I really like the Hammond style aluminum enclosures, and also the wedge shaped boxes, so decided to make my own wedgie.
The 1590B is a great box, has plenty of room for a huge variety of pedal circuitry, so this is what I came up with.
1: Mark out the cut lines, I used 0.45" from the face on one end, and across the top 2.15" from the end, then drew the lines. You should also draw a line 0.1" down from the face.
2: For this prototype, I simply used a Dremel tool with a cutoff wheel. Cut the two lines along the side, (0.1" down, and the angle cut).
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2442_zpsquhvabsw.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2443_zpsm3fldxvi.jpg)
3: Next cut along the top line and remove the piece. You should sand the side and top cuts with course sand paper on a block, to obtain a good fit. It should look like this:
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2444_zpshkre8izy.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2446_zpssktmfyye.jpg)
4: Now mix up a small batch of JB Weld- this takes about a day to cure, is super strong, and is machinable.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2447_zpsaxjmier5.jpg)
5: Put a decent coating on one side of the cut, and join the pieces. Use regular masking tape to hold them in alignment. Then place a strip of masking tape across the seam on the inside to form a barrier. Oddly enough, it releases from the cured epoxy. Then fill the gaping hole on top and set aside to cure. You can speed this process up quite a bit by placing in an insulated box (old stove or refrigerator is great, styrofoam cooler is fine) along with a 60W incandescent lightbulb. Tip- works great for curing primer and paint too.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2448_zpsqt7cln0u.jpg)
6: Sand the surfaces with medium sandpaper on a block (150 grit):
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2451_zpsly3fvhzt.jpg)
7: Hopefully there won't be any voids, but if so just fill them with a little JB Weld and repeat step 6. Now go over the whole box with 220 grit (on a block), until you're happy with it:
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2456_zps7xvkzmy3.jpg)
8: Now up to the spray booth and dust it with primer and set aside to dry, sand with 320 grit
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2457_zpsw7mnjsz9.jpg)
Voila- wedgies for everyone!
THIS IS THE GREATEST THREAD EVER OH MY GOODNESS.
Sorry, I excite easily :icon_redface: Legitimately cool though. 8)
That's awesome!!
So...how does the JB Weld hold up if you bake on paint? I'd hate for everything to fall apart whilst baking...haha...
Russ this is an excellent tutorial ! Thank you for the write up and as always great work!
The JB weld will hold up to baking quite well. It can withstand 500 degrees f. Use the grey stuff not that newer formula
Nice work!
That's a nice tutorial!
I saw some pedals like these and always wondered if it would work and look nice, and you made it.
know I need to try it with another wah pedal!
Quote from: canman on April 03, 2015, 07:12:10 PM
So...how does the JB Weld hold up if you bake on paint? I'd hate for everything to fall apart whilst baking...haha...
I've used JB Weld to patch holes in enclosures before painting and baking, and if it cures fully before baking it holds up just fine (my usual bake cycle is 10-15 minutes at 300 fahrenheit).
Thanks guys, this was the first time I've started a thread.
@thomasha- your work is truly amazing, you're an inspiration. Now I want a mini-wah :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: vigilante397 on April 03, 2015, 07:39:47 PM
Quote from: canman on April 03, 2015, 07:12:10 PM
So...how does the JB Weld hold up if you bake on paint? I'd hate for everything to fall apart whilst baking...haha...
I've used JB Weld to patch holes in enclosures before painting and baking, and if it cures fully before baking it holds up just fine (my usual bake cycle is 10-15 minutes at 300 fahrenheit).
Wow 300 fahrenheit? If I go much over 160 I get smoke marks on my paint...maybe something is wrong with my oven..?
That's a big nope. I love it, but I'm a lazy sack.
Quote from: canman on April 03, 2015, 08:23:44 PM
Wow 300 fahrenheit? If I go much over 160 I get smoke marks on my paint...maybe something is wrong with my oven..?
Hmm, that's a little weird. The only time I've ever had smoke was when I didn't let the paint dry all the way before baking. So definitely let the paint dry, but after that it should be fine even higher than that.
I don't actually remember why I chose that temperature, pretty sure someone recommended it on one of the many spray paint tips threads on here. Best lessons I ever learned were:
1) proper surface prep
2) Rustoleum self-etching primer
3) Rustoleum paint (though I have had good results with Krylon as well when 1, 2 and 4 were used)
4) Toaster oven
Ingenious! People are always looking for that shape of enclosure and you've just made them available to anyone willing to put in the time, beautiful!
dave
Not to derail the thread, but just another little bit on painting...turns out I've done it wrong haha. I bake it while it's wet...150 for 30 mins, and after it cools its dry to the touch. So I may have to let it dry and try it that way. How long do you let it dry? The full 24 hours?
Back on topic...did you start the cuts from the end of the box or up there towards the face of the box, where the cut gets shallow? (If that makes sense)
Quote from: canman on April 04, 2015, 12:33:23 AM
Not to derail the thread, but just another little bit on painting...turns out I've done it wrong haha. I bake it while it's wet...150 for 30 mins, and after it cools its dry to the touch. So I may have to let it dry and try it that way. How long do you let it dry? The full 24 hours? And...is it rock hard after you bake it at 300 for 15 mins?
Back on topic...did you start the cuts from the end of the box or up there towards the face of the box, where the cut gets shallow? (If that makes sense)
I started at the end, but really it doesn't matter. If you have access to a bandsaw it would take 2 minutes tops. Try the lightbulb in a box solution for a curing oven- it really works. Cuts the time down to about 4 hours for the epoxy, Rustoleum, ....
Quote from: canman on April 04, 2015, 12:34:05 AM
Quote from: canman on April 04, 2015, 12:33:23 AM
Not to derail the thread, but just another little bit on painting...turns out I've done it wrong haha. I bake it while it's wet...150 for 30 mins, and after it cools its dry to the touch. So I may have to let it dry and try it that way. How long do you let it dry? The full 24 hours? And...is it rock hard after you bake it at 300 for 15 mins?
Back on topic...did you start the cuts from the end of the box or up there towards the face of the box, where the cut gets shallow? (If that makes sense)
I have been following beavisaudio's guide to toaster oven paint drying and, if I remember correctly, he says to throw it in the oven just after spraying. That is the way I have been doing it but I have noticed a few things. I do my baking outside and when it is cold, it seems it takes the oven longer to heat up than if it is warmer outside, obviously. So what I am thinking is that the temperature sensor, whatever it uses, is taking more time than necessary to detect that the oven chamber is at the selected temperature when it is actually much higher. That overly high temperature is causing the smoke, and if the chamber gets too hot like mine did before, then you get smoke or even fire!
I have since tried setting the temp lower and then waiting a cycle on the heating elements before raising the temp. I have also just done a preheat at the regular temp and then throwing the enclosure in. Both ways have worked and I believe that it is because the temp sensor has now been able to read the correct temp and the chamber is nolonger too hot.
Either way, letting the enclosure sit for a couple minutes for the paint vapors to evaporate is a good practice too. I don't think you should have to wait for it to dry before tossing in the enclosure. Kind of defeats the purpose of the toaster other than to completely cure the paint. Of course you want a nice ventilated area as well.
Um, not to be a party-pooper, but one normally has only modest clearance for a 3PDT contacts in a 1590B. With the wedge, do you have enough room? Is it simply a matter of eliminating the inside nut?
But it does look gorgeous, I have to say. Well done.
+1 looks great russ..nice work. 8)
but like mark said , 3pdt room enough?..
One could use these:
http://www.bitcheslovemyswitches.com/#!/Low-Profile-3PDT-Footswitch-Latched-Solder-Lugs/p/33283018/category=5027572 (http://www.bitcheslovemyswitches.com/#!/Low-Profile-3PDT-Footswitch-Latched-Solder-Lugs/p/33283018/category=5027572)
Regular 3PDT: 21mm (from top of switch body to bottom of pins.)
Low profile: 16.4mm
^ ooh...they look nice.. 8)
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 04, 2015, 11:58:45 AM
^ ooh...they look nice.. 8)
I've been designing builds more and more with these switches lately.
The solder pin and board mount.
Ordered some of those the other day, look to be very similar to the Alpha 2pdt i have and they are much smaller then the big blues. The Alpha's have a much nicer actuation then the big blues as well, i'm expecting as much from the BLMS's.
I quit using the big blue 3PDTs awhile ago when I started concentrating on small box builds, but this box will accommodate one- if you don't use the inside nut. I get the smaller components from BLMS- prices are competitive, and Lawrence is a great guy to deal with.
My solution to keep pots, jacks, and switches from turning is a small dab of JB Weld- some might disagree with this as it makes disassembly more difficult, but they don't move, and you don't need to crank the outside nut down so hard that it breaks the component. Just make sure your board works before you do final assembly.
Heres a couple of shots showing the relative sizes of the switches and jacks:
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/DSCN2092_zpse9iodjc5.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/DSCN2093_zpsnrp25uzr.jpg)
I like those mini 3pdts, the actuation is shorter and they just feel better. Great tutorial!
Quote from: canman on April 04, 2015, 12:33:23 AM
Not to derail the thread, but just another little bit on painting...turns out I've done it wrong haha. I bake it while it's wet...150 for 30 mins, and after it cools its dry to the touch. So I may have to let it dry and try it that way. How long do you let it dry? The full 24 hours?
I'm not nearly that patient :P My paint cycle:
apply paint, wait 10 minutes
throw in oven, wait 10 minutes
remove from oven, wait 10 minutes
repeat until satisfied :)
Sorry to continue to derail this excellent thread. Carry on everyone :icon_mrgreen:
I'm glad I asked. Those lower profile ones look sweet. Never knew they existed.
I think Mark Hammer brought up an excellent point regarding clearance issues. The hole is centered on the flat, where you would expect to drill it. Heres some photos to show the clearances:
1: Blue 3PDT with nut on inside. Clearly an interference.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2458_zpsp6szfs2c.jpg)
2: Blue 3PDT without the inside nut. Marginal, but the bottom plate allows additional clearance. The hole can be enlarged and the switch inserted further, thus no clearance issue.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2459_zpsin567ztl.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2460_zpsvz1wkaho.jpg)
3: Low-profile 3PDT (from BLMS), nut on the inside. No clearance issue.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2461_zpszok3zq0b.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2462_zpsckkehejl.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2463_zpsinagycte.jpg)
The low profile switch can be found on E-Bay too- L9P for the pin version, and L9K for the lug version. The DPDT versions are L6P and L6K.
Great idea! I love JB Weld
They do look nice but I can see after many stomps that the top might just fall off, what we need is an all in one casting made just like that, for the person that invests £20K they will make it back in no time.
You could pin the top at the two front corners into the tapped holes if you're worried about it breaking away.
Pancake switch would look great on the top of one of these.
Just a thought, but if you can dremel out the wedge shape , then leave the top uncut it may be possible to use some heat and then bent the top down to form the shape. this would leave a more secure top. Great idea for a different enclosure cozybuilder. :)
Quote from: Ice-9 on April 04, 2015, 05:56:51 PM
They do look nice but I can see after many stomps that the top might just fall off, what we need is an all in one casting made just like that, for the person that invests £20K they will make it back in no time.
Steve? I would personally prefer these over the bearboxes anytime. Just give it a bit more height so the blue ones fit ( with inside nut, i do not like the switch sticking out of the top so far). If these were available i would not buy anything else in this size range
Quote from: Ice-9 on April 04, 2015, 07:58:38 PM
Just a thought, but if you can dremel out the wedge shape , then leave the top uncut it may be possible to use some heat and then bent the top down to form the shape. this would leave a more secure top. Great idea for a different enclosure cozybuilder. :)
I haven't tried it but I think you'd end up with the top part ending short of the front edge - the angled distance is longer than the original length.
GEOMETRY, BITCHES!
The gap Will be the same (bitch?) 😁 but one end will still be attached. Lol
Some interesting comments. If you're worried about the strength or adhesion of JB Weld, check out its properties- this isn't 5-minute epoxy. I've used it for repairing all kinds of things, including setting a new bearing in a worn out bearing pocket in the middle pulley on my 50 + year old drill press 2 years ago.
You can certainly use the principles in this for modifying thicker boxes if you prefer to use the blue 3PDT switches with the nut on the inside- the 125B comes to mind, there are plenty of others.
I hope some of you find a use for this, I had fun with it.
Quote from: Cozybuilder on April 05, 2015, 10:23:53 AMIf you're worried about the strength or adhesion of JB Weld
You'd do better to worry about whatever holds the Brooklyn Bridge up. JB Weld doesn't kid around. Serious stuff.
QuoteI hope some of you find a use for this, I had fun with it.
I think I
certainly will, I love playing with that great grey goo, and the final shape is pretty much ideal. Thanks for the excellent pics!
J b weld seems cool stuff.. If only it could be found in europe
they look real nice, congratulations. Epoxy putty is also very useful to close any holes that you changed your mind on.
Quote from: ~arph on April 05, 2015, 12:26:18 PM
J b weld seems cool stuff.. If only it could be found in europe
Here's a European JB Weld wholesaler.
http://www.jbweld.eu/english/about-us/index.html
Maybe try to contact them to find out where to purchase in the EU.
Quote from: tubegeek on April 05, 2015, 09:58:17 AM
Quote from: Ice-9 on April 04, 2015, 07:58:38 PM
Just a thought, but if you can dremel out the wedge shape , then leave the top uncut it may be possible to use some heat and then bent the top down to form the shape. this would leave a more secure top. Great idea for a different enclosure cozybuilder. :)
I haven't tried it but I think you'd end up with the top part ending short of the front edge - the angled distance is longer than the original length.
GEOMETRY, BITCHES!
Yeah ! of course, good call.
i think the UK equivalent is 'chemical metal''
i used it years ago to attach a screwdriver to a trem on a lefty pieceofcrapocaster just to have a trem ;D
and it worked for years...good stuff. 8)
http://www.autosessive.com/products/60165/plastic-padding-chemical-metal-mini-tube-85g?gclid=CPrJ3P3w48QCFSWWtAod_HYAsQ
Quote from: deadastronaut on April 07, 2015, 05:31:39 AM
i think the UK equivalent is 'chemical metal''
I thought that was a musical genre based on the blood of virgins and crystal meth?
[cobbers] I was surprised to see JB Weld in jaycar today, but I don't shop there if I can help it, so there was plenny other surprises too. [/cobbers]
(I wonder how the browsers would render that tag .....)
Quote from: duck_arse on April 07, 2015, 11:21:48 AM
(I wonder how the browsers would render that tag .....)
My brain-voice read your post in a broad Strine accent, prefixed with "strewth, mate!", and compelled me to reach for a tinnie.
Thought I'd post a couple of teaser shots of an upcoming build with this enclosure. One of the things I like about it is being able to run all the connections out the back- you can cram a few more on a pedal board that way.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2468_zpsctl1dvbf.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2481_zps4o85qqpc.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Wedgies%20Anyone/DSCN2482_zpsupda82nc.jpg)
That's amazing!! Not something I'd ever be able to pull off, but holy smokes that's rad. I may need to start putting my jacks out the back, that seems to free up a fair bit of space (assuming you don't put your circuit boards on the backs of the pots, which I tend to do regularly).
Really developing into a killer concept, looking great! I'm going to give it a go, how wide was the front edge of the wedge you removed?
Thanks!
dave
Wow! You are a cozy builder. Very nice
Thanks Dave. I took out 0.35", so measure down 0.45" from the face- the top will give you back that 0.10". The line across the top is at 2.15" from the end. If you have a band saw, I'd suggest cutting the 0.1" first, then the angle. Also, if you are going to use jacks in the back, I'd suggest drilling them before the wedge cut- its a royal pain to clamp the angled edge in the drill press. I you go with my layout, the I/O jacks are 0.32" down from the opening, and 0.61" from the side. The 9V is exact center, and down 0.35". Good luck.
Thank you Arph.
I think this build will be done in about a week, will post pix then.
With the method you have shown here, does the removed section still have low resistance to the rest of the enclosure? If not, you may want to add a grounding wire to the floating section of the chassis.
Excellent question. I just measured, and mine reads about 125 ohms- YMMV. In light of this, I'm going to solder a wire to a washer and place that between the stompswitch and plate, and attach to ground.
Made the chop but not yet glued back together.
No bandsaw so used a hacksaw (easier for me to control then the Dremel) and took the top off as a wedge then used a bench mounted belt sander to flatten the wedge into a flat plate.
For layout ended up dropping layout lines down the sides at the crosscut point, then connecting side cut layout line to those 1/8" down from the top. That worked well for leaving the full thickness of the top plus the saw kerf.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7010_zpsmswvnlas.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7013_zpsj59ln05g.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7016_zpsr2qosk3s.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7017_zpsabijhlm7.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7021_zpslezkxak2.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7023_zpsuftjhf1r.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7030_zpsbtlrxnm5.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7025_zpsrxoqujen.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7028_zpsgfz01hz6.jpg)
dave
Looking good Dave! I have been thinking about this and discussed it with Russ. Cut the wedge out and leave the top intact. Light score the back of the top part where it would bevel over and bend into place and solder/braze the box back together. I know it will leave a gap at the end but it could be filled with the solder/braze and then sanded back to shape. That would leave it all electrically connected and leave the top etchable. It would also make the boxes able to be powder coated without much fuss. Seems like I may have to buy some of these rods and test it out.
http://www.amazon.com/Harbor-Freight-Tools-Alumiweld-Aluminum/dp/B006ZBASPU
Impressive work Dave, your cuts look a lot better than mine did ;D I look forward to seeing how it turns out.
Quote from: Cozybuilder on April 08, 2015, 10:14:59 PM
Impressive work Dave
Agreed :icon_eek:
Quote from: Cozybuilder on April 08, 2015, 10:14:59 PM
your cuts look a lot better than mine did ;D
I've gotten used to the fact that Dave's everything looks a lot better than mine :P
I am not a very good metalworker but I read a lot of hot rod magazines. So take this with a grain of salt.
From davent's pictures, it looks like it's a fairly small gap that needs to close.
The aluminum is thick enough that it might be possible to use a ball peen hammer (from the inside to keep the hammer marks from being quite so ugly) and stretch the area of the bend, so that the top "flap" stretches down until it matches the end. Maybe some heat would help with this. If it cracks, well, we were going to cut it otherwise, no loss there.
Thoughts?
Glued mine up last night and cleaned it up today.
Checking for continuity between the two pieces, after zeroing for the probes the meter settles out at 0.1, 0.2ohms between the two sections, pretty good!
I put a piece of aluminum duct tape across the back of the top cross joint before filling the gap to prevent the epoxy oozing down into the box and i've had continuity through the glue of that tape before so not sure whether the tape is the pathway or i have metal on metal contact somewhere along the seam, in any case, this one tests as a unit.
dave
^ I'm no metal worker either so no idea how feasable the hammering would be, depend on the composition of the box and how malleable that material is.
edit
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7048_zps0mwju8kk.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_7043_zpsbmtj25gc.jpg)
That is looking great Dave!
Mine is in color, the graphic is designed, and I just finished the wiring layout for the circuit. A couple of more days- its going to be bright!
very freaking cool :icon_cool:
I'm no metal worker either, but I do own a hammer, and I love watching (community access tv) programs where the bloke hammers a flat sheet until he has a new bonnet for an FJ, or something. if yr Al box has those real big crystals of aluminium showing, I think they'd be more crackable than bendable.
maybe it's just the crummy cases I've seen is the problem.
How appropriate that Mister DA posted just before this!
As promised, here is the completed build using the wedgie. Circuit by Sam Hay, just a couple of mods. Thanks to Michael (Whiskey Made Me Do It) for a lot of help in pulling off the graphic.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Disco/DSCN2511_zpsifmqtplw.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Disco/DSCN2507_zpsjkzova6t.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Disco/DSCN2508_zpsrzr3dktj.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Disco/DSCN2510_zpssmc4dnkz.jpg)
Super job Russ, came out great!
Thanks for the tutorial, makes for a very cool little box in a flavour different from the norm.
dave
Holy crap! That's a lot of jumpers. lol. Good job.
If you start off with a 125B enclosure you'll have five extra millimeters of height to begin with.
Pelle-
Agreed, 125B would make it a lot easier- you could fit open frame jacks in the back along with the 9V Jack, and use the large blue 3PDT switch. I hope to see other builds ;D
Bookmarked this thread. That's a really tidy job that I feel a lot of people can do easily. Kudos. ;D
cozy - I never thought I'd read a comment like that. outstanding looking thing there, even without a footy.
[change yr name to purple fuzz in a week's time, and I might have something to show after one of your posts.]
nice work-- looks cool!
Russ - looks good! What's next? A 1590a box wedgie?
nicely done... 8) 8) 8)
Heres another in the Wedgie enclosure. Its a modified Axis Face.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Axis%20Face/DSCN2565_zpsc11ij78x.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Axis%20Face/DSCN2567_zpsxcafcvql.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Axis%20Face/DSCN2566_zpsudl02fdf.jpg)
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Axis%20Face/DSCN2564_zpsjddfldnu.jpg)
I almost feel guilty that there is so much room in there!
Ah... room to breath, nicely done Russ!
Nice pink wedgie! I'm still waiting to see you turn a 1590A into a wedgie... :icon_mrgreen:
I can't say I would have going to the trouble of doing that! Some of you guys are so keen, it's amazing.
Thanks for the kind words guys.
I built 2 of these, with a couple of changes in the coupling caps, and the reverse polarity protection. You can use a 1N4148 or other diode (forward voltage drop about 0.7V) or a BS250 (P-channel MOSFET, forward voltage drop about 0.03V).
Here is the schematic and the perf layout. This layout could easily be done as a PCB.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Axis%20Face/DSCN2569_zps3w4c8rpp.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Axis%20Face/DSCN2568_zpsa0dkheic.jpg)
After seeing a 1968 Vox ToneBender V828, this looked like a reasonable next step in the development of a practical Wedgie from a 1590B. I wasn't trying to duplicate it, but rather capture the essence of the original.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/1968-Vox-Tone-Bender-1_zpsitzameeq.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2624_zpsyzqoo6oa.jpg)
This project started with the steps outlined in the first posting, making a wedgie, with a couple of additional steps, and a method to assure the bottom pieces are in the same plane and end up with a usable box.
1) Here is the basic layout. I adjusted the pot location from the pictured build to better center the knobs in the graphic:
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2630_zpsuiu0m5iq.jpg)
2) Before making any cuts, drill for the 9V and I/O jacks first. Its much easier to clamp the rectangular box than the wedgie. The other holes are easily done later. The basic wedge box is formed with the cutout of the wedge, then the top. Best to cut the bottom (angle) of the wedge shape first, then the parallel cut to the top, then cut across the top. Band saw preferred, hacksaw a little more work but very doable, last choice is a dremel cutter. Once the top has been cut off, file or sand the two pieces to a good fit.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2587_zps0ggxb8wu.jpg)
3) Mark your lines top and bottom. My build divided the width by 4 (0.58"), and cut that amount. I think thats excessive, and would recommend a smaller dimension, maybe 0.40" - 0.45", instead. On the bottom plate, measure the distance the screw hole center is from the edge, and mark that on the edge. Draw a parallel line to your cut line, and measure up to it.you will align the side piece by screwing into the boss.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2586_zpsrjvyuxt7.jpg)
4) Now cut the angle piece from the top, side, and bottom on ONE SIDE ONLY. Be sure the bottom and top are on the same side. Cut and fit the front and side piece to match up, and use a dremel to do the relief cuts on the bottom lip so that you can screw the side to it. Once everything fits well, JB Weld the top to the cut side, the top, and along the front, do not glue the portions that will be cut in the next step. Use all 4 screws in the bottom plate for aligning. After cure it should look like the second photo below.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2589_zpscqjtxo0z.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2590_zps6fzshqz7.jpg)
5) Now do the same steps on the other side. This one is a lot easier than the first. Fill in any shallow places, radius the inside edges etc.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2591_zps5viastst.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2596_zpsb3ya8efe.jpg)
6) You will need to form a new lip in the bottom plate, you can just use the wedge piece you cut out as the base material. Take a little time with the dremel and JB Weld and you can make it look better than I did.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2600_zpseqwsfebt.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2603_zpsthelj7rv.jpg)
Heres the completed project (so much unused space :'():
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2626_zpsjc4mdocy.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2625_zps3q7gfr3t.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2627_zpsh5lvhirf.jpg)
So, a fiddly project that will give you a little different flavor. Heres a family shot of the three wedgies done to date:
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/ToneBender%20Wedgie/DSCN2631_zps7rkurkbi.jpg)
now that I've seen how you did the toe-taper, nice work. you're mad, but nice work anyway.
and aren't all fuzzes pink?
I'll take that as a compliment Ducky, thank you! Pink just didn't suit this "tribute" pedal, but yes most of my distortion-type pedals are pink.
Quote from: duck_arse on June 24, 2015, 11:53:20 AM
nice work. you're mad, but nice work anyway.
+1 (Quite, quite mad...)
Mad in the best way possible
Quote from: Luke51411 on June 24, 2015, 05:02:16 PM
Mad in the best way possible
+1 to this too. Who wants to be "normal"? (Whatever that is...) :D
Normal- isn't that a synonym to bland? Gawd! Its like when they were handing out brains, and some thought they said pains, no thanks.
Thats wild man.
Good job Russ. :icon_biggrin:
Quote from: Cozybuilder on June 24, 2015, 11:02:34 AMTake a little time with the dremel and JB Weld and you can make it look better than I did.
Oh I very much doubt that.
Slick!
your 1 crazy dude russ...very cool. looks the nuts 8)
Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments. Theres another thats getting close.
Heres another Wedgie. This one started life as a $14.99 OverDirve kit (delivered). The circuit is based on the Boss OD-3. After quite a few component swaps, 3 Keeley mods, and hacking up their box, here is the result:
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/OverDirve/OverDirve%20Plain%20box%20kit/DSCN2699_zps4vegyeh6.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/OverDirve/OverDirve%20Plain%20box%20kit/DSCN2700_zpsdmr7884x.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/OverDirve/OverDirve%20Plain%20box%20kit/DSCN2701_zps43awm11n.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/OverDirve/OverDirve%20Plain%20box%20kit/DSCN2696_zpsib7bgmwa.jpg)
From this:
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/OverDirve/OverDirve%20Plain%20box%20kit/DSCN2646_zpskxau5rte.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/OverDirve/OverDirve%20Plain%20box%20kit/DSCN2647_zpsyw7ajaj6.jpg)
That is just so LOW BUDGET awesome...
Amazing Russ!
Looks great! Wedgies rule... ;D 8)
MC
You spelled dirve wrong ;D another slick build!
Nicely done Russ! Checkerboard must have been a pain to mask off. No, wait a sec, your patience knows no bounds... you're just getting warmed up!
Take care!
dave
Quote from: Luke51411 on July 06, 2015, 10:56:07 PM
You spelled dirve wrong ;D another slick build!
Ha ha! Both my thoughts exactly. :D
Wow!Looks insane!Appreciate all your effort!I think I'd like to see this on a 1590bb sometime! :D ;D
Thanks for the comments. Yes, checkerboard is a PITA, in this case I sprayed the white field first (½" tall), clearcoated, then taped over it, used an X-acto to cut ¼" lines starting at the center, and removed tape where the black squares would be. Overall I'm pleased, but there are spots where it could be better.
I would like to see a 1590BB wedgie too! Maybe an Abductor II ?
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/OverDirve/OverDirve%20Plain%20box%20kit/DSCN2700_zpsdmr7884x.jpg)
nice knobs/nasty allen screws. this looks like a good quality colorsound box. and only 3 re-sands, you say?
mad, I tells ya.
3 break-throughs requiring touch-up of the graphic- wish I had the talent so many here do.
Quote from: Cozybuilder on July 07, 2015, 09:53:07 AM
3 break-throughs requiring touch-up of the graphic- wish I had the talent so many here do.
Well you certainly have plenty of talent and any perceived lack thereof you make up for in patience which is talent in itself. So jealous of most of your builds, maybe one of these days I'll graduate from the standard hammond/waterslide decal finish... doubt it will look half as good as most of the builds here though.
Quote from: Cozybuilder on July 07, 2015, 07:53:41 AM
Yes, checkerboard is a PITA, in this case I sprayed the white field first (½" tall), clearcoated, then taped over it, used an X-acto to cut ¼" lines starting at the center, and removed tape where the black squares would be.
I'm disappointed. I thought they would be real tiles. ;D
Tooth veneers- urban and deep south.
Russ to prevent paint bleeding under the mask, clearcoat or paint again with the hidden colour (white) after masking, that should seal the edges of the mask and stop the bleeding under of the contrasting, next colour. Also burnish the mask, i put a piece of clean paper over the mask then rub down with the back of a wooden spoon.
dave
Heres another Wedgie, the Germanium Over Drive (G.O.D.), and dressed in something other than pink!
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Germanium%20Over%20Drive/DSCN2790_zpstq3eyihr.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Germanium%20Over%20Drive/DSCN2792_zpsrxp4adoa.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Germanium%20Over%20Drive/DSCN2793_zpszmo6pxbm.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Germanium%20Over%20Drive/DSCN2795_zpsg893echd.jpg) (http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/Germanium%20Over%20Drive/DSCN2791_zpsu0r6olhc.jpg)
cozy - what size, from under panel to lug bottom, are those footswitches you favour?
and the answer was f), leading to a).
For the DPDT, the best E-Bay search parameter is L6P for the PC pins, or L6K for the ones with the eye in the pin (my favorite). Its a 12mm latching miniature footswitch. For the 3PDT miniature, use L9P, or L9K. I bought a box of 100 for about $1 apiece- am good for awhile. 1.42" tall x 53" w x .48" d. The 9 pin measures 1.42" x .53" x .68". Tall means top of switch to bottom of pin. I did a couple of wedgie boxes using the blue 3PDT, but really prefer the miniatures- they click easier, and the lower profile is great for tighter switch placement, and in the wedgie you can use a nut on the inside allowing you to torque it down.
I lost my way... but i'm back on the wagon.
Thanks Russ!
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/FullSizeRender7_zps2tc1zhov.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/FullSizeRender2_zpsgb08txwv.jpg)
dave
Quote from: davent on May 18, 2016, 10:16:47 PM
I lost my way... but i'm back on the wagon.
Thanks Russ!
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/FullSizeRender7_zps2tc1zhov.jpg)
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/FullSizeRender2_zpsgb08txwv.jpg)
dave
Hiya Dave-
It looks great, love the colors and knobs too. Can you tell us a little about it, and maybe a gut shot?
Hi Russ, Thanks! A harmonic percolator, swimming in room in there. Gotta run but will put the details up in the picture thread later today.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/FullSizeRender3_zpsqmylzbur.jpg)
dave
hey russ, check out that paint scheme ......
[I told you he was the man to ask.]
Details now posted in the picture thread.
http://www.diystompboxes.com/smfforum/index.php?topic=36392.msg1058847#msg1058847
dave
Great!!!!
I'll try this one