Does anyone else put hotmelt glue between the backs/ sides of the pots and the enclosure as an extra mechanical hold to stop them spinning round should the nut come undone.
Never thought of that. When I'm concerned about them spinning I drill an extra hole for the tab that I cut off 99% of the time and let the tab do what it was designed to.
Quote from: Kipper4 on February 15, 2017, 01:38:57 PM
Does anyone else put hotmelt glue between the backs/ sides of the pots and the enclosure as an extra mechanical hold to stop them spinning round should the nut come undone.
(http://memeguy.com/photos/images/mrw-this-girl-tries-to-argue-with-me-that-the-pieces-of-flair-joke-is-from-hall-pass-not-offic-space-148146.gif)
+1 for what Vigilante said, I drill the tab hole if i use that type of pot, but i usually use the pcb mount 9mm pots so no need to worry about spin or fill the pedal with hot glue gloop.
Just me then.
I guess I should use the tabs and get my lazy A.... to drill the extra holes, especially since most of the time they're hidden by my labels anyway.
Doh
Yes you should.
It's not as tricky as you might think - drill the hole for the shaft, insert the pot and use the pot tab to scour an arc where you need to drill your extra hole.
I wouldn't expect it to have that kind of hold.
I do use it to hold socketed components if I feel like leaving the socket in place. Caps, transistors, ICs,
If its a Ge transistor I just go for the legs and avoid the body.
Stuff won't rattle loose, but you can pick the stuff away if you need to.
Hot melt glue of some sort was used in a number of FM tuners to hold electrolytics and large film capacitors in place. If you were building a spacecraft, Epiphen 825A was used if you needed a rigid epoxy but Solithane 113 was used as the equivalent of a flexible hot glue but my spacecraft days are definitely in the rear-view mirror and they may use something different now.
I love those little tabs, I used to cut them but now I know how to drill a little hole and use them! ;D
I do worry sometimes about the phono jacks and stomp switches... why don't they have tabs?
Also, mini toggles have those washers with the tab but the washer always spins around on the toggle, so what's the point of that?
I use hot glue to hold leds in plastic led bezels. As for keeping pots from spinning, I find if they are tightened enough, they really aren't going any where.
Quote from: Ben Lyman on February 15, 2017, 07:30:10 PM
Also, mini toggles have those washers with the tab but the washer always spins around on the toggle, so what's the point of that?
Should be keyed. I've never seen those where they weren't.
back when i was starting out and thought it was a good idea to glue-gun everything instead of bolting it, i noticed it had the potential to seep into the wafer (assuming it's a 16mm) and ruin the pot. also needs re-done if repairs or modifications are to be made. i'd avoid, personally, but then i am quite clumsy.
Quote from: bloxstompboxes on February 15, 2017, 07:34:04 PM
I use hot glue to hold leds in plastic led bezels. As for keeping pots from spinning, I find if they are tightened enough, they really aren't going any where.
Same here. Must be a Jelly State thing. ;)
Quote from: samhay on February 15, 2017, 04:39:47 PM
Yes you should.
It's not as tricky as you might think - drill the hole for the shaft, insert the pot and use the pot tab to scour an arc where you need to drill your extra hole.
And you don't have to drill the tab hole all the way through. Need a touch of straight sides on the hole, just past the bit's bevel and then shorten the tab with a file so the pots sits flat, very soft metal, nothing to it filing it down.
(http://i216.photobucket.com/albums/cc305/davent/IMG_1216.jpg)
dave
If you are using skirted or large knobs, you can find pots small enough to have the anti-rotation hole under the knob and not visible once assembled. Chickenheads are a different story.
they're not too easy to find in M7 size (to accomodate 6-6.35mm pots), but tooth washers are another good way to prevent spinning, if the threaded part of the pot shaft is long enough. iirc M8 just about works without any risk of shorts on 16mm Alphas, but will be loose and a bit annoying. the Rat uses tooth washers for everything.
It's OK with tabs and drilled holles/seats but what about an unexpectable inconvenience on pot's orientation..??
(some higher than counted electros, some last minute extra wiring, some jacks in an off-set hole, e.t.c.)
I personally presume that it's wise to have pots free to be mounted at almost 360o angle so I vote for Rich hot glue..!! :icon_wink:
P.S.
Because I'm a well establised overkiller (more than a typical Virgo sign..) I also use a drip of anaerobic glue between pot's thread & nut.. - Locktite 243 is more than perfect threadlocker for this job althought there are other more propriate sealants..
(it just happened to have this specific glue for use on my KTM bike..)
Top tips guys thanks
kipper, don't forget my favourites - sub-panels.
Quote from: Ben Lyman on February 15, 2017, 07:30:10 PM
I love those little tabs, I used to cut them but now I know how to drill a little hole and use them! ;D
I do worry sometimes about the phono jacks and stomp switches... why don't they have tabs?
Also, mini toggles have those washers with the tab but the washer always spins around on the toggle, so what's the point of that?
spinning washers on switches? bought from tayda? I take to the little tab on the washer with a punch, deform it enough to grab the keyway. or bend the tab a bit. or use one of the old C&K washers I have laying around.
SOME jacks, like the boxed ones w/ DPDT switch, do have an anti-rotate pip. footswitches are nearly always either keywayed (keyed?) or have a flatted thread.