Does anyone have a list of drill bits that are needed for the following pots, switches and DC jack??
1/4 jack:
DC jack(threads on outside of pedal)
Spdt:
Dpdt:
3pdt:
Potentiometers:
I don't have a list, but I can tell you that a 1/8" to 1/2" step drill (in 13 steps) covers everything I drill on enclosures. Yeah, I use a small bit for pilot holes. So, two bits and I'm good!
i use parts with both metric and imperial measurements, but here's the lo-down from what i use:
for both 6mm and 6.35 (1/4") pots, i recommend 7mm holes. that way, especially if using board-mounted pots, it'll be easier to get them all lined-up. the washer will cover the holes seamlessly, and they won't be too loose. SOME board-mounted pots i use have threads with a diameter of 7mm though, in which case i use 8mm.
for footswitches, using 12mm should result in a perfect fit for Carling and Alphas. that said, if you want some leeway as above, 1/2" (12.7mm) can be better.
12mm-1/2" for the usual barrel DC jacks too, though i HAVE come across smaller ones (which i think are about 11mm?), so you might wanna check which type you have.
as for the input/output jacks, i use the black plastic ones (the ones you usually see mounted to boards), which require an 11mm hole for a perfect fit. unfortunately i couldn't tell you what the regular jack hole size is off the top of my head, but i think it's about 10mm. you'll really need to check that though.
i don't know with toggle switches either, unfortunately, as none of my pedal types currently use them.
for all the above, you might wanna double-check with other posters and drill the smallest suggested size for each hole, then test to see if each part fits. you can always find this stuff on the datasheets - look for a symbol that's a circle with a line through it if you're having trouble spotting the diameter.
I have a metric step drill set of 3. In sizes 4-12mm, 4-20mm, 4-32mm but usually just use the 4-12 mm for pedals. The others are good for drilling out for valve socket though.
Try these sizes.
12mm for 3dt stomp switch and DC jack.
10mm for signal in and out jack.
8mm for pots, gives a tiny bit of clearance if using board mount pots.
8mm for 5mm metal led bezels.
6mm for toggle switches then bore out slightly with a rat tail file because I don't have a 7mm drill bit.
Sorry I don't know imperial drill bit sizes.
If you get a drill gauge, you can measure the shaft of whatever component you have and assure that you'll choose the correct size drill.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/DSCN2857_zpsqlcn8aol.jpg)
a reamer...is essential too, for odd bits/tight fittings...
drill gauge sounds a bit dirty, doesn't it? ;) but yeah.. some of the websites even post the diameter needed to drill along with their products as well.
Quote from: Cozybuilder on September 13, 2015, 10:03:06 PM
If you get a drill gauge, you can measure the shaft of whatever component you have and assure that you'll choose the correct size drill.
(http://i1362.photobucket.com/albums/r688/russrutledge/DSCN2857_zpsqlcn8aol.jpg)
Beat me to it! Invaluable for DIY and all your other shop needs!!
I have a set of these as well as the more usual drill sets:
(http://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/82/825/8256/8256505.jpg?_v=5a94e708-b43a-47fc-b9d2-56110847a5a6)
There is a better answer. This currently costs $14 at harbor freight, and solves the general question of "how big is it?" up to 4" in both inches and mm.
Once you ever use one of these, you'll never go back.
(http://www.harborfreight.com/media/catalog/product/cache/1/image/9df78eab33525d08d6e5fb8d27136e95/i/m/image_11339.jpg)
the three step method for one-off chassis bashers (and to summarise the previous excellent responses):
(http://www.technologystudent.com/images3/vernier5.gif)
(http://www.toolandindustrial.co.nz/images/92258.jpg)
(http://i16.ebayimg.com/02/i/001/00/b8/d3a2_35.JPG)
Can't generalize, no one size fit's all for a particular part, i measure, with a dial caliper like RG pictured, each part i'm installing and drill accordingly.
dave
Yep digi calipers are a must too.. 8)
this has turned into the tools thread...
Quote from: amptramp on September 14, 2015, 08:56:29 AM
I have a set of these as well as the more usual drill sets:
(http://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/82/825/8256/8256505.jpg?_v=5a94e708-b43a-47fc-b9d2-56110847a5a6)
Yeah that's what I have. Only in metric sizes. Best pedal building investment next to a soldering iron. Can't recommend them enough.
A good set of step bits + caliper and all is well. I don't use the caliper for holes usually; with the step bit, I just drill until the part fits. ;) A step bit is pretty much indispensable IMHO. Oh, yea and as mentioned previously, a reamer for the times you really want a perfect fit and the closest bit is a tiny bit too small.
Quote from: duck_arse on September 14, 2015, 11:13:14 AM
the three step method for one-off chassis bashers (and to summarise the previous excellent responses):
I always wondered what those protrusions on the opposite side of the TRex head were. Seems so obvious now.
Quote from: amptramp on September 14, 2015, 08:56:29 AM
I have a set of these as well as the more usual drill sets:
(http://images11.palcdn.com/hlr-system/WebPhotos/82/825/8256/8256505.jpg?_v=5a94e708-b43a-47fc-b9d2-56110847a5a6)
^these along with a drill press = the best purchase I've ever done in my life.
I have this saved in Evernote And I always use it:
Led bezel 5/16
Led only 3/16
3mm bezel 1/4"
Potentiometer 5/16
1/4" jack hole 3/8"
Dc jack hole 1/2"
Smaller 5/16"
Foot switch hole 1/2"
Toggle switch 1/4"
Quote from: jimilee on September 14, 2015, 01:09:54 PM
I have this saved in Evernote And I always use it:
Led bezel 5/16
Led only 3/16
3mm bezel 1/4"
Potentiometer 5/16
1/4" jack hole 3/8"
Dc jack hole 1/2"
Smaller 5/16"
Foot switch hole 1/2"
Toggle switch 1/4"
That's a nice list but...which model toggle switch, (micro mini, mini, or full size?) which 1/4" jack?, (standard open jack or board mounted jack) 16mm pot or 24mm? DC jack hole size can vary as well.
Enclosures by different manufacturers vary in size as well.
Best thing to do is measure with an digital caliper as stated above.
Trust nothing but your own eyes....and then double check that as well! :icon_wink:
Yep, that's the best thing, but I always use this list, hasn't mattered in 2 1/2 years building for myself and a few for money. It's all good.
I just wanted to make it clear to the OP that it depends on the "hardware" you are using.
Not all switches, jacks, and the like are created equal.
> a better answer
A cheaper answer: in the car-parts store, look in the dollar bin. (It's all $3 and $5 now.) I picked up a real cheezy "vernier" caliper. Looks like the one in Duck's post except the vernier is un-readable (badly stamped), just straight scale. But this IS good enough to tell 25/32 from 13/16, on bolts, hydraulic fittings, and drills. Where you either know it must be a Standard size (bolts), or you don't care if it runs 1/32" large (metric pots versus Imperial drills).
I think it may have metric markings too. But my 1967 USA Ford tractor has no metrics so I don't care.
The drill-gauge is also handy, and Home Depot often has plastic ones for a buck (get a couple). These may also have screw-length notches, inch/mm marks, and angles.
Good point on the variety of switches. If you happen to be a customer -Jimilee's measurements suit the basic stuff from smallbear - the red toggles, his pots. The blue stompswitch can actually go in a 15/16ths hole
Must get drill guide.
Jacks are the same way in variety of sizes, i use Neutrik/Switchcraft open frame, same size, Lundberg open frame, different size, couple styles of Cliff type plastic, different from the others.
Pots, PEC's, Alphas in various sizes, CTE's etc.
imo the ultimate tool is the datasheet, BUT it's important to make sure the delivered item meets spec using a calliper. not literally every unit, you can probably tell by eye if something's off by a problematic margin once you've verified the batch. sometimes it's hard to come across the datasheet, though, and not everyone's bothered to figure out the constituents of pot codes etc., which can be confusing as hell to begin with
Quote from: MrStab on September 14, 2015, 10:58:08 PM
imo the ultimate tool is the datasheet
Some suppliers don't post data sheets...hmm....hmm...Steve...
It makes it very difficult to work out a board layout until you have the actual parts in front of you and take measurements with a caliper.
:icon_idea: Caliper seems to be the keyword of this thread.
ime the internet often follows that "original thought theory" thing, even when least expected, if you have a big enough spade... but i like Steve's prices & service so i still pick Smallbear for stuff!
I use the step drill bits as well, best thing I've invested in apart from my soldering station. A 3mm drill bit for a pilot hole, then run the step drill bit to the required size. I will say that a drill press is absolutely invaluable though. I've got this one, it's cheap but we'll built and never caused me any issues (apart from the guard broke so I took it off) www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&page=shop.product_details&product_id=9040&l=uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&gclid=COmFtvLa-McCFUsCwwodJjgCBg (http://www.toolstop.co.uk/index.php?option=shop&page=shop.product_details&product_id=9040&l=uk&utm_source=google&utm_medium=base&gclid=COmFtvLa-McCFUsCwwodJjgCBg)
I always use the same parts in all my pedals, so then I know the holes will always be the right size when I drill a batch of boxes.
The sizes I use are:
DC jack - 8mm
Pots - 7mm
Switches - 6mm or 6.5mm depending on switch
Audio jacks - 10mm
Foot switch - 12mm
For drilling the pilot holes, I use templates cut out of 3mm acrylic. They have 6 holes for pots so I can use one template for multiple pedals using different pot configurations. The lines on the enclosure was where I was lining up the holes on the template right before glueing it together.
(http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/09/15/a07de515f5d269c2dfb5d237ec3a3d85.jpg)
I recommend doing that thing with the step drill bit where you wrap a piece of tape over the next largest cutter just above the one you want.