got sound but only delay 2 & 4 are working + LFO
Need some sleep before looking at where delay 1&3 have gone.... and the feedback

(https://www.stallibrass.com/images/kas/short.jpg)

Sorted the missing delays and feedback - forgot to reconnect the earths after cutting the pcb tracks  :icon_redface:

(https://www.stallibrass.com/images/kas/abd2.jpg)

(https://www.stallibrass.com/images/kas/abd2guts.jpg)

Plain box - it's only temporary
Nice one Rob - this is great fun!

So my build was done and boxedish.. but listening to the video and my unit, I feel like my unit has a lot more distortion in the repeats.  Like the added hiss on the repeats including the first one.  I know pt2399s get distorted as the repeats carry out, but it's immediate on mine even at relatively short delay times.  I was planning on changing the 1n caps at pins 13/14 and 15/16 to 2n2.. though I know that darkens it up, but I like that.   Any other ideas where to look for hissy repeats ?  It's almost there! 

Did you try different PT2399 ICs in the first position? Some chips produce more hiss and if you have a bad one as the first delay stage you'll amplify the hiss in every stage. Try swapping the chips around if you just have these.

Btw, still no improvement to my hiss-issues with the output buffer. :(

This may be a complete red herring regarding noise but here goes.

When I built mine, I only had a 1meg pot available for time. It was a standard miniature Alpha from Tayda. Although this limited the delay time available, the pedal was pretty quiet. I added a 1meg resistor in series to get longer times and while it removed the shorter times, it was still pretty quiet.

Just received a 2.5meg pot via eBay and shoved that in. The pedal is as noisy as hell at all delay time settings. In bypass it hisses quite a bit and I think this is being amplified through the delay. It doesn't make any scratching noises when turned but it feels very scratchy if that makes sense. The pot is a very nasty, low quality job so i shouldn't be surprised. Shoved the original back in and all is pretty quiet again.

Yeah I had originally wanted to put a B1M in.. I'll try it. Thanks for the idea.   

Also, I have tried. Numerous 2399s.  I ordered some SMD and adapter boards for them too .. I want this thing to be quiet.  It's so damn fun

B1M didn't affect my build.  Tried like 10 more 2399s from different batches, didn't help.  Put 4401s in instead if 3904s..  it actually seems better.. but not much.  It's unboxed still and I have a bunch of florescent lights and stuff.  I may box it up just to see.  It's pretty rough to pull it all out and stuff... but I'm just going to try. 

Interesting stuff about the delay time pot, thanks for that. I'm afraid it won't help with my issues but it's interesting to know.
Are there any other suggestions what could be causing the strong hiss on the output stage? I never had this kind of issue in my setup.

After building a different delay and having it sound hissy during repeats as well, and then boxing it and it not being noticeable I decided to just box up the Abductor because the hiss was only there if I listened real close .. 

Long story short it's pretty much quiet as a mouse now and I think my hiss artifacts are a byproduct of my test rig and the shoddy grounding and fluorescent lighting in my workshop. 

It took me a while and I learned a lot about delays and filtering, but this is definitely one of my favorite delays.  It's so much fun. Thanks Rob for making it available. 
(https://s22.postimg.cc/d2v2w0p65/20180913_065829-1195x1593.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/image/d2v2w0p65/)
Kind of went for the "Fire in the sky" theme.   That movie freaked me out when I was a kid  :icon_mrgreen: 

cool build....thats my fave film ever...

checkout an epsode of ''paranormal witness''  with the travis walton story..

even travis said is the closest portrayal of what happened.... 8)

i have the original 70's book of the story too..great read, 8)


@iefes: your volume isnt way up is it?...should be around 1 0clock - ish...

Sick man, I'll check it out!   Love the delay.  Ran out of 100ns or I would be building my dreamtime right now!

Hey Rob, thanks for your feedback. I've got an internal trim-pot as a volume control, so the taper is linear. I think it is set quite high actually, almost cranked. There's a large volume increase on the last 10° of the turn.

Does this help to identify the issue somehow?

hi, well it shouldn't be cranked. thats asking for hiss.

on mine its around 1'0clock-ish to be unity...



lets ask samhay: if you wanted to omit the volume pot completely  tinker with R9 feedback loop resistor.????

and take the lug 3 vol pot to out jack....not sure on value of R9 though. ?

Hi Rob, yes, that's probably a good idea to try. I'll remove the volume-pot and try different values for R9. Maybe something in the range of 22k to 47k. For unity it should be 22k right? Or does it matter that the input of the opamp is fed from 5 different sources, each with a series resistor of 22k ? Is each signal amplified the same amount due to all those 22k resistors?
However, lowering the gain of the output stage should at least bring down the hiss a little bit. Let's see  :)

erm...not sure on the value, but might be worth tinkering with.... 8)

socket it maybe...

...you rang?

If you don't want the volume pot, you should probably aim to have the dry signal at unity gain, which is the case when R9 = 22k.
This does mean that that wet signal can be louder than the dry signal, bit this might be useful sometimes.

Okay, I tried different values for R9 and settled with 22k which resulted in unity volume, just as samhay suggested. I also left out the volume control. now it's better. There is definitely still some hiss even with the volume of each delay-chip turned all the way down and also without the delay-chips. I compared it using a true bypass looper. However, I'm not 100% happy but now I can use it and it's going back on my pedalboard :-)

But another question came up: Did anybody else experience that the modulation bleed through even with the depth at minimum? Normally like this there's no modulation, but sometimes suddenly a few repeats are highly modulated, just like I would increase the depth just for a moment. I might add a switch to completely kill the modulation. And I think I will decrease the maximum delay time. I feel that the repeats are too noisy at the long time settings and I mostly use the short times anyway.

However, I'm happy it's working better now and I can finally use it again. It's a great delay pedal, no doubt! Thanks Rob!

is your depth pot faulty?.....they can get jumpy if they are dodgy....

had that on an effect once...swapped the pot, and sorted it.

I'll check it next time I open the enclosure. Thanks!

Hi!
Just to add some info about a Abductor build I've been on for a while.
I bought two pcb's years ago and started populating the other once I got my hands on it. Knowing that an error in component value etc. could make this a painful project to troubleshoot so I populated the board with time. Once I got it done (this was a few years ago) there was no signal. No bypass or delayed. At the time my troubleshooting skills were not that well polished so all I could find was that the 2M delay pot was failing. That has nothing to do with the bypass not working and at the moment I had to put the project aside for a while. Time passed and just a week ago I found the board in my "to-do" box and started fixing it.
It didn't take long that I found out that for some reason, there guitar signal stops at Volume pot lug 2 (signal output). Hmm, let's check the pot. Pot was OK. What the... Ok, let's check continuity between Volume pot lug 2 and Output pad...yep, all fine. There's nothing much that could do this...unless...the Output path is grounded. It was indeed connected to ground, but where!? Checked all the wiring and the Volume pot, no apparent errors found. Ok, if there's a solder bridge or something on the board? Checking... No solder bridge, but the ground and Output layers are connected on the pcb itself! On both pcb's I bought, they are clearly crossing over each other. I'll put a pic if this later in the evening.
So if there's someone who has this kind of symptoms, check the Volume 2 pad with a DMM if it's connected to the ground layer :)

Hi thats correct, there was an error on the vol pot part of the board....that was a long time ago...i did have a diagram on my site to fix that.....but removed it as it was so long ago i figured those building it would have by then... :icon_mrgreen:

Anyway, its long since been remedied, and glad you got it fixed.  8)

Yeah, all fine now!  :)
I'll skip posting the photo then ;)

Come on, lets see your build too....   ;)

Dont be shy  :icon_mrgreen:

Haha!
Not being shy about the build, I was actually referring to the error on the PCB :D
But yeah, I'll post pics when I get it boxed - in couple of days or so ;)

 :icon_mrgreen:

Cool...

Ok, now I got it boxed. Though I have to order more those 2399's since some of that are socketed now are a bit dodgy (goes without saying when it's about 2399's...). Also, when I got this boxed, I started getting a high pitched whine with the first 20% of Time pot (with the shortest delay that is). When I roll the Time up past the first 20% the whine goes away. This is with the effect bypassed AND effect ON. Actually, when the effect is ON, I have to roll the Time pot to nearly 50% to get the whine go away. I have to check if I have to re-route wires and/or shorten them. The wires aren't too long to start with, but maybe there's something that should be routed differently. Any ideas?
Anyways, the pics I promised :)

(https://i.postimg.cc/WDvjP5gw/IMG-20200604-130753.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/WDvjP5gw)

(https://i.postimg.cc/TyJx2ncM/IMG-20200604-130815.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TyJx2ncM)

(https://i.postimg.cc/TL26Khky/IMG-20200604-130821.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/TL26Khky)

(https://i.postimg.cc/s1XzyQQq/IMG-20200604-130828.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/s1XzyQQq)

(https://i.postimg.cc/DmMTzv1Z/IMG-20200604-125342.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/DmMTzv1Z)

looks great , very nice... 8)

as for the whine even bypassed thats weird...as it just goes in and out though the opamp

when bypassed.......hmmmmm.... have you socketed the tails bypass fet?...just thinking aloud really...hmmmm

Thanks man! :)
All the semiconductors were socketed in the beginning (like with every build I do), but when I got it working I removed the sockets and soldered everything, excluding the IC's. I bet it's the routing of the wires because it didn't act up until I boxed it. All the wires to the pots get squeezed between the PCB and the pots, so that's the most obvious change to the un-boxed situation. Oh, and yes, I've insulated all the pot casings with tape so there shouldn't be any risk for a short.
By the way, how much "artefacts" should there be - if any - in the delay signal with longer delays? I know that 2399's do add some when pushed to its maximum, but should this be any different? At the moment, I've been able to cut down the "artefacts" a bit with changing 2399's (some work better than others), but I haven't got rid of them completely.

check the output voltage on each of your regulators as you make it whine and then not whine - see if they are loading too much or summink.

Yeah, I had a thought about the regulator (there's only one) and the current drain for the PT's. I recall one thread from years ago and there were discussions about how well one 78L05 supplies multiple PT's. Typically that kind of regulator has 100mA output limit and I tried to find some concrete statement about what the consumption for one PT is, but didn't find any. Some said 20mA max. and some said more.
There's the shadow of the PT's reputation in general hanging over this though.
I already loosened the nut on the mode switch and lifted the board a bit but that didn't change it one iota, so the regulator thingy will be next. Can't make it happen until next week, but I'll keep this thread updated when I get to shake the build a bit more :)

Ok, back at this!
Well, it's not the 5457 or the regulator. Well, the 5457 appeared somewhat weird when I tested with a component tester, so I replaced it anyways. I also noticed that the frequency of the whine reacts to the Time pot, so the freq keeps going up until Time pot is 50% of its rotation. With the Mode switch in long delay, there's no whine.
I poked the pcb with my finger and I got the whine disappear when I hit the R18/R19/R20/C23 junction connected to the IC1's LPF2 section. I have quite a few "green beanie" caps on the board and I recall having one or two bad experiences with those in the past (some might be ebayed from China, so...). I think I'm going to drag the board back to work, remove the greenies and solder some proper caps in.
I'm just being careful with the pads and I have to remove them at work because that's the only place I have access to a solder suction station. So, it's gonna take a few more days to get back here with results - if any :D

Hi, could you share the single layer pcb? please. :icon_cry:

hi, there isn't a single layer for this....if there was it would be huge..

Quote from: deadastronaut on October 26, 2020, 07:32:14 AM
hi, there isn't a single layer for this....if there was it would be huge..

...and DA (the other) would complain about the image size.   :icon_rolleyes:

Still: huge, single-side, . . . I wonder if Dino's done a vero layout?   ???                                        ;D

Not Dino (I think) but this guy pulled it off...

http://guitar-fx-layouts.42897.x6.nabble.com/deadastonaut-abductorIIdelay-td29363.html

Now I'll patiently wait for a perf layout... anyone...?  :icon_lol:

I'm confused by which DA (to).

Here's my build report on the Abductor II delay over on Madbean's forum. I managed to add an effects loop in a way which can only be described as "stupid easy". Hope you guys enjoy  ;D

https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32001.msg307588#msg307588 (https://www.madbeanpedals.com/forum/index.php?topic=32001.msg307588#msg307588)

Cool....no pics of your build?..

Green knobs for little green men.

(https://i.postimg.cc/r0W7xbm5/abductor-front.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/r0W7xbm5)

(https://i.postimg.cc/qzRVZ1ZH/abductor-top.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/qzRVZ1ZH)

(https://i.postimg.cc/HVC8w7SM/abductor-guts.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/HVC8w7SM)

Quote from: skyled on November 06, 2020, 03:52:37 AM
Green knobs for little green men.

looks great...nice build.  8)

the term little green men was apparently from a guy who said he witnessed  'little grey men' around WWII but he was miss quoted by the press and it stuck.... don't ask me how i know this...  ;)

Hello!

It looks like a fabulous delay...thank you for it, deadastronaut!

If I want to build it with true bypass, I can omit 2N5457 and the parts between its gate and +9V? Of course, I will put a wire between drain and source of FET.

Thank you!

Yep you can do that, no problem....

Quote from: deadastronaut on March 15, 2021, 03:29:07 AM
Yep you can do that, no problem....

Thank you very much, Rob! :)

Hello!

I finished the Abductor and it sounds amazing, but I have a problem: the delayed sounds are distorted (most on the bridge position). I have an Ibanez RG370 unmodified, with Infinity pickups, but when I use it with other PT2399 delays (Multiplex, EQD etc.) I don't have this problem. I tested 3 types of PT2399 (different sources), including ones that don't sound distorted in other delays. The source of the problem could be the fact that I omitted 2N5457 bypass? I tried to find on Internet the drain-source resistance of 2N5457 when it's on, but I have no luck. Also, I added 4 yellow and green 3mm LEDs from pin 7 to ground as I saw in other builds (Jon Patton's idea) and the twos from IC1 and IC2 lights almost all time, while the last two lights weakly. Maybe I must add a trimpot insted jumpering 2n5457 drain and source? If yes, which value could be?

Thank you a lot!

I'm having a real struggle getting this to work. Using an audio probe I cannot trace a signal beyond the input (pin 3) of IC5a. I have the green version of the PCB, which includes R5 next to IC5, although this does not appear on the schematic, the overlay or the parts list. I assume that I should replace it with a link to join pins 1 & 2? Are there any other differences between this version of the PCB and the correct layout?
Cheers
Ian

hi ian, wow those old green boards were from years back..

anyway , without seeing the board i suspect you need to do this ''fix''

(https://i.postimg.cc/1Rk8Y40K/ABDUCTORIIFIX.jpg)

Hi Rob,
Thanks for your reply. Yes I've had the PCB for a while! I'll give your suggestion a go and let you know.
Cheers
Ian

is your R8 / R9 the same as the diagram above?.

Hi Rob,
I've just seen your last update. Yes, R8 (22k) and R9 (56k) are as shown in your diagram. They are also connected to the correct pins of IC5 according to the schematic V2. I'm yet to try rewiring R4, but R6 is already 1M. I'll let you know how I get on.
Cheers
Ian

Just finished soldering up my board today.
Wasn't sure about the lack of true bypass, but I like the way the effect dies off slowly when you disengage.

Boxing up is going to be a nightmare!

I cheated somewhat with all that wiring by using JST connectors.

(https://i.imgur.com/mXWtnIB.jpg)

Ooh that's clever!

Completed!
The board went in easy after I swore and screamed a lot.
I actually bought one of those 1590BB2 enclosures that tayda are now selling. A few mm deeper. Soooo glad I bought it.
Effect sounds bloody amazing. Can't wait to incorporate it into some of our new songs.

(https://i.postimg.cc/21KHzwyN/8423-E3-E2-4346-4036-B5-C9-0-F25-EDF65-FD6.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/21KHzwyN)

Awesome effect Rob!

excellent man, nice build, love the ufo..... 8) 8) 8) 8)

Hi, I just finished my Abductor build and it's really awesome! I ordered a kit from Musikding.de. I'm not very experienced builder so there's a high possibility I did something wrong. Also the provided enclosure was horrifyingly small for this build. I did my best! Here it is:

(https://i.postimg.cc/Jy0dS01z/IMG-20230408-135411.jpg) (https://postimg.cc/Jy0dS01z)

A few drawbacks, though:
1) The volume pot is always on. I mean it's active even when the effect is off. I take this is not intended behaviour?  I did all the wirings by just looking at other builds, because almost all the links here are dead and I couldn't find much from Deadastronaut's site (just list of parts and a picture of the pcb).
2) I'm not sure if the 3rd delay is working correctly, the difference between zero level or max level in level 3 can be unnoticable or perhaps it's not working at all. I'm still getting familiar with the possibilities of this effect, so I'm not completely sure how things are supposed to work. Level 1, 2 and 4 produce a noticable, beautiful delays, except when this happens:
3) I noticed quite a bit of noise and a really low headroom to be a little irritating. It gets easily distorted while strumming chords with max guitar volume. I wonder if I did something wrong? I read this topic from start to finish, but got a little confused of what's what version of the pcb and if i should do some mods for this blue board I have? There's no company labels or any name on the pcb.

Also my first post here, happy to see this topic still so alive :)

Hi everybody.I got the PCB from Deadastronaut  some years ago but could not start,actually I stopped building for a long time and now I'm slowly starting back.I'm gathering parts for this build but Im going to need help with the off board wiring.My last attempt was the chasm reverb and it was a failure for some reason (obviously my fault,probably mangled the reverb brick after realizing I had gotten the wrong one and tried to make it work anyways).
Im taking my time populating this beautiful board properly a bit each day no rush but like I said I'm going to need help buttoning this one up guys.
Thanks in advance to all
Aharon
PS: I see two eyes blinking that's the lFo but I found only one LFo  led on the schematic and on the PCB,where is the other one?

I'd just add a 2nd led in parallel for the LFO if you want 2.

I tried mine at practice the other night. Sounds great but with my amp distortion on it's pretty noisy. I haven't tried through the effects loop. Goes ok with my other dirt pedals though.

Quote from: bamslam69 on April 24, 2023, 09:19:23 PM
I'd just add a 2nd led in parallel for the LFO if you want 2.

if in parallel, you will need another current limit resistor, or the leds won't share current. and the led+CLR will need to be parallel to the other led+CLR. series leds, on the other hand, go right ahead, they will be correct, but less bright.


Colman, don't be scared to post progress photos as you build.

Thanks duck_arse for your help,I will post asap, right now I'm gathering parts,I have to work slow or I make mistakes.
Aharon

Quote from: deadastronaut on June 23, 2017, 12:36:04 PMhere ya go..
(http://s5.postimg.org/q3gpcosjr/ABDUCTORIIFIX.jpg)


the new 'red' pcbs are all fixed now.  8)

How come I can't see the fix for hiss, it's posted at least twice and can't see either.
Any help appreciated.

Quote from: deadastronaut on June 23, 2017, 12:36:04 PMhere ya go..
(http://s5.postimg.cc/q3gpcosjr/ABDUCTORIIFIX.jpg)

the new 'red' pcbs are all fixed now.  8)

Old style postimg URL.  Changed from .org to .cc a while back.

Thanks bluebunny,I've been reading all I can about the Abductor and I think this probably does not apply to my PCB,I've got the blue not the green but if I end up having to use it thanks again for your help.

Colman

OK finally got all the parts, pots ,box,caps etc..I really want this to work so I might need a little help as I stated before.for practice I built an orange squeezer and an expandora

Here are my PT2299s and my board:
(https://i.postimg.cc/ZWXXtWwX/temp-Image-Tc-Ro0-K.avif) (https://postimg.cc/ZWXXtWwX)

(https://i.postimg.cc/ZWXXtWwX/temp-Image-Tc-Ro0-K.avif) (https://postimg.cc/ZWXXtWwX)


(https://i.postimg.cc/2q4cs2bB/temp-Image-Caoaa8.avif) (https://postimg.cc/2q4cs2bB)
 
Colman

It's easier to populate a pcb of you start with the smallest (lowest) components first. Resistors, diodes, then taller items like capacitors and IC sockets.  It makes it easier to hold the components in place when you turn the pcb over to solder them to the pads

Quote from: stallik on March 18, 2024, 05:46:17 PMIt's easier to populate a pcb of you start with the smallest (lowest) components first. Resistors, diodes, then taller items like capacitors and IC sockets.  It makes it easier to hold the components in place when you turn the pcb over to solder them to the pads

Aside from this standard I normally put blue tape to hold them cause I hate when they slip and stick up

The sockets are just there not soldered.Thanks for the heads up.
Aharon

Quote from: bluebunny on October 19, 2023, 04:18:04 PM

Quote from: deadastronaut on June 23, 2017, 12:36:04 PMhere ya go..
(http://s5.postimg.cc/q3gpcosjr/ABDUCTORIIFIX.jpg)

the new 'red' pcbs are all fixed now.  8)

Old style postimg URL.  Changed from .org to .cc a while back.

Guys I have the blue PCB that has the 1M AND 1K already in the right place ,I think.
But what are those extra smaller holes that are under some of the ICs,for example there's 2 holes under IC5 and there some under the delay chips.I have started populating the board and I'm still doing Resistors but I'd like to know before I reach the sockets.
Thanks  for any help as always.
Aharon

The little holes are pathways that join the front tracks to the rear on double sided boards. I'm sure they have a proper name...


Edit: apparently, they're called 'through holes' . Pretty obvious name I suppose

Thanks for the clarification stallik. One less thing to worry about ,I haven't done a board so complex in years  and I'm really anxious for it to come out right.

There's a discrepancy between the board label of R47/R48 on the board they are labeled R47 as 10k R48 as 22k,on the list and the schematic they are reversed,which one is right?
Thanks for helping me through this everyone.
Colman

Can't comment on the resistors but I believe you mentioned that you've had this board for quite a while. Just in case, take a look at post #190 on page 10 of this thread. There was an accidental short on one build of the pcb. Worth checking yours?

Thanks again stallik,I will check that post right now, as far as the discrepancy I think I jumped the gun,tha confusion came cause on the board there's an overprint ,the values are as stated on the scheme and the list.false alarm on my part.
Thanks again
Colman.

Ok,checked your post about the short, sorry about being so thick,I don't get where the short is ,is it a sold blob or is it a trace on the pcb itself?,maybe we have a different pcb cause I don't have so many wires,I have the output next to the ground but nowhere to put the blue wire you have there and my out and G holes are on the edge of the pcb,you have more below them.In any case how did you get rid of the short ,did you resolder the wires or cut a trace?
Thanks
Colman

Progress so far:




(https://i.postimg.cc/HccyGp9p/temp-Image-Ag-Akoh.avif) (https://postimg.cc/HccyGp9p)



Colman

Sounds like your pcb is later than mine so the problem has been fixed.

If you look at the pcb track below the red wire on mine, you should notice where the thin pcb trace joins to ground (black wire) I had to cut the little bridges on either side, then rejoin the earth with a separate wire.

To fix the issue, Deadastronaut will have had to shuffle the wire pads around a bit so, if yours looks different, it must be post fix and I'm worrying you for nothing. Sorry.

Edit: my close up picture shows the board on the underside of the volume pot connections.  You can just make out a jumper wire reconnecting the earth in the full picture

Thanks stallik ,you have been invaluable help, cheers man. :icon_wink:
Colman

Quote from: stallik on March 21, 2024, 02:26:55 PMThe little holes are pathways that join the front tracks to the rear on double sided boards. I'm sure they have a proper name...


Edit: apparently, they're called 'through holes' . Pretty obvious name I suppose

"via's", pardon the apostrophe.

Guys I had to use a few ceramic caps namely all the 103s ,hope that's not going to screw this up.
This hobby/obsession is for younger people  my eyes are not what they used to be  but I have to admit my pulse is rather steady on the soldering iron.Also it helped that the board has generous space between holes so you are less prone to make a mess.I hope this works for me.Thanks again for all the help.
Aharon.

I still have to solder the lytics,I had to take a break, pots jacks and additional wiring.
I think Im going to test it before I box it tho'h and also forgot to wire the LEDs and of course have to install chips and transistors,jfet and 78L05.
Wish me luck.
Aharon
(https://i.postimg.cc/xqVtXDQm/temp-Imagewj5-Eqi.avif) (https://postimg.cc/xqVtXDQm)

(https://i.postimg.cc/v16tmXSX/temp-Image-Bdzv88.avif) (https://postimg.cc/v16tmXSX)

The order in which the wires got connected to the fsw is left to right on the board and top to bottom on the sw on one side ,correct? Square pad goes to top of the sw ,middle pad to middle sw and last pad to the bottom sw?. Thanks and sorry for the stoopid question. :icon_redface: Do I have to get the signal out from the volume pot or the output pad on the pcb?
Aharon

(https://i.postimg.cc/xqzkYqbw/temp-Imagerc0or-C.avif) (https://postimg.cc/xqzkYqbw)


I just have to install LEDs and I'm as ready as I'm going to be to test,I haven't done so much wiring since the sans amp GT2.I hope it works ,Triple checked but my experience tells me there's always something.
Aharon